Who was the first to conquer Everest? In what year was Everest conquered? Financial side: how much does it cost to conquer Everest

Mountains beckon a person and challenge him. Some people accept the challenge. But not everyone comes back. Among climbers there is also a rating of “killer mountains”, which are extremely dangerous to conquer.

Annapurna

Location: Nepal. Himalayas.
Height: 8091 m.
Annapurna was the first of all 14 eight-thousanders to be conquered. This happened, however, by accident. The group of the French climber Maurice Herzog was going to conquer another peak - Dhaulagiri, but after reconnaissance they decided that they could conquer another mountain. It turned out to be Annapurna, the northernmost peak of the Himalayas. The ascent took place on June 3, 1950. The conquered peak “took its toll” from the French group. All members of the expedition suffered frostbite; Maurice Herzog had to have his fingers and toes amputated throughout the descent.

The French group was still lucky. To date, one and a half hundred ascents have been made to Annapurna. Over the entire history of conquering the peak, the mortality rate of climbers was 41%, which is extremely high. For comparison, Everest has this coefficient of only 7.4%. It should be taken into account that only experienced climbers go to Annapurna, while Everest is attempted by everyone who has enough money in their wallet.
American top-class climber Ed Vitus, who conquered all 14 eight-thousanders, left Annapurna “for dessert.” His impressions of this mountain are interesting: “Annapurna represents one big danger, it is all covered with ice. One large piece of ice with ice growths on it. And the whole question is in which direction the next growth will deviate, forward or backward.”

Location: Pakistan and China, Karakoram.
Height: 8614 m.
K2, Chogori, or Dopsang is considered the second most difficult peak on Earth to climb, second only to the already mentioned Annapurna. Moreover, Chogori is also the second highest peak (after Everest), but in terms of difficulty of conquest it is much higher than Chomolungma.

K2 was discovered back in 1856, but it was conquered almost a century later, in 1954, by an Italian expedition led by Ardito Desio. Interestingly, in 1902, the famous occultist and mountaineer Aleister Crowley attempted to conquer the mountain, but he did not succeed in reaching the top.
As of mid-2008, 284 people had been to the top of this mountain, 66 died while attempting to climb. A large number of climbers died on the way back. The mortality rate of this terrible peak is 25%, that is, every fourth of those who tried to conquer K2 died.
The Russians left a noticeable mark on the history of ascents to Chogori. The route that our climbers managed to overcome on August 21, 2007 is considered the most difficult. The Russian group climbed the western wall of the peak, which until that time was considered impassable. No one managed to conquer K2 in winter.

Nangaparbat

Location: Pakistan, Himalayas.
Height: 8125 m.
Nanga Parbat is called the “killer mountain” and the “sinker of people”. This is the westernmost peak of the Himalayas. Nanga Parbat began collecting its sad statistics from the first attempt to conquer it - in 1895 it “swallowed” the best climber of his time, the British Albert Mummery. Since then, according to statistics for 2011, Nanga Parbat has claimed the lives of 64 climbers. In total, 263 people were able to conquer Nanga Parbat. The mortality rate of this peak is almost 23%. Every fifth climber who dared to challenge the mountain died.

Pragmatic people explain the reason for such a high mortality rate by the extremely unfavorable sum of climatic factors in the mountain area - the arid climate at the foot causes a huge temperature difference. This makes the weather very unpredictable, and deadly avalanches are also common.
Recently, the unpleasant reputation has been strengthened even more " human factor"In June last year, a camp of climbers located at the foot of the mountain was attacked by Taliban militants. As a result, 10 people were killed.

Nanga Parbat, however, is magnetically attractive - this mountain has the highest absolute height. When you come close to the mountain, you can see a wall 4.5 kilometers high above you.

Kanchenjunga

Location: India, Himalayas.
Height: 8586 m.
The third highest eight-thousander in the world, the easternmost of them. The already mentioned Aleister Crowley was the first to try to conquer the mountain in 1905. Did not work out. Kanchenjunga was conquered only 50 years later. In the entire history of ascents, only 187 people reached the summit safely. Of these, only 5 were women.

It is believed that Kanchenjunga is a female mountain, which is why she kills climbers who dare to conquer her.
The mortality rate of this peak is 22%. Contrary to statistics, which tends to decline in the case of all other killer mountains, the opposite is true with Kanchenjunga. Year after year the mountain takes new lives. By the way, this mountain was wonderfully depicted by Nicholas Roerich in the painting of the same name. Google it.

Location: Switzerland, Alps.
Height: 3970 m.
The only western peak in our ranking. Despite its seemingly insignificant height, Eighar is considered one of the deadliest peaks in the world. Agar first submitted to man on August 11, 1858. Several routes lead to the top of the mountain. The most difficult route is considered to be the northern face of Eigar. It was first passed only on July 24, 1938. The difficulty of the route is due to the incredibly large difference in altitude and very unstable weather on the northern slope. Over the years of climbing, the peak claimed the lives of 64 people.

At one time, revered mountain climbers said that they had closed the book of discoveries in mountaineering - there was nothing more to do, they said. But the first car was a far cry from the fast cars we drive today. Legends of mountaineering have paved the way, now the new generation faces a difficult task: to go further difficult routes, or find other vertices.

Mianzimu (6054 m), Tibet, sacred mountain, there were no climbs. Photo by Janne Corax.

One of those who is interested in this is Simone Moro, by the way. Several years ago, Simone, after a series of explorations, attempted to climb Batura II, a peak that was said to be the highest peak yet to be conquered. Moreau was unable to reach the top - so this mountain still poses a challenge to climbers, as well as a number of other peaks that have not yet been climbed by man.

But what kind of mountains are these, and by what criteria should you choose them? Mountaineer, explorer and ExplorersWeb contributor Janne Corax compiled a list of the six highest untouched peaks, and added other interesting objects to it.

Happiness to be first

Janne Corax for ExplorersWeb

Unconquered peaks are always very attractive. Reaching the highest point that no one has ever been to is a special pleasure for a climber. In 1950, Herzog and Lachenal climbed Annapurna, the first eight-thousander climbed by humans, thereby opening the hunt for 13 other giants. Shisha Pangma was the last to fall under the feet of the Chinese team, 14 years later.

Now the high-altitude climbers turned their thoughts to slightly lower goals.

Namche Barwa, 7782m, a difficult mountain with extreme terrain and persistently bad weather conditions, repelled attempts until a Japanese team succeeded in reaching the summit in 1992. The climbers were also interested in the second peaks of eight-thousanders, and they gave up one after another - the last was Lhotse Middle, 8414 m, which was climbed by a strong Russian team in 2001.

Meili Ridge, view from the Tibetan Temple. Mianzimu is on the left, Meili Feng is the highest peak on the right. Photo by Janne Corax.

What's next?

Now the question is: which of the still unclimbed peaks are the most promising?

To answer this, you must first determine the selection criteria. Two of them are obvious: the mountain must be very high and unconquered. The third criterion is precisely the problem and causes much debate:

Real mountains / gendarmes on the ridge

Sometimes it is really a problem to distinguish between the big gendarme on the ridge and the real peak.

For example, many believe that the greatest difference in height between the peak of Lhotse Middle and lowest point the bridge that connects it to the higher top is actually a very small amount.

Unfortunately, there is no absolute standard, and some use a relative difference of 7% as a measure, while others use 400 m. If we take into account the 500 m limit as a compromise, then the list we need will look like this.

Six highest virgin peaks

Gangkar Punsum, 7570 m – peak, located in Bhutan, on the list of the highest mountain peaks is listed at number 40, and is without a doubt the “number 1” on our list. An educated person will guess that the mountain will remain under this number for now. In the mid-80s they tried to climb it, but all the expeditions returned empty-handed. In 1994, peaks in Bhutan were partially closed to climbing. And in 2003, the government decided to ban all types of climbing altogether. The reason for such actions lies in the area of ​​understanding local beliefs and traditions.

"Number 2" on our list - Saser Kangri II East, 7518 m. The mountain is located in Indian Kashmir and has never previously been of interest to climbers (at least there have been no expeditions to it). We climbed the third highest peak of the massif twice. It is difficult to obtain a permit to climb in this area, but it is possible. A person set foot on the main peak, 7672 m high, in 1973.

Kabru North, 7394 m - the highest point of the Kabru massif, which is essentially a subgroup of the Kanchenjunga massif - has not yet been conquered. Surprisingly, its lower southern peak fell back in 1935. A notable ascent was made by Conrad Cook, who reached the summit solo at 18 years old. This was a record for his age.
A Serbian team tried to climb Kabru North in 2004, but avalanches forced them to retreat.

Labuche Kang is a little-known group of peaks in Tibet. Main peak conquered in 1987 by a Japanese team. Eastern – Labuche Kang III– approximately 7250 m high and still awaiting its first climbers.

The impressive SE face of Karjiang - whose avalanche-prone slopes and complex faces repel all attempts of climbers. Photo from the archive of the Dutch Karjiang 2001 expedition.

Karjiang, 7221 m – also located in Tibet. They tried to climb it a couple of times, but no one had yet managed to set foot on its inaccessible peak. Extreme avalanche danger and high technical difficulty have so far made climbing attempts fruitless.

"Number 6" on our list - Tongshanjiabu, 7207 m. Rising on the Tibetan/Bhutan border. Koreans who climbed neighboring Shimokangri (7204 m) mentioned this peak in their expedition report and published a photo in Japanese Alpine News - so far this is the only available information about this mountain.

Statements and rumors

I should note that the six peaks listed above will give a head start to the rest in the debate when it comes to steepness and the first criterion - untouched by climbers. However, there are always rumors and statements on the mountain climbing stage. Wherever you go, locals or climbers will point you to the mountain and say, “Look here! No one has climbed it yet!”

On another level, famous mountaineers sometimes declare the goal of their expedition to be “the highest ever unconquered peaks" The last time I heard of something like this was when Moro & Ogwyn, an Italian-American duo, went on Batura II in 2004. The 7,762-meter-high giant in the Pakistani Karakoram was, according to them (and “scientific sources”), the highest peak not climbed by man. If you count a gendarme on a ridge with a 100m difference in height between its "top" and the main mountain, then this statement certainly contains some truth, however: there are other high points on the ridges, and some of which are higher than Batura II...*

Untouched Celebrities

Pilgrims rush to Mt. Kailash every year. They walk around the mountain with prayers, but never set foot on its slopes. Climbing is strictly prohibited. Photo by Project Himalaya.

The most famous of the unclimbed peaks are lower than those we named. Kailash in Western Tibet, the mountain is sacred to Hindus, Buddhists and followers of the Bön religion. No one has ever climbed to its top, and permits are not issued, since this place is a shrine.

Whole Meili ridge, known as Kawa Korpo, in the far northeast of Yunnan Province in China is also considered sacred to local residents. They tried to climb some of the peaks of the ridge at a time when climbing permits were issued. On this moment these mountains are closed to climbers.

Mianzimu in the Meili ridge is considered one of the most beautiful peaks world, as well as Kailash.

* In one of the interviews, when Simone was asked why he called Batura II the highest of the peaks that no man has climbed, he referred to the data of the Wolfgang Hichel expert and invited those interested in this issue to contact him personally by e-mail [email protected]

Translation by Elena Dmitrenko

The Republic of Nepal is known as the highest mountainous country in the world. On the northern side it is bordered by the Great Himalayan Range, famous for several peaks exceeding 8000 meters, including Everest - the highest on the planet (8848 meters).

Everest: who conquered the place of the gods

According to popular beliefs, this place was considered the abode of the gods, so no one thought of climbing there.

The top of the world even had special names: Chomolungma (“Mother - Goddess of Peace”) among the Tibetans and Sagarmatha (“Forehead of Heaven”) among the Nepalese. They began to call it Everest only in 1856, with which China, India, and the direct culprit of the renaming did not agree - the British aristocrat, geodesist, military man - George Everest, who was the first to determine the exact location of the Himalayan peak and its height. Disputes still arise from time to time in the press that a mountain located in Asia should not have a European name. Who was the first to conquer Everest - the peak that almost every climber dreams of?

The graceful beauty of the top of the world

Everest nature with rocks, snow and eternal ice menacingly stern and silently beautiful. Here, severe frosts almost always prevail (down to -60 °C), avalanches and snow falls are frequent, and the tops of the mountains are blown from all sides by fierce winds, the gust speed of which reaches 200 km/h. At an altitude of about 8 thousand meters, the “death zone” begins, so called for the lack of oxygen (30% of the amount present at sea level).

Risk for what?

However, despite such cruel natural conditions, conquering Everest has been and is the cherished dream of many climbers around the world. Standing at the top for a few minutes to go down in history, to look at the world from heavenly heights - isn’t this happiness? For such an unforgettable moment, climbers are ready to risk their own lives. And they take risks, knowing that they can remain in an untrodden land for eternity. Factors in the possible death of a person who ends up there are a lack of oxygen, frostbite, injury, heart failure, fatal accidents, and even the indifference of partners.

So, in 1996, a group of rock climbers from Japan met with three Indian climbers who were in a semi-fainting state. They died because the Japanese did not help their “competitors” and passed by indifferently. In 2006, 42 climbers, along with Discovery Channel television crews, indifferently walked past an Englishman who was slowly dying from hypothermia, and also tried to interview him and take photographs. As a result, the daredevil who risked conquering Everest alone died from frostbite and oxygen starvation. One of the Russian climbers, Alexander Abramov, explains such actions of his colleagues as follows: “At an altitude of more than 8,000 meters, a person striving to conquer the peak is completely occupied with himself and does not have extra strength to provide assistance in such extreme conditions.”

George Mallory's attempt: successful or not?

So who was the first to conquer Everest? The discovery of George Everest, who had never conquered this mountain, was the impetus for the unbridled desire of many climbers to reach the top of the world, which George Mallory, Everest’s compatriot, was the first to decide on (in 1921).

Unfortunately, his attempt was unsuccessful: heavy snowfalls, strong winds and lack of experience in climbing to such a height stopped the British climber. However, the unattainable peak beckoned to Mallory, and he made two more unsuccessful ascents (in 1922 and 1924). During the last expedition, his teammate Andrew Irwin disappeared without a trace. One of the expedition members, Noel Odell, was the last to see them through a gap in the clouds rising to the top. Only after 75 years, an American search expedition discovered Mallory’s remains at an altitude of 8155 meters. Judging by their location, the climbers fell into the abyss. Also in scientific circles, when studying the same remains and their location, an assumption arose that George Mallory was the first person to conquer Everest. Andrew Irwin's body was never found.

The years 1924-1938 were marked by the organization of a number of more expeditions, although unsuccessful. After them, Everest was forgotten for some time, because the Second World War began.

Pioneers

Who conquered Everest first? The Swiss decided to storm the unconquered peak in 1952, but the maximum height they climbed stopped at 8,500 meters; 348 meters was beyond the reach of climbers due to bad weather conditions.

If we assume that Mallory was unable to reach the top of the world's highest mountain, then the question of who was the first to conquer Everest can be safely answered - New Zealander Edmund Hillary in 1953, and not by himself, but with an assistant - Sherpa Norgay Tenzing .

By the way, Sherpas (from Tibetan, “sher” - east, “pa” - people) are the very people without whom, perhaps, hardly anyone would have been able to reach such a coveted peak. They are a mountain people who settled in Nepal more than 500 years ago. It was the Sherpas who were the easiest to climb Everest, since this mountain is their homeland, where every path is familiar from childhood.

Sherpas are reliable helpers on the way to the top

Sherpas are very good-natured people who are not capable of causing offense to anyone. For them, killing an ordinary mosquito or field mouse is considered a terrible sin, which must be prayed for very strongly. The Sherpas have their own language, but nowadays they almost all speak English. This is the great merit of Edmund Hillary, the first conqueror of Everest. As a token of gratitude for the invaluable help, he built a school at his own expense in one of the main villages.

Although, with all the penetration of civilization into the lives of the Sherpas, their way of life remains largely patriarchal. Traditional settlements are stone two-story houses, on the ground floor of which livestock is usually kept: yaks, sheep, goats, and the family itself is usually located on the second floor; there is also a kitchen, bedrooms, and a living room. Minimum furniture. Thanks to pioneer mountaineers, electricity recently appeared; They still don’t have gas or any kind of central heating. They use yak dung as fuel for cooking, which is first collected and dried on stones.

The inaccessible Mount Everest... Who was the first to conquer this distant peak: or George Mallory? Scientists are still looking for the answer today, as well as the answer to the question of what year Everest was conquered: in 1924 or 1953.

Everest Conquest Records

Everest has succumbed to more than one person; even records were set for a temporary ascent to the top. For example, in 2004, Sherpa Pemba Dorj reached it from base camp in 10 hours 46 minutes, while most climbers take up to several days to complete the same operation. The fastest person to descend the mountain in 1988 was the Frenchman Jean-Marc Boivin, although he made the jump on a paraglider.

The women who conquered Everest are in no way inferior to men, also stubbornly and persistently overcoming every meter of the climb to the top. The first representative of the weak half of humanity in 1975 was the Japanese Junko Tabei, 10 days later - Phantog, a Tibetan climber.

Who was the first senior person to conquer Everest? The oldest conqueror of the peak is 76-year-old Nepalese Min Bahadur Sherkhan, and the youngest is 13-year-old American Jordan Romero. Of interest is the persistence of another young conqueror of the “top of the world” - 15-year-old Temba Tseri Sherpa, whose first attempt was unsuccessful due to lack of strength and frostbite on both hands. Upon his return, Tembe had 5 fingers amputated, which did not stop him; he conquered Everest on his second ascent.

Among the disabled is also the first person to conquer Everest. This is Mark Inglis, who rose to the top of the world in 2006 using prosthetics.

The hero even joked that, unlike other climbers, he would not get frostbite on his toes. Moreover, he had frostbitten feet earlier, while trying to climb the most high peak New Zealand - Cook's Peak, after which they were amputated.

Apparently Everest has a certain magical power, if hundreds of climbers rush towards him. The one who conquered him once returned more than once, trying to do it again.

Alluring peak - Everest

Who was the first to conquer Everest? Why are people so drawn to this place? There are quite a lot of reasons explaining this. Tickling nerves, lack thrills, the desire to test oneself, the boredom of everyday life….

Texas millionaire Dick Bass is the man who conquered Everest. He, not being a professional climber, was not going to spend years carefully preparing for a dangerous climb and decided to conquer the peak of the world right away, as they say: here and now. Bass was ready to pay any money to anyone who would help make his seemingly unrealistic dream come true.

Dick Bass was still able to conquer the top of Everest, and the expedition’s assistants were an assembled team that provided the millionaire with comfort while climbing; people carried all the cargo, tents, water, food. So to speak, the ascent was all-inclusive, and this served as the beginning of commercial travel to the summit.

Since then, since 1985, anyone can conquer the peak if they have enough money to do so. Money. Today, the cost of one such ascent varies from 40 to 85 thousand dollars, depending on the side of the climb up the mountain. If the journey takes place from Nepal, then it is more expensive, because a special permission from the king is required, costing 10 thousand dollars. The rest of the amount is paid for organizing the expedition.

And there was even a wedding...

In 2005, Mona Mule and Pem Georgi had a wedding on top of the world. Having climbed up, the newlyweds took off the traditional colored garlands around their necks for a few minutes. Pem then anointed the forehead of his bride with scarlet powder, symbolizing marriage. The newlyweds kept their act a secret from everyone: parents, acquaintances, expedition partners, because they were not sure of the successful outcome of the planned event.

So how many people have summited Everest? Surprisingly, today there are more than 4,000 people. And the most optimal period for climbing gentle weather conditions considered spring and autumn. True, such an idyll does not last long - only a few weeks, which climbers try to use as fruitfully as possible.

According to statistics, every tenth of those who storm Everest dies, and most of the accidents occur during the descent, when there is practically no strength left. Theoretically, Everest can be conquered in a few days. In practice, gradualness and an optimal combination of ascents and rests are required.

We warn you: the article is full of beauty and aesthetics, which makes the next eight unconquered peaks even more desirable. Especially if you are an extreme sports enthusiast, love heights, and have been looking for thrills for a long time.

Gangkhar Puensum

  • Height: 7,570 meters
  • Location: China-Bhutan border
  • Why not conquered: stupid laws

Gangkhar Puensum lies on the disputed border between China and Bhutan. It is certainly not disputed that Gangkhar Puensum is the highest peak yet unclimbed. Four attempts were made in the 1980s, after which Bhutan passed a law prohibiting mountaineering at altitudes above 6 km.

Source: wikipedia.org

North Face of Masherbrum 4

  • Height: 7.821 m
  • Location: Pakistan
  • Why not conquered: extreme difficulty

Masherbrum was conquered back in 1960 along a fairly simple route. But there is a wall that no one has ever climbed. The reason is still the same - the route is “unrealistically extreme”.


Source: supercoolpics.co

Mount Siple

  • Height: 3,110 m
  • Location: Siple Island, Antarctica
  • Why not conquered: harsh climate

This peak is located in Antarctica, and the main difficulty in conquering it is not the route, but the low temperature and distance from the civilized world. It is suspected that Mount Siple is actually an extinct volcano covered by a glacier.


Source: wikipedia.org

Machapuchare

  • Height: 6,998 m
  • Location: north central Nepal;
  • Why it was not conquered: religion and law

The most beautiful mountain peak, thanks to its steep slopes, stands out clearly against the background of the rest of the massif called Annapurna, once almost surrendered to the mercy of the courage of climbers. The 1957 expedition, led by Jimmy Roberts, stopped just fifty meters from the summit. Conquer one of the most beautiful mountains The Himalayas were thwarted by a promise made to the Nepalese government.

The point is that in Hindu beliefs, it is at the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of the religion, Shiva, lives. Despite the fact that Roberts' team kept its promise, Nepal's top officials immediately closed Machapuchare to any visits.


Source: green-travel.biz

Kailash

The Tibetan six-thousander is considered sacred mountain among representatives of four major religions at once - Hindus, Buddhists, Jains and adherents of a faith called Bon. Despite the fact that Kailash is under the jurisdiction of the Chinese government, which occupied Tibet, it is the sacred status of the peak that has not yet allowed it to be conquered.

All known attempts to climb the mountain have failed for one reason or another. For example, the famous climber Reinhold Messner, who received permission from the Chinese authorities to conquer Kailash, subsequently abandoned the climb, and the Spanish expedition of 2000, which bought a pass for a significant sum, was stopped by thousands of pilgrims who blocked the route and protests from the UN.


Source: wikipedia.org

Tongshanjiabu

  • Height: 7,207 m
  • Location: Central Himalayas, 12 km northwest of Kangphu Kang
  • Why not conquered: laws

The peak, which reaches 7,207 meters into the sky, is also located on the constantly disputed Tibetan-Bhutanese border. Not a single attempt was made to climb Tongshanjiabu, even before the law “everything above six thousand is prohibited.” After him, of course, and even more so. At the same time, the Korean expedition took neighboring Shimokangri, which was lucky to find itself completely on the Chinese side.


Elbrus, Kilimanjaro and other famous peaks up to 7 km high, climbing which does not require mountaineering training...

1. Lenin Peak - 7134 m

First recorded ascent - 1928

This mountain was one of the highest in the USSR, and for five such peaks, Soviet climbers received the title “Snow Leopard”. Now, when the mountain tourism industry has reached such a stage of development that a more or less prepared “teapot” can be dragged with oxygen even to Everest, Lenin Peak is usually called the most accessible seven-thousander.

It is accessible, firstly, because from Osh you can drive by car almost to the very foot of the mountain, and from there you can carry your equipment on pack horses to the base camp. Secondly, the classic route through the Razdelnaya peak does not require serious technical work: by and large, it is enough to be able to walk and listen to the guide. But low temperatures, thin air, the need to wait for the weather at serious altitudes became the reason for failure for many - statistics say that the “most accessible” seven-thousander allows only every tenth person to climb.

The key to success here is excellent physical shape, good weather and proper acclimatization. If the first depends on the climber himself, and the second does not depend on anyone, then the third is entirely in the hands of a good high-altitude guide. Therefore, in July, dozens of climbers flock to the Alai Valley, wandering from camp to camp, making training trips, attempting assaults and waiting for the weather. Here you can meet those for whom this is the first seven-thousander, and those who are here “pacing” in front of the formidable Pobeda Peak. There is never a dull moment in the camps or on the route - the tan from the snow will give your face a purple tint, and the majestic landscapes of the Pamirs are beautiful from any height.

Where: Pamir (Kyrgyzstan)

Nearest airport: Osh (OSS)

Starting points: Achik-Tash base camp (3500 m)

Season: July to August

Climbing duration/cost: from 21 days/from €200

Who organizes: Three-week routes from June 20 to September 15 are organized by Lenalptours in St. Petersburg. This company also has its own base camp. You can order only a transfer or only accommodation with meals from them. Programs with transfers from Bishkek and Osh are done here, and applications for climbing in 2010 are accepted here. Central Asia Travel, which grew out of the Tashkent section, has two camps, 20 guides and programs of varying degrees of intensity. mountain tourism dating back to the times of the USSR: they have representative offices in Osh, Tashkent and Moscow. Citizens of the Russian Federation do not have any difficulties with visas and passes to the border zone: but they should also complete the documents at least 3 weeks in advance so as not to waste time on the spot. It is best to plan your ascent at least several months in advance: in this case, you can get recommendations on preparation from your guide.

2. Mera Peak - 6476 m

First recorded ascent - 1953

Lukla Airport is called the most dangerous in the world - landing strip runs up the mountain between the houses, and above it, in the breaks in the clouds, they masterfully maneuver aircrafts with the words Yeti or Buddha Airlines. The classic route from the Mera-La pass, although it is ice, does not require mountaineering training, and the necessary skills are developed during acclimatization trips. It is acclimatization that becomes the decisive factor: do not believe the agent who says that you can “run” to the summit from base camp (5300 m) in one day - the chances will be 50/50 at best. To ensure success, you need to spend the night in a camp at a height of 5800 and from there advance for the assault. In this case, 9 out of 10 people reach the top, who get a luxurious view of 5 out of the 6 highest high mountains planets: Everest, Kanchenjungu, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu. From here you can see the beautiful Ama-Dablam pyramid, the inaccessible Baruntse and Chamlang and other equally famous peaks of the Himalayas. Although a successful climb to Mera Peak is unlikely to amaze an experienced climber, it is at this peak that you can take a magnificent photo against the backdrop of the harsh wall of Everest.

Where: Himalayas (Nepal)

Nearest airport: Lukla (LUA)

Starting points: Lukla

Season: April to May, October to November

Climbing duration/cost: from 20 days/from $1300 per person in a group of 6 people

Who organizes: It’s better not to even try to cope with the Nepalese bureaucracy on your own: they will ask you for permission to climb, permission to enter national park etc. Only the Nepalese themselves can get this, so it’s better to entrust everything to them. You can organize trekking while in Kathmandu through Royal Mountain Travel; The group for May 2010 from Russia is now being assembled in Alpindustry. The highly respected www.southasiatreks.com, which has a huge staff of guides and porters, sends many groups to the region and can always fit a few travelers into an already forming team.

3. Kilimanjaro - 5895 m

First recorded ascent - 1889

Actually, Kilimanjaro has several peaks: the lowest - 4005 m - is the extinct volcano Shira, opposite it is the peak of 5183 m, where serious climbers climb. And the highest is the dormant Kibo volcano with a crater almost 3 km in diameter and Uhuru Peak, which everyone climbs.

There are 6 routes leading up. The most popular, easiest and most comfortable - with overnight stays in huts - is the Marangu route. The second most popular - more difficult, more picturesque, with beautiful rocks - is the Machame path. Rongai is the only route from the north, starting from the Kenyan border: the least popular among people, so you can even meet elephants on the trail. Lemosho and Shira are two variations (the second is more difficult) of one route across the Shira plateau: you get to the starting point in jeeps, and you can get to the finish by two roads, depending on the weather and the well-being of the group. The Umbwe route is the shortest and most difficult: in the middle it involves an assault on the rocky wall of Barranco; due to the sharp rise in altitude, this is where they most often fail. The Mweka Trail is for downhill only. From an altitude of 4800 m, lifeless lava fields and completely lunar landscapes begin, behind them is the zone of eternal snow, sung by Hemingway. By the way, the snowy top of Africa is melting faster and faster every year, so more and more people come every year to look at it and touch the African snow with their own hands.

Everyone meets at the top, at the sign: “Congratulations, you are here - Uhuru Peak, 5895 m.” Every day during the season, hundreds of trekkers storm the mountain, but about a third return with nothing: despite the absence of technical difficulties, the altitude and sharp temperature changes do their job. There is heavy traffic on the routes, it is impossible to get lost, but independent ascents to Kilimanjaro are prohibited: tourists are allowed into the national park only when accompanied by a local guide.

Where: East African Plateau (Tanzania)

Nearest airport: Kilimanjaro (JRO)

Starting point: Moshi, Arusha, Loitokitok

Season: December to March, July to October

Climbing duration/cost: from 6 days/from $700 in a group of 5-6 people

Who organizes: You can hire a guide and porters literally at the gates of the park - in principle, they can carry the tourist himself to the top, or drag his equipment, or carry a dry toilet for him: it depends only on the desires of the climber. The guide is responsible for the speed of movement, the choice of route and the success of the ascent: the surest way to find the right guide is to watch for a group leaving the park with tired but satisfied faces, ask whether their guide was good, and immediately hire him. You can order a guide in advance from any major agency - then the price will be twice as much, but it will include transfer from the airport, meals, overnight stays in hotels, and entry fee to the national park.

4. Elbrus - western peak 5642 m, eastern - 5621 m

The first recorded ascent was 1829 ( eastern peak), 1874 (west summit)

Elbrus has long been challenging Mont Blanc for the right to be called the highest point in Europe. The debate, of course, is not about the heights, which are obvious, but about whether the Caucasus is really located in Europe. Be that as it may, this is one of the most popular routes for mountain tourists around the world. In summer in good weather up, as if along a wide avenue, dozens of people are walking and on the path you can hear speech in all languages, including Japanese, and somewhere in Amsterdam you can meet a cheerful old cyclist in a commemorative T-shirt with the inscription Elbrus 5642.

The classic route is really not technically difficult - you can climb to an altitude of 3700 m from the south by cable car, spend the night there in the Bochki shelter, and the next night ride a snowcat (mountain crawler tractor) to an altitude of 4100 m and from there cover the remaining one and a half kilometers in crampons and an ice ax, meeting one of the most beautiful sunrises of my life. The decision to climb a particular peak extinct volcano is taken at the saddle - it depends on the weather, the well-being of the participants and the condition of the slope. With good weather and general luck, the ascent takes about 13 hours and in the evening the group is already accepting congratulations at dinner in Terskol. The guides say that any persistent and physically healthy person can climb Elbrus. We drove to the top by motorcycle and even by car. The main thing is to be lucky with the weather.

Where: Caucasus (Russia)

Nearest airport: Nalchik (NAL), Mineral water(MRV)

Starting points: Terskol village

Season: June to August

Climbing duration/cost: from 6 days/from 10,000 rubles

Who organizes: You can contact the most experienced guide Kirill Anisimov and the famous head of the avalanche service Igor Komarov from www.snowadventure.ru. Both companies are based in Terskol.

5. Ararat - 5165 m

First recorded ascent - 1829

Bureaucratic delays are the only difficulty that awaits tourists. At the Iskhafan Hotel, where they usually stay, there is always chaos: they definitely forgot to send permission to someone, or even turned away the whole group. Usually all problems are resolved in favor of visitors, and the mountain itself does not require any technical skills in the warm season: however, the Kurds who work here as guides are afraid of snow, but they hang the railings properly and sing cheerful songs. The ascent plan is usually as follows: two acclimatization trips in two days - one of them to Little Ararat (3925 m) - and an assault on the third day. And the short hike to the very top, where the eternal snow lies, should be viewed as an adventure, and not as hard work. There are even mobile phones working upstairs - so you can call your friends and accept congratulations. However, due to the strong wind, you won’t be able to stand at the top for long - you need to quickly examine Armenia, Turkey and Iran lying below, the tornadoes walking in the valley and the giant shadow of Ararat covering the earth. The question of whether Noah's Ark really landed here remains open.

Where: Armenian Highlands (Türkiye)

Nearest airport: Van (VAN)

Starting point: Dogubayazit town (Bayazet)

Season: June to September

Climbing duration/cost: 4 days/from €450 per person in a group of 6 people

Who organizes: For those who don’t want to organize anything themselves, there is Alpindustria.

6. Mont Blanc - 4808 m

First recorded ascent - 1786

August 8, 1786 can be considered the birthday of mountaineering as a pastime, and Mont Blanc is the birthplace of this fun for “the strong in spirit, the weak in mind.” Now, walking along the classic route from Saint-Gervais, you can no longer understand how hard this route cost the pioneers - these days, in good weather, the traffic here is as dense as on the Champs-Elysees.

The legend of Soviet mountaineering, Mikhail Khergiani, recalled his climb to Mont Blanc: “There are so many people going there - I’ve never seen so many! We put our hands in our pockets, ice picks under our arms and run. It took us five hours to get to the top.” By the way, the total altitude gain in 5-6 hours is very impressive - more than a kilometer, so a “walk” that is not difficult from a technical point of view requires competent acclimatization, endurance and a certain stubbornness. Also keep in mind that it is not customary for European guides to expose clients to any inconvenience: for example, if there is a strong wind blowing on the pre-summit ridge, but climbing is still possible, the guide may suggest returning and waiting for milder weather. Therefore, it is better to discuss with him in advance what is more important to you - comfort or a successful ascent. Of course, such agreements do not apply to potentially dangerous episodes. Another way is no less popular - by lift from Chamonix, with an overnight stay in the Cosmic hut and departure for the assault at one or two in the morning. A line of headlamps in the dark moves through the peaks of Mont Blanc de Taculle and Mont Maudi to Mont Blanc itself: the dawn with a panorama of the Alps ruddy in the morning sun becomes a reward for those who are ready to overcome several gains and losses of altitude in a row. The funniest thing is that at the top, where they take pictures and drink champagne, Alpine jackdaws calmly soar in the air currents - and beg people for chocolate.

Where: Alps (France)

Nearest airport: Geneva (GVA)

Starting points: Chamonix and Saint-Gervais

Season: May to September

Climbing duration/cost: from 6 days/from €800 in a group of 4-5 people

Who organizes: All places in all huts for the whole season are usually reserved by guides. Therefore, if you do not want to spend the night in tents, it is best to contact guides in Chamonix or Saint-Gervais in advance.

7. Belukha - 4506 m

First recorded ascent - 1914

Climbing Belukha still needs to be earned - approaches to it take almost half of the total time allotted for the climb. The trail first goes along the boiling mountain river and along forested foothills, and all the difficulties begin the moment the snow appears. Belukha got its name because of the constant snow cover - even in summer, despite its not very impressive height, its top sparkles under the sun like a sugarloaf.

Before entering the ice route, climbers undergo instructions. Of course, the instructors lay out the trail and put up the railings - tourists can only follow their instructions and pray for good weather (it usually rains in the afternoon).

The most impressive section on the classic route is the Delaunay Pass: 300 meters of ice at an angle of 45-55 degrees. They pass it in bunches and wearing crampons, the pictures from here turn out quite heroic. The chances of getting caught in a storm on Belukha are quite high - the weather in the mountains is always unpredictable and can make even the simplest path dangerous. Therefore, on Belukha it is customary to argue that this mountain, sacred to the Altai people, allows someone in easily, but blocks the way for others with snowfall and winds.

Because of this mystical aura, Belukha attracts not only climbers, but also fans of Roerich, who began his trans-Himalayan expedition from here, as well as seekers of Shambhala and other enthusiastic people. Therefore, when planning your trip to Altai, it is worth checking whether, for example, the end of the world has been announced in the near future - chaos will reign around Belukha due to the crowds of pilgrims.

Where: Altai (Russia)

Nearest airport: Barnaul (BAX)

Starting point: village. Tungur, s. Jazator

Season: June to September

Climbing duration/cost: from 12 days/21,000 rubles per person in a group of 6 people

Who organizes: The Vysotnik base, from where the walking and horseback routes to Belukha begin, is owned by the St. Petersburg company LenAlpTours. They guide you along the classic route and give you a badge “For climbing Belukha.”

8. Fujiyama - 3776 m

Climbing the mountain, sacred to the Japanese, became possible only a century and a half ago - previously only pilgrims climbed here, but now during the season crowds of people come to the top every day: some in shorts and flip-flops, and some with oxygen cylinders. There are four routes - one from each side of the world; all of which are described in detail by tour guide Tomoyuki Tokinawa.

The most popular route is a serpentine route across the entire mountain from the north from the town of Kawaguchiko, from where a bus runs to station No. 5 at an altitude of 2300 m. Further to the 10th station there is a well-maintained path with railings, steps, Coca-Cola machines, guest houses, shops and other attributes of the most popular place among tourists. Thanks in principle high speed train from the capital and by bus from Kawaguchiko, the entire trip to the top of Fuji from Tokyo and back can be done in one day. But if you decide to watch the sunrise on main mountain Land of the Rising Sun, then you can spend the night at the 7th or 8th station, and in the morning before dawn go to the top.

If you don’t want to climb Mount Fuji in a crowd, you should go to the top immediately after the official season closes. In fact, this only means the closure of the shops along the road and the post office at the top. In winter, climbing is also possible - but wearing crampons, ice axes and a guide. And if you go up to Fuji at the end of spring and don’t be too lazy to take a snowboard or skis with you, then you can go down to Kawaguchiko in just half an hour.

Where: Japan

Nearest airport: Tokyo (NRT)

Starting points: Kawaguchiko

Season: July to August

Climbing duration/cost: from 10 hours/from ¥2000

Who organizes: It is not difficult to organize a trip to Fuji yourself using the information on the website of the National Tourism Organization of Japan.

9. Etna - 3340 m

First recorded ascent - 1st century BC. e.

The tallest and active volcano in Europe, it is also the oldest known to mankind - 500 BC, Empedocles lived on the edge of its crater, who was going to build a tower here to observe volcanic activity. The remains of some ancient Greek building on the slope of Etna have actually been discovered, and the shelter from which the walking path to the top begins is called the “Tower of the Philosopher.” An SUV brings tourists to the Tower. He picks people up at the top station of the cable car that leads from the Sapienza shelter (near the town of Nicolosi, which can be reached by bus). Thus, if you subtract from the height above sea level everything that is overcome by various transport, it turns out that you only have to walk 360 meters or so to the top. It’s cool at the top, a cloud can descend (it’s easy to get lost in it), and the evaporation of the active volcano does its job: this hike cannot be called a recreational walk. It is better to go to the volcano with a guide: he knows exactly where the most beautiful views open from, where the slope has not yet cooled down after a recent eruption, which cave you can climb into without danger, and why the smoke is coming not from the central crater, but from the neighboring one.

Where: o. Sicily (Italy)

Nearest airport: Catania (CTA)

Starting points: Catania

Season: April to November

Climbing duration/cost: from 5 hours/from €50

Who organizes: You need to go to Etna with an Italian guide or obtain permission in advance from the Italian Mountaineering Club or its branch in Catania.

10. Olympus - 2917 m

First recorded ascent - 1913

The abode of the gods includes many mountains different heights- there are 46 peaks above 2000 m and 47 peaks above 1000 m. The highest are Mytikas (2917 m), Skolio (2911) and Stefani (2909 m). The classic route leads through Skala Peak (2866 m), from where you can go to Skolio or Mitikas - everyone, of course, goes to the highest point of the massif: you can see its popularity by reading the magazine hidden in a stainless steel container at the top. In good weather, you can see Thessaloniki, Chalkidiki and even the islands off the Turkish coast from here. It’s cool at the top, so even if it was +35 at sea, you need to take a warm jacket and a raincoat with you: the weather changes rapidly, and there is more precipitation than in all of Greece (the neighboring peak Stefani is still considered the throne of Zeus the Thunderer). In addition, you will need good trekking boots or sneakers that support the ankle tightly: you can climb Mytikas even in beach flip-flops, but the advantages of the right shoes show themselves on the descent.

You don't need a guide - the routes are well marked: even where the trail actually ends and the climbing begins, there are stones marked where to step and which to hold on to. By the way, the E4 markers that you will see along the road are not the Olympic trail, but a trans-European track with a length of more than 10,000 km, invented by the Association of European Tramps. So, having descended from Olympus, the journey can be continued.

Where: Greece

Nearest airport: Thessaloniki (SKG)

Starting points: Litochoro

Season: May to October

Climbing duration/cost: 2 days/free

Who organizes: If you wish, you can enlist the support of the alpine club in Litochoro. The shelters - there are nine in total - operate on weekends during the season, and every day during the peak season (July to August). Shelter A (tel. +30 23 52 08 18 00) is located right on the road, a kilometer above the start of the trek. Shelter C and its owner are appreciated by climbers (tel. +30 69 37 36 16 89). Highest of all - 2,700 m - is the shelter named after the pioneer of Greek mountaineering Yozos Apostolidis. In all shelters you can shelter from bad weather, eat and spend the night.

11. Sinai - 2285 m

The first recorded ascent was the 13th century BC. e.

One of the most visited mountains in the world: hundreds of tourists and pilgrims climb it every day. The latter choose a steep path, which consists of a stone staircase with steps of different widths and heights - they say there are about 4000 of them, no one can count them accurately. Since the ascent begins at night (to catch the dawn at the top), tourists usually choose a gentle path. There are rest tents here that sell hot drinks, sweets and rent blankets. And at an altitude of 2000 m, this road connects with the pilgrimage stairs. By the way, it is better to go down the stairs - in daylight it is not at all difficult to walk along them. Previously, there were ten “gates to heaven”; at each one you had to confess your sins according to one of the commandments. Now only two gates remain. The trail also passes the Church of the Prophet Elijah and the Chapel of the Virgin Mary - you can get inside only with an accompanying person from the monastery of St. Catherine, which is clearly visible from the path. This is the oldest Christian monastery - built in 527. It’s good to go into it after climbing, and if you find enough strength in yourself, you can also climb Mount St. Catherine - it’s located next door.

Where: Sinai Mountains, Egypt

Nearest airport: Sharm el-Sheikh (SSH)

Starting points: monastery of St. Catherine

Season: September to November, March to May

Climbing duration/cost: from 4 hours/from $30

Who organizes: Climbing Sinai without a local guide is prohibited. It makes sense to join an already formed group, accompanied by Bedouin guides, or book an excursion at your hotel or the nearest travel agency in Dahab or Sharm el-Sheikh. Remember: organized tour will eliminate the need to bargain with the driver and guides. You need to take your passport and warm clothes with you.

12. Vesuvius - 1281 m

First recorded ascent - unknown

The only one active volcano known in mainland Europe since 79 AD. e., when a monstrous eruption buried Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabia under a layer of lava and ash, and at the same time destroyed the main cone of the volcano with an explosion. Now the mountain is crowned by a ridge, and a new crater is already smoking inside it. Buses and taxis go up from Herculaneum station. There are only a few tens of meters to go on foot - this is not a climb at all, but a walk along a good, only very dusty road with railings. Opens from above beautiful view on Bay of Naples, and under your feet you come across pieces of pumice, which everyone tries to grab as a souvenir. Professional - the best we can offer our clients on the Bordelero website. Last eruption, by the way, happened only half a century ago, the volcano is still active, and it is often closed to visitors: not even an eruption, but toxic fumes can be unsafe.

Where: Italy

Nearest airport: Naples (NAP)

Starting point: Naples

Season: all year round

Climbing duration/cost: from 1 hour/€6.5

Who organizes: You can climb Vesuvius on your own.

 

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