Verkhovyna village, Ivano-Frankivsk region, Carpathians. Verkhovyna: The Carpathians in all their beauty

For me it became Verkhovyna - a village (5.9 thousand inhabitants) on the Black Cheremosh River, which fully justifies its name. The air is clear here, bright sun, and the mountains themselves around are much higher and more inaccessible. Judging by topographic map, at the same time, Verkhovyna is slightly higher than Vorokhta - but its landscape is much more mountainous. However, there is a lot that is not as it seems: for example, beautiful name was given to the village only in 1962, and before that it was the village of Zhabie, once the largest (11 thousand inhabitants, twice the current size) in all of Austria-Hungary.
From Verkhovyna I went to Mount Pop-Ivan, and this hike took all my strength - so the story about Verkhovyna will be brief and incomplete. But - that is. I'll probably come back here someday.

There are only 30 kilometers between Vorokhta and Verkhovyna, but approximately halfway the minibus overcomes the Krivopolsky pass (969 meters) - the second highest in the Ukrainian Carpathians after Yablunytskyi. There are mountains here on all sides - on the right is Chornohora, on the left is the Pokuttsko-Bukovina ridge, between them are the valleys of the Prut and Cheremosh, and the pass is on the bridge of the watershed. It has beautiful views, but I sat at the wrong window and only photographed a stop with a beautiful name:

People in the mountains. Even though they have forgotten Bartka, Trembita and Molfars, they are still Hutsuls:

We descend from the pass. Numerous wooden chapels are also an integral feature of the Hutsul region:

Like other mountain villages, Verkhovyna stretches along the Cheremosh in a narrow strip for about 7 kilometers. And unlike Yaremcha and Vorokhta, which have something interesting along their entire length, Verkhovyna, in principle, is much poorer in attractions, and 5 out of 7 kilometers can be skipped with a clear conscience. And this is the view from the bridge in the center:

The Black Cheremosh is much cleaner compared to the Prut, and in general seemed to me the most beautiful of the Carpathian rivers. It also has a loud and quite recognizable splashing sound - I even saw a cafe along the road called “Noise of Cheremosh”. Behind the bridge is a bus station:

The road in the Hutsul region forms a ring: Kolomyia - Yaremcha - Vorokhta - Verkhovyna - Krivorovnya - Kosiv - Kolomyia, and to go clockwise (that is, back to Vorokhta and beyond) you need to take the Ivano-Frankivsk minibus, and to go counterclockwise - to Kolomyia. There is a bazaar adjacent to the bus station, so it is crowded, and you can come across very folklore images. Notice, by the way, what kind of legs the old lady has - not at all senile, this is what it means to live in the mountains:

View along the Cheremosh in the other direction:

The other end of the bridge opens onto the main square:

I asked the taxi drivers in advance how long it would be to Dzembronya (the village from where they go to Pop Ivan) - they answered, 150 hryvnia. They say it’s divine - many take 250. The bus goes there once a day at 12 o’clock. Okay, I thought, after Kazakhstan we’ll break through here!

In the next alley there was a cafe-bar-hotel "Ukrainochka". The bartender girl is not only a waitress, but also the hotel administrator, so you can only check in here while the cafe is open, and in addition to the room key, you are also given a code for the external lock. There are only about a dozen rooms, but they are huge, cozy, with modern plumbing - really, one of the best where I have stayed... and for only 150 hryvnia, which is very cheap even for Western Ukraine. Moreover, the cafe, which looked absolutely ordinary, turned out to be quite worthy of the pretentious Yaremche restaurants, only 2-3 times cheaper: a varied Hutsul cuisine, and of excellent quality. In general, the Road has given me a good gift in recent days.

View from my room window:

Last shot from evening Verkhovyna:

I walked around the village only two nights after Pop Ivan. But here it is worth saying that I left the hotel completely broken - my body was tired from the 25-kilometer hike in the mountains, and my head was tired from an excess of beauty and impressions. In general, after wandering around Verkhovyna without much enthusiasm, I realized that I couldn’t do it anymore and that I only had enough strength to get to Kolomyia. Now, of course, I scold myself for this - I missed something in Verkhovyna itself, but more importantly, I didn’t go to Krivorovnya (which almost touches Verkhovyna), the local “museum village”, where there are 14 museums of all kinds. Now, of course, I really regret it, especially since I had plenty of time... but such laziness attacks me very rarely, not to say for the first time, and this is probably not without reason.

Opposite the department store, almost best example"neo-Hutsul" style, there is a museum "Hutsulshchyna" in the building of a former school. I didn’t go inside, nor did I search around the villages for the museum of the film “Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors” in the very hut-town where Parajanov filmed many episodes.

But right behind the museum, a wooden Assumption Church of the 18th century was discovered, the largest in the whole Western Ukraine- it clearly shows that Zhabier was the largest village in Austria-Hungary.

And as usual - metal with embossing on top of the boards:

Here is Stalin's district committee:

Behind which is a military monument:

The mountain in the background separates Verkhovyna and Krivorivnya:

Wooden stop:

Apparently a new church:

But in general, I was tired of walking, realized that I didn’t want anything anymore and turned back:

As for Pop-Ivan, even at the hotel they tried to dissuade me from going there - supposedly, the climb would take 12 hours one way, this is a hike for at least two days, and it’s not easy to get to Dzembronya. But as I understand it, they had in mind another route, probably more beautiful and difficult, but if you go to Pop-Ivan along the standard path, it’s just a day from morning to evening... if you get to Dzembronya in the morning. Well, I, upset, took a ticket to the gate to Hoverla, but at the gate to Dzembronya I realized - no, I will break through to Pop-Ivan!
This lapel itself in the village of Iltsy looks like this - the frame was taken on the way back:

“The scooter is not mine, I just posted an ad” (c), mainly for the sake of a note about barter for timber, which, I think, quite characterizes this mountainous region:

And as always, I was lucky, or rather, my intuition did not let me down. There was a minibus at the restaurant, and at the minibus there were tourists, and clearly not from a bourgeois country. I just walked up and asked: “Are you going to Pop Ivan? Take me with you!” The tourists sent me to the driver, the driver - to the instructor, the instructor again to the tourists - on the bus, as it happened for me free place. The guys turned out to be from Kyiv, based in Yaremche. Got in touch since then ladna_kobieta , and even provided me with a couple of photos for the next part. Now, by the way, she is posting, where I never went.

Upstream the Cheremosh the target is already visible - those two mountains with squiggles on the tops. To the right - Ukhaty stone with a rock (1898m):

To the left is Pop-Ivan himself (2021m) with the ruins of the observatory:

Finally, an unidentified wooden church in the village of Krasnik, halfway to Dzembronya:

And then the minibus drove for a long time along a narrow rocky road without asphalt - an almost vertical slope on the right, the noise of the Cheremosh on the left. Then I realized that 150 hryvnia for such a trip is quite an adequate price (especially in Ukraine, where gasoline, and therefore taxis, are more expensive compared to Russia). Along the road - some settlements, guest houses, an abandoned sawmill... And finally - a stop in the center of Dzembronya, which turned out to be an ordinary Hutsul village, freely scattered along the slopes (the frame was taken on the way back):

About the completion of the Path Up - the next two parts.

CARPATHIAN Rus'-2012
.
On the Galician plain
. Main station.
. Stryisky Park and touches to the center.

Ivano-Frankivsk region

VERKHOVINA- an urban-type settlement, the administrative center of the Verkhovinsky district of the Ivano-Frankivsk region (Ukraine). It is located at an altitude of 618 meters above sea level on the Black Cheremosh River (a tributary of the Cheremosh), 150 km from Ivano-Frankivsk and 31 km from the Vorokhta railway station. Verkhovyna in the Carpathians is called the most elevated areas of the terrain.

The village of Verkhovyna was called Zhabye until 1962. The first mentions of it date back to 1424. Beautiful Carpathian nature, surrounding peaks - Mount Pushkar (812 m), Magurka (1025 m), Sinitsy (1186 m), White Mare (1473 m), steep waves of the Cheremosh, original Hutsul culture, folk traditions attract numerous tourists to Verkhovyna. The village offers a picturesque view of Mountain peaks- the beginning of the Montenegrin ridge. Of great interest to tourists is Mount Pop-Ivan (2020 m) with the old Polish observatory on the top. From Verkhovyna to the beginning walking route can be reached by car.

Verkhovyna: recreation, accommodation, prices
It is not difficult to find accommodation in Verkhovyna, but it is better to book good accommodation in advance. The village is very large, there are recreation centers, boarding houses, hotels, rural (green) tourism is well developed in Verkhovyna. Owners of private estates hospitably open their doors to travelers. The cost of a holiday in Verkhovyna in winter depends on the proximity to the ski lift and the comfort of your stay. And in the summer it’s mainly for comfort.

Holidays in Verkhovyna will be of interest to true connoisseurs of nature, as well as the long-standing traditions of the Hutsul region. Ancient folk customs and rituals, legends and fairy tales have been preserved here. To see this, just visit Verkhovyna at Christmas, Easter and other holidays. Every year, on January 9, the “Hutsul Carol” holiday is organized in Verkhovyna. At the festival you can hear carols, trembita music, and violins.

Winter holidays in Verkhovyna are mainly ski holiday, there are two ski lifts in the area, one of which is located directly in Verkhovyna (the slope of Mount Pushkar), and the second in the village. Iltsi (slope of Mount Zapidki), 5 km from Verkhovyna on the road to Vorokhta. Both ski slopes have a northern exposure, which allows snow cover to remain on them from the beginning of December to the end of March. There are several ski equipment rental shops and a dozen qualified ski guides in the area. Well, if you ski slopes seem too simple, then 52 km from Verkhovyna there is the famous ski resort “Bukovel”.

Spring in Verkhovyna is one of the most popular types tourism can be considered water tourism (rafting on a mountain river). The Verkhovyna region is interesting due to the complex rapids, mainly Black and partially White Cheremoshev. Water tourists have chosen the banks of these rivers back in the early seventies.

Summer recreation in Verkhovyna is mainly associated with “silent hunting”: picking berries, mushrooms, and medicinal herbs.

Verkhovyna Attractions
In Verkhovyna there is a private museum of Hutsul life and musical instruments of Roman Kumlyk. In a small rural house, a collection of violins, national household items, musical instruments and much more has been collected. And all this is supported by stories, playing instruments and jokes from the owner of the museum.

Directions
The best way to get to Verkhovyna is from Ivano-Frankivsk - by bus or minibus. Travel time is about three hours. You can get there from Chernivtsi (but transport runs less frequently), with a transfer through Kosiv.

To Ivano-Frankivsk- 135 km
Airport- No
Railway station- No
Bus station- There is
Radio taxi- No
Before ski lift - 2 km
Architectural monuments- There is
Bathing places, beaches:- Cheremosh River
Cafes, bars, restaurants- There is
Mineral water- No
Hiking in the mountains- There is

The Verkhovyna region is the highest mountainous region of Ukraine, at the same time the largest in area and smallest in population. This region is known for the fiery character of its inhabitants - the Hutsuls, their authentic crafts, preserved traditions and way of life. For cyclists, this region is famous for the longest high-mountain route, which can take you almost to Romania.

Among the mountain attractions, the most famous is the former Polish observatory, located on Mount Pop Ivan (2020 meters). The Cheremosh River, glorified in songs and poems, is a year-round base for rafting and canoeing enthusiasts. Also, Verkhovyna in the Carpathians is extremely rich in mineral water sources.

For lovers mountain bike here developed and labeled in varying degrees of difficulty. The trails pass through authentic colorful villages of the region: Iltsy, Vipche, Krivorivnya, Zamagora, Bukovets, Verkhniy Yasenei. During your vacation, in addition to sports, you can go to one of the ten museums located here. Among them is a museum dedicated to the film “Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors”, a collection of authentic musical instruments Kumlik, museum of the Hutsul housewife "Khata - Grazhda".

Sights of the Verkhovinsky district.

The museum is located in the house where Franco stayed mainly during the summer months between 1901 and 1914. Lesya Ukrainka, Mikhail Kotsyubinsky, Ignat Khotkevich, Alexander Oles, Mikhail Grushevsky, Anton Krushelnytsky and other famous figures came here to see Ivan Franko. The museum also has an exhibition dedicated to the talented resident of the village of Krivorivnya, Paraska Plitse-Gorytsvit, who in her lifetime made hundreds of books with her own hands, which contain handwritten texts and illustrations on the life of the Hutsul people.
The Mykhailo Grushevsky Museum in Kryvorivna has been operating since 2003 as a separate department of the Ivano-Frankivsk regional local history museum. From 1907 to 1914, the Grushevsky family lived every summer in a wooden villa in Krivorivna (it did not survive; it was burned by troops in 1917). IN big hall visitors will be told about the documents, creative and life path of Mikhail Grushevsky. The museum has a room in which Grushevsky’s office was recreated.
Icon of the Hutsul Mother of God in the Church of the Nativity Holy Mother of God
Khata-Grazhda
Ivan Frank's Stone

The urban-type settlement of Verkhovyna is the administrative center of the district of the same name. Until 1962 - the village of Zhabye. Located on the banks of the Black Cheremosh River, at an altitude of 652 meters above sea level, at a distance of 130 kilometers from Ivano-Frankivsk. Verkhovyna was first mentioned in written sources in 1424. In ancient times, it consisted of two parts: Zhabie-Slupiyka and Zhabie-Iltsy, and had many villages: Red Meadow, Krivopole, Volova, Krivets. IN different times The villages of Bystrets, Dzembronya, Topilche, Zelenoe, Yavornik, and Burkut belonged to Zhabye.

Sights of Verkhovyna:

Krivorivnya.

Krivorivnya is a picturesque village in the Carpathians near Verkhovyna. From the end of the 19th century until the Second World War, it was known as a vacation spot for the intelligentsia and even the “summer capital” of Ukrainian culture. Here, such outstanding figures as Mikhail Grushevsky and Ivan Franko spent their summers on their own estates. Osip Makovey, Lesya Ukrainka, Vasyl Stefanik, and Olga Kobylyanskaya often came to visit them. Mikhail Kotsyubinsky, Konstantin Stanislavsky, Ignat Khotkevich lived here for several years in a row, Les Kurbas, Olga Knipper-Chekhova visited. Now Krivorivnya has the status of a “museum village”: there are four museums and a wooden church of the 18th century. Director Sergei Parajanov filmed his masterpiece “Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors” in the Krivorivnyanskaya hut-citizen.

Iltsy.

The village is located at the entrance to Verkhovyna, if you drive from the side, in a wide, flat valley between the mountains. Iltsy is an important turning point for fans active tourism- part of the tourist routes goes further through Verkhovyna and Bukovyna, and the other part turns south - to the village of Krasnik, where summer rafting camps are located, to Dzembronya, through which the path to Mount Pop Ivan, the Chornohirsky ridge and to Burkut passes.

Active leisure in the fresh air is becoming increasingly popular every year, especially in the Carpathians, where recreation remains attractive at every time of the year. Winter will give tourists an excellent opportunity to ski and snowboard, spring will delight with successful fishing, summer will attract horseback riding, green tourism, alloy mountain rivers, ATV rides, and autumn here is always generous with berries, mushrooms, and medicinal plants.

But in order to feel like a real mountaineer and fully enjoy the color of the area, you need to visit the very heart of the Carpathians, Verkhovyna.

It is in Verkhovyna that you can still hear the real Hutsul dialect and admire the authentic Hutsul region. At the entrance to the village you will see the inscription: “Zhabye is the capital of the Hutsul region.” This is what Verkhovyna was called until 1962. That’s what it was called during the visit of Ivan Franko, who loved to relax here, visiting almost every summer for almost two decades to improve his health. Also, Mikhail Kotsyubinsky, Vasyl Stefanik, Lesya Ukrainka, Olga Kobylyanskaya, Osip Makovey, Marko Cheremshina, Ignat Khotkevich came here several times. Visited Zhabiego and K. Stanislavsky together with the actors of the Moscow Art Theater.

Historical information of Verkhovyna

The year of the first written mention of Verkhovyna is 1424. Previously, Zhabye was divided into Zhabye-Iltsy and Zhabye-Slupeika. There were also many farms here: Volovaya, Krasny Lug, Krivopole, Vipche, Khodak, Zamagura. At different periods, such villages as Dzembronya, Bystrets, Topilche, Zelenoe, Burkut, Yavornik belonged to the administrative unit of Zhabye.

After the first partition of Poland between Russia, Prussia and Austria in 1772, the territories of modern Verkhovyna became part of Austria. Property stratification, national oppression, as well as significant exploitation of residents of mountain villages caused massive discontent among the peasants. The spontaneous protest of the population was reflected in such a form of struggle as the Oprishkov movement. Many highlanders then joined the detachments of Oleksa Dovbush, Ivan Pysklyvy, Grigor Pinta, Ivan Boychuk, Vasily Bayurak. Also, the first half of the 19th century. affected by the activities in Zhabiego and nearby villages of the rebels under the leadership of Miron Shtolyuk. The meeting was convened en masse - it was new form liberation movement in late XIX century.

When did the first one begin? World War, in Zhabiego and nearby villages, fighting continued between the Russians and the Austrians. Many Hutsuls fought in the Austrian army, especially many in the legion of Ukrainian Sich Riflemen.

April 1920 was marked by a peasant uprising, which was called the “Hutsul uprising.” It was suppressed by the Polish authorities, and a memorial sign was erected for the participants.

Verkhovyna was part of Poland from 1921 to 1939, and since 1962 Zhabie was renamed Verkhovyna.

Today Verkhovyna is the administrative center of the Verkhovyna district and the Verkhovyna district council. The settlement is located on the banks of the Black Cheremosh (the main water artery of the region, one of the main centers of water tourism in Ukraine), at an altitude of about 620 m above sea level. The distance to Ivano-Frankivsk is 150 km, to Vorokhtyanskaya railway station - 31 km.

The best places in Verkhovyna region

Verkhovyna region is rightfully considered the land of distinctive culture and high hospitality. In addition, this is an environmentally friendly area. However, Verkhovyna is generous not only with picturesque landscapes, but also with true Carpathian wonders.

The first miracle. Historical and Local Lore Museum of the Hutsul Region

It was first opened on February 18, 1939 in Zhabye-Iltsy, worked until 1939. Thanks to the support of Zhabievo elder, ethnographer Peter Shekerik-Donikov. It was opened for the second time in 2004, and in 2007 it became a branch of the regional museum of local lore. Today the museum invites tourists to explore two exhibition and three exhibition halls. The pride of the museum is a pair of dolls in detailed traditional bridal attire. These exhibits were donated by the Jasielski family, natives of Zhabiego, whom the difficult fate after the Second World War brought to London. The museum fund boasts a fragment of a meteorite found in the Bystrets River, church books of registration of newborns in the 18th-19th centuries, periodicals printed in the real Hutsul dialect, Bartka from the time of Dovbush... In total, the museum has collected more than a thousand exhibits and the fund is constantly replenished.

Note that the Hutsul Museum is interesting not only for its generous collection of finds, because it is not just another collection of objects cultural heritage. From the beginning of its opening (February 1939), scientists carried out repeated astronomical research on the basis of the museum, so it served as a research base for the Eastern Carpathians and the Hutsul region.

The second miracle. Museum of Hutsul Life, Ethnography and Musical Instruments of Roman Kumlyk

It is owned by the Kumlik family, because the founder of the museum died. The highlight of the museum is the large collection of Hutsul musical instruments, which you can not only admire, but also listen to their sound (dugout violins made from a single piece of wood and trembita, which is a symbol of the Hutsul region and all the Carpathians, attract special attention from tourists). In addition, any excursion here is a real show, where you can listen to many stories from the life of the Hutsuls, as well as authentic ditties and songs.

The third miracle. House-museum of the film “Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors”

The museum was opened in 2000 in the house where the director of the film “Shadows of Forgotten Ancestors” Sergei Parajanov lived and worked for seven months. Other members of the creative film team also visited here: artist Georgy Yakutovich, cameraman Yuri Ilyenko, actors Ivan Mikolaichuk and Larisa Kadochnikova. Museum visitors are invited to review the film and learn the history of its creation, and get acquainted with the museum exhibition, which consists of things related to the film. Google deserves special attention - the wedding cloth retinue in which Ivan Mikolaichuk's hero, Ivan, was dressed. The museum also contains authentic Hutsul clothing and household items.

The fourth miracle. House-citizen

Located in the village of Zarechye (Zhabyevsky Potok). It was here that the feature film “Annushka” was filmed. The city is considered a historical and architectural monument.

Fifth miracle. Written Stone

A true legend in stone. Located near the village of Bukovets. Is a cluster stone blocks 100 m long and about 10 m high. Its outline is somewhat similar to a cut pyramid. Petroglyphs carved on stone have still been preserved (the Hutsuls call them “revashs”) - various crosses, circles, rhombuses, figurines of people, which, according to B. Tomenchuk, an archaeologist and associate professor at the Carpathian University, can date back to the pagan era and the period of early Christianity. In addition to these mysterious messages from our ancestors, on the rock you can find the inscriptions “O. Kobylyanska 1899", "V. Stefanik 1899". Researchers claim that Ivan Franko, Osip Makovey, and Mikhail Kotsyubinsky also climbed here.

There is an assumption that this is ancient sanctuary, as indicated by nine rounded depressions in the stone at the top. Between the bowls are contained more than thirty symbolic rock paintings. Therefore, the rock is considered a cult place, and the writing on it confirms the legend about the source of powerful power that sleeps under the stones.

The sixth miracle. Lake Maricheyka

The high mountain lake of the Carpathians is located in the Montenegrin massif, within the Verkhovyna region, at an altitude of 1510 m above sea level. The length of this lake is 88 m and the width is 45 m. The shape of the lake is elongated, and the shores are low, covered with sedge, surrounded by spruce and pine forests.

There is a legend that this lake was formed from the tears of one shepherd, who bitterly missed his beloved Maricheyka, sobbing the whole lake. However, the water in the reservoir is cold, clean and fresh.
Usually a one-day hike or an overnight hike is organized to Maricheika.

Seventh miracle. “White Carpathian Elephant” - observatory on Mount Pop-Ivan

This is an old Polish astronomical and meteorological station on the mountain Pop Ivan (2028 m) built by the University of Warsaw. It consisted of 43 rooms and was opened in 1938. The observatory was considered an architectural miracle - it was built at an altitude of more than two kilometers, tens of kilometers away from the nearest populated areas, a real castle with two floors on the east side and five floors on the west. The building had a rotunda tower with a spiral staircase, a copper dome that opened automatically (this dome was delivered to the mountain in parts, each of them weighed more than 950 kg). The thickness of the walls of the basement floor exceeded a meter. The Poles called the structure “White Elephant” - in 30-degree frost it was completely covered with a layer of snow and ice, resembling a giant strange elephant.

Today, tourists can only admire the powerful walls of the observatory-fortress, although the remains of parquet flooring and heat-conducting pipes can still be seen. In 2011, a project for the restoration of the observatory was developed, and in 2012 the first repair work was carried out - the first floor windows were bricked up and about 200 square meters were covered. roofs.

Eighth miracle. Sanctuary of Dovbush's Comoros

As close as possible to the village of Verkhovina mountain range Tits. Around it are also placed such settlements like Krivorivnya, Verkhniy Yasenev and Krasnoilye. The most high peak this massif is located at an altitude of 1186 m above sea level and has a rounded top with small stone cliffs, for which it is popularly called the Dovbush Church. North-west of Sinitsa there is a somewhat flattened Mount Dovbushanka, 1100 meters above sea level. At the bottom of the Dovbushan Gorge there is the Dovbush Comoros cave, which once served as a pagan rock-cave sanctuary, and during the time of the rebels it was a winter refuge for Dovbush.

In 1958-59 Kyiv Film Studio named after. Alexandra Dovzhenko filmed the film “Olexa Dovbush” in the Verkhovyna region. One of the most important episodes of the transition-test through a narrow wooden masonry, overturned over an abyss between the rocks, was filmed precisely in the Dovbush Comoros.

Let us note that the city of Dovbushanka with the Dovbush Comoros is the most accessible and safest for tourists in the summer, because in winter the gorge and rocks are covered with snow and ice and are very dangerous for any tourist trips.

Do not forget also that in addition to the presence of interesting and colorful locations, Verkhovyna attracts tourists as ski resort, here on the slopes of Pushkar and Zapidki there are two ski lifts. The first of them is on the territory of the Verkhovyna health resort and has a length of 380 m. A narrow slope and a rope tow are great opportunity practice for beginner skiers. The second slope is 700 m long, has three tracks and is suitable for more experienced skiers.

In addition, a rafting camp and school are fully functioning in Verkhovyna. This allows everyone to go kayaking, rafting and kayaking.

As we see, the miracles of Verkhovyna region are a great opportunity to popularize leisure in the Carpathians and make a healthy lifestyle fashionable.

Seeing mountains not in pictures on the Internet, but with your own eyes is an incomparable delight!

Background

Mountains... They have some amazing magical power attract even through the photos that I loved to look at. And everyone knows that often what you secretly dream about will sooner or later come true. My dream came true - to see the mountains with my own eyes! Moreover, the dream became a reality so spontaneously that before I knew it, I was already sitting on the bus that was taking us to a meeting with the Carpathians.

Unforgettable journey

The delight began instantly, as soon as the mountains flashed outside the window and we entered the area in which we were to settle for 6 days - Verkhovyna. Cozy houses, great amount churches, beautiful green mountain slopes, an endless number of horses, cows and sheep standing near the road, and most importantly, the inhabitants of this area are Hutsuls, infinitely open and kind people. All this cannot leave a single person indifferent! On the very first day, having recovered a little after long journey, we had horse riding as planned. This is not the kind of riding that can usually be seen in all the parks of the city, when a tired horse carries you along the fence and back, and the entire ride takes about 10 minutes of your time. Horseback riding in the Carpathians is an endless pleasure, when there are such views around you that you can’t even believe in the reality of what is happening, when you are given the opportunity to control the horse yourself, and you even succeed a little! And of course, after the horses, one of the most memorable events of the trip was the climb to Hoverla. Hoverla is the most high mountain And highest point on the territory of Ukraine. Its height is 2061 meters above sea level. When you approach its foot, you raise your head and see in the distance a tiny pinnacle point where you have to climb with your own feet - this evokes a whole storm of emotions and thoughts inside, and one of them is the desire to turn back :) You can climb three routes: blue , green and red. As a rule, all tourists are taken along the blue route. This is exactly what we followed. Making your way past dense bushes and climbing over slippery stones that sway under your feet is still a pleasure. Therefore, if you like to just take a walk, admiring beautiful views- this idea of conquering the mountain is definitely not for you, it’s better to give it up immediately at the foot. But if you overcome yourself and start climbing, believe me, you won’t regret it, because what awaits you at the end of the climb will definitely be remembered forever! It is probably impossible to talk about the route and the emotions that were inside. Only if you have climbed it yourself will you understand what it means when you stand there at the top, when you have a medal in your hands for conquering your first mountain, and there are such views around you that will take your breath away! But, I think, for our entire group, the descent from Goverla was no less memorable. We were taken along a route that passed through a waterfall and which is not often taken by tourists. Have you ever crawled over huge smooth boulders, holding on to the branches of trees growing nearby, and under your feet there would be a mass of water rushing down and nothing else? Or have you ever tried to go down a path that is located at an angle of 60 degrees, and consists entirely of stones, which, with one wrong step, roll down and do not support you at all? Even now, typing this text, my palms become wet, and my heart begins to beat faster, but my brain still doesn’t believe that it really happened, and we were really able to get down from there! But it was definitely worth it, since it still gives such vivid memories and emotions.

Travel notes

Many people are accustomed to the words “Spaniards”, “French”, “Italians”. How many of you have heard at least something about the Hutsul region and the Hutsuls? I think no. Come to the Carpathians, to Verkhovyna, there you will hear these words more than once and discover this beautiful people for yourself;
On all my trips I never let go of my camera, but here for the first time I didn’t think about it or my phone. It's so wonderful and a nice place, that there I wanted to watch everything only with my eyes and remember the shots with my head, and not with a camera;
in Verkhovyna there is a place where your world will turn upside down: a spring where you can easily set the water on fire! If you want to find him, talk to local residents close to Villa la Brevis, they will know exactly where to go.

if you are thinking about where to stay in Verkhovyna, choose Villa la Brevis. This is not a hotel, not an inn, but a real huge house of one of the Verkhovyna families, which is on summer period receives guests. All 6 days I could not leave the feeling that I was at home with my parents, where it was always warm, cozy and tasty;
If you decide to climb Hoverla, be sure to rent ski poles, which are in abundance in the tents at its foot. With them, you will be much more confident in passing the steepest sections of the route, and when descending, you will be glad that you took them with you;
When bathing in vats with rose hips and herbs, never tear the rose hips for anything, otherwise you will remember it for a long time and itch from any touch to the skin, and when entering hydrogen sulfide vats, be sure to remove any chains, especially from ordinary jewelry, otherwise you risk being left without them;
If you go with a group and have a busy schedule of all sorts of activities and excursions, be sure to set aside a few hours to walk around the center of Verkhovyna on your own. Go to Central Market, talk to the locals or just sit on a bench watching how the Hutsuls live.

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