Large estates. The Golitsyn estate is large vyazemy. All-male premises



Former estate near Moscow Bolshie Vyazyomy is located about forty kilometers west of Moscow, right behind Golitsyn. On the left side of the highway you can clearly see the park and the old manor house.



The estate, located on the old Smolensk road, witnessed and took part in many important events Russian history, she took Boris Godunov, False Dmitry I, Marina Mnishek, Kutuzov, Napoleon under her roof...


At the end of the 16th century, Bolshie Vyazemy was the country residence of Boris Godunov. It is not known exactly when the estate fell into the hands of the all-powerful boyar, but the first mention of this fact dates back to 1585. Godunov loved his estate near Moscow and furnished it beautifully and thoroughly. Under him, a large wooden palace, a church, numerous outbuildings, orchards were laid out, a pond with a stone dam was dug on the Vyazyomka River.




The wooden palace burned down in 1618, when Polish troops were approaching Moscow, but the magnificent Godunov Church Life-Giving Trinity, later renamed Preobrazhenskaya, has been preserved.




The four-pillar, five-domed temple stands on a high basement and is surrounded on three sides by covered two-tier galleries.







The walls of the building are made of white stone, and the crowning parts and galleries are made of brick.




Frescoes from the late 16th century have been preserved inside.


In 1807, six-year-old Nikolai Pushkin, the poet’s younger brother, was buried near the eastern wall of the temple.



Next to the church, on a high terrace, there is a belfry that is completely unique for the Moscow region.





By the middle of the 19th century, the Godunov belfry had become very dilapidated, and they already intended to dismantle it. Fortunately, the owner of Big Elms, Prince Golitsyn, did not allow reprisals against historical monument, however, as compensation, he allowed it to be attached to ancient temple new bell tower. This newly built bell tower was dismantled during restoration work in the 1950s.


The picturesque group of temple buildings is surrounded by a replica of an 18th-century fence.








Adjacent to one of the corners of the fence is a small clergy house.




After the death of Godunov, Bolshie Vyazemy was considered a palace village. In 1694, Peter I granted the former Godunov estates to his tutor, Prince Boris Alekseevich Golitsyn. In 1766, his great-grandson Nikolai Mikhailovich Golitsyn became the owner of the estate, who in the 1770s/1780s. built a new manor complex, which, with some changes, has survived to this day.


The first pair of brick buildings were erected in 1771: guest and kitchen wings.






Standing a little further away, another two-story, outbuilding-like building has nothing to do with the old estate; it was built in the 1930s for the School of Arts.




In 1784, the main manor house, built in the style of French classicism, rose between the wings.






The house facing the old pond is especially good.




At the top of the attics are cartouches with the Golitsyn family coat of arms.




Some outbuildings of the estate have been preserved behind the church. The large horse yard of the late 18th century has been greatly damaged by alterations, and is now being restored.




There is a museum in the main manor house. It must be said that this museum is very young, it appeared in the late 1980s, and owes its existence to enthusiastic devotees. The original interiors of the estate have not been preserved, and museum workers had to literally collect strings from the world to create the exhibition. In the halls of the main house, museum staff tried to partially reconstruct Golitsyn’s rooms. Some of the premises contain exhibits telling about the history of the estate and famous people connected with it in one way or another.


The formal dining room features furniture and tableware from the 18th/19th centuries.











Behind the dining room there is a round rotunda room, from which there was access to the garden.







In old photographs you can see what the rooms looked like at the beginning of the 20th century.




The main bedroom is furnished with light wood furniture.










There were two libraries in the house. On the ground floor there was a collection of foreign books. In 1812, after the Battle of Borodino, Kutuzov first lived in this large room, and the day after his departure, Napoleon slept in the same library, on the same sofa.









On the second floor under the Golitsyns there was a library of Russian literature.










In all the rooms there are cute household items, interior items, and portraits.









In the former living room on the second floor there is a permanent exhibition “The World of Childhood in a Noble Estate”.
















In one wing, already renovated, there is a museum ticket office, a kiosk with a good selection of historical and local history literature, and exhibition halls.








Also in the outbuilding are works by sculptor Nina Konenkova donated to the museum.




And of course, part of the museum exhibition is dedicated to Pushkin, who visited Bolshie Vyazemy and spent a lot of time in neighboring Zakharov as a child.




The village of Zakharovo, located two kilometers from Bolshie Vyaz, was bought in 1804 by the grandmother of the future poet Maria Alekseevna Hannibal. Every summer, from May to October, for six years the entire Pushkin family spent in Zakharov. The Pushkins also lived here during the winter of 1808/1809.




From the estate of Pushkin's time, all that remains in Zakharov now is a huge pond and a few centuries-old trees; everything else in this very young museum is completely new.








In 1904, the then owner of Zakharov built a new home on the foundation of the old manor house. In 1993, during restoration work (!!!), this house burned down. Historians and restorers were unable to find any drawings, drawings, or even verbal descriptions of the house of M.A. Hannibal. Therefore, when recreating the estate, the architects took as a basis the standard design of an 18th-century manor house. In 1999, for the 200th anniversary of Pushkin’s birth, in just three months the “house of M. A. Hannibal” was rebuilt in Zakharov and a museum was opened.








The Zakharovsky house is of very modest size, two-story, the second floor is low, mezzanine.










On the ground floor of the house, in the front rooms, the interiors of Pushkin's time were recreated.


The rooms of Zakharov's house are small. In the most spacious room, the windows of which open onto a terrace with a columned portico, the furnishings of the Great Living Room are presented.








The furniture and interior items, of course, have nothing to do with the Pushkin-Hannibal family; they were collected from various museum funds.











In a small corner room it is shown what the office of the mistress of the estate might look like.










In the corridor there is a small collection of old chests.





Another, also very modest in size, corner room with an alcove is a reconstruction of a children's playroom and classroom.



Here you can see a desk and visual teaching aids.








A somewhat larger room is reserved for the dining room.









And finally, in the last room of the exhibition, as a tribute to the memory of Arina Rodionovna, objects of peasant life are collected.










Of course, it’s a pity that there are no memorial items in the exhibition. Nevertheless, the museum gives visitors the opportunity to find out how poor noble families lived - and there were incomparably more of them than representatives of high-profile aristocratic families with huge fortunes - on their estates near Moscow, Kaluga, Pskov, Penza and other estates.


Of course, Alexander Sergeevich himself believed that “Tsarskoye Selo is our Fatherland,” however, in 1830, on the eve of his wedding, the poet went not just anywhere, but specifically to Zakharovo. Apparently, on the eve of dramatic life changes, my soul demanded to take a sentimental journey to childhood.


The poet also visited Bolshie Vyazemy, which at one time inspired him both “Boris Godunov” and “The Queen of Spades”, the prototype of the heroine of which was Princess Natalya Petrovna Golitsyna, who often lived in her son’s estate.


It is logical that at the end of the 19th century the idea of ​​​​creating a Pushkin reserve in this corner of the Moscow region was born, but only a century later, thanks to a group of enthusiasts, the State Historical and Literary Museum-Reserve of A. S. Pushkin appeared on the territory of Bolshaya Vyaz and Zakharov. Yes, in both estates there are a lot of remakes and very few truly “Vyazma-Zakharov” exhibits, however, the museum gives another opportunity to plunge into our history. In addition, both estates regularly host themed parties, concerts, lectures, and meetings with writers and artists.

The Bolshie Vyazemy estate is an architectural and artistic ensemble of the 16th–19th centuries, a former royal, boyar and princely residence. It is located in the village of the same name in the Odintsovo district, near the town of Golitsyno. Together with the Zakharovo estate, it is part of the State Historical and Literary Museum-Reserve of A.S. Pushkin, created in 1987.

Immediately upon entering we see this bust of the hero of the occasion. A few kilometers from here is the family estate of the Hannibals “Zakharovo”, where young Sasha lived with Arina Rodionovna, so one can assume that he visited this estate, say, to steal apples or spy on the bathing peasant women there, the naughty man.

The central building of the estate is the palace of the princes Golitsyn, built in the second half of the 18th century.

During the retreat of the Russian army to Moscow, Kutuzov and Napoleon both spent the night in this house, and in the same bed, with an interval of exactly one night. Not on the same night, as someone might think, but a day later.

The word "Vyazyomy" most likely comes from the word "viscous", because both the river and the pond here are very muddy.

At the end of 1584, Tsar Fedor I Ioannovich donated the village of Nikolskoye-Vyazemy to Boris Godunov, who began large-scale construction on this land and built the first wooden palace.

And it was precisely in this place that the Russian and French armies stopped after the Battle of Borodino.

And in Peaceful time In addition to A.S. Pushkin, famous writers L.N. Tolstoy, N.V. Gogol, and V.Ya. Bryusov stayed here.

Here's an interesting detail - sundial. So you don't miss the afternoon snack.

24 linden trees are planted around the perimeter of the circle, and in the center of the circle there is a pole, its shadow points to the tree corresponding to a certain hour of time.

At the end of the 17th century, Peter the Great granted the estate to Prince Boris Golitsyn.

The Golitsyns lived here until the revolution.

Here is the main one, Governor General Dmitry Golitsyn, hero of the Patriotic War of 1812 and owner of the estate from 1813 to 1844.

And the manor house in Bolshiye Vyazemy, which has survived to this day, was built in 1784 by the great-grandson of Prince Boris Golitsyn, Colonel Nikolai Mikhailovich Golitsyn.

The only cafe nearby.

Stuffed cabbage rolls from Arina Rodionovna are something delicious!

Probably, especially for Pushkin, signs like this were placed everywhere so that he wouldn’t get confused about where to buy tickets to the estate. If anyone is interested, I can say that the toilet here is very clean, and I didn’t find any signs like “Sasha was here” on the walls.

At the end of the 16th century. Bolshiye Vyazemy belonged to Boris Godunov, who built a church here with a belfry of the Pskov type. According to legend, the Vyazemsk church was built in the same year as the bell tower of Ivan the Great. It is believed that the model for the church in Bolshie Vyazemy was the Archangel Cathedral of the Moscow Kremlin.

During the Time of Troubles, False Dmitry lived in the estate and Marina Mnishek stayed with his retinue.


What a miracle this Transfiguration Church is next to the estate!

I have never seen such a bell tower anywhere else. Completely flat. It's unclear how they got there.

As everywhere in Rus', there are unmarked graves on the territory of the temple.

Near the temple lie the ashes of Nikolai Sergeevich Pushkin, who died in 1807 at the age of six, the younger brother of the great Russian poet. Alexander himself, with his grandmother, Maria Alekseevna Hannibal, and his sister Olga, went to the Transfiguration Church from Zakharov, where there was no church of their own, and his first spiritual impressions and experiences are undoubtedly connected with the Bolshevyazemsk Church.

And finally, a few photos from inside the manor house. In one of these rooms, Pushkin met his future wife Natalya Goncharova, who had just started going out into the world.

The owner of the estate, Natalya Petrovna Golitsyna, who became the prototype of the old countess in The Queen of Spades, was the mother of the bride at the wedding of Pushkin and Goncharova.

We know how it all ended. So indirectly, the Bolshiye Vyazemy estate played a fatal role in Pushkin’s life.

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    Not far from Moscow, on the banks of the Vyazemka River, there is an old estate. It is famous as the former royal residence and poetic birthplace of A.S. Pushkin. On the territory of the estate several dozen monuments of Russian history and culture of the 16th - 19th centuries are collected: a palace, a temple, a park, outbuildings. The Bolshiye Vyazemy estate preserves a rich cultural heritage.

    The fate of A. Pushkin is inextricably linked with it. Not far from Bolshie Vyazem, on his grandmother’s estate, the poet spent his childhood. Subsequently, the prototype of the estate repeatedly appeared on the pages of Pushkin’s works. In 1994, on the territory of the Bolshie Vyazemy and Zakharovo estates, the State Historical and Literary Museum-Reserve of A. S. Pushkin was created.

    What to see

    In the center of the estate stands the ancient Church of the Transfiguration. This is a beautiful white stone building, decorated with vertical towers, decorative openings and arches. The architecture of the Church of the Transfiguration turned out to be so unusual for its time that it gave rise to a new type of temple, now called Godunov. An elegant three-span belfry was built next to the church, dating back to the same time as the temple itself. The entire complex is surrounded by a beautiful brick fence. The Church of the Transfiguration is listed among the most valuable historical and artistic elements of the Bolshie Vyazemy estate.

    Opposite the church there is a cozy park with access to a pond. Small paths divide it into even, neat segments. In the park you can see the monument to Alexander Pushkin, erected on the 200th anniversary of the poet’s birth. There is also a memorial stone laid here in honor of the Russian and French armies stopping at Bolshiye Vyazemy in 1812. A small boat station has been built on the shore of the pond. The cost of renting a boat is 220 RUB/hour.

    The Church of the Transfiguration is listed among the most valuable historical and artistic elements of the Bolshie Vyazemy estate.

    At the same time as the park, the house-palace of Prince Golitsyn was founded. It was he who became the prototype of the estate of the famous rake Eugene Onegin. There is an interesting exhibition inside the palace. It tells about the life of the estate in Pushkin's times. It is known that the palace contained a huge library and archive with rare documents. But the interiors are much more interesting to explore with a guide.

    We stopped by (on the road)! As it turned out, the last time we visited was somewhere before 1994 (when Vyazemy and Zakharovo were united). Results: The church, more or less “fresh”, the belfry, even “fresh”, the lower church has been restored (the interior is completely new), the top is open only once a year (they said on the Assumption), there is a lot of work there, and even on the walkway NOT allowed!; The Horse Yard was restored; The palace, from the outside, looks very good, on the inside, peelings and leaks are already visible, but overall not bad. But the “filling” is much better, much better! Especially the last halls of the second floor (children’s rooms and things), and even two libraries !; The park has been Slightly landscaped, and there are three observation decks on the shore (in my opinion, unnecessary, except in autumn-winter). ... continuation src="/jpg/plus.gif">

    TWO busts of Our Everything appeared, and a monument in honor of the Russian/French camp. Ticket 200 (as part of the excursion - 350), PARK - 30 ("forced" service), exhibitions - 100-150 each, toilet (at the parking lot) - 10 ,drink tea (2) + three rolls - 350! In short, the tendency is clear - to pay FOR EVERYTHING and separately. Therefore, they did NOT take photos! The park was NOT impressive, and the “shore”, as beautiful as it was, remains so! take an excursion, if possible, on weekdays, and just join in (they don’t “condemn”). It left a pleasant impression, but with this “trend”, EVERYTHING will become more expensive (almost for no reason!).

    The museum complex is wonderful. Here you can order individual excursions(almost 2,000 rubles + entry tickets, call in advance), and visit the so-called “duty excursions”, which are held daily at 12.00 and 14.00, the ticket price is 350 rubles per person, there are no benefits for children. We were on just such a “duty excursion” on Saturday at 12.00, there were less than 10 people, the duration was more than 1.5 hours, we visited the horse yard, the temple, the park and the palace itself with all the exhibitions.
    The excursion is mainly dedicated to the owners of the estate - the Golitsyns - rather than to Pushkin, who visited here only as a child. ... continuation src="/jpg/plus.gif">

    We really enjoyed.

    traveler ★★★★★

    (14-01-2017)

    I definitely liked the museum. As the Great Schemer says, “not everything is smooth, but the main thing is that the chairs are intact.” If you want to get sunstroke, then go to France. But here is Russia and nothing can be done about it. Thank you for restoring at least something. Bow to the director of the museum, who they say literally lives the museum. Go to the toilet and you will understand what is good and what is bad..

    A small cozy manor. Beautiful church. Only the ground floor is open. Everything there has been renovated, but it’s a bit cramped. Their museums were visited only in the main estate. We did not attend the current exhibitions in the outbuilding. The main manor house was restored with high quality, a huge amount of work was done. I really liked it inside. Concerts are held in one of the halls (the library on the 1st floor) classical music. The park is being improved and looks good for mid-April; I think it will be green and beautiful in the summer. In principle, the employees are friendly, but I was a little surprised by the situation that did not happen to us. ... continuation src="/jpg/plus.gif">

    Immediately after us, an intelligent wedding couple with about 5 guests came to the ticket office and paid for a photo session in the halls of the estate at the ticket office. When they arrived at the house itself, the grandmother at the entrance told them for about 15 minutes that they still had to coordinate this with the director of the museum, although the ticket office didn’t tell them anything like that. Somehow the employees of one museum need to learn to negotiate among themselves and not spoil people’s holiday.

    The church and belfry are magnificent, the manor house gives an approximate idea of ​​the interiors of the 17th-19th centuries, because... the original furnishings have not been preserved. The park is small, the pond is completely overgrown. Two things seemed negative to us: constant noise from the road and an antediluvian toilet.

    Were on March 8th, for independent tourists excursions on weekends at 12 and 14 o'clock, approximately 1.5-2 hours, excursion cost 250 rubles/person, photo 175 rubles. or self-excursion without a guide. A beautiful church, but only the ground floor is open, the second floor is closed, restoration is not underway, and the main highlight, on this moment The only such original belfry. The restoration of the estate has been completed, 2 floors are open, beautiful interiors, but the park is not well-groomed, although this may be true in March. I recommend... continuation src="/jpg/plus.gif">

    combine with the Zakharovo estate.

    Avtodor ★★★★★

    (25-11-2013)

    Definitely worth a visit! At 12.00 and 14.00 on Saturdays and Sundays there are on-duty excursions for approximately 1.5-2 hours. The guide's story was a little chaotic, but still interesting. The manor house has been almost completely restored; landscaping work is still underway in the park. And regarding the closure of the park: well, if modern people cannot behave like human beings and make a mess everywhere... they mutilate trees, leave garbage... there are even notices about this.
    yes and winter schedule seems to be talking about the park closing at 20... continuation src="/jpg/plus.gif">

    00, which is quite acceptable.

    Konstantin ★★★★★

    (28-07-2013)

    I visited here after a 10-year break and saw dramatic changes. The estate has been restored (work is still ongoing), fenced, the park is neat with beautiful flower beds and new monuments. There is parking and a clean toilet. Visiting the park is free. I walked around the main house for almost 2 hours looking at everything in detail. Ticket 150 rubles, photo 175 (a little expensive). On the 2nd floor there is a stunning exhibition of artifacts from the Napoleonic wars (weapons and other items). There is an exhibition dedicated to Tarkovsky in the outbuilding, but I didn’t have enough strength. ... continuation src="/jpg/plus.gif">

    And the temple is magnificent.

    margarita ★★★☆☆

    (9-07-2013)

    I live nearby, but it’s impossible to get into the park because... it works from 9 to 18.
    Even in the heat of summer. You come home from work and everything is closed. I have lived next to this park all my life. We always walked there, went skiing in winter, but now everything is closed. The park is now well maintained, but it is for employees, not people. The park employees are angry, dissatisfied with their lives and salaries. Who needs such beauty? We go for a walk in Zakharovo Park. A completely different attitude towards people, I want to come again.

    Ekaterina ★★★★☆

    (18-08-2012)

    Active restoration work is underway, preparations are being made for the arrival of statesmen during the celebration of the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Borodino! A beautiful well-kept park, a well-maintained estate, a powerful temple and an extraordinary bell tower - all this can be seen in Vyazemy. The Zakharovo estate is located nearby!

    The manor house is currently undergoing restoration, which is promised to be completed by the 200th anniversary of the Napoleonic invasion, i.e. by September 2012. A serious drawback of B. Vyazem as a vacation spot is constant noise from the Mozhaisk highway. And you can’t escape the influence of the growing city of Golitsyno, which covers the reserve from almost all sides.
    Of interest to lovers and connoisseurs of Russian history and, to a lesser extent, to amateur Pushkin scholars.

    Lesya ★★★★☆

    (6-12-2011)

    Nice place, I really liked the park. Especially the sundial. I remember the little belfry! Almost everything is under restoration, a lot of things are not shown. But we have many places that need repairs, so we can only be glad that restoration efforts are underway here.

    Local ★★☆☆☆

    (19-11-2011)

    I live next to this museum, if I may say so. Complete remake and sucks. Not a single real exhibit. Whether Pushkin was here is a big question. At a conscious age - most likely not.

    We visited here on 05/02/10. A beautiful restored palace, park, dam. We arrived at 12:00 for the excursion. I liked the guide, she explained everything well, and took us around the park and buildings. And I liked the museum exhibition, there is a lot of things, there is something for antiquity lovers to see. I really liked the things embroidered with beads, and Dollhouse nothing either))) Lots of books from that time, porcelain. And the park, to be honest, is not very good. The proximity of a busy highway spoils the whole impression ((And the flowers... continuation src="/jpg/plus.gif">

    there weren’t any in the park(((They would really decorate the estate!

    A beautiful place, a well-preserved estate.
    Excursions for unorganized tourists are still at 12.00 and 14.00 on weekends.

    The impression was spoiled by drunken weddings on site and a boring lady tour guide. The place is very interesting, but the story about it didn’t work out.

    For such a large house, there are still not enough restored interiors, but on the second floor there is a piece of a nursery with a doll’s house. The daughter was dragged by the ears and was glued to the spot. Otherwise everything is beautiful and well maintained. They just constantly ask for a ticket for filming and the caretakers discuss their business very loudly and for some reason they drink tea in the halls, rattling dishes. The park is small and a little neglected, which gives it a special charm.

    A nice place. The buildings included in the complex have been restored estate-museum. The church and bell tower are interesting. There is also something to see inside the museum premises. Comparison with Zakharov is pointless. In Zakharov everything was restored again for Pushkin’s anniversary. THERE only the foundation of the house remained original.
    Bolshie Vyazemy a good place to stop by on a fine Sunday day.

    Alena ★★★★☆

    (4-12-2007)

    We visited in the fall of 2007. Okay, nice. The estate is in excellent condition, there are many signs, however, it is not always possible to find everything indicated, but we will assume that this is our mistake. The river bank is wild, full of weeds and traces of gatherings. However, in general, the visit remains a positive impression.

    Why the Bolshie Vyazemy estate became a historical and literary museum named after Pushkin is not entirely clear. The only connection is the location nearby of the Hannibal estate, where the future classic of Russian literature spent his childhood. In fact, this is a memorial to the princely family of Golitsyn, one of the oldest and most numerous, which is replete with famous personalities. The place preserves the memory of Boris Godunov, who built a dam and a church here, which have been preserved and are still in operation today.

    The Tsar's palace burned down, Peter the Great granted land to Prince Golitsyn, and he founded the Bolshie Vyazemy estate. The princely residence house was built in 1784 by Nikolai Mikhailovich Golitsyn in the style of early classicism. The western facade (in the title photo of the review) faces the pond on the Vyazemka River and is notable for its cylindrical projection. The pediment is decorated with the Golitsyn family coat of arms with princely symbols.

    The risalit is equipped with balconies with metal bars, the same as on the fence of the entrance porch. The roof is surrounded by a low balustrade, and above the risalit there is a viewing belvedere in the form of a faceted turret. The eastern façade is flat, facing park area, preceded by a colorful lawn with a flower garden. On the lawn there are large letters with Pushkin’s surname and initials; the anniversary date is clearly and hopelessly outdated.

    Bolshie Vyazemy estate, tour of the palace

    Internal layout central building The Bolshie Vyazemy estate is somewhat different from most estates. There is no enfilade sequence of rooms; each has several doorways. Nevertheless, the museum staff tries to prevent chaotic movement of visitors by directing tourists along standard route. The tour begins from the Pink Living Room, where visitors walk up the grand staircase.

    It goes without saying that the color of the wall upholstery corresponds to the name, or vice versa. Furnishings include a sofa with a rectangular table, a dressing table with a large mirror and bronze candlesticks. In the corner there is a cabinet with a decorative vase, next to it is a female bust on a pedestal. The most notable exhibit is a painting from the 18th century, Lady on Gothic Ruins, the author of the work is unknown.

    Next comes one of the largest rooms in terms of area, a multi-volume library of foreign literature, occupying tall cabinets. The room is partially occupied by portraits depicting heroes of the War of 1812, the portrait of Kutuzov is in the center, near the stairs. Without this device, it is impossible to get books from the upper shelves, but you can also view the portrait gallery from below.

    All the paintings that decorate the Bolshiye Vyazyomy estate in the library hall are copies of the well-known series by George Dow. Placing portraits of commanders here is more than justified, because the Bolshie Vyazemy estate was at the center of the confrontation between two armies. At first, it was in the foreign library that Kutuzov’s headquarters was located, and here the healers tried to save the wounded Bagration.

    Dmitry Vladimirovich Golitsyn, a cavalry general, is recognized as one of the heroes of the confrontation with Napoleon. The prince was awarded all the highest Russian awards and orders from several other countries. His portrait is placed separately from the others, on the opposite wall of the foreign library hall. Since 1813, Dmitry Golitsyn inherited the Bolshie Vyazemy estate from his deceased brother. After the war, the prince was the military governor-general of Moscow from 1820 until his death in 1844.

    Hall dedicated to the enemy

    A separate French hall at the Bolshie Vyazyo estate is dedicated to the enemy army and its leader. The genius of Napoleon Bonaparte as a commander and statesman was never denied by all his opponents. The exhibition is designed in the form of an installation depicting the commander's reception room in the field. The dummy of Napoleon's adjutant is shown in a tense pose, awaiting a call to the emperor or another command.

    Near the entrance door there is a profile portrait of Napoleon, a copy of the work of Paul Delaroche. The silent sentry fulfills his duty to protect the commander. In addition to his image, on the walls are portraits of his closest associates, the marshals of France. Notable in every sense is the exhibit opposite the adjutant's desk, a French vase. The product made of faience and bronze with gilding depicts the victorious Great Army. Unfulfilled hopes!

    The Russian-French military rivalry, initiated by Napoleon's ambitions, remained the only conflict between these countries. Russia offered nationwide resistance to the invaders on an unprecedented scale, complementing the efforts of the regular army. With a victorious march across Europe, the armies of Alexander the First liberated the enslaved countries and entered Paris. The war did not kill in Russia interest in the culture of France and the popularity of products from there.

    French products were also used in everyday life, but the main one was decorative use. High quality and artistic merits made ordinary objects into works of art. The showcase in the wall of the window openings of the French Hall contains examples of painted porcelain, plates and figurines of soldiers. Those who visited the Bolshie Vyazyomy estate are convinced of what has been said with their own eyes.

    Dining room, Round living room and Boudoir

    The Bolshie Vyazemy estate is not at all impressive with its dining room; in many estates the furnishings are richer and more decorative. Candlesticks made of bronze and painted faience stand out for their charm, especially against the backdrop of a half-empty table. The interior is formed by arranging tables and pedestals with souvenir vases and clocks, and a crockery buffet in the corner. The skillful drapery of window openings contributes to the appearance of the room.

    The local artistic attraction is the painting by Peter Lütke - Mausoleum in Charlottenburg Park, and the memorial is the portrait of N.F. Golitsyn 1730s. The end wall of the oblong hall represents the ancestors of the Golitsyns - the princes and princess Chernyshovs. Like other paintings from the Bolshie Vyazemy estate, the portraits are copies of works by unknown masters of the past.

    The Round Living Room literally corresponds to its name; it is located on the first floor of the risalit. Filigree laid parquet resembles a luxurious carpet with geometric patterns. The central object of the round hall is a marble fireplace with a large mirror above it. The second attraction here is a copy of the famous sculpture Sleeping Ariadne, which was not included in the frame.

    Brothers Boris and Dmitry Vladimirovich Golitsyn were fans of traveling abroad, from where they brought works of art. Drawings and engravings with images of cities visited are hung on the walls of the Round Living Room. Paintings and display cases with brought souvenirs complement the interior of the room. It is completed by an elegant bronze chandelier with many arms.

    The boudoir with blue upholstery is one of the remarkable rooms that the Bolshie Vyazemy estate is proud of. The last interior decorated by the owners indicates the use of the room as a living room for coffee and gambling. The latter is confirmed by a card table with playing cards laid out. However, architectural details, most notably the alcove for the bed with columns, give away the sleeping area.

    The room served as a bedroom for another of the 18th-century ancestors, Nikolai Mikhailovich Golitsyn. It is almost obvious that Natalya Petrovna, the mother of Boris and Dmitry Golitsyn, spent the night here in her old age. She is unanimously considered the prototype of the heroine of Pushkin’s Queen of Spades, who allegedly suggested the plot of the work. The left wall of the Boudoir is decorated with two portraits of her, in her youth and in her old age.

    All-male premises

    The men's front office was Dmitry Golitsyn's home work space when he was the military governor of Moscow. The furnishings and decoration of the room made it possible to receive untimely visitors and to work on papers. It was possible to relax during breaks from classes. Notable in the men's office is the tiled surface, heated by a stove firebox hidden behind the wall.

    The ceremonial portraits of Dmitry Vladimirovich and his wife were painted by the Russified Frenchman Francois Risse (Franz Ivanovich). Copies of them are hung in the office, designed to emphasize the morality of the family. Above the working secretary is a portrait of Emperor Nicholas I, during whose reign almost all of Golitsyn’s high service took place. The interior is complemented by cabinets and a stand with books; the prince was a lover of literature.

    Pushkin was well acquainted with the Governor-General, but after his exile he was under secret police surveillance. It was Golitsyn who supervised the supervisory activities, but did not allow any special zeal from his subordinates in this regard. Pushkin even met his future wife at the governor’s ball, but in his Moscow palace. Golitsyn's book collection included Pushkin's works.

    Reported highly appreciated poet of the Governor General's business qualities and performance results. Golitsyn revered Pushkin in full accordance with the strength of his literary gift, but performed his official duties regularly. Books published during his lifetime, displayed open, clearly emphasize not only the official’s interest in literature, but also the desire to delve into the mood of the person under his supervision.

    The Masonic hall was a common feature for many aristocratic estates, the Bolshie Vyazemy estate was among others. There was nothing strange about Dmitry and Boris Golitsyn belonging to the Freemasons. Higher-ranking people were also members of the lodges, starting with Emperor Alexander the First. Many of the guests of the estate were also Freemasons, starting with Kutuzov and Pushkin.

    Despite the feigned secrecy, Russian Freemasons often created similar exhibitions about an allegedly secret society. Portraits of high-ranking nobles who are among the initiates are also posted openly here. The symbolism and rituals of the Freemasons contained borrowings from associations of guilds of the Middle Ages, elements of different religions. The goals of unification and humanization of humanity have not been achieved and are not expected.

    Second floor of the manor house

    A wide staircase with an original-looking railing leads to the second floor of the manor house. The design of the staircase is identical to the content of the exhibition of the first upper room, so we combine several photographs into a slider. It is enough to look at them to understand that this is the Hunting Hall. Few of the aristocrats of the past did not suffer from this hobby; the Bolshie Vyazemy estate dedicated its premises to this same passion.




    The hunting hall, as well as the staircase leading to it, are richly decorated with items from the trophies obtained. Animal skins and dissected heads, horns separated and mounted on hooks sit side by side with stuffed animals of smaller prey. The cabinets are filled with various hunting accessories and supplies, and there are many specialized publications in display cases. The content of the paintings in this purely male room is also specific.

    The Living Room is a different matter; in this room the Bolshie Vyazyomy estate invites lovely ladies and gentlemen together. The richness of decoration, the abundance of furniture and works of art amazes the eye after simpler rooms. Equal in area to the Dining Room located below it, the Living Room looks more spacious due to higher ceilings. Of the furniture, the most impressive were the backs of the sofa and armchairs.

    Luxurious light wood corner clock with gilt bronze overlays and eagle top. A huge mirror allows you to view the entire room, even the outside view, while standing with your back to the windows. The picturesque images of women are good, although guardians of morality will not like some. The impression from the Living Room was magnificent, half of everything that the Bolshie Vyazemy estate gave.

    Library of Russian Literature

    The Russian library is not located entirely above the foreign one, as expected, but above part of it, but it occupies the entire Round Salon. A decent amount of native literature remained, although the Bolsheviks borrowed a lot for schools and clubs, although they didn’t burn it, thank God. On the top boards of the bookcases there are plaster busts of outstanding thinkers and writers, and in the middle there is a large table.





    Departing somewhat from recreating the original interior, the staff put some publications on display stands. The books are open on the title pages so that visitors can identify them; the cover glass will prevent them from being flipped through and spoiled. The tattered nature of the spines of the volumes stored in the cabinets clearly demonstrates that the library for the Bolshiye Vyazyomy estate was not just collected, the books were actively read.

    Salon and Gallery

    The salon is adjacent to the Russian book collection, located above most of the foreign square, with military portraits. The obvious purpose of the Salon was to hold various public entertainment events. When the Tyutchev building burned down in 2006, the hall housed the local painting collection. Now there are fewer works, you can view them quickly.

    The Music Salon is furnished extremely modestly, but the explanations give the objects a long history. For some reason the concert grand piano does not have a pianist's chair, which indicates a temporary lull in use musical instrument. The significant area of ​​the premises allows us to organize both concerts and literary evenings here. There are also temporary thematic exhibitions that come with their own equipment for display.

    The gallery is the longest room of the Golitsyn house, from the western to the eastern facade. Here the Bolshie Vyazyomy estate most of all appears as an institution of a museum nature, with more exhibits than anywhere else. The small, almost corridor width of the Gallery allows you to view all the exhibits in one pass; usually the excursion goes from the previous Salon to the Children's Room.




    The gallery has concentrated a significant number of paintings of various genres. In addition to paintings and furniture, there is quite a lot of specific exhibition equipment, showcases and specially made stands. They display attire of various times and classes, objects of applied art and household utensils. As for the furniture, the sofa that looked like an aquarium in front of a round table with a vase, and the couch with blue upholstery seemed original.

    Children's room and Green living room

    Premises for children's stay and entertainment often change their purpose as they grow older. However, the Bolshie Vyazemy estate has retained its childish flavor; the Children's room is recognizable by its purpose. All the furniture here is miniature, suitable for children's age: both the books on the shelf and the set of dishes in the sideboard. Among the genre paintings are touching portraits of children of different ages.

    Not a very elegant museum container for antique dolls and children's toys; they look like they are in captivity. This is probably justified to ensure the safety of rather rare exhibits. But childhood is like one of the eras, only on the scale of the individual. Toys from growing up are remembered for a long time, sometimes forever. That’s why some people feel a sense of tenderness in the Children’s Room, like an unconscious memory.

    The Green Living Room is partially located above the underlying Pink Living Room, which means the end of the inspection of the Golitsyn house is approaching. The purpose of this small and cozy room can be guessed from some of the exhibits, deliberately laid out in plain sight. It’s hard not to notice the album for collecting butterflies on the folded table top of the secretary; even the dried victims themselves are visible.

    However, this is hardly an album; fragile dried insects cannot be preserved that way. Rather, it is a backing removed for display with butterflies pinned with special pins. Nearby lies a box for the entomological collection, ensuring the safety of the exhibits. The secretary's many drawers can accommodate a collection of significant volume. The chairs here are not for relaxation, as the ropes warn about.

    Exit and surrounding area

    We go down from the second floor not along the main staircase, but along the “back” staircase, in the south-eastern corner of the building. There is nothing remarkable about this descent, except for the twilight and the bust of Pushkin appearing on the way. This is not the last image of the great guest who was occasionally received by the Bolshie Vyazyomy estate. A not so small connection between Alexander Sergeevich and the Golitsyn estate was discovered during a visit.

    Exiting to the east side of the building, visitors move to the infield park, which also has interesting exhibits. The plantings of the green zone are quite mature; the regular nature of the original arrangement is difficult to discern. The monument to Pushkin was erected on the occasion of his 200th birthday, the Moscow Governor General, and even in 2013. They must have accidentally missed a similar anniversary of Borodino.




    For some reason, the Bolshiye Vyazemy estate equipped a much brighter, well-kept flower garden near the bust of Dmitry Vladimirovich Golitsyn. Pushkin’s is more modest; behind his bust there is another landmark, a sundial. The ensemble is complemented by a monument in honor of the stop at the estate of two armies - the retreating Russian and the overtaking French. This interpretation of the memory of historical events is reliable, but where is the patriotism?

    Ancient temple and something else

    To the south of the park area is the oldest of the buildings that complement the Bolshie Vyazemy estate. The white stone church, originally called Trinity, then became Spaso-Preobrazhensky, was erected before the end of the 16th century, by order of Boris Godunov. There were also not quite worthy people here, like False Demetrius the First and his passion Maria Mnishek. The heroes of the nation also visited the church, the same Golitsyns and Pushkin himself.

    Structurally and in appearance, the temple is unusual both for those years and for our time, causing delight and admiration. As many as seven chapters crown the majestic two-story cathedral. The well-kept grounds and the restored church still warmly welcome believers; the cathedral is still operational. Near the fence facing west, towards the pond, there is a separate belfry of the same years of construction. It resembles Veliky Novgorod.

    Even further south and closer to the reservoir is the building of the Horse Yard, which in no way resembles a stable. On this very spot was located the wooden palace of Boris Godunov, which later burned down. On its foundation, his associate Boris Alekseevich Golitsyn, who received land from Peter the Great, built a family home. Much later, his descendant Nikolai Mikhailovich rebuilt the building into a horse yard, the name has survived to this day.

    A lengthy reconstruction returned the Horse Yard to its original appearance, while simultaneously enriching archaeologists with numerous finds from Godunov’s time. Nowadays there is a museum exhibition here, covering both the reign of Tsar Boris and the time of Peter the Great. Careful attitude towards the historical heritage has led to the fact that the Bolshiye Vyazemy estate has acquired another educational object.

    Bolshie Vyazyomy Estate – for nature lovers

    Those travelers for whom the Bolshiye Vyazemy estate has not completely drained all their strength can be advised to extend the hike. The Vyazemka River, dammed by order of Boris Godunov, formed a picturesque reservoir to the west of the inspected objects. There is a boat pier on the shore, and a walk on the water surface is possible.

    You can simply stroll along the shore and admire the natural views and inhabitants. The surrounding picturesque landscapes will serve as an excellent backdrop for those who like to take photographs as a souvenir.

    The journey to the immediate vicinity of the capital turned out to be so multifaceted and varied. The noble estate of Bolshie Vyazyomy and the area around this object gave both impressions from various museum exhibitions and something previously unknown about famous people. The park beauties are complemented by natural ones, so it was exciting and fun. Without imposing your own route, we recommend that you think about the trip.

     

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