Lee in Kalmykia. Kalmykia and its inhabitants: a view from the outside. Troitskoye - an interesting village in Kalmykia

Elista is the capital of the Republic of Kalmykia and is considered the chess capital of Russia. Everything here is imbued with the spirit of chess, and many of the city’s attractions are connected specifically with chess. Elista often hosts major international chess tournaments with the participation of the most famous chess grandmasters in the world. And Elista, together with Ulan-Ude, is one of the largest Buddhist centers in Russia. Today I will show you this glorious city. 2. Elista was founded in 1865. And nine years earlier, Russian Emperor Nicholas II, by his decree, ordered the planting of forests on the Kalmyk steppes. Naturally, there was a need for people who would do this. The founder of Elista is considered to be Stepan Prokopyevich Kiykov, a former serf. In 1862, he built the first house on the territory of modern Elista. In 1865 it was already a small village consisting of 10 households. 3. Monument to the hero of the Patriotic War of 1812, commander of the second Astrakhan Kalmyk regiment, Prince Serbedzhab Tyumen. It is installed at the entrance to the city from the eastern side. 4. South Gate Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni. They are built in traditional oriental style and painted in three colors - red, blue and gold. The gate looks very beautiful and solemn, because according to Buddhist traditions, it is the South Gate that is considered the main entrance to the territory of the Golden Monastery. 5. Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni. Buryatia is usually considered the center of Buddhism in Russia. But the biggest Buddhist temple (not only Russia, but also Europe) is located in Kalmykia, in the center of Elista. The building is shaped like a mandala and seems to float in space, surrounded by a fence with many white stupas. Tsagan Aav is translated from the Kalmyk language as “White Elder”. It is a symbol of eternity, purity, harmony and unity. 24. Golden Buddha Pagoda in Druzhba Park. This is the only example where the statue was installed on the street, and not in the premises of a Buddhist temple. The statue of Shakyamuni Buddha is enclosed inside a hexagonal rotunda - a pagoda. The statue is made of white marble. But, in the last year, Buddha is covered with a yellow robe. 25. 26. Tree of wishes, lovers come here and leave locks 27. 28. House of Soviets. Built in 1928-1932. as a building for the regional Kalmyk committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks. Architectural monument of federal significance. Currently, the building houses the First Building of Kalmyk University. 29. 30. Cinema 31. Monument to A.S. Pushkin. Probably, there are monuments to Pushkin and Lenin in everyone Russian city) 32. 33. 34. Monument to Dzhangarchi Eelyan Ovla, Kalmyk Dzhangarchi, that is, singer and storyteller. From him the Kalmyk people heard songs from the folklore work “Dzhangar” for the first time. This is the most famous Kalmyk epic, known throughout the world. Eelyan Ovl came from a family of storytellers; from childhood he was trained to become a dzhangarchi and taught to sing epic songs to people. In 1908, the scientist Nomto Ochirov recorded all the songs performed by Eelyan. 35. In front of the Elista Hotel building there is a sculpture “Dragon Lu” - a large stone statue depicting a lying dragon, stylized in an oriental manner. The sculpture was created by the famous Tuvan sculptor Kh. Dongak. He created his sculpture according to all the canons of the ancient art of Tuvan stone carving. The material was greenish agalmolite, a beautiful fine-grained stone. 36."Avenue of Heroes". The central figure of the composition is a bronze monument to the legendary Kalmyk military leader Lieutenant General Basan Badminovich Gorodovikov. Behind the monument there are two memorial walls with bronze bas-reliefs of twenty-four Heroes of the Soviet Union and Russia and thirty-three Heroes of Socialist Labor, who are in some way connected with the Republic of Kalmykia. 37. 38. 39. I haven’t seen this for about twenty years, and only in the movies :) 40. In 1998, the city of Chess (City Chess) was built in Elista, which was opened for the 33rd World Chess Olympiad . The official literary name of City Chessa is New Vasyuki. 41. Ostap Bender and 12 chairs. The first monument to this famous character was erected here. The author of the sculpture was the architect A. Khachaturian. He portrayed the son of a Turkish citizen - Ostap Ibrahimovich Bender Bey. He is dressed in his usual suit - smart trousers and boots. The jacket is open, a scarf is carelessly wrapped around the neck, and a cap is on the head. The right hand of the bronze Ostap lies in his trouser pocket, and in his left hand he holds a chess piece - a knight. The monument was erected in the new City Chess microdistrict - the new chess capital. 42. In the center of City Chessa there is the Mikhail Tal Museum of Chess Glory. Initially, the museum was opened as a chess museum, and it became the only museum of this kind in the world. The museum consists of two parts. The first contains an exhibition entirely dedicated to chess: various chess tournaments and chess players; interesting chess boards and pieces, cups, winners’ trophies, paintings, and documents are also presented here. In the second part you can see the personal belongings of Mikhail Tal himself; there are about 3000 of them. In the museum you can always play chess; tables with boards are placed in special game rooms, which are never empty.

There is an expression - the eye is blurry. When you observe one situation day after day, year after year, you stop noticing its features. And yet they exist. Residents of Kalmykia who permanently live in the republic find it difficult to objectively evaluate themselves, their actions, their behavior in everyday life, “in public.” This requires a fresh look. It was just such an “uncontaminated” vision of the features of our steppe region that was shared with the editors of SM by a person who recently came here for the first time and lived in Kalmykia for two weeks. We publish his impressions with minimal literary processing.

Will!

I had the opportunity to live and work in different regions Russia. Of course, everywhere has its own peculiarity. For example, the Tambov region is distinguished by dense forests along the roads, they even put pressure on you with their gloominess. Altai is beautiful in its pristineness and purity - but it’s different there, there are hills and mountains. Very beautiful. Katun alone is worth it. The places near Kaliningrad are unique: the cocktail of sea and forest air is indescribable.

By the way, if we talk about the air, my saddest memories are of industrial Lipetsk: it’s unclear how people live there in such a toxic atmosphere.

The Siberian taiga is a special topic here. One of my friends grew up there, but has lived in big city, so he spends his vacation in the taiga. A backpack, a gun over your shoulders - and there you go.

And in the Astrakhan region, I once met an eccentric Muscovite pensioner: a person gets tired of the metropolitan noise and din, so in August he takes a train to Volgograd, there he assembles his homemade boat and, right up to October, gradually rafts to the Volga delta. He fishes and lives on self-feeding.

However, I’m talking more about the characteristics of people than about regions.

What first struck you about your places was their open spaces. For two weeks I lived not only in Elista, I traveled to the districts several times, and the vastness, the vast breadth, was always breathtaking. Everywhere you look there is a steppe. Breathe easily, deeply. One word - will!

It’s a pity that I didn’t see the tulips blooming: my new friends in Elista claim that the spectacle is simply unforgettable, people from the most distant places. They showed me photographs, and I promised myself: I will definitely try to come here during the blooming period of these beautiful flowers.

Law of the steppe

I did not find any particular differences between the rural and urban populations in Kalmykia. Perhaps the villagers are easier to communicate with. Like everywhere else. And they are also very hospitable. It doesn’t matter that they are seeing you for the first time - they will definitely seat you at the table, offer you something to eat, drink dzhomby (a kind of drink, I liked it). They explained to me that this is the law of the steppe: if today you do not shelter a random traveler, tomorrow they may not open the door for you. Moreover, nationality does not play a role here. A wonderful law, everyone should live like this.

My impressions of Kalmyk cuisine are, admittedly, ambivalent. There were some things I immediately liked, some I had to give up – it was an unusual taste. Let's say, at the same dotour, revered by everyone here. I wanted to try the famous cur, but it is not prepared often, and the pleasure is not cheap.

By the way, the legend about this dish has sunk into my soul. Allegedly, the shepherd-sheep breeders came up with the idea: the khan will come with an “inspection” - they say, are the shepherds stealing my sheep, and they have a fire burning in the parking lot, the food is the most unpretentious. In fact, meat is cooked under the fire, in a lamb's stomach. It's a brilliant idea!

There are few fat people, people are mostly slender and lean. They dress beautifully, with good taste, especially the women. They explained to me: it’s better for a Kalmyk woman to be undernourished, but she will go “all out of herself” in front of people.

It's scary, it's creepy...

But what I was frankly afraid of at first was the traffic in Elista. It would seem that the town is small, provincial, the roads are not wide, there is nowhere to accelerate, but how the local drivers drive! Especially minibuses. It is clear that their owners want to make money, so in the framework of fierce competition, drivers try to intercept passengers. But you also have to think about safety. Moreover, the statistics on road accidents in Kalmykia are very sad. And drivers are also honking their horns desperately. As if in the rules traffic lifted the ban on sound signals in populated areas. It’s unclear where the local traffic cops are looking.

Although, no, it’s just understandable. My new friend, Mergen, explained:

– Our town is small, everyone knows each other. Kalmyks have all relatives up to the seventh generation. If a traffic cop stops a violator, he is “one of his own”: either distant relatives, or a neighbor, or a regiment. Try it, punish me. In general, their own relatives will then eat for a relative. It's hard to be a traffic cop here.

But how beautifully the traffic police officers stand at intersections: their bellies stick out, hands on hips, impudent faces. Not just the king of the roads - the master of life!

However, they are the same everywhere. Of the former Soviet republics, it was only in Belarus that the “father” pinned them down: there, everyone who wears cop shoulder straps treats citizens exclusively in a civilized, European way, and categorically refuses bribes. No one wants to sit on a bunk or lose their place. But for Lukashenko it’s easy.

Secretary nails

Due to necessity, during my business trip to you I had to visit more than one official institution. I was struck by this feature: none of the officials want to take responsibility for making decisions. Even the most trivial thing. What on earth do you get paid for? Until you reach the most important thing, you can’t expect the desired result.

And getting to the authorities is not at all easy: an army of well-trained secretaries guards the peace of the management like a shrine. They can openly lie to you: “He’s at a meeting at the ministry.” You step aside, smoke a couple of cigarettes, and you see the right “big” man coming out of his office.

We should make nails out of your secretaries...

“There was no signal from the Kremlin”

What was frankly striking was the price list for bribes for employment. Almost every ordinary Elista citizen knows how much to give per paw for a good place. Moreover, the prices are almost Moscow, from 300 thousand rubles and more. Even after graduating from the most prestigious university in the capital, it’s impossible to just get a job, they say, you definitely have to “grease up.” However, as the same Mergen said, if there is no money, the issue is resolved “the Kalmyk way” - in the necessary structures they look for relatives who can help.

– So what, you don’t have any regulatory authorities or security forces working here at all? – I asked naively.

– You know, I have a friend from the FSB, I somehow teased him: why do you get such good money? And he answers: “Yes, we know everything. We have incriminating evidence on almost any local official, right up to the very top. It’s just that there hasn’t been a signal from the Kremlin yet.”

I wonder: will they wait for this “go-ahead” in Kalmykia?

“Kalmyk doesn’t eat grass”

From my observations, purely everyday ones. In Elista stores, I have never heard the words “please” or “be kind” from customers. Another, categorical one is pronounced: “Give!”

If you meet acquaintances on the street, they stop to chat right where they saw each other. They don't care if they interfere with the movement of other people. Mergen jokes: “This is purely ours, local: they say, the steppe is wide - you can go around it.”

More than once I have observed examples of respectful attitude of young people towards the older generation: they will give up their seat in a minibus, and they will show politeness on the street. You don't see this everywhere today.

Quite a lot of mixed marriages. Such families produce wonderfully beautiful children!

About responsibility for little ones. I was told such a case. A young family broke up - the husband drank heavily. Two children were left with a mother who, let’s say, is by no means rich. So, the mother of that drunkard husband has been supporting her grandchildren for many years, helping them financially. And they treat her with respect and love, despite the collapse of the family.

No matter how wealthy people are, they cannot sit at the table without meat. Which, in general, is understandable - the peculiarities of the region. Mergen smiles: “Kalmyks don’t eat grass.”

Don't anger God

I was looking through the Kalmyk press and, to be honest, I didn’t quite understand why the so-called opposition is so zealously attacking your head of the republic, Alexei Orlov. The local standard of living, believe me, is not so bad. You haven’t seen how poorly residents of many other regions are forced to live, and those located much closer to Moscow. In the same Central Black Earth Region. In Tambov villages, closer to winter, a huge pile of firewood is still lined up next to each house - there is no way to install gas.

One of the simplest indicators: look at what your car owners drive - if not a foreign car, then a completely new Kalina. And, for example, in the Belgorod region, Oryol region, especially in the rural outback, you won’t surprise anyone with old “Muscovites” and even “Cossacks”. In the Tver province they ride around on decrepit motorcycles even in winter.

So, guys, don’t anger God, as they say.

For myself, I came to the following conclusion: most likely, your Orlov “ran across the road” of one of the locals, so they ordered him to spread rot in the media. Not for free, of course.

But in general, I liked Kalmykia. The region is unique, even, I would say, exotic. I'll be happy to come here again if I have a chance.

Sergey KRINITSYN

The history of the Kalmyks as a people begins at the end of the 16th century, when the Oirat tribes were divided into three parts, one of which moved from Central Asia to the territory modern republic Kalmykia, where it consolidated as part of Russia in 1609.

The first time was accompanied by frequent wars, including internecine wars, changes in borders and nomadic movements. Periodically, Kalmyks swear allegiance to Russia, but often violate agreements by attacking Russians. But around the end of the 18th century it begins quiet life within Russia.

In 1917, the so-called Steppe Region of the Kalmyk people was formed, and in 1920 - the Kalmyk Autonomous Region, which 15 years later was transformed into the Kalmyk Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic.

1943 was one of the darkest years in the history of the Kalmyks - the Kalmyk Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic was abolished, its territory was transferred to the Astrakhan region, and almost all Kalmyks were deported (mainly to Siberia).

Only 14 years later did the Kalmyks return to their homeland, and in 1958 the Kalmyk Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic was restored, which in 1992 was renamed the Republic of Kalmykia.

Geography and climate of Kalmykia

Republic of Kalmykia has many neighbors, in the south - the Stavropol Territory and the Republic of Dagestan, in the east - the Astrakhan region, in the west - Rostov, and in the north - the Volgograd region. Part of the southeastern territory is washed by the Caspian Sea.

The flat territory of the region is mainly covered with endless steppes, semi-deserts and deserts.

The Caspian Sea is not the only water resource republics. In one of the places, Kalmykia, with a narrow ledge, opens up to the Volga - there is the city of Tsagan Aman, in addition to this, the Kuma and Manych rivers flow on the territory of the republic. There are also lakes on the territory of Kalmykia: Sarpinsky Lakes, Yashalta Salt Lake and Sostinsky Lakes.

The climate of the Republic of Kalmykia is sharply continental. Its features are hot and dry summers, as well as little snow and not the coldest winters (although sometimes the temperature in winter drops significantly). In addition to low precipitation and aridity, a feature of the climate is constant winds.

Nature of Kalmykia

IN Republic of Kalmykia There are practically no forests and most of the fauna and flora are steppe representatives.

First of all, among them it is worth noting various rodents (gophers, marmots) and saigas, for the protection of which the Black Lands Nature Reserve was created. In addition to them, you can find brown hares, hedgehogs, jerboas and corsacs here. The flora here is represented by truly steppe and desert plants: feather grass, wormwood, camel thorn, cornflowers and Schrenck's tulips.

The second section of this reserve also protects numerous populations of various birds: pelicans, swans, greylag geese, bustards, cranes, gulls, swallows and others.

Population and economy of Kalmykia

There are three cities in the republic: Elista, Lagan and Gorodovikovsk and 13 administrative districts. Total population– less than 300 thousand people. As you would expect, the majority of the population is Kalmyks, and there are also many Russians. Other nationalities are also represented, mainly residents of other southern republics.

The economy of the Republic of Kalmykia is poorly developed, industry is mainly concentrated in the extraction of minerals (oil and natural gas), mechanical engineering, metalworking and the production of building materials are present.

Rural population engaged in the cultivation of grain crops, vegetables and melons, as well as livestock breeding and wool production.

Culture and religion of Kalmykia

Kalmyks have a very interesting and distinctive culture associated with their Asian roots. Religion is also unusual for Russia; the Republic of Kalmykia is one of three regions where Buddhism is preached. Moreover, what is interesting is that the pagan beliefs of the Kalmyks are closely intertwined with Buddhism, not contradicting the teachings of Buddha, but, on the contrary, complementing it.

The Kalmyks also have their own folklore and epic - “Dzhangar”, where the poems tell about the land of the immortals and its inhabitants, powerful heroes. Dzhangarchi (as those who performed folk songs were called) have always enjoyed enormous popularity among the people. But even now Kalmyks do not forget their culture: in Elista there are many monuments dedicated to the heroes of “Dzhangar”: the Golden Horseman, the monument to Dzhangar, Khongor (heroes of the epic) and other sculptural images.

The focus of this article will be the Republic of Kalmykia. The capital of this region, Elista, is completely different from other Russian cities. It’s worth coming here if only to get acquainted with the enchanting world of Buddhist wisdom. Kalmykia cannot yet be called a tourist paradise, but the region is steadily developing, new hotels are appearing. In this land of ancient nomads, you can live in a real tent, see herds of wild horses, and ride a camel. Read about how to get to the Republic of Kalmykia, where to stay, what to see and try, and what to bring with you as a souvenir. We will also highlight complicated story steppe people and their modern way of life.

Location

The Republic of Kalmykia is located in the European part of the Russian Federation. In the south it borders with the Stavropol Territory. However, the majority of the indigenous population of the republic professes Buddhism. This is what makes Kalmykia so interesting. You don't need to fly to Thailand or Mongolia to see pagodas, prayer stupas and sculptures of Buddha sitting in meditation. All this is in Elista. Kalmykia, located in the south of the Russian Federation, is quite large. Its area of ​​seventy-six thousand square kilometers is larger than the territory of Belgium, Switzerland, the Netherlands or Denmark. It extends from south to north for four hundred and fifty-eight kilometers, and from east to west - 423 km. In the south, the natural borders of the republic are the Kuma and Manych rivers. In the southeast it is washed by the Caspian Sea. From the northeast, the territory of Kalmykia approaches the Volga. And in the northwestern part it is limited by the Ergeninskaya Upland.

Climate

Due to its large territory located in three natural areas- deserts, semi-deserts and steppes. The terrain here is predominantly flat, and therefore there are frequent strong winds, sometimes developing into dry winds. The climate in the republic is continental. Temperatures in summer can reach +42 degrees. Winters have little snow, but bitter frosts. The continental climate increases sharply from west to east. But in the south of the republic average temperature January reaches only minus eight degrees Celsius. The coldest winter is in the northeastern regions. There frosts can reach -35 degrees Celsius and below. But the republic can boast a huge amount clear days. The sun shines here about 184 days a year. This is also associated with a long warm period - 250-270 days. And although the average temperature in July is only +24.5 °C, maximums are not uncommon. Without exaggeration, we can say that this subject of the Russian Federation disputes Volgograd region title of the hottest region.

Economy

On the territory of the republic there are deposits belonging to the Caspian province of the oil and gas reservoir. The Ermolinsky and Burulsky wells are currently in operation. Wind energy resources have great potential for the development of the region. The government of Kalmykia is taking the first steps towards ensuring that the movement of air masses does not cause damage to agriculture, but brings benefits. In particular, Kalmykskaya is currently being built. A big problem for agriculture is that there is little precipitation - about two hundred to three hundred millimeters per year. Therefore, reservoirs are important for agriculture. The largest of them, Chograyskoye, is located on the border of the Stavropol Territory.

Rivers and lakes of Kalmykia

The sandy coast of the Caspian Sea, replete with small bays, represents enormous potential for the development of tourism in Kalmykia. Alas, it is not used yet. The Volga crosses the territory of the republic only on a twelve-kilometer section. Other freshwater arteries are the Kuma (it separates Kalmykia from Dagestan), Eastern and Western Manych, and Yegorlyk. Most of the rivers in Kalmykia are small, drying up in summer, and at other times carrying bitter-salty water. Therefore, the main landscapes in the republic are dry steppes and semi-deserts. However, we cannot fail to mention the lakes for which Kalmykia is famous. You've probably already seen a photo of the Big Yashalta Lake. Medicinal properties its waters are surpassed only by the Dead Sea. So far, only one treatment center is located on its shores. It was built recently and, probably, other similar institutions will be built here soon. After all, people come to the still wild shore of the lake to treat a lot of diseases - from respiratory to reproductive.

It is impossible to pass over in silence, covered with legends. It received its name because of the wind that makes mournful, frightening sounds over the surface. The nesting areas for waterfowl are Deed-Khulsun. Other important lakes are Sostinsky and Sarpinsky, Maloe Yashaltinskoye.

Flora and fauna of Kalmykia

Kalmykia, whose photos often depict endless steppes and semi-deserts, is the most treeless region in the entire Russian Federation. The vegetation here is represented by feather grass, tumbleweed, and other species adapted to the arid climate and brackish soils. About one hundred and thirty species of birds nest on the lakes of the republic. Twenty-three of them are listed in the Red Book of the Russian Federation. But what Kalmykia is famous for is the fact that the only saiga population in Europe lives on its territory. To protect this endangered species from complete extinction, the Black Lands Nature Reserve was established in 1990. It stretches between the Kuma and Volga over an area of ​​one hundred and twenty thousand hectares. The lake Manych-Gudilo, already mentioned by us, with twelve islands is also located here. Tourists come here to see the nesting places of swans, bustards, Dalmatian pelicans, and also to watch herds of wild horses running. It’s good to be on Manych-Gudilo in windy weather. Then giant waves (up to 12 meters high!) roll across the lake. And the wind howls so much that it seems that all the evil spirits from Kalmyk legends have flown here for the Sabbath. True, there are no tourist centers on the shore of the lake yet. Accommodation is possible only in the private sector of the village of Yashalta or in guest houses of the reserve.

Population of Kalmykia

According to Rosstat data for 2015, two hundred eighty and a half thousand people live in the republic. And in the 2010 Census this figure was 289,481. This decrease in population is explained by internal migration. But in last years this outflow has decreased. Kalmykia is gradually ceasing to be. Taking into account the huge territory of the republic, we can judge that it is small here: about four people per square kilometer. Urban residents make up forty-five percent of all residents of the region. And if we remember that in the Republic of Kalmykia the capital has a population of 103,730 people, it turns out that the population density is even less. In addition to Elista, there are two more cities - Lagan and Gorodovikovsk. According to the 2010 Census, the ethnic composition in the republic is as follows: the majority (57%) are Kalmyks, 33% are Russians, the remaining 10% are other nationalities.

Authorities

The People's Khural of the Republic adopts laws and acts. This Parliament includes twenty-seven deputies. The Khural represents the legislative branch. The highest official is the Head of the Republic. He heads the executive branch and forms the Government of Kalmykia. For seventeen years, the Head of the Republic was Kirsan Nikolaevich Ilyumzhinov. This man did a lot to ensure that Kalmykia, the capital Elista and other cities and villages acquired a European appearance. In 2010, he was replaced in this post, on the recommendation of the President of the Russian Federation V.V. Putin, by Alexey Maratovich Orlov.

History of the region

It is not simple and sometimes tragic. Various peoples roamed these steppes. Cimmerians, Sarmatians and Scythians, as well as Khazars, Huns, Cumans and Pechenegs replaced each other, leaving behind mounds and remains of ancient settlements. This explains such a diverse culture of Kalmykia. In the 13th century, these lands were part of the Golden Horde. More than two hundred cultural and historical monuments have been preserved in Kalmykia. Five of them are protected Russian Federation. The Kalmyk people, just like the Crimean Tatars, became victims of deportation. By order of Stalin, people were evicted from their native villages. Thousands of them never returned home. The “Exodus and Return” memorial, made by Ernest Neizvestny, is dedicated to these tragic pages in the history of the Kalmyk people. The monument is located in Elista.

Modern culture is inextricably linked with the dominant religion in the Republic. After all, Kalmyks are the only people in Europe who profess Buddhism. Everywhere here you can find khuruls - characteristic Lamaist complexes. For a long time, Kalmyks were forbidden to practice their religion. There was not a single functioning temple, and the old ones were being destroyed. The most ancient of the surviving ones is the khurul in the village of Tsagan-Aman, dating back to the beginning of the 20th century.

How to get there

The capital of Elista receives most of the guests of the Republic of Kalmykia. There is one airport in the city. He accepts regular flights from Moscow, Stavropol, Rostov-on-Don and Mineralnye Vody. Travel by bus from the capital of the Russian Federation, although it will cost less than a plane (1800 rubles), but lasts more than a day. To get to Elista by train, you first need to get to Stavropol. There you should change to another train moving along the line from the Divnoye station. From Stavropol to Elista you will spend eight hours on the road if you choose ground transport. Bus service also connects the capital of Kalmykia with Volgograd and Astrakhan.

Elista

This city is called the Buddhist capital. It was founded at the end of the nineteenth century. The capital of Kalmykia is Elista - small town. Only one hundred thousand people live in it. Therefore, to get to know him, you can rely on your own feet. Although minibuses are constantly scurrying around the city, there are no traffic jams in the city. The color of Elista fascinates tourists. The abundance of prayer stupas and Buddhist temples is especially striking. It is recommended to visit the Golden Abode of Shakyamuni. This is the largest Buddhist temple in Europe. It consists of seven levels. It is decorated with a twelve-meter statue of the Enlightened One, covered with inlay with real diamonds. The temple contains holy relics: for example, the clothes of the Dalai Lama from the 14th century. The Seven Days Pagoda has a two-meter prayer drum from a tantric monastery in India. It has mantras written in gold letters in several languages.

What to try and what to buy

Prices in restaurants and cafes in Elista are reasonable. On average, lunch will cost three hundred to four hundred rubles. Be sure to try the “berigi” dumplings, “bortsoki” fried pies, offal soup, lamb and “dzhomba” tea.

In memory of the Republic of Kalmykia, the capital offers a wide variety of souvenirs. These are mainly clothes made of camel wool and felt products - for example, yurt boxes. You need to visit a special area of ​​Elista - City Chess. Everything here is dedicated to chess. And on the main street of the mini-town - Ostap Bender Avenue, there is a monument to the Great Schemer. City Chess was built by Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, former and also President of the International Chess Association.

Here they study chess at school, drink salty tea in the morning, and say prayers while turning an iron wheel. Religion, food and culture in Kalmykia are so different from the norms familiar to Russians that it’s worth at least once to look at it with your own eyes, says Rais Gabitov from Bashkiria in his LiveJournal.

At the same time, Kalmyks speak such pure Russian that they are even hired as announcers on central television. Incredibly, this is not somewhere near Mongolia, but in the south of the European part of Russia, between the Rostov and Astrakhan regions.

1. The largest Buddhist temple in Europe

This temple is called "Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni", it is in Elista, the capital of Kalmykia, consecrated in 2005.

It looks extremely exotic. They say that tourists traveling from Siberia to the Black Sea take pictures in front of it and post it on Instagram as if they were in Thailand).


2. Buddhism

Kalmyks are Buddhists. I think it's cool. A very ancient and beautiful religion.

For example, a prayer wheel, "khurde". Each of them contains thousands of pieces of paper with prayers, and when you spin them, you pray to God many hundreds of thousands of times. You need to take the handle and walk in a circle three times.

3. Chess is a folk sport

If Buddhism is the religious faith of the Kalmyks, then chess is a secular faith.

On the central square of Elista, townspeople play chess. Chess is one of the school subjects (!) in Kalmykia.

But most likely, the popularity of this sport is associated with the personality of Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, who headed Kalmykia from 1993 to 2010. Kirsan became the republic's chess champion in the 9th grade, and in 1995 he headed FIDE, the international chess federation.

4. City Chess - chess city

Kirsan Ilyumzhinov is the same person who managed to realize Ostap Bender’s dream and build “New Vasyuki” in the Volga steppe.

Many personal belongings of Michal Tal, the eighth world champion with eight fingers. Tal had 8 fingers from birth (so it’s very easy to remember what kind of world champion he was).

I visited Kalmykia with the Volga Expedition.


5. "Kalmyk does not eat grass"

Almost everyone who visited Kalmykia first of all advised trying the local food.

The cuisine of the Kalmyks, who were cattle breeders and nomads, is meat and dairy. Kalmyks make lamb dishes best.

Cure. Only a master can make this dish. The sheep is cut up, its meat is placed in its stomach with seasonings, it is buried in an earthen hole and a fire is made on top. After many, many hours, lamb stewed in its own juices becomes tender, like stew.

There is also makhan sheltyagan and shulun- boiled lamb and broth, as well as final tour- a dish made from entrails. You can try all this in the Oirat cuisine restaurant “Legend”.

Remember: Dzhomba - tea with milk, butter, salt and nutmeg. Börigi- something like dumplings with lamb and wrestlers- flatbreads fried in boiling oil. This is incredibly delicious.

I was given Kalmyk tea, which I will brew in a larger cauldron and treat to friends in nature.

6. Steppe

A flat space with a straight line to the horizon, filled with the dry smells of burnt grass and tumbleweeds. The steppe is the place where Kalmyks live, an integral symbol of the internal, archetypal awareness of the nation.

7. Tulips blooming

8. Monument to Ostap Bender

9. Lonely Tree in the Steppe

I was personally convinced of this. I drove for half a day in 35 degree heat from Volgorad to Elista, I was very tired and on nerves. Touching the poplar and being silent, I felt the extraordinary calm and strength that emanated from its rough bark. It was at this moment that I realized that Kalmykia would become one of the most amazing discoveries of the expedition.

10. Kalmyks

Kalmyks are very ancient people. Kalmyks - Western Mongols (Oirats) - formed part of the Mongol Empire and were the very famous warriors who once conquered half the world.

But there were also a lot of troubles. Kalmyks were divided several times (some still live in China)
The Kalmyks had four genocides in history! The latter, most recently, during the war, when Stalin deported most of the Kalmyks to Siberia in such carriages. A third of the Kalmyks died.

Famous modern Kalmyks. Do you recognize anyone?

And this is a survey that I conducted on my social networks.

Acknowledgments

My sincere thanks to Vitaly Bokov, who told me the inspiring story of the Oirats and Buddhism, the wonderful Khongor Marilov, director of Kalmyk television, Arkady Sharmanzhinov for the photographs and Kermen Manzhieva, thanks to whom I fell in love with Kalmykia even before I visited it)

And, of course, my deep gratitude to Kermen Utyasheva from the Megafon-Volga region company, who organized meetings and excursions for me.

See you again, friends!

 

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