Independent trip to Tsarskoye Selo. Director of the Tsarskoye Selo Museum: We will cancel quotas for travel agencies, but this will lead to severe speculation. Why choose this excursion
Catherine Palace... It seems that all the gold in the world is collected in this magnificent summer ceremonial residence of the Russian tsars in Tsarskoye Selo near St. Petersburg. Rastrelli's masterpiece, created more than two and a half centuries ago, amazes the imagination of even our sophisticated contemporaries - be it Russian or foreign - everyone who no longer seems to be surprised by anything. One can only imagine the impression he made on his contemporaries. A real national treasure.
It seems that everything is already known and everything has been written about the Catherine Palace, but just dig... The eternal mystery of the disappearance of the magnificent Amber Room alone is worth something! Now this relic, recreated just over ten years ago, attracts people here. huge amount tourists, and travel agencies in their programs write “Excursion to the Catherine Palace with a visit to the Amber Room.” What injustice! It’s as if the palace is worth absolutely nothing without this reconstructed, recognized masterpiece. Nonsense! He produces indelible impression on all visitors, on some even stronger than the Main Palace of Peterhof. I associate this luxurious baroque building with the dazzling radiance of the sun, gold, amber, lamps...
I had the opportunity to visit the Catherine Palace several times between 2003 and 2009. So I had the honor to see the Amber Room. Like many, she made an indelible impression on me, and not only with her external, material beauty. As you know, amber is a healing and even magical stone. And I was able to experience it magical effect on myself...
It’s a pity that your time here is limited to a few minutes, and you can’t stay longer and look at everything in detail. The next group is breathing in the back. There is no provision for free movement at all. Even those who come individually to the palace are put into groups.
By the way, there is one very convenient moment - all excursionists are given headphones at the entrance. So everyone can hear the guide well, even those standing at a distance.
The Catherine Palace is living history. Each Russian emperor, starting with Catherine I, contributed something of his own to its construction and development. But the main creators of the palace were ladies - three empresses - the already named Catherine I, as well as Elizaveta Petrovna and Catherine II. It was they who made the Catherine Palace and Park as delightful as we know them.
But today I will not delve into history, but will tell you about our visit to the Catherine Palace during the Christmas holidays in 2013.
On January 5, we arrived in Pushkin to visit two palaces - Catherine and Alexandrovsky. I talked about my successful visit to the Alexander Palace a long time ago (a year ago) in an article. We arrived in the city at 12 o'clock and went straight there - it was logical, because it was the first on the way. It seemed logical to us. But as practice has shown, we made a mistake. Lost time.
I have already written about this, but it would not be a sin to repeat myself: if you come to Pushkin one time, for 1 day, and want to see both palaces, then I recommend starting your acquaintance with the palaces with the Catherine Palace. You can enter the Alexander Palace at any time, without queues or any other difficulties.
With Ekaterininsky everything is more complicated. Individual tourists (i.e. those who arrived without group excursions) are allowed there only according to a strict schedule: from 12:00 to 14:00 and from 16:00 to 17:00. Crazy queues are added to the tight schedule.
Our trip to the Catherine Palace. Part 1. Ruthless irony of fate
So, at 13.52 we entered the magnificent Catherine Park cheerfully and carefree. We took a look at the turquoise fairy-tale palace and walked along it along the path cleared of snow.
There were quite a few people, despite the chilly, windy weather. Yes, it’s understandable - Christmas holidays...
The snow-covered park is incredibly beautiful! Looking at all this beauty, we walked forward in anticipation of a miracle.
And then we ran our noses into the queue. But even then we didn’t understand anything. We went around the queue and continued along the path. Look around, take a walk...
We reached the Cameron Gallery. We hung around at the souvenir shop. We went to the toilet (it’s next to the souvenir shop). And we returned to the queue.
We're standing in line... we're looking at the palace in detail... yeah, it's not hot...
To be honest, I couldn’t believe it. Excursion groups, of course, they bypassed us regularly, but not often. Significantly more, well, simply many times more, came out of the palace of those who had already been shot. Time passed and it was clear that the palace was no longer overcrowded. It's terribly cold outside. Someone from the staff constantly looked out and glanced at the accumulated crowd of people. People stood silently and resignedly. Many believed that they would start launching earlier. There were few people in front of us, we waited and did not lose heart...
But I decided not to waste time and take a walk in the park,
Along the Cold Bath, Agate Rooms, Cameron Gallery...
I kept looking at the palace. I was afraid of being late.
I admired the Mirror Pond under the snow and the Lower Bath,
patterned trees,
The beauty of the Cameron Gallery from all sides.
Grotto on the pond.
I was in no hurry. Voz was there too. The queue grew. No one was allowed in. Sonya sat on her dad's shoulders.
My child and I were not alone in the queue - a couple of dozen people from us stood parents with a little boy.
In general, the situation with the children in this museum shocked me. Neither more nor less. The man, constantly looking out for some reason, clearly saw the frozen baby sitting on the two-meter dad and did not even offer to go inside the building to warm up.
The second child either felt bad or something else, and one of his parents dared to knock on the door of the palace. They were allowed in, but not further than the threshold, judging by the telephone conversation with the parent who remained in line.
Briefly speaking. Sophie and I didn't wait 20 minutes in line. For more than an hour and a half, we were so numb that we couldn’t stand it and went into the car. There was further standing unbearable. I reasoned this way: I myself have been to the palace several times, and I’m sure I will again. The child is small. She still understands little. The only one left in the queue was our dad, who had never been to this palace, was less cold than us, and who, out of principle, would never leave this, excuse me, fucking queue.
They let people into the building second by second...
It’s interesting, but in these dramatic moments the sun gilded the palace with its light, the sky cleared... Like a slight mockery, irony - the only ones The rays of the sun during our entire Christmas trip to St. Petersburg appeared at the most unpleasant moment of the trip....
And my daughter and I stomped into the car. We didn't care anymore.
Our trip to the Catherine Palace. Part 2. In a blaze of splendor
The Catherine Palace is definitely worth visiting. Another question is that in order to organize your visit, you must try so that it does not cause excruciating pain. The rules here are strict, so be patient in queuing. There are, of course, options to avoid them.
- Come on weekdays (not weekends or holidays) in the off-season.
- Come here as part of an organized group.
There are no other options. Did you come to St. Petersburg on a weekend in the summer or on holidays in the winter? Congratulations! In this case, drive up to the palace at least around 10 o'clock (to be sure to get into it at 12 o'clock - individuals are not allowed in before anyway). And don’t forget - the museum is closed on Tuesdays, as well as on the last Monday of the month.
And now photos of my beloved. You are welcome to love and favor me.
This concludes our excursion. Of course, these are not all the halls of the palace, but the main ones. Please note that all we see in the Catherine Palace are the state rooms. Unfortunately, the living quarters of the kings were never restored.
The palace leaves a double impression especially on those who visited here a long time ago, two or three decades ago, and can compare it with the modern situation. The fact that the reception of tourists is streamlined and resembles a conveyor belt, the fact that it is impossible to calmly walk through the museum at a comfortable pace, the fact that the museum has become more like a mechanism, a machine, than a cultural object - all this is sad.
I hope that with my story I only fueled your desire to come and see everything in person. And rightly so. No article, no photographs will convey the splendor of the Catherine Palace and will not create your personal impression.
Non-local passenger: “Tell me, is Tsarskoye Selo to get off here?”
Local passenger: “Yes, get out quickly, this is Pushkin!”
Information stand on the platform: “Children’s Village”.
(Overheard conversation on a St. Petersburg train)
“We wanted to see the amber room,
and for some reason he takes us to the Catherine Palace..."
(Whisperings of intelligent grandmothers on an excursion to Tsarskoe Selo)
Tsarskoe Selo is one of the most visited and at the same time challenging excursion sites in St. Petersburg. Visited because the famous Amber Room is located here. Difficult - because Tsarskoe Selo In the minds of the average person there are many myths of both historical, cultural and everyday nature. Therefore, I strongly recommend visiting Tsarskoye Selo accompanied by a professional guide (i.e. me). But if you decide to go to Tsarskoe Selo yourself, get to know the main mistakes independent tourists and do not commit them.
“Let's go to Tsarskoe Selo today! Now we’ll see on the map where it is...” You won't find Tsarskoye Selo on the map. Since 1937 it has been called “Pushkin” (in 1937 they celebrated the centenary of the death of Pushkin, who studied at the Tsarskoye Selo Lyceum). If you go by train, the railway station will be called “Detskoye Selo” (that’s what Tsarskoye Selo was called in the Soviet period until 1937)
“Let's go and see the Amber Room. And then, maybe, we’ll go to the royal palace...” The Amber Room is one of the rooms of the Catherine Palace (in honor of Catherine I, the first owner). In addition to this room, about two dozen halls are now open in the palace. Therefore, it is impossible to get to the Amber Room without passing the Catherine Palace. However, since last year it has become possible to get into the Catherine Palace and not visit the Amber Room (you will simply be led through another part of the palace - the rooms of Pavel Petrovich), so be careful.
“The guidebook says that the palace is open from 10:00 to 17:00. Let's go to the opening so as not to stand in line..." Individual visitors during the summer season and holidays are allowed from 12:00 to 14:00 and from 16:00 to 17:00. The rest of the time, entry is only open to reserved groups from the opposite side of the palace.
“Here is the palace. Everything is empty, there is no one. And they said there would be a line..." This is the Alexander Palace (yellow and white). You can also go here, but you won’t see any luxurious interiors. There is an exhibition dedicated to the life of Nicholas II and his family. The Catherine Palace with the Amber Room is further away, it is white and blue (they say it is painted the color of the eyes of Empress Elizabeth Petrovna).
“Here is the blue and white Catherine Palace. But here is the ticket office for the park. But we don’t need to go to the park, we need to go to the palace.” The palace can only be accessed through the park. Don't lose your park tickets! They will again need to be presented upon entering the palace.
“Yeah, here we are in the park. Where is this huge line going?” Your vague unpleasant suspicion did not let you down - this is the queue at the Catherine Palace. Get up and wait. You will have to wait an hour and a half. At this time, you can send your wife and children for a walk in the park.
“Well, we entered the palace. I hate everyone ( sweating profusely)! What now? Now buy tickets to the palace by showing the park tickets. This can be done at three cash registers, and not just at the one where everyone is crowded. If you have outerwear, a bottle of water and a large bag, they must be checked into the cloakroom. Take your camera and camera with you - included in the ticket price.
“What nonsense? Queue again? I was already standing!” Yes, you need to stand again. But not for long (10-20 minutes) and indoors. This is the queue to the entrance turnstiles.
“I went through the turnstiles. Damn this palace! Now we quickly look for the Amber Room, take a photo of it and go to the restaurant. I want to eat!” It's not that simple. Visiting the museum is only possible as part of a group with a guide. You can't walk around the museum yourself. You are also not allowed to take photographs in the Amber Room, but you can in all other rooms.
“Well, the excursion, thank God, is over. But now I know in what luxury the Russian tsars lived. It’s clear why the revolution happened...” Not a single Russian tsar lived in the palace that was shown to you, because:
- All this has been done over the past 50-odd years. After the war, almost nothing remained of the palace. The Amber Room is a post-war reconstruction, the location of the real amber panels is unknown.
- Different interiors of the palace have been restored for different periods. The main staircase is from the era of Alexander II, the Great (Throne) Hall is from the era of Elizabeth Petrovna, the Green Dining Room is from the era of Catherine II. Most of the paintings on the walls (except Art gallery) did not hang there. They were written for other pavilions. And it is completely absurd to imagine that all the order’s services could be displayed in the Cavalry Dining Room on one day.
- The interiors that will be shown to you are the main rooms. They were intended for ceremonial events (dinners, balls, theatrical performances, receptions). The personal rooms of the emperors have not been restored to date.
Non-local passenger: “Tell me, is Tsarskoye Selo to get off here?”
Local passenger: “Yes, get out quickly, this is Pushkin!”
Information stand on the platform: “Children’s Village”.
(Overheard conversation on a St. Petersburg train)
“We wanted to see the amber room,
and for some reason he takes us to the Catherine Palace..."
(Whisperings of intelligent grandmothers on an excursion to Tsarskoe Selo)
Tsarskoe Selo is one of the most visited and at the same time challenging excursion sites in St. Petersburg. Visited because the famous Amber Room is located here. Complex - because Tsarskoye Selo is associated in the minds of the average person with many myths of both a historical, cultural and everyday nature. Therefore, I strongly recommend visiting Tsarskoye Selo accompanied by a professional guide (i.e. me). But if you decide to go to Tsarskoe Selo yourself, get acquainted with the main mistakes of independent tourists and do not make them.
“Let's go to Tsarskoe Selo today! Now we’ll see on the map where it is...” You won't find Tsarskoye Selo on the map. Since 1937 it has been called “Pushkin” (in 1937 they celebrated the centenary of the death of Pushkin, who studied at the Tsarskoye Selo Lyceum). If you go by train, the railway station will be called “Detskoye Selo” (that’s what Tsarskoye Selo was called in the Soviet period until 1937)
“Let's go and see the Amber Room. And then, maybe, we’ll go to the royal palace...” The Amber Room is one of the rooms of the Catherine Palace (in honor of Catherine I, the first owner). In addition to this room, about two dozen halls are now open in the palace. Therefore, it is impossible to get to the Amber Room without passing the Catherine Palace. However, since last year it has become possible to get into the Catherine Palace and not visit the Amber Room (you will simply be led through another part of the palace - the rooms of Pavel Petrovich), so be careful.
“The guidebook says that the palace is open from 10:00 to 17:00. Let's go to the opening so as not to stand in line..." Individual visitors during the summer season and holidays are allowed from 12:00 to 14:00 and from 16:00 to 17:00. The rest of the time, entry is only open to reserved groups from the opposite side of the palace.
“Here is the palace. Everything is empty, there is no one. And they said there would be a line..." This is the Alexander Palace (yellow and white). You can also go here, but you won’t see any luxurious interiors. There is an exhibition dedicated to the life of Nicholas II and his family. The Catherine Palace with the Amber Room is further away, it is white and blue (they say it is painted the color of the eyes of Empress Elizabeth Petrovna).
“Here is the blue and white Catherine Palace. But here is the ticket office for the park. But we don’t need to go to the park, we need to go to the palace.” The palace can only be accessed through the park. Don't lose your park tickets! They will again need to be presented upon entering the palace.
“Yeah, here we are in the park. Where is this huge line going?” Your vague unpleasant suspicion did not let you down - this is the queue at the Catherine Palace. Get up and wait. You will have to wait an hour and a half. At this time, you can send your wife and children for a walk in the park.
“Well, we entered the palace. I hate everyone ( sweating profusely)! What now? Now buy tickets to the palace by showing the park tickets. This can be done at three cash registers, and not just at the one where everyone is crowded. If you have outerwear, a bottle of water and a large bag, they must be checked into the cloakroom. Take your camera and camera with you - included in the ticket price.
“What nonsense? Queue again? I was already standing!” Yes, you need to stand again. But not for long (10-20 minutes) and indoors. This is the queue to the entrance turnstiles.
“I went through the turnstiles. Damn this palace! Now we quickly look for the Amber Room, take a photo of it and go to the restaurant. I want to eat!” It's not that simple. Visiting the museum is only possible as part of a group with a guide. You can't walk around the museum yourself. You are also not allowed to take photographs in the Amber Room, but you can in all other rooms.
“Well, the excursion, thank God, is over. But now I know in what luxury the Russian tsars lived. It’s clear why the revolution happened...” Not a single Russian tsar lived in the palace that was shown to you, because:
- All this has been done over the past 50-odd years. After the war, almost nothing remained of the palace. The Amber Room is a post-war reconstruction, the location of the real amber panels is unknown.
- Different interiors of the palace have been restored for different periods. The main staircase is from the era of Alexander II, the Great (Throne) Hall is from the era of Elizabeth Petrovna, the Green Dining Room is from the era of Catherine II. Most of the paintings on the walls (except for the Picture Gallery) did not hang there. They were written for other pavilions. And it is completely absurd to imagine that all the order’s services could be displayed in the Cavalry Dining Room on one day.
- The interiors that will be shown to you are the main rooms. They were intended for ceremonial events (dinners, balls, theatrical performances, receptions). The personal rooms of the emperors have not been restored to date.
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