How Israel captured the Golan Heights. Israeli Maginot Line - Golan Heights. Ya'ar Yehudiah Nature Reserve

Geography

The Golan Heights are a mountain plateau of volcanic origin, extending east from Lake Tiberias (ordinary name: Lake Kinneret) and the Hula Valley, and further into Syria. Most of it is located at an altitude of more than 1000 meters above sea level. The area of the Golan Heights occupied by Israel is about 1,150 km² with a length of 60 km and an average width of 25 km.

In the west, the plateau abruptly ends towards Lake Tiberias, in the south and southeast it is limited by the deep and narrow gorge of the Yarmouk River. There are no clear natural boundaries in the east. Most of the Golan Plateau is located in Syria.

The highest point in the Israeli-controlled part of the Golan Heights is Mount Hermon at 2236 m. The territory occupied by Israel accounts for 7% of the Hermon range, and the highest point in Syrian territory reaches 2814 m. From at least November to March, the top of Hermon is covered with snow. Israel built a ski resort there.

Agriculture is well developed and consists of numerous orchards (apples, cherries), berries (raspberries, strawberries). Grape growing and winemaking enjoy great success.

At the southwestern tip of the plateau are the thermal springs of Hamat Gader, known since Roman times.

Golan Heights - Enough beautiful place. There are numerous nature reserves, streams and waterfalls here. The climate of the Golan is very temperate. Due to the altitude, it is not very hot here in summer and quite cold in winter, compared to the rest of Israel.

Story

Archaeological excavations in the Golan have revealed many archaeological sites from the biblical, Roman and medieval eras. A large number of ancient finds that shed light on the history of the Golan Heights are presented in the Golan Antiquities Museum in the city of Katzrin and in the Israel Museum in Jerusalem.

The most ancient sights of the Golan Heights include the Wheel of Spirits, a megalith of the late Copper - Early Bronze Age.

Archaeological excavations, which began at the end of the 19th century and became systematic only after the Six-Day War, discovered many architectural monuments, indicating the existence of a dense Jewish population there from at least the time of Herod I until the Arab conquest in the 7th century. Ruins of synagogues, columns with images of Jewish symbols and with inscriptions in Hebrew, Aramaic and Greek were found in the areas of the villages of Hammat Gader, Khirbat Kanaf, Kafr Harib, the city of Katzrin and in many other places.

In biblical times, the Golan Heights area belonged to Bashan and was inhabited by the Rephaim. The name Golan comes from the name of the biblical city “Golan in Bashan” (Deut.).

Ancient synagogue and wall in Gamla.

Ottoman Empire

After the end of the Russian-Turkish War of 1877-1878, the emigration of Circassians from the Russian Empire to Syria intensified. The lands allocated to settlers on the border with the nomadic Bedouins were in most cases deserted and unsuitable for agriculture. The authorities did not provide any real assistance in settling the refugees. The English traveler Lawrence Oliphant wrote that in 1880, about seven Circassian villages with a population of 3,000 people appeared on the Golan Heights. Later, the Turks placed several more villages near El Quneitra and other cities and main roads. Their population, if necessary, had to act together with regular units of the Turkish army.

World War I

In November 1917, a declaration was issued by the British Foreign Secretary (and previously Prime Minister) Lord Arthur Balfour, in which the British government stated that “looks favorably upon the creation of a homeland for the Jewish people in Palestine and uses all its capabilities to hasten the achievement of this goal...”. The main motive for supporting the idea of creating a Jewish national state in Palestine was to gain the sympathy of world Jewry at the end of the First World War (this was especially true for American Jews).

The fighting on the Palestine front ended only in October 1918 with the signing of the Armistice of Mudros. Shortly after defeat in World War I, the Ottoman Empire collapsed.

Mandates

At the same time, in 1920, the Syrian Arab Kingdom was founded with its center in Damascus. Faisal from the Hashemite dynasty, who later became the king of Iraq, was declared king. But Syria's independence did not last long. Within a few months, the French army occupied Syria, defeating Syrian troops on July 23 at the Battle of Maysalun Pass.

The British Mandate for Palestine was supposed to come into force in September 1923, but Britain transferred the Golan Heights to France in March 1923, and they became part of the French Mandate for Syria and Lebanon.

From that time on, Jewish attempts to establish settlements here met with constant opposition from the French authorities in Mandatory Syria. The French Mandate existed until 1943.

In 1936, a treaty was signed between Syria and France providing for Syrian independence, but in 1939 France refused to ratify it.

In 1940, France itself was occupied by German troops, and Syria came under the control of the Vichy Regime (governor General Denz). Nazi Germany, having provoked the rebellion of Prime Minister Geilani in British Iraq, sent units of its air force to Syria. In June-July 1941, with the support of British troops, units of the Free French (later renamed Fighting France) led by generals Charles de Gaulle and Catroux entered Syria during a bloody conflict with the troops of Denz. General de Gaulle in his memoirs directly indicated that the events in Iraq, Syria and Lebanon were directly related to German plans to invade the USSR (as well as Greece, including the island of Crete and Yugoslavia), since they had the task of distracting armed forces allies to secondary theaters of war.

On September 27, 1941, France granted independence to Syria, leaving its troops on its territory until the end of World War II.

In January 1944, Syria declared independence, and the Golan territory was included in the state borders of Syria. After this, the creation of Jewish settlements in the Golan Heights became absolutely impossible. Syrian independence was recognized on April 17, 1946.

Independent Syria

On May 14, 1948, one day before the end of the British Mandate for Palestine, David Ben-Gurion proclaimed the creation of an independent Jewish state on the territory allocated according to the UN plan. The very next day, the League of Arab States declared war on Israel, and immediately five Arab states (Syria, Egypt, Lebanon, Iraq and Transjordan) attacked new country, thereby starting the First Arab-Israeli War, called the "War of Independence" in Israel.

On July 20, 1949, as a result of the war, an Armistice Agreement was concluded between Israel and Syria.

At the end of the war, the Syrians covered the Golan with a network of artillery positions and fortifications to bombard the Jewish settlements of the Upper Galilee and the Sea of Galilee region, subordinating the entire economy of the region to military needs. As a result of systematic shelling of Israeli territory from these positions, from 1948 to 1967, 140 Israelis were killed and many were wounded.

Israeli occupation since 1967

At the same time, according to the American historian Daniel Pipes, known for his criticism of the modern Islamic world, the Syrian authorities, in order to achieve a propaganda effect, did not allow the population to return to the city to their normal life and have since been demonstrating the ruins of the city as a result of Israeli “unprecedented terrorism and cruelty." The American organization CAMERA claims that the destruction of the city is the result of military operations by Syria, which, in an attempt to shell Israeli positions in the Golan, subjected Quneitra to powerful artillery shelling for hours in 1970-1973.

Buildings in Quneitra were also looted. Israeli officials claim that Quneitra was sacked by the retreating Syrians. The Special Representative of the Secretary-General of the United Nations, Nils-Göran Güssing, regards this version as unlikely, given the extremely short period of time between the erroneous radio announcement of the fall and the actual fall of the city several hours later. He concluded that "responsibility for carrying out this extensive sack of the city of Quneitra lay largely with Israeli forces."

Warning sign on minefields.

The US Committee on Refugees and Immigrants reported that "the Israelis leveled the city with bulldozers and dynamite before withdrawing."

Since 1974, Quneitra has been located in a demilitarized no-man's land between the Israeli and Syrian borders, controlled by UN forces. The city remains virtually uninhabited to this day.

The capital of the Israeli-controlled part of the Golan is the city of Katzrin.

In the late 1970s, the government granted Israeli citizenship to Syrian citizens living in the Heights, and in November 1981, Israel officially annexed the Golan Heights, extending its jurisdiction over it. The act did not receive international recognition.

Today, about 39 thousand people live in the Golan. Of the Syrian settlements, 4 villages remain: Majdal Shams, Masada, Bukata and Ein Kiniye; the majority of their inhabitants are Druze.

A large number of old Syrian minefields remain in the Golan Heights. Most of them are fenced off and marked with warning signs, but they are not neutralized. As a result, natural nature has been preserved in a large area and there are places where no human has actually set foot since 1967.

After the occupation of the Golan Heights, Israeli fortified posts were equipped here, equipped with electronic equipment for reconnaissance; the largest electronic reconnaissance stations are located on Mount Hermon (60 km from Damascus), as well as on the heights of Hermonit, Tel Fares, Avital and Booster.

Since the beginning of 2011, IDF units began laying new minefields in the Golan Heights. The decision to re-mined the border was made after Palestinians, who came from Syria, managed to break through the border fence and enter Israeli territory, while the old mines did not work. Additionally, by 2012, Israel had built a separation wall there. The IDF is strengthening a wall along the ceasefire line and installing additional surveillance capabilities across the border to prevent possible infiltration attempts by Syrian refugees or militants, the Guardian newspaper reports.

Political status

In December 1981, Israeli jurisdiction was extended to the Golan region by a decision of the Knesset.

Israel's annexation of the Golan Heights is not internationally recognized, and UN Security Council Resolution 497 considers the area part of the Syrian occupied territories.

The Syrian population of the Golan before the capture of the territory by the Israeli Army was about 116,000 people. During the Six Day War, the largest part of this population fled (according to the Israeli version) or were expelled by the Israelis (according to the Syrian version (unavailable link)). According to the Syrian version, Israel banned these people from returning after the war (unavailable link). After the Six Day War, only 6,400 Syrian citizens, mostly Druze, remained in the Golan. In 1981, following the annexation of the Golan by Israel, they were offered Israeli citizenship.

Most Druze initially refused Israeli citizenship, but eventually accepted it. They currently have dual citizenship. Today, according to Syrian data, 16 thousand Syrians live in the Golan (unavailable link).

Since 1967, Israel has built 34 settlements in the Golan. Their total population in 2007 is about 20 thousand people. The population of Druze villages in the Golan is about 18 thousand people. In general, a significant part of the territory is sparsely populated.

The issue of possible negotiations between Israel and Syria on the Golan Heights issue has a long history. As a rule, this is associated with domestic political events in Israel and/or Syria, or with another international initiative.

Israel's motives

There are several reasons why Israel defends its right to the Golan Heights:

Legal aspect. Israeli legislators, jurists, historians and many politicians for decades have persistently argued and strengthened in the minds of most Israelis the point of view that the Golan is a land that since ancient times belonged to the Jewish people and was illegally transferred to Syria in 1923. According to this point of view, the original Golan, in in accordance with the mandate of the League of Nations, were assigned to Great Britain, and she, guided by the Balfour Declaration, was supposed to promote the creation of a “Jewish national home” in the territories under her control. However, the border of the mandated territory was revised during the Anglo-French negotiations during the division of the Damascus vilayet, in violation of the international obligations of the victorious countries in the First World War.

Military aspect. Israeli politicians argue that the Golan's natural topography is ideal for ensuring Israel's security on its eastern borders. And that, on the contrary, the loss of the Golan, from the tops of which almost half of Israel is freely shot at, significantly reduces its defense capability. As an example of the need to maintain an Israeli presence in the Golan Heights, the Israeli leadership usually cites the fact that the transition of this area under Israeli sovereignty has ensured more than three decades of “positive calm” in an area where constant military clashes took place before liberation. Conversely, the transfer of the Golan to Syria could destabilize the security situation.

Economic aspect. The Golan Heights is economically one of the most prosperous areas of Israel. There is virtually no unemployment here. More than 50% is produced in the Golan mineral water Israel, about a quarter of all wines (including 40% of exports), from 30 to 50% of certain types of fruits and vegetables. Good weather and the presence of historical and natural monuments provide an influx of tourists. Although travel business In Israel, which has suffered significantly from the ongoing confrontation with the Palestinians, the Golan continues to receive a steady influx of holidaymakers from Israel and abroad (about 2.1 million visits per year).
In addition, according to Israeli experts, the entire procedure associated with leaving the Golan would cost the state treasury at least $10 billion (the Americans promise to provide only $17 million for this purpose), and the military contingent on the border would have to be increased with Syria. Israel, which is experiencing an acute budget deficit after the costly implementation of Sharon's Gaza plan, cannot afford such expenses.

Water supply aspect. Of the few rivers in Israel with a year-round aquifer, only the Jordan River and its three tributaries (Snir, Banias and Dan) replenish Lake Tiberias, the country’s main reservoir of fresh water, which barely meets its current needs. Currently, Israel draws more than 30% of its drinking water from springs flowing through the Golan Heights. According to experts from the Bureau for Relations with Jews of the CIS and Eastern Europe at the Office of the Prime Minister (“Nativ”), the transfer of the Golan Heights to Syria is associated with the loss of 70% of the Kinneret watershed. The transition of the Golan to Syrian control will inevitably lead Israel to water famine and environmental disaster.

Photos

Notes

Golan Heights - Background, (Government Press Office), Jerusalem, 8 February 1994
The melody of return sounds for the second century, Rodina magazine
Balfour Declaration (November 2, 1917). British Mandate.
The Palestinian Academic Society for the Study of International Affairs
League of Nations: The Mandate for Palestine, July 24, 1922 (English). Modern History Sourcebook. Fordham University (July 24, 1922). Archived from the original on August 21, 2011. Retrieved July 5, 2008.
The Legal Rights of the Jewish People to the Land of Israel in the Light of International Law, Howard Grief
Part 3: Partition, War and Independence (English). The Mideast: A Century of Conflict. National Public Radio (October 2, 2002). Archived from the original on August 21, 2011. Retrieved July 13, 2007.
Israel-Syria Armistice Agreement, 20 July 1949.
R. and W. Churchill. Six Day War
Daniel Pipes. Quneitra, Why in Ruins?
New York Times Quneitra Claims Contradicted by Times Own Reporting
Jeremy Bowen Six Days: How the 1967 War Shaped the Middle East, p. 304. Simon & Schuster Ltd, 2003.

Golan Heights (Kinneret, Israel) - detailed description, location, reviews, photos and videos.

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Far East- that region, which, like the land of Hellas, can rightfully be called the cradle of European civilization. But even among the great variety of attractions presented here, it is possible to single out, albeit with great difficulty, places that are simply a must-see. Among these is a controversial territory with a difficult history, which is full of cultural monuments and is distinguished by a special, somewhat harsh, but indescribably beautiful nature. We are talking about the famous Golan Heights.

History paragraph

Golan Heights - disputed territory between Syria and Israel, and each of the states considers these lands to be theirs from time immemorial. In the period from 1944 to 1967, this region belonged to Syria, but after the Six-Day War (in which the Israeli army left no chance for opponents from the coalition of Arab states), the territory was annexed. Today, both Syria and Israel claim the Golan Heights, but this territory is controlled by Israel.

The Golan Heights, like other areas of the Middle East, can boast of a very ancient history. It goes without saying that archaeological excavations were widely carried out here, which made it possible to find artifacts from Old Testament times, the period of Roman rule and, of course, the Middle Ages. Of course, such a concentration of attractions makes the Golan Heights one of the most popular travel destinations in Israel. In addition, a monument of the late Bronze - early Silver Age - the “Wheel of Spirits” - was discovered in these places.

According to information received by scientists, this area was densely populated by Jews until the 7th century, when Arab conquerors invaded.

What to see

Nature lovers should definitely visit Hermon National Park and Yaar Yehudia Nature Reserve. You should definitely take the scenic Nahal El Al route. The path will not take much effort and time - it is designed for half a day, and its highlight is two very beautiful waterfall. It is also interesting to take a walk along the Bir Kat Ram trail, here you have a unique opportunity to see the crater extinct volcano and even walk along it. Another route runs to the Nimrod fortress, from the heights of which a surprisingly picturesque view opens.

The Golan Heights, among other things, are famous for their unique thermal springs located in the town of Hamat Gader. By the way, this healing resort was known back in the 2nd century after Christ. So the locals healing waters have been attracting guests here for thousands of years.

The capital of the Golan Heights is considered to be the city of Katzrin, which, however, does not stand out in anything remarkable. But not far from it there is a very picturesque village, where a Jewish village from the Talmudic period was reconstructed. Here you can see houses typical of that time and get acquainted with the details of everyday life and interior design. The local archaeological museum also deserves attention.

Just 2 km from the city is located shopping mall, where in an ultra-modern cinema you can see the film “The Magic of the Golan”, telling about the history and geography of this region.

Mount Bental serves as a sad monument to the tragic events that unfolded here in 1973, during the Yom Kippur War between Arabs and Jews. It was an important strategic point (it remains so to this day), because a terrifying bloody battle unfolded here. At the top, above the so-called “Valley of Tears,” a bunker and command post have been preserved. Nearby is the cozy village of Merom Golan, a real center of agritourism - horseback riding, farm products and many other entertainments will undoubtedly delight guests.

For those who want to relax in a calm environment and with the maximum amount of amenities and entertainment, we can safely recommend Ramot. This small village is full of guesthouses and restaurants. And most importantly, it is located on the shores of the Sea of Galilee. Particularly exotic can be considered a visit to the Druze villages located in the north of the Golan. The Druze are a special subethnic group that professes Islam and lived in these lands before the formation of the Israeli state. Today they are separated by a border from their relatives, but they have managed to preserve a special national flavor both in everyday life and in the excellent local cuisine.

The Golan Heights is a disputed territory in the Middle East. Until 1967 it was part of Syria. It was captured by Israel during the Six Day War. The war began on June 5, 1967. Egypt, Syria and Jordan massed their troops to the borders of Israel, expelled UN peacekeepers and blocked the entry of Israeli ships into the Red Sea and the Suez Canal. Israel launched a preemptive offensive. In the very first hours of the war, Israel managed to knock out most of the aviation of these states and seize the initiative.

In 6 days of war, Israel captured the Sinai Peninsula on the Egyptian front, and the Golan Heights and the western province of Jordan on the Syrian front. The war ended on June 12 with an agreement reached between the warring parties through the mediation of the USA and the USSR. As a result, Israel withdrew its troops from areas west of the Suez Canal, but retained the captured territories in the Sinai Peninsula and Western Syria. This led to a further deepening of the military-political crisis in the Middle East

As a result of the Arab-Israeli “Yom Kippur War” (October 1973), a Syrian-Israeli agreement on a truce and separation of troops was concluded.

In December 1981, the Israeli Knesset (parliament) passed a law extending Israeli jurisdiction to the Golan Heights.

The UN General Assembly has repeatedly called this annexation illegal and called on Israel to return the Golan to the Syrians (one of the last such resolutions was adopted on December 1, 2006).

The Israeli authorities, in turn, emphasized that the capture of the Golan Heights was carried out during a defensive war; these heights were used by the enemy as a springboard for an attack on the Jewish state - therefore the annexation should be recognized as legal.

Having established control over the Golan Heights, Israel in subsequent years considered the Golan as part of its territory, enshrining the corresponding interpretations in civil legislation.

The Golan is considered the breadbasket of Israel. Wheat, cotton, olives, tomatoes, and almonds are grown here. On the western slopes of the Lower Golan, going down to Lake Kinneret, subtropical plants are grown: avocados, mangoes, bananas.

The biggest locality modern Golan - Israeli city Katzrin (the former “Syrian capital of the Golan”, the city of Quneitra was destroyed during the 1967 war).

The return of the Golan Heights occupied in 1967 is a non-negotiable condition for peace with Israel for Syria. In 2008, with Turkish mediation, Syria and Israel held several rounds of indirect peace talks. They were interrupted after Israel launched a military operation in the Gaza Strip in December, which in the winter of 2008-2009. killed over a thousand Palestinians and caused a storm of criticism from the world community.

At the same time, Israel's relations with Turkey deteriorated. Declaring their readiness to return to the negotiating table with Syria at any time and without preconditions, the Israeli authorities have repeatedly talked about the advisability of finding a new mediator who is less “biased” than Turkey.

Israel prefers to see Paris, rather than Ankara, as a mediator.

The Syrian leadership has repeatedly stated its readiness to resume negotiations with Israel, provided that their goal is the complete liberation of the Golan Heights occupied in 1967. Israel, for its part, insists on negotiations without preconditions, but says that if Syria wants peace, it must distance itself from Iran and stop supporting the Lebanese resistance movement Hezbollah.

Golan Heights, or Golan(in Hebrew Ramat HaGolan) - a mountain plateau in northeastern Israel, on the border with Syria and Lebanon. Most of the Golan Plateau came under Israeli control as a result of the Six-Day War in 1967. About 1/3 of the Golan Heights remains in Syria. The natural border of the Golan in the west is the Jordan River and the Hula Valley, in the southwest - Lake Kinneret (Lake Tiberias). A significant area of the Israeli Golan today is occupied by natural parks and nature reserves.

The name “Golan” goes back to the ancient toponym “Golan” - the name of the city of Golan, located in the region Bashan. This city is mentioned in the book of Devarim ( 4:43 ) and in the book of Joshua ( 20:8 ), it referred to the allotment of half the tribe of Menashe, one of the 12 tribes of Israel to which the Most High gave this land.

The Golan Heights are distinguished by picturesque landscapes, big amount greenery and vegetation, waterfalls and gorges. Here, as we said, there are numerous nature reserves, laid tourist routes. Therefore the Golan Heights are popular place tourism, especially in winter period when the foot of Mount Hermon opens ski resort. Grape growing and winemaking enjoy great success. The most famous wineries in Israel are located in the Golan.

Since ancient times, there has been a Jewish settlement on the territory of the Golan Heights. During active archaeological excavations in the southern and central part of the Golan last years About 30 Jewish synagogues were found. Above the entrance to one of them there is an inscription carved: This is the home of the teachings of Rabbi Eliezer HaKapar. A large number of ancient finds that shed light on ancient history Golan Heights, displayed in the museum central city Golan - Katzrina - and in the Israel Museum in Jerusalem.

Geographical data

The Golan Heights mountain plateau extends northeast from Lake Kinneret deep into Syria. The geological platform is formed from the remains of frozen volcanic lava; the mountains here are frozen volcanoes or the ruins of volcanic craters. Therefore, all historical and archaeological buildings on the Golan Heights are made of characteristic black volcanic basalt.

Most of the Golan Heights are located at an altitude of more than 1000 meters above sea level. Israel controls about 1,154 km² of the 1,800 km Golan Heights, which represents about two-thirds of the geographic plateau.

There are a large number of mountain streams in the Golan Heights. Several of them divide the Golan Heights into three sectors: northern (between the Hermon massif and the Gilbon Stream), central (between Gilbon and Daliot) and southern (between Daliot and the Yarmouk River). The beds of the streams, especially in the Lower Golan with its fertile soil, formed deep gorges separating small areas of the plateau from each other.

The highest point of the Israeli part of the Golan Heights is Mount Hermon, its height is 2236 m (at the same time, only 7% of the Hermon range is located in Israel). The most high mountain on Syrian territory - 2814 m.

At the southwestern tip of the plateau are the Hamat Gader thermal springs, famous for their medicinal properties. In the language of the sages of the Talmud they were called Hamei Tiberias- “Hot Springs of Tiberias”, by name large city, located on Lake Kinneret.

History of Jewish settlement in the Golan Heights

Before the Jewish conquest of the land of Israel, the Golan Heights were part of the kingdom of Og, king of Bashan ( see Bemidbar, 21:33). As the Torah testifies, the lands of Bashan passed to Israel after Og, the king of Bashan, and his people went to war against the Jews and were defeated.

The tribes of Gad and Reuven settled on the land captured from the Emorite king Sihon, and part of the tribe of Menashe settled in the lands of Bashan, in the area where the Golan Heights were located.

During the period of the Kings (around the middle of the 9th century BC), the Golan Heights were the site of battles between King Ahab and Ben-Hadad II, king of Aramean Damascus ( Malachim I, ch. 20).

At the end of the Hasmonean era, the Golan Heights were captured by King Alexander Yanai, and Jewish settlements were established there. From then on, Jews lived in the Golan for approximately 700 years. The regional center was the city of Gamla, which became famous thanks to the heroic battle during the Great Revolt against the Romans (mid-1st century AD). When the Roman army besieged the city and defeat was inevitable, the remaining inhabitants, about 1,200 people, chose to commit suicide by jumping into the abyss rather than be captured alive by the enemy.

After the destruction of the Second Temple, Jewish life was maintained in the Golan Heights, reaching its peak during the time of the Talmud. The Jerusalem Talmud names 8 Jewish cities and settlements in the Golan Heights, among them Nov, Hispiya and Kfar Haruv, which have survived to this day, are mentioned.

After the conquest of the Middle East by the Arab Caliphate (638 AD), the Golan entered into governorate Damascus. From this moment on, Jewish life in the Golan Heights ceases.

Since 1886, attempts have been made to populate the Golan Heights with Jewish activists (for example, in the areas of Quneitra in 1887 and present-day Ein Gev in 1898, on the initiative of the Bnei Yehuda society created by the Jews of Safed; the creation of a settlement of Crimean Jews in 1904), but most of them were unsuccessful due to severe climatic conditions, as well as opposition from the authorities and local residents.

The establishment of Jewish settlements in the Golan at the expense of Baron E. de Rothschild (in 1894, 1896, 1897) also did not produce results. Only the settlement of Bnei Yehuda, founded in 1888 near the Arab village of Bir ash-Shakum (5 km northeast of modern Ein Gev), existed until 1920 - until the head of the Jewish family still remaining there died at the hands of Arabs.

Drawing on the rich Jewish past of the Golan and the attempts to develop them during the times of the first and second aliyah, the Zionist unification demanded to include the Golan Heights within the boundaries of the “national home”, the creation of which was proclaimed by Lord Balfour in 1917 - see Balfour Declaration. But in March 1923, England transferred the Golan Heights to France, and they became part of the French mandate for Syria and Lebanon.

From that time on, attempts by Jews to establish settlements here met with constant opposition from the French authorities of Mandatory Syria.

In January 1944, Syria declared independence, and the Golan territory was included in the state borders of Syria. After this, the creation of Jewish settlements in the Golan Heights became impossible. Syrian independence was recognized on April 17, 1946.

In the context of the Arab-Israeli conflict, the Golan Heights represent a critical strategic point for both Syria and Israel. Until 1967, while the Golan Heights were under Syrian control, Syria took advantage of the Golan's mountainous terrain to bombard large areas of Israel's northern border with artillery, as well as to infiltrate terrorists into its territory. It was vital for Israel to push back the borders.

On June 9-10, 1967, during the Six-Day War, Israeli troops launched an offensive and, after 24 hours of heavy fighting, occupied the Golan Heights.

In 1973, Syria, together with Egypt, attempted to return territories captured by Israel, including the Golan Heights and the Sinai Peninsula, starting the Yom Kippur War. But during fierce battles, the Israeli army repelled the attack and even strengthened its position in the Golan. As a result of the troop disengagement agreement signed in 1974 under the influence of global pressure, Israel was forced to yield to the demands of the Syrians, giving Syria the eastern strip along the Golan Heights, with total area approximately 60 km 2.

In 1981, the Israeli Knesset passed the Golan Heights Law, which declared Israeli sovereignty over this territory. This decision was challenged by UN Security Council Resolution 497 of December 17, 1981.

Since then, the issue of returning the Golan Heights to Syria periodically appears on the agenda, usually in connection with internal political events in Syria or with another international initiative. However, due to the strategic importance of this territory, the likelihood of their transfer to Syria is extremely low. The internal political factor is also taken into account: the majority of Israelis are against any territorial concessions to the Arabs, since, as experience has shown, the principle of “Peace in exchange for territory” has not been effective in resolving the Arab-Israeli conflict.

Golan today

The Golan Heights have long been a blind spot for scholars of Jewish history. Not only the ancient settlements, but even their names have not been preserved. After 1,500 years of "Jewish absence", these places were retaken in the Six Day War of 1967, and we began to reacquaint ourselves with this land, explore and develop it.

The nature of the Golan Heights is amazing. The combination of basalt rocks and limestone created a special landscape here. The relatively flat mountain plateau is cut by deep gorges. There are many natural springs, pools and high waterfalls. Cooled volcanoes rise, offering amazing views of the Golan, Kinneret and Galilee and nearby Syria.

To the north is visible Israel's highest Mount Hermon, which is covered with snow in winter. In the east, dormant volcanoes stand out in several rows. Boundless spaces, breathtaking, alternate with quiet, “intimate” corners of nature. There are many wild animals, few tourists and local residents, nature is untouched by destructive human intervention.

In the Golan, archaeologists have found ancient mysterious objects- evidence of the life of the peoples who lived in these places. From the time of the Second Temple, the ruins of the Jewish city of Gamla, which heroically defended the road to Jerusalem from the Roman legions, have been preserved here; The excavations of the city of Susita (Hipos) date back to the Byzantine period, where they found great amount marble and granite artifacts dating back two thousand years; Dozens of Jewish settlements and synagogues from the Mishnah and Talmud periods were also discovered (mainly in the southern Golan Heights).

It was here that the most difficult, tragic tank battles in the history of the State of Israel took place. Some of them were of world significance. Traveling through the Golan Heights, it is difficult not to come across memorials with captured weapons, old and new military bases, rusted tanks, pieces of tracks, spent cartridges, barbed wire with signs: “Beware of mines.”

In the Golan, you will be surprised by the fortitude and hard work of the inhabitants of the modern Jewish settlements that have brought the area to life. From bare rocky expanses and former minefields, these people raised a thriving agriculture. It is important to note that most of the settlements in the Golan are religious.

Anyone who has been here once wants to come back here again and again...

It showed how interesting and convenient this country is in terms of travel. But not for a moment did we feel some discomfort here. After all, Israel is still on the thin line of war and peace with almost the entire Arab world. Therefore, armed soldiers, bomb shelters and military vehicles very often do not raise any questions here. The Israelis themselves have long been accustomed to this state of limbo, but for visiting guests it adds thrills. But the maximum of this kind of emotion can be felt by visiting the Golan Heights or simply the Golan. Many minefields, the remains of destroyed equipment, abandoned military installations and observation border posts - ordinary everyday life in the Golan. All this can be viewed and photographed almost freely. If only you have the courage, because these places are unsafe to this day. Aren't you scared? Then go ahead!
2.

It is worth noting that it is a good idea to travel around the Golan in the company of people who know these places well. Sasha became our guide puerrtto and, probably, it would be difficult to find a better expert on this region. It’s hard for me to imagine whether I could have made a foray into this troubled region on my own, without his help. You can take a look at his report about that unforgettable trip. But first, I’ll tell you a little about what, in fact, makes the Golan so interesting.
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This region is a mountain plateau of volcanic origin, which is located just between the central regions of Israel and Syria, mired in civil war. The Golan is a special part of Israel that is unlike anything else. The earth is burgundy-red, extinct volcanoes-hills, rocky fields of solidified lava create unearthly surreal landscapes.
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These desert lands were once called the country of shepherds and nomads. Hence the name, which has nothing to do with Holland, but is associated specifically with cattle breeding. Conflicts and wars have also occurred here since ancient times. The Romans, Byzantines and Muslims constantly conquered and ceded these lands. Then the British, Turks and French tried to divide the Golan. Well, over the past 60 years, a fierce war has unfolded here between two relatively new geographical map states of Israel and Syria.
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It would seem that who needs these lifeless lands, but the strategic value of the Golan Heights is enormous. Firstly, this plateau rises above the surrounding lands on both the Israeli and Syrian sides. This is the most convenient springboard for monitoring the situation throughout the region. And secondly, more than 30 percent of all water resources of the Jewish state are hidden in the depths of this plateau.
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After the proclamation of the Israeli state and the first Arab-Israeli war, the Golan became Syrian territory. Over the course of 20 years, the Syrian military took possession of these lands, creating a network of artillery positions and fortifications here. It was only a matter of time how long Israel would continue to tolerate this immediate threat to its country.
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During the so-called Six Day War, the Golan came completely under Jewish control. But just six years later, this region became the scene of what was apparently the last major tank battle of the 20th century. 40 years ago, Syria and Egypt suddenly attacked Israel from two sides. It's not that the Jews weren't prepared for this invasion. We only miscalculated the time and scale.
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The network of temporary Israeli fortifications in the Golan alone was attacked by 1,300 Soviet-made T-62 and T-55 tanks. They were opposed by only 180 Israeli Centurion and Sherman tanks. No less impressive was the superiority in manpower. Almost everyone has united in this war against Israel. Arab countries. Syria and Egypt were supported by soldiers and equipment from Iran, Morocco, Tunisia, Libya and Algeria. Financial support was provided Saudi Arabia and Bahrain. Technicians and consultants came from the USSR and Cuba. Surprisingly, the war lasted only 18 days and ended with the complete defeat of the Arabs. Only the first few days the surprise of the attack gave them illusory hopes of success.
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Being in the Golan, you can very vividly imagine what a handful of Israeli soldiers saw in the first hours of the start of the war from the heights of their fortified positions. Thousands of tanks, tens of thousands of infantrymen, and a lot of auxiliary equipment then filled the entire space near the Golan Heights. These were very convenient targets. The range of the Centurions' guns made it possible to destroy Syrian troops at an almost safe distance. But even at night the battle continued. The Syrian military, not distinguished by strategic or tactical talents, took advantage of numbers. At the end of the second day, most of the Golan was almost in the hands of Syria, but then Israeli reservists arrived. The outcome of the battle was predetermined.
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After this battle, the Golan presented an amazing sight - thousands of mangled cars, dozens of destroyed buildings and a lot of abandoned ammunition lay everywhere. We must pay tribute to Israel; in the Golan they have managed to preserve many relics of that war to this day. A kind of 60 kilometers of the Golan perimeter have become a huge open-air museum.
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Now a trip across this mountain plateau is quite comparable to the stalkers’ trek through restricted areas from the Strugatskys’ “Roadside Picnic.” The nerves are tickled by large areas of minefields, in the middle of which there are good asphalt roads.
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Many abandoned objects, artifacts and strange sights can raise questions, some of which cannot be answered. Here, for example, is the famous “suspended jeep” intersection. Who and why threw this burnt Syrian UAZ onto the pole is no longer known for certain. Apparently this is how a certain landmark was created. But now it has become a favorite of dozens of birds, which noisily fly away when they clap their hands.
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The Israeli military almost completely cleared the fields of destroyed Syrian equipment, while leaving their own damaged Centurions at their last combat posts. This can be considered a tribute to the tank heroes of that battle, who did not flinch under the enemy’s onslaught ten times greater. To this day, serving in the tank units of the Israeli army is a special honor for all citizens of this country liable for military service.
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Some of these tanks are not that easy to approach. You have to walk with some caution along paths right in the middle of minefields. Somewhat especially memorable places That battle has been turned into a kind of memorial. They like to take schoolchildren and veterans to the so-called “Valley of Tears”.
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Here the intensity of that battle was especially great. After a 4-day battle, about 500 Syrian tanks with other military equipment and up to 60 Israeli combat vehicles remained mixed throughout the entire territory of this place. By our time, only a couple were left, whose gun muzzles froze crossed in the last mortal spasm.
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Here the Israelis built a small amphitheater for visiting guests. It offers excellent views of the entire valley below, all the way to the small Syrian town on the horizon. Sasha said that some time ago it was possible to come here to observe real fighting on the Syrian side between the local military and the armed opposition.
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I would call it a very unique pastime. Although several fences with barbed wire, anti-tank ditches and new Israeli minefields make it practically impossible for any new invaders to penetrate here. In addition, each nearby hill has been turned into powerful observation posts and hides multi-level fortifications underneath.
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After the “Valley of Tears” we stopped at another very unusual place. It was a large, completely abandoned two-story building built by the Syrians as a hospital, but also serving as an Arab and army command headquarters.
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It’s amazing that here you could freely go inside, walk along long corridors and climb to the roof.
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Here traces of a short battle, hits from several large rockets and large-caliber machine-gun bursts were visible.
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Nevertheless, this building has been preserved in almost perfect condition and could easily become the scenery in some kind of cinematic war drama or horror film.
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Just a few kilometers from this building we stopped at the former Syrian barracks. I was again amazed that we got inside absolutely unhindered. And in general, almost all the time during this day there was not a soul around. Only occasionally did military jeeps pass along the road, which were absolutely not interested in lonely travelers like us.
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The Israeli military built several bomb shelters next to the abandoned barracks buildings. By the way, you shouldn’t go inside the buildings themselves here. The paint on the walls warns about this.
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I felt a little creepy here; the atmosphere of an unfinished war was clearly putting pressure on my psyche. So we hurried to the next object.
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It became an abandoned mosque next to a Syrian cemetery. The tower of this mosque was clearly used as a firing point, so traces of massive shelling were visible on it.
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But it turned out that you can easily climb up the well-preserved stairs.
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The view from there was truly wonderful. In addition, the play of light of the setting sun created extraordinary colors that added even more unreality to the surrounding gloomy reality.
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Already in the evening twilight we arrived at our last designated point - the fortified hill of Tel as-Saki.
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This place also turned out to be significant for the Israelis. Here, several dozen Israeli soldiers and six tanks fought to the death. The forces of the Syrians are no longer countable.
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Completely surrounded, the Israelis were able to hold this strong point for three days, in the end they were simply without strength and ammunition, wounded, taking refuge in the depths of the bunker. The losses of the Syrians were such that they did not even begin to finish off the garrison that had not surrendered.
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Now the Israeli flag flies proudly here, and infantry figures stand on the hill. Around this hill you can find a lot of damaged, rusty, Soviet-made Syrian vehicles - UAZs, trucks, armored cars.
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Nowadays, the Golan has turned into an amazing symbiosis of a nature reserve and an open-air museum. Minefields and border status were able to preserve its pristine beauty local nature and at the same time many interesting artifacts of the last major battle on these lands. It seems to me that there are no analogues to this place on Earth, but, of course, not everyone should go here, but only a little crazy travelers and lovers military history. But they are guaranteed maximum emotions here!
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