Tour operator LLC "Altai-campaign". Tour operator LLC "Altai-campaign" Calendar is subject to change

From June 10 to 17, work was carried out in the Aktru Gorge (Altai) to improve the mountain infrastructure for tourists, climbers and everyone who visits this beautiful area. In the project's boundaries "Open Rocks of Russia" Equipment for sports and educational places for rock climbing and mountaineering was produced. The work took place on the already existing climbing sectors “Cornices” and “Red Stone” in the vicinity of the Aktru mountain camp.
A new infrastructure project for this gorge also started here. "Accessible Mountains". As part of the first stage of the project, the existing system was systematized hiking trails district and began their equipment.

Work on the rock sector "Cornices"

Equipment of rocks and marking of routes is carried out within the framework of the projects “Open Rocks of Russia” and “Accessible Mountains” under the guidance and support Russian Mountaineering Federation And Federation of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing of the Tomsk Region
Materials and equipment provided Vento company(http://vento.ru/) for which many thanks to them!

The project “Marked Trails of Russia Rutrail” provides comprehensive technical and information support for trail marking work (http://www.rutrail.org/)
Special thanks personally Sergei Astakhov (Tomsk) for the main role in organizing and conducting work in the Aktru Gorge!
Many thanks to everyone who helped and is helping the above projects to live and be implemented.

Project pages on the Internet:

Official website of the FAR
http://alpfederation.ru/

“Marked trails of Russia Rutrail”
http://www.rutrail.org/
https://www.facebook.com/rutrail/
https://vk.com/rutrail

"Accessible Mountains"
https://www.facebook.com/groups/448405805325682/
https://vk.com/club94522380

"Open Rocks of Russia"
http://alpfederation.ru/page/projects/#

Group on the background in. Kurkurek

Introduction

The idea of climbing the ver. Kurkurek along the western slope was proposed by Nikolai Simonov. Ascent and traverse to c. The actor was declared 4th grade in the campaign. under his leadership. This section was the real cherry on the cake, but due to the prevailing circumstances we had to abandon it. However, the idea turned out to be so tempting that two participants in the July hike (Artem and Katya) decided to return to the North Chuysky ridge in a month. Kostya and Denis joined them, forming the final composition of the group.

Compound

Route

River valley Maashey - western Kurkurek glacier - climbing to the. Kurkurek (3982 m.) from the west + traverse of the ridge to the east. Aktru (4044 m.) + descent from the ridge along path 2A, alps. (all together 2B tourist.) - ice. Bolshoy Aktru - a/l Aktru

Chronology

August 19 - We planned to leave at 5:30, we left at 7:30. We drove in a race against the clouds and rain. At first we ran away from them, then we got up to eat, and they caught up. In Aktash the weather completely deteriorated, and we decided to abandon the trip that day. I didn’t want to start the hike by setting up a tent in the rain. The delivery man Ereldey took us to a hut somewhere in the Kurai steppe, where we spent the night for 1000 rubles. They left their car in Kyzyl-Tash.

August 20 - At 7:30 Ereldei picked us up and took us to the bridge over the river. Maashey is not far from its confluence with Chuya. The route in this place begins with a drop in altitude of 250 meters, which negatively affects the results of the day's walking. By lunchtime we approached the moraine bank in front of Lake Maashey. After lunch we walked through a moraine ridge and wandered around Maashey in the place where there used to be a lake. The low water level in August allowed us to do this without any problems, however, during periods of active melting of glaciers, such a ford may prove difficult. The weather turned bad in the evening and it began to snow. We spent the night at the turnoff point into the valley we needed, near the mouth of the right tributary of the Maashi. The landmark is a waterfall, a large stream and the end of the forest zone. We settled on a shelf on a grassy slope. The place is not very level, we regretted that we did not stop for the night in the forest an hour earlier.

August 21 - In about 3.5 hours of muddy (with stops) walking time we reached the beginning of the glacier. At the top everything was tight, the ascent line was not visible. We decided to stop for half a day, especially since we had lunch on convenient location, where in 20 minutes of work with a shovel they leveled good platform for a tent. Around five in the evening it cleared up, so we went lightly to the slope to watch the climb. We saw that the glacier was covered with snow.

August 22 - Clear in the morning. We got ready, went out, and an hour later we came to the beginning of the steep climb up the glacier. Katya had to change her stylish sneakers to layers. We got in touch, put on our crampons, and went up. The first steep climb was overcome quite quickly, but then a bend began, riddled with cracks. Due to the bend, the cracks were not visible from below, so they had to be untangled on the fly. I had to go down a little into one of the cracks and step onto a snow-ice edge of unknown reliability. For safety, railings were installed in this place. The remaining cracks were overcome by moving without hanging. After lunch we approached the takeoff to the northwest ridge. At this point we decided to turn right and climb the southwestern ridge, since this climb was much more gradual, and the cracks on the way were covered with snow. We spent the night on the slope, leveling the area in the snow. The group's pace slowed considerably in the afternoon. Some participants began to experience mild symptoms of altitude sickness.

August 23 - It's clear again in the morning. We continued our ascent to the southwestern ridge. We were faced with an alternative: to take a flatter path, but in a detour, turning to the right and winding between cracks; or go to the left along the steep tongue, going up to the ice walls. Since the path without snowshoes was very tiring, we decided to take a steep, but shorter route. After an hour of pure running time we reached the ice walls. Not finding a passage, I had to climb about 10 meters of the ice wall. The first participant climbed with a backpack and a pair of ice tools on the bottom rope, the rest climbed along the railings using jumars. This was followed by another ice wall, which we managed to climb in bundles along the snow-ice tongue. After it, a gentle exit to the southwestern ridge of Kurkurek awaited us. The weather was clear, and from the ridge the North Chuysky ridge, Maasheysky glacier, and Belukha were clearly visible. Soon, it became visible in. Aktru and the line of the upcoming traverse. The rest of the way to V. Kurkurek took about 2 more hours and was a tedious path through muddy snow with a gradual increase in altitude. The peak of Kurkurek is like a “football field” - flat and large. It offers wonderful views of the Kurai steppe, the Kuraisky, Chikhacheva, and Severn ridges. and South Chuiskys. We had lunch at the top, after lunch it was decided not to go anywhere that day. From A. Shcherbakov we knew that we had a technically difficult section ahead of us, and there was little time left, and besides, the snow had become slushy after lunch and became unreliable. We barely had time to set up the tent when a snowstorm began, confirming the correctness of the decision not to go anywhere. One of the participants continued to experience altitude sickness syndromes.

August 24 - Clear again in the morning. On this and the remaining days the weather was sunny and hot. By lunchtime the snow had become limp and stuck very heavily to the crampons; even the anti-sticks couldn’t help. On the descent from Kurkurek, one rope was hung on the ice on the southern ridge. They tried to release the rope using a self-drill, but they failed, and they had to climb using ice tools with a bottom rope. During the descent along the railing, they did not keep track of the mitten, which, taking advantage of the freedom provided, first rolled onto the ridge, could not stay there and went to the Maashey glacier. Next began a technically difficult section of the ridge. We walked through it in a team, moving alternately. We secured ourselves by laying the rope behind the stones. Almost immediately the path was blocked by Zhumabek Zhandarmovich. We overcame it by walking along the top and lowering two railing ropes in turn. The second rope was lowered from the ledge on the left in the direction of movement (to see the line of descent you need to come close to the ledge; from a distance it seems that there is an abyss behind the ledge). To organize the railing, we made two loops from consumable rope. This was not enough for Zhumabek, and he took the hoba from one of the participants. After passing Zhumabek, they discovered an old supply loop. The noose was removed and they did not use it; instead, they continued to walk together in alternating movements, placing the rope behind rocky ledges. The section of the narrow and sharp ridge soon gave way to a wide and convenient one for movement. Then we went in a bunch. We overcame the Kvadratnaya peak (3750 m), descended to the foot of the pyramidal peak (the supposed saddle of the Masterskiy lane 3A). We decided not to go further, since the snow was soft and moving through it was quite labor-intensive. The evening pleased us with amazing sunsets. We cooked rice, drank cognac and enjoyed the views.

25-th of August. There was frost at night, in the morning we covered 200 m along the ridge of the Pyramidalnaya peak in one walk on frozen snow. We took pictures with Karagem, Maashey and Belukha in the background. In one more walk we crossed the junction peak and reached path 2A to Aktru. The weather is good again. Before us, two and four climbers climbed Aktru, all on route 2A. We didn't meet anyone else at the top, although the day was again fine. Leaving our backpacks, we went to Aktra and had a long photo session there, recorded a video, called our family (there is Beeline and Tele2 reception at the top). We also tried to contact the tourist center in the Aktru Valley and order a bathhouse, but it didn’t work out - there was a communication failure downstairs. However, thanks to a lucky coincidence, the bathhouse was waiting for us the next day. On the same day we went down to the blue lake. The descent along path 2A was overcome in bundles. Along steep sections we descended facing the slope for three steps. The snow was actively melting, it was wet, but the soft ice made it possible to descend without railings. We spent the night in the glaciologists' hut. Mice live in the hut. August, 26th. They took off the layers, put on sneakers and flip-flops and ran downstairs. We met a group of mattress tourists, they were amazed at our appearance and especially at the fact that someone was wearing flip-flops. We managed to run just in time to the bathhouse. After the bath we found where to buy beer. Life sparkled with bright colors :)

conclusions

Traverse Kurkurek-Aktru is another path connecting the valleys of the river. Maashey and R. Aktru. This route is approximately equivalent in technical complexity to other options (Aktru Lane and Maashey Lane - both 2B), while it is quite long (requires an overnight stay on the Kurkurek mountain or the ridge between the Kurkurek and Aktru villages). Its pleasant side is the stunning views; in terms of aesthetics, this route can be called one of the most beautiful on the North Chuysky ridge.

Photos

View of the traverse

Spills on former lake Maashey

Assessing the situation

Ledn. zap. Kurkurek

We hang the cracks

We fight the snow as best we can

Features of this route

Climbing to the peak of Aktru 4044 m is real mountaineering. One of the main four-thousanders of the North Chuisky ridge, translated from the Altai language, Aktru means white house, white parking lot, white dwelling. Aktru Gorge is known as one of the centers of mountaineering in Altai, founded back in 1938, in the post-war period it was restored only in 1953.

We invite you to make an unforgettable climb to the majestic and beautiful peak of Aktru!

Is waiting for you:

Getting to know the natural beauty of the Altai Mountains;

Acclimatization climb to the top of the Dome of Three Lakes 3556m (1B);

Beautiful trekking to Blue Lake;

Technical ice training on a glacier;

Climbing one of the main four-thousanders of the North Chuisky ridge - Aktru!

Route to the top of Aktru

village Kurai - Alpine camp Aktru - peak Dome of Three Lakes 3556m (1B) - Blue Lake– Big Aktru Glacier – Aktru Peak 4044.4m (2A/3A) – Blue Lake – Aktru Alpine Camp – Kurai village.

What is needed on your part

Participants of the hike are required to make an advance payment of 30% of the tour cost no later than a month before the start of the hike (in case of refusal to participate in the tour, the advance payment is not refundable due to the preparation costs incurred)

Good physical uniform and personal equipment
Clothing (suitable for trekking and climbing, with detailed list personal belongings can be viewed);
backpack (volume 75-95l);
warm sleeping bag (comfortable operating mode no less than -5 C)
mat, sunglasses, climbing boots, crampons, lower harness, 4 carabiners, jumar, helmet, descender, belay rope or 3m piece of rope, ice ax)

If you don't have some of the equipment, you can take it from (not included in the price).

Tour program

Today begins the active part of our walking route in the Aktru gorge. We wake up, have breakfast and drive in an all-terrain vehicle along a mountain field road to a place called “Transfer” by tourists. You can get to “Perevalka” on your own in a four-wheel drive vehicle, if the fords across the Tyute River are not high, and leave the car in a paid parking lot (~100 rubles/day). From “Perevalka” a very bad road begins, which we overcome in a local UAZ. The 8 km road takes a couple of hours, and we arrive at the place, at the Aktru Alpine Camp and set up a base camp, from which we will make a radial exit to the Dome of the Three Lakes.

Today we make an acclimatization climb to the top of the Dome of Three Lakes 3556m. The journey to the top can take up to 14 hours, so we get up very early and begin the climb. This climb has a difficulty category of 1B, but does not present any particular difficulties. Part of the path goes steeply up through a couloir, then we come to a place called “Green Hotel”, then the path goes along the glacier to the very top. From the Dome of Three Lakes you can see the Kurai steppe and the entire North Chuysky ridge. In the evening we go down to the base camp, a bathhouse awaits us.

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