Feeder weight for current. A catchy budget tackle for perch: it successfully catches striped fish in spring and autumn. Hooks and leashes for feeder fishing

Crucian carp is a fish of the carp family and lives almost everywhere throughout central Russia. Crucian carp feed on almost everything, from algae to worms and insects that have fallen into the water. The crucian carp that lives in the middle zone is usually small, but the crucian carp that lives in the lower reaches of the Volga sometimes reaches the size of a small carp. There are two varieties of crucian carp in the middle zone:

• Silver– not very large, covered with medium scales of light shades. Handles transportation well.
• Gold- slightly larger than silver scales, relatively large, yellow in shade. Does not tolerate transportation well.

Contents

Float tackle

(or “float rod”) is perhaps the most popular and sporting equipment for catching crucian carp. It consists of a rod, reel, fishing line, the float itself, a sinker and a hook with a nozzle.

Also read the guide on, which will come in handy when fishing with a float and other gear.

Feeder tackle

The feeder rod () should be selected depending on the conditions (reservoir, weather). So, for large bodies of water with strong currents (rivers, reservoirs), a tackle with a large rod weight of up to 120 g is suitable. For small bodies of water, a tackle with a rod up to 60 g and a small feeder is suitable. Rods with a length of 3.5 - 4 meters are the most versatile and have a good price-quality ratio. When choosing a feeder, you should take products weighing slightly less than the test rod, since the rest of the weight will be “taken” by the bait.

Lure must also correspond to the reservoir (). When fishing on a body of water with a strong current, the bait should be dense enough so that it does not wash away, and on reservoirs with a weak current or standing water - as light as possible so that it does not sink in the muddy bottom. For the latter option, a base of breadcrumbs is suitable.

To prevent the fish from quickly getting enough and thus losing interest in the bait, the components of the bait should be small. Crucian carp do not have specific taste preferences, so there can be no unambiguous and clear advice on how to make bait. For scent, you can add a little grated garlic, ground seeds, vegetable oil or even ground cookies to the bait.

Baits. As with bait, there is no advice on what to fish with. The taste preferences of crucian carp can change even during the day. We can only say that crucian carp bite well on pasta, corn, pancakes, and rye bread dough flavored with garlic.

fishing line A cross section of 0.12 mm is suitable. If there is a chance of carp or other strong fish biting, it is better to take a fishing line of about 0.2 mm. The leash should be made in this case from a thinner fishing line. The nozzle should be such that small things like roach or bleak cannot swallow it. It is better to use hooks from No. 5 – 7 to No. 9. The latter is suitable for large crucian carp. Also, the hooks should be as sharp as possible, otherwise there may be problems with hooking fish.

Tops (quivertypes), like other tackle, should be selected depending on the conditions. In the current and in the wind, the tip should not be very sensitive so as not to react to these factors and not create false bites. When fishing on a still body of water in calm weather, it should be more sensitive so that the angler can see even the most sluggish bite.

The simplest equipment for crucian carp– paternoster.

The technique of catching crucian carp with a feeder is described.

Crucian carp killer tackle

We won’t repeat ourselves - there is information about this gear. And the design is a regular feeder donk with 3 feeders and 3 hooks.

A makushatnik is a special tackle for fishing using cake. Usually carp are caught with it, but sometimes crucian carp is also caught with it. In view of this, it is possible to catch crucian carp with it purposefully. Fishing for crucian carp on top has several features.

Spinning rods are often used as gear, but more professional fishermen use feeders.

• You can use a crucian carp bait together with makukha – most often worms and granules are used. Worms can be used either as dung or crawling worms, which can be found in the city or bought at a fishing store, or as “shore” worms, which can be obtained directly on the spot. Granules are used in anise, dill, hemp, corn, raspberry or strawberry flavors. The granules are placed two per hook.
• You can also use regular carp rigging, hooks can either be placed in the cake or left free. You can buy the cake flavored or flavor it yourself. Anise, hemp, dill and strawberries are suitable.

In today’s article we will look at what types of feeder feeders there are, what material they are made of, their shapes, and conditions of use. The main purpose of the feeder is to deliver food to the fishing point. There are a variety of feeders, and depending on the reservoir and conditions, we will use one or another feeder for fishing. Also, do not forget that in addition to delivering bait, the feeder plays the role of a load and it is important that its total weight with bait be 20 percent less than the upper limit .

Depending on the type of bait used, all feeders can be divided into three types:

• Mesh feeders (cage) - designed for the use of crumbly bait.
• Open type feeders (method and flat feeders) - viscous bait is used, which should not disintegrate when it hits the water.
• Feeders designed for the delivery of live food (cork feeders).

Depending on the material, they can be metal or plastic.

Feeders made of metal mesh

According to their form they can be divided into:

The advantage of these fishing feeders is that the metal mesh cuts the water perfectly, they resist the flow better than plastic ones and reach the bottom faster. A big plus when you don't want to attract small things from the water column.

When wondering which feeder feeders you should have in your arsenal, I would like to note the feeders from the company Brain. These feeders have a flat bottom on which the load is concentrated, while the bulk of it is placed on the side opposite to the loop. As a result, when entering the water, the feeder does not create a pop, which is a definite plus when fishing in shallow waters.

The disadvantage of metal feeders is that they do not float up well; this disadvantage is fully felt when fishing on deep edges and in places densely overgrown with algae.

When choosing a feeder in a store, you need to pay attention to the joints of the bars so that there are no jagged edges or sharp edges.

Also, mesh feeders may have a plug; you will need it when fishing in strong currents, and also when you use live food along with bait.

The British, who are ahead of the rest in terms of feeder tackle, have developed a special feeder tackle Shot Gun, its essence lies in the fact that when this feeder touches the bottom, a special piston pushes the bait out of it. Such a fishing feeder is not cheap, and it has not yet reached us. But I hope that soon it will appear on our shelves.

Plastic feeders for fishing

As a rule, they are cylindrical, with or without wings.

They are better suited for fishing in standing waters than metal ones; their advantages also include the fact that they can hold more food than metal ones, with the same weight. This is an immediate plus when, in order to maintain a normal bite, the fish need to be fed intensively. They float to the surface perfectly, especially if the feeders have wings, and are especially effective in places with a cluttered bottom. Feeder feeders with wings perform well on muddy soil, since the wings create an additional plane and prevent it from getting stuck in it.

The disadvantage of plastic feeder feeders is that they have a high resistance to water, which is why they are not recommended for use in currents, especially feeders with wings, since due to their presence they sink to the bottom even more slowly, and anglers often cut them off.

When choosing plastic feeders, you should pay attention to the weight at the base; if it is rectangular and strongly convex, it will create additional wind resistance when casting, which will reduce the casting distance. For example, at the feeders Feeder Sport the load is quite flat with rounded edges, allowing you to throw the tackle over longer distances.

Feeders with lugs

Designed for fishing in intense currents, they are made of metal mesh and come in rectangular and cylindrical shapes on a flat base.
These feeder feeders stay on the bottom better due to the presence of spikes on the load. In order to reduce wind resistance during flight, it is advisable to use an arched weight.

Feeder feeders for long-distance casting bullets

Very often in the canopy we have to fish at the maximum distance from the shore. In this case we use bullet feeders. They have a cylindrical or cone-shaped shape. Can be either metal or plastic.

There are two types of shipping: the first - the weight is located at a distance from the front edge of the feeder, the second - the weight is soldered into the mesh of the feeder itself.

These feeder feeders for fishing have minimal wind resistance, and the location of the main load on the bow improves the aerodynamic characteristics of the feeder, thanks to which it can be thrown at a distance of about 80-100 m even in the presence of wind. Also, these feeders go into the water practically without making any unnecessary noise, and due to the fact that the load is not cut along the plane, they float up well.

Feeding troughs

As a rule, before starting fishing, starting feeding is done; for these purposes it is better to use feeding feeders. Feeding troughs can be either plastic or metal (metal feeders come out faster).
They are larger in size than conventional feeders in order to supply as much food as possible in fewer casts; for the same reasons, feeder feeders do not have a load or it is very small.

Feeder feeders for open type fishing

These feeders are designed for fishing in still waters and weak currents.

Flat method feeders

The bait is driven into this feeder using a compaction and is held in place thanks to the presence of plastic arches. The basis of this feeder is a flat weight. Pressing of the bait is carried out using hands or a special mold. Moreover, feeders can be of different shapes and sizes, so the bee needs to be selected directly under the feeder. As a rule, using a mold, a hook with bait is pressed into the bait itself. The flat method is a more modern version of the nipple. Thanks to its flat and wide base, it works great in muddy bodies of water; it can also be caught in weak currents. When using method feeders, it is important to consider that the weight of the bait used will be equal to or even exceed the weight of your feeder.

When choosing flat method feeders for a feeder, you need to pay attention to the ribs, they can be located on the sides of the reel or be spaced apart, the size of the nozzle that you can use depends on the distance between the ribs of the feeder, so if the distance between the ribs is small you will not be able to insert a hook with a 20 mm nozzle, and at the same time, if you use feeders designed for wide nozzles and decide to use a small nozzle, then after casting and getting the feeder into the water, part of the bait will fall out and, with a high probability, your nozzle will also fall out.

Drop-shaped feeders have better flight characteristics due to the center of gravity shifted to the edge, although there are also classic flat feeders with additional weight. The downside of these feeders is that when they fall into the water, they sink into it with their noses more than a simple classic flat feeder.

For fishing in shallow but heavily silted reservoirs, you need to choose flats that have a wide base and light weight.

By casting distance:

Feeders weighing up to 25-30 grams are used at picker distances;

Feeders weighing 40-80 grams - fishing at a distance of 40 to 80 meters;

Feeders weighing 100-120 grams for pushing through strong winds and fishing at maximum distances of 100 meters or more.

Inside the flat method feeders there is an axial hole for sliding.

In carp fishing, we need a lot of food, so special frame feeders can be used here, which are a base with longitudinal ribs.

Various cereals and plasticines with flavorings are used as bait for method feeders (this refers to the degree of viscosity of the bait), and you can also buy specialized bait in the store.

Spring feeder feeders

They were actively used by our fishermen even before we had feeder equipment. This feeder consists of: a spring or spiral, a plastic tube and a weight, which can be located either on the plastic tube or on the axles.
The tube is hollow inside and you can thread a cord through it. It is precisely these feeders, connected in series in the amount of three pieces, that are the classic “crucian carp killer” tackle. The name speaks for itself.

Feeders for feeding animal food

Often, during the fishing process, we need to supplement the fishing spot with animal food (both pure and as part of bait); cork feeders are used for these purposes. They are made of plastic. There are small holes on the surface of the feeder through which food is washed out.

There are cork feeders for fishing

• Closed
• Semi-closed
• Open

Now let's figure out which feeder feeders are used when. Closed, equipped with two plugs, semi-closed, have one blind or removable plug. Used for fishing in medium and strong currents. Open feeders do not have plugs at the ends and are designed for feeding in standing reservoirs and in weak currents.

Which feeder feeders should be depending on weight

The first rule for choosing a feeder by weight is “you should use the lightest possible feeders that are suitable for the given fishing conditions and the equipment you have.” The most common feeders for standing reservoirs are 20-30 g; here the weight of the feeder will depend only on the casting distance. For weak currents, feeders weighing up to 40 g are used, on rivers with medium currents up to 60 g, for strong currents from 60 g and above. The weight of the feeder for fishing also depends on the depth of fishing and the strength of the wind, since a feeder that is too light will sink for a long time and be blown away by the wind in flight. Also, in the wind, the line will sail, dragging a light feeder along the bottom.

When you use a quiver tip to signal a bite, your feeder should not slide along the bottom, straightening its sensitive tip. If you have abandoned the tackle and the feeder does not clearly lie on the bottom, then put a heavier one, it is advisable to have an arsenal of feeders with a weight difference of 5 grams, this will give you the opportunity to choose the best feeder for the fishing conditions.

Video which feeder feeders are used by fishermen

I hope after today’s review you have no questions about what kind of feeder feeders exist and how to use them depending on the reservoir.

Feeder feeders

For a beginner, it is unclear why there are so many different feeders and what is best to buy for your needs.

Experienced amateurs have a lot of them in stock. Depending on the fishing conditions, one or another feeder can be used in the equipment. As a rule, it is connected to the feeder equipment through a swivel with a carabiner, and it can be changed quickly.
The main parameters of feeders: weight and volume. But besides them, there are several more important characteristics that you need to know about.

The main rule when mastering a feeder: do not buy too much so that it doesn’t lie around later.

There is no need to repeat the experience of those fishermen who bought different gear just in case, but never used many of them. With each fishing trip, with experience, it will become clear what gear is useful and what you can do without.

What is the weight of the feeder for the river and for the lake?

During the current, the feeder should lie well on the bottom, and not jump on it. It is allowed to move slightly (1-2m) after casting, before it hits an uneven bottom. This is achieved by correctly selecting the weight of the feeder and using the main line with the minimum permissible diameter.

For rivers (currents), feeders weighing 60-80g (weak currents), 80-100-120g (strong currents), and more than 120g (very strong currents) are rarely used.

The most popular feeder weights are: 70, 80 and 100g - these are the ones you most often use when fishing on rivers. This load is suitable for medium and moderately strong currents.

If you go feeder fishing on the river, then your arsenal must have feeders weighing 60-100g. The current can be different, even in the same area. It may vary depending on the time of year, precipitation, open closed locks, etc.

At the same time, do not forget that to this weight you need to add 20-50g (depending on the volume of the feeder) of the weight of the bait. And at the same time, see if the feeder test is suitable for this total mass. Most rods can easily cope with casting a load greater than their nominal test by 20-30g or more. But this should not be practiced often, especially since working with unacceptable dough changes the structure of the rod.

For standing water, the weight of feeders from 30g is suitable. Adding 20-30g of bait to this weight, we get a total weight that is comfortable to throw.

Which feeder shape is best?

Square and round are the main cross-sectional shapes of feeders. Triangular types have not been used for a long time.

Several years ago it was believed that square feeders held up better in the current. But time and practice have shown that there is no big difference between them and round ones.

For rivers and lakes, round and square ones are used, depending on desire.
Round, cone shapes with wings float up faster when unwinding. Pulling them up is easier and faster. In this case, the load on the coil is less.

Feeder volume

Understanding the importance of volume comes with time. The larger the volume of the feeder, the more bait you can put in it.

More or less bait may be needed:

• At the beginning of fishing, it is customary to quickly deliver a large amount of food to the fishing point. And then “support” the point in small batches of bait.
• In cold water (less than 15 degrees), less food is needed, and in warm water more.
• Carp, bream, crucian carp love to eat and require more food. Bleak, roach - less.
• On the current, on the river, you can feed a lot without fear of overfeeding the fish. In a pond with stagnant water, you need less bait.

Therefore, in addition to weight and shape, it is better to have several different volumes in stock.

Rockets and bullets

Two names for the same feeder designs. Rocket feeders (bullets) have an offset sinker at the end. This design allows them to fly better, one and a half times further than round and square ones.

The missiles must be in stock. It happens that you need to fish at extremely long distances.

Often the fish is far from the shore. Throwing a feeder to the maximum distance is not easy. But if you install a rocket, then making such throws is easier and they turn out to be more accurate. Moreover, this design sails less in the wind.

Closed or open?

Again, a few years ago there were many feeders on sale with a lid on one end. Bottom fishermen, saving bait, considered such a cover necessary. But for the feeder it is better to use open forms. Let the bait wash out freely and feed the fishing point. This is exactly the essence of feeder fishing.

Are lugs needed?

Such extensions on the sinker are designed for better retention at the bottom. In practice this is not noticeable. If there are lugs, they won’t interfere; if not, then don’t be upset; an ordinary smooth sinker is no worse.

Flat feeders

A special type of design with a flat sinker and ribs for attaching bait. Used in flat feeder fishing. This is a slightly different type of fishing for still waters. It differs from the classics in the technique and tactics of feeding bait with a nozzle.

Video about the variety of feeder feeders

How and where to throw the feeder?

So, after studying many recommendations, tying and tying loops for equipment, tying leashes, purchasing tackle…. - finally the feeder is assembled and you can start fishing. But how to find a fishing spot? This will be discussed below.

How to cast a feeder?

For those who are not familiar with casting technique with an inertia-free reel, I give a short educational program.

. We take the feeder with both hands. For a right-hander: left at the beginning of the rod, right at the level of the reel.
. Right index finger fix the braid, pressing it to the rod (see photo).

. Left hand open the line arc.
. We move the rod back behind the right shoulder, the feeder should hang down to 50 cm.
. At the same time, the left arm straightens.
. We smoothly accelerate, straightening our right arm and bending our left. When the feeder reaches the “2 o’clock” position, we increase the acceleration so that in the vertical position of the feeder the acceleration is maximum.
. Release your index finger from the cord. The feeder is flying.
. If the cord is fixed in a clip (also when using a rubber band), then until it is fixed, we line up the feeder in a vertical position. So that at the moment of fixation, the flexibility of the feeder absorbs the load on the cord.

Where to throw the feeder?

It is clear that for successful fishing you need to catch fish where they are. And for this you need to know its potential locations. These are, first of all, areas of the bottom with differences in depth: the edge of the river, riffles, underwater boulders, holes. The fisherman’s task is to “probe” the bottom and find promising places for fishing. Moreover, you can successfully do this without an echo sounder, standing on the shore at one point. Let's see how to do this.
Probably many people know “jigging” wiring, in which reeling alternates with free fall of the load. This is what we will use to study the bottom.

We take the feeder and attach a weight to the tip of the feeder cord. A “lead drop” type weight is better suited for this purpose. We select a small weight so that the load does not drift away with the current. We select a research area, remember the casting direction (for example, according to a landmark on the opposite bank) and cast the weight.

As soon as we feel the impact of the sinker on the bottom, we begin to “walk” along the bottom: we make three turns of the reel handle - pause, count to ourselves the time until the weight falls to the bottom, the next three turns - again a pause, count again, hit, the next three turns - pause , count, hit, three turns, etc. The time the weight falls between our reeling and touching the bottom gives us information about the bottom topography. If this time increases, then the depth is increasing; if it decreases, then the depth becomes shallower.

So, by exploring different directions, you can find a suitable fishing area. But that’s not all, you need to fix the casting distance at this place.

For example, we noticed by “jigging” difference in bottom relief. We unwind the weight, while counting the revolutions of the reel. We got, for example, 25 revolutions. We throw the load again in the same direction. We carry out jig reeling again. We found the drop point again. We unwind the tackle. Again 25 revolutions. This means that we were not mistaken and a real bottom drop is already emerging. In the same way, let’s try to “feel” the bottom several times to the left and to the right of the place under study, etc.

This way we begin to get a picture of what is happening at the bottom. For example, it becomes clear pit whether it is or edge.

After we have found a suitable place on the bottom and plan to feed it, we throw the weight again, further than the place under study. We find this difference again, stop the winding, take a rubber band and fix the braid on the bobbin. To do this, we make three or four turns around the spool with an elastic band and fix it in the clip.

Never fix braid in a clip! If cast too hard, it may simply not withstand the load. And the elastic band cushions the tension of the cord well.
We unwind the weight, at the same time, we should get the same turns of the reel handle (in our example, 25), and hook the equipment.

Now we know the direction (landmark on the shore) and we have a fixed casting range. You can throw the feeder not only to the same place, but also to a potentially catchy place!

Believe me, it’s better to spend even an hour exploring the bottom and fishing in a potentially fishing place than to cast at random and think: “am I fishing there?”

Make the first few casts without a hook, just a feeder filled with crumbly mixture. For example, 4-7 casts, every 20 seconds. Of course, such frequent casting can scare the fish, especially since fish have good hearing. But if fishing occurs from 20 meters from the shore, and even at a good depth, then the fish feel quite confident there. And the pleasant smell of our bait will make even shy fish come to you. After these casts, attach the hook with bait, and make casts at a normal pace (on average every 8-15 minutes). This way you can quickly create a “cloud” of bait at the bottom and attract fish.

When fixing the elastic band in the clip, it is impossible for the excess braid to come off. This can be bad when catching a large specimen, when the operation of the clutch is simply necessary. In this case, you will need to hook the elastic band and break it. Then you can operate the clutch as usual.

For those who like to watch and listen more than read, I suggest watching a short film about the basics of feeder fishing:

Selecting and winding the cord for the feeder

In this article we will not touch on the rhetorical question “what to choose cord or fishing line? ", and let's move on straight to purchasing and winding the cord for the feeder. If you use fishing line, the winding will be similar.

So, what kind of feeder cord?

There is a large selection of cord (braid) of various sections and colors on the market and in stores. But let's think about what kind of fish the feeder is counting on. Of course, each of us wants to catch our own giant, and of course we will achieve this, but when fishing on a feeder, the main part of the catch is bream, bream, small carp, roach, silver bream, rudd, crucian carp, bluefish, which are rarely caught weighing more than one, two, three kilograms. Larger carp are mainly found at fish farms, but the fishing method for them is different. And for our trophies, a sufficient cord diameter will be 0.08 - 0.14mm.

The smaller diameter of the cord allows you to cast further, it is less affected by side winds and the tackle is less carried away by the current. But it is easily cut by shells, with which the edges and riffles are so richly dotted, where the fish like to feed. So a diameter of 0.12 - 0.14 will be optimal.

As for color, it’s a matter of taste; some people prefer a cord that is disguised as much as possible under the surface of the water, while others choose something brighter so that they can clearly see it when reeling in.

There are many manufacturers of cords; recommending a specific brand is a thankless task. In our market, often the same cord, depending on the batch, can be completely different in quality. So it is better to buy from trusted stores and products from well-known brands.

So the cord has been purchased, now we will wind it on the selected reel. The cord must be wound almost to the edge, retreating only 1.5-2 mm.

If you wind the cord all the way to the side of the spool, then when casting, the loops will be reset, and, accordingly, the thread will become tangled.

The purchased cord can be 100 meters or 150 meters, and the spool can fit, for example, 200 meters. How to calculate the required 1-2 mm to the edge of the boot? For this we will need a spare spool, which came with the reel. Having a similar capacity, it will help us sharpen the required amount of inexpensive fishing line (for example, 0.2 in diameter) or nylon thread.

Many fishermen, instead of sharpening the fishing line, wind several layers of electrical tape onto the spool, thereby increasing its diameter. But this should not be done, since in the heat, melted glue from the insulation will fall on the braid, and this will lead to its complete replacement.

So, we install a spare plastic spool on the reel and attach it to the lower leg of the rod. We pass the cord through the only ring and tie it to the spool. It is better to immerse the reel with cord in water, because the soft cord will lie tighter and provide the necessary winding accuracy. With one hand we rotate the reel, winding the cord, and with the other we press the cord to the rod, creating the necessary tension and winding density. After the thread is wound, if the distance to the edges of the spool is greater than necessary, then sharpen the line. You can take any one, it will not participate in the fishing process.

The fishing line and cord must be spliced ​​together. The following node may be suitable for this:

After this, we wind the fishing line, not forgetting to create tension when winding. There should be a distance of approximately 1.5-2 mm to the edge of the side.

We remove this spool and lower it into the water, put a metal one, attach a fishing line behind it and rewind the sharpened fishing line and cord in the reverse order. Don't forget to create tension when winding! Alternatively, you can pass a cord or fishing line between the pages of a book, while pinching it with your knees.

Hooks and leashes for feeder fishing

For feeder fishing, hooks No. 10 - No. 18 according to the international numbering system are mainly used. Larger and smaller hooks are rarely used.

Choosing the size and shape of the hook depends on fishing conditions, type and size of fish, type and size of bait.

The more passive the bite, the more picky the fish, and we need to make our equipment even more invisible. And you have to use a thinner leash and a smaller hook. But as the hook decreases, the possibility of a fish escape also increases.

Moreover, the larger the fish, the less picky it is about the size of the hook.

The hook must be perfectly sharp. A good hook can easily pierce a maggot or scratch a nail. If there is a suspicion of loss of sharpness, it is better to replace the hook, because a dull sting is an empty bite.

Hooks must be made of high quality, properly tempered wire. The thickness of the wire varies. On thin hooks, the worm, maggot, and bloodworm remain alive for a long time, attracting fish. But a thin wire easily cuts the fish’s lip, which leads to escapes. This is especially noticeable during long casts. Therefore, choose a medium hook thickness, or preferably thicker.

Popular hooks from such manufacturers as: Gamakatsu, Owner, Kamasan, Trabucco, Hayabusa.

There are also counterfeits of well-known brands on the market, so buy hooks in good stores that value their reputation.

Leashes for feeder

Breaks and losses of hooks and feeders when fishing on a feeder are the most common thing. So you will need to knit a lot of different leashes.
For leashes, high-quality monofilament with a diameter of 0.12 to 0.18 is usually used.

Diameter is selected depending on the size of the fish you are targeting. If it is a roach, silver bream, ram, then a diameter of 0.12-0.14 is quite enough. High-quality fishing line with a smaller diameter is quite difficult to find on sale. If the object of fishing is underbream, bream, large crucian carp, then a diameter of 0.16-0.18 is optimal. There are special leash lines from different companies on sale, wound in lengths of 20 - 25 meters. They are usually of better quality than similar fishing line in large spools.

Select a soft fishing line, without memory, with a good breaking load at the smallest diameter.

Many anglers prefer fluorocarbon fishing line as a leash.

Its main advantage over conventional fishing line is its invisibility under water and resistance to abrasion, which is important when fishing on edges strewn with shells. Well, the disadvantage is rigidity, relatively low breaking load and higher price.

Average leash length For feeder fishing from 30 to 60 centimeters. And there is such a rule - the weaker the bite, the thinner and longer the leash is set .

So its length can reach one meter.

Before going fishing, it is advisable to tie in advance several types of leashes(or better yet, a couple of dozen) with different lengths, diameters and different hooks. This will save valuable time on fishing and make it possible to quickly adapt to fishing conditions. It is convenient to store leashes in a special leash holder.

See also a detailed video about choosing a leader line:

Feeder equipment

So, after choosing a reel for the feeder, let’s move on to the “heart” of feeder fishing - the equipment.

You've probably heard the terms more than once: asymmetrical loop, asymmetrical loop, paternoster. These are the names of various feeder accessories. So what should we choose from this?

The requirements will be simple:

• minimal possibility of the leash getting tangled around the equipment and cord when casting or when retrieving fish.
• absence of bulky elements and ease of manufacture;
• bite sensitivity;

Installation using anti-twist tubes

Well, experienced feeders don’t like these tubes and that’s that. This opinion may be formed after reading articles devoted to this topic. And of course it has its justification. But for novice fishermen, who may find other equipment too complicated, we can recommend using anti-twist tubes as a simple and quick way to get started with feeder fishing.

Some models even provide for the installation of two hooks. This is understandable. A fisherman who has been fishing with bottom gear for a long time knows very well what no bite is, and the more hooks with bait, the correspondingly greater the likelihood of catching at least something. But feeder rigs were invented to enhance this bite significantly! Fishermen, even fish inspectors, often come up to me and wonder: why do you have one hook? But believe me, if you feed correctly and choose the biting point, you won’t be bored; the bites will come one after another, literally a few seconds after casting. Usually 3-4 hours after feeding the catch rate is reached. So why two hooks? Or even three? They will only interfere with each other and get confused. And if the bite is weak or absent, then it is better not to add hooks, but to look for new places for fishing, experiment with bait, with groundbait, and you will definitely find your fish.

The main advantage of the anti-twist is the ease of installation, which is really important for a novice fisherman. Thread a cord through it, install stop beads on both sides, attach a swivel with a carabiner on one side, and just a loop for attaching a hook on the other. That's all. When biting, the cord slides freely through the anti-twist, signaling a bite.

Video about equipment with anti-twist tube:

But still, experienced feeders do not like these “rocker arms”. And there is a reason for it. The sensitivity of the gear when using these tubes is minimal; on a muddy bottom, dirt gets into the anti-twist, which leads to it clogging and the cord getting stuck. Flight performance when casting the feeder is reduced. It was repeatedly noticed that when biting carefully, the fish took the bait with an anti-twist much more reluctantly than when using other equipment.

Simple and sensitive equipment - paternoster

Perhaps the most popular equipment. We have already devoted a whole detailed one, where we carefully examined its advantages and disadvantages. I was skeptical about it for some time precisely because of its simplicity. But after much experimentation, I came to the conclusion that although it is slightly inferior in sensitivity to an asymmetrical loop, thanks to the minimal manufacturing time, it is worthy of taking a place among my favorite installation methods.

I often fish with two feeders, one with an asymmetrical loop and the other with a paternoster. The difference in sensitivity is practically unnoticeable. Yes, asymmetry responds better to even the slightest movement of the feeder, or to a fish sipping a worm, but is this sensitivity always necessary? In any case, the choice is yours, but knowing what a paternoster is and how to knit it will not hurt. It knits up in a couple of minutes and is quite capable of replacing a broken loop.

Knitting paternoster

Let's look at two main types of paternoster.

1. Gartner paternoster (two hinges)

We knit a paternoster directly on the main braid. And you can do this at home. Since there are no auxiliary parts on it, it will easily pass through even the smallest ring at the tip of the feeder.

At the tip of the main braid we make a loop for attaching a leash with a hook to it. At the same time, we make three or four turns, moisten and tighten the knot well.

We retreat from the knitted loop a distance of 15 centimeters. And we knit a larger loop, 5-8 centimeters long, in the same way. It should be such that the feeder can fit through it.

When fishing, we pass the resulting paternoster through the feeder rings. We pass a large loop through the ring of the swivel on the feeder. We pull out this ring and pass the feeder through it. When tightening the loop, try to ensure that the tightening is not at one point, but distributed over the swivel (see photo). This makes it possible to easily change the feeder without breaking the loop. Or we use a latch, with which it will also not be difficult to change the feeder.

Loop in loop, attach the leash with the hook to the small loop.

And the paternoster is ready. See also video

2. Paternoster (blind equipment).

We measure out a loop of about 10 centimeters, make a knot in three or four turns, moisten it and tighten it well. Cut in the middle. At one end we make a small loop for the hook, and tie the other to the feeder.

After fishing, it should be cut off and tied new.

Asymmetrical (asymmetrical) loop

This is probably the most popular feeder equipment. Its main advantage is sensitivity. A disadvantage is the tendency to get tangled when casting, especially with a leash length of more than 40 centimeters.

If, when the bite is active, I throw out this tackle again, but there are no bites, it means there is an overlap again. I pull it out - for sure!

For this equipment, it is important to choose a rigid fishing line with a diameter of 0.3-0.45. An asymmetrical loop consists of two parts: a twist with a loop for the hook and the asymmetrical loop itself.

1. We take two meters of fishing line and fold it in half. We measure 1.5-2 centimeters and make a loop for the hook.
2. A twisting method that everyone can do: fasten a loop to some object, and twist a fishing line 10-15 cm long under tension. Tighten a double knot at the end. You should get a layer like this.
3. On the remaining fishing line, measure out an asymmetrical loop with sides 60-70 cm by 40-50 cm. We thread a carabiner through the larger side to attach the feeder. And tighten the double knot.

In this equipment, the feeder slides freely along the loop, which gives maximum sensitivity to the equipment. When casting, the twist moves the hook to the side, preventing it from getting caught in the loop.

Watch the video of the asymmetrical loop

After fishing, it should be cut off and a new one tied.

Important components of feeder equipment and their properties

Main line. When installing a feeder fishing rod, monofilament fishing line is used. We recommend paying attention to the following brands: Mikado Sensei Feeder, Trabucco T-Force feeder, Shimano Technium.

The diameter of the monofilament is 0.2-0.24.

Price: 180 rub.

Price: 350 rub.
Shimano Technium.
Price: 1150 rub.

We do not recommend brands Salmo, Colmic, Gamakatsu, Owner, Suffix due to their insufficient rigidity. In feeder fishing, it is very important that the line does not stretch. This allows the tackle to remain sensitive to bites and accept even the smallest touches of the fish on the tip of the rod.

Attention! Why don't we use braided line?

The fact is that feeder fishing involves constant rubbing of the fishing line on the bottom of the reservoir. Braid is susceptible to rapid abrasion, while monofilament, on the contrary, practically does not deform when in contact with gravel, stones and snags.

However, quality braided line is used in competitive fishing. If you want, we recommend Pontoon 21 Extreama 0.14-0.16 mm. Price: 1050 rub. for 100 m.

Fluorocarbon leashes. The hook is tied to a fluorocarbon line (fluorocarbon) for two reasons:

1. This line is almost invisible in the water and does not scare the fish.
2. It has increased rigidity, and this reduces the tangling of equipment. The length of the leads, depending on the equipment, is 10-100 cm. For example, in the Method equipment it is 10 cm, and in the Helicopter and two knots it is 100 cm.

Best models: Pontoon 21 Grand Fluorocarbon and Owner Broad Game Pro 0.1-0.31 mm.

Pontoon 21 Grand Fluorocarbon.
Price: 655 rub. Owner Broad. Price: 330 rub.

There are ready-made leashes on sale: Owner RL 340 (thin hooks for bream), RL 330 (yellow hooks for corn), RL 044 (dark hooks for a worm). A choice for those who do not want to knit a leash with a hook and make a loop to the rig themselves.

Thickness of leashes. For a leader with a hook, use 0.1-0.2 mm depending on the weight of the intended fish. Up to 1 kg of production, 0.1 mm of fluorocarbon will be enough for you. The Running Feeder Rig and some others use a 0.3mm rigid fluorocarbon line take-off.

Swivel with carbine. It is important to choose a swivel commensurate with the feeder feeder, especially when using non-branded models. We recommend using an Owner swivel No. 14 when using a feeder larger than 60 g, and when fishing in still water using a small feeder - No. 12.

Important! Use only black or dark colored swivel but by no means golden. Bright elements of equipment can scare away fish.

Crimping tube. An optional element, but can be used to make some equipment that uses thick monofilament fishing line. The crimp tube helps secure the hook to the fishing line without using knots at all. Nevertheless, we advise beginners to study the basic nodes and use them first.

Feeder. In total, 7 types of feeder weights are used in feeder gear, differing in their design. Key parameters to pay attention to:

• Feeder shape. Round and spiral are suitable for fishing in still water and in the absence or very weak current. Square and flat feeders are ideal for fishing in the current, as their shape does not allow the current to move the feeder from its place.
• Weight. Feeders up to 30 g are ideal for fishing in still water, and at the same time, you can throw such a load with a feeder rod at 50-80 m quite easily. For fishing in the current, use heavier feeders. Weight depends on the strength of the current and the depth of fishing. For example, in the Volga region on the Volga they use 120 g square feeders.
• Presence of thorns. Again, when fishing in the current, use feeder feeders with spikes.
• Shape and placement of the sinker. Important for the quality of self-tapping of feeder equipment. The more massive the side of the sinker is close to the hook, the harder it will be for the fish to move it, therefore the quality of hooking increases.
• Closed or open types.
  Closed The feeder is designed for small feed that is easily sprayed in water. The most popular are the spring and feeder for animal baits.
  Open– with a sharp pull, it is easily freed from the bait, pouring it out in the right place. Varieties: cylindrical, rectangular, “curler”, container, “Method” (Method), with spikes and a bullet feeder that flies well.

Limit stop. The element is important for protecting the units from the heavy elements of our installations. Use hard rubber stoppers, soft plastic is a little worse, and it’s much worse to use beads as a stopper because of their hardness. Sooner or later they will damage the node.

Anti-twist tube. It is useful in equipment with the same name (the second name is “rocker arm” or “anti-twist tube”). Serves to move the fishing line with the leash to the side, which reduces the number of tangles in the equipment. They are used in currents and extremely rarely in still water due to the massiveness of the element.

Anti-twist tube and bead stopper

Hooks. Choose sharp, strong hooks that won't bend or break. Editor's Choice – Owner. The standard size for the feeder is No. 6-8. But for catching medium and small fish, they use up to No. 16 (roach, bream, silver bream), and when catching bleak on a floating rig – No. 20.

There are other elements, but they are used less often and we will talk about them further.

Do-it-yourself feeder installations (photo + video instructions)

Most of the feeder rigs, which we will discuss below, cannot be bought assembled in a store, so you need to be able to knit them yourself.

All feeder installations can be completed in no longer than 5 minutes. Be sure to watch the video under each type of equipment.

• Alexey Fadeev, world champion in feeder fishing
• Vladimir Nikolaev, author of a popular YouTube channel about carp fishing and the secrets of carp fishing.

Paternoster

To connect the paternoster feeder equipment we will need:

• The main fishing line (we will knit the feeder equipment right on it).
• Swivel with clasp (carbine).
• Feeder weight.
• Fluorocarbon line (1 m).
• Hook No. 8 according to international numbering.

This diagram of the feeder equipment and all subsequent ones show the dimensions of the elements. Read about specific fishing line companies at the beginning of the article.

Step-by-step instruction:

Watch step-by-step video instructions on tying a paternoster for novice anglers from Alexey Fadeev, world champion in feeder fishing.

Running Feeder Rig

The swivel ring is compressed with pliers to act as a stopper against the knot

Feeder rig Running feeder rig is a sport rig and differs from non-sport rigs in that if a fish breaks the rig, the feeder will remain on the bottom, and the fish will only be left with a hook, which guarantees a minimum of damage and a greater chance of survival. The Running Feeder Rig is knitted both on monofilament line and on braid. But we recommend using braided wire. Used by sports fishermen in competitions.

Helicopter and two knots

The helicopter feeder rig and two units are used for fishing from the bottom and in the middle layers of water. It performs especially well in the current when fishing for roach, bream and bream, and silver bream in conditions of active biting.

Mount on the main line.

1. Measure 30 cm at the end of the fishing line and fold it in half
2. Measure 10 cm on the resulting folded section and tie a Figure Eight knot.
3. From the tied knot, measure a distance of 2 cm and make another Figure Eight knot. It will not be easy to tie due to the proximity of the two nodes, but it is quite doable. We will get a loop and 2 knots.
4. Cut off the unnecessary excess length with scissors.
5. We thread the feeder through the loop through the swivel. We fasten the swivel using the cape (noose) method.
6. Measure 1 m on fluorocarbon fishing line and cut it.
7. Make a loop at one end of the fluorocarbon (preferably with a figure eight knot).
8. Now we need to connect the rig to the fluorocarbon leader. Pass the loop inside the 2 cm gap formed from the two knots in step No. 3. Then thread the free tip of the fluorocarbon into the loop of the leash and tighten. Thus, using the noose methods, we fastened the equipment and the leash.

The helicopter and two knot feeder rig is very susceptible to bites as the bait is in almost direct tension with the main line running to the tip of your feeder rod.

Asymmetrical loop

The feeder rig “Asymmetrical (asymmetrical) loop” is knitted both on the main fishing line and on a separate piece of fishing line.

You can knit both while fishing and before fishing (do removable installation). We will need Owner fluorocarbon line. Line diameter – 0.28-0.31 mm.

Fluorocarbon has high rigidity, which is extremely important when creating installations. All nodes must be rigid. This will improve the sensitivity of bites and their implementation. Also, fluorocarbon (in other words, fluorocarbon) is practically invisible in the water, which allows you to hide the equipment from the fish. And most importantly, fluorocarbon is not so damaged by a rough bottom with shell rock, driftwood and other debris in the water, so it is ideal for installation.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Measure a distance of 30-40 cm from the end of the fishing line
2. Form a loop (fold the fishing line in half). Tie a Figure Eight knot.
3. Next, form a twist. These are two intertwined pieces of fishing line. The most convenient way is to simply take the loop in your teeth, very carefully, without injuring the fishing line, and begin to twist the two ends of the fishing line clockwise or counterclockwise until you get a tight twist 15 cm long.
4. In the place where the weaving ends, pinch with your fingers and form another “Figure Eight” knot. This is done like this: The upper segment is superimposed on the lower one. At the point of intersection, you pinch this place with your fingers and then unfold the resulting loop away from you and draw the resulting loop window into your twist. Hold the place of fixation without letting go with your fingers and tighten (be sure to moisten).
5. Second part of the equipment: Loop. The equipment is called asymmetrical. One part of the loop will be longer than the other. We take a swivel with a clasp, for example, Owner No. 12 due to the fact that it is universal and very durable. Insert a piece of fishing line into the swivel. Bring to the knot. Next, fold the two fishing lines.
6. Now we need to create asymmetry in the rig, making one piece of fishing line longer. Namely the one on which the swivel with clasp is fixed. To do this, we fold the fishing line in half and pull the swivel, releasing the lower part of the fishing line. You can make this distance 1 or 2 cm.
7. Measure a distance of 10 to 15 cm from the knot. At this point, fix the line with your fingers.
8. Now secure the equipment with the same “Figure Eight” knot.
9. We cut off the unnecessary piece of fluorocarbon closer to the node.
10. The third element of the rig - the section will be fixed with the main fishing line (if you are making the rigging not on the main fishing line. Fold the section in half, form a small loop and secure with a Figure Eight knot. Cut the remaining section of the fishing line just below the knot.
11. Tie a working fluorocarbon leash 0.24 cm thick to the twist loop using the Loop to Loop method.

Important!

When assembled, the twist should end 2 cm below the feeder. This rule must be observed so that the equipment does not get confused during casting and during reeling when you re-throw the feeder tackle. If the twist ends at the level with the feeder, then there is a high probability of entanglement.

Maintain proper asymmetry. Do not make the overhang too large (more than 2 cm). In this form, it will lose its basic concept. With a large overhang, the effect of hiding the bite occurs. If the fish is cautious, then it will try the equipment and you will not see a bite. A careful crucian carp will eat the bait and you won't know it. Make the overhang no more than 2 cm!

If you use fluorocarbon line for twists, do not use thicker than 0.3 mm. Otherwise it will look too rough in the water.

Three important qualities of an asymmetrical hinge

An asymmetrical loop is the only equipment that is immune to negative factors:

• heavy rain shakes the rod tip, transmitting vibration to the bait;
• strong wind;
• angler mistakes, excessive touching of the rod blank.

When fishing with an asymmetrical loop, the groundbait and bait remain in place, regardless of external influences on the feeder tackle: rod tip, fishing line. This is very important when catching trophy fish (crucian carp, bream, ide and carp, carp and grass carp, etc.).

Self-cutting equipment. This is not sporting, but thanks to the loop, when taking the bait into the mouth, the fish does not feel the resistance of the feeder. The hook penetrates deep into the mouth and after a second or two the fish, moving from the fishing spot, is caught under the influence of the gravity of the feeder.

The asymmetrical loop rig can be used many times if it is not damaged during fishing. Before fishing, prepare 7-10 pieces so that if the gear breaks, you can quickly change the rig and continue fishing.

Symmetrical loop

We will need:

• Fluorocarbon Pontoon 21 Grand Fluorocarbon. Diameter: 0.28-0.31 mm.
• Swivels with Owner fasteners No. 12-14.

We will make removable equipment so that you can make 5 or more pieces before fishing, and during fishing, change or replace one with another if necessary. It is convenient to store the equipment on a float reel or in another special container.

The symmetrical loop is similar to the Running Rig, but the difference is that the latter is a sliding and non-snapping rig, formed only when fishing on the main line. A symmetrical loop is a self-locking device.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. We unwind 30 cm of fluorocarbon fishing line.
2. Fold in half and knit a loop with a Figure Eight knot.
3. Next, we form a twist 10 cm long.
4. We fix it with the same knot.
5. We string a swivel onto one of the free ends of the fishing line and bring it to the knot.
6. We measure a distance of 15 cm from the knot and knit another “Figure Eight” knot. The feeder stroke can be greater, up to 40 cm.
7. We cut off the extra piece of fishing line.
8. We attach a feeder weight-feeder to the swivel.
9. From the free end of the fishing line, 20 cm from the knot, make another loop with a figure eight knot. We will need it to attach the main fishing line using the “loop to loop” method.

Important! The length of the twist should be below the bottom of the feeder to avoid tangling.

How does it work?

The feeder falls to the bottom. The fish finds the bait and begins to move to the side. It also makes a jerk due to the fact that the swivel and feeder are rigidly fixed - the fish hooks itself under the weight of the feeder. Due to the symmetry, we have a very quick bite signal than with an asymmetrical loop.

This equipment is used for catching small and medium-sized fish (medium-sized crucian carp, roach, bream) during periods of active biting. It performs well on rivers, lakes and ponds, where there is a shallow muddy bottom, or even better, a dense hard surface.

The main advantages of an asymmetrical loop:

• self-hooks fish;
• sensitive to bite;
• it can be used many, many times.

Flat method

Flat method– carp feeder equipment, which is based on a feeder with a flat sinker. The uniqueness of the feeder is that it is immersed with the sinker down, thanks to this the bait, which is hidden in the upper part of the feeder, is always open and accessible to the fish.

Ideal for fishing on muddy reservoirs and reservoirs with a dark peat bottom when catching crucian carp, carp and bream of completely different sizes, including trophy specimens up to 10 kg.

Varieties:

• Classic flat mounted on the main line, lightweight and suitable for feeder fishing.
• Carp flat method. Elements of carp equipment are used (, leadcore, larger flat-method feeders).

How to do the classic flat method

Necessary:

• Flat-method feeder (mini-flat from 15 g, heavy up to 100 g). They come with a classic swivel.
• Mold is a special device for loading bait into a flat-method feeder. Usually comes with a feeder. But you can also buy it separately.
• Monofilament line 0.25-0.30 mm. A very important advantage over braided wire is that it stretches. This allows you to dampen strong jerks of large fish.

Instructions:

1. The main line is threaded into the cone of the “Method” feeder into its narrow part.
2. Next, we insert the fishing line into the feeder. We get the Inline system when the line passes through the feeders. There are also other types of systems.
3. Next, at the tip of the fishing line we knit a small loop with a figure eight knot, do not forget to moisten it. We cut off the excess fishing line.
4. We insert the loop into the special connector of the feeder; it looks like a small hollow cylinder. It will block the swivel that we will now attach.
5. Using a noose, we attach the swivel to the loop.
6. We place the connector on the swivel.
7. Now let’s thread this connector into the method feeder. The swivel is tightly fixed in the body of the feeder.
8. The cone that we put on the fishing line in the first step is put on the method feeder. Now the feeder is firmly fixed in the equipment.
9. The thickness of the leash is 0.16-0.20, do not be afraid to use such a thick fishing line, because it will practically not be visible, the bait will be hidden inside the feeder. Hooks No. 4 according to international numbering are only used when fishing with large bait in the form of several corn grains. Use a #6 or #8 hook much more often. Leash length 15 cm, no longer needed.
10. Leash attachment. Make a loop on the leash to attach it to the swivel using the loop-to-loop method. That's all. You can make such equipment in 3-5 minutes.

How to load bait into the “Method” feeder?

The bait should be of a special “method consistency”, more viscous.

1. We bait the hook with corn grain. You need to thread it through the corn from the narrow side, moving it to the side so that the point of the hook sticks out from the side of the nozzle. This fastening is much more reliable than fastening through the wide part of the corn (after all, it is less dense).
2. We put the bait (attachment) inside the mold. Usually there is a special recess for it.
3. Next, we pour bait into it - a little heaped, but not tamping.
4. We lower the feeder into the filled mold so that the line between the bait and the feeder does not get into the bait, but is simply suspended outside it.
5. We press with both hands. Strong enough. It is important that the bait is very tightly secured in the frame of the feeder.
6. We take out the feeder from the mold.

How does it work?

Feeder equipment with a flat method feeder does not lose feed after casting and contact with water. Having reached the bottom, it lands on a flat sinker, leaving food and bait at the top. The food slowly dissolves, and the fish feels it. Swimming up - bream, carp or crucian carp begin to eat the bait, among which lies an appetizing grain of corn with the taste of chewing gum. The fish sucks up the bait, and when trying to leave the feeding area, it is caught under the weight of the feeder.

Popular attachments: Bloodworms, maggots, worms, canned corn, granules, etc.

How to do a hair montage?

Hair installations with a ring and a cambric. Do not use hooks with a long shank. The number of bites will be lower.

Owner Eseama 14-16 hooks are very good when using hair equipment and 8-10 without it. These hooks have an inwardly curved tip, which increases the chance of successfully hooking a fish.

The boilie size is 10 mm.

Hair rigs are made for hunting trophy fish. Hair is a branch from the fishing line or leader material on which the bait is attached, and the hook is located next to the hair and the bait, without direct contact.

The advantage of hair rigs is more confident bites. The fish does not feel the weight of the hook when sucking the bait. The hook easily slips into the mouth of the fish and when hooking it is sure to hit the lip.

Hair is effective when catching bottom fish - crucian carp, carp, carp, barbel and bream, but it is less often used when fishing with feeder equipment; the best option is a flat-method feeder.

We will need:

• Fluorocarbon line 0.2 mm
• Hooks No. 6-8
• Cambric
• Boilie needle

Instructions:

1. On fluorocarbon we knit a loop with a diameter of 3-5 mm using a figure eight knot or a regular knot.
2. We measure the length of the leash at 50 cm and cut it off.
3. We string 2-3 pieces of silicone tube (cambric) 5 mm long onto the free tip of the leash.
4. We take a hook with a slightly elongated tip and pass this tip inside the silicone tubes, starting with the last one we put on the leash.
5. We wind the free end of the fishing line from the outside of the hook. So that in the final version of the rig the line comes out of the hook from the inside (from the side of the sting). This is important to increase the chance of correctly hooking the fish.
6. We make 6 turns around the shank of the hook and pass it through the ring again in the same direction. The result was a nodeless connection.

Baiting a boilie for hair mounting

1. We pierce the boilie in the center with a special needle for boilies.
2. There is a hook at the tip of the needle, hook the tip of your hair montage onto it and bring the needle back through the boilie.
3. Secure the boilie to the hair with a stopper. The color of the stopper should be close to the color of the boilie.

Feeder equipment with anti-twist

Feeder equipment with an anti-twist is a classic and one of the first rigs that is used when fishing on muddy bottoms and hard ground.

1. We thread the main fishing line inside the anti-twist.
2. Next, we thread a bead or rubber stopper. They will serve as protection for the swivel, which will be secured further from the massive anti-twist. A rubber stopper softens impacts better, so we recommend using it.
3. We tie a swivel to the end of the fishing line with a clinch knot. Be sure to wet the knot to avoid burning the line.
4. We attach the feeder to the clasp (carbine) of the anti-twist.
5. Let's make a leash. We measure 50 cm of fluorocarbon fishing line. We form a loop at one of the ends and attach it to the swivel of our equipment with an anti-twist using the loop-in-loop method.
6. We attach a hook to the free end of the leash.

In the current installation, you can use a rubber shock absorber, which will allow the fish to swallow the bait even deeper, and then, when the rubber tension limit is reached, a hook will occur.

All structural elements of this equipment are attached in exactly the same way as in the installation with an anti-twist, except for the feeder. Make a 10 cm long piece of fishing line twisted from two lines between the anti-twist and the feeder. This will allow you to raise the tube and the equipment along with it a little higher above the bottom. It turns out to be a kind of symbiosis with the “Helicopter and two knots” equipment.

In this variation of tackle, use a longer leader and light baits so that the bait sinks to the bottom as long as possible when the feeder falls to the bottom. This will definitely provoke active fish to bite.

Floating feeder equipment

A floating feeder rig is ideal for catching surface fish species: saberfish, bleak and rudd.

Structurally, the floating feeder equipment is a copy of the “symmetrical loop” installation, with the exception of 2 nuances:

• The feeder is of the Floating Feeder type, that is, floating. At its base lies not only a sinker, but also cork material, which allows you to throw the equipment far enough and remain on the surface when it touches water. Feeding occurs by spreading a cloud of turbidity in the water.
• The leash can be made a little shorter.

The length of a symmetrical loop for successful self-cutting is 7 cm, no more.

Use smaller hooks comparable to the size of the fish's mouth. When hunting rudd or saberfish – No. 16 according to Owner’s classification. For bleak 18-22.

Making carp rigs with your own hands

We have already touched upon the topic of carp superficially. Now let's look at them in more detail.

Carp installation “Safe clip”

Safety clip(safety clips) - an element that attaches the sinker to the fishing line, facilitating the easy release of the fish from the sinker if the main cord breaks.

This equipment has advantages over other equipment when fishing in snags, since the load is secured in a safe clip, which guarantees detachment under strong tension.

We will need:

• Leadcore (thickness 45 lb). This element has a braid and a lead core. It plays the role of weighting the equipment at the bottom so that the fishing line does not hang in the water column and does not scare the fish. The second role of leadcore is that it is a safer material for fish when playing. The carp will not be scratched during sharp maneuvers because the material is soft and thick.
• Mounting needle for leadcore.
• Quick release with swivel.
• Safety clip (Safety Clips, with a lock for blind equipment or sliding) - plastic or metal. The disadvantage of plastic is that it breaks during forceful casting. There are also metal options on sale, try it.

Instructions:

1. We fix the leadcore in the needle. To do this, take out a core about 3 cm long from it and bite it off with tongs. Return the braid to its original place and bend the leadcore where the core ended. At the bend, pierce the leadcore with a needle and bring it out after 2 cm towards the tip.
2. We put the swivel on the tip of the leadcore, and then hook the hook of the needle on this very tip and begin to move the tip of the leadcore inward with slow rotational movements left and right - forming a loop.
3. Cut off the extra piece of the tail, leaving a little more than 1 mm. We tighten it very tightly. The harder you pull, the more firmly the braids will be attached to each other and will not unwind.
4. We drip a drop of Moment Pro glue in the place where the leadcore shell went inside for an additional guarantee of strength.
5. The length of the leadcore will be 60 cm. We perform the same operation from stages 1 to 4 on the other side. And yes, the presence of leadcore greatly distinguishes carp rigs from classic feeder rigs.
6. We insert the needle into the clip from the side where we will have the cone, fasten the leadcore into the needle and pull it through the clip to the very end.
7. The clip is put on the swivel on the other side of the leadcore. It is important to secure the swivel in the clip using a small plastic quick release, this is part of the clip itself.
8. Step No. 7 is also done with the cone for the clip.
9. We put the sinker on the clip and fix it with a cone.

Carp equipment Inline (Inline)

There are many types of Inline installations described on the Internet, and most of them structurally replicate the Running Feeder Rig. But historically, Inline is a carp rig for carp fishing (waiting) fishing, not feeder fishing. In carp fishing, a feeder tip is not used as a bite alarm, but a bite is detected by an electronic alarm. When the line is released from the reel, the alarm makes a sound. Naturally, this is a sliding equipment, which means it is sporty.

Inline is suitable for fishing on rocky hard bottoms and shell rocks. Unsuitable for fishing in snags, since the sinker does not shoot off under strong tension. It's also bad on muddy bottoms.

Feeder installation Inline is very good at self-hooking carp and carp due to the drop-shaped shape of the sinker. The part of the sinker close to the leader has a thickening, which gives much more resistance to lifting from the bottom. Consequently, the hook with the sinker is sharper.

You will need:

• Inline cargo
• Leadcore (with or without core) length 60 cm
• The needle is thin for leadcore
• Large broaching needle
• Scissors and glue
• Swivel

Instructions:

1. We form a loop at one of the ends of the leadcore (we use leadcore without a core). Apply glue to fix the loop.
2. We fasten the swivel using the “loop-to-loop” method.
3. We insert the mounting needle into the Inline sinker from the side of the connector tube (narrow part), and attach the free tip of the leadcore to the needle. We tighten the swivel inside the sinker by pulling on the free tip of the leadcore.
4. The leash is attached to the swivel using the loop-to-loop method or another reliable knot.

Improvement of equipment

Feeder Gum, Power Gum

Feedergam dampens sudden jerks of fish. This is a piece of rubber between the feeder equipment and very thin fluorocarbon leaders (for example, 0.1 mm).

Feeder rubber is important for creating a shock-absorbing effect in the equipment. This is especially important when using the main cord - braid. Length – 10-12 cm, thickness 0.6-0.8. Feeder Gum provides delicate fishing with very thin fishing line (0.1 mm).

Installation:

1. Pull the feederham. When the knot is pulled together, it will return to its original state and give the knot greater strength.
2. Make loops on the feedergam using a figure eight knot on both sides of the elastic.
3. The feeder will be an intermediate link between any of the rigs and a fluorocarbon leader. Everything is attached using the “Loop to Loop” method.

Important:

1. Don't make the feeder ham long. Up to 15 cm is ideal. 30 cm is too much. The longer the rubber, the more tangled the equipment is and the less sensitive the equipment is.
2. Don't use colored rubber bands. Take transparent ones. This doesn't scare the fish.
3. Do not glue the elastic knots. This eats away at the feeder.
4. Lighten your feeder rigs. Do not use swivels when attaching swivels. Only using the “Loop to Loop” method. This will reduce weight and reduce the amount of debris that can be caught from the bottom by unnecessary elements in the installation.

Asymmetrical loop + feedergam = the best combination.

Protection of equipment from snagging

In order to protect the equipment from snags on snags and falling through stones - Reduce the thickness of the fishing line on which the feeder weight is attached. If you get hooked, you will lose the feeder, but if there was a fish on the hook, you will fish it out.

Applicable in snap-ins:

• Paternoster and Gardner's loop.
• A helicopter and two knots, if you knit a large loop on a thinner line.

On Inline, Method rigs - use a safe clip. Once caught, it will come unfastened.

Take action!

1. Equip your feeder rod with a rigid, inextensible monofilament line, e.g. Mikado Sensei Feeder 0.24 mm 150 m. This will increase the number of bites.
2. Decide on fishing conditions. Let's say we we want to catch bream on the Volga. This river usually has current and hard bottom, so we will use feeder equipment Helicopter and two knots. Assemble it directly on the main line according to our instructions from this article. It will take no more than 10 minutes.
3. Since fishing takes place in the current, at great depths and at a distance from the shore of at least 50 m, it should choose a feeder weighing from 80 to 120 g. Choose a form square type with spikes so that the feeder does not slide along the bottom.
4. Tie to feeder equipment fluorocarbon leader 0.3 mm thick and 1 m long. At the end - hook No. 8 according to international numbering. Bream does not have a very large mouth, so small hooks should be used.
5. Use as bait bunch of maggots. Bream really loves bunches of 5 or more pieces.
6. The bait must contain sweet ingredients (vanillin, chewing gum flavor, cake).
7. After catching a fish, not necessarily bream, please share your experience here in the comments below the article. Thanks for reading!

The success of fishing largely depends on the correct choice of equipment. This issue must be taken responsibly. One of the main elements is its feeder. They differ in a number of indicators. A special group includes feeders for strong currents. What this equipment is, its varieties, as well as methods for making it yourself - all this will be discussed further.

general characteristics

The equipment of a feeder rod requires the mandatory use of a feeder. This follows from the name of the type of fishing itself. The word "feeder" translated from English means "feeder".

This element of the fishing rod delivers bait to the required fishing spot. In this case, the feeder has a certain weight. Therefore, it also performs the function of loading. The feeder reaches the bottom and remains there, spraying nutritional components around. It is important that it is not carried away by the current.

When fishing for fish, the feeder should not cling to bottom vegetation or rocks. Therefore, certain requirements are put forward for its weight and shape. There are feeders designed to freely spray the internal composition in the pond. Other designs, on the contrary, supply nutrients in small doses. The choice depends on the characteristics of fishing.

Weight

The feeder for fishing in the current should be heavy enough so that it does not get carried away. It should lie flat on the bottom. Feeders that are too light bounce in the current. Of course, you shouldn’t expect that in a strong current it will lie firmly to the bottom. A displacement of 1-2 m is allowed. It rests on the unevenness of the bottom, fixed in one place. The weight of the feeders can be like this:

• 60-80 g - for weak flow;
• 80-120 g - for strong current;
• more than 120 g - for a very strong current.

The last of these options is rarely used. Such feeders are more suitable for fishing on mountain rivers. Most often, for medium and strong currents, feeders weighing 70, 80 or 100 g are purchased. Moreover, experienced fishermen note that when going to the river, you need to have several feeders in your arsenal. They differ in weight and volume. it is possible to select the best option for existing fishing conditions. Even in the same place, the current can change depending on the time of day or season.

Rod test

The equipment of the feeder rod is selected in accordance with the strength of the current. However, you should not forget about the test of the form itself. This range is indicated on the rod. These numbers indicate the maximum and minimum weight of equipment that can be used for this form. In this weight range it is possible to produce the most accurate casts.

If the feeder weighs more than indicated on the test, this may lead to breakage of the fishing rod while fishing. Too little weight of the equipment will not allow you to throw it far enough.

To take into account the requirements of the test, you need to add another 20-50 g to the weight of the feeder itself. This takes into account the volume of its internal space. The more spacious the feeder, the more complementary foods it will hold. It is allowed to exceed the upper limit of the test by 20 g. Otherwise, the structure of the rod may change. Fishing with such a form can be inconvenient.

Form

Feeders may differ in shape. Existing varieties can be divided into two large groups. These are square and round designs. This figure is determined in the cross section of the product. Previously, triangular feeders were used. However, today they have almost completely disappeared from use.

It is also worth considering that previously there was an opinion among fishermen that square feeders were more stable in the current. Today, many years of experience in using such gear have shown that there is no big difference. The choice depends on the preferences of the fisherman himself. In the current they successfully catch fish with both types of feeders.

Moreover, over time, fishermen still come to the conclusion that round, cone feeders are a little better. They are easier to reel ashore without creating additional load on the reel. They float up faster when the line moves. This contributes to fewer snags of the tackle on uneven bottoms or seaweed.

How to choose tackle?

When choosing the best feeder feeders for the current, you should take into account the recommendations of experts. They highlight several of the most effective equipment configurations that are most suitable for such conditions. These include:

• metal mesh with lead plate;
• semi-closed feeders;
• structures with spikes or hooks;
• semicircular feeders with a flat base.

It is worth noting that all of the listed types of structures intended for strong currents must be made of metal. Plastic products, even in the presence of dense, heavy bait, are not able to remain in one place in the reservoir. They will be carried away by the current, which reduces the effectiveness of fishing.

Metal feeders with lead plate

The ideal option for fishing in currents are products with a lead plate. The mesh for feeder feeders of this type is large. Most often it has the shape of a flattened cylinder. A lead plate is soldered to one side of such a product. Its weight is at least 50 g.

The presented version of the equipment is attached to the main thread using a nylon leash. The bottom of such a feeder is covered with a metal plate with perforations. Its top is open to allow you to put bait inside.

Thanks to this design, the equipment is securely held at the bottom of the reservoir. The feeder quickly goes down after casting. The side to which the plate is attached weighs more. Therefore, it is the lower part of the feeder, with which it adheres to the bottom.

This shape allows the bait to quickly leave the mesh container, spreading with the current in the reservoir. In the direction of the flow, a “path” of nutrients appears. They arouse the fish's interest. The mixture is washed out of the container quite quickly. This can be both an advantage and a disadvantage. At the beginning of fishing, this feature is an advantage of such feeders. However, some types of fish can quickly get fed up and stop showing interest in the bait.

Semi-closed structures

Feeder feeders for strong currents can have a semi-closed design. This significantly slows down the rate at which the bait is washed out. This type of feeder is more suitable for catching bleak or roach. After intensive feeding of the fishing spot, you need to change the feeder to a semi-closed container.

The walls of this structure are also made of large metal mesh. However, one side of it is closed with a plug (can be removable or non-removable). There is also a piece of lead attached to the side. Due to the partially closed design, the windage of such gear increases. Therefore, it is worth choosing semi-closed type feeders that are heavier than conventional products with a metal mesh and lead plate.

Designs with spikes

Grouser feeders for strong currents are very popular today. It can be either an open or semi-closed design. It also contains a lead plate. However, its surface is distinguished by the presence of special spikes.

Thanks to the presence of lugs, such a feeder is firmly fixed to the bottom of the reservoir. Even a strong current is unable to carry it away. However, the scope of application of the presented equipment is limited. It cannot anchor well on a rocky bottom. The lugs perform their intended function only on a sandy or muddy bottom.

At the same time, in the reservoir where such a feeder is thrown, there should be no snags or dense vegetation. Otherwise, it will be difficult to get the equipment out of the reservoir. More often than other structures, it remains on the bottom, breaking the main fishing line or leash.

Semicircular feeder

Feeder feeders for strong currents can have a semicircular shape. They consist of a metal mesh. Also, similar structures can be made in the form of a spring. The bottom of this feeder is flattened. A lead plate is attached here.

The weight of such equipment may vary. Typically, the weight of such a structure without bait varies between 45-50 g. This is a fairly small weight for a structure designed for currents. However, its good fixation at the bottom is achieved by increasing the area of ​​the flattened base. The plate of this feeder is flat. It can be quite heavy.

The hemisphere of the body creates resistance to the flow of water. This also has a positive effect on the strength of maintaining the course of the feeder in the current. Moreover, such structures are easier to get out of the river. They float up faster when winding the fishing line onto the reel.

Homemade designs

Many fishermen prefer to create strong currents. This is quite an interesting process. To make one of the structures listed above, you will need to prepare suitable materials and tools. The first step is to prepare the lead. Its weight must be chosen in accordance with the strength of the current on the river.

The mesh can be made from the corresponding part of the car's oil filter. You will also need thin stainless steel wire and cardboard for the job. Lead is poured into a metal container. You should also prepare a container with sand.

A number of tools should also be prepared. You will need metal scissors and screws with wide heads (for metal). You will also need a screwdriver for this work.

Since lead is a material unsafe for human health, it can only be melted outdoors or in a very well-ventilated area. Otherwise, you can be poisoned by the fumes of this metal.

When considering how to make a donk with a feeder, you should take into account a few tips from fishermen. To smelt lead, you will need to take a small metal container. The base of the feeder can be made from a tin can. If desired, you can use old metal or tin containers.

To give the feeder its shape, you can use a regular matchbox. If its size is not suitable, a form is created from cardboard. However, it is worth considering that its height should not exceed 1 cm. Moreover, the length and width of the form may be different.

At the preparatory stage, the design should include a sealed ring. It is made from metal wire. The swivel and fishing line will cling to this ring. To do this, cut a piece of wire approximately 30 mm long. It is folded in half. One of the smaller sides of the cardboard box needs to be pierced with wire. Inside it, the “mustaches” are straightened. After this, the cardboard form must be buried in sand so that all its surfaces are covered with it.

Making a feeder

Having prepared everything you need, you can consider how to make a donk with a feeder. Most often, the sinker is made of lead. However, you can also take the plates from a car battery. They need to be thoroughly cleaned.

Lead must be melted in a prepared metal container. When it melts, the contents are poured into a cardboard box located in the sand. The material must harden. This happens after a few minutes and you can take out the finished plate. It is simply removed from the mold.

The body of this product is most often made of a material such as an automobile oil filter grille. The cylinder is cut lengthwise. Then a strip of mesh is cut out. Its width is equal to the length of the lead blank. The length of the strip is usually made about 10 cm or a little more. When cutting the mesh with metal scissors, you need to make sure that the edges are smooth. Otherwise, the line will constantly break when fishing for fish. Next, the mesh is rolled into a cylinder. The round holes on both sides should line up.

Completion of installation

When considering how to make a feeder feeder, you should consider in detail the procedure for completing its installation. You need to install a self-tapping screw into the rolled mesh. With its help, the body is screwed to the lead plate. If the screw goes through the lead plate, the excess must be cut off with a hacksaw.

After this, the feeder can be put on the tackle. If necessary, its bottom can be made blind or perforated. The bottom may be plastic. This plug is screwed to the mesh using stainless steel wire.

Having considered how to choose feeder feeders for strong currents, as well as creating them yourself, you can equip your bottom tackle correctly. In strong currents, the equipment will not be carried away to the side, which will increase the catchability of the feeder.

 

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