Climbing Paragilmen: walking and horse riding routes. Mount Paragilmen: route of Crimea for brave people Paragilmen Crimea

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Mount Paragilmen - view in autumn

Paragilmen is a mountain located 2 km northwest of Alushta. It has a maximum height of 871 meters above sea level. It stands apart from the rest of the hills of the Crimean system.

The cliff slopes are very steep. Its top is an ellipse, stretching 480 meters from south to north. It is completely covered with mixed forest. On the very top of Paragilmen's head there are 2 yew trees. One of them has a trunk diameter of 70 cm and a cast shadow radius of 7-8 meters. Of the 30 species of herbs and shrubs that were found on the mountain, 10 are rare and are included in the Red Book. In 1964, Paragilmen was recognized as a natural monument and is still protected by the state.

There are several translation options for the name of the mountain. The name apex is generally accepted to mean “to go beyond something.”

Paragilmen is a natural attraction popular among tourists visiting Alushta. It is known as the filming location for episodes of the film “Hearts of Three.” Runs through the hill hiking trail on mountain . Previously, the above-mentioned path was used for mule caravans. There is a beautiful legend about the Paragilmen rock.

Legend of the Rock

One of the translations of the name of the mountain sounds like “Go for the money.” In ancient times, the Greek Sufrakis the Crooked lived in Lambada, who was so nicknamed because one of his legs was shorter than the other. The Hellene could not walk straight, but walked in zigzags.

One day, residents of the village saw fires on the shore - signals of the approach of pirates. People took their goods, drove out their cattle and went to the mountains to hide the most valuable things. Sufrakis also carried his belongings. Having reached the top, he began to look for a place where he could bury the treasure. I saw a yew tree, walked away from it a little to the west, and then a little to the north, dug a hole and put a jug of coins there.

There was a raid. The pirates had nothing to profit from. They cut down trees and destroyed houses, but found no money. The robbers returned several more times, but were always left without any loot.

We've arrived peaceful times. The residents returned their treasures to their homes and began to live happily. Soufrakis grew old and walked poorly. He sent his sons to the mountain, but they did not find the treasure. Then the Crooked Greek shouted “Paragilmen” - go get the money and showed how he walked up the mountain. The children could not exactly imitate his gait and again returned with nothing.

Soufrakis died soon after, but even before his death he repeated “Paragilmen! Paragilman! To this day, his descendants come to the mountain and try to find their ancestor’s treasure. Freshly dug holes that are regularly found at the top are clear confirmation of this.

Climbing on the mountain

The steep slopes of Mount Paragilmen are excellent platform for mountaineering. Due to their complexity and high risk of rocks, they are not often visited by professionals. mountain sports. In the 70s of the last century, 4 routes were laid through the rocks of the mountain. They were assigned categories from 2nd to 4th. The mountain consists of 3 massifs:

Western, destroyed and overgrown with trees. A category 1B route runs along its right monolithic part.
Central, limited by couloir corners. There are routes of 2-4 difficulty categories along it.
Eastern. Characterized by a wide variety of obstacles, with routes of 3-4 categories.

It is believed that the difficulty is greatly underestimated and in fact some “fours” fully meet the criteria of “fives”. The decrease occurred due to the fact that the routes were laid by the best athletes of the USSR, who in their own way assessed the obstacles encountered on the mountain.

While climbing even the easiest routes of Paragilmen, climbers must be as careful as possible, since they are all covered with lichens. After rain, the routes become washed out and very slippery.

Leisure

Alushta equestrian clubs offer city guests rides on Paragilmen. Excursions to the mountain are made by prior arrangement and take place all day: from 8 am to 5-6 pm. During the promenades, tourists view the peak, the view from it of nearby cities, a mountain lake, vineyards and other attractions in the vicinity of Alushta.

Horse promenades are available to unprepared tourists and children over 6 years old. Excursions are conducted in groups of up to 8 people, accompanied by experienced instructors who explain how to handle a horse and tell legends about Paragilmen.

Alushta cycling clubs regularly organize trips to visit famous mountain, with stops at its top, a lake at the foot of the cliff and swimming on the nearest beach. Such excursions are also suitable for experienced fans. active rest and those who have never ridden a bicycle.

To view the mountain from above, paragliding flights are available in Alushta active recreation clubs. From a height of 800-1000 meters above sea level, all the slopes and hard-to-reach places of the peak are visible.

How to get there?

On foot . No one leads to the mountain highway, so you can only climb to the top of Paragilmen on foot. From Alushta you need to go along the Bakhchisarai highway to the village of Vinogradnoye. In the village, a convenient point for gathering is the parking lot at the Aquatoria theater of marine animals. Near it there is a bus stop on routes No. 30 and 50 “Sanatorium Uzbekistan”. From the square, past the vineyards, mountain lake and the Sharkha quarry a path leads to the top of the mountain. It opens from it beautiful view to Alushta and Yalta.

By transport. To get to the foot of the mountain you need to take a minibus that runs between Yalta and Alushta and get off at the Sharkha Quarry stop. From there you need to move in the direction of the bus. After 500 meters, turn right onto the path that leads to the tourist camps at the foot of the mountain.

The latter are equipped with tables and benches, awnings. At a distance of 200-500 meters from them there are springs with clean drinking water. It's worth stopping at these sites little money(up to 100 rubles per person).

Paragilmen – interesting and unique place, which is definitely worth seeing during a visit to Crimea.

Crimea, Paragilmen

Technical description of routes to the city of Paragilmen. A photo report of passing two routes in April 2010 is attached to the description.

Routes described:

"On the left edge" 2A
"On the right edge" 2B
“Three through the fireplace” 3A
"In the center of the wall" 3B (4A)

Route “On the left edge” 2A

Start of the route

The route starts from the couloir, between the main wall and the ridge along which the “one” passes. From the upper road, follow the path to the couloir, starting from a shelf, about 10 meters below the tree growing on the left side of the buttress.

0-1 Easy climbing, up to the right to the tree, from there continue up to the right, go to the buttress, the relief is rich, blocky. Further up there is a station on the shelf, there are 2 bolts. 40 m III

1-2 Up along the crack, then along the steep inner corner, after it through a small wall, and along simple terrain, to reach a good shelf, here is a station, there are bolts. This is the key rope. 30 m (III, 10 m IV)

2-3 This section can be walked in 2 options - the 1st (more difficult) option is from the station up, under a small cornice, it goes around to the right, further up along the inner corner. At the top, exit the corner to the left and exit onto the shelf. Station on a bolt + your own. 30 m (III, 5 m IV).

2nd option: from the station up to the left, go to the inner corner, along the corner to the flattening, here up to the right, to the station. 35 m (III+)

3-4 From the station up, along the buttress, the climbing is easy, large blocks. The station is on a shelf, there is a bolt. 45 m (II-III)
4-5 Up the buttress to the top of the “shovel” Tree station. 50 m (II+)
5-6 Along the horizontal ridge, easy climbing, reach the yayla. 70 m (I-II)

Beautiful route. To pass you need a 50m rope, loops, friends, large and medium stoppers.

Passing the route.

2 bundles:(Alexander Lavrinenko - Odessa, Tatyana Senchenko - Kiev), (Maxim Kolodyazhny - Nikolaev, Yuri Sobetsky - Poltava)

Paragilmen (panorama)

First rope

Often found on routes, wooden wedges were previously used for belaying.

Exit to a simple ridge

Extreme rope. Exit to a simple ridge

Route“On the right edge” 2B

The route goes along the right edge of the wall, without going onto the wall. Unfortunately, it is almost invisible in the photograph. You can start the route straight along the edge, or to the left of the edge, along a system of cracks and internal corners, it’s a little more difficult and shorter, about 20 meters, or to the right of the edge from the couloir. The description shows the left start of the route.

0-1 Up the simple rocks, towards the inner corner, then around the corner. At the top of the corner the climbing becomes more difficult. The station is on a shelf in front of a steep wall. There are bolts and pitons. 43m (III, 5m IV)

1-2 Key rope . Up the crevice and enter the inner corner. The angle throws you out, the climbing is difficult. Go around the overhang on the right, up the inside corner. Station on a shelf. There are bolts and pitons. 30m IV (5m V)

2-3 Along the inner corner up, taking it to the right, go out onto the shelf from it up, under the base of the fireplace. Station on bolts and pitons. 45 m (III-IV)

3-4 Up the fireplace 10m, onto the shelf. Go around the next fireplace on the right, along the system of cracks, and move in the direction of the semi-dry tree. Go around the tree on the left, and up, along the crevice, then along the corner, to the top of the “Shovel”. The station is on its own, the relief is rich. 50m (III, 10m IV+)

4-5 From the top of “Shovel”, along the horizontal ridge reach the yayla 70 m (I-II)

A beautiful route, somewhat difficult for two, but easier than the Para-Gilman threes.

(No photos of the route)

Route“Three through the fireplace” 3A

There is a marked path leading downhill from the upper road, which ends in the area of the left two. Before reaching the rock, traverse to the right, about 100 meters, then follow simple rocks to the grassy shelves under the wall.

The beginning of the route is the inner corner.

0-1 Start to the right of the corner, along the flat slab, then to the left, into the corner, and up along the system of internal corners. Station on a shelf. There is a bolt and a hook. 35m 5v

1-2 From the station up, along the right wall of the corner, not reaching the cornice, go to the left, into the white inner corner. Go up the corner and go under the overhanging wall. It's convenient to make a station here. 25 m 6a

2-3 Then there are 2 options: 1) From the traverse station to the right, 5-7 m, enter the fireplace, further up the fireplace, go around the plug along the left wall, then again along the fireplace, exit onto the shelf with the tree. 45 m 5с/6а
2) From the station straight up, along the overhanging gap, 10m, then enter the fireplace, continue as in the previous version. (6a+)

3-4 From the tree up, along rocks of medium difficulty, reach the top of the “shovel” 60 m 3-4.

4-5 Along the ridge, which is sharp in places, it will first go down a little, then up, through a small wall, further along the ridge, to reach the yayla. 70m 2-3

Throughout the entire route there are old pitons and bolts.

Required Equipment – bookmarks, average friends.
Average completion time – 3-4 hours.

Route“In the center of the wall” 3B (4A)(blue line in photo)

The route runs along the corners of the center of the wall, turning to the right in the upper third, leading to the top of “Shovel”. The route is much more difficult than the classic three. It starts in the same place, but after the first corner, it does not go to the left, but goes along the system of internal corners, in the direction of the cornice with a white spot under it.

0-1 Along the gentle rocks to the left and up, enter the inner corner, further along the corner under a narrow fireplace.
Go around the fireplace with a traverse to the right, then up and return to the left, to the system of corners. (It is possible directly through the fireplace, but it is much more difficult.) Further along the corner, the station is on a shelf. There are bolts and pitons. 43m IV (10m V)

1-2 Key rope. Up the parallel cracks, under the overhanging boulder, go around it on the left, the cracks are wide, it is advisable to have several friends or a hex of 6-10 cm (camalots 2, 3). Further up the simpler rocks, under the cornice, there are old bolts. The cornice is broken through by old hooks a meter apart, but you have to climb behind the cornice. A steep crack leads out onto a shelf.
Here is the station, there are 2 hooks. 30 m (V+A1)

2-3 From the station, go up to the right, along the crevice, belaying is easy, the climbing is difficult in places, go out onto a shelf. Station. There is a bolt and a hook. 35m (IV-V)

3-4 From the station 5m to the right, and, along the crack, then along the inner corner, go out to the top of the “shovel”
Tree station. 50 m III-IV

4-5 From the top of “Shovel”, along the horizontal ridge reach the yayla 70m (I-II)

The route is strenuous and requires pitons and large and medium sized rocks. Stations need to be reinforced with their own hardware.

Walking both routes.

2 bundles in parallel:

(Alexander Lavrinenko - Odessa, Tatyana Senchenko - Kiev) - "In the center of the wall" 3B (4A)

(Maxim Kolodyazhny - Nikolaev, Yuri Sobetsky - Poltava) - “Three through the fireplace” 3A

“Three through the fireplace” 3A along a wide gap (left)
“In the center of the wall” 3B (4A) - to the right

Along the crack, to the right of the blotch - the beginning of the route “Troika through the fireplace” 3A

Route “Troika through the fireplace” 3A - passage on the left;
Route “In the center of the wall” 3B (4A) - passing on the right

P.S.

Personal impressions of the ascent participants:

Maksim:“The impression from the triplets we completed was good - a strong route, I would say, even more difficult than many Crimean triplets.”

Yura:“I liked the route, but it was sometimes very tense.”

Tatiana:“On my list of ascents there are about ten completed Crimean fives, but this three (3B/4A) seemed to me more difficult than some of the fives that I had climbed before.”

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Just north of the village of Maly Mayak is the highest limestone outlier of the Main Ridge Crimean mountains Paragilmen. Its walls are so impregnable that climbing at first seems impossible. But there are routes here too.

From afar, the mountain lures travelers with its slopes, curly with an abundance of vegetation, promising to give daredevils a delicious treat from a mixture of fresh cool air and the aromas of numerous trees and shrubs.

“Paraginome” is a Greek word that translates as “going beyond something.” And the object we are considering actually left its ancestral nest - the Main Ridge, breaking away from it in ancient times, during the formation of the relief.

Peculiarities

Paragilmen is shaped like a trapezoid. This giant stretched for half a kilometer from north to south and rushed upward almost 900 meters, appearing as a flat platform before the heavenly kingdom. It is part of Babugan-Yayla and passes through itself the route to highest point Crimea - Roman-Kosh.

Wonderful vegetable world mountains: almost thirty species of trees inhabit its sides and top. About 10 are listed in the Red Book. Junipers predominate, with some endemics occurring. The special pride of this place are the two yew trees at the top. They may well be considered one of the oldest trees of the entire peninsula, as evidenced by their size. The larger one has about 70 centimeters in diameter and about 8 meters in branch span.

The steep slopes are very attractive for climbers and rock climbers. Athletes from Alushta and many other cities, and even countries, come here for rallies and competitions. Trails of varying difficulty attract pros and beginners.

An old tale translates the name of the mountain as “Follow the money.” Unusual, but there is a reason for this.

Once upon a time there lived a certain Sufrakis in Lambada. His fellow villagers nicknamed him Crooked because one leg was longer than the other, and his gait was such a zigzag that it was impossible to understand where he ultimately wanted to go.

And one day trouble happened in the area: the residents learned that pirates would soon attack them. Then they gathered their goods and hastened to take refuge on the mountain. Crooked Sufrakis personally carried the egg capsule to a secluded place on the top and buried it. The robbers burned out the entire settlement, but did not find what was hidden and promised to return.

And so, after more than one decade, when peace was established in Lambada, the old man Soufrakis exclaimed: “Paragilmen (go for the money)!”, and sent three sons for the treasure, indicating its “exact” location, because he personally counted from the huge yew so many steps to the west, and then the same number to the north. But the unfortunate man forgot that he was not walking in the direction he wanted. The poor people dug through the entire mountain, but never found the treasured wealth.

How to get there

To get to the treasures, most often they choose the path from the Alushta-Yalta highway. You need to get off in front of the bridge and go up the asphalt road, turn right and walk along the pipeline to another highway. There is a sign nearby that will lead to the top.

Height – 871 m.

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The beauty of the surroundings of Yalta

Travail9 , 17 Feb 2017

A detailed description of climbing routes to one of the most difficult and infrequently visited mountains in Crimea - Paragilmen. Overview of the area + photos of routes, photos from ascents are also included.

Mount Paragilmen(857 m) is a pointed rocky peak towering above resort village Small Lighthouse. The name of the mountain comes from the Greek “paraginome” - “to go beyond something.”

Paragilmen is located between Alushta and Yalta, near the village of Maly Mayak. Go to the “Sharkha Quarry” stop. From the highway up the road, after 500 meters there will be a path to the right that will lead to the tourist sites under the mountain.

Mount Paragilmen (857 m)

Paragilmen includes three arrays: Western (left) - is a heavily destroyed forested area. Only the far right part is relatively monolithic. Here, along a pronounced buttress, there is a route of the 1st category of difficulty. Central wall bordered on both sides by two huge internal couloir corners. There are at least 4 routes on it, from 2nd to 4th category of difficulty. Right array very diverse: there are vertical walls, walls covered with ivy, local monolithic overhangs, shelves strewn with stones. The length of the climbing routes is about 250 m.

View from the top of Paragilmen

Since the times of the Union, Paragilmen has attracted many climbers, among whom were many honored masters of sports and famous athletes international level. The first Soviet mountaineering competitions were also held on Paragilmen.

During the years of Soviet mountaineering there were many strong masters of sports of international class. The first ascents to this mountain were made by them, so many routes to Paragilmen are very old and quite difficult, because... in those years the categorization of routes was too relative. If, for example, the next USSR Mountaineering Championship was being prepared, then the strongest athletes of that time began preparing the routes at Paragilmen. Therefore, the categories of many routes to Paragilmen are very underestimated. For example, almost all Para-Gilmen “troikas” can be equated to the Crimean “fours” in terms of difficulty of passage. And the rare Para-Gilmen “fours” can be easily compared with the Crimean “fives”.

Climbing routes to Mount Paragilmen

The first Soviet mountaineering training camps in Crimea began in the early 70s.

Several archival photographs from the history of Soviet mountaineering in Crimea. Paragilmen 1978

Crimea, Paragilmen, photo 1978

Climbing training under Mount Paragilmen. 70s

Climbing to the top of Paragilmen

Climbing to the top of Paragilmen. In the photo: a team of 2 people working on a rocky, steep ridge

Now short review climbing routes to Mount Paragilmen, which are popular these days:

The route (on the left) is the easiest and is classified as category 1B.

The route passes along a picturesque buttress (the western ridge of the massif) with gentle rocks, the length of the route is 250 m, the rocks are not difficult to pass, so the route does not require rock climbing or mountaineering experience.

Route 2A along the left edge of the wall (“left deuce”) is located next to route 1B. This is a beautiful and easy two-way hike with a viewing ridge at the culmination of the route. The dots mark the proposed stations on the route; unlike 1B, the terrain here is poorer in vegetation and protrusions. Total length about 350 m, climbed in 7 pitches/stations.

The first route (on the left) is the easiest, classified as category 1B, and runs along the western ridge of the massif. The second route (on the right) - 2A along the left edge of the wall (“left deuce”), is located adjacent to the first route.

The next most difficult is ( ).

Quite a difficult triple, despite the fact that it is categorized as 3A. It's more like a simple 4A. Called ( Photo of the route thread, see above in the text).

Personal impressions of the ascent participants:

Maksim:“The impression from the triplets we completed was good - a strong route, I would say, even more difficult than many Crimean triplets.”

Yura:“I liked the route, but it was sometimes very tense.”

A very complex and intense “four”, although it was recently categorized as 3B - 3B (4A), ( Photo of the route thread, see above in the text).

A little history. The route is very beautiful and logical in its own way. There are four difficult pitches, which is why it is considered the 4th (at one time Fantik was all difficult routes less than five ropes long called fours), but this is a candy wrapper, and it is not an indicator. But for mere mortals, this is a good, combative 5, according to the level of the “right diamond”, no lower. The route requires careful climbing and good command of aid technology. You can call it a real mountaineering route, as opposed to a beaten climbing route.

Mount Paragilmen (857 m)

To the attention of all climbers who are planning to climb Paragilmen: Remember that almost all routes to this mountain are very dangerous with rocks, many (rarely traveled) routes are covered in places with lichen, which is why they become very slippery in the rain, they are also not cleared, and there is a lot of “live” in some areas.

The relief of the mountain is very steep, almost vertical, so climbing even on a route of low difficulty category requires maximum attention and rock climbing technique.

Paragilmen- the highest limestone outlier of the Main Ridge, 871 m above sea level. From the sea side, this mountain looks like a large trapezoid; it has steep slopes of up to 60–80° and a flattened top, stretching from south to north for almost half a kilometer. About 30 species of trees and shrubs grow on Paragilmen, 10 of which are listed in the Red Book. The landmark of Paragilmen are two large yew trees on the top of the mountain. The thickness of the trunk of one of them is about 70 centimeters, and the mighty branches spread out to the sides for 7–8 meters. This giant yew is probably one of the oldest trees in Crimea.

Mount Paragilmen has been a natural monument since 1964.

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