Aix en Provence artist. Aix-en-Provence is the cultural capital of Provence. What are functional cookies

French Riviera

The fourth day of the trip to Provence and the last part of my
Cote d'Azur : Nice, San Rafael, Saint Tropez, Bandol. Aix-en-Provence

I was traveling without a specific residential address. At first the end point of this day was assumed Grasse, but it turned out to be some nondescript small town. For me, the previous stop in Castellane was more interesting. So I pressed the gas and after about 40 minutes I was driving into Nice.

Or rather, I stopped at some parking lot and, using the mobile Internet, booked a hotel for one night in Nice, not far from the old year and the promenade on the Nice embankment: Hotel Victor Hugo Nice
The lower town of Nice is quite simple and divided into squares with one-way streets, so I found the hotel quickly.

What about parking? The owner of the hotel, which is a multi-room apartment on the ground floor of an old mansion, suggested that I need to find something on the street somewhere and pay for parking at the parking machine rate. However, when I tried to put a 2 euro coin found near the place where I threw the car, an elderly woman called out to me:
- Monsieur, you don’t have to pay!
- And why?
— Today is Sunday and parking on the street is free.

Thanking the woman, I threw my things into the room given to me: everything is fine, there is free Internet, a shower and the size of the room is not Parisian: I went outside and went for a walk around the city

The city has already dressed up for Christmas: a skating rink has been built in the center (this is at plus 20 during the day), a Christmas tree market has been opened, and children and non-children have been sent to spin on a frenzy wheel.

Beautiful illumination, beautiful streets, but somehow I didn’t like it here, even though I had dinner in a good restaurant - I didn’t feel comfortable in Nice. There was something about it from a train station: a lot of colorful people from different places, a lot of noise about nothing.

Therefore, after walking and photographing something in Vieux-Nice, which seemed interesting to me, periodically drinking a glass of wine, I quite accidentally wandered into the gateway behind a well-dressed couple walking in front of me and had a wonderful dinner in the restaurant La Maison de Marie.

And the next morning, after breakfast, I set off to the west, along the highway, along the coast. I deliberately didn’t go along the roads along the sea, because I didn’t want to waste time on traffic lights and traffic jams, thinking that the picture opening up to me would be the same: fences and gates of villas separating the shore, precious meters and acres of coastline from prying eyes.

San Rafael

The next point of my journey along the Cote d'Azur was Port De Frejus And Saint Raphael. Having quickly reached toll road Before leaving for San Rafael, I drove for some time along the stretch of coast between these towns, looking for something that would make me stop and look around. This something turned out to be an inflatable snowman on the San Rafael embankment. Leaving the car under a sign prohibiting parking, I walked with the camera in my hands along several streets, but there was no desire to remove the lens cap.
- No, this is not my place, Cote d'Azur.

I don't feel comfortable here somehow. Therefore, having reached Saint Tropez with a bottle of rose wine from the Bandol wineries, I did not find fish sellers at the fish market, which in St. Tropez was a room under the arches the size of an average glass store somewhere in Biryulyovo.

I was hoping for more, so after breathing tobacco smoke into the compressor supplying air to the diver who was working on something at the bottom of the marina, I decided to go to the origins - to Bandol

But there was desolation there too, unfortunately. In one of the cafes they gave me directions to one of the wineries located closer to the Verdon Canyon than to Bandol and they were not sure that it would be open.

Therefore, spitting on the Cote d'Azur with its dense buildings, I moved to Aix en Provence, since it was starting to get dark and I had already booked an overnight stay via the Internet again.

Aix-en-Provence

As soon as I, walking down the street and seeing shells in the boxes, pestered the seller with questions, and he directed me behind the wall to a restaurant, where I sat down and ordered champagne with two servings of oysters... I immediately fell in love with Aix-en-Provence.

Oysters

By the way, good restaurant- I can recommend Les Deux Garcons, but the champagne is there... I stared at the bill and asked, “Didn’t you pour me a crystal?” What are you talking about, of course not. But in all French restaurants champagne is expensive. Having chatted a little about this topic with the garçon, I came to the conclusion that the difference between Italy and France is that in the first (in Italy) sparkling wine costs a little more expensive than water without gas in France...
The oysters were served with oranges and there was bread and butter underneath. I’ve never eaten oysters with bread, but I tried it and liked it: gillardeau number 3 were very tender

Strange, but it was Monday. I understand the flower market, but the cheese and seafood stalls did not fit into the schedule of markets in Provence that I studied before the trip.
I wish I could live like this: it’s fresh, you can bargain, they let you try it and can cook it right away: for example, fry fish without cutting it up, and you can take some greens from your neighbor... it’s a pity they don’t bottle the wine.

However, the pictures in supermarkets are no worse. I'm sorry, but I deleted these photos from my phone, so I'm posting them in full size.
But this has some advantage, since you can immediately see the prices of champagne in the store Carrefour

Fifth and sixth days of travel.

Arles, Camargue park

As a base, I chose a good motel 12 km from Arles: Hôtel et Résidence de la Transhumance and I can confidently recommend this place: quiet, bedroom and large living room made like a studio, fully equipped kitchen, internet, breakfast (not included in the price, but good ), 100 meters away there is a supermarket with some crazy prices for wine: I walked down the aisle several times and looked for wine that cost more than 5 euros per bottle.

Did not have. In the end, I took Montepulciano d’Abruzzo for 1.79 euros a bottle. Holy shit, people from Italy wrote to me on Facebook that this wine is more expensive on sale.

Because of this, I stopped going to restaurants and switched to grazing, that is, I stocked up on fresh seafood and wine in the supermarket and clowned around by posting photos on Facebook.

As for Arles, it is a small, pretty town with an arena where bullfighting is held in French, that is, the bulls are not killed, but only affectionately stroked on the head.
Probably everything about Arles.

Below Arles there are plains with water meadows and swamps. There are white horses grazing on the free grass. They say that this is the most ancient breed of horses and their ancestors are unicorns. There is something ancient about them: they are inactive and usually stand staring at one point, as if they had smoked something.

Several resort towns of these places Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer(it’s enough to enter French names with hyphens into the navigator. Literally, Saints-Virgin-Mary-on-the-Sea) and a village with a large marina Le Grau-du-Roi(let's call it "the king's degree" or the king under the degree) were empty at this time. Muddy waves crashed against brown ones sandy shores and only a couple of surfers in wetsuits tried to do stand-up.

The next point of my program in this park was a visit to lakes with a large colony of flamingos. If you drive from Saint Mary's to Morea, then you need to keep to the right and as a result the narrow asphalt road will go close to the sea, so that even the waves can overwhelm it, but this does not happen - it’s shallow. I met several parked jeeps with boats on trailers. But I don’t understand how you can fish here.

They also mine in these places salt. I went to look at this - the process is simple, sea water settles in wide and shallow reservoirs, where the concentration of salt increases through the evaporation of fresh water.

This concentrate is then fed by pumps, which quickly fail due to corrosion, onto the existing pile of salt on a dry surface through sprinklers. At the same time, some more of the water evaporates.

Conclusion

I don’t remember how much this trip cost me. But I don't think it's crazy much. Although I didn’t deny myself anything. In addition, the operating hours of restaurants in Provence partially saved my budget: for lunch I had to buy at Lidl I ate wine and champagne, seafood prepared there and that’s minus 40-50 euros every day.

France is not that pricey. Moscow is more expensive (I went to the Rybny Bazaar restaurant for dinner here and paid 250 euros, taking into account the fact that I had a 10% discount).

Therefore, feel free to go to Provence and enjoy its atmosphere and views. It’s not in vain that famous artists of the world spent their creative time here. True, I didn’t particularly like the food there... it was a bit greasy for me.

43.676675 4.627502

Attractions

Aix-en-Provence is called the “city of a thousand fountains”. Particularly interesting are the Great Fountain on the Rotunda (1860) in the city center, the fountain connected to the hot spring (1734), the Fountain of the Four Dauphins (1667) and the Fountain of Good King René, built in the 19th century. Even if you decide to see all the sights, you will miss many of them during a tour of the ancient center of this entertaining city.

Cours Mirabeau is a wide avenue dividing the city into old and new, to the north of it there is a labyrinth of ancient streets and ancient buildings. This is the direction we should go. The site of a Roman settlement is Bourg Saint Sauveur, which stretches from the Cathedral of Our Savior to the Italian-style town hall in the picturesque City Hall Square. The cathedral "summarizes" the history of Aix in one single building. Erected in the 5th century. on a Roman foundation, this magnificent building was completed over many centuries in three different styles - Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque, and only in the 18th century the work was stopped. The Archbishop's Palace dates back to the 6th-17th centuries, and now houses the Tapestry Museum and a cultural center.

Other attractions include clock tower, a former 16th-century bell tower built on a Roman foundation: high above the street you can see the astronomical clock with four wooden statues, as well as the Fountain of the Four Seasons, where there is a Roman column. The square and the Hotel d'Alberta were built by a distinguished family, natives of Aix, in the 18th century and are truly enchanting (the fountain was erected later).

Best time to visit

In June - for the free street music festival or in July for the city's lyrical arts festival - the weather is dry and hot, but the breeze brings a coolness.

What to see

In the cathedral there is a magnificent triptych “The Burning Bush”, painted around 1476 for King René. Admire the wooden carvings. The Church of St. Mary Magdalene is a former 13th-century monastery, rebuilt around 1700. It is now a museum housing works by local artists.
Simple and yet very beautiful fountain XV century Espeluk, moved to the square near the Archbishop's Palace in 1756
Aix's famous patisserie "De Garçon" was built in 1792 - ask to see Ernest Hemingway or Paul Cézanne's table.

The baths at the Aix hot springs were built in 1705, but here you can also see the ruins of original Roman baths.

Beaches Cote d'Azur, ski resorts, many attractions, aromatic wine and excellent cuisine. This is just a small list of what awaits a tourist who gets off the plane landing at a French airport.

Introductory information about France

France is made up of many regions, each of which has its own unique history, set of attractions and unique dishes. local cuisine. You can relax here both in winter and summer. In the hot season, tourists are welcomed by the Cote d'Azur, and in frosty weather resorts invite French Alps. Conventionally, France can be divided into two zones – excursion and resort:

The first includes almost the entire Ile-de-France region, the well-known Loire Valley, as well as many cities, among which Paris, Strasbourg, Le Havre, Orleans, Rouen and dozens of others stand out.
Leadership among beach resorts occupies the Cote d'Azur, followed by the island of Corsica and atlantic coast. In winter they mainly go to the Three Valleys and Portes du Soleil.

Aix en Provence

If you look at climate map cities of France, you can see that the climate is mostly temperate-marine. In the eastern regions it gives way to continental, and on the coast Mediterranean Sea– subtropical. Therefore, the weather varies in the regions - it is better to go to Paris in May or October, and June or September is suitable for visiting the French Riviera.

You can vacation in Corsica from May to October, but in August it will be quite hot. People ski in Alpine resorts starting in November, but the most snow here is in February.

Note! The ideal time for a sightseeing tour of the cities of France is the high season, when all tourists travel to the Cote d'Azur. Yes, on coastal resorts there’s not a lot of crowds, but provincial hotels are almost empty, so getting a room will be very easy

By the way, about prices in French cities - the algorithm for their formation defies any logic. And this applies to both real estate and products. Having bought a loaf of bread in one store and going to another one across the street, you can see a completely different price. There is no use in bargaining; this is only possible in the market. But this article will examine the nuances of recreation not throughout the country, but only in one city called Aix-en-Provence (France).

Region Ile-de-France

A few words about hotels in Provence

This city is also simply called Aix (France). Provence is a popular region among tourists, so there are quite a lot of hotels here, but only a few are particularly popular:

The true spirit of Provence can be felt at Villa Gallici. There is a real homely feeling here, the service is at the highest level, and the dishes prepared by the chef are beyond all praise. Despite the fact that the hotel is located in the city center, there is no noise or bustle of the city. The cheapest room as of September 2018 costs 300 euros* per night.
The best advertisement for Le Pigonnet is its guests. IN different time P. Picasso, L. Kravitz, K. Eastwood and Catherine Deneuve stayed here. There is everything for have a great holiday, and the highlight is the huge park. The minimum room price is 150 euros.
The art hotel Aparthotel Adagio Aix-en-Provence Center is not as luxurious as the five-star hotels presented above, but it fully deserves its 4 stars. The room here is a fully equipped apartment with a bathroom and a kitchen where you can prepare meals. In the morning, the guest will be offered breakfast. The cost of the apartment is 100 euros.

Note! Another popular art hotel in Aix-en-Provence is the Appart’hotel Odalys Atrium. The cost for one night is 80 euros.

Other worthy hotels in Provence include the five-star Renaissance Aix-en-Provence and four-star Les Lodges Sainte-Victoire and Hôtel de Gantès.

Five-star Renaissance Aix-en-Provence

Tourist route around the city of Aix-en-Provence

Tourists visiting Aix-en-Provence (France) will be offered several route options for an introductory tour.

A number of historical routes.
A route related to the life and work of Paul Cézanne and his family.
Visit to the mansion, workshop and places where Cezanne painted.
Tour of the suburbs of Aix-en-Provence.

Note! The first three routes of the city of Aix-en-Provence can be either on foot or by transport. The latter is carried out only by car.

Aix-en-Provence attractions worth visiting

You should start your walk around Provence from the so-called Old Town, located north of the main square, and Mirabeau Boulevard. Here stands the Church of Sainte-Madeleine, which was painted by Van Lo and Rubens, as well as the preserved façade of the medieval town hall and the Cathedral of Saint Savior, which was painted by Nicolas Froment himself in the 15th century.

Continuing your journey, you should look into the archives bishop's palace Ancier-Archeves, home to the Beauvier Tapestry Museum and the Old Town Museum.

Note! Saint-Jean-de-Malte is the first church in Provence built in the Gothic style. Previously it belonged to the Order of the Hospitallers.

After seeing the sights of the Old Town, you can return to Mirabeau Boulevard, where there is also a lot of interesting things. For example, the creations of the sculptor Pierre-Jean David D’Angers, who lived in the 19th century. Its statue of King René the Good is a real decoration of the square. An equally interesting creation is the Rotunda fountain.

To the south of the boulevard is the Mazaran quarter, where four centuries ago there were elite houses of aristocrats. Going to Place Saint-Jean-de-Malte, you can get to the Granet Museum, where among the many exhibits you can find objects from the city of Entremont - the capital of the Ligurians and paintings by Marius Granet, after whom the museum is named.

Cultural center La Cité du livre

In Cézanne's former workshop there is an Atelier where you can see the tools the master used, as well as unfinished canvases. But the most impressive thing is the atmosphere in the room: it seems that the artist himself will come in now and continue working on his next masterpiece.

Upon completion of the inspection of the workshop, you should look at la Place d’Albertas, after which you can safely go to the unique architectural museum complex, Vasarely Foundation. The exhibition, assembled by Victor Vasarely, included his own works, thanks to which a new architectural and graphic style was developed.

All lovers of contemporary art should visit the cultural center La Cité du livre of Provence - this is a media complex located in an abandoned but reconstructed match factory. Fans of modern cinema and literature from all over France flock here to discuss new works. In addition, various exhibitions, performances, film screenings, and lectures are held here. In mid-autumn, the traditional festival la Fête du livre is held. But this is not the end of a walk through the sights and interesting places of Aix-en-Provence, because the outskirts of the city remained unexplored, which will be discussed below.

Other places in Aix-en-Provence worth mentioning

There are no less attractions in the vicinity of Aix-en-Provence (France). Among the main ones, the following should be mentioned:

Mount Saint-Victoire, which Cézanne called his muse.
14th century castle in Vauvenargues, where Pablo Picasso's grave is located.
The 12th century Torone Monastery is located near the city of Kars.
Entrecasteaux is a village that seems to have come out of the Middle Ages. The whole of it is a monument to the historical and architectural landscape of the 11th century.

Those wishing to try black truffles should visit the town of Op, and the Var department is where fans of eco-tourism are welcome. In a word, Provence has entertainment for every taste, so traveling through its lands is guaranteed to bring a lot of pleasure and unforgettable impressions.

*Prices are current as of October 2018.

Aix-en-Provence, often referred to simply as Aix by locals, is one of the most attractive destinations in the south of France.

Busier than Marseille, cheaper than Paris and with 300 days of sunshine a year, it's the perfect destination for romantic breaks and summer holidays. The city is just a few minutes' drive from the beaches of the Cote d'Azur and ski slopes, in the heart of Provence, where travelers are surrounded by fragrant lavender and sunflower fields and ancient olive groves. It is also the birthplace of the artist Cezanne; Aix-en-Provence has enough cultural and historical attractions to satisfy the most insatiable enthusiasts.

Add

× Before adding an information block, please read the advertisement on the site.

Discover the winding medieval streets of the historic centre, explore the Roman ruins in nearby Arles, or simply watch life go by while sipping a coffee in a cozy café. Aix-en-Provence is good for a holiday at any time of the year, although most people prefer to visit the city during the summer peak season from May to September, when the famous flowers bloom lavender fields, and the sun gives the pale stone buildings a soft golden glow.

However, it is worth thinking about spring break in Aix, when the city blooms with hundreds of colors, or about an autumn trip, when the weather is not so hot. Ex is also popular place winter holidays thanks to proximity to locals ski resorts and seasonal events such as the Christmas market.

How to get there

The nearest airport is in Marseille, 20 km from Aix-en-Provence. A bus leaves from the airport every half hour to the city; the journey takes about 30 minutes and costs 7 euros. A taxi can be found outside the terminal building and costs around 70 euros. The fast TGV trains are ideal for those who prefer to enjoy scenic views.

A one-way trip from Paris takes less than three hours and a ticket costs 25 euros. Trains stop at Aix-en-Provence station, which is located near the city. Buses run regularly from the railway station. There are buses from most major French cities to Marseille. A bus runs to Aix-en-Provence from Marseille Saint-Charles station; the journey takes 30 minutes and costs 8 euros.

Attractions

Experience effortless tranquility Southern France, visiting the Mazarin quarter. Just south of crowded Mirabeau is a grid of streets lined with old "hôtels particuliers" that were originally built to house the wealthy merchants and nobles of Provence. The historic town is home to boutique hotels and shops selling local handicrafts, as well as several charming cafes. This is a dynamic area of the city with beautiful architecture and aesthetic appeal.

The long, tree-lined Avenue Mirabeau marks the central point of commerce and entertainment in Aix-en-Provence, with a variety of restaurants, bars and tourist shops catering to an enthusiastic consumer. Various markets and events are held here on different days, as locals love to meet old friends and shop here. In the middle of Cours Mirabeau is the ancient Fontaine du Roy René, in memory of René of Anjou, who died in the 15th century - a man holding a scepter in one hand and a bushel of local grapes in the other. While in Paris, you should definitely visit Notre Dame Cathedral. But when in Aix-en-Provence, don't miss the Cathedral of Saint Savior. This Roman Catholic cathedral is a popular tourist attraction and a national monument in France. The building incorporates Romanesque, Gothic and Neo-Gothic elements, as it was subject to repeated attempts at reconstruction from the 12th to the 19th centuries. During these days, visitors can enjoy precious works of religious art about the life of Christ from Nicolas Froment, Louis Finson and Jean Daret. Be sure to check the cathedral's program before visiting, as you may be lucky enough to enjoy an evening organ concert or Christmas choir rehearsal.

The Musée Granet in the center of Aix-en-Provence has many exhibits of painting, sculpture and archaeology. When the museum was built, it belonged to the Church of Saint-Jean de Maltais, located next door. Only in the last few decades has the building been restored and opened to the public as art Gallery. Today you can see here works by such famous artists as Renoir, Ingres, Cezanne and even Van Gogh.

Indulge in the provincial cuisine and countryside of Aix-en-Provence, then enjoy the excellent cultural offerings on the outskirts of the city. The Vasarely Foundation realizes the artistic concepts of Victor Vasarely, whose colossal paintings - modern masterpieces - use abstract forms and bold colors, and thus attract the attention of the world. Vasarely hoped to alleviate the world's problems with squares and triangles, and indeed many of his optical illusion paintings leave the viewer spellbound for a long time.

Currency

Euro The winding streets of the Old Town are filled with boutiques for clothing, books, arts and crafts and jewelry. If you are looking for global brands, visit Les Allées Provençales or the big shopping mall Carrefour, which sells everything from fashion accessories to electronics.

Food

Aix-en-Provence has an incredible number of restaurants compared to its small in size. Most of the establishments are collected in a small area in the Old Town, between Place Carder and the Rotunda (Cours Mirabeau). Restaurants and bars on Cours Mirabeau tend to be more expensive, although while some may be considered tourist traps, others are some of the best places to eat in the city. L'Authentique - perfect place for burgers in the area. You can buy the most delicious and high-quality French bread at Le farinomanFou or Emile Bec.

You can also try calissons, a regional specialty consisting of a smooth, pale yellow, smooth paste of candied fruits, most commonly melon and oranges, and ground almonds with a thin layer of royal icing. Chez Charlotte is a very good restaurant, popular with locals. It offers simple and inexpensive French cuisine in a friendly atmosphere. If you really want to eat like local and save a few euros, it is better to choose small restaurants that have doner kebabs on their menu. For a few euros you get a "sandwich" wrapped in a gallet, or round bread, which includes lettuce, tomatoes, onions, meat, fries and be sure to ask for Blanche sauce. It's very tasty and cheap.

Many restaurants make this dish differently. La Maison des Fondues offers a wide selection of delicious fondues. Le Clos de la Violette is located in the northern part of the city, near the excellent Hotel Villa Gallici. This restaurant has a Michelin star. The menu changes seasonally.

Where to stay

Popular areas in Aix-en-Provence Old city- the center of Aix-en-Provence with some of the city's most impressive buildings. The most popular local attractions are the 17th-century town hall and St. Saviour's Cathedral, where you can see Nicolas Froment's Burning Bush Triptych.

The Villeneuve district is a new area of the city east of the Palace of Justice, an upscale residential area of stylish townhouses. Cours Mirabeau is one of the busiest and most popular areas of the city. Its centerpiece is an 18th-century tree-lined avenue where you can see many of the city's famous fountains and stately mansions.

Aix-en-Provence is a university town, so you will find many inexpensive hotels, as well as luxury and upscale hotels. Nice hotels in the mid-price category - Hotel ibis Aix-en-Provence, Hôtel Aquabella and Hôtel Best Western Le Galice. Luxury hotels such as La Villa Gallici or Hôtel Aix-en-Provence - Hôtel de Gantès are ideal for trips into the city for special occasions.

Precautionary measures

The ex - safe city to visit, but as with all French cities, tourists to Aix should be aware of the risk of falling victim to pickpockets and thieves. Do not leave valuables in plain sight in parked cars. Use extra caution at night and use a taxi if you are going to remote areas late at night. Avoid visiting public parks after dark.

French city of Aix-en-Provence (Provence region)

Don't be nearby, just 25 kilometers away, huge Marseille, french city Aix-en-Provence would dominate the whole of Central Provence.

Historically, culturally and socially, the two cities are very different from each other, and usually those who love one hate the other. The city of Aix-en-Provence is smugly conservative and stunningly beautiful.

The wealthy part of its population are landowners and people of liberal professions. The youth of Aix dress impeccably. Hundreds of students from other countries, in particular Americans, come to study in the city, and the city's residents are distinguished by snobbery of an almost Parisian level.

From the 12th century until the revolution, Aix-en-Provence was the capital of Provence. At a time when Provence was an independent county, its beloved ruler, the “good” King René of Anjou (1409-1480), maintained a brilliant court, famous for its popular festivals and patronage of the arts.

René was a typical Renaissance man, he spoke many languages (including Greek and Hebrew), was a scientist, poet and economist. It was he who began to grow Muscat grapes in Provence. Today in the city there is a stone statue of him, made in the style of illustrations from medieval books. Holding a bunch of grapes in his left hand, he looks along the majestic Boulevard Mirabeau, created in the 17th century.

Arrival, city information and accommodation in Aix-en-Provence

The main point of arrival in the city is the Place General de Gaulle (place General-de-Gaulle), or La Rotonda, with several fountains, which ends in the west the main artery of Aix: the boulevard Mirabeau (cours Mirabeau), laid out on the site of the old fortifications on its southern side.

The train station is on Rue Gustavo-Desplace at the end of Avenue Vicyor-Hugo, leading south from Place General de Gaulle, and the bus station is on Avenue de l'Europe at the end of Avenue de l'Europe ). New station high speed trains(TGV) is located 10 kilometers southwest of Aix and is connected regular flights shuttle buses to the bus station (every 30 minutes: daily 4.45-22.30, 3.70 €).

Driving into Aix-en-Provence, it's easy to get lost. It is best to follow the gare signs to the station, and after passing the station, follow the avenue des Belges, which will lead to the tourist office in the city center (2 place General-de-Gaulle) between the avenues Belge and Victor Hugo, where there is a parking lot on the ring road surrounding the Old Town. From mid-June to the end of July (festival time) the chances of finding a free room in hotel very small if you don't booked him, at least two months before the actual arrival. At other times there are much more opportunities.

Aix-en-Provence Hotels

1). Hotel Des Arts– A very friendly, although a little noisy, hotel with the cheapest rooms you can find in the center. Advance booking no, so come early. Hotel address: 69 bd Carnot;

2). Hotel Le Caravella– More expensive rooms face the courtyard gardens. Hotel address: 29 bd Roi-Rene;

3). Hotel Cardinal– Clean, calm and welcoming hotel, but expensive. Hotel address: 22-24 rue Cardinale;

4). Hotel De France– In the very center and with very comfortable rooms. Hotel address: 63 rue Espriat;

5). Hotel Le Manoir– A very elegant and comfortable old building with a covered gallery from the 14th century. Hotel address: 8 rue d'Entrecasteaux;

6). Number One Hotel– Small family hotel about a kilometer from the city center. One of the most inexpensive hotels in all of Aix-en-Provence. Hotel address: 10 cours des Minimes;

7). Hotel Paul – Inexpensive for Aix and with a garden. The rooms have a shower and telephone. There are three and four-bed rooms. Hotel address: 10 avenue Pasteur;

8). Hotel Des Quatre-Dauphins– Old world charm in the Mazarin quarter. Hotel address: 54 rue Roux-Alpheran;

9). Hotel St-Christophe– Hotel with high level services close to both train stations and Boulevard Mirabeau. Hotel address: 2 avenue Victor-Hugo.

Hostels and campsites in Aix-en-Provence

1). Airotel Camping Chanteclere– Three kilometers from the center. Excellent amenities. Open: all year. Camping address: Rte de Nice, Val St-Andre, buses no. 3 or 10, same prices;

2). Camping Arc-en-Ciel– Also three kilometers from the city center to the southeast. Not a very cheap campsite, but has very good facilities. Closed: October-March. Camping address: Rte de Nice, Pont de Trois Sautets, bus number 3;

3). Crous– (Centre Regional des Oeuvres Universitaires et Scolaires / Regional Center for Students and Schoolchildren’s Creativity). This student organization can sometimes find cheap rooms on campus during July and August. Bus number 5 direction “Belle-Ormeaux”, stop “Pierre-Puget”. Address wtynhf: Cite Universitaire des Gazellez, 38 avenue Jules-Ferry;

4). Hostel network Holiday Inn(Hi)– Located 2 kilometers west of the city center and has good bedrooms (nightly accommodation €17). There are no kitchens, but there is a TV lounge, a bar, a laundry room, a storage room and several double rooms. Closed: Christmas-February. Hostel address: 3 avenue Marcel-Pagnol. Bus number 4 direction "Ozhas-de-Buffan", stop "Vasarely".

Sights of Aix-en-Provence

The whole of old Aix (old city Aix), clearly delineated by a ring of boulevards, including the majestic Boulevard Mirabeau, is one large monument, much more significant than any separate building or a museum in it. There are so many lively streets, tempting restaurants, cafes and shops and the best markets in Provence, that you can wander around it for many days, without having either a specific route or a specific goal. As a preliminary acquaintance with the life of Aix, it is absolutely necessary to take a walk along the Boulevard Mirabeau with stops at cafes.

Old Ex

To explore the tangle of small streets and narrow roads that make up the heart of Aix, head north from the tree-lined Boulevard Mirabeau anywhere within the ring of wide streets called avenue, cours or boulevard (although "boulevard" may not be a boulevard). . The layout of Old Aix makes it difficult to navigate, but this does not matter when every 50 meters there are squares with fountains where you can relax, and all around there is a continuous architectural feast of the 16th-17th centuries.

On Saturdays and, to a lesser extent, on Tuesdays and Thursdays, the center is filled with markets: fruits and vegetables on Place Richelme, fish on the street Marseille, flowers on the Hôtel de Ville square, clothes on the streets of Peyrecs, Rifle-Rafle, Bouteilles, Chaudronniers and Monclar, swap meet on Place de Verun and provisions on Place des Precheurs and Place de la Madelein.

The Church of the Madeleine features paintings by Rubens and Vanloo (who was born in Aix in 1684) and a medieval triptych of the Annunciation. In Place Richelme, above the architrave of the former grain exchange, which today houses the post office, hangs the graceful, albeit rather massive, foot of the goddess Cybele, flirting with Rhone (Rhône is masculine in French). Just to the north rises the town hall of classical proportions with wrought iron lace above the entrance.

From Place de Hotel-de-Ville, rue Gaston-de-Saporta will lead you to the cathedral Cathedral of the Holy Savior(Cathedrale Saint-Sauveur), a conglomerate of buildings from the 15th and 16th centuries, full of treasures of medieval art. The best of them is the triptych “The Burning Bush,” which was commissioned by King Rene in 1475. The sacristan regularly opens its side panels, revealing the Virgin Mary and Child in a burning bush to the view of the audience.

Next to the cathedral on the Place de la Resistance stands the former episcopal palace (Ancien Archeveche), which today houses Tapestry Museum(Musee des Tapisseries) - an excellent collection, including a modern section in which the concept of "tapestry" is expanded to also include products made from rope, raffia or feathers. The Old Aix Museum (Musee du Vieil Aix; 17 rue Gaston-de-Saporta), which displays sets of iconic puppets and a large collection of santons (santons - Provençal Christmas figurines), is also worth visiting.

Mazarin Quarter

Aix's other important museums are located in the quartier Mazarin, south of the boulevard Mirabeau. The most interesting of them, Granet Museum(Musee Granet; place St-Jean-de-Malte), located on Place Saint-Jean-de-Malte (St. John of Malta). It displays works of art and archaeological finds, in particular from Oppidum d'Entremont, a Celtic-Ligurian settlement 3 kilometers north of Aix.

It flourished for about 100 years, until in 124 BC it was defeated by the Romans, who founded the city of Aquae Sextae, the future Aix-en-Provence. The collection of paintings in the museum is quite varied - works by Italians, Dutch, French, mainly from the 17th to 19th centuries, not very well hung and poorly lit.

A number of French paintings from the 18th and early 19th centuries, including Ingres' repulsive Jupiter and Thetis, are mostly terrible, although Ingres's portrait of Granet is worthy of attention. Finally, here you can see the works of Aix's most famous artist, Paul Cézanne, who studied on the ground floor of this building, which was then an art school. The museum has two of his student works and a number of small paintings, including Bathsheba and Portrait of a Lady.

Outside the center

Cézanne worked in many studios in and around Aix, but finally in 1902 he acquired a house built specifically as a studio and overlooking Aix to the north. Today it is Atelier Cezanne (9 avenue Paul-Cesanne). It was here that he wrote some of his best work. Everything here remains the same as it was in 1906, when he died: a coat, a hat, a glass and an easel, objects that he loved to depict, his pipe and several letters and drawings... The atmosphere in which he worked has been preserved here.

Center for public cultural life The city is the City of Books (Cite du livre; 8-10 rue des Allumettes), which occupies the building of a former match factory (not far from the tourist office), the entrance to which is decorated in the form of rows of giant books, as if standing on a shelf. It houses libraries, a cinema hall, a theater hall, a video library of lyrical arts (where almost all French opera performances are presented) and various exhibitions. Away from the sometimes tiresome grandeur of Aix in the 17th century, you can get a completely different visual and abstract experience by visiting the Vasarely Foundation (Fondation asarely; avenue Marcel-Pagnol, Jas-de-Bouffan, 4 kilometers west of the city).

Here, in countless display cases, images relating to all the themes of the work of the architect and artist Vasarely are presented, including his designs for residential buildings. However, you will get the most direct impression of the work of this extraordinary man in the seven hexagonal rooms on the ground floor, each of which presents six large projects. Finally, 3 kilometers north of the city is the Oppidum d'Entremont - excavations of a Gallic settlement that preceded the founding of the city and arose more than 200 years before the Roman conquest. There are remains of impressively located fortifications, as well as residential and shopping districts cities.

Where to eat and drink, things to do in Aix-en-Provence

Ex is literally “stuffed” restaurants of all price points and ethnicities. Place des Cardeurs, northwest of Place de Hotel de Ville, is lined with tables from restaurants, brasserie and cafe, and Rue Verrerie, south of Place Hôtel de Ville and Place Ramus, is home to many Indian, Chinese and North African restaurants. For people on a modest budget, Tanneurs Street is good. The café-brasserie on Boulevard Mirabeau is worth a visit, including inexpensive eateries. There you can also find sellers of very tasty fresh fruit juices.

Cafes and restaurants in Aix-en-Provence

1). Restaurant L'Amphitryon– Eclectic cuisine based on fresh market ingredients. Meals are served on the flower-lined terrace in the Old Town. A wonderful and not very expensive restaurant. Set of dishes from 26 €. Closed: Sundays and Mondays, as well as in the second half of August. Restaurant address: 2-4 rue Paul Doumer;

2). Restaurant De l`Archeveche– During the day, good pasta dishes and salads are served for less than 10 €. Restaurant address: Place des Martyrs-de-la-Resistance;

3). Restaurant Le Basilic Gourmand– Classic Provençal food. A3 la carte from 14 €. Live music. Closed: Sundays and Mondays. Restaurant address: 6 rue du Griffon;

4). Restaurant Le Bistrot Latin– The best dishes are profiteroles with snails in olive and honey sauce and rabbit in garlic sauce. Lunch menu 15.00 €, evening set of dishes from 21 €. Closed: Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays, and for lunch out of season. Restaurant address: 18 rue Couronne;

5). Cay Tam Restaurant– Best East Asian cuisine in Aix. The menu is based on Vietnamese dishes. Set of dishes from 15.50 €. Closed: Mondays and Tuesdays, and for lunch on Wednesdays and Fridays. Restaurant address: 29 rue Verrerie;

6). Restaurant Le Chimere– A new twist on French standards and possibly the only place in town that serves kangaroo. Set of dishes about 26.50 €. Closed: Sundays. Restaurant address: 15 rue Brueys;

7). Restaurant Le Clos de la Violette– The most famous restaurant in Aix, the names of the dishes may sound a little scary, for example stuffed lamb hooves, but in fact these dishes are true gastronomic masterpieces. Desserts are more openly appealing: clafoutis (plum pie), pistachios with peach sauce and tartines with melted chocolate. Lunch menu 54 €, other sets of dishes from 107 €, a la carte from 75 €. Closed: Mondays and Wednesdays for lunch, and for two weeks in mid-August. Restaurant address: 10 avenue de la Violette;

8). Cafe Les Deux Garcons– Once a favorite place of Albert Camus, decorated in the style of decadence of the 1900s and still attracting a colorful society of intellectuals. Good brasserie type food, but not cheap (from 27.80 €). Open: daily until midnight. Cafe address: 53 cours Mirabeau;

9). Cafe L'Hacienda– Outdoor seating and inexpensive lunch menu (9 €), including wine. Closed: Sundays. Cafe address: Corner of rue Merindol and place Cardeur;

10). Cafe Le Jasmin– Delicious and distinctive Persian dishes for about 16.50 €. As for desserts, you should try the traditional Iranian choleh zard - a rice dish with saffron, spices and nuts. Closed: Sundays. Cafe address: 6 rue de la Fonderie;

11). Cafe Kheops – Egyptian cuisine, including falafel, stuffed pigeon and lush dairy desserts. Set of dishes 10 €. Closed: Wednesdays for lunch. Cafe address: 28 rue de la Verrerie;

12). Pizza Chez Jo/Bar des Augustins– Thanks to pizza and traditional daily specials, it’s usually crowded. From 12 €. Closed: Sundays. Restaurant address: Place des Augustins;

13). Le Platanos establishment– A very cheap and popular Greek place with a lunch menu for 10 €. Closed: Sundays and Mondays. Address of the establishment: 13 rue Rifle-Rafle.

Nightlife and festivals in Aix-en-Provence

The best jazz clubs are Hot Brass (chemin de la Plaine-des-Verguetiers, rte d'eguilles-Celony) and Le Scat (11 rue de la Verrerie) with jazz, rock and funk music. Disco mainstream - in Le Richelme (24 rue de la Verrerie). Pubs with live music – Le Manoir (25 rue de la Verrerie), Pago (38 rue de la Verrerie), Pub Solferino (place d’Armenie) and Le Festival (67 bis rue Espariat).

During the annual festivals "Aix en Music" (rock, jazz, experimental and classical music; June) and the International Festival of Lyric Arts (Festival International d'Art Lyrique; opera and concerts) classical music; last two weeks of July) alternative scenes - street theatres, rock concerts and impromptu gatherings - turn the whole of Old Ax into one continuous party.

Ticket prices for festival events range from 12 to 185 euros. You can purchase tickets and programs from the Official Festival Committee (Comite Officiel des Fetes; Espace Forbin, 3 place John-Rewald) near Boulevard Gambetta. There you can also find out details about International festival dance (two weeks in mid-July).

It might be useful to read: