Making devils with your own hands. The devil jig is a catchy baitless bait for different types of fish. Manufacturing instructions

Jigs are very popular among anglers, especially in winter fishing for many types of fish. Fishermen are especially fond of the jig called “Devil”, which shows a high level of catchability. Many fishermen do not buy such a jig, but quite successfully make it themselves at home, and homemade products sometimes turn out much better than store-bought options.

Features of making jig "Devil"

To make your own “Devil” jig at home, you can use several different methods, among which are the following:

— the process of manufacturing “Devil” without soldering or casting;
— “Devil” using soldering;
- production by casting method.

At the same time, the first method is the simplest and easiest, but it still allows you to get a very effective homemade “Devil” jig as a result; the other methods are somewhat more complicated.

Manufacturing without soldering or casting

In this case, you just need to mount a weight on the tee, finally secure it and paint it. Before doing this, you need to prepare the following set:

— “Drop” sinkers made of silicone;
- tee number 20 or slightly smaller, it should have a long fore-end and thin hooks;
- beads or seed beads;
— pliers and superglue;
- file;
— black waterproof varnish;
- a drill or screwdriver with a thin drill bit, although this tool may not be needed.

We take the necessary sinker, remove it from the tube, while the ring of the tee must be carefully squeezed using pliers so that it can be inserted into the hole of the weight. You can also slightly widen the hole in the weight using a drill bit on a drill or screwdriver.

You should also put a bead or beads on the tee, a weight on top, then you should crimp the lead and fix it at the bottom with superglue. Then we process the workpiece with a file, paint it, and additionally hang beads or any other decorations. Cover with varnish.

Making “Devil” using soldering

The basis is a tee, and in order to make smaller versions of the jig, it is quite difficult to find small hooks for the tee, so you have to solder them yourself. At the same time, the preparation of such a tee is the basis for subsequent versions of the “Devil” manufacturing. In the future, you can use lead pouring or solder on top.

For soldering you will need the hooks themselves, some copper wire, a soldering iron and solder, you will also need either a plug or a drill to hold the hooks; if you need to hang a bead, you should prepare that too.

You should bite off the rings from a pair of hooks, while leaving the ring on the third one. The hooks should be tinned and then secured in the desired position - in the head of a drill or in a piece of cork, having made cuts in advance. Next, the workpiece is wrapped using pre-tinned wire and thoroughly soldered, then processed with a file.

Next, you can solder a copper crown or brass on one side, or solder a couple of lead plates on the sides. If you manually solder tin, the jigs are light and also voluminous; they are simply ideal for fishing at depths of up to five meters without a current. In order to increase the depth of their fishing, you can use winding tungsten or copper wire.

You can also easily solder such a tee into a lead sinker using a pellet or olive sinker. If you solder a couple of pellets, you get a “Devil-Ant” jig.

Making “Devil” by pouring

To make a “Devil” jig using the pouring method, you will need to make a special mold, which is made using scrap materials. You can make such forms from aluminum or using plaster from two halves, and you need to make grooves for the hook.

You can use a very simple casting method - twist a tube out of foil or thick paper, insert a tee into one end, and pour molten lead into the other end. Initially, such a structure should be placed in sand.

Making jig "Devil" Kalachev

To make such a jig, you need to prepare a mold; it can be made from fluoroplastic, extruded with a punch, or cut out manually using a knife. Next, you need to secure it in a cork or school eraser, having previously made slits, three hooks, and a pin for the hole.

We fasten the form in a vice and bring a cork or an eraser with hooks and solder the solder, then you should wait until it cools completely, do not forget to remove the pin. Then we process the resulting jig “Devil” by Kalachev with a file, paint it in the desired color and attach beads or seed beads.

Making a devil jig with your own hands is possible at home. There are various ways. Let's figure it out , how to make a devil for winter fishing using various methods. Store-bought devils often do not meet the requirements of fishermen - either the hooks are incorrect or the body shape is wrong. In principle, there is nothing difficult about making these baits yourself. To make this bait correctly, you need to clearly understand the result that should be obtained. What it should be is described in a special article.

Homemade devils

Globally, all methods of making devils for winter fishing with your own hands can be divided into two large groups:

No soldering or casting;
Soldering;
Filling.

The simplest options can be done literally “on your knees” using a minimum number of tools and technical skills. Other methods are more difficult, you need to get better at them, but the baits made are in no way inferior, and often even superior in catchability to products from fishing stores.

Simple ways

The simplest way is to put a sinker on the tee, fasten it and finish it with painting. To do this you will need:

Set of “Drop” sinkers on silicone;
Tee (small, with a long shank and thin hooks, No. 20 or smaller);
Bead (beads);
Pliers;
Superglue;
Needle file, file;
Waterproof black varnish;
Drill with a thin drill bit (may not be needed).

From the sinkers, select one of the required weight (it is indicated on each one), remove it from the tube. Carefully squeeze the tee ring (so as not to burst) with pliers so that it can fit into the sinker hole. You cannot completely compress the loop, because the fishing line will then be tied to it. If the tee still does not fit, then the hole in the sinker can be carefully flared or drilled out with a drill, after securing it in a vice. We put a bead on the tee, and a sinker on top, crimp the lead and seal it with superglue at the bottom. Next, you need to process the workpiece with a file to the required shape, paint it, and place beads or other decorations on the hooks.

The main feature of making such a feature with your own hands is its simplicity and speed. In the absence of a tee, you can solder it yourself from ordinary hooks of the same size, more on that later. This way you can make other nozzle-free jigs.

Soldering a tee and a few more ways to make devils with your own hands

The basis of the bait when making a homemade devil for winter fishing is a tee. For smaller devils, the correct treble (small thin hooks, long shank) is difficult to find in the store. More often than not you have to solder it yourself. This preparation is the first step for various methods of making a devil in the future. It can be poured into a mold with lead, or solder can be manually soldered on top.

Materials:

Hooks;
Copper wire;
Soldering iron, solder;
Cork or drill (to hold hooks);
Bead (if desired).

We bite off the rings of two hooks, leaving the third. You can bite off all three at the ring, and the fourth, on the contrary, at the bend, and then insert it into the middle between the first three (to get a devil ring. The hooks need to be tinned and secured in the correct position (in the drill head or in the cork (using pre-made cuts) ). Then we wrap the workpiece with tinned wire and solder it. The workpiece can be processed with a file.

Devil's body

All further manipulations depend on variations in the attachment of the devil’s body to the workpiece. You can do this in several ways:

Solder by hand.
Pour through the mold (more about pouring below).
Solder a copper or brass crown on one side (more on this later).
Prepare blanks from a lead plate and solder them on both sides.

When manually soldered (filled) with tin, lighter and more voluminous devils are obtained; they are intended for fishing at depths of up to 5 meters with weak or no current. For greater depth or flow, it is better to use lead. By using copper or tungsten wire and adjusting its quantity, the correct weight is selected. This can also be done by winding tin-lead solder. The workpiece is wound and soldered until the required shape, weight and size are obtained, and then processed with a file.

The tee can be soldered into a lead sinker (olive or pellet). If you do this with two pellets, you will get a devil ant (snowman). Then the devil is processed with a file and painted.

Fill

Pouring a devil with molten lead requires a mold for casting jigs. You can make such a device from scrap materials. Molds for casting jigs are made of pure aluminum without impurities or gypsum. This shape can be made at home by squeezing it out with a punch. It is also necessary to make grooves for the hook on both halves.

The easiest way is a paper tube wound on an object of the required diameter. Likewise, a foil cone. A tee is inserted into one end of the tube, and lead is poured into the other. Before pouring, the entire structure must be placed in sand or bread crumb, rolled out to the state of plasticine. Read more about this in the materials on casting jigs.

Devils with a crown made of non-ferrous metal

To make a bimetallic spinner, you need to make a crown from brass or copper. The crown is made by knocking out a shape on a sheet of metal with a special punch. Punches are turned from metal rods on turning fixtures. The crown is installed in the bread crumb, a tee is fixed on top, and then solder is soldered. When pouring, accordingly, the crown is installed in the mold. Naturally, it must match it in size and configuration.

Devil Kalacheva

Many fishermen claim that the most catchy ones are the devils made by Andrei Kalachev. Their peculiarity is that they are suspended from a fishing line through a hole that runs vertically through the entire body of the jig. The fishing line is passed through it and tied to the hook. In the store, devils with such a connection are practically never found. We present the manufacturing instructions:

Make a mold from fluoroplastic, squeezing it out manually with a punch or knife (one half, production is done by soldering).
Secure three hooks and a pin (for the hole) into the slotted cork (or eraser).
Bring the cork with hooks to the form fixed in a vice, apply solder with a soldering iron, and let it cool slightly.
Remove the workpiece from the mold and remove the pin.
Process the devil with a file, paint it with waterproof paint, and equip it with beads.

Decorations

You need to attach bright elements to the homemade devil, which attract fish and serve as an attack point. There are many ways to do this. The easiest option is to apply a stain on the bottom of the devil with waterproof varnish in red, green or yellow. Hooks can be equipped with beads, cambrics or multi-colored wool. You can attach a large bead directly at the bottom of the body during manufacturing.

Nod for the devil

You can also make the devil's nod with your own hands from lavsan or a clock spring. The nod is made double-conical, that is, it should evenly taper in width and thickness from beginning to end. It is this design that allows the bait to play correctly and the angler to notice the bite in time. The fine-tuning of the rod is done for a specific weight of the devil, so the angler needs to have several already tuned fishing rods. The correct nod body kit for a devil is just below the horizon with a load, 15-20 degrees up without it. The reverse convexity of the lavsan nod is done by passing it between the finger and the nail.

Hello, comrades!

Let's start with the pig mask. The cute Nif-nif is made using absolutely the same principle as... a cat and... an elephant. It looks amazingly like an elephant. It’s not for nothing that there is a fairy tale about this().

Pig or pig mask

So, the pattern will be like this.

By the way, the difficulty will not be in the mask, but in finding cardboard of the right color. I used pink photocopy paper and reinforced it from the inside with masking tape, as well as pink isolon. An ordinary travel rug. And just white isolon (for insulating floors - sold in hardware stores), I blushed it. Someday I’ll tell you about all these cunning ideas. Now let's return to the pig mask.

Attach the pattern to a sheet of A4 cardboard (landscape). It matches the width very clearly. Let's cut out, cut through all the darts, lightly draw the edges of the dart on the forehead, glue it, pinch the bridge of the nose (with a stapler is best).

The forehead is now convex, the nose is moved forward, the eyes are narrowed. We wrap the nose and glue the snout (it is better that the color of the snout is somehow different from the main color of the mask, but not radically, for example, not crimson).

We also glue the free corners of the cheeks to the patch. Ears. Well, the ears are fluffy and very interestingly bent forward, hanging over the eyes. So Naf-naf is ready. Or maybe it’s not a pig, but a pig. Then it’s worth drawing eyelashes and highlighting the blush.

Believe it or not, comrades, but a cute pig mask can easily transform into... a devil, and I would even say an imp. Well, such a character will also come in handy, for example, for caroling or for Halloween.

Schematically they are the same. The pattern is the same, let’s change the color and add horns and a gloomy expression and we’ll get a fiend from hell.

Hi all. My name is Igor.. I caught it for only four days.... Successfully, although there are a lot of questions, but that’s later. As an entry fee, I want to tell you about the methods of making devils from lead and tungsten. I mainly catch bream in the Yauzsky and Ruzsky reservoirs; the size of the devils is rather large. I searched all over the internet and couldn’t find anything useful for making it, nor in stores. I had to strain my brains, fortunately I have quite a lot of experience in making molds from aluminum and plaster. I don’t pretend to be new, what I came up with is mine.

I fish with big devils - for great depths - body length 15 mm, hooks No. 14. according to the international classification. If you can buy good devils for 7-12m in your city, you are in luck. We have a lot of small ones, but not large ones. Our country is large, I think in many regions the situation is similar.

So leaden devils. This one of the manufacturing methods. I make the mold from plaster (it’s faster, it lasts a long time, and I’ve already filled my hand). The model is made of wood. I insert a thin needle into the mold along the axis of the devil. The result is a blank in the form of an olive with a central hole with a diameter of approximately 0.3 mm. From this blank, devils with a hanging tee are very successfully obtained. Thin wire 0.2-0.3 mm, on one side there is a tee ring in a loop with a short twist, we thread the free end of the wire into the casting from the thin end and knit a ring for the fishing line. I fasten the twists with drops of solder. The casting blank can be cut to create a small devil (pictured No. 1).

It's more difficult with a hard tee. We bite off a ring from the tee, clamp it into a drill chuck, tin it with a thin layer and solder a piece of the same wire, remove excess solder. At the end of the casting, using a 1.5 mm drill (thin tee and wire + neat soldering, this diameter is enough for me), I drill a hole to a depth sufficient to recess the forend of the tee. We knit a ring, grab it with a drop of solder (pictured No. 2). This method has a drawback. The devil cannot be pulled out of the fish’s mouth by holding it by the body, the walls where the tee fits are thin and easily torn, I pull it out by the tee with my fingers or mini pliers. The problem, I think, can be solved in two ways.

The first thing that came to my mind was to put a drop of soldering acid and solder into the hole where the tee is recessed. It turned out tightly, but another problem popped up. The material of the imported hooks does not tolerate overheating at all, after this operation the tips of the tee break off with a little effort. I found it from old stocks old, good Kolyubaka ones, there are no problems with them. I tried to experiment, burned them on a gas stove. Domestic, as it should be, after this operation you bend it as you want, imports fall apart!!?? Has anyone encountered this problem? Share. The second option is to put the tee on epoxy, but I haven’t tried it, I didn’t get around to it, and even with these it’s good to catch if you carefully rip it out of the mouth.

Material - lead. I heat the mold at 50-60 degrees. There is no leakage, because The mold is hot and special channels are made in it for the release of air, which displaces the poured lead, called a vent. It comes from the bottom of the recess at an upward angle so that the lead does not leak into the passage.

Mold for casting a devil with a TEE made of aluminum.

More details about the form. To avoid repetition, let’s take the description from the topic as a basis"CHERTIK" - models and production , everything is correctly described there. Now for the nuances.

Regarding the mold material, I took one of the old molds made of duralumin twenty years ago, I once cast small “Uralkas”. So, I couldn’t crush my model of the devil L=15 mm, diameter from 2 to 3.5 mm in a vice even with a meter-long pipe. Fortunately, there was a hydraulic press nearby. I don’t think that someone would have one nearby, just by chance. Use only aluminum!

Because The volume of the extruded mass is quite large, I advise you to mark a place on two halves and select a part of the metal to facilitate extrusion (I will explain separately if it is not clear) and to center the model so that it does not rotate in the initial phase of extrusion.

So, the model is crushed. Let's attach the tee to the mold and determine the place for the grooves on the lower half of the mold (see photo). I cut with a grinder using a cutting wheel.
Then one of the important operations is to select under the top hook, cut with a 3 mm roughing circle. Control the depth so as not to spoil the shape!!!

And finally, we cut the guide pins to 1.5-2 mm (quite enough for centering), it is they that interfere with removing the upper half of the mold. It is better not to chamfer the holes on the mating half (I already had 0.5 mm - not critical).

Now comes the most important part! How to ensure that lead spills into the lower part of the devil. I love narrow devils, the fish like it. BUT! ..If you consider that the diameter in the narrow part is 2 mm, and the thickness of even a thin tee with soldered wire is at least 1.5 mm, the gap for lead flow is zero point four. You need good outlets (see photo) and a high mold temperature, I don’t know which one, I haven’t checked it with sensors, but it’s much higher than 100 degrees. Let me explain a little: when we pour lead, the air must be forced out of the mold. If there is no way out, it will not allow the lead to spill out to the end (the more precise the mold, the more critical).

The first devil poured with a ring on the tee - the lead only reached the ring. There was only one blow, I made a second one, bit off the ring - the result is obvious! If the devil is fatter, there will be fewer problems.

“Devil” is one of the most widely used and effective reelless three-hook jigs, with a body made of lead or tungsten. One of the advantages of this jig is its versatility and ease of use. When playing the devil, you don’t need to accelerate to 300 oscillations per minute, like most nozzle-less jigs; a frequency of 50-150 oscillations is enough. This game with a jig allows you to catch both predatory and peaceful fish.

Often, purchased devils do not fully satisfy the requirements placed on them. At first glance, colorful and neat, after 3-4 successful bites they become unusable. The paint peels off and all the shortcomings of mass production immediately appear.

Making a catchy reelless jig will not take much time, and the result will please you for a long time.

What you need

To make a “devil” you will need the following tools and devices:

Hooks, three of the same size. In addition, there is another hook one size larger with a longer shank.
Thin section copper wire (diameter no more than 0.1 mm).
Drill or screwdriver. You can also use a three-jaw chuck.
Soft lead-tin solder in the form of wire (diameter 1 mm).
Knife.
Needle file.
Nail scissors with pointed tips.
Side cutters.
Solvent (white spirit or nail polish remover).
Fine grit sandpaper.
Nail polish of the required color (mostly light fluorescent tones for greater visibility in the water).
Cambrics of various diameters, or heat-shrinkable couplings.
Gas lighter.

Manufacturing instructions

Let's consider a universal example of making a reelless jig "devil". Let's break our process into 3 stages:

Stage 1 – preparing the base of the jig

From each of the three hooks of the same size, we bite off the ears in the middle of the forearm with side cutters (in equal parts). We clean the surface of the hook from which it was bitten off with a file to remove paint and varnish. We take a larger hook and bite off the long shank, which makes up the main part of the length of the “devil” - the rod.

We clean it from the paintwork. Apply super glue to the resulting rod and glue the stripped hooks one after another. Before the glue sets, we place our structure in the chuck of a drill (screwdriver) to create the symmetry of the future jig. After the glue has dried, the base is ready.

Stage 2 – making the “devil’s body”

Prepare solder and copper wire. We take our base and, without touching the glued hooks, wrap it with double folded copper wire. With each new revolution we increase the pressure. Having wrapped the base with copper, carefully remove the ends of the wire and begin winding the tin-lead solder. You will need about 7 cm of solder.

If it is necessary to make a more voluminous or heavier “devil,” we add a piece of steel or tungsten wire under the copper winding. If you just need to increase the volume of the “body”, then we wind the solder in a second layer.

We cut off a piece from the heat-shrink sleeve, 5 mm wider than the body of the “devil” being made, and pull it onto our structure. Holding the workpiece by the upper eye, carefully heat the heat-shrink sleeve with a lighter until it shrinks completely.

Then we turn the hooks up and continue heating from all sides, melting the solder. The melted solder will fill all the air voids, and rosin will appear where the hooks exit. We finish heating after solder appears in the gap between the hooks, thereby soldering them together. If the heating is not stopped in time, the solder will simply flow out, irreversibly damaging the workpiece.

When the solder has cooled, carefully cut off the heat-shrinkable sleeve from the body of the “devil” with a knife. Having removed the excess, an almost finished jig appears before us. We evaluate the work done: the body should have a smooth shape, while the hooks should have symmetry and be tightly soldered. We remove excess solder with a knife and, if necessary, bring the body to the desired shape using a needle file and sandpaper.

Stage 3 – final processing

Let's start the painting process. The choice of color is a rather complex and controversial issue. When fishing at great depths, it is advisable to use lighter tones of yellow or greenish colors. In shallow water, gray, dark brown and black colors are optimal. In search of the right coloring, we are not afraid to experiment with a variety of color combinations: red-white, black-greenish, gray-golden.

We wait until the varnish dries, and our universal “devil” is ready.

The choice of gear and features of fishing with a homemade “devil”

The choice of gear is important for proper jig fishing. The main link of any tackle is the nod. Its optimal length should be at least 200 mm. Experienced fishermen successfully use a watch spring with an anti-corrosion coating. A nod made from such a spring does not rust and has the necessary rigidity.

The diameter of the spool in the reel is at least 50 mm, otherwise a spiral will form when unwinding the fishing line. The choice of fishing line depends on the depth of the reservoir and the current. At great depths it is better to use a stiff line. It will not get confused during hatching and conveys the bite better.

Basic fishing styles

To start the game, lower the bait to the bottom. To attract the attention of the fish, we tap the bottom 5 times and begin a slow rise with a small amplitude but a fast frequency. Raising it to a height of 40 cm, we make a smooth hook and lower the “devil” back to the bottom. With this style, the bite will not take long to arrive.

The second style of calf is called the pendulum. The nod is in a horizontal position. Having lowered the jig into the hole, we carry out a slow rise, while moving the nod to the right and left (one swing). Having made quick 5-6 swings, we lift by 60-70 cm. Then we repeat everything from the beginning.

For the third style, the nod is placed at an angle of 45°. By lowering the “devil” we make smooth wiring with increased amplitude. Every 20 cm we stop for a 3 second pause. The lift ends with a smooth sweep.

The “devil” is fished with hooks up to No. 4, like a reelless jig. Starting from hook No. 5, bloodworms (maggots) are already placed on one of the hooks.
The depth of use of jigs with medium (No. 3-5) hooks is limited to 5-6 meters.
At a depth of more than 6 meters, reinforced lead or tungsten “devils” with hooks No. 6-8 are used, using various baits (attachments).
Jigs with hooks No. 2.5-3 and yellow (white) cambrics on them are considered universal.

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