Cape Demon Nose on the map. Demon Nose. Rock petroglyphs and the human factor

As part of the Pickup Club's trip to Demon Nos, our team, due to their active participation in the life of this wonderful club, decided to once again visit this center of pilgrimage for jeepers.

Departure photo:

On the eve of departure, it turned out that one of our comrades needed to stop on the way to the city of Babaevo, at the local department of the traffic police, for information on a personal case about his rights. In this regard, it was decided to break through the Babaevo-Vytegra route along forest roads and clearings, which was done. We poked around for a long time, bumped into dead ends, but still went to Vytegra, and with virtually no losses, except for a flying table, loose in my body, which knocked out the glass of the kung at the next peak. Fasten the shmurdyak tighter!

We arrived at the site of the Pickup Club camp, near the village of Karshevo, which is the last point of civilized country roads before Besov.

We ate, drank, slept, woke up, lowered the tires and drove to the Karshevo-Besov Nos SS:

The road was, as usual, interesting and moderately dry:

and moderately wet:

What’s interesting about Demon Nose is that the 17 kilometers of road leading up to it offer the jeeper a lot of different obstacles, including maneuvering between stumps and trees, deep ruts with high-quality mud, and geometric ambushes with the wheels hanging out, and there’s even a bit of a stone trial.

We got to the shore of Onega, and there, as always, it was beautiful:

We set up camp in our favorite place - between Besovo and Peri Nos, and set up an awning

Well, we set the table:

If anyone is interested, this is a tourist table that is standard on any car, its name is radiator, it’s a pity the photo was not saved

I won’t post a lot of photos of Besov Nos himself, those who have been already know what is there, and those who haven’t been - it’s better to see everything in person:

We went shopping, drank vodka, towed the broken car back to Karshevo, had a blast, and it was time to head back. But, instead of the usual Besov-Karshevo rubilov, we wanted to take the previously untrodden route Besov-Shalsky (the one that is residential).

In abandoned Shalsky we went strictly north, in a swampy forest we came across a truck driver, this man deserves a separate paragraph:

He travels alone, in a stock UAZ Patriot, without a winch, without zip, without tracks and without a clear understanding of all the risks arising from such preparedness. We saw him in the forest near Jack Patrick's raised truck, noticing a column of 10 Japanese pickup trucks, without batting an eye, he asked us if we had a spare steering rod for the UAZ... because he had bent his own. Distressed that we didn’t have a zip for the UAZ with us, he complained that it had been broken for 2 days already, and asked to be a passenger to Shalsky, deciding to find traction there and!!! a mechanic who is ready to go with him back 15 km through the wilderness without a single path in order to install it on the UAZ. Of course, we were surprised, but we took the boy with us. On the way, they asked, what if in Shalsky there is no steering rod for the Patriot and the crazy mechanics? Well, he replied, then I’ll go to Moscow for the rod and installation instructions. 7 km before Shalsky, in complete wilderness, he decided to get off and walk straight through the forest. An unusual person...

PS. Subsequently, we identified him through a blog on the drive and found out that all his adventures ended successfully.

But let’s return to our column, after passing through the woods we came to the shore behind Peri Nos and walked along the wild shore:

Our path led along the coast, with periodic visits to the forest, skirting cape after cape. We really liked the coastal hills, which there was no way to avoid: And one of the most impressive hills:

Along the route we encountered raised swamps a couple of times and a lot, a lot of stone trials on wet, moss-covered rock tongues. After the trial we went out onto the sand spit again and drove the last 4 km without any problems. On the way, we dropped the navara on a tree, jammed the door of the L200, broke a couple of winches. Having gone out to Shalsky, we pumped up and decided to go without stopping to Pudozh, to the hotel, in order to taste the delights of civilization, of which we had been deprived for almost a week.

As a result of the trip - we scouted out new road from/to Besov Nos, it is very interesting and varied, and most importantly, it is not completely worn out by jeepers, unlike the Karshevo-Besov route.

Many thanks to Taiga and Land Surveyor from the Pickup Club, who rode with us and actively photographed the whole process.

Sincerely,

At the beginning of summer, the thought came to ride the DEMONS NOSE. After studying the primary sources and chatting on the forum, time somehow passed unnoticed. August has arrived. Having prepared everything, checked it, we set off on the foggy morning of August 11, the expedition consisting of: Mitsubishi Montero Sport 3.5 “Behemoth”, crew: me, my wife Elizabeth and daughter Alexandra. SAFE car of the People's Republic of China, assembled by the hands of Gzhel potters, China. Crew: Vitaly and his wife Irina. We started towards Onega.

The sun came out and the ride became more fun.

About four hours later we stopped for breakfast.

We suddenly ran out of gas, and in this situation we were once again convinced that signs were not to be trusted.

Normal refueling after 15 km. Lukoil. So time passed unnoticed, and we drove through Vologda almost without incident. The traffic police were understanding and showed only interest. In general, you must admit, it’s nice, damn it, when you drive and everyone looks at your creation with admiration.

As I already wrote, having passed Vologda, we went to Vytegra.

Life flows, people collect something, and this means the collective farms are working. The landscapes outside the window are changing: rivers, fields, lakes, forests - in a word, beauty.

On the way to Vytegra, the Chinese had a breakdown - the rear ammo came loose. Fixed it quickly and forward.

And finally VITEGRA.

Known since 1710 as the village of Vyangi and its Vyanginskaya pier, at the confluence of the Vytegra river. Vyangi (Karelian vengi “stream, small river, channel”). The trade route from Arkhangelsk to St. Petersburg passed through the pier. In 1773 the village was transformed into the city of Vytegra along the more significant (receiving) Vytegra River. The etymology of the hydronym Vytegra has not been established, but the format -egra allows us to classify it as one of the ancient Finno-Ugric names characteristic of the North of the European part of Russia. Revival of economic and cultural life in the first half of the 19th century. associated with the opening (1810) of the Mariinsky Canal of the Mariinsky water system with a system of locks. The town is small, but I was amazed by the many sports grounds, cafes, shops and stores. Having refueled with the correct gasoline at Lukoil, we drove towards the city of PUDOZH.

It was first mentioned in 1382 as the village of Pudoga, then - Pudozhsky churchyard. County town Olonets province became on May 16, 1785 by decree of Catherine II. From the end of the 18th century. at the mouth of the river Vodla operated several glass factories, with late XIX V. - sawmills. Development of deposits of titanium-magnesium ores, granite (Kashina Gora, known since the 19th century - gray and pinkish-gray granite was used for cladding buildings and embankments of St. Petersburg, Moscow)

In the central part of Pudozh, residential blocks of the 19th - early centuries have been preserved.
Numerous “Onega” petroglyphs - rock paintings Neolithic and Bronze Ages (about 800 near the mouth of the Vodla and on the capes of Lake Onega).
Besov Nos (Ancient rock paintings, reconstructed Stone Age settlement)
Ilyinsky Pogost (Wooden building of the late 18th century)

This is true historical reference. Our destination is the village of Karshevo.

And finally the Border.

Joyful Vitaly.

(we don’t pay attention to the numbers, this is not true)

Let's go forward.

Since we were not moving very fast: 70-80 km per hour, then, as you understand, it was getting dark: somewhere around the beginning of 8 o’clock. We reached the village quickly and were convinced that a map to Bes was not needed, since there was a direction.

Traces of the standard are visible. In short, we are moving in the direction we need.

Since Shraybikus, who is also a child, was filming against the headlights, it turned out a little dark.

and so good. We drove about 4 km.

Having reached a large and, as it seemed to us in the dark, terrible puddle, we decided to spend the night and in the morning, full of strength, quickly reach the cape.

We set up camp, quickly had a snack and went to bed. In the morning, at about 7 o'clock, the female half discovered deposits of all sorts of useful things and began to collect and absorb it all. While all this was happening, a cyclist appeared out of nowhere, like in a fairy tale, from underground. We talked, compared equipment and asked to say hello to Bes and that we would be there soon, and then we parted ways.

After the cyclist, Vitaly provided all possible assistance.

After having breakfast, what God sent, we got ready to explore the puddles.

After examining the puddle, deciding how to get there, we set off. The navigators took video and photographs.

“We’ll go straight and that’s it,” Yura said, because the bike passed, which means we’ll go there too. Vitalik thought: “However, I doubt it.”

My beloved is setting up the camera.

Having easily overcome the puddle, we moved on, I’ll say right away that there were no quick goals - for example, there were no goals to fly in 2 hours. We were walking, our girls were picking raspberries, wild strawberries and blueberries. In short, we relaxed in nature, not forgetting to move towards our intended goal.

Simply beautiful.

Each puddle was examined for snags and other troubles.

Our fighting friends.

After driving 5 km through potholes and puddles, a problem happened with a Chinese friend. Although we went through and inspected all the puddles and ambushes for foreign objects, logs, stones, etc., somewhere we missed something, and, as a result, we broke the steering rod and bent the stabilizer bar. We parked and started repairing the Chinese.

The Chinese guy looks very nice. In this situation, a rack and pinion jack, purchased on the eve of the trip, came in very handy.

Here is a slightly enlarged picture of the breakdown.

It was a good log. It took about 2 hours to remove and disassemble. During this time, our familiar cyclist from the Cape and two motorcyclists passed by. Just in case, if possible, they asked the locals to come by boat so that they could quickly reach the village and try to repair it. It didn't work.

With the help of my mother, some keys and a hand winch, we removed the steering rod and, realizing that there was nowhere to wait for help, the connection was not working, we drove the Behemoth towards the village to look for where to repair the rod. At the pier in the village we accidentally met the Head of the district administration, and he recommended to us a very good master, Alexander Petrovich. Lives A.P.: village. Krasnoborsky, near the store; 3 large garages and a large a private house white brick. Opposite are two 2-storey houses of 16 sq. m. telephone. +7 921 702-24-19. It's a 10-minute drive from Karshevo.

Vitaly and I were away for 3 hours (the journey there and back was 45-50 minutes), the rest of the time was for traction repairs. Petrovich’s hands are simply golden. He did everything superbly, invited me to stop by on the way back and check the condition of the car. Our girls, while they were waiting for us, set up camp, prepared dinner, just royal well done. Having returned, we collected the Chinese in an hour and rested. Photo below is where we were being repaired.

In the morning we got ready and set off - a little more carefully, since we were looking at the traction - how it would behave after the repair.

Having made sure that everything was in order with the traction, I became calmer. There are 4 serious ambushes ahead, according to bicycle and motorcycle tourists. We got to the first one.

We studied, looked, planned how to go. Let's crawl.

During the inspection, he didn’t look closely and missed the fallen tree, the result was that he rested, buried himself, and sank.

Along the left is a log that was pulled out. Vitalik slid into an old rut and got stuck; he had to swan across the entire swamp (in a bunch - 3 ropes).

Elizaveta - my wife - got tired of sitting in the car (get in, get out, go take a photo, etc.), made a staff and went ahead of the rest to measure the fairway of puddles.

And we followed her like a pioneer.

And finally, we arrived at the stream.

A very nice place, we thought.

All around are traces of the struggle for life.

We decided on how to go, but I was too lazy to straighten the logs and add new ones, for which I paid by lying on the way out. Afterwards, they corrected everything, padded it, and Vitalik drove through calmly. All Russian, maybe, damn it.

We passed this byaku, went to the village, or rather, what was left of it.

There are 400 meters left and we are there.

The finish line has some elements of rolling, the sand is for some reason very viscous, worse than clay.

We drove, playfully, through a ditch.

That's all. This is the treasured shore. But for some reason the joy passed very quickly, the goal was achieved - everyone became sad. A very strong wind was blowing from the water, waves and all that.

Then everything was the same as everyone else’s: we drove up to the cape, looked around, selected a parking spot, set up camp, had a festive dinner, met neighbors and archaeologists. And until late at night by the fire - fortunately, we don’t need to perform feats in the morning, we’ve already proven that we can.

Traces of early civilization.

Cultural program - cinema viewing.

In the morning we all went in search of petroglyphs.

We studied everything left and right. They found everyone and everyone, one might say they satisfied their hunger for information, merged with Mother Nature. The places are simply amazing, I can’t say in words like Tyutchev... but there is a camera - it tells everything. A little beauty, I think, won't hurt.

and, most importantly, we get to the place for which all this was done and passed: THE DEMONSIC NOSE and, of course, the DEMONS himself.

On east coast On Lake Onega and in the lower reaches of the Vyg River (before its confluence with the White Sea) there are petroglyphs - unique monuments monumental art of the Neolithic era (IV - II millennium BC).

Demon Nose is the central and longest of the rocky capes, as if organizing the entire surrounding space, like a tall church or bell tower in old village, but only he is in horizontal plane, jutting out into the lake at 750 m. Naturally, the bays washing it are more extensive. At the base the cape is very narrow, less than 100 m, then it widens noticeably, and somewhere in the middle part it still bends slightly into southwest direction. It has a cap of dense forest, but at the very top and everywhere along the water's edge bedrock is exposed.
The cape serves as a reliable landmark; It is no coincidence that a lighthouse is placed at its tip. From here you have an excellent view of the neighboring capes and islands. On the contrary, behind a narrow but deep strait there is an unnamed granite island of elongated shape, also excellent place to view the coast, but from the side of the lake.

At the tip of Besov Nos, the elemental power of the lake is especially clearly felt. With terrible force, shaking the rock, waves crash here during a storm. Thunderstorms are perceived in a special way here, awakening uncertainty, fear and anxiety. But more often the cape is hospitable in its own way. If the wind is not head-on, then you can always take shelter in the bays on one side or the other and wait out the bad weather. The ancient masters, who chose it as a place for their amazing creations, could not help but pay attention to the very different state of the cape, sometimes idyllically calm, sometimes capriciously harsh.

In the central part of the lower tier, the famous “triad” is carved out, which laid the foundation for the entire complex - three gigantic figures in relation to all other images, which are very famous: an otter (lizard), a demon and, finally, a catfish (burbot). Their length is respectively 2.56; 2.46 and 2.65 m. These are the largest images of the entire complex. In the center is a colorful figure of a demon, cut by a longitudinal crack into almost two proportional parts. A feeling of great surprise and vague fear is evoked by a monster with a square, contoured head, inside of which a mouth, nose and eyes are roughly outlined, one eye being shown as a round spot, and the other as a circle with a dot in the center. The demon has a thin, only slightly wider than the crack, long neck, arms spread out to the sides and bent at the elbows with five long outstretched fingers, a massive block-shaped body with a slight extension downwards, legs widely spaced and bent at the knees, disproportionately thin and short, like the arms . A small sharp-angled protrusion sticks out on the right side. The edges of the already familiar crack were deliberately chipped, perhaps even before the “birth” of the demon. From the name of the cape and the nearby village it follows that the image of the demon is based on the idea, maintained for centuries, of some kind of evil, unclean force. It is no coincidence that the left hand of the demon is covered by a Christian cross with monograms of Christ on both sides of the upper end and an oval above them. It was most likely knocked out by the monks of the Murom Monastery, which was located 25 km south along the coast, who clearly demonstrated their hostile attitude towards the “pagan” image of the demon.

Having finished examining the cape, and, as you understand, having photographed the traces of our ancestors, Vitaly and I decided to leave the spinning rod, just for fun. No sooner said than done.

Local Kuzmich, sailing past us on a boat, said that we wouldn’t catch much, since the wind was changing, and the weather and the fish would go to the distant cordon. In principle, we became convinced of this very soon; everything started to deteriorate almost before our eyes. Yes, I almost forgot, the catch of 300-400 grams of fish were not harmed and were released into their native element, that is, Onega.

It was so good, but it became a little sad. I began to have anxious thoughts about the way back, if anything.

And a few words about the forest along the shore of Onega. During the day, of course, everything is fine and beautiful, but as soon as twilight falls, it’s just kind of creepy, where are Spielberg and King with their horror stories in the pavilions, our taiga is the scariest at night, I think you’ll agree. Garlands of lichen, moss hanging from branches, intricately curved trunks and branches, protruding juniper bushes, and driftwood in the reflections of a fire and the light of a lantern, and under the moon with partly cloudy skies.

In the evening, a breeze began to blow from the water, the sky became increasingly clouded with very ugly-looking clouds with a hint that everyone would be washed away at night. In the southwest, flashes of lightning with peals of thunder were periodically visible. Local Kuzmich did not deceive, the shaman of figs. We sat at the table, watched a movie, drank tea, and discussed tomorrow - what if it rained. And the child, meanwhile, was watching an awesome sunset, armed with a camera.

And the child also found a lighthouse, which was 16 km from us.

MORNING. At about 5 o'clock a strong thunderstorm passed, consisting of two parts, plus a gusty wind. At certain moments our tent probably had a desire to fly away with the 4 pine trees to which it was attached. According to my estimates, 2-2.5 cm of precipitation fell on us. And the shore of Onega met us like this.

Just a storm. And on top of everything, there was little rain, like 2 bags of cereal. We started getting ready at about 10 am, when we were completely convinced that this weather anomaly would last for a long time, and, most importantly, that the road was getting “better and better” every hour. We collected water for those needs: to wash the windows there and so on, it will be useful on the road, we decided.

When everyone had gathered, they put things in order on the planet, had a snack, and, with God’s help, moved towards home. The road was met with viscous mucus and a lot of puddles.

Once he swan in a swamp: he flew across the track and that’s it - on his belly. But there was another ambush that we learned about in the same swamp. It turned out that China's steering wheel was also broken from the impact, in addition to damage to the steering rod. This is what came out in the swamp: the front end worked without load, but under load it crunched and knocked out this 4x4 drive. In a word, life has become more fun.

And the rest of the way, almost all but straight sections, the hippopotamus dragged the Chinese on a rope.

When towing, there were difficulties on the bypass roads: trees and everything else were slippery and fell through. But we coped with bad weather and breakdowns, and came out worthy winners. Minus: our girls were wet and frozen, which is why there are almost no photos of the way back, thanks to them for the ones we have. They are great guys - our fighting friends. We have a blast, but they endure and smile. Here it is - the last puddle and that's it, then almost Kutuzovsky, and behind it the asphalt, in a word - civilization.

Farewell glance.

We take an inhabitant of the Karelian taiga.

Having left for the open space, for some reason the rain stopped and the sun began to peek through the clouds. Together we reached Alexander Petrovich to check the Chinese. After inspection and slight adjustment of the alignment, it was concluded that the welded rod was much steeper than the old one. Petrovich kindly invited us to spend the night and take a steam bath in the bathhouse. Many thanks to him for this. In the morning, not surprisingly, clean and rested, full of energy, one might say. Having said goodbye to Petrovich’s family, we drove home, 870 km away. . Yes, post your phone number and information about Petrovich, he suggested, saying that your guys travel often, you never know, I’ll always help. Call.

We're going home

1. Road Moscow - Vytegra - Demon's Nose 2.5 days with breakdowns and sloppiness.

2.Nature exploration of the surroundings of Besa and rest 2.5 days

3. Road Demon Nose - Karshevo village 6 hours.

4. Village road. Krasnoborsky - Moscow 16 hours, with rest, car washing, sloppiness.

CAR BREAKDOWNS.

CHINA steering rod, stabilizer link, screw, broken wheel drive, scratches and dents as expected.

HIPPOPOTAMUS additional light, the bumper died, the rear calipers are wedge, they got a little wet, the plug on the belly came off, I gave the generator a drink and the current sobered up for 100 km. from Vytegra, torn wires and tubes on the bottom.

All cars reached Moscow under their own power. The crews are alive and well and preparing for new journeys.

PS Dear fellow club members and jeepers of other clubs, a huge request in such protected places, and in any, use corrosion protection and don’t be lazy. And pick up trash after yourself. It's just a wish.

All the best, good luck in the open spaces without roads.

Besov Nos - cape on east coast Lake Onega, 1.5 km north of the confluence of the Black River into Lake Onega.

General information

The cape is famous for its petroglyphs, among which stands out an anthropomorphic image called a “demon”, about 2.30 m long, which is about 5 thousand years old. The name “demon” was given to the image by pioneering Christian monks in the 16th century. Petroglyphs are classified as archaeological Neolithic monuments. The collection of petroglyphs at Cape Besov Nos is considered the richest in Fennoscandia (Scandinavia and Finland).

About 200 meters from the cape to the west in the lake there is a small rocky island called “Besikha”.

There is a non-working lighthouse on the cape. 1 km east of the cape, on the continent, there are the remains of the abandoned village of Besonosovka. The village ceased to exist in the late 1960s and early 1970s. 15 km to the east on the continent is the village of Karshevo. Besov Nos is connected to Karshevo by a dirt forest road.

Approximately 1 km north of Besov Nos is Cape Peri-Nos. At the same distance to the south is Cape Kladovets.

Cape Besov Nos and adjacent capes are a common place for local fishermen and hunters to visit - from the village of Shalsky - 20 km to the north along the coast of Lake Onega and from Karshev.

The cape was also an important geodetic point and landmark water tourists and yachtsmen, including participants in the Onega Regatta. IN last years Besov Nos also began to be intensively visited by autotourists.

The territory of Cape Besov Nos is a natural and historical reserve.

How to get to Cape Besov Nos

There are five available methods:

Along the Chernaya River, from the village of Karshevo by boat.
The road from the village of Karshevo is about 15 km on foot or by all-terrain vehicle.
Along Lake Onega by boat along the shore from the village of Shalsky.
Along the shore of Lake Onega from the village of Shalsky it is about 15 km on foot or by all-terrain vehicle.

5. By all-terrain vehicle to the coast along Royal Road near the village of Vytegra, and from there by boat to the cape.

Besov Nos is a cape on the eastern coast of Lake Onega, 1.5 km north of the confluence of the Chernaya River into Lake Onega.

The cape is famous for its petroglyphs, among which stands out an anthropomorphic image called a “demon”, approx. 2.30 m, which is about 5 thousand years old. The name “demon” was given to the image by pioneering Christian monks in the 16th century. Petroglyphs are classified as archaeological Neolithic monuments.

The collection of pertoglyphs of Cape Besov Nos is considered the richest in Finoscandia (Scandinavia and Finland).

In approx. 200 meters from the cape to the west in the lake there is a small rocky island called “Besikha”. There is also an inactive lighthouse on the cape. 1 km. to the east of the cape, on the continent, there are the remains of the abandoned village of Besonosovka. The village ceased to exist in the late 1960s and early 1970s. 15 km. to the east on the continent is the village of Karshevo. Besov Nos is connected to Karshevo by a dirt forest road.

Approximately 1 km. To the north of Besov Nos there is Cape Peri-Nos. At the same distance to the south is Cape Kladovets. Cape Besov Nos and adjacent capes are a common place for local fishermen and hunters to visit - from the village of Shalsky - 20 km to the north along the coast of Lake Onega and from Karshevo.

For decades, Besov Nos has been the target of constant expeditions of archaeological units of the Karelian branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences, as well as archaeological scientists from Scandinavia and other European countries. The cape was also an important geodetic point and landmark for water tourists and yachtsmen, including participants in the Onega Regatta. In recent years, Besov Nos has also begun to be intensively visited by autotourists.

The territory of Cape Besov Nos is a natural and historical reserve.

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