Two-seater homemade monoplane - parasol "persistent. How I made real airplanes DIY four-seater airplane

In order to make a paper airplane, you will need a rectangular paper sheet, which can be either white or colored. If desired, you can use notebook, photocopier, newspaper or any other paper that is available.

It is better to choose the density of the base for the future aircraft closer to medium, so that it flies far and at the same time it is not too difficult to fold (on paper that is too thick, it is usually difficult to fix the folds and they turn out uneven).

Folding the simplest airplane figurine

Beginning origami lovers should start with the simplest airplane model, familiar to everyone from childhood:

For those who were unable to fold the plane according to the instructions, here is a video master class:

If you got tired of this option back in school and you want to expand your paper airplane making skills, we’ll tell you how to step by step complete two simple variations of the previous model.

Long-haul aircraft

Step-by-step photo instructions

  1. Fold a rectangular sheet of paper in half along the larger side. We bend the two upper corners to the middle of the sheet. We turn the resulting corner “valley”, that is, towards ourselves.

  1. We bend the corners of the resulting rectangle towards the middle so that a small triangle looks out in the middle of the sheet.

  1. We bend the small triangle upward - it will fix the wings of the future aircraft.

  1. We fold the figure along the axis of symmetry, taking into account that the small triangle should remain outside.

  1. We bend the wings on both sides to the base.

  1. We set both wings of the plane at an angle of 90 degrees so that it can fly far.

  1. Thus, without spending a lot of time, we get a long-range airplane!

Folding pattern

  1. Fold a rectangular paper sheet in half along its larger side.

  1. We bend the two upper corners to the middle of the sheet.

  1. We wrap the corners with a “valley” along the dotted line. In the origami technique, a “valley” is the process of bending a section of a sheet along a certain line in the “toward” direction.

  1. Fold the resulting figure along the axis of symmetry so that the corners are on the outside. Be sure to make sure that the contours of both halves of the future airplane coincide. How it will fly in the future depends on this.

  1. We bend the wings on both sides of the plane, as shown in the figure.

  1. Make sure the angle between the airplane's wing and its fuselage is 90 degrees.

  1. The result is such a fast airplane!

How to make an airplane fly far?

Do you want to learn how to properly launch a paper airplane that you just made with your own hands? Then carefully read the rules of its management:

If all the rules are followed, but the model still does not fly as you would like, try improving it as follows:

  1. If the plane constantly strives to soar upward, and then, making a dead loop, sharply goes down, crashing its nose into the ground, it needs an upgrade in the form of increasing the density (weight) of the nose. This can be done by bending the nose of the paper model slightly inward, as shown in the picture, or by attaching a paper clip to the bottom.
  2. If during flight the model does not fly straight as desired, but to the side, equip it with a rudder by bending part of the wing along the line shown in the figure.
  3. If an airplane goes into a tailspin, it urgently needs a tail. Armed with scissors, give it a quick and functional upgrade.
  4. But if the model falls to one side during testing, most likely the reason for the failure is the lack of stabilizers. To add them to the structure, just bend the wings of the aircraft along the edges along the dotted lines indicated.

We also bring to your attention video instructions for making and testing an interesting model of an aircraft that is capable of not only flying far, but also for an incredibly long time:

Now that you are confident in your abilities and have already gotten your hands on folding and launching simple airplanes, we offer instructions that will tell you how to make a paper airplane of a more complex model.

Stealth aircraft F-117 ("Nighthawk")

Bomb carrier

Execution diagram

  1. Take a rectangular piece of paper. Fold the upper part of the rectangle into a double triangle: to do this, bend the upper right corner of the rectangle so that its upper side coincides with the left side.
  2. Then, by analogy, we bend the left corner, aligning the top of the rectangle with its right side.
  3. Through the intersection point of the resulting lines, we make a fold, which ultimately should be parallel to the smaller side of the rectangle.
  4. Along this line, fold the resulting side triangles inward. You should get the figure shown in Figure 2. Draw a line in the middle of the sheet at the bottom, similar to Figure 1.

  1. We designate a line parallel to the base of the triangle.

  1. We turn the figure over to the reverse side and bend the corner towards ourselves. You should get the following paper design:

  1. Again we shift the figure to the other side and bend two corners up, after first bending the upper part in half.

  1. Turn the figure over and bend the corner up.

  1. We fold the left and right corners, circled in the figure, in accordance with picture 7. This scheme will allow you to achieve the correct bending of the corner.

  1. We bend the corner away from ourselves and fold the figure along the middle line.

  1. We bring the edges inward, again fold the figure in half, and then on itself.

  1. In the end, you will end up with a paper toy like this - a bomb carrier plane!

Bomber SU-35

Razorhawk fighter

Step-by-step execution scheme

  1. Take a piece of rectangular paper, bend it in half along the larger side and mark the middle.

  1. We bend two corners of the rectangle towards ourselves.

  1. Bend the corners of the figure along the dotted line.

  1. Fold the figure crosswise so that the acute angle is in the middle of the opposite side.

  1. We turn the resulting figure over to the reverse side and form two folds, as shown in the figure. It is very important that the folds are not folded towards the midline, but at a slight angle to it.

  1. We bend the resulting corner towards ourselves and at the same time turn forward the corner, which after all the manipulations will be on the back side of the layout. You should end up with a shape as shown in the picture below.

  1. We bend the figure in half away from ourselves.

  1. We lower the wings of the airplane along the dotted line.

  1. We bend the ends of the wings a little to obtain the so-called winglets. Then we straighten the wings so that they form a right angle with the fuselage.

The paper fighter is ready!

Gliding Hawk Fighter

Manufacturing instructions:

  1. Take a rectangular piece of paper and mark the middle by folding it in half along the larger side.

  1. We bend the two upper corners of the rectangle inward towards the middle.

  1. We turn the sheet over to the reverse side and fold the folds towards ourselves towards the center line. It is very important that the upper corners do not bend. You should get a figure like this.

  1. Fold the top of the square diagonally towards you.

  1. Fold the resulting figure in half.

  1. We outline the fold as shown in the figure.

  1. We fill the rectangular part of the fuselage of the future airplane inside.

  1. Bend the wings down along the dotted line at a right angle.

  1. The result is a paper airplane! It remains to see how it flies.

F-15 Eagle fighter

Airplane "Concorde"

Following the given photo and video instructions, you can make a paper airplane with your own hands in a few minutes, playing with which will be a pleasant and entertaining pastime for you and your children!


Probably every adult in our country knows how to make a paper airplane. After all, this simple toy, originally from childhood, invariably delights and amazes with its ability to fly. Before the dominance of tablets and other gadgets, it was ordinary paper airplanes that delighted boys of all ages during recess.

How many schemes for assembling this toy do you know? Did you know that from an ordinary sheet of A4 paper, you can fold many different types of aircraft, including long- and far-flying ones, as well as military models?

Are you already intrigued? You can start folding airplanes right now. After all, all you need for this is paper, desire, a little patience and our diagrams. Let's fly!

The simplest diagrams of a basic aircraft model

Before moving on to complex models, let's brush up on the basics of aircraft construction. We bring to your attention the 2 easiest ways to fold an airplane.

Using the first scheme, it is easy to get a universal airplane familiar from childhood. It does not have any special takeoff and landing characteristics, but folding it is not difficult even for a child. An adult can complete the assembly in just a minute.

If even the first scheme seemed too complicated to you, use the simplified method. It allows you to get the desired result as quickly as possible.


He's in the video:

An airplane that flies for a long time

Every child’s dream is a long-flying airplane. And now we will help you make it a reality. Using the diagram provided, you can fold a model that differs in flight duration.

Remember that flight performance is affected by the size of your aircraft.

Excess weight, which means the length of the wings, prevents the plane from flying. That is, a glider must have short, wide wings. Another friend of planning is the absolute symmetry of the model.

You need to throw it not forward, but upward. In this case, it will stay in the sky for a long time, smoothly descending from a height.


Find answers to the remaining questions and all the subtleties of folding a paper glider in the step-by-step video tutorial.

Circuits that provide fast flight

Do you want to take part in an aircraft model competition? They are easy to arrange at home. Just make high-speed airplanes out of paper - and you can set your own records.


Step-by-step following our photo instructions is the key to success. A number of general recommendations will also help beginning paper aviation enthusiasts.

  1. To improve flight performance, use only a completely flat sheet of paper. Ideal for regular office printers. Any bruises and folds will repeatedly worsen the aerodynamic properties of the model.
  2. Iron all folds with a ruler to make them clearer.
  3. Sharp nose of an airplane increases its speed, but at the same time range decreases flight.


Ready-made crafts can be painted with the children. This exciting activity will allow you to turn a folded piece of paper into a real attack aircraft or an unusual fighter.


Approach creating your models like a science experiment. The speed and ease of assembling origami airplanes allows you to analyze their flight and make the necessary changes to the design.


Be sure to check out the video tutorials on how to create fast paper airplanes to avoid annoying mistakes and learn from the experience of others.

Paper long-range fighter

Describing this aircraft model, many enthusiastically promise that it will be able to fly 100 meters and call it a super-airplane. At the same time, they are not at all embarrassed that the officially registered record for the flight range of a paper airplane is only 69 m 14 cm.

However, doubts aside. In any case, such a cool handsome man is worthy of you working on his creation. For this craft, stock up on a sheet of A4 paper (you can take thick colored paper to make the airplane as beautiful as possible), unlimited patience and accuracy. If your goal is a realistic fighter, take your time assembling it and follow the photo instructions step by step.

There is also a video at your disposal from which you will learn how to properly assemble a paper fighter plane that stays in the air for a long time.

A model that features stable flight

A paper airplane takes off and immediately begins to fall, or instead of a straight trajectory it writes arcs. Does this sound familiar to you?

Even this children's toy has certain aerodynamic properties. This means that it is the duty of all beginning aircraft builders to approach the construction of a paper model with full responsibility.

We invite you to fold another cool airplane. Thanks to its blunt nose and wide deltoid wings, it will not go into a tailspin, but will delight you with a beautiful flight.


Do you want to perfectly master all the intricacies of building this glider? Check out the detailed and accessible video tutorial. After a powerful charge of inspiration, you will definitely want to fold an airplane with your own hands that will flutter like a bird.

The corn plane is an original craft for young aircraft modelers

Do you have a growing boy who already loves making things, gluing and cutting? Give him a little time - and together you can make a small model of a corn-crop airplane. It will definitely bring a lot of joy: first from joint creativity, and then from fun with a toy you made with your own hands.


For work you will need the following materials:

  • colored paper;
  • double-sided colored cardboard;
  • Matchbox;
  • scissors;
  • PVA glue.
The process of creating a toy is as simple as possible: forget about exact drawings and the need to first download and then print a complex template. Under your guidance, even a small child can build his first plane.

First of all, cover the matchbox with colored or white paper. Cut a strip of cardboard 3 cm wide. Half of its length will correspond to the length of the aircraft fuselage. Fold the strip in half and glue it to the box.


Cut out two identical rounded wings, their width should be slightly larger than the width of the box.

Glue the wings to the plane. You can entrust this to your little helper; he will be happy about such an important mission and will complete everything well and thoroughly. Cut and glue a rectangle to the front to hide the box.


Cut two elongated ovals for the tail of the plane and a strip for the vertical part. It needs to be folded as shown in the photo.


Glue the blanks to the tail of the corn plant. The resulting cardboard masterpiece remains to be decorated according to your wishes. You can glue stars or small pictures to it. A propeller made from thin strips of paper would be a good addition.

Such a wonderful airplane can be taken to kindergarten as a craft or to please dad on February 23rd.

Video bonuses

Do you want to get a plane that can not only take off high, but also return back to your hands? Do you think this can't happen? But you are wrong.

Tireless experimental craftsmen have developed a design for an amazing aircraft - boomerang.

With it, you can show your friends a stunning trick: a launched airplane will obediently fall right into your hands every time. To become known as the master of paper airplanes, check out our video - you will definitely succeed.

It would seem that all the paper airplane samples have already been reviewed and tested in practice, but we still have something to surprise you with. We invite you to watch a video lesson on creating a realistic glider plane.

You don't even need origami folding skills, you just cut out the outline from paper. This model has excellent flight characteristics, and the whole secret lies in... ordinary plasticine. Watch the video, be surprised and amazed.

Creating various paper airplanes is not only a wonderful activity that allows you to drive away boredom and put away the ubiquitous gadgets. It develops intelligence, accuracy and fine motor skills. That is why it is so useful to include this type of activity in the program of joint leisure with children.

Perhaps the first unsightly model will be your child’s first step towards a serious interest in aircraft modeling. And it is in your family that a brilliant designer of passenger airliners or new jet fighters will grow up. Anything is possible. There is no point in looking too far into the future, but devoting an hour or two to folding paper airplanes is definitely worth it.

Man never lost his desire to fly. Even today, when traveling by plane to the other end of the planet is a completely common thing, you want to assemble at least the simplest aircraft with your own hands and, if you don’t fly yourself, then at least fly in first person using a camera, for this they use unmanned vehicles. We will look at the simplest designs, diagrams and drawings and, perhaps, make our old dream come true...

Requirements for ultra-light aircraft

Sometimes emotions and the desire to fly can overcome common sense, and the ability to design and correctly carry out calculations and plumbing work is not taken into account at all. This approach is fundamentally wrong, and therefore, several decades ago, the Ministry of Aviation prescribed general requirements for home-made ultra-light aircraft. We will not present the entire set of requirements, but will limit ourselves to only the most important ones.

  1. A homemade aircraft must be easy to control, easy to pilot during takeoff and landing, and the use of unconventional methods and systems for controlling the aircraft is strictly prohibited.
  2. If an engine fails, the aircraft must remain stable and ensure safe gliding and landing.
  3. The aircraft's run-up before take-off and lift-off from the ground is no more than 250 m, and the take-off speed is at least 1.5 m/s.
  4. The forces on the control handles are in the range of 15-50 kgf, depending on the maneuver being performed.
  5. The clamps of the aerodynamic steering planes must withstand an overload of at least 18 units.



Requirements for the design of an aircraft

Since an aircraft is a high-risk vehicle, when designing the aircraft structure, the use of materials, steels, cables, hardware components and assemblies of unknown origin is not allowed. If wood is used in the structure, it must be free of visible damage and knots, and those compartments and cavities in which moisture and condensation can accumulate must be equipped with drainage holes.

The simplest version of a motorized aircraft is a monoplane with a pulling motor propeller. The scheme is quite old, but time-tested. The only drawback of monoplanes is that in emergency conditions it is quite difficult to leave the cockpit; the monowing gets in the way. But the design of these devices is very simple:

  • the wing is made of wood according to a two-spar design;
  • welded steel frame, some use riveted aluminum frames;
  • combined or full linen cladding;
  • closed cabin with a door operating according to an automobile circuit;
  • simple pyramidal chassis.

The drawing above shows a Malysh monoplane with a 30-horsepower gasoline engine, take-off weight is 210 kg. The plane reaches a speed of 120 km/h and has a flight range of about 200 km with a ten-liter tank.

Construction of a braced high-wing aircraft

The drawing shows a single-engine high-plane Leningradets, built by a group of St. Petersburg aircraft modelers. The design of the device is also simple and unpretentious. The wing is made of pine plywood, the fuselage is welded from steel pipe, and the skin is classic linen. Wheels for the landing gear are from agricultural machinery so that it is possible to carry out flights starting from unprepared soil. The engine is based on the design of the MT8 motorcycle engine with 32 horsepower, and the take-off weight of the device is 260 kg.

The device proved to be excellent in terms of controllability and ease of maneuvering and was successfully operated for ten years and took part in rallies and competitions.

All-wood aircraft PMK3

The all-wood PMK3 aircraft also showed excellent flight qualities. The plane had a peculiar shape of the nose, a grounded landing gear with small-diameter wheels, and the cabin had a car-type door. The aircraft had an all-wood fuselage covered with canvas and a single-spar wing made of pine plywood. The device is equipped with a water-cooled Vikhr3 outboard motor.

As you can see, with certain skills in design and engineering, you can not only make a working model of an airplane or a drone, but also a completely full-fledged simple aircraft with your own hands. Be creative and dare, have a good flight!

Introduction

I was prompted to create my first plane by a simple lack of money and a desire to learn how to fly. Since the Chinese plane given to me by my girlfriend was repaired an endless number of times and, in the end, fell into a condition beyond repair, and there was not enough money to buy a new one, the decision was made to build my own. Moreover, on the modelworld.ru store forum, I was advised to do just that. Initially I tried to copy the fuselage of my Chinese aircraft, but building an aircraft requires at least some basic knowledge. Therefore, it is better to have at hand a manual already written by a more experienced designer. And, while still crawling on the Internet in search of a suitable aircraft, I came across the article “ParkFlyer 2 or our answer to Piper and Cessn” by Evgeniy Rybkin (link). A very good option for me: high-wing, which means easier and more predictable to control; I am also glad that the aircraft is domestic, since our aircraft are practically not represented in this class.

I read the article, and although there is a slightly different manufacturing method, I decided to build according to this manual. True, if we compare both options, then only the name of the aircraft will be common - after all, Evgeny Rybkin’s description is more suitable for those who already have experience in building models and have the necessary materials and tools. In some ways, my example looks like "building an airplane in unfavorable conditions." Therefore, the models differ in appearance (Yak-12 aircraft by Evgeniy Rybkin - on the left, My version of the Yak-12 aircraft - on the right):

The construction of my plane was carried out more intuitively than scientifically: no calculations were made, no engine was selected, but what was available was stuck in. The remoteness of the city in which I live has an effect - the only model store I know of is more than 100 km away, and in our construction stores it’s a real problem to buy a normal ceiling and good glue. Therefore, the construction process was constantly hampered by the lack of necessary materials and parts. As a result, something was taken from a crashed Chinese plane, something (and this is most of it) was invented from scrap material.

Since this is my first self-built aircraft, there were some mistakes. Therefore, in the process of creating the aircraft, it was necessary to look for different options for solving problems, and some corrections and upgrades appeared in the process. Therefore, it makes sense to read the article to the end so as not to repeat my mistakes.

I would like to add that this article should not be perceived as a guide to action or instructions for building an aircraft, as I, for example, perceived the article by E. Rybkin. It just describes the process of making a parkflyer by a beginner in the field of aircraft construction, practically from improvised means. But, if you are building your first plane, and you do not have the opportunity to get hold of branded parts, then, I hope, some points will be useful to you. In general, go for it, and everything will work out for you!

Materials and tools

In principle, I didn’t spend that much material on this plane. Considering that some components and parts were redone several times, trying to achieve a more accurate match, the amount of materials wasted is minimal. I spent the most time because due to work I could only work on the plane in the evenings.

The article by E. Rybkin describes the manufacture of an aircraft from PS-60 foam plastic. There, a special machine is used to cut it, where the role of a knife is played by a heated nichrome (maybe I’m wrong in the name) wire. Due to the lack of this device, I decided to make the model entirely from the ceiling. I didn’t have more accessible material at that time. I used ceilings from different manufacturers, different colors, but the same parameters: 500*500 mm, the same density, 3 mm thick, and it must look like a “Doshirak box.” It took me nine sheets for the plane. When buying a ceiling in a store, buy a bottle of ceiling tile adhesive. I used Master glue. As it turned out later, this is an analogue of the widely known Titan glue. In general, ask the seller, he will tell you.

Then we go to a stationery store and buy 30 cm and 50 cm wooden rulers there. I used 30 cm long rulers as ribs in the wing and for the rigidity of the fuselage. As practice has shown, for the rigidity of the fuselage it is better to use a 50 cm ruler - they are thicker. There, I bought colored tape to cover the model. Due to the limited assortment, I had to take white, blue and orange colors. I was looking for black tape to imitate glass, but couldn’t find it. But our stationery store sells knitting needles. I took four pieces of 2 mm and two of 3 mm. In principle, you can do without 3 mm spokes - I used them as a spacer between the wing and the fuselage, but the spokes are quite heavy, after several dashing turns they fell out, and I had to replace them with plastic tubes. If you do not have a ready-made motor frame, as in my case, then you will also need a sheet of plywood 3 mm thick and approximately 200 * 200 mm in size.

The tools I used: a utility knife with a replaceable blade, scissors, a gel pen, an awl and a 3mm Phillips screwdriver, a set of pins and, of course, rulers.

"Filling"

E. Rybkin’s article contains a lot of calculations. And, based on these calculations, the engine unit and other electronic components are selected. This is the right approach when creating a serious aircraft. Perhaps next time I build, I'll use this method. At the same time, I proceeded from what I had available. And I had the following: Futaba 6EXA equipment with a receiver, two Chinese motors, with rear and front mounting, a 30A regulator, two servos weighing 8 g and a force of 1.3 kg, hogs taken from a Chinese plane, two propellers measuring 10 * 7 and 8*4 with spinner and a Chinese battery with 8.4 volts and a capacity of 650mAh.

Drawing

I downloaded the drawings there, in E. Rybkin’s article and printed the sheets on a printer.

Gluing is very simple - there are marks on the sheets that you just need to align to get the correct ones, without shifting the lines. To transfer an image to the ceiling, you can use two methods. The first is to fix the sheet on the ceiling with pins and pierce it along the contour with a thin awl. Then, for clarity, you can connect the holes made on the ceiling with a pencil, or you can simply cut them with a sharp knife. On straight sections, it is enough to make several punctures, but on curves, the more often the punctures are, the more accurate the transfer will be. The second method is suitable if the drawing is printed on an inkjet printer. To transfer, lightly moisten the tile, attach the drawing and iron it on a flat surface with a warm iron. The image should remain on the foam. The main thing is not to overdo it with the temperature and not melt the ceiling.

When placing a drawing, it is worth remembering that ceiling tiles have different bending strengths. This can be easily checked by bending the sheet in different directions. This applies to the wing, since my halves of the left and right sides were placed diagonally, from one corner to the other. This made it possible to avoid gluing the fuselage from several ceiling sheets.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the top and bottom of the plane are given in halves, and they are of different sizes. To trace the lines correctly, you must first draw one half, and then make its mirror image. I divided the upper part into two sections - the front one goes from the nose of the car to the leading edge of the wing; rear from end to trailing edge.

The wing profiles, as well as the internal frames in the drawing turned out to be smaller than we needed. Therefore, you will have to make them yourself.

Fuselage

After the bottom and sides of the fuselage are cut out, we mark on them where the frames will be located. To keep things simple, I transferred almost all the locations of the frames from the drawing.

With the exception of "A" and "B". I decided to use these two frames as a motor mount. Since I had two motors with different mounts, it was decided to make the motor mount universal for motors with front and rear mounts, reducing the distance between the frames so that both motors would fit. Subsequently, this arrangement was very useful - the initially installed motor turned out to be too weak.

The motorama was made from two 3mm thick plywood plates and two pieces of a ruler. Also, for strength and adjustment of the inclination of the plates, I added two corners at the base. In frame “B” or in the rear wall of the motor mount, do not forget to cut holes for the output of the motor wires to the regulator. The entire structure was glued together with epoxy resin. Initially I wanted to make a “crooked” frame, so that later I wouldn’t have to bother with slopes down and to the right. But on the forum of the website modelsworld.ru they dissuaded me in time and advised me to tilt the motor by placing washers under the base. Looking ahead, I will say that the structure turned out to be very durable - after several strong frontal impacts on the ground, the front wall burst at the place where the engine was mounted. The second option, when the frame itself is purchased, and the base is made of foam, I will not consider here, since this option has not yet been flight tested. And there is nothing complicated there: a foam base is made, reinforced with rulers for a ready-made motor mount.

You also need to think about where and how the “filling” will be located: servos, battery compartment, receiver and regulator.

For the regulator, I made a small podium from the same packaging foam, making a recess in it slightly thicker than the regulator itself, where I pasted two strips of double-sided tape. This was done for more comfortable work with wires when connecting and for greater safety of the regulator.

Immediately after the podium, on the bottom, I placed a power element for the chassis, again made from a ruler. The chassis will be screwed into it.

For the battery compartment, I used blocks of packing foam adjusted to the size of the battery and a ruler as frame “B” (before gluing, it is better to wrap the ruler with tape a couple of times, otherwise the battery will break if dropped). The compartment turned out to be universal - it can successfully accommodate both a Ni-Cd battery and a Li-Po battery. Moreover, there is enough space there to adjust the balancing by moving the battery. I also had a receiver there.

Immediately behind the battery compartment in front of frame "D" I placed the servo machine for the rudder and elevator. A styrofoam podium was also made for them, in which niches were cut out for cars. I glued strips from a ruler to the places where the fastening screws would be screwed.

Then I glued the frames “D” and “E”, having previously cut out grooves in them for reinforcing the sides of the fuselage. Also in the frame “D” a hole was cut for the rudder rods. In the photo above the hole is a circle, but I had to abandon that shape and make it square and cut off the top. That is, it turned out like an inverted letter “P”. This design turned out to be more practical.

When planning the plane, I thought of making the wings removable, inserted on spokes on the left and right sides, respectively. But, having already made this design, I realized its weaknesses. Firstly, we would have to think through access to the internal compartments. Secondly, in the event of an impact, most likely, the attachment points for the wings would simply be torn out of the fuselage. Therefore, I decided to make the wing fastening classic for such models - removable, with elastic bands.

In the picture, the glued rulers are what I did originally. The subsequent cutout for the wing is shown in red; blue - power elements from rulers; yellow - the approximate location of the holes for the sticks on which the elastic bands will be attached. The cut will depend on the shape of the wing. Of course, it is better to make such a cutout right away, when it is possible to attach both halves to each other, so that the result would be the same on both sides. In principle, I removed the upper part of the already glued and covered fuselage - it turned out not bad. But all the same, it is advisable to glue the bottom and sides after the wing has been made and the seats for it have been cut out in the sides.

Now, having already flown the finished model, I came to the conclusion that the rear power element is not necessary, since the frames and tape covering at the rear are quite enough. But if you are worried about strength, you can make it.

Since the bottom of the side does not have a straight shape, I did the gluing as follows: first I glued the central part, fixing the position of the bottom, side and frames with pins; after the glue had dried, I also glued the nose part; and finally glued the tail section. I glued the motor frame to the sides using epoxy resin.

After gluing, I got the following:

In the lower part, in front of frame “B”, on both sides I glued two plastic spare parts from the spokes onto epoxy, with the holes facing outwards. They come with knitting needles and are dressed at the ends. The wing struts will be inserted into these holes.

In the very corner of the back of the case, I placed a piece of foam. The rudder will be “stuck” into it. The upper part of the fuselage consists of two halves: bow and stern. After switching to the construction of an aircraft with wing fastenings on elastic bands, there was no longer a need to make the nose part with an approach to the wing. The photo shows with a dotted line where the cut should be made.

Before installing the rear upper section, it is necessary to place the steering gears and rods (bowdens) inside the fuselage. Since my rudder rod came out exactly through the rear fuselage cover, I had to make a small hole in it (the cover) for the bowden. I made another hole in the rear of the left side for the elevator rod.

The fuselage was covered with white tape. I didn’t encounter any difficulties here. But making the applications took some time.

To imitate the cabin windows, I made templates from cardboard. Then I simply placed them on blue tape, outlined them and cut them with a utility knife.

The blue stripe was made from a strip of tape. I applied the tape directly to the fuselage, marked it, ran a knife along the markings and removed the excess. But it was a big mistake to cut the blue stripe in place, on the fuselage. After hitting the ground, the ceiling burst exactly in the place where the cuts were, although when cutting, I tried to touch the foam as little as possible.

The inscriptions are printed on a printer, trimmed and pasted on transparent tape.

Elevators and rudder

There were no difficulties in making the steering wheels themselves. Problems arose during their installation - it was necessary to achieve an even installation so as not to experience problems during flights.

When making the elevator, it must be taken into account that the jumper connecting the two halves is quite small and requires reinforcement. I didn’t immediately pay attention to this, for which I was punished: in flight, this jumper broke, despite covering it with tape, and the RV acted like an aileron. The result is several barrels and land. You can strengthen it with a thin strip of ruler glued to glue, and also slightly increase the size of this area. There are also more practical options for amplification than I used. For example, carbon pipes. After strengthening, cover with tape. And one more important point: after covering, do not heat it! The adhesive tape already holds quite firmly, and if you start heating it, the stabilizer will most likely move, as happened in my case. I had to make a new one. The same applies to the rudder. The elevator was leveled using struts made from thin spokes. There were no problems when gluing it into the fuselage, so I see no point in describing it in detail.

But there were problems with the rudder - I didn’t want to install it straight. For gluing into the fuselage I used rod ends glued to the spokes.

But this was not enough, and it was necessary to install supports from rulers. Later, I hid the supports, as well as the elevator reinforcements, under white tape so that they would not be conspicuous.

Wings

The most problematic part for me during production was the wing. I redid it several times, trying to achieve the same results on both wings. It turned out different all the time. Lack of experience affected.

An important point when placing the wing drawing on a sheet of ceiling tiles will be the choice of the direction of bending of the ceiling itself, as mentioned above. When marking the wing, we will need to make its mirror image with an indent slightly larger than the front height of the rib. That is, we outline one half, retreat the required distance (about 20 mm), turn the wing pattern over and outline the mirror image. In my case, the indentation was about 15 mm and, anyway, it was not enough.

A ruler was used as material for the ribs. Initially, I made an irregularly shaped rib with a sharp forehead, but then, after receiving advice on the forum, I corrected myself. In general, it is advisable to make a profile as in the drawing, but with dimensions suitable for our wing. There were four ribs on the wing: three on the wide part and one in the middle, between the end of the wide part and the end of the wing.

In the first three ribs, at the same distance, two holes were made for the spokes, which were originally intended as devices for attaching the wing to the fuselage. But even if you make a wing with a top mount, I think you can leave the spokes, as they will give the wing rigidity and prevent it from breaking.

When everything is prepared, we begin to bend the wing. On the Internet you can find many ways to bend ceilings. The essence is the same everywhere - you need to warm it up. I heated it with a heater. And the main thing here is not to rush. Choose a temperature at which it is not too hot, and the sheet bends as it should. Already on the next wings I did this: I took two wooden 50 cm rulers, applied them on both sides and bent (pressed) with the rulers, not with my hands. This was done so that there would be no dents from the fingers. Fixed it when gluing with clothespins and even paper clips. When gluing, when fixing, it is also better to use a flat backing in the form of rulers.

I only realized this when the wing, left to dry until the morning, had dents from clothespins and paper clips.

It so happened that on one wing, the end chord turned out to be 5-7 mm smaller than on the other. Having tortured several sheets of ceiling, I decided to make it simpler. I measured the missing piece, cut it out from scraps and glued it on. After covering with tape, the differences were not visible.

Next, we make a profile of the inner wing wall from a ruler. It is enough to simply attach the wing vertically to a sheet of paper and trace along the contour, and then transfer the resulting contour to a ruler. On this profile I had two rows of holes - the first for the spokes exiting the wing, and the second, slightly lower and slightly to the side for the spokes entering from the opposite wing. When the profiles are cut, glue them onto the ends of the wing, and, after the glue has dried, insert the knitting needles into the holes. It turns out like this:

Then we cut out a rectangular piece of the ceiling, with an approximate overlap of 30-50 mm on the wing. Having evenly positioned the blank on the wing (as in the photo), glue the lower part. After the glue dries, we bend it to the shape of the wing. We try the resulting wing on the fuselage, mark the width and remove unnecessary areas with a knife.

There was even an idea to increase the wing area in this way, but since the plane flew, it was decided to leave everything as it is.

The wing was covered with white tape with an overlap of 3-5 mm. The ends of the wings were orange. I printed the inscriptions on a laser printer, cut them and glued them to transparent tape. I did not resort to using an iron to smooth out unevenness, since a slight overheating could lead to deformation.

I used thick knitting needles as braces. But either I made a mistake in my calculations, or the knitting needles turned out to be a rather heavy material; in flight, after several maneuvers, they fell out even after gluing. Perhaps it makes sense to find an easier option. For example, as E. Rybkin suggests, you can use cotton candy tubes or choose an analogue.

To install the struts, I used juice straws in tetra bags, since with their help it is easy to achieve the desired angle for installing the struts. I glued it into the wing using epoxy.

Chassis

For a long time I could not make the chassis because I could not find the appropriate material. But in the end, as always, the stationery store helped - aluminum rulers are what we need. The wheels I used were from a Chinese plane, size 5.

It would be safer to make a structure from one ruler, but I couldn’t find a ruler of suitable length, so I had to use two 15 cm each. I cut off the excess and folded it according to the drawing. Initially I planned to attach it to the fuselage by gluing, but the first tests (I just threw it on the floor) showed that this design is too flimsy. I had to line up the gluing and drill holes for the mounting screws.

Chassis pattern shape

I installed the chassis after wrapping it. Before gluing, I used the method described by E. Rybkin: I wrapped the part that I was going to glue with thread, turn to turn, and then smeared it with glue.

Hood

Initially, when making the hood, I wanted to follow the example described in E. Rybkin’s article, but after several attempts I found this method a little complicated for me. As a result, I decided to make a hood from a strip of ceiling. I cut out a rectangle 70mm wide and about 300mm long, applied it to the nose of the plane and wrapped it. The bottom was glued with tape. An important point here is the correct choice of the direction of bending of the ceiling. In my case, there was no need for heating or other methods used to shape the ceiling. I wanted to use a propeller from a processor cooler as the front of the motor, but I haven’t found the right size yet. This would help solve the engine compartment ventilation problem. For now, I limited myself to sticking printed blinds from the drawing.

Flying

The first flights were without a chassis, without a hood, with a plywood engine frame and spokes as struts. Impatience forced us to go out into the field in a rather noticeable gusty wind.

Checking, alignment. For weight, I glue several five-ruble coins onto the nose. I fly it by hand without a motor - the flight is not far, but smooth, with a slight roll. I decide to fly with a motor. The first flight was lumpy. The plane didn’t want to fly at all - at full throttle it smoothly sank into the grass. The use of an unknown motor had an effect. After the plane “landed” next to a pipe camouflaged in the grass, I decided not to tempt fate and went home to redo the engine installation. It’s good that I initially made the motor mount universal, so the alteration did not take much time. I also decided to install Li-Po instead of the standard battery.

Back in the field. The wind has become even stronger, but this does not stop, although the thought “can it wait?” arises. Check again and take off. Now the picture is different - the plane is flying, gaining altitude, making uncertain turns, but all this is somehow strange: the nose is raised into the wind - the tail is down. In the wind the picture is the opposite - the nose is down, the tail is up. Several times, when turning, I was caught by gusts. I couldn’t turn it out once, so I hit the ground rather hard. A crack has appeared under the blue stripe. But the experiments don’t stop there - we need to find out what’s wrong with the plane. It turned out that during one of the flights the plane suddenly made two barrels and “softly” landed in a puddle. We approached, and everything immediately became clear - the same jumper connecting the halves of the elevator had broken.

Among the damages that day: a dented nose, a crack under the strip, a torn-off knitting needle. A little. We're going home for repairs.

The next morning turned out to be calm and the decision to go appeared immediately. To be honest, I was very worried: after the first flights, it seemed that the plane was poorly assembled and there were a lot of shortcomings and miscalculations somewhere. Ground check and start. And, lo and behold! The plane flies as it should! A climb, a turn, another, I reduce the gas to almost half, but it still flies! There is no limit to delight! The only thing that spoiled the mood a little was that when turning, you have to be very careful with the rolls: if you were a little too lazy, the plane would quickly lose altitude. But it’s very easy to catch, although it adds adrenaline. It is enough to place the rudder in the center, and take the elevator slightly towards you, and the plane goes into horizontal flight. True, I don’t have enough experience and in the end I stuck it in the ground. This time the damage was more significant: the motor mount burst at the places where the bolts were attached, the nose was even more dented, and the ruler holding the battery was broken.

Conclusion

Despite the recent damage, I am very pleased with the plane, although it does not suit the role of a trainer, as originally intended. This was my first independent step into remote aviation. During the construction of this aircraft, I learned a lot, which will undoubtedly be useful to me when building other aircraft.

I would also like to add that testing and refinement continue.

I would like to say a huge thank you to my mother, my girlfriend Masha, for putting up with all the mess that I made at home; Vadik for providing details and ideas; members of the forum forum.modelsworld.ru, especially Barbus for his advice.

Specification:

Length - 685 mm
> wingspan - 960 mm
> weight - 500 g

motor - E-Sky Ek5-0003B 900KV
> regulator - Rich-ESC - 30A
> servo - E-Sky Ek2-0500 weight 8g. Force 1.3 kg
> propeller - 10*7

Equipment - Futaba 6EXA 40Mhz

Author - Evgeniy Valerievich Zhukov. (Terranosaurus)
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Since childhood, I have had a craving for toys. But most of all I was interested in radio-controlled toys. I didn't have these toys when I was a child. You yourself understand that the USSR parents could not afford this. As for amateur radio circles, this also did not happen. And how I wanted it.
When I grew up it became possible to buy any toy. The craving was still strong. But there was no interest in buying a ready-made solution. The main thing is not the toy itself, but to do something yourself. And I decided to make a radio-controlled plane with my own hands.

Required tools and materials:

  • stationery knife
  • glue gun
  • metal ruler
  • scotch
  • foam board

After many looks at different materials and designs, I settled on foam board. Foam cardboard is a surprisingly light and durable (relatively) material. And for an airplane this is simply an ideal material. By the way, and not only for airplanes.
Foam board comes in different diameters, I have seen 0.3, 0.5 and 1 cm

The RuNet is full of DIY aircraft options using other materials. The main thing is the strength and lightness of the material.

I bought several sheets of foam corton 3 mm thick. Size 900 x 700 mm. For a small aircraft, two sheets are enough.

In order for you to make a plane with the correct proportions and for it to obey the laws of aerodynamics, you need to have some knowledge or download drawings on the Internet. I was lazy and missed this moment. My plane turned out to be in the right proportion, but it was not made according to calculations and diagrams. Of course, a radio-controlled airplane does not require calculations like in aircraft manufacturing, but you still need to take some points into account.

Using ready-made sketches, we assemble the plane using a glue gun. Strength corners need to be applied in places. The principle of constructing the aircraft itself is shown in this video. The entire aircraft was built on this principle.

This is what I got from this.

For beauty, I covered the plane with self-adhesive film.

Controls

For aircraft controls, additional parts must be purchased. I usually buy parts from Chinese sites. For me, it’s better to wait 15-25 days rather than overpay a large amount.

Main details:

motor
servo drives (4pcs)
speed controller
battery 11.1 or 7.4 volts

Motor - Mystery Brushless electric motor 13000 rpm (11.1V) ordered on a Chinese website.

The advantage of this motor is that you can use different voltages: 11.1 or 7.4 volts

The speed controller also supports 11.1 or 7.4 volts. I ordered from a Chinese website.

Servo drives are servos. Ordinary small ones. for controlling ailerons, elevator and rudder. in my case I used 4 pieces. 2 for ailerons, 1 for elevator and 1 for rudder.

Aircraft controls:

The controls of an RC plane are the same as those of a real plane. The only difference is the absence of flaps. These small RC toys don't require flaps. But it can be applied.

To control the aircraft, I ordered a 4-channel control panel. A budget option. I bought it on the Aliexpress website for 1300 rubles.
The remote control is sold together with the receiver.

Connecting ailerons from two servos

Connection diagram:
To properly connect the electronics, use the instructions. Basically all receivers are connected the same way.
To connect 2 servos to the ailerons, use the U cable. But you can make this cable yourself.

Connecting Controls to the Receiver

In this case, you need to place the servos so that they move in different directions when moving.
Diagram of connecting electronics to the receiver of a radio-controlled aircraft.

The operation of all controls must be adjusted using testing methods.

While I was testing my plane, I managed to damage 3 propellers. Therefore, you need to take into account the possibility of breakage and purchase more screws.

A little video of my plane.

If my article is useful to you, leave comments and ask questions, I will be happy to answer!

 

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