How to clean a gun after hunting. Rules for cleaning weapons. What can ruin a hunting rifle?

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How quickly and how often should you clean your weapon?

Firearms operate under very difficult conditions. Just imagine, at the moment of firing, powder gases heated to 2500-2900 degrees create a pressure of up to 3 tons per square centimeter in the breech of the barrel!

Such operating conditions require special treatment, first of all, proper and high-quality cleaning. The remaining resource of the weapon and the quality of its combat will depend on it.

The question immediately arises - how often should you clean your weapon? We believe that excessively frequent cleaning and lubrication of weapons is no longer necessary, due to the increased quality of modern weapon cleaning and lubricants compared to those that were available before (such as kerosene, alkaline compounds, neutral oils). Therefore, with modern specialized products, it is enough to follow three basic rules for the timing and frequency of cleaning.

If the weapon has been fired, it must be cleaned on the same day.
If the weapon was taken out of the safe, but did not fire, then cleaning and lubricating it is also carried out on the same day, but it is quite acceptable in a lighter (“light”) version.
For long-term storage, the weapon is first cleaned on the day of shooting, cleaned and lubricated again about a week later, and cleaned and lubricated a third time after a week. After this, it is placed in a safe for long-term storage. However, do not forget that even when stored in a safe, preventative cleaning and lubrication is required at least once every one to two months. Moreover, this period can either increase or decrease, depending on the dustiness or pollution of the air, as well as its humidity.

What types of cleaning tools are there and what are they used for?

Now that we have decided on the frequency of cleaning, let's decide on the things that we will need for the cleaning itself: a cleaning rod, a visher, patches, brushes, machines and mats for cleaning weapons, specialized lubricants and gun oils.

About the cleaning rod: it sounds trite, but cleaning rods come in different materials and designs. For smooth-bore weapons, composite ramrods are usually used, for rifled weapons - solid ones. You can also often see cleaning rods that are flexible, like a chain. They can be used for cleaning both rifled and smooth-bore weapons. Actually, there is only one rule for selecting a cleaning rod - when it touches the walls of the barrel bore, it should not cause them any damage

Important note! The cleaning rod for rifled weapons must rotate freely relative to the handle so that the cleaning devices move strictly along the rifling.

About the visher, and immediately about the patches. A visher is a ramrod attachment on which replaceable cleaning elements are attached and driven through the bore. Vishers can be found in two designs - the traditional one, which is a ramrod attachment with an oblong hole, and the more modern one, which in the vast majority of cases is used on rifled weapons. It is a ramrod attachment with a needle at the end, onto which it is convenient to pin a patch. A patch is a clean disposable cloth, usually cotton, the size and thickness of which is selected to match the caliber of the weapon. For ease of use, patches are made in round or square shapes, but there are also voluminous cylindrical patches.

Cleaners. They are a bristly attachment for a cleaning rod. There are nylon, copper, brass, steel, bronze, polymer “down”. The type of brush is selected based on what kind of weapon you have - rifled or smooth-bore. It is important to remember here that nylon, brass and bronze brushes are most suitable for smooth bores.

It is strictly not recommended to use soft plastic brushes (they are usually the cheapest), since they can leave solid particles, which are then extremely difficult or impossible to remove from the surfaces of the bore.

And most importantly, brushes are used only “dry” so that their cleaning bristles do not become clogged with dirt, from where it can then get into the bore.

A stick for cleaning weapons in hard-to-reach places. Any weapon has many places, due to manufacturing technology, that are extremely difficult to clean with standard cleaning tools. And here sticks of different shapes come to the rescue. Wooden ones are most often used, since they are easily accessible and cannot damage the steel parts of the weapon.

Guides for cleaning rod when cleaning the bore. Special devices that are installed on the chamber and muzzle of the barrel during cleaning. Serve to center the cleaning rod during cleaning so that it does not touch the bore during forward movement. They are not used by everyone and not always due to the design features of the weapon and personal preferences.

Separately, a few words must be said about special machines and mats for cleaning weapons. The machines consist of a base with fastenings in which the weapon is firmly secured. They allow you to avoid touching the surfaces of the weapon with your hands, which has a beneficial effect on the quality of cleaning and lubrication. The base of such a machine can be a whole set of drawers for parts, recesses for cans of weapons-grade chemicals and various auxiliary devices that greatly facilitate the cleaning process.

Rugs are also not as simple as they might seem at first glance. In general, the mat serves to protect the table surface from sharp weapon parts and spilled liquids. As a rule, modern mats for cleaning weapons have two layers: the top layer absorbs spilled liquid well, and the bottom layer, on the contrary, does not allow it to pass further. These rugs are easy to clean and can even be machine washed.

And about the chemistry used

Next, we’ll talk about such a controversial topic as “weapons chemicals” used to clean weapons. You can write a lot about it, but the essence of all the means used remains the same: first, the copper and lead plating of the barrel bore is removed, then the weapon parts are initially soaked and cleaned with oil, after which the final lubrication is performed.

There are many different companies in the world specializing in the production of chemicals for the care of weapons, but I would like to note, first of all, domestic manufacturers. For example, the Neo Elements brand line of products has recently appeared on our market, but has already shown itself well. The line itself is quite diverse, and at the moment (summer 2017) includes nine products, of which three attract attention: this is the highly penetrating oil Universal Oil Pro, foam for removing copper plating, powder carbon and lead, Cuprum Remover Foam, and, as can be seen from names, universal oil Universal Oil.

Cleaning with these products is a truly simple procedure that can be done by any level of shooter.

After the shooting is finished (when the barrel has already cooled down!), the weapon is disassembled. We immediately fill the barrel bore with foam to remove copper plating, powder deposits, and lead plating Cuprum Remover Foam, and let it sit for a while to act on the barrel dirt. In itself, the state of the cleaning agent in the form of foam allows you to easily cover hard-to-reach places with it (the same barrel bore, or the gas outlet mechanism) without using a cleaning rod or a special stick, which greatly saves your time. You especially begin to appreciate this foam when you are tired after a workout and want to get home as quickly as possible. Specifically, Cuprum Remover Foam can be kept in the trunk for up to several hours.

While the gun barrel is going through the foam cleaning stage, we use Universal Oil to clean the remaining parts of your gun. The cleaning process with this oil is really easy - it, penetrating under layers of dirt, literally lifts and swells layers of soot and copper, which we immediately remove with brushes and patches.

After cleaning the main components with Universal Oil, it is time to remove the foam from the barrel bore and finish lubrication of the main parts. We remove foam in the usual way using a cleaning rod and patches. Immediately after this, so that the remaining microscopic particles of foam do not harm the bore, be sure to clean it with the highly penetrating oil Universal Oil Pro. Universal Oil Pro, as a cleaning agent, can be used not only to remove foam residues, but also to effectively clean microscopic particles of cladding copper, lead deposits, and dirt of any kind that inevitably form during the operation of a weapon. This oil is packaged in the form of a spray, which allows you to quickly treat large surfaces of the weapon, including hard-to-reach places, for example, the same barrel.

We could stop here, but I would like to recommend one more product for final, finishing lubrication. We really liked the neutral Gun Oil. It is light, covering, without a strong odor. It performs the function of protecting parts from external conditions “excellently”. Overall, worthy of recommendation.

In conclusion of our story, I would like to remind you that the “health” of your weapon, in addition to the quality of your work, directly depends on the tools and means that you use when cleaning, so pay special attention to their choice.

In the following articles we will tell you about the basic rules, techniques, and methods of cleaning your weapon, so we recommend subscribing to our news.

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There are many hunting enthusiasts in our country, and therefore there are many owners of hunting weapons. However, not all hunters know how to properly clean their gun, how to care for it, and what tools and devices should be used when cleaning and other procedures. Many videos have been made on this topic, in which experienced hunters tell how to clean a gun.

But some shooters cleaned their weapons a couple of times a season and continue to do so, motivating their course of action by the fact that frequent cleaning thins the chrome layer, leads to scratches and generally harms the hunting rifle.

Yes, there are enough people who sincerely believe in this, but the overwhelming majority of hunters still understand that just such a rare cleaning of weapons can create a lot of problems, and they prefer to carry out cleaning procedures after each hunt. To do this, they use a special weapon cleaning kit, which includes such products as a cleaning rod, oil, patches, lubricant, etc.

Nothing is eternal in our world, and hunting rifles are no exception. No matter how much you take care of them, they will still slowly wear out. The barrel of the weapon is the first to suffer.

This happens due to the high temperature and pressure created during the shot, due to the particles that are formed during the combustion of the powder charge, and also due to interaction with gases. All this leads to the formation of a “rash” - small pockets of rust are formed, which after some time can “grow” into shells.

In order to delay the wear of the weapon as much as possible and prolong its life, it is necessary after each hunt, preferably immediately, to begin cleaning the gun.

Sometimes hunters are faced with a lack of time and the need to pay attention to other important matters, and therefore postpone cleansing activities for another day. But you shouldn’t do this - if you don’t have time for a full cleaning, you need to clean the gun barrels from carbon deposits at least within 24 hours (and it’s better to do it right after you get home), since the process of corrosion formation in them begins within 2-3 hours after the shooting.

What tools and equipment are needed to clean a gun?

Cleaning a gun is a responsible procedure that requires a number of tools and items. At a stretch, this also includes a stand for cleaning weapons. Why “a stretch,” you ask. Everything is very simple - weapons can easily be cleaned without it, but its presence will make this process easier for you. The same can be said about the gun cleaning table. These auxiliary devices cost a certain amount of money, and each gun owner decides for himself whether it makes sense to spend money, or whether it is quite possible to do without them.

So, to carry out cleaning procedures you will need:

Cleaning kit - its configuration may vary, it all depends on the manufacturer. More experienced hunters often compose such kits themselves, abandoning ready-made kits and purchasing all the necessary, in their opinion, means themselves (on the World Wide Web you can find a lot of videos in which experienced hunters tell which kits are best suited for certain models of guns ). A standard kit for cleaning and caring for weapons consists of the following components:

Cleaning rod - can be solid or multi-sectional. Hunting stores usually sell cleaning rods made of aluminum, but you can also find cleaning rods made of other metals, and even wooden cleaning rods.
Vischer.
Brushes are made from different materials, but the most common are brass.
There are several types of brushes - bristle, spiral and down. Brushes made of bronze and brass can boast the greatest reliability and best performance characteristics. These are the ones that experts advise choosing.

Oil, lubricant or spray - necessary for the initial treatment of a weapon barrel;
Patches or strips made from soft fibers;
A table or other surface on which all disassembly and cleaning activities will actually be carried out. A stand for cleaning weapons or a machine is welcome. It is important that the workplace is properly lit.

When should you clean your weapon?

Cleaning must be carried out in the following cases:

When the gun is stored for a long time without use. In this situation, it is recommended to devote time to cleansing manipulations once a month.
After the hunt (even if you didn't fire the weapon).
After zeroing (in this case, the barrels should be wiped after each shot).
Upon completion of any shooting, even if you only fired a couple of rounds.

How to clean - step by step instructions

In order not to harm the weapon by violating the integrity of the internal coating of the barrel, all movements of the cleaning rod along its bore should be made from the breech towards the muzzle. If you ignore this important rule, then you can’t even dream about the long service life of the gun.

So, preparing the gun for cleaning and the cleaning itself must be performed in the following sequence:

We put the weapon on the table and unload it. We remove the magazine and cartridge from the chamber. After this, we proceed to its incomplete disassembly (how this procedure is performed, again, can be learned from the numerous useful videos that abound on the Internet). Bring a gun cleaning kit to your work area.
We apply alkaline grease or spray to the inside of the bore, and do this from the breech. We fix the weapon in a vertical position for half an hour. It is necessary to lubricate in a similar way not only the barrel, but also other parts that are affected by powder gases. This is, in particular, a shutter, a gas engine, etc.
Wrap the patch around the visher and wait until the alkaline lubricant, having passed through the entire barrel, flows down at the muzzle. Use the prepared patch to wipe off any remaining residue and initial carbon deposits.
Take a brush that matches the diameter of the bore. Move the brush over it in one continuous continuous movement (without stopping or sudden jerks). Inexperienced gun owners sometimes clean the barrel with reciprocal movements, that is, by moving the brush back and forth. Under no circumstances should this be done, since such tactics can lead to negative consequences. More specifically, this is fraught with damage to the barrel.
We wrap a new patch on the visher and dip it into a solution or special liquid. We use a damp patch inside the barrel, wiping it dry.
We repeat these steps again - clean with a brush, then wipe with a patch. This must be done exactly until the moment when, after wiping with the patch, soot particles are visible on it.
Having finished cleaning the bore, you need to give the chamber its former cleanliness and original appearance in the same way. We now pay attention to caring for it. We alternate working with a brush and a visher with a wound patch. We carry out these simple manipulations exactly until traces of carbon deposits stop appearing on the patch.
Next, take a new patch and dip it in the oil solution. We wipe the barrel bore with this patch, after which we carry out its final processing with a clean patch.
So, we cleaned the bores, but cleaning a weapon also means caring for other parts of the small arms. They need to be cleaned a little differently - using only wet patches and dry ones. First wipe wet, then wipe dry, and so on several times, until that wonderful moment until the part is completely clean.
We assemble the weapon into its working condition.
After cleaning, we recommend covering parts made of metal with a neutral lubricant or anti-corrosion agent.

If you have cleaned the gun in accordance with our instructions, then at least in the near future there will be no danger to it and it will function as expected. Do not forget to carry out this procedure regularly, and then the gun will reward you for your efforts and careful attitude with a long service life, during which you will not be able to make absolutely any claims to its functional condition, since everything will work at five plus.

How often should you clean your gun?

Cleaning and subsequent lubrication of the gun is necessary in the following cases:

- during long-term storage,
- in case of contact with dirt and water,
- after the shooting.

Most hunters consider it correct to conduct it immediately after the hunt or some time later. Although I know several people who do it only a couple of times a season, explaining that frequent cleaning is harmful and leads to scratches and a thinning of the chrome layer.
Well, in this case, as the master says, everyone decides for himself when and how many times to clean the gun, the main thing is that it is always in good condition.

Unfortunately, no matter how carefully a hunter treats his equipment, it will still wear out after some time. First of all, barrels are subject to destruction and this happens for the following reasons: interaction with gases contained in the air, due to the high temperature and pressure that accompany each shot, due to particles formed during the combustion of the igniter composition and gunpowder. As a result, a rash soon appears - small pockets of rust, which can then develop into shells.
Therefore, if after a hunt for some reason there is no time for a full cleaning, it is worth at least cleaning the barrels of carbon deposits.

You can leave a gun uncleaned for no more than one day, because... corrosion processes begin already 2-3 hours after shooting

Cleaning accessories

Cleaning rod - used for cleaning and lubricating barrels. The most commonly used material is portable, consisting of 2-3 elbows, wood or aluminum.

Metal brush- serves to remove hardened carbon deposits, lead residues and rust from trunks.

Bristle brush— applying alkaline lubricant to the walls of the barrel channels.

Puff - applying neutral lubricant.

Vishers are screwed onto a ramrod, and rags or a clean rag are wound around them.

Oiler with gun oil.

Brush - for sweeping debris out of gun mechanisms (for semi-automatic weapons).

Sharp sticks - remove dirt and old grease from narrow crevices.

Cleaning procedure

During the cold season, a gun can only be brought indoors in a case or wrapped in something. You can start cleaning no earlier than after 3-4 hours, when the temperature of the metal of the gun gradually equalizes the temperature of the room. This will prevent the formation of condensation.
In warm weather, you can start cleaning right away.

The first thing you need to do is make sure that the gun is unloaded, be sure to pay attention to this. More than once I have heard from hunters with extensive experience behind them how a shot turned out during cleaning. They themselves later wondered how this could happen, since they had long been in the habit of unloading their weapons after a hunt.

After checking, we carry out a visual inspection and clean it of dirt, dust and forest debris.
Next, we disassemble it; the degree of disassembly depends on the model and the nature of cleaning - partial or complete.

If you have just purchased a gun, or if you have any doubts, you should find information about the diagram and rules for disassembling this model. It is often better not to touch some mechanisms; it is enough to simply lubricate them.
For classic over-and-under and horizontal guns, this process is quite simple and boils down mainly to cleaning and lubricating the barrels and gun blocks.

For self-loading machines, the process takes much longer, because They can be disassembled almost completely and every detail requires care.
The cleaning sequence is chosen by the hunter himself.

Cleaning of barrels is carried out from the breech side (chamber). We wrap a rag around the assembled cleaning rod and clean the bore of carbon deposits. Next, if lead or rust is present, remove it with a metal brush; in this case, you can pre-lubricate the channel with alkaline oil to soften unburned residues. After some time, it must be removed with a dry cloth, because it can further damage the chrome layer.

Cleaning is carried out until no dirt appears on a clean, dry cloth after wiping the barrel. Having achieved this, apply a thin layer of neutral oil. In the future, before hunting, it will be better to remove it.

If necessary, sweep out debris from the remaining mechanisms and components of the gun with a brush, clean it of dirt and old grease, wipe it with clean rags and lubricate it with oil.
We wipe the outer surfaces of the blocks and barrels with an oily cloth, but do not allow the lubricant to get on the wooden parts of the gun.

Old guns may have small shells; dehydrated kerosene can be used to clean them.

Accessories for cleaning and lubrication can be purchased at any hunting store.

Take care of your gun and it won't let you down.

And finally, we present to your attention a short video about a convenient device for cleaning a gun in the field.

In our country there are many hunting enthusiasts who have rifled and smooth-bore weapons in their arsenal. Unfortunately, not all of them know when and how to properly clean their guns. They do not follow cleaning procedures. They do not know how to properly use devices for caring for expensive hunting equipment.

Unfortunately, ignorance of the cleaning rules and sequence can lead to premature failure of systems and individual parts of guns. First of all, the gun barrel suffers from improper care.

We hope that the material will help novice hunters and others to reconsider the concept of caring for weapons and cleaning them correctly.

Tools and accessories for cleaning guns

Before talking about the tools and devices used to care for sports or hunting equipment, you need to remember that the contents of the kit may vary.

It depends on the manufacturing company. Experienced hunters assemble the kit on their own and ignore standard accessories for caring for a hunting arsenal.

In addition, there are special devices for this or that weapon. Standard set includes:

Ramrod. It is usually made of aluminum. On sale you can find a cleaning rod that is single-section or consisting of several parts.
Vischer.
Brushes. They can be made from various materials. Experts recommend using brushes made of brass.
Ruffs. The set includes three types: bristle, spiral and down. The most productive option is brushes made of brass and bronze.

Neutral oils are used to process carbines and shotguns. Alkaline compounds are used to care for the trunk. If a weapon is put into storage, special means are used.

You can clean and remove dirt, including the barrel, using gun paste. It acts as a neutralizer of active combustion products of gunpowder, removes carbon deposits and fights corrosion. The paste restores the shine of varnished and metal surfaces.

There are other care products:

these are aerosols
lubrication of replaceable muzzle constrictions,
pencil for chemical blackening,
paste and liquid are actively used for bluing,
wax,
stain,
as well as impregnation for the care of wooden parts.

This is not a complete list of chemical protection products used for care.

For the above work, you can use components from domestic and foreign manufacturers. Today, there are plenty of materials for gun care on the market.

When should you clean your gun?

Weapons should be cleaned once every 30 days, provided they are stored without use.
You should also clean your weapon after hunting. Moreover, regardless of whether you shot from it or not.
When the weapon is zeroed. It is necessary to wipe the barrel after each shot.
The weapon should be cleaned after each shooting. Even when only one shot is fired.

By adhering to these simple rules, you will keep your weapons arsenal in full combat readiness.

How to clean a hunting rifle

Sequence of preparation and cleaning of the gun. The first thing to do is unload the weapon by placing it on the table. Remove the magazine and cartridge from the chamber. We carry out partial disassembly and prepare a cleaning kit.

ATTENTION !

Lubricants are applied from the breech, and not vice versa!

Then we leave the weapon in an upright position for about 30 minutes. At this time, we lubricate the gas mechanism and the shutter.

We look when the alkaline lubricant, having passed through the barrel, appears at the end of the muzzle. Using a patch wound on a visher, we remove the remaining alkaline grease.

Using a brush of suitable bore diameter, we pass it in a continuous, one motion without stopping or jerking.

IMPORTANT

follow this procedure for processing the barrel. Sudden movements or moving the brush forward and then back will not bring the desired effect. On the contrary, this can lead to damage to the barrel. Remember this!

To complete the cleaning process, you need to use a new patch, and having secured it on the visher, go through the barrel using a special liquid or prepared solution and wipe it dry. We alternately use a brush and a patch, removing soot particles.

The next stage is processing the chamber. The materials are the same as when cleaning the barrel.

Then, we assemble the weapon and coat the metal parts of the weapon with a substance that prevents corrosion.

By adhering to general principles, you can be sure that it will work properly and will not let you down during the hunt. It is necessary to regularly clean the weapon in order to extend its service life, using modern gun care products and accessories.

These are the general principles of care. There are differences in cleaning rifled and smooth-bore weapons. But this is a separate, big topic for conversation.

There is nothing easier than ruining a gun. I have seen guns that were quickly reduced to complete insignificance by neglect. Improper operation, storage, and improper care of a hunting rifle leads to disastrous results, so it is important to know how to properly operate a weapon during hunting and clean it after it.

Load ammo correctly

Use only, which means that under no circumstances should you exceed the charges established for the given caliber and weight of the weapon. For God’s sake, don’t listen to all these so-called “experienced hunters” who tell miracles about the firing of their guns with reinforced charges. It’s simply amazing how persistent the misconception is that the stronger the charge, the better the fight. It came to us from the common hunting habits of the last century. Then, for long and heavy ramrods, homemade by eye with a multiple safety margin, a one-and-a-half or even two-fold increased charge of black powder was not scary, and the cannon roar and puffs of smoke, combined with lethal recoil, made an indelible impression on their inexperienced owners. If you still managed to shoot something, then another hunting legend is ready. In fairness, it must be said that for strong and long-barreled weapons, when using black powder, as an exception, a slight increase in the charge can be allowed in order to increase range, but in modern guns and with smokeless powders, in no case.

Black hunting powder

Smokeless powder is much stronger than smoky, or as it is also called, black. If you put one and a half times more black powder in a cartridge, then the pressure developed during a shot will be one and a half times higher, or two times higher. With smokeless or nitro powders everything is much more complicated; the force of the charge does not grow in proportion to its weight, but much faster. Only completely irresponsible people can advise you to put a charge of, for example, 3 grams of Sokol smokeless powder into a 12-gauge cartridge. I often had to listen in different places in our country: “I put three grams of smokeless substance under a bullet, well, it hits! Force!". I agree, the fight turns out to be strong and sharp, with the butt hitting the shoulder, or even the face. The point is that the burning rate of gunpowder is constant, and, accordingly, excess gunpowder will not have time to burn out in the barrel in the short time that the charge moves along the barrel bore. These excesses burn out at the very end of the barrel tube and beyond and do not have time to transfer a useful impulse to it. In return, they manage to raise the pressure in the barrel to dangerous levels, create an excessive load on all components of the gun, and, breaking out of the barrel at great speed and turning the gun into some kind of rocket, transfer a powerful reactive impulse back to it and crack the shooter on the shoulder. An excessively large charge of gunpowder can cause rupture of the barrel or destruction of certain components of the gun. I know an old hunter whose right eye was knocked out by the bolt of a Berdan gun in his youth. The bolt was thrown out of the receiver by an excessive charge of gunpowder. Thank God, he remained alive and spent the rest of his life shooting from his left shoulder.

The length of the cartridges must match the chamber of the gun. The length of the chamber is indicated both on the gun itself and in its passport. Modern shotguns have chamber lengths of 70 mm (23/4 inches) and 76 mm (3 inches). Among the old guns there are examples with 65 mm chambers. Accordingly, cartridges come in different lengths. You cannot use cartridges longer than the chamber, since in this case, when firing, a pressure surge that is dangerous for the gun occurs immediately behind the chamber. I myself had a curious incident happen a year ago. I accidentally loaded my TOZ-34 with 70 mm chambers with imported bullet cartridges designed for 76 mm chambers. When shooting, I was surprised by the brutal recoil, I also thought: “The bourgeoisie make evil cartridges!”, but I could not open the gun - the bolt was jammed. Cartridges shorter than chambers can be used without fear.

Chambered for 76 mm

If a cartridge in a folder (cardboard) sleeve is swollen and does not fit into the barrel, you should not try to drive it there and forcefully close the gun, it will not take long to break the under-barrel hook, and unnecessary extra load will be placed on the axial bolt. It also happens the other way around: on a rainy autumn day, the cartridge in the barrel becomes damp and does not come out of the chamber, preventing the gun from being opened. You shouldn’t even try to open it by force (some try to do it through the knee), nothing good will come of it. In the best case, the metal butt of the cartridge case will come off, and removing the cartridge will become even more difficult. In the worst case, you will break the extractor. What should I do? And it's very simple. Shoot this cartridge into the air. The shot will bring the cartridge case into precise alignment with the chamber, and the gun will open easily.

Cleaning a hunting rifle

Each shot, albeit imperceptibly, still destroys the gun due to mechanical stress and chemical influence. If we cannot oppose anything to mechanical factors, except to prevent their excessiveness, then we can successfully resist chemical factors.

What kind of chemical attack is this on our weapons? From the point of view of chemistry, a shot is a lightning-fast process of combustion of the primer composition and gunpowder with the formation of a huge volume of gaseous products, the pressure of which ejects a shot or bullet from the barrel. A small part of these gases is pressed with high (up to 700 atmospheres) pressure into the smallest pores of the barrel metal and remains there for quite a long time. This process is called occlusion. In addition to gaseous products, solid products are also formed during the combustion of a powder charge and primer composition. Some of them fly out of the trunk along with gaseous ones and are called smoke. And part of it settles on the surface of the bore and is popularly known as soot or soot. These solid residues settled in the barrel and gases ingrained into the metal are the evil enemy of your gun. As a rule, all combustion products are hygroscopic, that is, they actively draw moisture from the air and, combining with it, form chemically aggressive solutions that destroy metal.

How to repel this chemical attack? To do this, it is necessary to remove or neutralize the combustion products of the charge as soon as possible and block the access of moisture from the air to their residues. Simply put, the weapon must be cleaned after shooting. There are many described methods for cleaning a gun. Often you have to read descriptions of lengthy and labor-intensive operations. Such sacred rituals. It must be said that lengthy and tedious cleaning of weapons can only be a pleasure for a beginner at the dawn of his hunting youth. I, being a lazy person by nature, began to look for the most acceptable option - so that the gun would not suffer and so as not to break a sweat. As a result, I settled on the following sequence of actions: as soon as possible after shooting (usually when I come home or to the base from hunting), I remove the bulk of the carbon deposits. To do this, I use a cleaning rod to push a thick lump of cotton wool, rags, or just toilet paper through the barrel (newspaper cannot be used!). The lump should be so tight that you have to tap it with a cleaning rod to get rid of it. After this, I generously lubricate the inside of the barrels with neutral gun oil, to which a little kerosene has been added. Now the gun can be left for a day or two. During this time, the oil and kerosene will soften the remaining carbon deposits and the thinnest films of lead adhering to the walls of the barrel (so-called lead), smears of polyethylene from wads and containers will absorb the gases escaping from the walls of the barrel, but at the same time will not allow air and existing there is moisture in it.

The next step will be the actual cleaning of the weapon. For this we need:

ramrod;
metal brush for removing lead;
bristle brush for cleaning and lubrication;
visher for winding wiping material;
gun oil and clean (this is important) wiping cloths.

In doing so, we will do the following:

In the same way that we removed carbon deposits during the hunt, we will remove from the barrel all the old grease with all the rubbish that it has softened or dissolved in itself.
screw a metal brush onto the cleaning rod and, having generously moistened it with oil, thoroughly (at least 50 times) clean the barrel, removing lead.
wipe the barrel dry, then wipe the barrel with tightly screwed wipers, changing them as they become dirty. This process must be continued until the rubbing stops removing black from the barrel.
thoroughly lubricate the inside of the barrel
after 2-3 days, the last three operations must be repeated.

After a lot of shooting, as well as at the end of the season, the gun should be washed. To do this, pour boiling water, about half a bucket, into a plastic or aluminum bucket (an iron one can damage the barrel), add two tablespoons of soda and a little soap. After the cleaning described above, I do not lubricate the barrel inside, but place the muzzle end in a bucket, from the breech I insert a ramrod with a wipe wound around the visher and move it like a piston, driving water. A hot, slightly alkaline solution will perfectly wash the barrel of all residues from the combustion of charges. After this, I thoroughly rinse the barrel with warm water to remove soda and soap and wipe it dry with a clean cloth. I lubricate the dry bore.

Rust is the main enemy of weapons

There is always moisture and various gases in the air, which, dissolving in the smallest droplets of this moisture, form compounds that are very aggressive from a chemical point of view. These compounds (mostly various acids and alkalis) cause rust. The smoother the surface, the more difficult it is for rust to cling to it; polished surfaces resist rust especially well. Various scratches, roughness, etc. significantly increase the surface of contact of the metal with an aggressive environment and, accordingly, accelerate rusting. Rust itself has a loose structure, and therefore not only increases the surface, but also attracts moisture. Therefore, metal rusting occurs at an increasing speed.

Rust on a gun barrel

Rust not only spoils the appearance of the weapon and interferes with the normal operation of its mechanisms. When rusting, the metal turns into rust, that is, the gun simply slowly but surely breaks down.

Preventing rust is easier than getting rid of it. The recipe for preventing rust is simple and well known - lubrication and cleaning. The weapon, even if it lies unused, must be regularly wiped and re-lubricated. What to do if the rust has already “settled”? It must be removed as soon as possible.

Fresh rust is easily removed. The old one must first be softened. It is best to soften rust with kerosene with a small (10%) addition of neutral gun oil “Glukhar”. To do this, a kind of compress is placed on the rusty place: a cloth or cotton wool is soaked in kerosene and oil, applied and covered with plastic wrap. Severely rusted trunks simply have to be bandaged in cloth soaked in kerosene. If rust has settled inside the trunks, then measures should be taken without delaying a day. Your gun is in danger of losing fire. To do this, the trunks must be plugged at one end and kerosene and oil poured into them. In any case, rust softening occurs within 3-4 days. After this, it should be removed using a hard eraser or a piece of wood or fairly hard plastic; it is good to use bristle or very soft metal (copper or brass) brushes. But under no circumstances should you try to remove rust with sandpaper, abrasive, or scrape with a knife.

How to lubricate a gun

Neutral gun oil "Glukhar" is available for sale - it is good for lubricating both the rubbing surfaces in the mechanisms of the gun and simply the surface of all its metal parts. Unfortunately, this lubricant is not durable; the oil evaporates quite quickly and requires regular (once a month) renewal. They say imported lubricants are very good. For long-term storage, for example, in the off-season, it is best to preserve the gun. To do this, a thoroughly cleaned gun must be coated (of course, only the metal parts) with some kind of thick lubricant: lithol, CIATIM, technical petroleum jelly. To facilitate the penetration of the lubricant into the most intimate nooks and crannies, it must be slightly diluted with the same kerosene. The fact is that kerosene wets metal surfaces very well, penetrating into any, even microscopic, cracks and pores - by the way, this quality is used to soften rust - and kerosene also carries dissolved oil with it. The kerosene will soon evaporate, and the lubricant will remain to protect the metal from corrosion.

Wood grouse gun oil

Before shooting, the thick lubricant must be carefully removed from the gun so as not to get dirty, and replaced with a thin layer of gun lubricant: simply wipe the gun with an oily cloth. The barrels must be wiped dry before shooting, otherwise the first shot will be false, and then you will have to worry about scrubbing off the oil that has burned inside the barrel.

Wooden parts must not be lubricated under any circumstances. The fact is that mineral oils, which are used as lubricants for metal, penetrate into wood and gradually destroy the structure of cellulose, of which wood is composed. The tree becomes brittle. I have previously described in detail how to save wooden parts of weapons and repair them.

We protect weapons from dust and dirt

Dust is tiny particles of various materials, sometimes very hard. As dust settles on the rubbing surfaces of gun mechanisms, it mixes with lubricant and forms some kind of abrasive paste, contributing to accelerated wear. After hunting on a fine August day, when disassembling the gun, you can sometimes hear a slight crunching sound - this is where dust particles have accumulated in the gun. Wipe it frequently and store it in a place inaccessible to dust.

Rules for handling a hunting rifle

There is no worse enemy for a gun than a careless owner. Much, of course, comes with experience. But at the very beginning of your hunting life, you need to remember the following rules of good manners when handling weapons:
Keep it clean and lubricated, which we have already discussed in detail;
Remember that a gun is a fragile thing and is not intended to be used to finish off wounded animals, to lean on it when climbing mountains, to knock on trees with it, or to drop it.
When opening a gun, you should not let the barrels fall down freely - this leads to accelerated wear of the extractor and under-barrel hooks.
When closing a gun, it is not advisable to slam it suddenly, throwing the barrels up - this greatly contributes to loosening the bolt mechanism of the gun.
You cannot click the triggers in vain - this will quickly break the springs of the firing pins, which will jump too far out of their sockets without meeting the resistance of the primers. In general, clicking the triggers and slamming the gun shut with a bang is a sign of a beginner who doesn’t understand anything about weapons, but wants to impress others. A knowledgeable hunter always opens and closes his gun, holding the barrels with his hand.
No need to shoot from two barrels at once. Firstly, it’s great, it will bleed, it will knock off both fingers stuck in the trigger guard, secondly, the recoil will crack your shoulder (and rightly so), and thirdly, the wear of the gun from such shooting is great. And in general, such shooting is stupid. It is always wiser to have a second shot in reserve to correct the flaws of the first.
Store it lubricated, in a dry place, disassembled, in a case. Access by strangers to your gun and ammunition must be absolutely excluded - and this means that you should store the gun not on the wall, putting it on public display and for the temptation of children, but under a lock (preferably metal).
Use only ammunition that is suitable for your gun, and do not be tempted by any random ammunition of unknown equipment or release date.

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