Construction of a cold glacier in Krasnaya Polyana. Yoga tour "Krasnaya Polyana - Camp Kholodny". Crystal Pure Clarity. Addresses of the office of the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve to obtain a pass for the route

We brought a lot of good things from Tenerife, as well as the habit of hiking.

For many years I wanted to go to real mountains to contemplate the hats, but things didn’t work out. Work in Moscow or travel to other places, postponement and sudden end of the season, WHO in the area North Caucasus and ten lazy reasons =(. This can go on forever! And we haven’t had long-distance road trips for a long time. I Google it and come across wonderful place, I collect information, persuade Nastya, and at 4 am our Japanese woman is already driving along the M4 Don (within the rules, of course). Let’s leave the road trip from Moscow to Krasnaya Polyana out of the equation: we won’t talk about the gap in the cultural code with the capital, we won’t say anything about the requests, cordiality, valor of the state traffic police workers, and I won’t even say a word about shame.

Ok, we are in Krasnaya Polyana and at 9 am, with the first Gazprom Alpika cabin, we rise to Pikhtovaya Polyana. Say hello to the mountains! What could be better? We haven’t been among these gray-haired giants for a long time; they haven’t changed, but we haven’t changed much.

From Pikhtovaya Polyana our hiking path begins into the mountains in the direction of the Bzerpinsky cornice and the Kholodny glacier. We have 2 backpacks, a supply of water to the alpine meadow area and food for two days. We drop 50 meters in altitude, enter the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve (this is our second Russian reserve for the summer) and begin a long climb through a fabulous alpine forest. The beauty around us is terrible, the weather is wonderful, our backpacks don’t weigh us down, the fir trees, like empires or Burj Khalifas, demand to be looked at, we look and slowly eat up the climb meter by meter. After eating about 300 meters we go to the Medvezhye Vorota tract at 1940 meters. There are tables here and someone is already eating =))

We only climbed for about an hour, but not a trace remained of the clear sky; clouds flew in and blocked the view of Achishkho. Hid!

And we have very little left to the stopping point! We go around Mount Tabunnaya and after an hour of walking we get to Bzerpinsky cornice. And behind it is an alpine valley, stretching between the South Perevalnaya Mountains and the Pseashkho Massif. The endless beauty and intoxicating aroma of herbs simply blows my mind, even though September has already begun. And what was in ours cannot be put into words at all.

The Bzerpinsky cornice takes its name from the Bzerp river, which crawls from the Pseashkho pass and loudly falls down the cliff. Immediately, having taken out his ID, the grandfather from the operational service checks our documents for passage through the Caucasian Nature Reserve. In the pistol holster, in the temples there is gray hair, in the eyes, I don’t know, probably happiness. I envied him.

It's time to have a light snack and relax after getting up. There are already several tents around, burners are heating water, someone is sunbathing, girls are doing yoga, a couple of guys are building a new toilet near the cliff. The Bzerpinsky cornice becomes popular place last time. Of course, there is amazing beauty here, there are tents from the Krasnaya Polyana Mountain Club, proximity to civilization and one of the 2 permitted places to spend the night in the reserve. There is an easy climb nearby beautiful views to Krasnaya Polyana and Medvedev's dacha. This is such a wonderful and easy place to go that I highly recommend it to everyone!

While eating delicious food, we look around. Let's go there!

But we are not used to easily accessible places! Our path today lies further into the mountains, through the Pseashkho pass, Lake Maloye, to the Kholodny glacier, not far from which we will camp.

Nastya says that she likes it, but the sun tries to get into her eyes!

We follow an excellent path to the pass. In this part of the Caucasian Nature Reserve, they have worked on the trail and signs, the route markings are clear, there are signs, and boards have been thrown across the streams. The walk is very comfortable!

I look to the left:

I look directly:

I look to the right:

Indescribable beauty everywhere! Out of the corner of my eye I notice the peak of Sugar Pseashkho... =))

And below lies the smooth surface of the pass. Behind Nastya you can see the cross to Defenders from the Nazis, and a group of tourists of 3 people. This pass amazing place, it’s like you’re walking along it and not noticing anything unusual. But they notice the rivers. From the pass they flow in different directions. The Bzerp flows to the Black Sea, and Urushten flows into the Malaya Laba, then into the Krasnodar Reservoir and then into the Sea of Azov. Now you’re standing on the pass, watching them flow in different directions and thinking... Holy shit!

We meet an elderly couple. Very happy and smiling, full of mountain happiness =) Everything is in our hands!

By the way, in the mountains everyone greets each other and expresses respect in every possible way. And below it’s quite the opposite. Although there are all the benefits of civilization, amenities and, again, the sea. Come on, it’s so comfortable here in the blog that I don’t want to remember anything else. 😉

Along the trail to the Kholodny glacier there are snowfields. In September! Although these are not hats, it turns out that this beauty can be seen almost all summer. And I so often put off going to Caucasus Mountains to see them accurately.

And we go to the shore of Lake Maloye, which is located halfway to the Kholodny camp. We lie down on the grass, take out some treats and begin a session of cleansing the mind. No, first the treats, and then consciousness!

My consciousness is in that cloud. ommmmm

Nastya calls me to follow her, and we set off to the final point of our route for today - the Kholodnaya River. Yes, she's wonderful!

Have you forgotten about Urushten? This small stream will gain strength and reach Krasnodar from the Caucasus Mountains!

Stopping in front of another stream, we chatted about something. Suddenly, from the noise behind me, I turned around, and behind me there were already 7 horses with people. Jaegers. The horses, pushing us away from the stream, rush to get a drink. One huntsman jumps off and lies down on the stones, drinking cold water.

Hello!

Hello. To Kholodny?

Put them on horses.

Thank you, we will drown ourselves =)

Well, as you wish

Have a good day!

Amazingly, these people here protect the nature of the Caucasus Nature Reserve, which is almost gone. Very modest salaries. There is such beauty all around. Something to think about. Somehow this is wrong.

Gradually the landscape changes and we find ourselves among dwarf birches. It seems they are in the Red Book. Somewhere below, the grown-up Urushten rumbles, full of mushrooms and thoughts of camp. I just want to go and eat some hot food. We collect water from the stream. Drink. I can taste the beginning. Let's stomp.

Around the bend a new valley opens up. At its end lies a large cloud, but whoever is hiding under it is immediately easy to recognize. Glacier! That is, this grandfather cannot be melted by the sun. So it goes.

Well, all we have to do is cross the Kholodnaya River, which originates from the glacier, and we are in the camp. The river temperature is invigorating!

Well, we reach our overnight destination. Camp Kholodny is located on the edge of the forest, not far from the river and glacier. There are 2 booths here, inside of which you can bivouac, as well as tents of the Krasnaya Polyana Mountain Club, where we will spend the night. I want to tell them thanks a lot, they bring beginner tourists as close to mountain hiking as possible.

This is the view from Nastya’s and my hotel for the night. A chic frame made of a pallet, a tent and 2 sleeping bags. A thousand stars above your head - as a gift for karma. What could be better?

By the way. See the red flag? This is a memorial to the Defenders and Heroes who stopped the German specialized and high-tech mountain rifle division Edelweiss in these places. The Nazis assembled a special squad from climbers and indigenous residents of Bavaria and Austria. They walked through the Caucasus mountains for several years together with our climbers, studying the landscape and terrain. And then the Edelweiss division tried to capture the Caucasus Mountains and reach Sochi. For the Nazis, this would be a strategic victory in the war in southern Russia.
At the cost of their lives, men, boys and girls defended hospitals on the Black Sea. There are a lot of people from Sochi tourist clubs on the lists of dead defenders.

The platoon climbs up, and at the river -
The one you were paired with before.
We wait for the attack to the point of anguish,
And here are the alpine arrows
Something's not right today.

Stop talking
Onwards and upwards, and there...
After all, these are our mountains,
They will help us!

You are here again, you are all collected,
You are waiting for the treasured signal.
And that guy, he’s here too.
Among the shooters from “Edelweiss”.
They need to be thrown off the pass!
Vysotsky 1966

The sun is setting. The mountain in front of us puts on a cap. Sasha, the head of the camp, says: “The mortar woman put on a veil. Gorgeous!"

In the area of the Kholodny glacier - the next step in efforts to improve the accessibility of mountain hikes.

Almost everyone is attracted to the mountains. It is not for nothing that mountains are believed to be the home of the gods. They are truly divinely beautiful and attract a person on a subconscious level. But many are deterred from going to the mountains by the amount of necessary equipment that advanced tourists wear, its significant weight and actual physical tone.

What to do if civilization and everyday life push us towards a sedentary lifestyle. And many don’t imagine themselves mountain path under a multi-kilogram backpack. Forget this image! Now, after the appearance tent camp on the Bzerpinsky cornice and its brother camp Kholodny, all hikes can be done lightly, staying overnight in comfortable tents equipped with a mat and sleeping bag.

And if you go with a guide, then warm clothes for the evening, “snacks” and a camera are enough. The organization of overnight stays in the camp and meals is provided by the Krasnaya Polyana Mountain Club.

A guide is more than a mountain guide. Thanks to the guide, you don’t need to think about camping food, arranging overnight accommodations, or organizing camping life. A mountain guide is also a guardian angel - taking care of your safety is his job; and an encyclopedia of flora and fauna; and a reference book on the history and ethnography of the region. Do not consider a guide as an additional cost - this is a guarantee of a quality trip, regardless of the location and weather.

Camp Kholodny is one of the triad of “cold” local attractions—the Kholodny glacier and the Kholodnaya River. They even say about the latter that “liquid ice” flows in it, it is so cold.

The further path north from the camp is limited - the territory of the wild animal world begins, which has the right to its secluded existence.

These places saw stubborn fighting during the Great Patriotic War. It was here that the German troops were stopped. The occasional old shell casings and mine fragments remind us of these battles. Recently on the Morometnaya hill was installed memorial sign in honor of the defenders of the Caucasus.

Dzitaku Valley - Semiozerye. The established definition is “landscape pearl”. Powerful glaciers at one time tried hard to create this valley and design it according to all the rules of Feng Shui. One can feel the hand of a divine landscape architect. It was made for the gods, but is now available to everyone.

The Kholodny Glacier is the great-grandson of global glaciation. In our age of global warming, one of the few surviving on such a relatively low altitude. The more valuable this natural phenomenon is.
We invite everyone to the camps of the Krasnaya Polyana Mountain Club. They changed the concept of tracking. Instead of overcoming physical exertion and struggling with a backpack, you can relax and enjoy the views along the entire route. And the guides will help you navigate and show you secluded corners wildlife and spice up the journey interesting facts from the history and geography of these places.

The Krasnaya Polyana Mountain Club does not stop its efforts in building camps. The next camp on Lake Kardyvach is at the launch stage. Follow the news.

Our route thread:
Laura - Pikhtovaya Polyana- ur. Bear Gate - Bzerpinsky cornice - Kogot town (radially) - Dzitaku lakes (radially)

This is a slightly modified part of the excursion and tourist route No. 8a “Camp Kholodny” (Another name is “Bears Gate Tract - Camp Kholodny”). We had exactly 2 days of time, so we had to make adjustments. In the original, the thread looks like this: Laura - Fir Glade - lvl. Bear Gate - Tabunaya town - Bzerpinsky cornice - lane. Pseashkha - Kholodny camp. With radial exits to the Kholodnaya River valley and the Dzitaku lake valley (Semiozerye).

There is a route passport on the official website of the reserve.

Saffron (Crocus) Sharoyan, in the background is the peak of Chugush

We made the most of the time: we went up to Pikhtovaya Polyana on the first day on the first cable car, and went down on the second on the last. If you decide to repeat our route, be sure to check the cable car schedule and fix it for yourself so that you don’t have to set up camp in the clearing again and wait for the “morning express” to civilization.

Day 1. Laura - Fir Glade - lvl. Bear Gate - Bzerpinsky cornice - Kogot town.

Yesterday evening we arrived from Krasnodar to Krasnaya Polyana, so we woke up already on the territory of the Olympic Village in the hotel (information about it is here:). Despite the fact that we were in the completely opposite part of the resort from the cable car, we reached the parking lot at the railway station in about 15-20 minutes.

A paid, conditionally guarded, walk-through parking lot awaited us here. We left the car there.
In general, there are no options where you can leave your car for free at the checkpoint, either parking is included with the paid hotel room, or you can leave your car in a multi-story indoor parking lot. The second option for the price per day will be approximately the cost of the room + parking in budget hotel, so we just left the car in the open parking lot and moved towards the cable car - 3S Alpika Service / KD Laura to climb the route "A1/A2 - Pikhtovy Shelter".

Tickets for the cable car are in our hands

The reserve’s website says that in addition to the cable car, you can go up by car (SUV) - but we didn’t check this road, and judging by the review of it from the cable car cabin, we wouldn’t even go there with a crossover. It resembles the Shaumyan Pass (known to everyone who was looking for alternative roads from Krasnodar to the sea without traffic jams), only the slope is much higher.

We arrived at the upper station of the cable car. We set off along the route towards the cornice:

Having reached the cornice, we had enough time to walk to Bzerpi Peak. By the way, in clear weather, the view of the sea opens from the top.

On the way to Bzerpi Peak - sea view

Bzerpinsky cornice. In the background is the peak of Chugush

We returned back to camp at sunset. Sunset in the mountains is amazing! Especially when it’s not far from the tent. We made Dasha an avatar and slowly walked towards the camp.

Day 2. Bzerpinsky cornice - Dzitaku lakes (radially)

Jitaku Lakes on the map | Camp Cold

See the video to see how the route to the Jitaku lake valley and the lakes themselves look like.

For those who are preparing for the hike as scrupulously as possible, the following information will be useful. Well, by the way, she wouldn’t bother us that day either. Because we didn’t calculate the time and had to return from the lakes without stopping, quickly have lunch and pack up the camp in order to catch the last cable car.

Route information in numbers:

As we can see from the table, in the first part of the route (to the cornice) you will have to gather all your strength into a fist and at the same time think about what things you will do without next time, since you have a rather steep climb ahead of you. But, as a reward, there are a bunch of cool places to visit, without any significant elevation changes. You'll like it!

Attention: the route begins with an elevator ride!
This is a very rare case when diversity Vehicle it’s just off the scale: car - elevator - cable car. Don't know how to get to the mountains by elevator? Watch the video:

I had a dream - to go to the Bzerpinsky cornice in winter, when there is a lot of snow there!
See you in the mountains!

1st day:

Ascent to the cornice of the Bzerpi River (height 2000 m) (cable car + on foot), accommodation in the camp, 2 hours rest, lunch.
14:00 ascent to Mount Perevalnaya, Yuzhnaya Peak.
16:00 descent to camp, rest, tea.
17:30-20:00 sightseeing tour along the valley of the Pseashkho mountain range. Horizons to the peaks of Sugar Pseashkho, the glacier of the Pslukh River, entry to Lake Maloye, swimming in a mountain lake, if desired. Return to camp.

Day 2:

07:00 leaving the Bzerpi camp, walking along the trail to the Dzitaku lake valley, overview of the valley and seven lakes, swimming.
11:00 return to the trail to the Kholodny camp.
12:00-13:00 accommodation at the camp, rest.
15:00 radial exit (hiking from the camp without backpacks) under the Kholodny glacier, vaucluse (exit of the underground river to the outside), the valley of the Kholodnaya river, access to the lower part of the glacier, with shoes and the necessary physical exercise. preparation (ropeless passage of rocks, crossing a moraine, access to the lower part of the glacier, group of no more than 3 people). Return to camp, rest.

07:00 departure from the camp, return to the Bzerpi camp.
10:00-14:00 rest.
14:00 descent to cable car. Krasnaya Polyana and home.

For you

Yoga and plenty of hiking will bring us physical and spiritual pleasure. And to work through the emotional part of our self, we included work with a transpersonal trainer in the program. Personal growth training “On the Edge of the Possible” allows you to take a break from routine, look at yourself, your family, and your work from a different perspective. See the prospects of today, solve the problems of yesterday, fill tomorrow with luck, happiness and wisdom.

In the training program:

Creation of individual good luck talismans;
Drawing Mandalas;
Formation of a positive picture of the world through working with visual images;
Working with internal resources;
Ways to achieve goals (“Walt Disney’s Creative Strategy”).

More about the area

Krasnaya Polyana has long been considered the most beautiful place in the Caucasus. mountain peaks Aigba and Achishkho in the south and north rival the grandeur of the view of the Main Caucasus ridge. The most high points around Krasnaya Polyana they go up to 3000 meters. Completely covered with snow from November to March mountain slopes, the proximity of the sky, the crystal fast Mzymta - all this creates the impression of crystal clear clarity.

Pseashkho (Pseashkha) - mountain range in the Western Caucasus, 20 km from the village of Krasnaya Polyana, in the upper reaches of the rivers Urushten, Malaya Laba, Pslukh, on the territory of the Caucasian Natural Biosphere Reserve. Belongs to the Main Caucasus Range.

The toponym “Pseashkho” is translated from Adyghe as “high-water mountain,” apparently due to the fact that several rivers fed by glaciers originate on the slopes of the massif.

The Pseashkho massif is limited on the west by a trough valley with the Pseashkho pass (2014 m). This valley, about five kilometers long SSW-NNE and about 500 m wide, was carved out by an ancient glacier. The longitudinal slope of the valley is so small that the passage of the Pseashkho pass is imperceptible.

From the southwest, the Pseashkho massif is limited by the valley of the Pslukh river, from the east - by the valleys of the Malaya Laba and Chistaya rivers, from the north - by the valleys of the Kholodnaya and Mramornaya rivers. The southern end of the massif can be considered the Aishkha pass (2401 m), the northern end is the Mramorny pass (about 2800 m).

The Pseashkho massif is a complex mountain node with ridges of different directions and peaks from 2500 m. The following peaks are distinguished in the main massif: Northern Pseashkho (3256.9 m) - main peak array; Southern Pseashkho (3251.2 m), Uzlovaya (3196 m), Sugar Pseashkho (Sugar Loaf village) (3188.9 m), Western Pseashkho (2899.8 m)

The Pseashkho massif is interesting for its 11 glaciers. The largest of them, the Pseashkho glacier, is the largest glacier Krasnodar region. Gully-type glacier 3 km long and 1.5 km² north of highest peak Northern Pseashkho is located the Mramorny glacier, which gives rise to the Mramornaya River. Also on the northern slopes there is the Kholodny glacier, from which the Kholodnaya River flows, flowing a few kilometers later into the Urushten River. A feature of the glaciation of the Pseashkho massif is that the first glaciers of the southern macroslope appear here from the west Greater Caucasus. Over the past decades, the area of glaciers has been decreasing.

The Dzitaku Ridge is the territory of the Caucasus State Biosphere Reserve. The Jitaku Valley is a pass type, that is, the Main Dividing Range passes here along the bottom of the valley. Five lakes, located at an altitude of 1900 meters above sea level, are located close to each other and attract with their purity and beauty. The most significant lake is Bolshoye, with an area of 20,000 m² and a maximum depth of up to 10 m. The phenomenon of another lake, Two-Faced, is that the flow from it is carried out both on the northern slope and on the southern slope, that is, in the basins of the Urushtena and Laura rivers. This is very a rare event. The Jitaku ridge rises above the valley from the west. Translated from Abkhazian, Dzitaku means “waterless hill.” Peak Jitaku 2819 m. It opens panoramic view to the Northern (3257 m) and Southern (3251 m) peaks of the Pseashkho massif, the Kholodny glacier and the valley of the river of the same name, the valley of the Urushten, Chugush and Achishkho, Aibga rivers.

The Kholodny glacier is located on the northern slopes of the Pseashkho ridge. Area 0.5 km² The Kholodnaya River flows from it, flowing into the Urushten River.

What do we do

From morning until late at night we will walk and enjoy the unique views, we will breathe crystal clean air and live to the fullest. Practicing yoga in the midst of all this greatness, under the very sky, will help us absorb the unbridled energy mountain rivers, silence mountain lakes and the strength of the mountains. Better than the mountains there can only be mountains...

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