Route thirty hike in four days. The legendary thirty. Features of the route

Planning big walking trip this year, we suddenly turned to the classics of Soviet tourism (wherever the Internet takes a person!) and chose... Adygea. Famous route No. 30: through the Caucasus Mountains to the Black Sea. Why not? What do we even know about Adygea? Off the top of my head I remember something about goats and cheese, and (if you’re lucky) about Maikop. But if you dig deeper... The Lago-Naki plateau, the Oshten, Fisht and Pshekha-Su mountains sound much more tempting! I have already published mine, and then a detailed story and photo report.

What is remarkable about the “thirty”:

  • A popular, well-trodden route from Soviet times;
  • The path lies through the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve with all sorts of relics;
  • Ends with the sea (YES!!!);
  • A film was made about her (“Route” with A. Abdulov, 2008; haven’t seen it yet);
  • It has its own dramatic history: in 1975, a tragedy occurred here on the Armyanka River, which was followed by the entire Union - due to human carelessness and a terrible coincidence of circumstances, she died large group tourists (a very instructive story about behavior in a group and human psychology in extreme circumstances);
  • In fact (we went to test this hypothesis) - with good weather conditions this route is “traversed by a group of wounded children in sneakers.” And we - the moose on the tracks - have to go one at a time.


Route information

Route thread: Lago-Naki checkpoint (Maikop district, Adygea) - Abadzeshsky pass - Armenian shelter - Guzeriplsky pass - Fisht shelter - Belorechensky pass - Cherkessky pass - Bobuk-Aul cordon - Bobuk-Aul shelter - Solokh-Aul (Krasnodar region ).

Most of the route passes along the Lago-Naki plateau, at an altitude of 2000 m above sea level, through the passes of the Fisht-Oshtenovsky massif (the three most high peaks districts – Fisht, Oshten and Pshekha-su).

Travel time in “light” mode: 5 walking days / Length: 80 km / Dates: August 5 - 10, 2012

Exit to the route: air flight St. Petersburg - Krasnodar, taxi from Krasnodar airport to Lago-Naki checkpoint (approx. 200 km) / Exit from the route: bus Solokh-Aul - Dagomys, minibuses Dagomys - Sochi - Adler, plane a/ p Adler - St. Petersburg.

Day 1: Krasnodar - Lago-Naki checkpoint - Abadzeshsky pass - camp on the river. Armenian

On the night of August 3-4, 2012, the already well-established tourist team (or rather, its core of 4 people) left Pulkovo for Krasnodar.

At the airport we were met by a taxi driver of the most ordinary Krasnodar taxi. We were unable to find other ways to get on the route; however, the price tag for transporting four tourists with bulky backpacks to the neighboring Maykop region turned out, in our opinion, not too brutal: less than 4,000 rubles. (You just need to order a taxi in advance; at the airport the prices will be different).

The road to the Lago-Naki checkpoint takes approximately 4 hours. At about 16:00 we reach 1750 m above sea level and hit the barrier. At the same time, it begins to rain.

The checkpoint is a hut with a canopy. We hide under a canopy, fill out documents, pay for passes to the reserve. Our entire route will run through the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve, with all the ensuing restrictions. In particular, bonfires, felling of forests, fur trapping and other gatherings of wild plants are prohibited.

“Can we wait with you so as not to go out in the rain? “We’ll have to wait a long time... the cyclone has arrived, for ten days...”- Damn it. Who here dreamed of a sunny walk in the mountains? However, the Hydrometeorological Center warned:


After waiting for the moment when the rain became quieter, we set out. And then someone upstairs turns on the drain. The downpour comes with such force that we walk, overcoming the resistance of a wall of water and wind. The trousers immediately clung to the body, coldly and disgustingly. The boots are full of water that has poured through the top. You can’t raise your eyes to the road - the lashing rain washes your face in torrents. You look strictly at your feet from under your clumped eyelashes. The downpour is replaced by bombardment with medium-caliber hail. The noise accompaniment - thunderclaps in the mountains - inspires respect. Only after making sure that there is not a dry thread left, the elements calm down in the drizzling rain.

We reach the Lago-Naki plateau. The path is in places as wide as a dirt road, and in places it winds and branches in thick grass. When the sun comes out, it’s hot in the jackets; when it disappears, it’s cold. Changing clothes on the go:

The view is 360 degrees, the view is quite monotonous. But, since I am not Prishvin, let the photos tell about this area better:

We're glad to see the sun come out!

We are approaching the Abadzesh Pass. The climb here is not sharp at all; the pass itself is framed by low hills with trail markers.

From here you can see the peak of Oshten for the first time.

Then we go along the level and mostly downhill. But all the same: walking along the path, muddy from the rain and disturbed by horses, is a bit difficult if you’re not used to it. Slippery. Dirty and wet to the waist. On the horizon to the left are mighty three-thousanders.

By sunset we go out into the valley of the Armenian River (aka Guzeripl). There is already a fairly large tourist camp here with the same type of tents. Apparently, this camp has been here all season, inside and out. The rangers come up and ask to see documents.

The Armenian River is a tiny stream. You can’t even scoop up clean water with a pot everywhere - only on the rifts. And in this thin icy stream (much like a water cutoff in the city!), we wash our bodies and wash ourselves off. The tents were set up on a hillock, away from the others. The night promised to be clear and moonlit.

In the middle of the night we wake up to the heavens literally opening up. Lightning flashes - it feels like it - right behind the awning of the tent. “What the hell am I doing here?..” With each flash, the tent is festively illuminated (thanks for not flashing). “Who came up with all this anyway?”(a significant question that comes up sooner or later on every trip we take). “Great, we’re also on a bald hill!” Rolls of thunder roll across the valley from edge to edge and shake the tent. “It will burn to hell...” In general, every office worker NEEDS such existential revelations. To better understand the value of life in general and a dry bed under a roof in particular. Warm office chair, coffee and cookies, internet - oh, where are you? Is everyone still in the same Universe as me? And no littered ki-pi-ai, no working fakaps for adrenaline can even come close to the immediate threat of being buried in a landslide or hit by lightning here and now. A defenseless and weak little man - in the cocoon of a sleeping bag under a thin tent canvas - on the scale of mountains and the elements! For them, you and that crushed ant over there are just bullshit. And this awareness is somehow especially invigorating.

Day 2. Radial boat to Oshten. Go to the Fisht shelter.

As the subtitle suggests, everyone survived. And to celebrate, immediately after breakfast we went to the morning radial Mount Oshten. We started lightly at 10:00 am, telling Masha, who had a cold and remained in the camp, to wait for us at 14:00.

On the approaches to Oshten, it seems that taking this colossus at once - well, nooooo, without me! However, there are groups that are already descending from the top at that hour. And skipping and with children. So the eyes are afraid, but the legs move.

At first the path lies through a valley. Then the trail goes up to one of the spurs of Oshten.

At the gentle peak we take a break to catch our breath.

Landmarks - tourists. Just before we reach the Oshten ridge, we are faced with a serious climb up a scree rocky slope. But it’s generally safe to go: there is a path. This steep climb takes about half an hour with breaks.

After it we no longer walk along the ridge, but skip along.

From the ridge you can see the valley near Mount Fisht. We'll be there this evening. I wish I could go straight down there now! ( “Hello, Masha? pack up your camp and head to the Fisht shelter, we’ll meet you right there!” =)

The summit is a fairly flat and vast area. There are suddenly a lot of people here. Someone is preparing tea on a gas burner. Most are shouting excitedly into the phone - below mobile communications Hardly ever. Camera shutters crackle here and there.

But the weather begins to deteriorate, and we still have to return and stomp to Fisht. Let's go back. The descent is much more fun than the ascent.

Road from Oshten

At the beginning of two o'clock we are in the camp. We prepare lunch and pack our things to set out in the direction of the Fisht shelter immediately after lunch. There are 10 kilometers to the shelter and three notable points: Instructor's Gap, Guzeriplsky and Armenian passes. But after lunch it starts to rain. We postpone the start, hoping to wait it out. Since the tents have already been assembled, we dump our backpacks in a pile and, together with a pot of tea, cover ourselves with the awning. Drinking tea. We wait. Dozing.

Some time passes, and through my drowsiness I notice with displeasure that I am sitting on something wet. Trying to move doesn't change anything. I'm in a puddle. At the same moment, everyone else finds themselves in the same puddle. Alarm! Our hillock has become muddy and our backpacks are lying in a real swamp! We pick ourselves up and, together with the awning and property, jump in the rain to a small canopy near the Armenian woman.

The canopy is a roof on poles, without a floor or walls. The ground here is just as wet, but at least it’s not pouring from above. The place under the canopy, as the most chocolatey for many kilometers around, was naturally already occupied: a group from Moscow settled here. Meanwhile, the Armenian woman turned into a stormy muddy stream. Cold.

Half an hour later, two figures appear on the horizon and quickly approach, pulling our canopy towards them like a magnet. By their characteristic antlers, we recognize them as real moose, moving 50 km a day. And now we are already 11 refugees on five relatively dry square meters.

But daylight hours are limited, so we decide to go out in the rain. The rain, fortunately, is gradually subsiding.

After about 15 minutes we reach the Instructor's Gap.

Instructor's slit

The trail is obvious, well marked, and such a walk is a real pleasure. We're going at a good pace.

We pass the Guzeriplsky pass marked by the obelisk and move further to the Armenian pass. There must be a river flowing somewhere here funny name Muddy Teplyak, but we cannot identify it, since even streams are called rivers here, and in the rain streams appear spontaneously and everywhere.

Finally we reached the Armenian Pass. From here you can already see the valley of the Fisht shelter. The houses below look like toys against the backdrop of the giant peak of Fisht. Meanwhile, daylight is melting and disappearing right before our eyes. Here, above, there is much more of it than below, in the valley...

From the pass the trail dives into a beech forest. And then suddenly the light finally turns off. Pitch darkness. The flashlights are packed far into the backpack. Under your feet you can intuitively sense a rocky slope with wet tree roots and chomping mud. Gods! Open a teleport to the valley, please! Now what I most want to do is lie with my legs stretched out in a dry and warm sleeping bag and spit on the ceiling of the tent that has already been set up (and let me be clean already!) But everything is natural: we are in a fucking beech forest, and there’s nothing in sight here ! Every now and then losing the path, almost by touch, after another forty minutes we reach the Belaya River. The path leads us straight to the bridge, and on the other side, from the wandering lights in the bushes, we can discern a large camp.

The administrator of the base shows healthy indifference to our group: we were not asked to show documents or pay for accommodation. There are toilets in this direction, garbage cans in that direction, and drinking water in this stream. Here's everything we need to know about the shelter.

Important note: a drinking stream named after the deceased climber flows between the rock massif and the base. The camp administration does not recommend drinking water from the Belaya River (after the incident of mass poisoning several years ago). Previously, everyone chaotically washed themselves, washed clothes and drank from the same reservoir.

With the last effort of will we set up camp, wash in the invigoratingly icy Belaya, do laundry and cook dinner. Suddenly, from the Fisht-Oshten pass on the other side of the river, two lights appear. These are our familiar moose today. We got there, even though we started even later than us, and, apparently, they went around Oshten from the other side, through the Fisht-Oshten pass. Therefore, there is a path there too.

At night, lanterns loom on the ridge leading to the top of Fisht. This means that there, at a mind-boggling height, without firewood and, possibly, without water, people nestled among the rocks and are spending the night. And that's cool.

Day 3. Fisht: summit and shelter

Radial on Fisht. You can climb Fisht only very early in the morning and at very good weather. They say: if there is even a cloud in the sky in the morning, there is no point in getting up. By the time you get there, the weather will deteriorate to the point of “impossible to go.” Sometimes they wait for several days for weather to climb Fisht. But we don’t have that luxury: today it’s either yes or no.

The climb to Fisht is of a more difficult category than to Oshten. And for him you have to get up at five or six in the morning. I am faint-hearted and refuse to go. Masha has a cold and also doesn’t go to Fisht. The delegation to the summit is reduced to two people - Anton and Yura. And Masha and I have a day off. With laundry, drinking cocoa and studying the base.

Here's what the guys from Fisht brought back that day:

Glacier on Fisht

Having set out at six in the morning, they returned somewhere around four in the afternoon.

Meanwhile, Masha and I explored the territory of the Fisht shelter far and wide. Everything here is permeated with the atmosphere of good old Soviet tourism and pioneer camp.

Children play volleyball. The elders sit around the fire pits with a guitar. Rushing through the camp: “The sea is wicked... like a cup of wine...” or “The time is coming! People are losing their heads! And this time is called spring!” The singer's voice is mesmerizing. If only we knew that this voice would haunt us for three more days.

The windows of the barracks houses are wide open and inside you can see simple bunk beds with a truly pioneering mess. Everything is very old, but good quality, lovingly made. Open gazebos with fire pits, Volleyball Court with a net, a bathhouse, washbasins on the street, bridges over a stream, wooden toilets with separation for men and women... This is such a stronghold of “civilization” among the deserted mountains (although the local mountains can only be called deserted with a stretch). But there are people here, and they live here all season. A safe place where you can take shelter, wait out bad weather, ask for advice and help. Neither water nor highway not here, but as far as we understand, there is some kind of helicopter connection.

Fisht in the light of day. Clearing for tents

During the day, volunteers with garbage bags walk around the entire area and collect trash. Apparently, they come here for a long time, if not for the whole summer.

The day passes very slowly and calmly.

In the evening, everyone is attracted to the gazebos with bonfires. Groups gather and play “Crocodile,” which isn’t easy, but it’s tricky. Judging by the accepted system of gestures and concepts, crocodile gurus have gathered here. We also fit into this cheerful midnight delirium. “What is this, what are you showing, explain in human terms? Space? Frying pan? Acceleration? Eat? Eat? Barack Obama?…"

Day 4. Belorechensky and Cherkessky passes.

In the morning after breakfast we leave the shelter. The trail runs across a drinking stream, past rocks with memorial plaques to the climbers, tourists and rescuers who died here, and rushes upward into coniferous forest. We begin to gain altitude.

The trail winds along the Fisht slope. At some point, we overtake a heterogeneous group of 15-20 people, with teenagers and adults, led by yesterday’s guitarist and singer with a beautiful, powerful, deep voice. He gives the command to his men to let us through, and they part.

Belorechensky pass

Just before the Belorechensky pass the climb was steep and we were out of breath. Or what about cows and horses grazing all around? They find it easy to jump up and down slopes...

Belorechensky pass

From the Belorechensky pass to the Cherkessky pass we follow a path along the slope, almost without losing altitude. On the way we meet a shepherd's base, in the local language - a booth. Located near the town of Mavrikoshka, it is called: “Balagan at Mavrikoshka”.

Approaches to the Cherkessky pass

There is a large tourist group on Cherkessky. That's why we don't linger here, but immediately dive down. No more passes are expected, and this is a joy! Ahead is only what in the descriptions of the route is called the “Merry Descent” (or “Sad Ascent” - depending on which direction you go). The trail actually goes down at a noticeable pleasant slope. Nice, wide forest path. There are solid beeches all around (just like in the St. Petersburg metro on Monday morning):

It is in this forest that we get up for lunch. Water is a bit tight here; you don’t come across very small streams very often. But with desire and patience, you can fill a pot of clean water. While we are having lunch, we are overtaken by a group with a loud instructor, with whom we left the Fisht shelter at the same time today.

Traditionally, in the afternoon, clouds roll over the mountains and distant rumbles of thunder begin. Maybe it won't reach us? Maybe we are already close enough to the sea? But no. The rain has long legs, and it reaches us. We stretch the awning across the path. After waiting, we continue our descent. The descent becomes really steep. It's amazing how such powerful trees grow here! The faces of the oncoming groups on their way up inspire us to heroic deeds. However, anticipating the imminent twilight, we are already looking for a place to spend the night.

The ideal place for camp - we overheard this the day before - is a clearing with ferns, or “Stadnik's Glade”. And indeed, we will soon reach it. But the best (and most level) place on it has already been occupied by a loud group. We stand a little lower, on a platform with a slight slope. There is a small stream flowing along the path, from which you can squeeze water for drinking and washing.

A characteristic feature of the clearing is an old withered tree:

It would be a sin to miss this and not use it for a cute vacation photo. Even Yura couldn’t resist:

In the evening (for the first time in the reserve!) we light a fire (well, there’s a fireplace, so it’s possible!). Naturally, all sushi is used for firewood. There is no need to talk - in the neighboring camp a loud leader works as a sound accompaniment for two camps: “Who put his mug in my way here? I’m not a proud guy, I’ll get over it, but I’m just curious...” After valuable instructions for setting up the camp have been distributed, everything has been done and everyone has gathered for dinner, the landing stories begin: “Remember, guys: jump to the forest, to the water and to the mountains - these are three different exercises!..” And finally he picks up the guitar. He definitely sings well.

We fall asleep under the lulling “Green Carriage”: “The little mice, the cubs and the boys are sleeping...”

Day 5. Babuk-aul - Solokh-aul

Lulled by the little bear mice, we fall soundly asleep until the morning. And we wake up to the same voice with a strikingly different intonation: “Assholes!!!” From further development It is clear to me that someone launched a wasp into the tent of the paratrooper leader.

The descent ends in the settlement of Babuk-aul. Widowers were called “babuki” in Adygea. Widows are solokhs. Hence the name of the next one settlement, where we are heading: widow's village, Solokh-aul.

On the way there is a bridge like this (cross one at a time!)

Beyond the bridge we continue our path along the Shakhe River. The path now looks more like a road. After some time we go to the Babuk-Aul tourist shelter. Stop for lunch.

At the Babuk-Aul shelter we meet for the last time a friendly group of the loud paratrooper Anton Viktorovich (we already know the name of the courageous leader of children and women). They stay overnight on the territory of the shelter, and that’s quite alright a good option. The administration of the base - a lady with a dog - is also trying to convince us of this, claiming that there is still 17 km to Solokh-Aul, and there is no way to camp before it. But we are adamant: today we need to get as close as possible to Solokh-Aul and we move on.

Behind the shelter we enter a picturesque boxwood forest:


Slowly the road is forming into a decent dirt road along the Shakhe River. On one side there is a slope covered with shaggy greenery, on the other there is a cliff, with a river below. Sometimes you come across streams, big and small. For example, you can take a shower under this!

Right next to this waterfall we are overtaken by the traditional afternoon bad weather. Suddenly it becomes dark and the wind begins to hum alarmingly in the treetops. While we were taking out our raincoats and sheathing our backpacks, a huge piece of wood, about five meters long, flew straight to our feet from above. It can kill you like that. Come on - let's go! And we run with redoubled enthusiasm, but it’s too late: the rain is pouring down. After a couple of minutes, in general, it doesn’t matter how long we still have to walk to the nearest roof: we are wet to our underwear. The boots are full of water again. We continue to stomp under the refreshing rain shower. The tall, dry forest crackles ominously all around.

However, after some more time we come to a sudden checkpoint: a hut with a canopy. No one comes out to our knocking and voices and we decide to wait under the canopy. An unfinished bottle of vodka on the table clearly indicates that the trace of a person here has not yet gone cold... We are wondering whether we should spend the night in this booth under the roof. Suddenly, out of nowhere - a car! And now we are already compacted into the UAZ. It’s not sporty, but we comfortably cover the remaining 7 kilometers to the checkpoint when leaving the reserve. Over abysses and across rivers, the road resembles a trophy. Along the way, the driver tells us that the road to Babuk-aul - the one we walked along today - was blocked in one place, and now it’s impossible to pass. Well, this happens here. It's good that we got through.

At the checkpoint we are asked to present documents and given precise instructions on where we can stop for the night. In principle, the place on a flat but gloomy clearing near the rocky river bed suits us. One bad thing: they didn’t take care of the backpacks; the contents got wet. Let me tell you, sleeping in a wet sleeping bag is not a pleasant experience. We somehow dry ourselves out, as far as the post-rain evening air allows, and go to bed - our last night on the route.

Day 6. Solokh-Aul - Morko!

In the morning we only have a short march to Solokh-Aul, which takes us about 2 hours along a good, compacted road, in places reminiscent of a tunnel to a wonderland.

In Solokh-aul I say goodbye to my LOWA combat tracks, which served me faithfully in summer and winter, in Altai, on Baikal, in the Khibiny Mountains and many other places. The Caucasus finished them off, but they lived a decent life!

At the entrance to Solokh-aul, we, in our last dry and clean T-shirts, worn on the occasion of the end of the route and access to the sea, are doused with rain for the last time. We're running straight to bus stop. Solokh-aul is considered the birthplace of the Krasnodar variety of tea, there is even something like a museum with a tasting room, but we reject the option of a cultural program. Only to the sea! We are waiting for the bus to Dagomys.

This dog met us at the entrance to Solokh-aul and accompanied us to the stop, for which he was rewarded with sausage and bread.

By the evening of the same day it was waiting for us. Morko!!! Thunder rumbled and lightning flashed in the distant mountains. And we enjoyed the warm (and dry!) ​​Adler evening. And only out of the corner of my mind I thought about tourists getting wet in the mountains. Well, in any case, they still have the sea ahead of them! And we honestly deserve our sea happiness)

Additional information about the route traveled

Route descriptions from other groups:

  • http://mountaintrips.ru/routest/sea/30-ka/ - route description
  • http://ppeterr.narod.ru/fisht_1.html - similar route
  • http://golodranec.ru/index.php?article=77 - detailed report from a group from Moscow
  • Region: Western Caucasus
  • Duration: 9 days
  • Complexity:
    • 75 km.
    • 25 km.
    • 2804 m. Oshten
  • Other dates

    • Legendary Thirty- this is the most famous hiking trip in the Western Caucasus since the times of the Soviet Union, passing along picturesque mountains Adygea. This route is unique in that it passes through all climatic zones and landscapes - from the Kuban steppes to high-altitude permafrost, from humid subtropics to glaciers. The Thirty hike is very variable. The option described below is just one of many possible paths that can be taken. Each instructor has his own favorite trails and his own vision of what is most beautiful on this route. Therefore, the thread may change depending on the weather, the condition of the group and requests and suggestions. But in any case, no matter what path you take, an unforgettable experience awaits you, and every hiking day will contain a little life!

    Route plan:

    1 day

    Krasnodar - Khadzhokh - Rufabgo Waterfalls - Khadzhokh Gorge

    We meet at the southern wing of the Krasnodar-1 railway station at about 11 am. We make a transfer (4 hours) to the small town of Hadzhokh, where our Thirty starts. Its picturesque brick houses and green foothills give it a resemblance to some towns in Swiss Alps. During the USSR, Khadzhokh was called Kamennomostsky, because from ancient times industrial stonemasons lived here. We set up camp in a cozy place and go to explore the main local attractions - the Rufabgo waterfalls and the Khadzhokh Gorge (the canyon of the Belaya River). The Khadzhokh Gorge is a very narrow and deep canyon, which the stormy and noisy Belaya River carved into these stones over hundreds of years. Let's walk along the river to the Rufabgo waterfalls, of which there are 7 here. By evening we will return to camp. Bonfire, dinner, getting to know each other.

    Day 2

    Transfer to the Lagonaki checkpoint - Instructor's gap

    In the morning we will be transferred to the Lagonaki checkpoint. A short delay for formalities at the entrance, and now we are already in the Lagonaki Biosphere Reserve. Today we have a short and easy transition to the Instructor's Gap - the place of our overnight stay. However, if you are unaccustomed to it and with heavy backpacks, the path may seem difficult. No problem, everyone will adapt tomorrow. And the beauty of the Lagonaki Nature Reserve will be a well-deserved reward for our endurance. In the reserve you can only cook on a burner, so, unfortunately, there will be no long cozy gatherings around the fire. If anyone has any strength left, they can walk along the Rublenoye stream along the rifts down and back.

    Day 3

    Radialka to Oshten (2804 m)

    We will devote this day to a radial (light, without backpacks) ascent to Mount Oshten. We leave our things in the same camp and go to storm the peak. Let's leave as early as possible, because in the Caucasus it is such a peculiarity that in the afternoon it often rains, and the snow-capped peaks are also covered with clouds and fog. To avoid getting lost, you need to get up at dawn. After beautiful views Lagonaki, opening from the top of Oshten, does not want to go back down. We spend the night in the same camp - swim in waterfalls, admire the stars, and relax.

    4 day

    Crossing the Guzeripl and Armenian passes - radial to the Small Fisht Glacier

    Today we are moving to the Fisht camp site. Along the way we will need to overcome two simple passes - Guzeriplsky and Armenian. We arrive at the parking lot around 15:00, leave our things and follow a narrow trampled forest path to the radial path to the Small Fisht Glacier - one of the lowest non-melting glaciers in the Caucasus and throughout the world. We spend the night at the Fisht camp site.

    5 day

    Radials to the Fisht-Oshten pass and Lake Psenodakh

    We stay at the Fisht camp site and climb radially today to the Fisht-Oshten pass. It is very windy here, but this will not stop us from admiring the monument to the defenders of the Caucasus during the Great Patriotic War. Also from here we can see our entire route to the camp site. After the pass we will go to the famous Mountain Lake Psenodach, located at an altitude of 1952 m in the shape of a crescent. The surrounding views are worthy of an artist's brush! And the water temperature in the lake is only +4 degrees. The bravest ones will swim in its icy waters. In the evening we will return to the camp site.

    Day 6

    Belorechensky and Cherkessky passes

    Today we leave the hospitable Fisht camp site and move on. Our path will lie through the simple Belorechesky Pass (1782 m), after overcoming which we will reach the next one - the Circassian Pass (1800 m). The view from here of the green valleys and sharp rocky peaks is simply incredible! We will go to the parking lot to the booths of Armenian shepherds, and spend the night in one of the authentic booths.

    Day 7

    Moonlight Glade - 200-meter waterfall

    We are moving towards Vodopadisty. On the way we pass Putin's dacha on Lunnaya Polyana. They say that when the owner is here, helicopters circle over the dacha day and night, dispersing the clouds. We will soon come to a stunning 200-meter waterfall, where we will rest and take a swim, refreshing ourselves from the road. Our trekking is almost complete, there is nowhere to rush and it’s quite possible to relax. We will spend the night near a strange river, which by August practically dries up during the daytime, and appears again in the evenings for several hours. This phenomenon is explained simply - the river is filled with the waters of a glacier that melts during the day, and during the cold night the water freezes and by morning disappears completely. We will see such a natural metamorphosis with our own eyes.

    Day 8

    Transfer to Dagomys

    In the morning we walk another 3 km to a picturesque observation deck, admire the mountains again, and then leave for Dagomys in a custom car. We put up tents in convenient location at the sea, swimming, sunbathing, relaxing.

    Day 9

    Op. Way home.

    All we have to do is get to the bus or train station in Sochi, and then go home. Our "Legendary Thirty" hike is completed. See you again in the mountains.

    Route map "Legendary Thirty"

    The cost of the trip includes:

    • Instructor-guide services
    • 3 meals a day
    • Registration of the group with the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia
    • Boilers, gas, burner, fire equipment
    • Group medical kit (at the conductor)

    The cost of the trip does not include:

    • Personal equipment rental
    • Medical insurance
    • Transfers, nature reserve, attractions, etc.

    Approximate price of the tour: 9000 RUB tour + 3000 RUB additional. expenses + train tickets

    helpful information

    This is a real hike. We carry food, equipment and personal belongings in backpacks on our backs. We spend the night in tents and cook over a fire (sometimes on a burner).

    The instructor has the right to change the route depending on the weather, the condition of the group and other factors.

    Payment in cash at the beginning of the hike to the instructor. When leaving the route, the money is not recalculated and is not returned.

    Groups usually have from 10 to 15 participants.

    The improvement of the camp (installation of tents, collection of firewood, cooking) is carried out by all participants of the hike. Working together is more pleasant and fun :).

    Reviews

    Zakalichnaya Olga
    • 09.01.2015
    Belokonev Roman
    • (34 years old) Yartsevo
    • 06.01.2015

    Unforgettable Route Thirtieth

    Legendary Thirty from September 23 to October 1, 2013

    The idea to go hiking arose quite spontaneously. The main catalyst was a report on one of the travel sites dedicated to the Lycian Way.

    So, everything was so beautifully described there and there were such amazing photos and such enthusiastic reviews that I set myself the goal of definitely going there. After thinking carefully, I came to the conclusion: first you should gain experience of serious hiking so that during a voyage abroad you can completely immerse yourself in the contemplation of nature, and not be distracted by all sorts of nonsense - like adjusting the straps of a backpack (.

    The famous "Thirty" - legendary route 30 through the mountains to the sea
    The route was restored in 2001.

    Spending the night at a camp site and in permanent shelters, traveling with a light backpack, cooking by a cook.
    Certified instructors work with the group. Joining a group from one person.

    Route 30 passes nearby famous mountain. Fisht is one of the most grandiose and significant monuments nature of Russia, closest to Moscow high mountains. Tourists travel lightly through all the landscape and climatic zones of the country from the foothills to the subtropics, spending the night in shelters.

    Arrivals in 2019:

    June: 10.06 – 16.06; 17.06 – 23.06; 24.06 — 30.06
    July: 01.07 – 07.07; 08.07 – 14.07; 15.07 – 21.07; 22.07 — 28.07; 29.07 — 04.08
    August: 05.08 – 11.08; 12.08 – 18.08; 19.08 — 25.08; 26.08 — 01.09
    September: 02.09 — 08.09; 09.09 — 15.09

    On arrival days there is a transfer from the Krasnodar railway station at 06:30, from the airport at 07:00, the cost is 500 rubles per person.

    1 day. Check-in at a camp site or hotel in the village of Kamennomostsky, accommodation in rooms with amenities on site, meeting with an instructor. Walk to the Through Cave. Lunch at the camp site. Excursion to an unequipped part of the canyon. The canyon displays amazing, unique, talented works of stone art created by nature. Getting to know the area. After dinner, an evening of dating, gatherings around the fire.

    Day 2. Hiking to the Rufabgo gorge (the main natural monument of this area). On the route you will see five picturesque, explore the grotto - parking primitive man and the surrounding rocks are covered with lush vegetation. Lunch in the gorge near a tourist fire. Return to the camp site through observation platforms. In the evening, songs with a guitar on the fire pit.

    Day 3. A training hike in. The gorge is located away from popular tourist trails, but also has picturesque waterfalls, beautiful grottoes, and caves. All around are chestnut and beech forests. These are the sites of Neanderthal settlements, which are 120 - 130 thousand years old. A huge accumulation of burial mounds from the Zikh, Kasozh, Meotosarmatian and Scythian periods keep the secret of the peoples who existed here. The path runs along a clean rocky stream bed polished with water, lunch in the gorge. In the evening we hand over things not needed on the main hike to be sent to Dagomys. Getting ready for the main hike.

    Day 4 Bus crossing Hadjokh - . Hiking to the Fisht shelter. On this day you will pass the ridge, four easy passes, and visit the subalpine and alpine zones. Lunch in the alpine near the karst lake. In the first half of summer, part of the route passes through snowfields. This is the most interesting and eventful day of the route. In the evening, flag raising and gatherings around the fire.

    Day 5 Shelter "Fisht" - radial access to the Small Glacier. On this day you will visit the classic nival zone (the zone of bare rocks, eternal ice and snow). At your feet will be mountain gorges. Lunch at the shelter. For those who want to climb the huge boulder Fishtenok. Bonfire in the evening.

    Day 6 Shelter "Fisht" - lane. Belorechensky - shelter "Babuk-aul". On this day, you will find two easy passes (where there is a telephone connection) and a long, “Jolly” descent into the subtropical zone through beech forests of the Colchis type. In the evening, presentation of badges and Russian tourist certificates.

    Day 7 Shelter "Babuk-aul" - the village of Solokh-aul - Dagomys. We will spend this day in the humid subtropics, walk through a boxwood grove, see lush and lush vegetation, several waterfalls, and many rare and beautiful rock forms. Lunch at the Bzych River. Bus transfer to the village. Dagomys, after 17.00 arrival in Dagomys. In Dagomys, receiving personal belongings handed over in Khadzhokh.

    Tour cost for one participant: 17,900 rubles.

    The cost of the program includes: accommodation at the camp site and tourist shelters, 3 meals a day, cook services at the camp site and shelters, instructor services, internal route transport, transportation of things (resort) from Khadzhokh to Dagomys, delivery of almost all food and gas to the shelters, rental of group equipment, entrance fees (except entertainment center Khadzhokh Gorge), group first aid kit, fee for staying in the reserve.

    The cost of the program does not include: travel, equipment rental.

    Required personal equipment: backpack (50 - 70 liters), personal sleeping bag and mat, rain cape, hiking shoes - sneakers or hiking boots, replacement shoes, shower slippers, warm tracksuit and sweater, nylon wind suit, long-sleeved shirt, hat with wide brim, small flashlight, plastic water bottle, personal utensils, seat.


    Hiking in the Caucasus "Thirty" - the most popular hiking route in former Union, stretching from Khadzhokh to Dagomys. Throughout we will be accompanied by stunning beauty Caucasus mountains, mountain rivers with clear water, vast alpine meadows, dense forests and warm subtropics at the finish line. The route lasts 9 days and is perfect for both experienced tourists and those who are going to the Caucasus for the first time .

    Duration campaign: 9 days (8 nights).

    Length: 70 km.

    Complexity: Average (not categorical)

    Tour cost: 9000 rub.

    Start location: Krasnodar until 11 am or Hadzhokh (until evening)

    The hike ends: Dagomys in the morning or in Adler at 13:00 in the afternoon

    Hiking dates in 2019:

    • 07.07 - 15.07
    • 18.07 - 26.07
    • 29.07 - 06.08
    • 09.08 - 17.08
    • 20.08 - 28.08
    • 31.08 - 08.09
    • 11.09 - 19.09

    Hadzhokh (Kamennomostsky) - White River- Rufabgo waterfalls - Azish Tau - Tsitsa river - Lagonaki plateau - Lake Psedonakh - Oshten (2804 m) - Maykop pass - Pshekho Su - Fisht - Cherkessk pass - Lunnaya Polyana - Vodopadisty stream - Dagomys.

    1 day. Khadzhokh - Belaya River Canyon - Rufabgo Waterfalls

    We begin our journey to resort town Caucasus Khadzhokh Kamenomostsky, which is located in Adygea. We will get here in the evening, and after examining the town, we will go to the canyon of the Belaya River (another name is the Khadzhokh Gorge). Here the beautiful Belaya River roars, polishing the polished stones of the canyon to a shine. This is where we will stay for the night. In the meantime, let's go for a walk to the most beautiful and revered by tourists Rufabgo (Evil Wizard) waterfalls, where we will admire the noisy Cascade, Lace and other waterfalls. And of course the tallest and most beautiful Big Lace. The waterfalls are especially beautiful after rains, when streams of water rush noisily over the rocks.

    Day 2. Abadzesh Pass - Lagonaki Plateau - Chopped stream - Tsitsa River

    In the morning we will move to the Abadzesh Pass, located on the territory of the Caucasus Nature Reserve, where our hike through the Caucasus Mountains begins. There is snow in the karst sinkholes here even in summer, and alpine herbs bloom wildly around. We have to go to the mountain river Tsitsa, and along the way we will cross the Lagonaki plateau, from where we have stunning views of Mount Oshten, rising like a granite bastion above the plateau. And we will have to spend the night at the Tsitsa, which originates here.

    Distance covered - 10 km

    Day 3. Mount Oshten (2804 m)

    Lightly, leaving our backpacks in the camp, we will make a radial exit to the beautiful Oshten, covered in places with snow. And upon your return you can swim in a cold mountain river. The water temperature here does not exceed four degrees in the hottest summer, and therefore only the bravest will be able to plunge into the water.

    Radial up and back 800 meters, distance covered - 12 km

    Day 4 Lake Psedonakh - Mount Pshekho-Su

    The mountain lake Psedonakh, which we are about to see today, stretches from north to south like a crescent, its depth does not exceed half a meter. Scattered in the vicinity of the lake, the Oshten, Fisht and Pshekho-Su mountains look like each other like siblings, and many local legends and beliefs are associated with them. We will climb Pshekho Su and admire the stone Fisht and the white silence of the Great Glacier lying nearby.

    Up - 800 meters, down - 650, distance traveled - 10 km

    Day 5 Shelter Fisht

    In the afternoon we will make the trek to the shelter located under Mount Fisht. From the shelter you can walk lightly to the glacier sliding down Fisht. This mountain has several glaciers encircling the rocks and slowly flowing down. Here, under Mount Fisht, there are almost half a hundred caves, which are constantly visited by speleologists.

    The transition to the Fisht shelter is 8 km, the descent is 1 km.

    Day 6 Moonlight Glade. Waterfall stream.

    And then we have to walk along the presidential megastructure ski resort, scattered on the slopes of Mount Fisht in Moonlight Glade. After passing the ski lifts, we will go down to the Vodopadisty stream, which gives rise to one of the most high waterfalls Caucasus.

    Elevation gain - 300 meters, elevation loss - 700 meters, distance traveled - 9 km

    Day 7 Mount Mavrikoshka, Circassian Pass. Babuk Aul

    We continue our journey and by lunchtime we will reach the Cherkessky pass, from where we will admire Mount Mavrikoshka, towering above the surrounding valleys. At the pass there is a stele to those who died in the battles of the Great Patriotic War. A little lower than the Circassian Pass there are many shepherd's shelters, sometimes we spend the night in one of them in case of bad weather, but usually we go down the Vesyoly Descent towards Babuk Aul and the Shakhe River. We will be in Babuk Aul in the evening.

    Ascent - 400 meters, down - 800 meters, distance - 12 km

    Day 8 Dagomys. Uch Dere.

    From the Babuk Aul shelter we walk down the forest road. A few kilometers along the forest road and soon we will reach the village of Solokh Aul. Here we board the bus and go to Dagomys. By evening we will arrive in a nice and cozy place- semi - wild beach in the Uch Dere gully, where we will spend our last camping night. We will spend the night on the beach, listening to the music of the waves and the sound of the night surf.

    Distance - 23 km

    Day 9 Home.

    Today is our final day, we get on the train and go in different directions. From our overnight stay it takes 25 minutes to get to Sochi train station. If you travel by train, take a return ticket from Sochi. If you are traveling by plane, it takes 1.5 hours to get to Adler by train. See you again!

    Clarification:

    Depending on the situation regarding the construction of the road to Babuk Aul (the passage and passage were closed for two years, but in August 2015 they were allowed to walk along it - for how long is unknown) therefore, there are two possible finish options for this route - the description shows a route ending in Dagomys, the backup option is Tuapse and overnight on the Kiselyov rocks. From here to Sochi it takes 3 hours by train, to Tuapse - 15 minutes, to Krasnodar 3 hours.

    It's beautiful and . We carry everything we need with us. Depending on the state of the group and weather conditions, the instructor may make

    Arrival dates: every Monday

    Season: Summer autumn

    Tour cost: 16500 rub.

    All-Union walking route No. 30 in the 80s of the 20th century became a kind of symbol, defining the belonging of lovers of fires and tents to the tribe of real tourists. It must be said that this route became famous thanks to Chinese traders of silk and other goods. Caravans equipped for trading in the Black Sea markets were accompanied by reliable guides who chose this route as the shortest and safest.

    The length of the route is up to 80 km. The entire hike takes place in the best traditions of lovers of romance: we go with backpacks and enjoy the beauty mountain landscapes, sleep in tents, have dinner by the fire. In terms of intensity, this route is accessible to any healthy person, without acute illnesses or special medical restrictions. During the hike we will pass through several alternating climatic zones: subalpine, alpine, tropics and subtropics. Throughout route 30 we will be accompanied by many endemic plants, canyons, alpine meadows, coniferous forests, and mountain rivers. This unforgettable fairy tale will remain with you forever.

    "Through the mountains to the sea. The famous thirty"

    Arrival dates in 2017:

    June: 05.06 - 11.06; 12.06 - 18.06; 19.06 - 25.06; 26.06 - 02.07
    July: 03.07 - 09.07; 10.07 - 16.07; 17.07 - 23.07; 24.07 - 30.07, 31.07 - 06.08
    August: 07.08 - 13.08; 14.08 - 20.08; 21.08 - 27.08; 28.08 - 03.09
    September: 04.09 - 10.09; 11.09 - 17.09

    1 day. Meeting at the Krasnodar train station (for an additional fee - 500 rubles per person) Accommodation at a camp site, lunch. An easy walk to the Through Cave and the canyon of the Belaya River. After the walk, a conversation and instruction on safety precautions and rules of conduct in the mountains. Dinner. Gatherings around the fire.

    Day 2. Waterfalls always enchant with the endless sound of falling water, more like music. Shum is one of the five waterfalls we will visit today in the Rufabgo Gorge. Each of the waterfalls is different from the other. Next come Cascade, Heart of Rufabgo, Maiden's Braid, Cup of Love. For complete happiness, you can swim in the waterfall and have lunch in one of the green meadows near the tourist fire. Next, we will continue our way up the gorge, with stops at observation platforms, and return to the camp site. At the camp site we will have dinner and songs with a guitar around the evening fire.

    Day 3. Today we go to the Meshoko gorge, walking along the bed of a stream surrounded by chestnut and beech forests. The gorge greets us with picturesque views: waterfalls, grottoes and caves welcome our group. During this training trip, the instructor talks about the basics of behavior as part of a tourist group. Next, we make a fire and prepare lunch. Swimming in the waterfall is not prohibited! We return to the camp site, have dinner and prepare our backpacks for the upcoming hike in the mountains. We give things that are not needed on the route to the instructor to be sent to the place of our arrival at sea.

    4 day. We wake up in high spirits, have breakfast and go to the Lago-Naki plateau. We are located on the territory of the Caucasian Biosphere nature reserve. Our first goal is the tourist shelter "Fisht" at an altitude of 1600 m. The path to it lies along an endless mountain plateau in the alpine and subalpine zones. There are four passes ahead: Abadzeshsky, Instructor's Gap, Guzerpilsky, Armenian. We have lunch on the shore of a karst lake. We continue our journey surrounded by unrealistically beautiful mountain flowers and unmelted snowfields. We arrive at the Fisht shelter at 18-19.00. There is a small shop here, products to which are delivered by helicopter. Then we have dinner among the snowy mountain peaks and we understand how beautiful this world is..

    5 day. On this day we relax, walk, take photographs, in a word, enjoy being in the mountains. On the territory of the shelter there are grounds for playing football and volleyball. There are board games. Shelter "Fisht", this is it unique place, where numerous hiking trails intersect. The roof of the shelter is often visited by avid travelers, romantics, interesting people, and therefore you will always find a nice campaign. We will offer you to go out to the small Fisht glacier in the zone of eternal snow and ice. You will have the opportunity to play snowballs and have fun sliding down the slopes of the glacier under the bright rays of the sun.

    Day 6 After breakfast, we will have a simple route to the Belorechensky and Cherkessky passes. Along the way, we will definitely visit the shepherds and try high-mountain cheese prepared according to our grandfather’s old recipes. The ascent along the trails turns into the long-awaited “Vesely” descent, which will take our group to the kingdom of a light beech forest. Walking in the forest is always noticeably easier, and very soon the Babuk-Aul shelter will open its doors. In the evening, presentation of a state award - a badge and a certificate for a tourist of Russia.

    Day 7. Today we take a walk in the humid subtropics, pass a relict boxwood grove and go to sparkling waterfalls. We swim, sunbathe. Lunch at the Bzych River. Bus transfer to the village. Dagomys. Receiving personal items. That's all... We say goodbye to you until we meet again, and you are left to relax on the Black Sea according to your plan.

    Note: If necessary, we will help with accommodation in local holiday homes and organize transfers.

    Children under 10 years old are not allowed on the route!

    Tour cost: 16,500 rubles per person.

    The tour price includes:

    Accommodation at camp sites and tourist shelters

    3 meals a day

    Instructor services

    Transfer within the route

    Transportation of things from the village of Kamennomostsky to Loo

    Equipment rental (tents, bowlers, first aid kit, etc.)

    Entrance tickets to excursion sites (except for the Khadzhoch Gorge) and stay in the reserve

    Delivery of food to shelters

    First aid kit for a group

    Insurance

    The tour price does not include:

    Transfer from Krasnodar to the village of Kamennomostsky - 500 rubles

    Accommodation on the coast - 700 rubles

    Sleeping bag rental - 300 rubles for all days of the trip

    Backpack rental - 700 rubles for all days of the hike

    Route 30 Light

    June: 08.06 - 13.06; 15.06 - 20.06; 22.06 - 27.06; 29.06 - 04.07
    July: 06.07 - 11.07; 13.07 - 18.07; 20.07 - 25.07; 27.07 - 01.08
    August: 03.08 - 08.08; 10.08 - 15.08; 17.08 - 22.08; 24.08 - 29.08; 31.08 - 05.09
    September: 07.09 - 12.09; 14.09 - 19.09

    This lightweight route through the mountains to the sea lasts 6 days and differs from the full 8-day route in that we will spend less time in the village of Kamennomostsky and will not take a walk to the waterfalls in the Rufabgo gorge. Without a training hike to the Meshoko gorge, on the 2nd day after accommodation we will go to the Lago-Naki plateau, from where we will begin our interesting journey through alpine meadows through the mountains to the sea along the same 30th route. The village of Solokh-Aul is famous thanks to the tea grower I.A. Koshman, who planted the first tea bushes brought from Chakva back in 1901. In the village we will visit the house-museum of tea, go for a tasting of tea and mountain honey with hot pancakes. At the end of the hike, all group members will be awarded “Russian Tourist” badges. In conclusion, we go by bus to the village of Dagomys, where the long-awaited sea awaits you!

    Tour cost: 10,300 rubles per person.

    The tour price includes:

    Accommodation in a tent camp

    3 meals a day

    Instructor services

    Equipment rental (tents, awnings, bowlers)

    Transfer from the village of Kamennomostsky to the Lago-Naki plateau

    Entrance fees to the reserve

    Visit to the tea house museum

    The tour price does not include:

    Transfer to the village of Kamennomostsky

    Rental of personal equipment (sleeping bag and mat - 250 rubles for all days of the hike)

    Hotel accommodation on the coast

     

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