Yazd city. Yazd, Iran - all about the city with photos. A brief excursion into history

Yazd- one of the most beautiful and original cities in Iran, located 500 km southeast of Tehran. It's surprising how few tourists come here compared to Isfahan and Shiraz. All the more pleasant for the few who came to Yazd. It is this city that is the center of Zoroastrianism (fire worship), and it is here that every third citizen professes this ancient belief in the greatness of fire. In fact, the very name of the city, “Yazd” (Yazdan), is translated as “Divine”. Yazd has seen such famous travelers, like Mark Polo and Afanasy Nikitin. Now he saw us too. I don’t know about Yazd, but we really liked him. This is a complete museum open air, almost perfectly preserved through the centuries.

The entire city center is built of unbaked clay, resembling one huge “Kasaba”, as if we were in Morocco. A tangle of narrow streets in which you can (and should!) get lost at least once. The streets wind and turn sharply from side to side, leading past ancient mosques, walls of the city fortress, bazaars, hammams (baths). Regarding the latter, I must replace that in Farsi the bathhouse is not called hammam, but something else. Of the landmarks that should be visited in Yazd, I would highlight its two main mosques - the wonderful Masjid al-Kebir, and the no less impressive Mir Chakmak in the very center of the city. Both mosques were built in the 15th and 16th centuries, and are distinguished by exceptionally beautiful decor and an interesting “stalactite” structure, typical only of Iranian mosques.

In the city, numerous strange turrets - badgirs - are striking, towering over the brown clay old city. At first we decided that these were the minarets of small mosques. But it turned out that these turrets served as ventilation centuries ago. They caught the slightest breath of wind, passed it down into the living quarters, saving residents from sweltering heat. The real grandfathers of modern air conditioners!

On the very outskirts of the city there is a remarkable monument - the Towers of Death, erected on two low hills. Even 20 years ago, the bodies of deceased followers of the fire cult were brought here and stored here. At the same time, these towers accommodated several hundred bodies. Over the course of several days, or even weeks, the bodies gradually began to disintegrate. They were taken away by birds and visiting predators, such as wolves and foxes. Then, when only gnawed and sun-baked bones remained from the bodies, the clergy came and buried it all in a huge hole in the center of each of the towers. Nowadays, this ominous ritual has come to naught, and anyone can go up to them and inspect them -

Of the interesting, but less significant monuments One can highlight the Zoroastrian temple of Ateshkade, located away from the city center. Outwardly, it is not particularly remarkable - just an elegant “mansion” with a fountain at the entrance. The faith of the Zoroastrians is interesting in itself, which you can get acquainted with in the adjacent museum.

Alexander's Prison is another interesting monument, which is an ancient building that was once a prison, even during the time of Alexander the Great (Macedonian). Nothing special. Another ancient courtyard, partially converted into a mosque.

There are two types of hotels in the city - traditional and ordinary. In the first case, you will live inside the most natural caravanserai in the Old City, where those same narrow streets lead. An ordinary hotel involves an uninteresting concrete box with corridors and many monotonous rooms. Moreover, there are not many hotels in Iranian cities in general, and the supply is barely keeping up with the growing demand. Therefore, in the same Yazd, the choice of a tourist will be limited to three “traditional” hotels in the old part of the city, and 5-7 hotels of the usual type. We stayed at the traditional “Melik O’Tojjar” (www.malek-o-tojar.com), which is a traditional style courtyard with rooms located around the perimeter. It should be noted that we got the last available room. And this despite the fact that no holiday was planned in Yazd. There is no overly natural chic here. The rooms are completely ordinary. The charm of this hotel lies precisely in its coloring as an ancient caravanserai. Double rooms there are 45 dollars per night, single rooms - 30 dollars. A little bargaining, within plus or minus 10%, is appropriate.

Now, since we are talking about Iranian hotels, I would like to add a few things in general. At the beginning of the story, I said that Iran is in many ways reminiscent of the Brezhnev USSR. So, artificial restrictions for a freely developing market also affect hotels. There aren't enough of them. Chronically. Imagine for yourself - are 10 hotels with, say, 500-700 hotel beds enough for the population of 600,000 Yazd? Definitely not. Even in normal times, the number of guests is very “borderline”, and it is possible that without prior reservation you will have to look for a place to stay for the night. What happens if you come on holidays? The situation is similar in many other cities, and this point should be taken into account when planning your trip. After Yazd, I will tell you about Shiraz, where we had to look for a place to stay for the night for half the night. Anything possible. There were no more options. But first things first.

The next day we took a tour around Yazd, including old City Meibod with its massive fortress, and the Zoroastrian temple of Chak-Chak. For this purpose, we asked taxi drivers how much it would cost to “rent” them for a full daylight hours. Two things became clear. First of all, not a single taxi driver spoke a word of English, and even the very attempt to explain that we wanted to visit several points and return back to Yazd was doomed to failure. We were still not entirely sure whether the taxi driver understood our wishes. A similar situation happened with other taxi drivers. Sadly. We returned to the hotel, where we asked how much it would cost to order a car through them? It turned out that it was $70 for the entire car for the day. At first glance, not much. I admit that if we had been able to negotiate with one of the taxi drivers, it would have turned out a little cheaper. But the language barrier was too debilitating.

I must say that we were very lucky with the driver. An extremely pleasant and intelligent guy. His English was extremely weak, but compared to taxi drivers, he could probably teach at an Iranian college.

During the day we visited many places, making about 8 stops along the way, and covering 350 kilometers. And yet the most vivid memory is the fortress in Maybod and old part cities. Here, as in Yazd, there are “cooling” towers, original adobe buildings, and the Naryn-Kala fortress towering above all this. We visited the postal museum, which you can skip by if you are short on time - there are too many tourist props. The same can be said about the pigeon tower; once local residents raised birds, and this was to fertilize the surrounding fields and for food. Now, instead of pigeons, there are an abundance of stuffed pigeons, rather strangely suspended on strings. Props.

The famous temple of fire worshipers Chak-Chak (translated as “drip-drip”) is worth visiting at least to get general impression about what Zoroastrianism is and what their temples are. The place is beautiful - deep canyon, mountains, desert.

The temple itself is quite ordinary, and with the exception of the small cave itself for storing fire, all the other buildings are quite new. The sign at the entrance smiled: “Women during menstruation are not allowed to enter.” I wonder who will check this?

Towards evening we decided that we would not take the plane to Shiraz as originally planned. And we will go to Shiraz by car, and along the way we will visit all the main attractions, including Pasargadae, Persepolis and several road forts and caravanserais that we will see along the way. A little haggling with our driver comes out to $90 for the whole car to Shiraz with all stops. Fits!

Yazd - Pasargadae - Persepolis - Shiraz (480km)

Most of the route is not particularly interesting. The steppe gives way to low passes, on the top of which there is still snow. There are few populated areas. But the road is excellent, making it possible to maintain a cruising speed of 100 km/h. There are an extremely large number of traffic police who, without hiding at all, are on duty with radars and mercilessly fine violators. Iranian drivers, like everywhere else in the world, have a very developed solidarity, and all oncoming cars desperately honk at you with their headlights, “Beware, cops!” The fine for speeding is small - 40 thousand rials, in other words, about 5 dollars. However, I strongly suspect that not everything is so simple. East is a delicate matter. It is possible that paying a fine means confiscating your driver’s license and then visiting the nearest regional center to present a receipt for paying the fine in order to get your license back. Of course, few people do this. And, perhaps, they are trying to negotiate with the police for a certain amount of bribe so as not to go to the regional center. It's banal to the point of funny.

Along the way, we stopped at a couple of ancient forts, which, apparently, controlled the strategically important road between the two major cities- Shiraz and Yazd. Forts are ordinary square-shaped fortresses with unchanged turrets at the corners. Inside, as a rule, it is either completely empty or capitalized local residents for storage However, from the outside these forts are quite attractive and worthy of a short stop. There is no entry fee.

Pasargade

Pasargade is an ancient city located 120 km north of Shiraz, and only 50 km from the famous Persepolis. This was once the palace of the Persian king Cyrus, and Cyrus was buried here. Currently, very little remains of Pasargadae. At about four scattered points there are traces of antiquity in the form of fallen columns, or the foundations of a powerful fortress. However, all these things will be much more relevant for professional archaeologists.

The main value of Pasargadae is the tomb of King Cyrus, located right at the entrance. As the guidebooks say, when Alexander the Great took Persepolis, he went to the grave of Cyrus, whom he had defeated, in Pasargadae. Alexander gave the order to one of his soldiers to enter the tomb.

There they found a golden bed of Cyrus, a golden table with golden cups, a golden coffin decorated with precious stones, and the inscription on the coffin read: “Stranger, I am Cyrus the Great, I gave to the Persians great empire and I ruled over Asia, so do not envy the luxury of my tomb.” It is noteworthy that in Farsi the name of the king sounds like “Kirush”, but actually “Kir” means nothing less than... a male member. Keep this in mind when asking directions to his tomb.

Persepolis is undoubtedly the pearl of Iran. This is a place worth visiting, even if your time in the country is extremely limited. But first I remembered a slightly different event associated with the name “Persepolis”. Namely, the scandal erupted due to Iranian protests regarding the screening at the Cannes Film Festival of the French cartoon “Persepolis,” which tells the story of the fate of an Iranian girl whose childhood fell during the Islamic revolution of 1979. According to Islamic clerics, this film distorts the values ​​of the Islamic revolution. Fortunately, Persepolis finally came out. Enough interesting thing- I strongly recommend it to everyone who is interested modern history Iran.

Returning to ancient Persepolis itself, it must be said that even in its current state it is impressive. From here all the Persian “thunderers” ruled the huge empire: Xerxes, Darius, Cyrus. Palaces ancient city they amaze with their scope, and this must be seen. I will not go into historical excursions, since this would be a retelling of the guidebook. The fact that Alexander the Great needed 3,000 camels to take out the treasures he looted in Persepolis speaks volumes. Not far from Persepolis are the impressive tombs of the kings, called “Nakhsh-e-Rustam” in Farsi, carved directly into steep cliffs, somewhat reminiscent of Jordanian Petra. I would like to emphasize that the tombs are located about 7 km west of Persepolis, and it is better to get there by passing transport if you come on your own. A visit to Persepolis costs only 5 thousand rials ($1), and the tombs cost 3 thousand rials. Almost for nothing.

I couldn't resist - here's a small selection of Iranian girls

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Yazd is considered one of the most vibrant and charismatic cities. It has the status of the administrative center of the province of the same name and is located in the center of the country, with a number of interesting attractions, including traditional oriental bazaars and wind towers - “badgir”. In addition, it is famous for its exquisite architecture and ample shopping opportunities, allowing shopping enthusiasts to satisfy their most desired needs.

Peculiarities

In terms of its structure and technological equipment, Yazd can be called a unique city. Modern buildings and wide boulevards are combined here with ancient houses, and the role of air conditioners is often played by the so-called “badgirs” - ventilation pipes that provide cooling of the air in houses. At the same time, the city has a well-developed infrastructure, high-tech communications are used, there are factories for the production of silk, which was used in great demand from foreign traders dating back to the time of Marco Polo, as well as educational, cultural and administrative institutions. Comfortable hotels with all amenities have been built for guests, transport connection, there are museums and picturesque parks where you can have a fun time getting acquainted with the traditions and history of Iran or walking around green alleys. The ethnic composition is represented by Persians, Kurds, Azerbaijanis and representatives of other nationalities. The main religion is Zoroastrianism.

general information

The area of ​​Yazd is small and amounts to several tens of square meters. km, with a population of over 500 thousand people. Local time is ahead of Moscow by half an hour in winter and 1.5 hours in summer. Time zone UTC+3:30 and UTC+4:30 in summer time of the year.

A brief excursion into history

The first mention of the city dates back to 3 thousand years before the beginning of our era, when it was called Isatis and belonged to the ancient eastern state of Media. Due to its geographical location, in the very heart of Iran, historically, Yazd was away from many wars and hardships that shook these lands, and in the most turbulent times, sciences and crafts flourished here, which have survived to this day. In ancient times, numerous dervish schools called “khanakas” existed in these places, and Yazd was considered the last stronghold of Persia. Meanwhile, Yazd was destroyed several times and also experienced many difficult periods. During the era of Genghis Khan, many outstanding poets, artists, and scientists hid in the city from persecution. In the Middle Ages, I visited here great traveler Marco Polo, who told in his stories about the wonderful silks that he saw in the local markets. Interestingly, the appearance of the old Yazd district has essentially not changed after hundreds of years, and according to UNESCO, it is one of the most unique architectural sites in the world.

Climate

The climatic conditions in the province are considered perhaps the driest in all of Iran. Precipitation is very rare here, so from time immemorial “grenades” were built in the region, which were underground channels for water. Now they have been replaced by reservoirs and wells supplied modern equipment. In the summer months, the heat in the city sometimes reaches +40 degrees, but in winter it can drop to zero or below. It is better to visit the provincial capital in early spring And late autumn, when it is warm and dry, but there is no sweltering heat.

How to get there

The best option for the route to Yazd is to fly to, and from there local airlines to the airport of the provincial capital. In addition, the city is connected by rail and bus services to other regions and settlements countries.

Transport

The most common means of transportation within the city limits are taxis, although the territory of the Old Town can be explored on foot.

Attractions and entertainment

The ancient district of Yazd is considered the main historical site here. The appearance of the overwhelming majority of buildings has not changed at all over the centuries, and their dark brown walls, made of sun-baked adobe bricks and the long-outdated designs of wind towers - “bagdirs” on the roofs of houses, serve as a kind of symbol of bygone eras. Climbing up, you can survey the city and see the endless desert landscapes surrounding it. Among the brightest architectural structures Yazd stands out for the Zoroastrian temple Atashkade, which is visited annually by representatives of this religion from all over the world. The temple's sacred fire, located in the central hall, has been maintained since 470.

Other religious attractions include the Great Friday Mosque with its library containing ancient manuscripts, and the Amir Chakhmagh Mosque, located directly opposite the Water Museum, where inquisitive tourists can learn a lot about the water supply system that operates here in different years and to this day. Also notable are the Assembly House, the Tower of Wind, the Mozaffar Garden, the Shamsia Madrasah, the Dovazdeh-Imam mausoleum and the soldiers' cemetery dedicated to the Iranians who died during the war with Iraq. Some distance from the city limits, in the middle of the desert, lies the ancient religious complex of Amir Chakmak, and not far from it are the Zoroastrian towers of silence of Dakmeh. There are several other archaeological complexes in the vicinity of the city, which can be reached by car or by excursion bus.

Kitchen

Many restaurants and cafes in Yazd are located in ancient buildings with rich history, therefore, staying in them is complemented by a feeling of the indescribable spirit of antiquity. One of them is the Hammam-e Khan restaurant, located in the premises of the old hammam. Vaulted ceilings, trickling water in the baths and elaborate wall ceramics add a dose of romanticism to the dining experience. Many establishments have very advantageous locations and have excellent views from their windows, directly on the main city attractions. Lovers of sweets should definitely check out the specialized confectionery on Jomhuriye Eslami Boulevard or Amiran Paludeh, where guests are invited to try delicious sherbet.

Shopping

The main places for shopping in Yazd are the bazaars of the Old City. Numerous counters display wonderful carpets that differ in more low prices compared to Tehran and popular tourist centers Iran, embossed and leather goods, all kinds of spices, sweets and souvenirs. The famous Yazd silks, from which scarves, bedspreads and all kinds of light clothing are woven, deserve special attention.

Yazd annually attracts thousands of travelers, captivating them with its oriental spontaneity, the beauty of its architecture, and its rich cultural and historical heritage. A stay in this city allows guests to appreciate many of its advantages and get to know this amazing country better.

Messages

• Airfare within Iran is relatively low, and there are airports in almost all Iranian cities. Iranian trains are comfortable, but railways there are relatively few in the country and tickets should be booked as early as possible. But the whole country is entangled in a network bus routes. Travel prices for intercity bus funny, and at the same time you will be provided with good service and the traffic schedule is usually also respected.
  Finally, you can simply rent a car with a driver for several hours, or even days - here the cost of services will depend solely on your bargaining ability.

  Within cities, public transport is not developed (although in Tehran you will find a very modern and convenient metro). It is best for a foreigner to stop a taxi on the street (every third car acts as a taxi, sometimes without any identification marks) and say the word “darbast” - in this case, the driver will not pick up other passengers along the way and will take you exactly to your destination . “Darbast” will cost more than a regular taxi (as much as 4 – 5 USD). If you want to save money, catch a car on the side of the road, shouting out the window of passing cars final destination destination (or rather, the square or street closest to it). A taxi, which can carry 4 passengers at a time, in this case plays the role of a minibus, going to a certain point and dropping off people as needed.

  Gregory

  Is it necessary to book tickets for intercity buses in advance? Or this can be simply and quickly resolved on the spot (not on Novruz, of course)

  I want to add. In the metro (in Tehran) there are separate carriages, separate for men and women. It's easy to see where people gather. And by taxi. Sometimes Iranian taxi drivers do not know the area where you need to go. It is better to print out the address at the hotel (in English) and ask the manager to translate it into Farsi. Then the driver will easily find the road and place. And then he’ll ask the locals... it’s funny we once circled around Ekbatan... :)

  Yes, you are absolutly right. When a whole family (a young husband and wife, two children and an elderly woman) entered our “men’s” 🙂 carriage, no one paid much attention. It’s an everyday matter... 🙂 And by the way, metro fares are very low.

  In Tehran there is a very convenient system of high-speed buses (BiArti). Moving along specially designated lanes, they rush past cars stuck in traffic jams. Very convenient, sometimes much faster than taking a taxi. Fast as the metro, but you can admire Tehran (so multifaceted !) from the window. True, during rush hours some routes are overcrowded.

  Gregory

  Explain the situation, whether there are direct buses Kashan-Hamedan and Isfahan-Hamedan. I would like to add a view of Hamedan and the Ali Sadr caves to the standard route Tehran-Kashan-Isfahan-Yazd-Shiraz. Maybe include something else at the same time. It is not clear how to do this optimally. Do not offer taxis.

  Georgiy

  Is it possible to buy a plane ticket from Tehran to Isfahan and vice versa on the day of departure or the day before?

  Nikolai

  Good afternoon, I have a question. I’m planning a trip to Armenia in the summer; I would also like to visit the legendary Tabriz and spend a few days on it. Is it possible to cross the border on foot in Meghri and take some kind of transport to get to Tabriz? Spend a few days in Tabriz and buy a bus ticket at the bus station to go to Yerevan. How is the bus service to Yerevan carried out, how often do the buses operate and approximately how much can they cost? Thank you in advance

  Good afternoon
  Is it possible to see the bus schedule in Iran? We plan to travel along the route Tehran-Isfahan, Isfahan-Shiraz, Shiraz-Yazd, Yazd-Tehran.
  In addition, you are interested in information about the fare payment system in public transport Tehran, as well as public transport that can be used to get from the airport to the city at night.
  Thanks in advance for your answer.

  Alexander

  Hello! Please tell me, is the current cost of tickets from Tabriz to Yerevan known?

  We are going to visit Iran, there are two options for flights, taking into account the fact that we want to fly there without luggage, and back, probably with luggage.

  1. Moscow - Tehran, Tehran - Moscow. Cons: they charge extra money for luggage, quite significant ones at that; flights with long layovers, if you don’t take into account Aeroflot flights, the cost of which is very high. Pros: everything is simple and clear.
  2. Moscow - Tehran, Yerevan - Moscow. Pros: Aeroflot flies from Yerevan, and flights are cheap, luggage is allowed. In general, tickets are significantly cheaper than in option 1. You can visit Tabriz along the way. Cons: additional time to travel to Tabriz and Yerevan (and there is not as much of it as we would like), it is unclear how much the bus to Yerevan costs. If it’s the same 25,000 drams per person, then the economic sense of flying from Yerevan is lost (however, the aesthetic one remains, although I’m not sure that there will still be strength left after Iran =)).

  Catherine

  Good day.
  Please tell me if there are buses (and how often) from Tehran to Rasht
  And from Rasht to Tabriz?
  And on airplanes. Is there a direct flight from Tabriz to Shiraz and if so, on what days?
  Thank you in advance

  Maksim

  Hello!
  Please tell me about the Kashan-Tehran buses,
  Kashan-Yazd, Shiraz-Isfahan. Schedule and travel time.

  Tatiana

  Can you recommend private transport companies in Tehran that provide a bus with a driver to transport a group of 15 people for several days?

  Good day! I'm flying to Tehran without a return ticket. I am planning to leave Iran by bus from Tabriz to Yerevan. How can I provide proof at the airport that I am leaving Iran through a third country. Is it possible to buy a ticket online?

  Good evening. We plan to travel around Iran by bus: Tehran-Isfahan-Yazd-Shiraz. But I would like to go back to Tehran by plane to save time. Tell me where to get information about which stations to leave, where to look up the flight schedule, and, if possible, make a booking. Thank you

  Thank you. I am interested in a specific date: I will need 2 tickets from Shiraz to Tehran for November 1, 2018, preferably in the afternoon or evening. Since the return ticket is on November 2 at 6 am, I think it’s better to return to Tehran on the eve. Please clarify how you can book tickets so that you can fly on November 1st with a 100% guarantee? For buses, I think there is no need to book in advance; you can already buy them on the spot. Thank you, I look forward to information from you.

Happiness to those who wish happiness to others. (Zarathustra)

Zoroastrianism. Sights of Yazd: Towers of Silence in Yazd, Ateshkadeh Fire Temple in Yazd, Chak Chak Fire Temple (Pire Sabz).

Strictly speaking, the main historical centers Zoroastrianism Iran has two – Yazd and Kerman. Although the largest Zoroastrian community is in Tehran, which is natural, since Tehran is the largest metropolis in Iran, and people are slowly migrating there. But Yazd is the second city in terms of the number of Zoroastrians, and in terms of percentage, probably the first - it is believed that there are about 5% of them in Yazd. And it is Yazd that is the generally recognized spiritual center of Zoroastrianism.

In general, there are not so many Zoroastrians left in Iran - according to various estimates, from 27 to 50 thousand. Therefore, the estimate of 5% for Yazd, with its population of 505,000, appears to be too high.

It is not known whether there was Zarathustra(aka Zoroaster- in Greek transcription), the prophet of Zoroastrianism, a real person, or a mythical one. It is also not reliably determined exactly when this religion arose, but the Zoroastrian tradition calls 1738 BC. e., and scientists are inclined to approximately the period 1000 - 754 BC. Until this time, Iranians supposedly practiced Vedism– the initial form of Hinduism, or sabeism- worship of the stars.

At first, the new religion “didn’t work” - in the first 10 years of preaching, Zarathustra managed to convert only his cousin. But then luck smiled at him - Zarathustra managed to interest King Kavi Vishtasp with his ideas, after which the process went quite briskly.

Zoroastrianism is, in fact, the modern name of this religion, formed from the name of its prophet, Zarathustra. Previously, the more commonly used name was “ Mazdaism", originating from the name of God the creator, Ahura Mazda. The Zoroastrians themselves call their religion “mazdayasna” - “veneration of Mazda”, or “wahvi-daena” - “good worldview”, and they call themselves “behdin” - “believers”.

The Zoroastrians also have one God - this is Ahura Mazda, the “Wise God,” the ideal creator of all things (also known as Ormuzd). However, in addition to Ahura Mazda, there are also Ameshaspents - six of his divine creations, each of which represents one of the stages of spiritual development and patronizes the corresponding earthly creatures of the Wise God - people, animals, fire, metals, earth, plants and water.

All the main principles of religion are encoded in faravahare- a symbol of Zoroastrianism.

Faravahar at the Ateshkadeh fire temple in Yazd

The winged solar disk itself was also depicted by the Egyptians and Assyrians above royalty to denote their glory. But the Zoroastrians complicated the symbol by introducing their own concepts into it. It must be said that there are quite a lot of interpretations of the symbols embedded in the faravahar.

A bearded man - wisdom, experience, striving for perfection and independence, allowing one to distinguish good from evil, given by Ahura Mazda to people; a raised hand points to the sky, recalling obligations to God;

The ring that a person holds is a “ring of agreement” - a reminder of the obligation to always keep promises (an option is a ring of reincarnation of the soul; however, the theme of reincarnation in Zoroastrianism does not have much development - the soul enters the body when it is still in the womb and leaves it after death, going to heaven (the house of Songs) or to hell; the fate of a person is determined by the struggle of good with evil, the concept of the “wheel of Samsara” - a series of rebirths of the soul in new material forms - is not in Zoroastrianism);

The disk in the middle of the image is eternity, a reminder of the cycle of the life path, which must be pious, so that after death the soul will forever find paradise;

Five rows of feathers on the wings (in the photo, however, there are three rows, not five) - the number of Gathas - hymns and prayers to God (option - stages of the soul’s advancement towards God);

Two “legs”/ribbons – the paths of good and evil;

The tail is the rudder, guiding towards good or evil;

Three rows of tail feathers are the triad of Zoroastrian religious ethics: “good thoughts, good words, good deeds.”

Historians, meanwhile, believe that these interpretations of Faravahar symbolism arose among the people in a relatively recent period, and have nothing to do with historical accuracy. For them, this is only a designation of royal glory and power bestowed by God, as well as the best part of the human soul, which belongs to God and leads a person to him, a prototype of guardian angels.

Angra Mainyu (Ahriman)- the evil opposite of Ahura Mazda, seeking to spoil his creations. Life represents the eternal struggle of good and harmony (represented by Asha, one of the created Ahura Mazda Ameshaspent) with evil - Druj. Accordingly, a believing Zoroastrian is obliged to contribute in every possible way to the victory of good, creating it to the best of his ability. And one day there will be a final battle in which Ahura Mazda will win. The souls of the dead from heaven and hell will again be called to judgment and pass through a stream of molten metal, which will be pleasant to the righteous and in which sinners will burn, after which an era of general prosperity will begin.

Zoroastrians have complex funeral traditions. The body of the deceased is desecrated by death. Only gravediggers can touch it - nasassalary, whose profession was inherited, and imposed serious restrictions on them. The dwellings of the Nasassalars were located on the outskirts, they had to live separately even from members of their own family, and were warned of their appearance by the ringing of special bells.

Since earth, water, fire and plants are sacred to Zoroastrians, there was a serious problem with the disposal of bodies. You cannot bury or burn it - this will desecrate the earth or fire. A unique solution was found. Special burial structures were built - astodans (Towers of Silence), lined with stone from the inside, excluding contact of dead flesh with the ground, with round platform roofs surrounded by high clay walls.

The Nasassalars carried the bodies on stretchers. Relatives accompanied the procession at some distance. Only Nasassalars were allowed to climb the Towers of Silence.

The description of the burial process looks creepy. On the inner roof-platform of the towers, the bodies were seated or stacked, after which they were left to be torn to pieces by scavenger birds. The stomachs of vultures contain a certain enzyme that kills decomposition products, which contributed to the disinfection of decomposing corpses. High walls protected against the possible removal of pieces of flesh (and, accordingly, desecration of the earth) by animals. There was a well in the center of the site. The circle closest to the well was intended for children's bodies. The middle one is for women, the far one is for men. The platform had a slight slope towards the center and gutters through which blood flowed into the well. When the bodies were gnawed down to the bones, the sun-dried remains were crushed, dumped through a well into a bone storage facility and covered with lime. When the tower was full, a new one was built.

At the beginning of the 20th century, many Zoroastrians began to consider the traditional burial rite obsolete. Cities have come close to the Towers of Silence, and the number of vultures has decreased significantly. In addition, in 1851, the first university, Dar ul-Funun, opened in Tehran. Medical students faced a problem: Islam prohibited unnecessarily dissecting the bodies of Muslims, which made learning difficult. For training purposes, bodies began to be stolen from the Towers of Silence. As a result, Tehran Zoroastrians organized a new cemetery 10 km from Tehran, where they began to bury the dead in graves lined with stone and reinforced with concrete boxes, preventing contact of flesh with the ground.

The more conservative Zoroastrian communities of Yazd and Kerman continued the traditional practice until the 1970s, when it was finally outlawed.

Indian Zoroastrians - Parsis (Persians who left for India at the beginning of the 18th century from persecution of Muslims) still continue to bury their dead in the Towers of Silence. Among the Parsis, they seem to be a little more complicated - the remains thrown into the ossuary, after being gradually crushed, are washed out by rainwater through special carbon filters into wells and further into the sea (in Mumbai). The Parsis have their own problems - the cities have also approached the towers, but for now this is being solved by the fact that in India the Towers of Silence are traditionally surrounded by protective belts of trees and bushes. The main problem is the catastrophic reduction in the number of scavengers by 99.9% as a result of the use in India in the 90s of the 20th century of diclofenac, an anti-inflammatory drug for livestock, banned only in 2006. The Parsis are now trying to breed scavengers, but in the meantime they are trying to dispose of bodies, increasing the impact on them solar energy by installing special mirrors.

In the morning, Fereshte picked me up at the hotel and we went to the Towers of Silence on the outskirts of Yazd. There are two of them in Yazd. Both are nearby.

At the foot of the towers there is a well and buildings where the funeral procession could stop and say goodbye to the deceased before his body was lifted into the tower.

At the foot of the towers of silence

A well with wind towers - badgirs for cooling water

The climb to the right tower doesn't seem too steep

Opens from the tower beautiful view to Yazd.

The inside of the Tower of Silence looks somewhat abandoned. A circular area where bodies were laid out for vultures to eat. In the middle there was a filled-in well, into which crushed bones, dried by the sun, were thrown.

A little creepy. Although, it would seem, what's the difference? The cemetery is just that, a cemetery. No one was killed here.

Yazd, Tower of Silence, buried well

It was hot. It seems that the height is not high, and the climb is not very difficult, but Fereshta felt unwell, and we agreed that she should return to the car. Sina will come for her, they will wait for me, then together we will take her home, and Sina will continue the tour.

Meanwhile, I climbed the neighboring tower, where excursions do not lead.

Tower of Silence, to which tourists are not taken

Climbing the second tower from the side of the complex of buildings at its foot is not very convenient, but the climb is not particularly difficult. Only closer to the top we had to climb over the walls - the passage was blocked with stones.

But the entrance to the tower itself is open.

The second tower offers even more picturesque views.

Tower of Silence, view of Yazd

Sina and Fereshte return to the car

Inside the second Tower of Silence.

From the second tower the first one is in full view.

I went down the path - it took longer, but it was more convenient.

Fire, being sacred to Zoroastrians, has important ritual significance, being one of the symbols of the piety of Ahura Mazda and the harmony and goodness of Asha. Zoroastrians believe that there are a large number different types fire: heavenly fire, fire from wood, fire of life in humans and animals, home fires of various members of the community - merchants, peasants, artisans, military men, priests, etc.

In honor of Ahura Mazda, over time, fire temples began to be built, which were small modest clay rooms with thick walls, plastered on the inside, with a dome resting on four columns and an altar with a brass bowl with an eternal fire in the recess of one of the walls, hidden from worshipers by a partition. There were, as a rule, no windows, since nothing should touch the sacred fire, not even the no less sacred sunlight, there was only an opening in the dome for ventilation. The priests performed sacred acts with fire, wearing special clothes, a cap, gloves, and a bandage covering the mouth so as not to defile it either by touch or by breathing.

It is believed that the largest number of such fire temples were built under the Sassanians, who actively promoted religion to strengthen their power in the late third century. Archaeologists, however, managed to find significantly more on the territory of Media. ancient temple fire, dating back to the 7th century BC, in which the fire from the main closed hall could be transferred to the flat roof for public viewing. It seems that in the village of Abyani there is a temple of just this type,

The fires also varied in their degree of holiness. The main fire, Atash Bahram (Victorious), was gradually assembled from 16 different types lights - from houses representing all social strata of the Zoroastrian community, and the main one, lit by lightning hitting a tree, which could have been waited for years. The fires of city temples were lit from Bakhram, the fires of rural temples were lit from city lights, and home fires were lit from rural fires (and many houses had separate rooms with a sacred fire burning in them).

The next fire in the hierarchy is Atash Adaran, collected from 4 types of fires from representatives of the four classes - priests, employees (military and officials), peasants (farmers and cattle breeders) and urban workers - artisans and workers. The procedure for its creation took 2-3 weeks.

Each type of fire can only burn in a temple that corresponds to it in hierarchy. Atash Bahram is only in the main temples, with a separate room for the fire, where only the highest representatives of the Zoroastrian clergy can enter. Atash Adaran - in the Houses of Fire (Atashkadeh), where he can be served by priests of a simpler rank - mobeds.

Once lit, the sacred fire should never go out, for this will mean the victory of the forces of darkness. Special priests support the combustion by adding pieces of almond, apricot and sandalwood trees. Each fire required over time a special procedure of renewal and purification. Each king was entitled to his own fire, as one of the symbols of status.

After the defeat of the Sassanid Empire by the Arabs in 651 in Islamized Persia, the Ostrians had a rather difficult time. At the beginning of the 8th century, a significant part of them went to India, where they were received favorably. In India, the Zoroastrians settled in rather isolated communities, mainly in Bombay, becoming known as "Parsis". Thanks to the favorable environment, the number of Parsi Ostrians is currently estimated at approximately 100,000 people, which is 2-4 times more than the followers of this faith in its homeland, Iran. Parsis are superior to average Hindus in terms of education and wealth. Despite their relative small numbers, they made major contributions to Indian history: it was the Parsis who founded India's first political party, public hospital, printing press and newspaper, university and stock exchange.

The next heyday of Zoroastrianism in Iran occurred in 1925-1941, the era of the power of Reza Shah Pahlavi, who relied on the popularization of the ancient religion to strengthen his power, promote secular reforms, and weaken the authority of Islamic imams. Zoroastrians received equal rights with Muslims, Shiite symbols were deliberately supplanted by Zoroastrian symbols, the study of the pre-Islamic history of Persia was welcomed, the doctrine and philosophy of Zoroastrianism began to be taught at the university - Zoroastrianism became fashionable. Ties with the Indian Parsis strengthened, and they provided serious assistance to their brothers in faith.

So, it was with the funds of the Parsis that the Atashkadeh fire temple in Yazd. Strictly speaking, as I wrote above, Atashkadekh is not so much the proper name of the temple as its type - “House of Fire”, a type of temple in which the fire of the second level burns, Atash Adaran, assembled from 4 other fires. Atashkadeh looks modest, as befits a fire temple. In front of the temple is a small clean courtyard with a swimming pool and a garden.

Coins are traditionally thrown into the pool

The bowl with fire, continuously burning since 467, and brought to Yazd from Erdekan, the second largest city in the ostan (province) of Yazd, is separated from visitors by thick glass (so as not to be accidentally desecrated). The interior is simple: a painting of Zarathustra and several explanatory texts regarding the temple itself, as well as the values ​​and symbols of Zoroastrianism.

The simple interior of the Ateshkadeh Fire Temple

The sacred fire of the Ateshkadeh temple, hidden behind protective glass (to prevent desecration)

Text explaining the symbolism of the Faravahar

Until the beginning of the 20th century, Muslims used to contemptuously call Zoroastrians “Gebras” (infidels) and “fire worshipers” (hinting, again, at their supposed paganism), which is terribly insulting to Zoroastrians - they do not worship fire, fire is only a symbol of Ahura Mazda, the only God , just like the cross is a symbol of Christianity, and the crescent is a symbol of Islam.

A text explaining that Zoroastrians do not worship fire, but worship Ahura Mazda, whose symbol is fire, and telling the long history of the life of the fire of the temple.

Next to the temple there is a small museum telling about the life of the Zoroastrian community.

Museum of the Zoroastrian Community

The position of women in Zoroastrian society was freer than in Muslim society. She had significantly more rights; theoretically, a woman could even become a priest - mobbed. However, there were, of course, a number of restrictions. Thus, during menstruation, a woman was considered unclean and should not be near her loved ones until it ended and the purification ceremony was performed. Zoroastrian women did not cover their faces (although in Kerman, when going out “in public,” they preferred to follow Islamic customs so as not to run into trouble; in Yazd they didn’t bother with this).

This is not visible in the photo, under outer clothing for a Zoroastrian (both men and women) must be worn sedre- a white (also a symbol of the purity of Ahura Mazda) undershirt, sewn in a special way from one single piece of fabric (usually cotton; there is a list of permitted fabrics) with 9 seams, which, in turn, symbolize the 9 elements of a person - life itself, appearance, body , bones, strength, breath, consciousness, soul and faravashi - personal guardian spirit. Tied on the sedre koshti– a finger-thick white woolen belt of 72 threads (according to the number of Yasna chapters in the Avesta, a collection of sacred Zoroastrian hymns), tied with 6 knots (according to the number of main holidays), symbolizing adherence to the precepts of Ahura Mazda. The knots are tied several times daily, which is accompanied by the reading of a prayer and is a symbol of familiarization with the unity and good deeds of all Zoroastrians.

Another important Zoroastrian shrine is Temple of Pire Sabz or Chak Chak, located in the mountains 72 km from Yazd. According to legend, in 640, Princess Nikbanu, one of the daughters of the last Persian king from the Sassanid dynasty, pursued by the Arabs, turned to Ahura Mazda with a prayer for help, and the mountain miraculously opened up, letting her in and hiding her from her pursuers. The Arabs besieged the mountain. The princess suffered from headache and thirst. She saved herself from thirst by hitting the floor of the cave with her staff, causing water to drip from the ceiling. But the story still ended sadly - not wanting to surrender to the enemy, the princess threw herself off the cliff. Since then the mountain has been mourning her with tears from inexhaustible source(Chak-Chak is translated from Farsi as Kap-Kap). And in the cave that sheltered the princess they made a temple, where hundreds of Zoroastrian pilgrims come in June, for whom they were built on the slope guest houses, at other times empty.

The road to Chak-Chak passes through a picturesque desert

Zoroastrian tradition requires pilgrims coming to the temple by car to stop as soon as they see the temple and continue on foot.

But we are not pilgrims, we are allowed to get there.

There is a fairly flat staircase leading to the temple.

Guest houses

Entrance to the temple of Pire-Sabz (Chak-Chak). According to legend, the tree at the entrance grew from the princess's staff.

On the doors of the Chak-Chak temple there is an image of Zarathustra

In fact, the grotto is man-made. In the middle there is a fire altar.

“The tears of the mountain for the princess” flow into carefully placed plastic baths.

According to the hierarchy of fires, Pire-Sabz (Chak-Chak) is also Atashkadeh - House of Fire

Modest decoration of the temple

Nearby is a room for pilgrims

More photos can be seen at.

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The city was once an esoteric center, a place where mystics and gnostics gathered, and to this day 5-10% of the population are Zoroastrians - an ancient fire-worshipping religion that originated in Iran. When Islam became the state religion of the Persian state, the Zoroastrians of Yazd managed to resist forced conversion by regularly paying taxes. In Atashkad (“Tower of Fire”) the flame has not gone out since 470 - for more than 1530 years! Here, on the outskirts of the city, is located Dakhme, or Kale-e Hamusha (“Tower of Silence”), where the dead are buried according to Zoroastrian rites.

Yazd is known for the world's largest network of "qanats" - this ancient system well mines invented in Iran, it gradually spread to the desert cities of other areas and is still used today. Many houses are equipped with bad-gir wind towers (for passive ventilation), and yakhchals serve as a kind of primitive refrigerator. Almost all houses are built of adobe - unfired bricks made of sand, clay, straw and dung.

The city has stunning examples of Islamic buildings and medieval city walls.

The region has a desert climate - very hot during the day and extremely cold at night. The trees bloom in early spring.

Do not miss

• Jameh Mosque XIV century.
• Amir Chakhmak Mosque XIV century. Yazd Museum.
• Funeral mosque Mahbare-e Davazda Imam (“Shrine of the Twelve Imams”) - XII century.
• Mausoleum of Sayed Ron ad-Din.
• Bag-e Dovlat is a wonderful house with stained glass windows and a garden.
• Alexander's Dungeon.
• Chak Chak is an important Zoroastrian temple 52 km from Yazd.

Should know

Yazd is famous for its silk weaving, ceramics and sweets. Yazd bazaars, perhaps - the best place in Iran to purchase silks, cashmere and brocade.

 

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