Weather in Georgia by month with photos. When is the best time to go to Georgia? Why do we spend autumn in Georgia? To Georgia in late autumn by car

The parents wanted to the Velvet season″to Georgia. Our choice was Batumi. They were there back in Soviet times. Much has changed since then. The resort is simply beautiful. The weather was calm and almost windless all the time. In all likelihood, there are mountains nearby. The sea is clean, but not very warm. You can't stay in the water for long. The beach and sea are strewn with pebbles. The water in the sea is the cleanest. At first, it’s somehow unusual to walk on such stones, it’s not comfortable for your feet, but over time you get used to it and even the massage for the heels is very good. At one time there were a lot of jellyfish, but on the second day they swam away and we were able to enjoy ourselves again clear sea. There are not many vacationers at this time and you can soak up the sun anywhere. Many amenities have been created for vacationers. I would certainly like more young people on the beach and it would be hotter. But my parents really liked it, and that was my main task.

Every year we go to Georgia with our whole families, over all these years we have come to the conclusion that the best time is the first two weeks of September. When everywhere, especially in Moscow, it’s already starting to rain and it’s a little cold in the evenings, in Ureki the weather is simply amazing, the water is warm, and most importantly, since it’s already the end of the season, there aren’t enough people. It’s hot during the day, even after 13:00 the sun burns, so we went to the beach in the morning and swam in the pool in the afternoon. On average the temperature is +28, +30, and in the evenings +18. I always take jackets for the children to wear during evening walks, but in all 5 years they were needed only in 2016.

This year I vacationed in Batumi with my husband. The vacation fell at the end of September. The weather was warm every other day. There were cool days. Only the most courageous swam in the sea. Mostly, these were “northerners”. September in Batumi is more conducive to leisurely walks and excursions. I really liked the Botanical Garden. The city is a little bustling, in the center, generally noisy. The prices are not cheap. But overall we had a good rest and gained some impressions.

It was not by chance that we chose mid-September for our vacation; there are minimal people on the coast! Just what a young couple needs! Starting from September 15, the weather was super, every day at lunch it was hot, you could get sunburned and even burn. But in the morning and evening a cool wind was already blowing from the sea and it was perfect for walks on the coast! We went for 2 weeks, so here we go last days 3 the weather turned bad and it started raining... and it even got colder, it was barely 20 degrees! In 2015, unfortunately, our trip didn’t work out, but in 2017, God willing, we decided to go at the very beginning of September!

If the question is whether or not to go to Tbilisi in the fall, then the answer is unequivocal: yes! Of course, go, especially if you manage to get to the capital of Georgia in September or October. At this time, even nature favors a very different, but definitely pleasant rest.

The weather, which is more refreshing than in summer, makes it possible to see all the sights of the city: get aesthetic pleasure from visiting museums, replenish your knowledge about historical places Georgia, see ancient temples and basilicas. Walking along the streets of Tbilisi in autumn, there is no need to hide from the summer heat by looking for shady islands.

A big plus for traveling through the real golden Georgian autumn will be cultural events. A photo festival is held in the capital in September, and the Festival will present in October documentaries, and will also delight avid theatergoers with new products.

In mid-autumn, the GIFT International Theater Festival starts in Tbilisi, which brings together famous actors and entire groups from different countries Europe, USA, Russia. Starting in mid-October, the festival ends only at the end of November - its program is so extensive and intense.

Autumn is the most Big city countries embrace almost the largest and most massive festivities. In October, the Tbilisoba holiday is celebrated here, the days of which are necessarily weekends. Tbilisoba is the Day of the City of Tbilisi and, in combination, a holiday dedicated to the harvest. There is a reason for fun, just as there is something to put on the table, something to surprise and treat: local wines, national cuisine - everything is very tasty and unusual. As a “dessert”, entertainment is served to guests and residents of the city: colorful processions, concerts, craft fairs in the spirit of antiquity and much more.

It seems like all my friends have already visited Tbilisi. Many several times, in winter and summer. Because this city, like a magic box, reveals its secrets not the first or even the second time. Ideally, you should come to Tbilisi once a season to gain inspiration here, go to the newly opened Opera and meet new people. People are the main wealth of Tbilisi and Georgia as a whole. But you will get to know them yourself, and I will tell you about everyday little things and give you a few practical advice.

How to get there

There are almost 2,000 kilometers between Moscow and Tbilisi, and each traveler decides for himself how to overcome them. Luckily, there are several ways to get to Tbilisi.

By plane

The easiest way is to fly directly to Tbilisi, to international Airport named after Shota Rustaveli(this is a popularly beloved Georgian poet of the 12th century, author of the poem “The Knight in the Tiger’s Skin”). It is small, but now it is being actively expanded: the flow of tourists to Georgia is growing every year.

Direct flights

Flights with transfers:

How to get from Tbilisi airport to the city center

The airport is located 20 km from the city. You can get to the Center by taxi (10 USD/20 GEL) or by bus for only 0.20 USD (0.5 GEL).

The bus, which is important, passes the very center of Tbilisi (for example, Rustaveli metro station).

By bus

If you have a lot of free time and want to see the South of Russia, then you can easily go to Georgia by bus.

From Moscow

Travel time from Moscow (buses depart daily from the Shchelkovsky bus station, from the Domodedovskaya and "Domodedovskaya" metro stations Teply Stan") about 30 hours, ticket price - 55 USD (3,500 RUB). Buses go from Moscow to Tbilisi different companies, choose the one whose transport departs from the location closest to you. Traveling can be comfortable if you stock up on books, films and good music: this is how to admire beautiful scenery it will become even more enjoyable. However, the most Beautiful places will begin just after crossing the Georgian border. Buses from the companies “STM”, “Panther”, and “ArmTour” travel along this route.

Buses going to : all of them must pass through Tbilisi, there is no other road. From Moscow they start daily from the outside 23 kilometers of the Moscow Ring Road, flights are operated by the UMI company.

From Saint-Petersburg

From here (buses start twice a day from the Kupchino metro station), the trip to Georgia will take longer (about 45 hours) and will cost more - 75 USD (4,500 RUB). Add to this the cost of food and drinks that you will buy for more than a day of travel.

I don’t recommend traveling by bus in the summer season: there can be huge traffic jams at the border (as was the case in the summer of 2016), and the bus will stand in a general queue. But you can always leave it and get into one of the first cars in the queue: during several similar border crossings in Upper Lars, I did not have a case where someone refused. Bad news: you can't cross the border on foot. The good news is you can do it on a bike.

From Tbilisi bus station to the city center

Buses arrive in Tbilisi at:

• Didube bus station(it is located next to the metro station of the same name, from here the most convenient way to get to the center is directly by metro);
• on Ortachala bus station(located in the southeast of Tbilisi, there is no metro there, but there are minibuses that travel throughout the city).

By car

You can get from Russia to Georgia by car in the same way as by bus - through the Verkhniy Lars border checkpoint.

Travel time from Moscow will be approximately 24 hours if you drive non-stop.

The same journey from St. Petersburg will take about 34 hours, covering almost 2,700 kilometers.

Car insurance and an international driver's license are not required.

Expenses

Toll roads no, and this is another plus for deciding to travel around Georgia by car. Gas stations in Georgia there is a lot, and refueling the car is not a problem, but if you plan to climb into remote mountainous regions (Racha, Tusheti), then you must definitely stock up on fuel: there will be nowhere to refuel in such places. The quality of fuel in Georgia is divided into regular (low quality, price per liter - 0.70 USD/1.95 GEL), premium (good quality, price - 0.80 USD/2.19 GEL) and super ( top quality, cost per liter - 0.87 USD/2.35 GEL).

Clue:

Tbilisi - the time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow − 1

Kazan − 1

Samara 0

Ekaterinburg 1

Novosibirsk 3

Vladivostok 6

When is the season? When is the best time to go

It's always high season in Tbilisi. I'm serious. There is no such thing as bad weather, just uncomfortable clothes. Therefore, just keep in mind that in the summer it is hellishly hot here, and in the winter, even at zero temperatures it can be wildly cold, pick up normal clothes and go to Tbilisi. Moreover, the sun, which is so necessary for the inhabitants of our northern latitudes, shines here more than 60% of the time of the year.

Tbilisi in summer

Summer, hot Georgian summer. Remember, in Moscow a couple of years ago there was forty-degree heat? Add another ten degrees to what it feels like, and you’re in summer Tbilisi. You should not expect relief from rains: they are quite rare in Tbilisi in summer. Of course, in summer in Georgia it is better to go to mountainous areas, build trekking routes or lie on the shore of the Black Sea somewhere under the pine trees of Kobuleti.

But if fate has given you a couple of days in summer Tbilisi, follow these simple tips:

• do not be afraid drink tap water. In any cafe, in any square, at a train station, or anywhere, the water in Tbilisi is drinkable. There are drinking fountains on the streets of the city, and there is nothing more convenient than this idea.
• dress normally. At first I didn't wear shorts or skirts that were too short. Of course, it’s more comfortable to ride minibuses in jeans. But for a walk around the city, you can choose more revealing clothes. - a secular country, and the girls here sometimes dress amazingly. However, I was never able to get used to the constant male gaze. An excellent option would be a midi-length skirt made of natural fabric. Next summer in Tbilisi I will dress exactly like this.

• Pvisit Mount Mtatsminda, go to Ethnographical museum under open air or to Turtle Lake (especially in the summer, all of Tbilisi will be there), in a word, away from the city center. It will be cooler at higher elevations, and away from the city with its cars and hot asphalt, the heat will not be so oppressive.

Tbilisi in autumn

Autumn is a fertile time in all respects. The grape harvest has been harvested, the theater season is open, the heat has subsided, residents have returned to the city from the coast, life is in full swing.

In September it is still quite summer in Tbilisi. Warm days, when the air temperature warms up to +20 °C, can last until the beginning of November. In October, the city gradually turns yellow, and the weather becomes ideal for walking in the Tiflis hills. Perhaps the best time to travel to Tbilisi is autumn.

Tbilisi in spring

Spring, a real normal spring, begins in March and lasts until mid-May. Then the heat will come and the city will melt, but for now it’s time for leisurely walks around Tbilisi.

It can rain at this time of year, so don't forget an umbrella and waterproof shoes. It may be worth planning a visit to Tbilisi's museums, galleries and interesting, authentic cafes so that wet weather doesn't ruin your trip. The air temperature will be around +15–20 °C, which, in contrast to spring in central Russia, will inspire and delight even more. And the first strawberries will definitely appear in the markets at the beginning of May.

Tbilisi in winter

Winter in Tbilisi is quite mild and warm (compared to Moscow), the temperature rarely drops below 0 °C. Snow rarely falls and usually melts quickly. During the day the air can warm up to +10 °C! But divide this indicator by two: the cold in Tbilisi is somehow all-pervasive, and temperature is the last thing you need to focus on. In the sun in calm weather, yes, you can take off your scarf. But in the evening it will be cold somewhere on Mtatsminda or the Kura embankment.

However, there are no severe frosts here: while walking around the city, note that the drainpipes are located on the outside of the house (just like in southern Italy). If frosts were not uncommon in Tbilisi, city residents would quickly be left without water supply. In general, winter in Tbilisi is wonderful, dress as for Moscow -5 ° C, drink wine and chacha, warm yourself in dukhans, and you will be happy.

Important: There is no central heating in Georgia, and everyone warms up as best they can. Basically, everyone installs boilers (electric heaters). But before booking accommodation in Tbilisi, it is better to check whether the apartment/room will be warm.

Tbilisi - weather by month

Clue:

Tbilisi - weather by month

Districts. Where is the best place to live?

There are 10 main districts in Tbilisi, but it is best to live in several of them: some benefit from their location, others from their atmosphere.

I made up short review districts of the city, and in the section below you will find housing prices in Tbilisi.

Old city

It seems most obvious to settle in the Old Town: it is close to all the main attractions, there are narrow colorful streets and the atmosphere of Old Tiflis. But don’t forget that there are also crowds of tourists and cars that cannot pass through these very narrow streets.

I think it's not best area Tbilisi for living (too crowded), although here you can find accommodation for around 10 USD (20 GEL) per person per day (this is the normal price in the city). However, if it is important for you to be at the epicenter of events, choose the Old Town, especially since there are cozy mini-hotels and guest houses, where you will have a room with shared amenities. You can search for guesthouses in this area, for example.

Avlabari

The area is across the river from the Old Town and is good if you plan to go to service every morning at Sameba, Georgia's main cathedral. Here you can also sip on national flavor. The area will especially appeal to those travelers who love hiking and terrain, as it is located on a hill. Luckily, there is the Avlabari metro station and countless minibuses in case you get tired of walking up and down.

Avlabari is home to many small hotels with 30 rooms (including so-called boutique hotels), and given the hilly terrain of the area, it will be great to stay in a room with a view of Tbilisi. It’s convenient to book hotels on, and you can compare prices from different services for finding accommodation.

Chugureti

I love this area dearly and strongly recommend it to all my friends. It is located next to the previous district and the Marjanishvili metro station and has everything that travelers love Tbilisi so much for: carved balconies, noisy courtyards full of life, vines in the most unexpected places.

In Chugureti, it is best to stay in a small hostel or guest house: this way you can more acutely feel the atmosphere of old Tiflis, although you can also find four-room apartments with a dizzying view.

In the fall of 2016, part of David Agmashenebeli Avenue (in translation this is just David the Builder, one of the kings of Georgia) was restored, houses and balconies were painted, the road was paved with tiles, futuristic benches were installed and European cafes were opened. It’s beautiful, but the flavor of old Tbilisi seems to be disappearing irrevocably. That’s why, even if you don’t live here, take a walk in Chugureti. I am sure you will love this area, especially since it is a 15-minute walk from Rustaveli Avenue (the main artery of the city).

Vake

The area of ​​the creative elite of Tiflis is still considered the most prestigious area of ​​the city. Now there is active construction going on here, high-rise buildings are going up. You can rent an apartment in one of these new buildings, or you can find a room in a small private hotel. And if you’re lucky, then a room in a guesthouse in one of the good “Stalinist” houses. There is no metro in Vake, and why does the elite need it? There is the beautiful avenue of Ilya Chavchavadze (poet, publicist and national figure of Georgia in the 19th century), strewn with boutiques, restaurants, universities, and the Vake Park with a memorial of glory. There is a stadium nearby.

Next to the park, at the top of the ridge, is Turtle Lake, beloved by Tbilisi residents. A cable car leads from Chavchavadze Avenue to the lake. The area is great for a short walk, but living here is inconvenient: far from the center.

Sololaki

Sololaki - which will also soon become different - is the heart of Tbilisi, not always clean and tidy, but so warm and sincere. Old streets, houses rickety from time to time, picturesquely hung laundry on lines - ordinary city life, plunging into which you feel: Tbilisi has firmly captured your heart. At least that's how it was for me.

Most guesthouses, hostels and other inexpensive accommodation facilities are concentrated here: everyone who has the opportunity to rent out an apartment in Georgia or convert it into a hostel is willing to do so. Although in Sololaki you can find spacious apartments and feel like a real Tbilisi resident. You can search for options.

Area near the railway station

This area is suitable for those planning to travel by train. There is also a metro station here.

Once I arrived in Tbilisi by night train from, and it was very convenient to stay in a small hotel located right in the station building on the top floor. The windows of the rooms overlook the courtyard, and the station noise does not bother you at all. However, I stayed there on hot days when the windows were closed and the air conditioning saved the situation. The hotel balcony offers views of Mount Mtatsminda; nearby there is a market, popularly known as “Deserter”, where you can buy fruits, vegetables, and churchkhela.

What are the prices for holidays?

What I love Georgia even more for is its relative cheapness. Now the exchange rate of the Georgian lari is falling, and traveling to Georgia has become even cheaper. In Tbilisi you can find a wonderful private room in a guesthouse for 15 USD (30 GEL).

You can have lunch together with wine in the city for 10 USD (20 GEL), or take a taxi ride around the city for 2.5 USD (5 GEL). A large khachapuri in the shop costs no more than 1 USD (2 GEL), and that was enough for me until lunch. One trip by metro - 0.25 USD (0.5 GEL). Train ticket to the sea - 15 USD (30 GEL).

When telling friends about traveling around Georgia, I always say that the main thing is to get there cheaply, and you won’t be lost on the spot. Hitchhiking in the country is excellent, so you can save on transport.

If you are a girl, then be prepared for constant invitations to dine: you will definitely be treated to food, hospitality is in the blood of Georgians.

Clue:

Cost of food, accommodation, transportation and other things

Currency: Euro, € US Dollar, $ Russian Ruble, Rub Lari, GEL

Main attractions. What to see

I would divide the sights of Tbilisi into ancient and modern. The ancient ones include a myriad of churches, fortresses, bathhouses and again churches, and the modern ones are those that were built in the early 2000s under Mikheil Saakashvili and were initially perceived with skepticism by the townspeople.

If you really want, you can see the most significant places Tbilisi in one day and half a night. But at the same time, you can (and should) return to this city, each time discovering a dozen new places.

Top 5

Tbilisi is a city that is incredibly diverse. He knows how to adapt to each traveler, showing him the most interesting things. Do you like painting? National Gallery and house-museums of Georgian artists are open to you. Do you like wandering around new cities, getting into their soul? Tbilisi, with its narrow ancient streets and wide front avenues, is ideal here too. This list does not consist of the most popular places, but places where you can discover new things in the city and, more importantly, in yourself.

Churches and temples. Which ones are worth visiting?

There are dozens of churches and temples in Tbilisi. They immediately attract attention with their architecture: discreet, made of simple natural-colored stone, without shiny domes and quite modest inside, they are strikingly different from the Orthodox churches we are used to (although Georgian churches are Orthodox!) There is also a mosque and a synagogue in the city.

Metekhi Temple

From Meydani Square, cross the Metekhi Bridge to the other side of the Kura River. From the bridge, by the way, there is a wonderful view of the already known Peace Bridge. On the right on the rock rises the Metekhi Temple, which in its history has been a castle, a royal prison and, finally, a temple. In 1937, it was almost demolished in accordance with the project of Lavrentiy Beria, but the Tbilisi artist Dmitry Shevardnadze opposed it, and the temple, surprisingly, was left. And the artist, alas, was shot. There is a monument next to the temple Vakhtangu Gorgasali, the founder of the city.

You can enter the temple every day from 9:00 to 17:00 completely free of charge.

If you go up, then in 20-30 minutes you will come to a giant temple, which can be seen from almost anywhere in the city, the Sameba Church.

Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (Tsminda Sameba)

It was built with private donations and opened in 2002. Now the Cathedral is the main cathedral Georgia. Several icons were painted by the current Patriarch of the country, Ilia the Second.

The place is powerful both in its energy and in appearance: Sameba can be seen from almost anywhere in the city, and at night its golden dome illuminates, it seems, half of the area. The temple is open daily from 8 am to 8 pm and admission is free.

Catholic Church

There is also a Catholic Church of Saints and Paul in Tbilisi on Javakhishvili Street, consecrated in 1877. Open to visitors every day from 9:00 to 19:00, admission is free.

Russian church

If you still miss temples with shining domes, then go to the Vera (or Vere) district, named after the river of the same name. Among the attractions here is the snow-white Church of St. John the Evangelist in the Suzdal style, which seems somewhat foreign after seeing dozens of strict Georgian churches.

The church is open daily from 9:00 to 19:00, admission is free.

Museums. Which ones are worth visiting?

There are several dozen museums in Tbilisi, and every traveler will find something to their liking. Art galleries with paintings by Georgian avant-garde artists, memorial apartments, open-air museums and the Museum of Modern Art, opened by Zurab Tsereteli. It is impossible to embrace Tbilisi in one visit, so for starters, the following places will be enough for you to get your idea about it southern city:

Parks

Tbilisi - quite green City: here and there small squares and parks with life-saving drinking fountains and bright flowers appear. In a city where it is scorching hot for a third of the year, it is necessary to know such places.

By the way, the Georgian writer Archil Sulakauri has a book “Chuguret Stories”, where the author talks about his youth, spent on the banks of the Kura River in the company of fishermen. The book is written in a slightly naive language, but it will definitely appeal to those who want to learn more about how they lived in Tbilisi at the beginning of the 20th century in this area.

Tourist streets

There are not many of them in Tbilisi, I will name the three most popular:

What to see in 1 day

Let's imagine that you find yourself passing through the capital of Georgia, and you have only one day to get acquainted with ancient Tiflis. I propose to build the route as follows. Of course, it is impossible to live in Tbilisi according to a strict plan, so my route is just a light sketch of a picture that every traveler will draw for himself.

What to see in the area

I’m not sure that Tbilisi can get boring, but if you want to unwind and take a break from the hustle and bustle of the capital, there are several pleasant one-day routes:

Food. What to try

Tbilisi does not have its own specialty and gastronomic symbol, like, for example, Adjarian-style khachapuri in Adjara, khinkali in Pasanauri or a bottle of Borjomi in the town of the same name.

Tbilisi, as befits a capital, has absorbed all the joys and sorrows of Georgian cuisine and even re-melted them in some places in a European manner. I will tell you about several establishments in Tbilisi where you should go either for the real Georgian spirit or for national food in a calmer, familiar version in the section below.

But a little about food. If I consider khinkali, khachapuri and vegetable salads the best food on earth, then I have no great love for Georgian sweets, although I adore churchkhela and dried persimmon (chiri). In general, almost all Georgian desserts are prepared using the two main gastronomic pillars of this country: grapes and nuts.

Well-fed Tbilisi is full of cafes and restaurants, and this can confuse the traveler. Universal advice: go where there are a lot of locals, they will probably serve real Georgian cuisine. Or read our advice. :) Let's start with something sweet.

"Funicular"

The best desserts (in my opinion and others) in Tbilisi are served on Mount Mtatsminda. There is a Funicular restaurant with a pastry shop on the ground floor.

Under a long display case all kinds of sweets are displayed, but the main characters of the establishment are the donuts: huge, hot, with beige cream inside, priced at 0.5 USD/1 GEL per piece. Combined with a cup of coffee and a view of Tbilisi they create a feeling of happiness!

"Dukani"

In addition to the places I visited personally, I found one more for you: the Dukani cafe on Lagidze Street. I won’t warmly recommend it, but the description and reviews tell me that the place is wonderful. Firstly, it has a wonderful location: on the left side of the Opera, a stone's throw from Rustaveli Avenue. Secondly, it is clear that the interior of “Dukani” was made with love.

The menu includes Georgian cuisine: everyone really praises khinkali and shish kebab, as well as draft beer and chacha. And yes, they serve chashushuli made from vegetables, although it is usually made from beef. Lunch for two will cost 13 USD/35 GEL.

Budget

Mid-level

Cafe-garden - not every city can boast of such a place. But in Tbilisi almost everything is possible!

Cafe Gardenia Shevardnadze represents Garden of Eden, not less! The founder of this place studied botany in Germany for fifteen years.

Rare varieties of roses, wicker tables, vintage details and a simple menu: bread, cheese, wine, pies, sweets. Come here to wander along the gravel paths, try excellent homemade muffins or even chacha.

Expensive

Cafe "Pur Pur" very atmospheric and cute. Compared to Moscow cafes, it is not that expensive, but for Tbilisi the prices are quite high.

It is located on Lado Gudiashvili Square and has a beautiful balcony in the crown of a tree. It’s worth going there at least for the interior: mirrors, antique candlesticks, wooden chests of drawers, chandeliers and a bunch of small things. Prices in the establishment are much higher than the city average: for example, a glass of wine costs the same as a liter at Racha: 3 USD (6 GEL). Food for those who want to try Georgian cuisine with a European touch.

Holidays

The most important holiday in the life of Tbilisi is Tbilisoba, which is traditionally held at the end of October (by the way, since 1979). The main characters of Tbilisoba are Tbilisi and the harvest, which by this time ends, which means the time for Georgian revelry has come.

Tbilisoba is a kind of City Day. Fairs and fashion markets open, competitions are held, master classes on national Georgian crafts, music plays, everyone walks around happy and enjoys the city, and some also dance some kind of kintauri, for example. The smell of barbecue flows in a thin stream throughout Sololaki, and dry red wine flows from the fountains on this day (just kidding). By the way, Tbilisoba is held even in Moscow (and there is always a stir there) and other post-Soviet cities. Residents of other regions (Kakheti, Racha, Adjara) come to Tbilisi to sell their goods and farm products.

If you find yourself in Tbilisi during Tbilisoba, consider yourself lucky. This is a wonderful opportunity to get acquainted with the life and cultural traditions Georgia without leaving the capital.

Otherwise, Georgian holidays are similar to our Russian ones: New Year, Christmas, Easter, March 8. However, religious holidays in Georgia are celebrated on a much larger scale: the days of many saints (for example, the feast of St. George Giorgob) are official non-working days in the country.

Safety. What to watch out for

This is the most difficult section for me because I don't know what to watch out for in Tbilisi, because it is one of the most calm and hospitable cities I have ever lived in. Tbilisi residents do not close car doors when they go out on business: why? In the capital, you can leave your purse in a cafe, go wash your hands and know that your things will be exactly in the same place where you left them. Even the front door to the apartment is not always closed (I don’t know how it is in new buildings on the outskirts, but in old houses in the center this is exactly the case).

However, it is important to remember the following: Tbilisi is not heaven on earth (especially since we have already found out that paradise is Gardenia), and even criminals live here. Nowadays various changes are taking place in the country, and this cannot but affect people who, in general, live quite poorly (especially in the regions). Therefore, behave the way you behave in hometown: do not leave valuables unattended, do not wander drunk around unfamiliar outskirts and construction sites, do not be rude or enter into conflict with the local population.

The latter is especially important: I have noted more than once that Georgians, like a mirror, catch your every mood and immediately ricochet it back. This means that you need to approach them with kindness, and they will reciprocate in kind. But if they sense your skepticism or hostility, don't expect sincerity. In relations with Georgians, it is important to be honest and open.

Things to do

In the Georgian capital, life is in full swing from morning to late evening, and there is no time to be bored here. But anything can happen, and what to do if you have already visited all the museums of Tbilisi, tasted fifteen varieties of wine, and got acquainted with all the merchants? In this case, truly Tbilisi entertainment will come to the rescue: a trip to the famous sulfur baths, a master class on khinkali sculpting, or meditative painting of a ceramic plate. Things to do:

Shopping and shops

For shopping in Tbilisi, you can go to large shopping centers, or you can find more interesting places. Read also the “Souvenirs” section, there are a couple of must-see places there. So, what to bring from Tbilisi:

• Georgian enamel minankari. For example, on the -1st floor of the station there is a gold market, where there are a couple of shops with this wonderful enamel, which is used to decorate earrings, pendants and rings. Small earrings can be bought for 20 USD (40 GEL), but do not forget to bargain;
• ABOUTclothes from Georgian designers. You can go to such fashionable showrooms as Atelier Materiel or Dots on Kote Akhazi Street, 22 (aka Leselidze Street), but they are quite expensive, although beautiful. My find is a store of women's clothing, shoes and accessories on Agmashenebeli Avenue. I don’t remember the house number, but if you find this place, honor and respect await you. And beauty, of course. After exiting the Marjanishvili metro station, turn right and walk along the right side for about 10 minutes. The glass door and the small room behind it hide a pile of cotton dresses (prices from 15 USD/30 GEL), strange velvet pants, blouses with frills and genuine leather boots (75 USD/150 GEL).

Bars. Where to go

Amazing fact: for several months in Georgia I did not visit a single bar. More precisely, I went into a couple, but only in company with someone. It seemed to me unnatural to go drink some cocktails if there is Georgian wine, and listen to club music if there are lyrical national songs. But there are interesting places in Tbilisi where you can look one evening. Choose:

• Warsaw, in which, it seems, only Polish tourists should hang out (the number of whom in Georgia is off the charts), is located on A. Pushkin Street, 19. You will probably pass by it a thousand times, and on the first thousand you will not be able to stand it and go inside. And you will find a crowd of drunk people there, who, however, are having fun. You can order beer, wine, chacha or vodka (reasonable prices, from 1 USD/2 GEL per serving) and join in the general fun (although it’s better to come already prepared with alcohol). The establishment is usually cramped, but sincere. Simple snacks are served. open until 04:00, which is rather rare for Tbilisi.
• Gin Garden Bar & Kitchen is a bar in a non-pop place, a little away from the center teeming with tourists (Takhaishvili Street, 1 A). Here you can eat non-Georgian food (and many people get tired of it quite quickly) or make your own khinkali (if you still aren’t tired of them). All guests are usually delighted with the size of the portions and the cordiality of the owner Dmitry. Nice interior, quality dishes from seasonal vegetables and fruits, pleasant staff - what more do you need? As a bonus: the bar has a non-smoking area, and for the New Year they decorate a live Christmas tree. The establishment is open until 02:00, a glass of wine or beer will cost about 2 USD/4 GEL.
• To get to Bottle Shock Wine Bar, you’ll have to work a little harder: the establishment is located on Metekhi Rise (building 14). Inside you will find Georgian wines, a real fireplace, no smell of tobacco smoke, furniture self made and a relaxed atmosphere. Perfect place for a quiet evening (usually the bar closes until 00:00, but it can close later - as it goes), where you can philosophize while looking at the fire, or play board games. The staff is knowledgeable about wines and will be happy to help you find a drink to suit your taste. The menu also includes chacha, beer and light snacks.

Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

I want to take everything from Tbilisi: wine, cheeses, strangely cut dresses, and even a piece of the carved balcony hanging over the Kura River! If you are traveling by own car, you have such an opportunity. If you are returning home by plane, remember about the extra charge for excess weight and choose souvenirs from Georgia more carefully.

• You'll probably want to guilt And Suluguni. You can buy it in any store; it will still be more expensive at the airport (where the price of a bottle starts from 12 USD (GEL)). Buying homemade wine is a great idea, just remember that it doesn’t last long in a plastic bottle: it’s better to drink it within three days. It’s easier with cheese: you can buy it at the market near the railway station (Vokzalnaya Ploshchad metro station) and store it in the refrigerator for quite a long time.

How to get around the city

If you live in the center, you will be able to move around Tbilisi on foot and, believe me, this is a real pleasure. Finding myself in the city for the first time, I covered twenty kilometers every day with breaks for crazy lunches and evening coffee and dessert. Tbilisi is ideal for hiking, and even if there were no transport there at all, this would not spoil it at all.

Taxi. What features exist

Taxi in Tbilisi is inexpensive. The main thing is to show that you are aware of the prices and not to be deceived. Some taxi drivers will ask you for 15 GEL for a ten-minute ride around the city center. It is expensive. Red price - 2.5 USD (5 GEL) for a short trip around Tbilisi. A taxi from Tbilisi airport costs 10 USD/20 GEL, if pre-ordered by phone - 8 USD (17 GEL). It is better to have cash lari for payment.

Often, if you are heading out of town, the driver will offer to wait for you and take you back. Agree on the price in advance to avoid getting into an awkward situation later. Georgians, as a rule, are honest people, but in an effort to earn more money they can cheat. Pretend that you are familiar with the prices (you can wave your hands in indignation and exclaim: “How come, I always paid five lari, well!”), and no one will deceive you.

Metro

The Tbilisi Metro, which celebrated its fiftieth anniversary in 2016, consists of two lines (Saburtalinskaya and Akhmeteli-Varketilskaya) and crosses the entire city center. The metro operates from 6:00 to 00:00.

The fare is 0.25 USD (0.5 GEL). In order to use the metro, you need to buy a plastic card worth 1 USD (2 GEL) and top it up at the metro ticket office. You will also need it for a ride on the cable car to the Narikala fortress. Signs in Georgian are duplicated in Latin letters, so figuring out where to go won’t be difficult. Among the pleasant little things: the escalators move very quickly, and this compensates for the long descents and ascents (many stations are quite deep).

By the way: The Tbilisi metro became the fourth in the Soviet Union after Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kyiv. Construction of new stations is currently underway.

Buses

Buses and minibuses move chaotically throughout the city, and it is best to ask fellow travelers or the driver about the destination: most often the route is written in Georgian, and it will not be possible to figure it out quickly. On central streets such as Rustaveli Avenue there are bus stops electronic displays, which show the time until the bus arrives.

The fare, as in the metro, is 0.25 USD (0.5 GEL). On buses you can pay by card or cash, in minibuses only in cash, and it is better to have some change with you (although there is information that in some minibuses you can pay by card - check this when traveling to Tbilisi, please). There is no need to pay for the fare immediately upon entering, as we are used to doing in Moscow. The cost of travel by minibus is 0.16–0.4 USD (0.3–0.8 GEL).

Transport rental

Renting a car in Tbilisi is easy: the choice of cars is quite large, all you need is a driver’s license (you don’t need an international one, a Russian one will do). I’ll tell you why, in my opinion, you shouldn’t rent a car in Georgia:

• It may be dangerous. Georgian roads- these are not the roads of the flat part of Russia, for example. Most of Georgia is occupied by mountains, and serpentines are practically unavoidable. Quality highways Georgia is not bad (beautiful in places), but the mountains change a lot. If you are not used to driving on such roads, it is better not to risk it.
• While driving, you will miss all the most beautiful things. Do you agree that in an unfamiliar country you will not feel as comfortable driving as you do at home, and you will watch the road with double attention? So why not entrust the driving of the car to the minibus driver, and enjoy the ride yourself, looking around and taking pictures at speed!

Tbilisi - holidays with children

If there is an ideal country in the world for children, it is. Children here are loved, valued and pampered. In Georgia in general and Tbilisi in particular, you will find children everywhere. In the fall I was at the Tbilisi Opera, where they performed the ballet “Gorda”. The hall was full of children, and how quietly they behaved!

My friend, who moved to live in Tbilisi, told me how great it is to be pregnant in Georgia: they let you through in lines, give way to you, and even at crazy pedestrian crossings, cars stop dead in their tracks. Because children are sacred. Don’t be surprised if your child (no matter how old or months old he is) is cuddled by strangers: in Georgia this is considered normal.

While traveling with a child in Tbilisi, you will probably want to visit the following places:

Ski holiday

Gudauri

Tbilisians usually go to Gudauri to ski or snowboard.

You can get there from Tbilisi by car or minibus, which goes to the village of Kazbegi (aka Stepantsminda).

The 121-kilometer journey will take 1.5–2 hours, depending on the weather and driving style.

Bakuriani

You can go to Bakuriani, towards Western Georgia.

The road there will take about 3 hours: you can get there by minibus, but there is a more interesting option. First, take the Tbilisi - Borjomi train (there are only two a day, choose the one at 6:00), and then quickly cross the platform and transfer to the “Kukushka”, a small old train that leaves for Bakuriani along a narrow-gauge road. The journey promises to be bright; read more about this route in the article about.

***

Young people often go to Gudauri, families with children go to Bakuriani. The second resort is considered cheaper and quieter in terms of nightlife. It is convenient to travel to Gudauri from the Russian side (in case you are flying into Vladikavkaz), but remember that due to heavy snowfalls, the border and the road through the pass may be closed for several days, and then you will have to stay in Georgia, which , you must agree, it’s quite good.

Ski passes

One lift in Gudauri costs 2 USD (5 GEL), three - 7 USD (15 GEL) (the price is the same for adults and children from 6 to 16 years old). A full-day ski pass costs 14 USD (30 GEL) for adults and 12 USD (25 GEL) for children.

It is profitable to buy a ski pass for a week at once: the price is 65 USD (174 GEL) for an adult and 43 USD (116 GEL) for a child. You can ride tuning completely free of charge.

Prices during peak season (February 4–March 12) are higher: a weekly pass will cost 86 USD (232 GEL) for an adult and 54 USD (145 GEL) for a child. Children under 6 years old can ride for free.

You can pay for the ski pass in Gudauri in cash GEL or by bank card at any resort ticket office.

Read about ski passes in Bakuriani in my article about.

Trails

Gudauri is more suitable for those who have already skied, although there are also slopes for beginners there.

But still, if you are just starting to conquer the snowy Georgian slopes, pay attention to Bakuriani.

Tbilisi is the old Tiflis, the capital of Georgia, lying on the banks of the Kura River, a city of poets and artists who glorified ancient fortresses and streets decorated with Mediterranean greenery. On the outskirts of the city they pile up mountain ranges, and above the streets of Old Tbilisi, Mount Mtatsminda rises like a pedestal to the Church of St. David, sung in dozens of national songs.

The Georgian capital owes its name to hot hydrogen sulfide springs - “tbili” means warm. In the historical center of the city rise the domes of the Sulfur Baths, decorated with mosaics and terracotta tiles. A block from the thermal baths stretches the “Tbilisi Montmartre” - Lesidze Street, and on the opposite bank of the Kura River there is Rike Park, a thread cable car associated with the Narikala fortress.

Geographical position

Tbilisi is the capital of Georgia, located in the central part of the country, in a deep basin, at an altitude of 406-900 m above sea level. The city lies on the banks of the Kura River, which originates on the slopes of the Armenian Highlands.

Tbilisi is the natural center of the Caucasus. The city is located in an intermountain gorge formed by the Trialeti and Saguram ranges covered with broad-leaved forest, and the hilly Iori Plateau. Mount Mtatsminda rises above the city center, connected to the capital’s streets by a funicular line, and a little to the south the Sololaki ridge, on which the Narikala fortress and the Tbilisi Botanical Garden are located, cuts into the city limits.

The riverbed of the Kura divides Tbilisi into western and eastern parts. Within the city, many small rivers adjoin the main waterway. In the southwest of the Georgian capital there are small but very picturesque lakes Cherepashye and Lisi. In the north-east of the city stretches the expanse of the Tbilisi Sea - a reservoir ringed with beaches and recreation areas.

The flora of Tbilisi - cypresses, pines and plane trees in city parks and squares, deciduous forests bordering the foothills of mountain ranges, pines and junipers growing on rocky ledges. 20 km from the outskirts of Tbilisi is National Park– Colchian flora and rare plant species have been preserved here.

Climate

The climate of Tbilisi is dry subtropical. Winter is warm and short. average temperature the coldest month, January, is 2.3 °C. Summer is long, warm and sunny. The average temperature in July is 25 °C. Daytime temperatures often reach 30 °C and above.

The average annual precipitation in Tbilisi is 540-570 mm in the south of the city, about 800 m in the north.

Hours of sunshine – 2100 per year.

Weather conditions in Tbilisi are generally comfortable for holidays at any time of the year. However, traditionally best time The best time to visit the Georgian capital is the end of spring and beginning of summer, as well as September and October, when the weather is sunny but not hot, allowing you to enjoy walks around the city.

Connection

High-quality cellular communications and Mobile Internet in Tbilisi, all operators of Georgia provide - “Magti”, “Geocell” and “Beeline”. SIM cards can be purchased at the airport, shops, shopping centers, communication shops and post offices.

In cafes, restaurants, cultural and tourist centers, recreation areas have free Wi-Fi Internet access points. Most hotels, guest houses and hostels in Tbilisi also provide wireless Internet access.

A landline telephone in Tbilisi can be used in hotels and tourist information centers.

Tbilisi telephone code – 32

To call Tbilisi from Russia on a mobile phone, dial: + 995 - 32 - subscriber number

To call from a landline phone: 8 - 10 - 995 - 32 - subscriber number

Population

The population of Tbilisi is 1,175,200 people. About 85% of the city's residents are Georgians, about 8% are Armenians, 3% are Russians, 1.5% are Yazidis. The remaining percentage falls on small ethnic groups of Ossetians, Greeks, Azerbaijanis, Ukrainians, and Abkhazians.

Transport component

Tbilisi Airport is the main air harbor of the country. Regular flights the airport is connected to Moscow, St. Petersburg, Yekaterinburg and Novosibirsk, Minsk, Baku, Istanbul, European capitals. The airport is located in the suburbs of Tbilisi.

You can get from the airport to the center of the Georgian capital by high-speed electric train, departing twice a day. The train departs from the airport platform at 07:55 and 17:20. Travel time is 25 minutes and the fare is 2 GEL. Also, municipal bus No. 37 runs from the airport to the city at intervals of 10-20 minutes. Travel time by bus is 50 minutes. There are taxi dispatch desks in the airport's arrival hall.

Railway transport. The main hub of Georgian railways with a passenger station. Trains depart from the capital to Yerevan (Armenia), Baku (Azerbaijan), Kutaisi, Zugdidi, Ozurgeti, Batumi (Makhinjauri), Borjomi. You can check the fare and train schedule on the Georgian Railways website http://www.railway.ge To Kakheti passenger trains don't go.

There are several bus stations in Tbilisi. The largest of them is located in the north of the city, near the Didube metro station. There are several parking lots with minibuses, a bus station building with a schedule, ticket offices, a waiting room and an information desk. Depart from Didube minibuses to Batumi, Borjomi, Vardzia, Gudauri, Zugdidi, Kutaisi.

There are two small bus stations near the Samgori metro station. From here you can get to Kakheti - the cities of Telavi, Sighnaghi, Akhmeti. From Isani metro station you can get to Tsnori and Lagodekhi. In the southern part of the city there is the Ortachala bus station, from where minibuses depart to Telavi and neighboring countries - Armenia, Azerbaijan, Turkey and Russia. There are flights to Mineralnye Vody, Orenburg, Rostov-on-Don, Volgograd and Moscow.

Tbilisi metro has a length of 23 km, has 2 lines and 22 stations. The red line “Akhmeteli - Varketili” passes through the center, the railway station, and the Didube station, which has the city’s largest bus station, is located on it. Payment in the metro is carried out using Metromoney cards, which are sold at ticket offices. The card costs 2 lari, the deposit can be returned by presenting the card and a receipt. A trip in the Tbilisi metro costs 0.5 lari. You can use your Metromoney card to pay for travel on buses and city minibuses.

Urban ground transport Tbilisi– buses and minibuses. The transport network covers all areas of the capital. Minibus taxis are the most popular, as they run more often than buses. Taxi services are provided by large and small companies, as well as private owners. You can rent a car in Tbilisi. The service is provided by both small companies and large companies with branches all over the world. On average, renting a middle-class car in Tbilisi per day will cost 150-200 USD.

In addition, Tbilisi has a funicular connecting the city with the top of Mount Mtatsminda, and a cable car from Park Rike to Narikala Fortress.

Tourism

Tbilisi – ancient city and the capital of the country. Many architectural, historical, cultural and natural monuments. Getting to know Tbilisi is unthinkable without a walk through the historical quarters, visiting medieval fortresses and ancient temples. There are walking and bus routes throughout the city and its surroundings. excursion routes. For the convenience of guests of the capital, bicycle and car rental points are provided. Excursions are offered by both large travel companies and private guides.

Do not forget that Tbilisi is the cultural center of Georgia. All more tourists strive to time your visit to the city to coincide with a festive event, be it the city day - Tbilisoba or New Year.

On top of everything else, Tbilisi - balneological resort. The city stands on thermal hydrogen sulfide springs. Highly mineralized waters with a temperature of 24-27 °C rise from the depths of Mount Mtarbori. Tbilisi springs have high medicinal properties. There is a Balneological Center in the city. At the springs there are the Abanotubani baths - Sernaya, Pestraya, Tsarskaya and Bath Sumbatova. The baths are made in oriental style, topped with wide low domes. The baths have a steam room and fonts with sulfur waters. The bathhouses are traditionally divided into women's and men's halves. Guests can take sulfur baths and enjoy wellness massages. It is worth remembering that hydrogen sulfide baths are active view balneotherapy, which has contraindications.

Medical, health, cosmetology and spa treatments are offered resort hotels. As a rule, the list of their services includes massage, a visit to the Turkish bath, and cosmetic treatments for the skin of the face and body.

Important phone numbers

Emergency phone numbers in Tbilisi are the same as throughout Georgia:

• Fire service - 111
• Police - 122
• Ambulance – 113
• Emergency Service -112
• United help desk 119

Get information of interest, purchase tourist map The city can be found in the city information and tourist centers operating at:

Tbilisi, st. Rustaveli 3,
Phone: (+995 32) 2 93 12 60
Email:
Opening hours: daily 10:00-18:00 (summer 10:00-19:00)

Tbilisi Airport,
Phone: (+995 32) 2 31 00 07
Email:
The center is open 24 hours a day

Russian Interests Section at the Swiss Embassy in Georgia:
Address: 0162, Georgia, Tbilisi, I. Chavchavadze Ave., 51
Tel: (8-10-99532) 291-24-06, 291-26-45, 291-26-75
Fax: (8-10-99532) 291-27-38
Email: ;
;

Opening hours: Monday-Thursday from 09:00 to 18:30; Friday from 09:00 to 15-00; Closed: Saturday, Sunday.

Attractions

Getting acquainted with the Georgian capital should begin with the Old Town. The historical center of Tbilisi is the space from the Narikala fortress to the Kura embankment. It was within these borders that the city existed before joining Russia. On Pushkin and Baratashvili streets you can see fragments of the fortress wall that once surrounded Tbilisi along the perimeter. Historical quarters are valuable for their special atmosphere - narrow winding streets are made up of houses with carved balconies hanging over the roads, mansions in the Art Nouveau style, buildings of the 18th and 19th centuries. Since both Jews and Azerbaijanis lived here from time immemorial, you can see temples, synagogues and mosques on the streets of Old Tbilisi. The main thoroughfare of the historical center is Lesidze Street, on which there are khinkali bars, cafes and wine cellars.

You should definitely visit the Narikala fortress. You can climb to the citadel by cable car from Rike Park or on foot from the Old Town. The fortress dates back to the 5th century, but despite this and not a single destructive attack or earthquake, Narikala has been well preserved. Here you can walk along the fortress wall, visit the Church of St. George, built on an ancient foundation, and admire the views of Tbilisi.

While vacationing in Tbilisi, you should visit the Sulfur Baths at least once. Steam rooms and baths at Tbilisi hydrogen sulfide springs are located in the Abanotubani quarter. All baths are made in oriental style and are topped with stone domes, tiles, mosaics and marble are everywhere. Baths differ in cost and level of comfort. You can visit the general men's and women's departments or rent a private room with a plunge pool, a marble massage table and a relaxation room.

Another must-visit destination in Tbilisi is Mount Mtatsminda. You can climb to the top using a modern funicular. Colorful carriages cover the distance to Mtatsminda in 4 minutes, during which you can observe the mosaic of the roofs of Tbilisi or the lights of the evening city, depending on the time of day. There is a Botanical Garden and an amusement park on the mountain. The cable car starts from the top station hiking trail along the Sololaki ridge.

The market on the Dry Bridge became a cult place. Here you can see and purchase antiques, rare books, paintings, works of art and simply unusual things. At the main flea market in Tbilisi, daggers are put up for sale, National costumes, backgammon, clay jugs and wine horns, which can become souvenirs for friends and family.

In addition, in Tbilisi you can admire modern architecture, embodied in the House of Justice and the Exhibition Center, visit Tsminda Sambea - Trinity Cathedral, go on a trip to Mtskheta, to the monasteries and canyons of Birtvisi.

Leisure at the resort

Restaurants. In Tbilisi, restaurants, cafes, khinkali, coffee shops, snack bars, pizzerias and fast food outlets are open to guests. Dishes national cuisine It is served both in small cafes with three tables and in gourmet restaurants. Some establishments are attractions of sorts. On one of the streets of Old Tbilisi there is a restaurant “Gabriadze”. The hall of the establishment was decorated by Rezo Gabriadze, director, artist, and author of scripts for the films “Kin-Dza-Dza”, “Mimino”, “Don’t Cry”. Each of the restaurant tables is dedicated to a particular film and is personally painted by the owner of the establishment. Gabriadze serves Georgian cuisine, as well as very unusual signature dishes, such as beet ice cream and wine tea.

Kebabs, khinkali, khachapuri can be enjoyed in the “Taglaura” chain restaurants scattered throughout the city, in the “Shemoikhede Genatsvale” - “Come in, dear” cafe, which can be found on Leselidze Street in the Old Town.

Unlike many Georgian cities, Tbilisi has oriental restaurants and sushi bars, Indian restaurants, Irish pubs, and steak houses.

Parks. Tbilisi has many parks, squares and gardens. The most modern green space in the city is Rike Park, located on the right bank of the Kura River. It’s difficult to call the park shady yet; there aren’t many trees here. But the park has a summer amphitheater, stone tables and benches for relaxation, giant chess, and the lower station of the cable car to the Narikala fortress. In the evenings, the color and musical fountains become a spectacular sight.

On the opposite bank of the Kura River there is Grandfather En Park, where you can take a photo with a sculpture by artist Niko Pirosmani, and Vere Park, covered in the shadow of centuries-old trees.

At the top station of the Tbilisi cable car there is a Botanical Garden. By territory natural complex The Tsavkisistskali River flows, belted with bridges. Visitors Botanical Garden can see holm, cork and kermes oaks, a collection of conifers, palm alleys and a rose plantation.

Theaters and cinemas. Tbilisi is known for its rich theatrical heritage. In the center of the city there are the main drama theaters of the country - the Academic Theater named after K. Marjanishvili, on the stage of which plays by Chekhov, Sartre and Stoppard are performed, the Academic Theater named after Shota Rustaveli, where you can see productions of “Khanuma” and “Waiting for Godot”. In addition, there is an Opera and Ballet Theater and a Musical Comedy Theater in Tbilisi. Performances in Russian are staged at the Griboedov Russian Drama Theater and the Gabriadze Puppet Theater.

There are two large cinemas in Tbilisi - “Amirani” and “Rustaveli”. The schedule includes new releases from global film distribution. Many films come with Russian dubbing.

Museums. There are more than fifty museums and galleries in Tbilisi. The main one, perhaps, can be called the National Museum, which displays collections of ancient jewelry, weapons, and works of art. The structure of the National Museum includes the well-known Museum of Soviet Occupation. In the only hall of the museum, visitors can see a fragment of the carriage where the Georgian rebels were shot, a commissar's table covered with green cloth, photographs and documents of that era.

In the very center of the Old Town on Sioni Street is the History Museum. Mostly exhibits from the 19th century, models and plans of the city are presented here; there is also a hall with works by contemporary Georgian artists. Interesting to visit is the Museum of Georgian musical instruments, Museum of coins in Sololaki.

Surrounded by Vake Park, on the shores of Turtle Lake, there is an open-air Ethnographic Museum. The complex features traditional Georgian dwellings from different regions of the country. Visitors can enter the houses and get acquainted with the modest furnishings of peasant houses and the interior decoration of the mansions of wealthy citizens. The ethnographic complex regularly hosts festivals and cultural events.

Entertainment and shopping centers. The Tbilisi Central shopping and entertainment complex is located, as the name suggests, in the central part of the Georgian capital. Moreover, the mall occupies a building railway station. Tbilisi central has clothing stores, boutiques, jewelry stores, equipment and electronics stores. There is a food court and bowling center.

The largest malls in Tbilisi are “Karvasla” and “TbilisiMall”. The shopping centers feature stores of the world's leading fashion brands, an entertainment center and food courts.

In Tbilisi you can try your luck at the casino. There are two large gaming establishments in the city. The Adjara casino offers 50 gaming tables, 295 slot machines, 80 electronic roulette stations, and a poker club. At the Iveria casino, guests are offered to play poker, blackjack, American roulette, slot machines and electronic roulette. Both casinos are open 24 hours a day. In addition, in Tbilisi the doors of nightclubs, small entertainment centers, bowling clubs and billiard rooms.

Water parks. The GinoParadise complex operates on the shores of the Tbilisi Sea. The water park offers visitors an Olympic swimming pool, a counter-current “mountain river” pool, children’s water slides, a toboggan slide and a wave pool. Visitors can complement their visit with a sauna session or lunch at one of the local cafes. In addition, there are sports and recreational centers with swimming pools and water slides in Tbilisi.

Amusement parks. At the top of Mount Mtatsminda there is the Bombora recreation park. Already at the entrance, visitors are greeted by all kinds of sculptures, figures of fairy-tale characters and folk epics. “Bombora” has carousels, children's trains, slides and swings; you can see the panorama of Tbilisi by riding on a 62-meter Ferris wheel. In summer, the slide where passengers are splashed with water is especially popular. Entrance to the park is absolutely free, and in order to ride the attractions you need to take a card as collateral and put the amount you plan to spend on it. Many people prefer to simply walk around the park, relaxing on benches hidden in the shade of trees, taking pictures with the quirky “inhabitants” of the park. Every day, festivals, holidays and show programs are held at Bombora.

Poster

Tbilisi delights guests with a rich cultural life. The city regularly hosts music and theater festivals, youth forums, and art exhibitions, concerts and creative meetings are held at city venues.

Holidays are celebrated on a grand scale in Tbilisi. In mid-May, residents of the capital celebrate Tamarobu - Queen Tamara's Day. The main festivities take place at the Church of Our Lady in Didube. Divine services are held in all churches.

At the very end of spring, Tbilisi hosts the Flower Festival. Rare species of begonias and roses and fragrant flower arrangements are exhibited in Zion Square. The last Thursday of October is the time of Tbilisoba, the celebration of Tbilisi City Day. Music plays in city squares, artists perform, fairs take place, and wine tastings are held.

From year to year, a wine festival and a cheese festival are held in Tbilisi, festivals classical music, Annual Russian Film Festival, open festival of documentaries and original films. World-famous stars perform on the city's stages.

I know:
stupidity - Eden and paradise!
But if
sang about it
there must be
Georgia,
joyful land,
the poets meant.

Vladimir Mayakovsky. "Vladikavkaz - Tiflis"

Georgia is a very cool country, definitely one of the most interesting in the world, which, moreover, has been changing very quickly lately. Surprisingly, today there is everything you need for simple human happiness. For starters, delicious cuisine. Divine khachapuri, juicy khinkali, kharcho, satsivi, ojakhuri... The list is endless. And homemade cheeses! And Georgian lemonades! And the wine! And all this is always put on the table in a huge number, so that the latter, literally, begins to burst with prepared dishes. When the physiological needs of the body are satisfied, a leisurely conversation with the owners will certainly begin; not a single meal can do without it. The main thing is not to lean on the wine, otherwise you will have no strength left for anything else. When the traveler is rested and satiated with food and intimate conversations, the time will come to explore the cultural and historical heritage: powerful medieval fortresses, mountain villages cut off from the whole world, ancient temples and diverse cities - from Kutaisi, which looks like an old wardrobe, to ultra-modern Batumi. Let's add here the most beautiful Caucasus Mountains, where you can walk endlessly, and the mild Black Sea climate. Well, let’s wrap it all in a memorable Caucasian wrapper. What more could you ask for in this world? Yes, Georgia has problems and serious mistakes of the recent past. But all this does not at all prevent Georgians from treating Russians in a brotherly way, in the warmest sense of the word. Today I start publishing my photo reports from Georgia, and my first story is about Tbilisi.

Despite the fact that the mountainous banks of the Kura River, on which the Georgian capital is located, have been inhabited since ancient times, the official history of Tbilisi began only in the middle of the 5th century AD. The founder of the city is considered to be Vakhtang Gorgasali, the founder of Georgian statehood and the king of the ancient country of Iberia, which was once located on the territory of modern Eastern Georgia. True, even official historiographers do not deny the fact that even a hundred years before the official date of the emergence of Tbilisi, the Shuris-Tsikhe fortress already stood in its place, for which fierce battles periodically took place between the Iberians and Persians. The main thing here is not to confuse the Iberians, who lived in Eastern Georgia, with the people of the same name who lived on the Iberian Peninsula: most likely there never was any historical connection between these two peoples, who have the same names...

Over its long history, Tbilisi has more than once found itself in the thick of historical events - the Arabs who created the Tbilisi Emirate, the Mongols, the Persians, and the Turks managed to manage here. In 1801, Georgia became part of the Russian Empire, and exactly 120 years later - into the USSR (which, however, was preceded by the three-year existence of an independent Georgian Democratic Republic). Since 1991, Tbilisi has been the capital of independent Georgia.

Georgia became for me a country of a thousand discoveries - they happened almost every day. The first shock, in the good sense of the word, awaited us at the airport. Our flight arrived late, around three o'clock in the morning. The airport was practically empty, but almost all the booths passport control worked. I expected a queue and total carelessness, but instead I was greeted with hospitality and perfect order: not even one minute had passed when the border guard, smiling broadly, slapped the coveted stamp on my international passport and said “Welcome to Georgia!” At that moment, something clicked in my head, the pattern of standard arrival in a post-Soviet country was mercilessly torn apart.

Less than ten minutes passed before we were surprised for the second time. At the exit from the airport we were caught by some bomber who promised to take us to the center of Tbilisi in a breeze for less than an official taxi. By the way, after, I always find out before departure how much a taxi from the airport to the city should cost. It was the same this time, and just as I was about to put another swindler in his place, it turned out that this bombed one was not a swindler at all, and was really ready to take us cheaper. The old Mercedes was hurrying along the night streets, and its driver was constantly telling us all sorts of things. interesting stories, in the end he made me write down my phone number just in case, helped to wake up the hotel owner and carry our suitcases...

There was an earthquake at night. We woke up to the fact that everything was shaking. While we were gathering thoughts about what to do, everything calmed down. Three days later we learn that this earthquake was partially destroyed Georgian Military Road, along which we had to go to Stepantsminda.

The morning was warm. The first photo from our walk. In Tbilisi it is Monday.

Georgia greeted us somehow too well. I even began to think that we had gone to heaven by mistake. Over the next few days, this thought only became stronger in my head.

Of course, there were some small fly in the ointment in this barrel of honey. For example, in the first ten minutes of our walk we encountered the first Georgian peculiarity - local drivers absolutely do not pay attention to such a trifle as pedestrian crossings, so in order to cross the road you literally have to throw yourself in front of cars. True, after a couple of days, a reflex is developed - to hide behind the locals when crossing; their instinct of self-preservation is present in some dulled form.

Tbilisi is surrounded by mountains. The most famous of them is Mtatsminda. At its top there is an amusement park, a television tower, as well as one of the most famous restaurants in the city, where we decided to have a ceremonial breakfast in honor of the start of our journey through the Caucasus.

The easiest way to get to the top of Mtatsminda is by cable car. It was built by the Belgians at the beginning of the 20th century. It had not worked since 2000, and was restarted just a few months before our arrival.

Finding the lower station of the funicular was not such an easy task. While we were wandering around the surrounding streets, some young Tbilisian became attached to us. Even though it was Monday, he clearly had nothing to do—work is not going well in Georgia, so he decided to join us on our walk up the mountain. True, he couldn’t pass the face control for the funicular: either he didn’t have the money for a ticket, or he just didn’t want to pay, but for some reason he was very offended when he heard that I wasn’t going to buy him a ticket either. So our next Georgian friend remained below, and we ended up on the top of Mtatsminda.

It's interesting here.

In the same building as the upper station of the funicular, there is a restaurant that was once famous throughout Georgia. Its main value is the views from its terrace. Khachapuri on a skewer is also, of course, okay here. But the views...

Most of Tbilisi is in full view.

The large temple in the background is Tsminda Sameba, the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, the largest in Georgia. This temple is quite new - construction began in 1995 and ended in 2004.

A large white futuristic building is the House of Justice, where residents of Tbilisi can obtain any certificates and documents, from a passport to an extract from the state archive, which is located here. Any documents are completed in Georgia very quickly - literally within 10 minutes; we were even able to verify this from our own experience a few days later.

Roofs of the old city. In Tbilisi it has been preserved in all its glory; we will walk along its streets a little later.

View from Mtatsminda to the north. The sleeping quarters are the same everywhere.

Ferris wheel. We went for a ride once.

The top of Mtatsminda became popular among Tbilisi residents back in the century before last - in the summer months they escaped here from the heat that enveloped the city streets. Over time, cafes and restaurants began to open at the top. Then the Belgians built their own funicular. Then in the 1930s, Comrade Beria decided to build a recreation park on the top. Finally, reconstruction was carried out here in 2008.

In general, the years from 2004 to 2013, when Mikheil Saakashvili was at the head of the country, radically changed both Georgia and its capital - both native Tbilisians and those who managed to visit here in earlier years told me about this more than once. Saakashvili's activities can be given different assessments - from extremely negative to very positive. In general, people in Georgia love him very much - he was able to radically turn the country around for the better. The only thing Georgians will never forgive him is the military conflict with Russia in August 2008.

Whether I want it or not, the name Saakashvili will still appear in my stories about Georgia. He really wanted to make his country as similar as possible to best countries Europe. The surprising thing about this story is that he partially succeeded - I will definitely touch on this topic in detail in one of my next photo reports. And today we’ll talk about Saakashvili’s architectural heritage.

Left photo: monument on Freedom Square; from here the “Rose Revolution” began in 2004, when protesters with flowers in their hands seized the parliament building. Right photo: The Presidential Palace is a slightly strange mixture of the White House and the Reichstag, designed by the Italians.

Bridge of Peace over the Kura River. To local residents- they don’t like it, they think it looks like a feminine pad and call it “Always”, in honor of the famous brand under which this hygiene product is produced.

Next to the bridge is Rike Park, another project from the time of Saakashvili. The park is nice, but somehow completely unfriendly, without a soul.

But the houses on the second tier are good. The views from the balconies must be the most beautiful.

I can only guess about the view from the balconies, but from the nearby street the city looks very nice. In the foreground is Rike Park, behind it is the Peace Bridge, then Old city and Mount Mtatsminda.

Where Mtatsminda comes close to the Kura, breaking off to its bed steep cliff, the Narikala fortress is located. It was for this that the Iberians fought with the Persians in the 4th century AD, when it was still called Shuris-Tsikhe. The modern name - Narikala - comes from the Mongols.

From the fortress walls - another beautiful view to the city.

Below is the bathhouse area - here are the hot sulfur springs, thanks to which Tbilisi arose long ago. By the way, the name of the city comes from the Georgian word “tbili” - “warm”.

Sulfur baths are considered one of the symbols of Tbilisi. One Georgian poet once said: “Not visiting them is like coming to Paris and not climbing the Eiffel Tower.” I still don’t understand how it happened that we didn’t go to the baths this time, although we originally intended to.

But let's return to Narikala. The best time to walk here is at sunset: the fortifications plus the soft evening light are equally good.

During its existence, the fortress was rebuilt several times. The last time was in the 18th century. The fortress received its modern appearance after the earthquake of 1827.

The temple on the far hill is the Church of St. George, which has existed on this site since ancient times. At the beginning of the 19th century, it housed a gunpowder warehouse, which exploded cheerfully in 1827. The temple was destroyed to the ground. The extent to which this explosion is related to the earthquake, which I talked about just above, is unknown. It is known that in modern form the church was restored in 2004.

Not far from the fortress there is a monument “Mother Kartli”, or “Mother Georgia”. Kartli is the second name of the same Iberia that was once ruled by Vakhtang Gorgasali.

In one hand, “Mother Kartli” holds a cup of wine for friends, in the other, a sword for enemies.

Next to the monument is our good old friend. Last time we saw him in .

View of the city from the monument. The sights already familiar to us are clearly visible: the Tsminda Sameba Cathedral, the House of Justice, the Presidential Palace, the Bridge of Peace. The bright dome right in front of the bridge is the Zion Cathedral, in the past the main cathedral of Georgia.

Metekhi Bridge. Next to it on the opposite bank is the oldest district of Tbilisi. It is believed that it was from here that the construction of the city began under Vakhtang Gorgasali. His palace was also located here.

Nowadays the Assumption Church, built in the 13th century, stands on this site. A fortress was built around it in the 17th century. The church miraculously survived the Soviet years, but the fortification was unlucky - for some reason it was destroyed in 1959.

Roofs of the old city.

It seems to me that it is impossible to confuse them with others!

Next time I come to Tbilisi, I will definitely rent a room in the old city.

Tbilisi metro. In general, everything is the same as in Moscow or St. Petersburg. But there are almost no people. And trains run every 10 minutes. And photography is strictly prohibited. And it's dark. And there are old advertisements hanging on the walls - in September there were announcements of concerts that took place back in June.

The main waterway of the city is the Kura River, or Mtkvari in Georgian. Its length is almost 1400 kilometers. Starting its journey in the northeast, the Kura flows into the Caspian Sea and is considered main river Georgia and Azerbaijan.

Next to the House of Justice is the Baratashvili Bridge. On him - sculptural group"Youth".

There is a skate park in the old town.

And courtyards.

There are not many cities left on the territory of the ex-USSR that have preserved the wonderful pre-revolutionary chaotic layout of the central part of the city. Tbilisi is among them.

Everything is beautiful in the old town.

Front doors.

Soviet-style intercoms.

Bars on the windows.

Traces of former greatness, “salve” in Italian - “hello!”

Everything here is very original. The Georgian language is just as original. It is unlike anything else, forget everything you knew before. For example, this is what the spelling of Tbilisi looks like in Georgian - თბილისი. At the same time, the Georgian language is not at all complicated, everything is written as it is heard. If you want, you can figure it out.

It's a pity, but all this dilapidated beauty is gradually becoming a thing of the past. Part of the city has already been restored.

Part is in process.

It’s bad that after the restoration Tbilisi will lose a lot of its authenticity. Most likely, everything will turn out like in China - beautiful and tasteless.

It’s good that Georgia is not China, there is no money here, so the old authentic Tbilisi courtyards should still be enough for our time.

Expressive Georgian swearing can be heard from the small courtyard - someone is sorting things out...

Despite the ostentatious self-sufficiency that arose during the time of Saakashvili, Georgians live very modestly. This is striking even in the center of Tbilisi, not to mention the cities and villages remote from the capital. Although, of course, the situation is last years has changed significantly for the better, for example, Tbilisi residents still remember the harsh 90s of the 20th century, when there was no money at all and in winter they had to heat their houses with potbelly stoves.

After walking around Tbilisi courtyards, you can go to some places of worship. For example - on swap meet next to the Dry Bridge. If you dig deep there, you can find a lot of interesting things, including old daggers and muskets. But then how to get them across the border is a big question.

For some reason I didn’t think of taking a photo of all this stuff. So keep one more photo of the old city.

There is no language barrier in Tbilisi. Those who lived through Soviet times, without exception, speak Russian. And all young people know English well. At all, English language Russian is slowly but surely replacing Russian in Tbilisi.

While you and I were wandering around the courtyards, thick twilight fell on the city...

For some reason they didn’t recommend me to walk around Tbilisi at night, they say it’s not very calm. I ignored all these recommendations, and for good reason - nothing special, the city lives an ordinary evening life. Thousands of light bulbs are lit on the Peace Bridge.

In Rike Park, music is turned on, to which the jets of a large fountain begin to dance. Everyone is walking with their families. There are a lot of young people, some of them in a tipsy state, but absolutely non-aggressive.

The main attractions are highlighted. This is despite the fact that literally ten years ago the city was illuminated at night only by the light of car headlights.

The TV tower and restaurant on Mtatsminda are clearly visible.

Assumption Church on the Metekhi Rock, Metekhi Bridge, Narikala Fortress.

In conclusion, let me remind you that, as before, the final travel route can be viewed by clicking on the appropriate link under the title of this entry. Next time I'll tell you about mountain roads Khevsureti.

 

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