Where to go in Belgrade, Serbia. One day in Belgrade: an unusual journey from burundukmedia. Zemun - an Austro-Hungarian piece of Belgrade

Belgrade – the city that has become the heart Balkan Peninsula and the capital of majestic Serbia. Its history dates back to the 3rd century BC. One of the most ancient centers of Europe was founded by the Celts at the place where the Danube and Sava rivers connected. Since then, the city walls have seen the Romans, Celts, Turks, Byzantines and even the Franks, which has contributed to the emergence of Belgrade's attractions with an interweaving of Western and Eastern culture, creating a special atmosphere and charm of the capital.

Belgrade, as we can see it today, is a city of contrasts, uniquely combining modern buildings with medieval fortresses, palaces and castles. However, instead of the expected dissonance, the capital enchants, bewitches, and makes you fall in love. Having visited the major cultural, scientific and economic center of Serbia, it is worth making a dense a tourist route, which will allow you to get acquainted with as many unique attractions of Belgrade in Serbia as possible.

What sights of Belgrade to see first?

The charismatic and colorful capital of Serbia has a long and exciting history that has enriched the city with dozens of treasures. Almost every era has left its mark in the form of sculptures, architectural treasures or ancient picturesque streets. To see the best sights of Belgrade and enjoy the diversity of the city's culture, even a few days may not be enough. You will want to see the famous Belgrade Fortress with the picturesque Kalemegdan Park spread around it, as well as the amazing pedestrian street of Prince Mihailov. It is impossible not to visit the fascinating Bohemian quarter of Skadarlija, the largest temple of St. Sava, the “House of Flowers” ​​- the mausoleum in which the ruler of Yugoslavia Josip Broz rests - but this is only a small part of the “treasures” that the Serbian heart conceals.
To have time to visit all the most interesting places in Belgrade, check out the top 10 top attractions in the city.

Top 10 main attractions in Belgrade

Excursions to the sights of Belgrade in Russian

To see all the sights of Belgrade in Serbia, especially if you don’t have much time, you need to have an accompanying person who knows the city well. Even with a map, it’s very difficult to navigate the area and create a route that won’t take more time than necessary. Therefore, in order not to waste time on exhausting searches and travel, but to move along a clearly designed route, gaining new emotions and impressions, it would be more rational to book an excursion with a professional guide.

Full sightseeing tour in an original way colorful city, can be completed in 6-8 hours. Of course, a good guide will provide time for rest and snacks. Tourists can choose excursions to suit their taste, this can be an overview of the sights of old or modern Belgrade, on foot, by transport, and even including an underground route through caves, tunnels and galleries running under the city.

The easiest and most convenient way to book excursions is online. On this popular service you can get acquainted with the whole variety of excursions to the sights of Belgrade, plan your time and book a tour on the desired date in advance.

Sights of Belgrade and its surroundings with photos and descriptions

The main attractions of Belgrade are located in both the old and new town. Stari Grad is the most old part the city in which centuries ago, the nobility, representing the cream of bourgeois society, strolled. There are museums, the most ancient temples and palaces in Serbia, as well as a kind of Broadway - the famous Skadarlija quarter.

The modern city of Novi Grad is located south of the Kalemegdan fortress. This part of the city is devoid of ancient architecture and cozy narrow streets, but is filled with alleys, boulevards and picturesque parks. It is interesting to look at the huge fair complex, the Church of St. Mark, whose image is decorated with most travel agency posters, as well as the tomb of Marshal Tito and much more.

Top 25 attractions in Belgrade

1. Belgrade Kalemegdan Fortress

Even those who have never been a guest of Serbia have heard a lot about the Kalemegdan fortress. This is perhaps the most famous and one of the most ancient attractions of Stari Grad. The 125-meter-high fortress was built at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers. The walls of the fortress surround two parts of the city - lower and upper, which are filled with medieval treasures: the ruins of Roman settlements, the remains of a Byzantine castle, artillery sites, courtyards, small churches and outbuildings.
Today, visiting the fortress, you can get to one of the historical exhibitions and even a real knightly tournament. Having been in this memorial place, you can’t help but take a walk in the park that surrounds the fortress. There is a city zoo and a military museum there.

2. Temple of St. Sava

Not a single tourist will pass by such a landmark of Belgrade as the Serbian Orthodox Cathedral of St. Sava. Architects of the time were inspired by the Byzantine Hagia Sophia in Constantinople, which explains the grandeur and simplicity characteristic of Byzantine architecture. It was on the site of the temple that the Ottoman ruler ordered the burning of the relics of Saint Sava. The largest temple located in historical place, evokes a special atmosphere and makes you truly admire the ancient majestic structure.

3. Skadarlija Quarter

The cobblestone block of Skadarlija is the most famous street in the city. It is not only beautiful, but has its own history, as it was a rich area for bohemians back in the last century. This is, without exaggeration, one of the most atmospheric places in Serbia, immersing you in the beginning of the 20th century. The street, located on a slope, is closed to motorists, and vaguely resembles Moscow's Arbat or Montmartre in Paris. On both sides of the street there are old antique shops with old signs, cozy cafes, small restaurants, art shops and trade stalls. Here you can enjoy the charming atmosphere and the performance of street musicians, drink coffee on the summer terrace of one of the restaurants, and also buy Serbian souvenirs.

4. Nikola Tesla Museum

In 1952, the government of Yugoslavia decided to perpetuate the memory of the great Serbian scientist Nikola Tesla, a man who made an invaluable contribution to the development of modern science. For these purposes, an entire building was allocated as a museum in honor of the inventor. Museum visitors can see the scientist’s personal belongings, models of inventions, photographs, books and works of Tesla. An interesting and slightly frightening museum, it will open the world of the greatest inventions and even allow you to see with your own eyes the work of some of them, for example, entering a high-frequency field.

5. House of Flowers

One of the historical attractions of Belgrade is the House of Flowers. But this is not at all Botanical Garden, as one might think from the name, is the mausoleum of Josip Broz Tito, an engineer who challenged the powerful dictators of Europe, including Stalin and Hitler. The insolence and odiousness of the Yugoslav ruler made Tito a colorful figure in revolutionary history. The “Leader” is in a closed sarcophagus, and around him is a garden with an abundance of flowers. This is explained by the fact that during his lifetime, the ruler passionately loved gardening. The halls display weapons, saddles, personal belongings of Tito, as well as gifts that the ruler received from the heads of other states.

6. Prince Mikhail Street

Having visited the capital of Serbia, the first attraction of Belgrade may be the main pedestrian street of the city, which was named in memory of Prince Michael III. The street is located in Stari Grad between the famous Kalemegdan Park and Republican Square. All the creative “foam” of artists and musicians gather here. Tourists will see many souvenir shops, shops, restaurants and cafes. The street is also filled with sculptures and monuments, imbuing the atmosphere of a living street. It is worth noting the unique interweaving of architectural styles: these are buildings in the Renaissance, Romanticism, Art Nouveau and other styles.

7. Kalemegdan Park

Kalemegdan Park, the same one that surrounds the famous Belgrade Fortress, is considered one of the oldest parks not only in Serbia, but also in Europe. This picturesque, green park, which is a historical landmark of Belgrade, welcomes tourists with winding, cobbled alleys, large old trees, massive stone staircases, amazing landscape design and a lot of sculptures that give this place a special mystery and grandeur.

8. Belgrade Zoo

The very center of Belgrade delights tourists with the city zoo. Its uniqueness lies in the fact that, located in Kalemegdan Park, the animal enclosures are adjacent directly to the famous Belgrade Fortress. Another highlight of the park is that some of the animals roam freely among park visitors and are not confined to cages. Among the inhabitants of the park are not only such large predators as bears, leopards, lions and wolves, but also exotic birds: pelicans, peacocks, parrots and other pets. Today, visitors to the park will be greeted by approximately two thousand animals, including deer, antelope and other wildlife.

9. Belgrade Military Museum

Another attraction of Belgrade that you cannot miss when visiting the fortress or Kalemegdan Park is the military museum. Such a property will be of particular interest to a male audience with a passion for weapons and historical warfare. One of Serbia's most exciting museums is located in the upper part of the city inside the Belgrade Fortress. It is very convenient that the exhibits are grouped according to the chronology of events and each individual room offers attributes corresponding to a specific era and period. Moreover, some exhibits are located near the walls of the fortress, right under the sky.

10. Ada Tsiganliya

Ada Tsiganliya represents popular place for relaxation - an island with a lake formed between the dams of the Sava River, a pebble beach stretching 7 km ahead. Tourists visiting Serbia in the warm season should definitely visit the Ada Peninsula with its crystal clear water, spacious beaches and amazing nature. While relaxing here, you can see deer, hares and even pheasants. Also for comfortable rest, there are sports grounds for volleyball, basketball and even golf, water skiing, bicycle rentals, many restaurants and cafes.

11. Serbian Parliament building

The building in which the Serbian Parliament currently meets was until 2006 the meeting place of the Yugoslav government. The building was erected back in 1936. N.P. Krasnov, the chief architect of Yalta, took part in the development of the exterior and interior of the monumental palace. Today, almost all excursions include a trip to the Parliament in their itinerary, since the building is an important historical property and makes a significant contribution to the cultural development of Belgrade.

12. Vršac Fortress

The Vršac fortress is one of the most ancient assets of Serbia from the 15th century. Almost touching the border of Romania, the fortress withstood countless attacks of conquerors and even repelled an attack by the Turkish army. High tower rises 400 meters above sea level, so it stands out clearly in the city panorama. Its walls were erected from mica and granite, so for several centuries in a row, the fortress has sparkled under the sun like a steadfast tin soldier. In 1991, Vrsac was designated a cultural monument and placed under protection. Every day dozens of tourists come to look at the fortress and plunge into the atmosphere of the 15th century.

13. Monument to Prince Mikhailo Obrenovic

The greatest liberator of Serbia from Turkish troops, Mihailo Obrenovic, returned Kladovo, Soko, as well as Belgrade itself and other Serbian cities to Serbia, which earned him to become a hero in the history of the liberation of Serbia. The Italian sculptor Enrico Pazzi created a monument in memory of the liberator and donated it as a sign of glorification to the Obrenovic dynasty in December 1882. But today the monument is a treasure of Serbia, one of the cultural attractions of Belgrade, and is also famous as a place where young people meet.

14. Genex Tower

The Genex Tower is a relatively “young” but very impressive landmark of the capital. Beautiful architecture and the impressive dimensions of the structure fascinate and delight. The 35-story skyscraper was built in 1977 and rises 115 meters above the ground. The building is a complex of two structures, which are connected by a two-story bridge, with a tower rising above it, located above the top floors. On the roof of the tower is a restaurant that rotates to give visitors a stunning panorama of the city. The Art Nouveau building is distinguished by its linear forms and functional structure.

15. Republic Square

Republic Square is the central square of the capital. And if you decide to visit the National Theater or approach one of the cultural monuments: Branislav Nisuc or Prince Mizailo Obrenovic III, your path lies straight to Republic Square. The square was built after the demolition of the gates of Istanbul in 1866. Today the square is known as a meeting place for young people. It is rich in the architectural heritage of the capital and imbued with the spirit of the nineteenth century.

16. Bridge over Ada

The Ada Bridge is a four-span cable-stayed bridge crossing the Sava River and connecting the old and new parts of the city. Most high bridge in the capital reaches 200 meters in height and has a length of 996 meters. The main span is supported by 80 cables, as its weight is 8600 tons. The grand opening of the bridge took place only in 2012; since then, it has become another attraction for tourists. The beauty of the bridge can be appreciated not only during the day, but also at night, when the entire structure is illuminated by a thousand multi-colored LEDs.

17. Aeronautics Museum

The amazing Aeronautics Museum is one of the most exciting attractions in Belgrade. It is located right on the territory of the airport, named after Nikola Tesla, and is Serbia's best asset in the field of aeronautics. The museum was founded in 1957, erecting a unique futuristic structure in the form of a domed building made of concrete and glass. The museum's collection of exhibits includes antique aircraft, rockets, aviation equipment, as well as old photographs and books on aeronautical subjects.

18. National Museum of Serbia

One of the oldest buildings in Serbia is the national museum, founded back in 1844 by order of the Minister of Education and playwright Jovan Steria Popovic. The largest Serbian museum has about 400 thousand exhibits. Visitors will see ancient Roman and Egyptian artifacts, sculptures, clothing, coins and other household items from different eras. Among the most valuable exhibits: art Gallery with works of such great artists as: Rembrandt, Picasso, Matisse, Rubens, Van Gogh and other painters of the 16th-20th centuries. Also one of the most striking exhibits is the gospel, which was written at the end of the 12th century.

19. National Theater of Serbia

The National Theater is not only the heritage of Serbia, but one of the most beautiful architectural landmarks of the capital. The building was erected in 1869 in an eclectic style, combining elements of many architectural movements. But subsequently, the building underwent reconstruction, and was opened in 1981 in a new, classic design. The key features of the building are two luxurious wings, located on both sides of the main entrance. There is a small auditorium in the southern wing, and a large one in the northern wing. Today, famous Serbian actors perform on the stage of the theater; not only dramatic scenes are staged, but also opera and ballet.

20. St. Mark's Church

The eastern side of the Tashmaydan park greets tourists with the majestic and picturesque Orthodox Church of St. Mark in the Serbian-Byzantine style. The church is located in close proximity to Parliament. Its construction was completed back in 1930. The exterior of the temple fascinates with the softness of the palette and the abundance of various elements - columns, domes, bells. The relics of Stefan IV Dušan, as well as the king of the Obrenović dynasty - Alexander and his family, are buried inside. The temple is also famous for its valuable icons painted in the 13th century. XIX century X. This is perhaps the richest collection of holy images in Serbia.

21. Ruzica Church

The Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary has a second name - Ruzhitsa, which translates as “Rose”. The church is located on the territory of the Kalemegdan fortress. Previously, it was Cathedral and in it rested the relics of Saint Paraskeva, and also kept the monk of the Mother of God, written by Saint Luke. From the outside, the church looks like an architectural structure from the Middle Ages. The church walls are covered with ivy. Inside, the temple is decorated with frescoes, carvings painted by horses, as well as luxurious chandeliers made from elements of soldiers' ammunition and weapons.

22. Palace of Princess Ljubica

The palace, now the museum of Princess Ljubica, is located in the old part of the city. The castle was erected back in 1830. The wife of Prince Obrenovic, Princess Ljubica, lived there with her sons. The building is an example of the architecture of the city of the 19th century. IN different time, in the palace there was a gymnasium, a lyceum, a church museum and even a boarding school. And in 1979, the palace was recognized as a cultural monument and turned into a museum where you can get acquainted with the living conditions of the princess and her family.

23. Avala TV tower

The TV tower, located on Mount Avala, became famous when it was destroyed by bombing in 1999 during NATO's Operation Allied Force. It was restored only in 2010, which aroused the curiosity of tourists and made it one of the city’s attractions. But the building attracts not only its history, but also its scale, because it is the tallest structure in the Balkans and reaches 205 meters. Today, tourists can not only look at the tower from the outside, but also climb inside, where they have a stunning view of the city.

24. Gardosh Tower

Climbing Gardoš Hill, you can truly feel the spirit of ancient Serbia. Ornate narrow streets on the slopes, old churches, luxurious mansions and tiny, like doll houses create the atmosphere of a quiet, peaceful Belgrade of the nineteenth century. At the top of the hill stands the Millennium Memorial Tower, which reaches 36 meters in height. The structure was erected to end of the 19th century century to the millennium of the first Hungarian settlement. Today, on the top floors of the tower, there is an observation deck, entry to which is free.

25. Zemun embankment

You can't visit Belgrade without strolling through the ancient streets of Zemun. This is perhaps one of the most unusual and authentic areas of the city, located on the right bank of the Danube. Walking along the cobbled streets, tourists come to the embankment, where there is more than one attraction. Houses with tiled “tops” and reliefs of old streets resemble the atmosphere of the European quarters of Budapest or Prague. There is an explanation for this - previously, Zemun bordered Austria-Hungary. The embankment is also filled with cafes and restaurants for hungry tourists.

Sights of Belgrade and its surroundings on the map

When planning a visit to the capital of Serbia, especially if it tourist trip, it's important to have a guide, great who knows the city or at least stock up detailed map. Some people prefer to get acquainted with the assets of Belgrade with a professional guide, while others prefer to travel independently, allowing them to visit the assets selectively, enjoying ice cream and a leisurely walk around the city. After all, not everyone is interested in the same places: one will be enthusiastic about military operations and artifacts in a military museum, while another will be more willing to stroll along the Zemun embankment or look into the aeronautics museum. After looking at the sights of Belgrade on a city map, you can create your own route, the most convenient for moving from one attraction to another.

It is best to start your quick acquaintance with Belgrade (one day cannot be called anything else) with the Stari Grad community and the Belgrade Fortress and Kalemegdan Park located within it. By the way, Belgrade is divided not into neighborhoods and districts, but into communities. And Kalemegdan (Fortress Field) is also a park, only located behind the fortress walls. Nowadays it is a typical city park with playgrounds and carousels.

The Belgrade Fortress, as befits an ancient defensive structure, is located on the top of a hill, at the place where two rivers - the Sava and the Danube - merge. Next to the fortress rises another symbol of Belgrade - a sculpture of a warrior with a sword and a hawk (monument to the Victor), warily looking towards the long-time enemy of Austria-Hungary.

Walk along the fortress walls without fear - they are wide, so you won’t be able to fall down and admire beautiful views. Examine the powerful round towers of the fortress, twelve gates leading to the fortress. By the way, some of them, built by the Turks in their time, were called Istanbul. On the territory of the fortress there are several interesting museums, but you are unlikely to have enough time for them. We'll have to save their visit for our next visit.

Next we leave ancient fortress and go down to the modern Knez Mihailova street, it is literally a stone's throw from Kalemegdan Park. It is very reminiscent of Moscow's Arbat, with the same beautiful facades of houses built in the nineteenth century, curly street lamps, a great variety of cafes and, of course, shops. Walking along this street to the end you will find yourself on Republic Square - the central one in Belgrade. Here pay attention to the monument to Prince Mikhail; there is essentially nothing else to see here.

After a short climb uphill, you will reach Skadarlija Street. This is a bohemian street, because artists and writers used to live here, so the atmosphere on this street is appropriate. You will see a lot of graffiti on the walls here. There are also many different cafes here, and in the evenings street musicians play and sing here. Locals This street is lovingly called Belgrade's Montmartre.

Next, you should go to the embankment of the Sava River - BETON HALA. Its design was developed by a group of Spanish-Mexican architects and the result is very impressive. It immediately reminds me of the embankment of Moscow's "Red October" and the Copenhagen district - Vesterbro, only this embankment is much different large quantity greenery There are a lot of cute cafes here, so if you want, you can have a snack in one of them.

Now, either on foot or by trolleybus, get to the Vracar community to visit a landmark place for Belgrade - the Church of St. Sava. Sava, who was later canonized, was by birth the son of the Serbian ruler Stefan Nemanja. From the outside the temple looks absolutely charming, but the interior inside is more than modest. But since the construction of the temple has not yet been completed, there is hope that the inside will also be attractive.

Well, one more place that you simply cannot and unforgivably miss while in Belgrade is the Nikola Tesla Museum. It’s better, of course, to go through it with a tour, fortunately there are such English language take place several times a day, otherwise it will be difficult for you to understand all these devices and ingenious machines invented by this unsurpassed genius. Here you will also see an urn with the scientist’s ashes in the shape of a ball, because Nikola Tesla wanted to be buried in Belgrade.

And finally, if you still have time, you will need to visit the building of the Serbian parliament - the National Assembly of Serbia, and at least examine the monumental Church of St. Mark and the Stari Dvor Palace from the outside. It's enough for one day.

I’ll break the chronology of events a little and tell you about Serbia.

Today's article is dedicated to the capital of Serbia - the wonderful city of Belgrade!

Despite the fact that in the first half hour in Belgrade, our car was stolen, an inhumane fine was lifted, after which I stepped on a poop while running and was almost left without housing, for which I had previously paid more than $100, I generally liked Belgrade, although I left with very mixed feelings.

Perhaps I was looking forward to this trip too much, and my expectations about Serbia were too high. For some reason I expected to see a second Georgia or Armenia, but either the weather had its effect, or something else, but Belgrade passed absolutely smoothly. There are undoubtedly nice buildings in the city, there is history, but there is no attention to detail.

Overall, I liked Belgrade. I will describe only my personal, very superficial impressions. Please do not take my words literally. So:

8 facts about Belgrade

1. Serbs

In Belgrade there live very tall people, mostly under 30 years old, who constantly eat bread rolls and do not gain weight. Girls and especially guys are on average taller than me. This is unusual.

2. Pleskavica

One of the favorite dishes of Serbs is pljeskavica. It is better to eat it at night, washed down with Coca-Cola. Pleskavica is National dish, popular in the Balkans. It is a flat cutlet made from different types of meat, grilled and wrapped in a bun with salad. Costs about 230 dinars (2 euros)

3. Coffee

In the center of Belgrade there is an unimaginable number of cafes that serve incredibly delicious coffee. I usually don’t like coffee with milk, but what the Serbs do is something!

4. Kalemegdan Fortress

In the evening, the youth of Belgrade gather at the Kalemegdan fortress, dangling their legs from the fortress wall. They chat, look at the Sava and Danube, some drink beer.

Evening at the Kalemegdan fortress in Belgrade

5. Contrasts of Belgrade

On some central streets Belgrade looks quite European, but basically the city is very simple, without much polish. Many buildings had not been plastered for a long time; some buildings remained in the same condition as they were during the war.

Night Belgrade

6. Past

Belgrade's military past is visible to the naked eye. The half-burnt buildings in the center of the capital of Serbia remind us of him, as well as some slightly perceptible sadness on the faces of the older generation of Serbs.

7. Parking

Parking in Belgrade is hell. It is very difficult to find a place in the center. An incorrectly parked car is immediately taken away by a tow truck. So, we parked our car near the house, went to the store, and soon returned and found that the car was gone.

A survey of waiters from the restaurant opposite showed that the car was most likely taken to a parking lot 3 km from the place where it was left. I had to run to save the vehicle.

They soldered a fine of 125 euros, saying that this was not the limit. Moreover, the kind policeman gave a discount of 25 euros, because the original fine was 150 euros.

The impound lot in Belgrade where our car was taken

8. Smiling icon

And finally, my personal discovery made in the Belgrade Church of St. Mark. I have long been interested in the fact that on icons saints are depicted sad and suffering. There was some kind of inconsistency.

And after long studies of the faces of the saints in different countries, I came across an image of a man smiling at me from an icon. Agree, she doesn’t look sad, but spiritual. I don't know who this woman was, but she is beautiful.

Excursions in Belgrade

If you don’t have a lot of time to explore the sights of Belgrade on your own, you can order a non-standard individual tour around the city or a trip from Belgrade to other cities in Serbia. Examples of excursions in Belgrade:

What to see and do in Belgrade in one day:

1. Visit the old Kalemendan fortress, go around its perimeter along the fortress walls, look at the stunning views of the Danube from above. Near the fortress there is a zoo, you can look there too.

Military Museum in Belgrade Fortress
Dinopark in Belgrade Fortress

View of the confluence of rivers from the walls of the Kalemegdan fortress

2. Stroll along the embankments of the Sava and Danube rivers

3. Walk along Knez Mihajla Street (Knez Mihajlova) - a pedestrian street in the center of Belgrade.

4. Take a look at the Church of St. Mark.

5. In the evening, head to the Skadarlija district, where the main clubs in Belgrade are located.

6. Streets of Belgrade. Walk not through the tourist, but through ordinary areas of the city to understand its atmosphere and see not only a clean, licked tourist centre, but also simple courtyards without gloss.

Streets of Belgrade

7. Order coffee in one of the cafes in the center of Belgrade. I took Mochaccino with cream and chocolate. This is not coffee, but divine nectar

Cafe in the center of Belgrade

8. Food. Food is the best thing about Serbia. Rolls, olives, vegetables, fruits, Shopska salad, meat, even simple bread from the bakery on the corner - this is truly a miracle! In general, even if the weather is not pleasant, as was the case in our case, in Belgrade you can simply eat all day long. Believe me, it's worth it!

Bakers in Belgrade at every turn

Sights of Belgrade, left behind the scenes

Because of the rain, we left Belgrade too quickly, without visiting the places where I had originally planned to visit:

1. The destroyed building of the Ministry of Defense and the General Staff in the center of Belgrade - memory of 1999. Address: corner of Knyaz Milos and Nemanjina streets. I saw the buildings from the car window several times, but didn’t have a chance to take a photo. The spectacle is eerie.

2. St. Sava Cathedral is the second largest Orthodox church in Europe.

3. Zemun - used to be a separate Austro-Hungarian city, and is now part of Belgrade. Famous for the Hungarian Gardos Tower, narrow streets and observation deck overlooking the Danube.

4. Palaces of Belgrade.

Apartments for a day in Belgrade

There are more than 1,000 hotels, guest houses and hostels in Belgrade, so you can choose any accommodation to suit your taste.

Flights to Belgrade:

We went to Belgrade by car from St. Petersburg, but getting to Belgrade is easier and cheaper by plane. You can check prices and find cheap flights to Belgrade using my favorite search engine, which finds the most the best prices for tickets.

I'll wrap this up. Have you been to Belgrade? What impressions did the city make on you?

READ what else to see in Serbia =>>>

TOP 13 things to see in Belgrade in 2 days: photos, reviews, hotels

Today we are talking about the must-see places in Belgrade, as well as what you should definitely try in the Serbian capital.

Belgrade.

1. The first thing you should do in Belgrade is to visit the pedestrian Prince Mikhailov street, which connects the city center with the Kalemegdan fortress. The street is full of restaurants, cafes, shops and other interesting places.

On Mikhailov Street there is also Belgrade meridian.

2. Promenade on the banks of the Sava River in Kalemegdan Park starts from Mikhailova Street and ends at the fortress. The promenade has existed since the late 19th century, when the first pine trees were planted on the hill near the river. During archaeological excavations, traces of a Roman military camp and streets with Roman buildings were found.

3. The boardwalk is followed by Kalemegdan fortress, around which you can walk for a long time. The fortress also houses a military museum, and from the height there is an excellent view of the Sava River.

4. The fortress also has Monument to the Winner, erected in 1928 as a memorial to Serbia's victory over the Ottoman Empire and Austria-Hungary.

History of Serbia.

5. To learn more about Serbian history and architecture, it is worth getting acquainted with the monuments testifying to the Turkish presence in Serbia. One of them - Mausoleum of Sheikh Mustafa Pasha, erected in 1783.

6. To find out more about Serbian folk culture, visit ethnographical museum: The three-story building houses a huge collection of costumes and tools.

7. You can learn most about the history of the 20th century at the Museum of Yugoslav History, also known as Tito Museum. The museum is located outside the city center and is quite large.

One of the most interesting exhibitions is a collection of gifts made for Tito.

Tito himself is also buried here. 208 delegations from 128 countries came to his funeral.

8. Knowledge of Serbian history will not be complete without the era of the Balkan wars and bombings. In the center of the city there are still many buildings destroyed as a result of bombing, which stand either so as not to forget the horrors of the war, or because the state simply does not have the money to completely destroy these buildings.

9. Perhaps the main reason for Serbian national pride lies in Nikola Tesla Museum. According to the museum's description, Tesla is a Serbian-American explorer, although many other countries claim Tesla's name in their pantheon of national heroes. Croatia, for example, has the right to do this, because Tesla was born and went to school on the modern territory of this country. However, Tesla's ashes are located in Belgrade, in the museum.

A visit to the museum also includes a guided tour exploring the life and work of Tesla. Also, as part of each tour, interesting interactive experiments are conducted here, so we highly recommend visiting the museum.
10. You can relax after a long walk in one of the parks, for example, in the student park, located between the university and the ethnographic museum.

What to buy or bring from Belgrade.

11. Belgrade may not be the most famous shopping destination, but everyone highly recommends it. swap meet . There are several of them in Belgrade, the most famous is Buvljak or Otvoreni Trzni Centar, open on Sundays.

12. If you haven't tried Serbian coffee, you haven't been to Belgrade. In addition to Western Americano and espresso in Serbian cafes, which are called kafanas, offer homemade (or Turkish) strong coffee, as well as instant, but very tasty “nes cafe”. The latter is served cold and hot; there are especially many cold variations in the summer.

13. You should definitely try different Serbian food: desserts, meat, vegetables. We recommend the traditional dry pita pie with nuts and cherries, vegetable ajvar, cevapcici and meat pljeskavica. Restaurant Kolorats on Mikhailova, 46 I liked it the most for its traditional dishes.
14. Don't forget about drinks (not just coffee!). In addition to the Serbian beer Jelenj, be sure to try rakia from plum, apricot and quince (these are all different drinks), as well as bitter leaf tincture.

15. And for dessert, go to one of the oldest sweet shops in Belgrade, Bonbonerie in Savamala, where you can buy traditional Serbian sweets and Turkish delight.

The sights of Belgrade in Serbia are a juicy, juicy apple of discord. Some tourists, having arrived in the capital, wrinkle their noses in disappointment and declare: there is nothing to see here. Even if there was a Colosseum, even the most cluttered one, or a Sphinx, even a dwarf one - but nothing, it’s boring.

Others immediately fall in love with Belgrade and stay here to wander the streets for days on end, shouting in ecstasy: sunset! Danube! chestnuts! the smell of coffee! soul of the city!

Which camp you will join - Belgradophiles or Belgradophobes - depends on your tastes and, of course, how much you have time to get around in the city. Before your trip, I suggest you take a look at this article about the main attractions of Belgrade in Serbia with photo, description and location on the map.

Well, if you live here and think that you know the capital like the back of your hand, read about the hidden side sights of Belgrade. Curious details and secret corners, unusual past and strange present, exciting legends, amazing facts and “Easter eggs”, unknown to many indigenous people.

At the end of the article - short list, and here are the sights of Belgrade on the map in Russian:

The red color stands for the interesting things themselves, and the blue color stands for their secrets.

FAMOUS

Belgrade's most famous landmark is the fortress in Kalemegdan Park in the city center, where the Sava River flows into the Danube.

Although only the park is formally called Kalemegdan, this name was transferred to the fortress and the entire hill through the efforts of the people. Belgrade residents love to collect autumn leaves here, dance, parade arm-in-arm and kiss while sitting on the walls.

In the evenings, Kalemegdan offers the best sunsets in the city; in the mornings, when there are few people, the pine alleys are teeming with squirrels. During the day, the air rings over the chess tables - they are occupied by pensioners and staged intellectual battles. At night, the benches and secluded places are occupied by lovers... However, here is a photo of the sunset for you.

The first buildings on the hill appeared in the 1st century AD; The fortress was constantly destroyed and rebuilt. Now on Kalemegdan you can not only look at the powerful preserved walls, fortifications and towers, but also visit A military museum, two churches, a large zoo and children's park dinosaurs. In addition, there are cafes and restaurants here, from whose terraces a magnificent view of Belgrade and its rivers opens.

Cost of visiting: entrance to the park and fortress on Kalemegdan is free; tickets to the museum, zoo and Dino Park are paid separately.

HIDDEN

Eared guys

In pursuit of sunsets and views, no one notices two funny characters hiding near one of the benches - Eared Joku (Yoka's tubs) And Uncle Glish (Chika Glish). What kind of guys are these, and where do they live?

There are various rumors about the origin of Eared Joki (read softly - Jjoka). From the fantastic: the poor sad freak is the first Belgrade vampire. To the plausible: some joker just wanted to become a landmark of Belgrade and carved his portrait in stone at night.

One thing is clear: the Kalemegdan Ushastik appeared in the middle of the 20th century.

Even less is known about Uncle Glish, and I discovered him by accident when I was looking for Joka. I can assume that this is also someone's joke, because Chicha Glisha- a character in Serbian children's songs and coloring books, a primitively drawn man in the “stick-and-circles” style.

If you want to meet the guys, here is their address: the northern wall of the fortress (Danube side), right next to the chesma source of Mehmed Pasha Sokolovich.

Now it’s clear why Jock’s face shows disgust. Make you look at a trash can every day, and this is what you would look like.

Twin fishermen

Many have passed by this statue more than once: a naked young man, covered only by a carelessly draped fishing net, thoughtfully strangles a snake. Meanwhile, at Fisherman the fate of the hero of a classic Indian film - with the loss and acquisition of a twin brother, perhaps without songs and dances.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the Serbian sculptor Simeon Roksandic, the author of the monument, sent it to an exhibition in London. Having amazed the British with lumps of muscles, Rybak sailed home on the ship, but did not swim - the sculptor was informed that the ship sank, and with it the statue.

Fortunately, Roksandich still had a plaster mold and cast Fisherman No. 2, almost identical to his older brother. But before the youngest had time to dry the bronze on his lips, a ship with Fisherman No. 1 suddenly arrived - it turned out that the sculptor had been misinformed, and there was no crash.

After dancing to celebrate the event, the happy father of the twins sold them to the Serbian and Croatian authorities. Since then, the brothers have been working as fountains in tourist places; one is a landmark of Belgrade, and the second is of Zagreb.

Kalemegdan underground

Tens of meters below Rybak and Ushastiki branches network of underground passages and rooms. It was dug in Roman, Austrian and Yugoslav times. You can visit some places on your own or with the popular excursion “Belgrade near Belgrade” by the writer Zoran Nikolic. The photographs below are from the official website of the fortress.

For example, Roman well- a hefty tunnel with a depth of 51 m. It was built by the Austrians in the 18th century, but the Serbs, already accustomed to accidentally digging up the legacy of the Empire in their gardens, out of inertia, christened it accordingly. Ticket price – 120 dinars(1 euro).

Not a hadron collider, but a Roman well

The Austrians also distinguished themselves by building another landmark of Kalemegdan and Belgrade - Large powder warehouse. True, here the ancient Romans again spoiled them, pulling the blanket of glory onto themselves: there is now an exhibition of Roman sculptures and sarcophagi in the warehouse. Ticket price – 200 dinars.

Military bunker on Kalemegdan was built in 1948, when relations between the USSR and Yugoslavia cooled to the temperature of Oymyakon-style okroshka. The Serbian government was afraid of Soviet missiles and gave the order to build a shelter in a strategically important place. By the mid-50s, relations between our countries had warmed up, and, fortunately, the bunker never had to be used. Ticket price – 100 dinars.

2) Prince Mikhail Street

FAMOUS

If Kalemegdan is the heart of Belgrade, then Prince Mikhail street- the artery adjacent to it, important and famous. Knez Mikhailova or, as our emigrants called it, Stas-Mikhailova (simply by consonance) is a pedestrian zone framed by historical buildings with galleries, cafes and shops.

Local residents here get an invaluable opportunity to look at crowds of foreigners over a cup of coffee, tourists - ; and everyone walks back and forth together, mixing the Belgrade air. It is empty and deserted here only in the early morning.

HIDDEN

Circulating along Knez Mihailova, passers-by carefully bypass the street located in the center pyramid. According to official statements, the figure is standing here to show geographical coordinates Belgrade - it shows the cardinal directions, the height of the city above sea level, latitude and longitude.

But some historians and journalists are sounding the conspiracy alarm bell: this pyramid is not simple, but Masonic, with cut off top. Indeed, if you look, for example, at a dollar bill, you can see a classic Masonic symbol - a pyramid with a tip floating in the air.

True, the Belgrade pyramid lacks the All-Seeing Eye. Conspiracy theorists only nod: that’s what masons and masons do, so as not to get burned. And the freemasons did not sign on the pyramid, but they ingeniously hid it three eyes at once in the windows of the building of the Serbian Academy of Sciences and Arts.

Far-fetched Masonic eyes. Photo used from the site alo.rs

The symbolism of the pyramid on the street - one of the main attractions of Belgrade - can be believed or not. One thing is certain: the Masonic thread has been woven into the fabric of Serbian history more than once.

3) Republic Square and the monument to Prince Mikhail

FAMOUS

Prince Mikhail Street running through the center sideways touches Republic Square. In Serbian it is called Trg Republic, and I wouldn’t be surprised if you can’t pronounce the first word right away - it doesn’t have vowels.

But on the square itself there is a lot of interesting things: the National Museum, the Cultural Center, the National Theater and the monument to Prince Michael on horseback, near which Belgrade residents meet. Moreover, even though the monument was erected and to the prince, make an appointment "by the horse" (code), which is somewhat unfair to the august person.

Note: the reconstruction of Republic Square began in the summer of 2018, and it will be blocked off for about another year. You can walk to the buildings, but the view is not the same as in the photo.

HIDDEN

Ominous Istanbul Gate

Many contemporaries do not suspect that on the site of a beautiful and bright building National Theater once towered ominous Istanbul Gate. They were built, again, by the Austrians in the first half of the 18th century, and the gate got its name because the route to Istanbul ran through it. And before them, the Turks impaled the rebellious Serbs.

The arch acquired a bad reputation and became a symbol of the suffering of the Serbian people under the yoke Ottoman Empire. Therefore, in 1866, Prince Michael ordered the gate to be razed to the ground, and a couple of years later, two steps from the execution place, the construction of a theater began - a new landmark of Belgrade to replace the gloomy gate.

Monument to Prince Mikhail

The monument to Prince Mikhail, like the Fisherman, has a couple of relatives, albeit of much more noble origin.

To adequately immortalize the image of the prince in bronze, the Belgrade people invited the Italian sculptor Enrico Pazzi. He, without thinking twice, was inspired by the statues of Ferdinando and Cosimo de' Medici in Florence and began to create.

Medici monuments in Florence - “relatives” of Prince Michael

The finished monument really resembled the Medici – with its posture, pedestal and other features. But the Belgrade residents were struck by something else: the prince was not wearing a headdress!

In those days, decent statues of generals were supposed to wear at least a purely symbolic hat. The uncovered head shocked the townspeople so much that they began gossiping and even attributed suicide to the sculptor out of shame for the headless monument. In reality, Pazzi returned to Italy and lived to a ripe old age without losing his mind.

Having devoted so much attention to the hat, Belgrade residents almost did not notice (and even now they almost do not notice) an important detail. On the pedestal, under a block with scenes from Serbian history, there are 6 tablets with the names of cities.

These are Belgrade, Smederevo, Kladovo, Soko, Uzice and Sabac - cities that the diplomacy of the prince - with or without a hat - helped to liberate from the Turks.

4) Skadar street

FAMOUS

War is war, but lunch is on schedule: while sightseeing in Belgrade, stop by Skadar street(or "Skadarliya"). Here you can combine business with pleasure - touch the next layer of history and indulge in the most famous restaurants of the city.

On the site of Skadarlija there was once a poor gypsy settlement, but after 1870 it gained new life. Artists, writers, poets, actors and simply enterprising citizens flocked here, changing the area beyond recognition.

Interesting things about Skadarliya: 1. traveling Actor; 2. Poet Djura Jaksic near his house; 3. The chesma source at the end of the street is a copy of the chesma from Sarajevo.

Quickly, like mushrooms, cozy taverns sprang up, where people gathered in the evenings. urban bohemia. The street was paved with cobblestones, planted with spreading trees, and Skadarlija became famous as a hub of excellent cooking, creativity, live music, socializing and fun.

Some contemporaries wave their forks sadly and complain that Skadarlija is no longer the same. All that remains of bohemianism is a façade, and in Belgrade there are places where you can dine cheaper and tastier. In some ways they are right, but it’s definitely worth a detour here - listen to “Starograd” songs, stroll along the pavement, try Serbian cuisine and cut off a piece of a drunken Skadarli evening on your plate.

HIDDEN

In the kafan Ima dana They decided to remember Skadarlija’s regulars in a special way – by drawing them. The cream of Belgrade's bohemians watch their eaters with emotion. And who knows, if you eat with appetite and shine with your talents, maybe your portrait will one day adorn the walls of a restaurant.

Some of the most colorful visitors to the kafana (and other establishments in Skadarlija) are the fortune teller Ljubica and the drummer Cholet.

They say Lubica predicted Margaret Thatcher would become prime minister. The Iron Lady thanked the fortune teller and promised to invite her to the inauguration, but the invitation never reached the Skadarli mailboxes.

Real photographs of Lyubica and Cholet, along with photographs of other notable visitors, hang at the entrance to the kafana.

And Cholet surprised Rockefeller himself: when the rich man, having tasted raki and enjoyed traditional live music at the Three Sheshires restaurant, decided to make the drummer happy with a generous tip, he approached Rockefeller and whispered: “I am a rich man, and tonight I will sleep peacefully on a bench. How will you sleep?

Whether the musician tycoon understood him, how he reacted, and how he slept that night, history is silent about this.

5) Hotel "Moscow"

FAMOUS

The Moscow Hotel in the center of Belgrade looks as if a flock of ladies in elegant hats are about to burst out of its doors and, rattling beads and waving lace gloves, scurry off to the nearest pizzeria.

It sounds strange, but “Moscow” was designed by St. Petersburgers - a group of architects from St. Petersburg led by Serb Jovan Ilkic. The building was built in 1908, which is eloquently evidenced by the modern appearance of the hotel - curlicues, trinkets, turrets, bas-reliefs and the noble green color of the roof.

The hotel has become not just a hotel, but also a real landmark of Belgrade: over the years of its existence, many famous and influential people have stayed there - politicians, actors, musicians (and in total, more than 40 million guests).

Mere mortals can also spend the night here - prices for a modest double start from 100 euros/day. Which is not so expensive for a hotel with history, location and lush interior.

Even more ordinary mortals can sit down in a spacious cafe on the ground floor of the hotel and drink coffee there with a bite signature cherry-pineapple cake “Moscow-Schnitt” for 4 euros.

HIDDEN

While visitors are drinking teas and coffees in the hotel’s pastry shop, solid pumps They diligently circulate water in his basement. Despite the fact that “Moscow” is built on a hill, underground water mysteriously flows from all sides and upward, flooding the building.

Photo: telegraf.rs

This unpleasant feature was discovered already during the construction of the hotel, and the Belgrade residents had to urgently come up with something to plug up the gushing solid. For the foundation, they brought 82 five-meter wooden beams, 30 wagons of wrought iron, 10 wagons of granite and marble, and covered this splendor with a 2.2-meter thick concrete slab.

But “Moscow” was still leaking; in the 70s, wayward Belgrade water poured through the walls so much that it flooded the basement by a meter. In order not to completely tarnish the hotel’s reputation, it was decided install pumps. They are still there, working diligently for the benefit and dryness of the hotel business.

More Interesting Facts about the hotel "Moscow":

• this is the only hotel in Belgrade that does not have a single apartment number 13;
• during World War II, the main headquarters of the Gestapo was located here;
• in the 70s, one high-ranking guest, whose name is not mentioned, arrived in “Moscow” with his personal herd of camels. The animals were housed in a park nearby and were milked every morning, and the milk was taken to the hotel kitchen. There it was boiled, cooled and taken to the gourmet guest. Everyone has their little weaknesses.

6) Building of the People's Assembly (National Parliament)

FAMOUS

I don’t know why, but looking specifically at the building of the People’s Assembly (National Parliament of Serbia), many tourists say that Belgrade is similar to Berlin.

The Parliament took almost 30 years to build and was completed in 1936, and Russian architect Nikolai Krasnov also took part in the design. On both sides of the main staircase there are statues - rearing horses and their tamers - which personally remind me of the St. Petersburg horses on the Anichkov Bridge.

Looking across the road to the Parliament building Old Palace – a rich mansion of the Obrenovich and Karageorgievich dynasties.

HIDDEN

Batal Jamia Mosque

Sometimes it’s hard to believe what changes can happen to an ordinary piece of land. Until the second half of the 19th century, on the site of the Parliament building stood Turkish Batal Jamia Mosque.

Picture: Wikimedia commons

Construction began in the 16th century by Einehan Beg, and at that time the mosque became famous as the largest building in Serbia and an unusual landmark in Belgrade. But the years passed, the capital changed hands, the chapel was shelled, used as a warehouse, and two centuries later its condition became completely deplorable.

That's when the name came about "Batal Jamia" (battle– abandoned, tour.). The Turks proposed to restore the mosque, but the Serbs were against it, because this could strengthen Ottoman influence and power.

The public proposed converting Bataljamia into the National Museum of Serbia or a library, but in the end, on the orders of military leader Blaznavec, the mosque was destroyed in 1869 (or 1878), and a little later the Assembly building was built in its place.

Observation tower from Macedonia

An inconspicuous pile of boulders across the road from Parliament receives little attention from passers-by. Only from time to time you can hear the screams of parents: Milos, son, don’t climb on the rocks - you’ll come around! But this “heap” is not simple - this is precisely the case when the mountain itself comes to a person.

Or, more precisely, when a person himself brings a mountain to other people.

During World War I, the Serbian army defeated the Bulgarian on a mountain ridge Kaymakchalan in Macedonia. To perpetuate the victory, the Serbs decided to bring home observation tower, from which the military leaders surveyed the expanses.

The tower was dismantled down to the smallest pebble and, either by hand or by cart, was lowered from the 2524-meter-high peak of St. Elijah, and then delivered to Belgrade. Let me remind you: the beginning of the 20th century, 550 kilometers from the capital, no construction vehicles, roads, trucks or courier services.

In Belgrade, the appearance of the tower was recreated in detail, installed in Pioneer Park opposite the Parliament and added plates depicting Serbian generals who participated in the First World War.

7) Tashmaidan park and churches

FAMOUS

If, running from one Belgrade attraction to another, you are tired of the stones and want to listen to the rustling of birds and the singing of leaves, take a look at... a stone field. Green Tashmaidan Park in the city center got its name from the Turks ( tash- stone, meydan– field, tur.), who appropriated the quarries that were once mined here by the Romans.

Now on the site of the quarries there is a chic, well-kept park with the Church of St. Mark, as if floating above the trees.

On Tashmaidan you can walk, play sports (there are treadmills, outdoor exercise equipment and a swimming pool), breathe air on benches, study strange statues of famous personalities and unknown fruits of the imagination of sculptors. And also watch movies - in the summer there are free open-air film festivals here.

HIDDEN

Wrangel's coffin and Tsarevich Alexei's scarf

Near the monumental Church of St. Mark there is a tiny Church of the Holy Trinity (or, as it is also called, Russian church). It was built in 1924 according to the design of the architect Valery Stashevsky for the White emigrants who poured into Serbia after the October Revolution.

Baron Wrangel himself was present at the consecration of the temple. Five years later, he died of tuberculosis in Brussels, and his ashes were transferred to the Russian Church in Belgrade.

Baron Wrangel is buried in the church. Photo: ekspres.net

There is also a flap in the Church of the Holy Trinity shawls of Tsarevich Alexei, which he received as a gift from his sisters and loved to wear. After the execution of the Romanov family, the White Guard sent the shawl, along with other surviving items, to the sister of Tsar Nicholas in London.

Years later, one of the shawl scraps, having passed through many caring hands, ended its journey in Belgrade.

Tashmaydan Caves

Tashmaidan is permeated underground passages and caves, like cheese - with holes. And only recently they were officially turned into a landmark of Belgrade and visitors began to be allowed there.

In this “cheese”, the townspeople hid for centuries from enemy attacks, and young hooligans also hid from retribution for theft (and this is how tent slang appeared - read about it).

Park dungeon. Photo: blic.rs

One of the caves is completely concreted - this is a German “legacy”. During World War II, the Nazis took a fancy to Tashmaidan and adapted the catacombs to their needs: they built an elevator and an electric generator, installed a telephone and a ventilation system. In such an autonomous underground citadel, 600 soldiers and officers could take refuge.

Photo: beograd.rs

8) Temple of St. Sava

FAMOUS

One day the sky split open over Belgrade. One of its fragments fell to the ground and turned white and blue. Church of Saint Sava- the largest Orthodox church in the Balkans.

The official version, however, says that construction of the temple began in 1935, on the site where the Turks burned the relics of a very revered saint in Serbia - Archbishop Sava. Construction was interrupted more than once for various reasons - bureaucratic and military.

In 2004, the temple was finally completed; its height was 82 meters, and it could accommodate 10 thousand believers. Work on the interior decoration is still underway, by the way, with Russian support: dozens of our restorers and artists participated in the creation of the mosaic for the dome. And Gazprom allocated more than four million euros for this.

HIDDEN

And again, hidden under a Belgrade landmark is “ Chamber of Secrets» – vaulted golden crypt with an area of ​​2 thousand square meters.

Patriarchs of the Serbian Orthodox Church will be buried here, and they are already holding various cultural events. And, of course, divine services - in the crypt there is the Church of St. Prince Lazar.

9) Old Zemun

FAMOUS

Zemun – a charming old district of Belgrade, say Belgrade residents.
Zemun is a charming old town, Zemun residents insistently correct them.

The fact is that Zemun was once considered a separate city, but as the capital grew and swelled, Belgrade absorbed it into itself and reduced it to a “district”. The indigenous people categorically disagree with this and in informal conversations demonstrate moderate separatism: “Zemun is not Belgrade, don’t pretend.”

Zemun house with sundial

Tourists, however, don’t care about this debate: they are interested in Zemun as one big attraction of Belgrade. And they like to compare it with Riga or Tallinn: touching old houses, red tiled roofs, cobbled streets and a special atmosphere so inherent in cozy European towns.

However, Zemun is in desperate need of a good facelift. The district town lacks polish, plaster is peeling off buildings like peelings from new potatoes, and cobblestones are blowing bubbles right under the feet of stumbling pedestrians.

But still, be sure to set aside at least half a day to wander through the humpbacked streets of Zemun. And, of course, look at the main attractions of the area:

1. Gardosh Tower(other names - Millennium Tower, Yanko Sibinyanin Tower) on the hill. The 36-meter-high tower was built in the 19th century, and if you climb to the very top, you can gasp over a magical view of Belgrade, Zemun, the Danube and the Great Military Island. Ticket price – 200 dinars.

True, almost the same view opens at the foot of the tower, where you can go for free. And if your legs get weak after walking in the hills, take a break in one of the cafes on the plateau.

Gorgeous view from Gardosh hill. I cropped the photo a little because... a thick cable hangs from the left and spoils the whole raspberry

2. Zemun embankment. A long, several-kilometer promenade along the Danube. On the one hand - old and new Zemun, on the other - the river and “rafts” - platforms with restaurants and bars installed on the water. In summer, a pontoon bridge spans the Danube, and you can cross it to the Great Military Island with a beach and campsite.

And there is no “Neva, chained in granite”, everything is very unpretentious and close to nature. You sit on the terrace of a cafe and watch how the river runs endlessly, fish splash, water snakes wriggle, and birds hover over all this living creatures and try to devour them.

Speaking of birds, dozens of shameless swans graze in the northern part of the embankment. They form organized groups and beg passers-by for food. They admire the birds, feed them from their hands and take photographs. But beware: your mimic meter may go off scale, and a swan may bite your finger.

HIDDEN

It was very, very difficult for me to single out just a couple unusual facts about Zemun, because it is literally stuffed with raisins, like a rich bun. I'll try to pick out the two sweetest ones:

Lagums - underground sinkholes

You have already realized that Belgrade is a two-level city, and that its underground part is not much smaller than the heavenly part. Zemun, of course, is no exception: people doze under its pavements lagumi– gaps, voids, caves and passages. Not to be confused with lagoons!

Underground Zemun. Photo: undergrad.rs

Some of the catacombs were dug by the Romans or hard-working Austrians, some by Mother Nature. Some lagoums have not yet been studied and can be dangerous. So, in 1988, three Zemun streets almost went whistling into a lagum with an area of ​​440 square meters. The situation was saved only by emergency pumping of the voids with concrete.

But this story is a bit scary (even though, fortunately, it ended happily). But the romantic story happened in the middle of the 20th century, and it is connected with the lagoons under the abandoned Villa Vukojicic (now “Villa Dunav”):

Photo: viladunav.com

In the 1930s, a wealthy merchant named Vukojicic built a house on the banks of the Danube - as it turned out, right above the lagoons. Later, he found an excellent use: he opened a semi-legal weaving factory and an illegal wine factory there.

When the communists came for Vukojic after World War II, he asked them to let him dress like a human being before arrest. The officers generously agreed to wait for him at the door, but the merchant was in no hurry to leave.

The officers burst into the house - and inside there was only a draft, laughing maliciously. In one of the walls a passage was discovered secret corridor which led to the river bank. Their murdered colleague was lying there, and pieces of rope were lying next to him.

Vukoichich prepared a boat for retreat in advance, escaped and went to Brazil, where there are many wild Abyzians. From there, as legend has it, he sent cards every year to “the one who lives in my house.”

The villa was turned into the Danube (Dunav) restaurant, but then it fell into disrepair. Now the building belongs to an enthusiast who dreams of one day restoring it.

Kalvarice staircase

128 steps in the Zemun (Belgrade) region of Kalvaria for a long time they were ordinary gray slabs. The tourist did not walk on them, did not click the camera shutter. All that remained for the stairs was to fall down onto the city with an inaudible, lonely groan.

But in 2016, a group of young Zemun residents, led by Nenad Hegedis, decided to breathe life into the steps. They spent six months knocking on the doorsteps of the administration, finally received permission, attacked the stairs in a creative impulse and turned it into another unusual landmark of Belgrade.

The guys collected funds for materials themselves; They themselves scrubbed the steps with brushes and painted them, installed trash cans and an information board.

After 3 weeks, 128 names of famous Serbian writers, artists, scientists, athletes and politicians who ever lived or worked in Zemun were on the steps.

The updated staircase was given a hybrid name - Kalvarice(name of the district Kalvaria + stepzentse - steps). Now, of course, she is still crumbling, but she is doing it cheerfully and not in splendid isolation: the tourist has actively entered the area.

FAMOUS

Belgrade's Topčider and Košutnjak are like the parks in Pushkin and Pavlovsk near St. Petersburg. They are located nearby, but are different from each other.

Topchider - a respectable small park, cropped in the French fashion, with symmetrical flower beds and lawns, sculptures and a strict church.

The townspeople walk along Topchider calmly and decorously. Brides drag grooms to take photos on the bridges. Children drag their mothers for carriage rides pulled by stolid ponies. Mothers try to pull their husbands away from glasses of beer in a nearby restaurant.

Famous landmark of Topčider (and Belgrade) – Palace of Prince Milos Obrenovic (Knez Miloš's Konak), built in the 19th century. For a small fee you can visit it.

In front of the palace, sighing heavily in the wind, grows portly old plane tree.

The plane tree is already more than 160 years old, and it cannot support its branches by itself. Therefore, the Serbs carefully donated 17 metal crutches to the tree. The volume of the plane tree’s “waist” is 7.5 meters, but it does not worry about thickness, professes a positive stem and only increases kilograms of wood to the delight of Belgrade residents.

Located next door giant park Koszutnjak– this is an informal landscape, 330 hectares of lightly combed botanical diversity.

There are no flower beds or palaces here, but there is a very beautiful, noble, thinned forest. In the fall, it turns into such colors that the air gets stuck in the lungs and agrees to come out only in the form of an enthusiastic squeak.

However, Koshutnyak Park is good at any time of the year. You can walk, barbecue, play tennis and football, run along the new spring path, swim in outdoor and indoor pools, exercise on outdoor exercise equipment and just enjoy forest therapy: here you get the feeling that the city is far away and not true.

HIDDEN

An undeservedly forgotten part of Topchidersky Park is hidden behind tram tracks, wasteland and rock. This quarry "Mashin Maidan" And Summer Topchiderskaya stage.

Until the 20s of the last century, stone was mined here for the construction of Belgrade villas, and the quarry received its name after the owner, Maša Dimic. In 1947, the Yugoslavs improved the abandoned quarry with the construction of the Summer Theater Stage, trying to decorate it in a medieval style.

The gates of an enchanted dragon cave in medieval Britain? – No, a stylized door in the Topčiderska quarry in Belgrade

The opera “Aida” was staged on the Summer Stage for the first time in Yugoslavia, and better times 2 thousand spectators came to watch the performances.

For unknown reasons, they stopped caring about the stage... Nowadays, its only visitors are climbers, cats and lizards. And bored teenagers, of course.

Teddy bear and turtle

The city administration has long been planning to revive the theater in the quarry, but still cannot solve the problems either with the owners or with the tenants in this place. I'll keep my fingers crossed and will be in the front row for tickets if the stage can still be brought back to life.

You can get to the Summer Stage and the Quarry Machine by tram number 3. Get off at the “Topčiderska Pozornica” stop, follow the sign to the “Topčiderac” restaurant and walk right through the restaurant courtyard. The waiters will only nod at you friendly, even if you don’t dine with them - you’re not the first, and you won’t be the last to stomp straight to the Topchiderskaya stage.

The photo does NOT show the passage to the stage, it is on the other side. This is just a cool arch in the walls of a quarry.

Unusual places in Koshutnjak

As for Koshutnyak, there are quite a few little-known places that seem to be in plain sight, but somehow escape the eye. For example, this small fenced piece of land in the depths of the park - the place of the murder of Prince Mikhail Obrenovic(the same one whose monument stands on Republic Square in the center of Belgrade).

The place where the prince was killed. WITH reverse side A memorial plaque is attached to the fence.

Or Khajduchka chesma - landscaped by who knows who and who knows when. But he became famous for the fact that the most outrageous rock concerts in Yugoslavia were held near him with tens of thousands of listeners (hmm, how did they all fit there?).

In the upper part of Koshutnjak, on the border with the urban area, there is sad marble pyramid, which is protected from final disintegration only by a reinforced exoskeleton.

I was never able to decipher the inscription on the pyramid (except for the word HELDEN - “heroes”)

This is the main monument on ruined German cemetery beginning of the 20th century. During World War I, the Germans began to advance on Belgrade. The Serbs then accomplished a real feat: 39 people fought with an entire regiment for two days and died on the battlefield, taking with them 200 German souls.

The German field marshal was so amazed by the courage of the Serbs that he ordered them to be buried along with the Germans and a monument to the heroes of both countries to be erected. This is probably the only cemetery in the world where the same honors were given to enemies as to their soldiers.

The inscription on the Serbian plate: “Serbian heroes rest here.” On the German plate: “Cemetery of German heroes.”

When the Second World War began, the Germans, now Nazis, began to bury their fallen among their predecessors on Koshutnyak. After the liberation of Belgrade, the Yugoslav command gave the order to clear the country of traces of occupation - and like a hurricane swept through the cemetery. Everything that the army did not destroy was stolen by the townspeople: the gravestones were perfect for decorating their houses and courtyards.

As a result of such clearing, literally no stone was left from the cemetery, and it was quietly overgrown with weeds until Helmut Kohl paid a visit here in 1985. After that, the grass was trimmed, and it was at least possible to approach the slabs. In 2014, the Serbian authorities came up with a restoration plan, for which they proposed to allocate as much as 40 million dinars. In 2018, however, the cemetery looks like the photos above.

Let's move away from this gloomy topic. Memento, of course, is mori, but still carpe diem. There are places in Koszutnjak Park with much more positive energy. For example, Aleksandar Club cafe with a unique view of Belgrade.

Photo: beowiki.com

It is located on a hill from which a short gentle slope descends. ski Track (ski stasis). Just a few years ago, when global warming was not yet so rampant over the Balkans, whole families had fun riding here.

Now the climate no longer allows such fun, so now in the winter families warm themselves by the fireplace, drinking mulled wine behind the large glass windows of the Alexander Club, and in the summer they sit on its spacious open area.

11) Aeronautics Museum

FAMOUS

Right next to Belgrade airport, a large puck-shaped building glistens in the sun, resembling a UFO on a stand. This Aeronautics Museum, another Belgrade attraction, where 600 dinars you can see and touch the unique collection aircraft different times and peoples.

Photo: Dungodung/Wikimedia Commons

In total, the museum contains more than 200 exhibits, of which 60 are shown to visitors. Among the latter, for example:

• a copy of the first touching Serbian airplane Sarich-1 (made in 1910 from wood and fabric),
• Oluj-11 - the first armed Serbian aircraft,
• famous military aircraft of the Second World War: Spitfire, Yak-3, Il-2, Messerschmitt Me-109, and I list them so importantly, as if I understand aircraft technology.

HIDDEN

While gazing at the elegant attack aircraft and helicopters, visitors do not pay attention to the black, twisted pieces of metal in one of the display cases. And these pieces are of great importance for the Serbs.

The remains of the Night Falcon. Photo: Marko-M / Wikimedia Commons

In 1999, during the NATO bombing of Yugoslavia, the American government incited its own "Night Falcon". It was the most famous, vaunted F-117A stealth fighter, and before the invasion of the Balkan skies it was considered invincible.

However, by some miracle the locals discovered him and shot him down with the help of a presumably Soviet rocket launcher (the pilot managed to eject, if anything). After this, the Serbs were overcome by a brief, desperate joy; they hastily printed posters with a photo of the fighter and a joke: “Sorry, we didn’t know it was invisible,” and donated the remains of the plane to the Aeronautics Museum.

The museum administration put part of the Falcon's mortal carcass on display, and thriftily hid other fragments in order to sell them piece by piece to eminent foreigners and ordinary visitors. What can you do? Extra money won’t hurt the museum.

12) Mount Avala and TV tower

FAMOUS

Millions of years ago, in the center of Serbia, one volcano was diligently chugging. The years have taken their toll, it has gone out, and now it is ordinary kholmogora Avala 511 meters high, located 16 kilometers from the center of the capital.

Avala is one of the most famous attractions in Belgrade; her silhouette topped with a needle TV towers, recognizable from afar and at any time of the day (at night the tower is effectively illuminated).

The 200-meter TV tower is already in its second incarnation: the first was destroyed by NATO bombs in 1999. For 300 dinars from the nose you can climb to the round observation deck at the top and, fighting the strong wind, look at Belgrade and the surrounding area. And from our window whole Srbija visible

On the floor above there is a small cafe where you can drink coffee with the same views, but without the participation of the wind.

The second “peak” of Avala is sealed by a monumental Monument to an unknown hero by the Croatian sculptor Ivan Mestrovic. The mausoleum is dedicated to the soldiers who died in the First World War.

Mausoleum-monument to an unknown hero. Photo: Mikhailo-Jovanovic / Wikimedia Commons

In addition, on the tops of the mountain there are a couple more cafes and a barbecue place - Belgrade residents love to come here on weekends to relax in nature and have a barbecue. And the sides and foot of Avala are a dense forest with dozens of walking paths - I don’t want to walk.

During the season there is a direct route from the center of Belgrade to the top. tourist bus; the rest of the time the usual one goes to the foot.

HIDDEN

At the top of Avala there used to be an ancient and beautiful Zhrnov fortress (or Zhrnovan), and the mountain itself was called the same. The first fortifications were built here by the Romans, then the Serbs erected a serious citadel on that foundation, and the Turks, having recaptured it from the latter, further expanded and strengthened the castle.

This is how pastoral the top of Mount Avaly once looked. Image: “Zhrnov, Serbian Avalon” – Radovan Damjanovic

Over time, the fortress was abandoned and it began to collapse, but still had every chance of surviving until the beginning of the era of tourism. Just imagine what a significant landmark it could become in Belgrade.

Ruins of the Zhrnov fortress on Avala. Drawing by Felix Kanitz / Wikimedia Commons

But in 1934, for some unknown reason, the King of Yugoslavia, Alexander I Karageorgievich, gave the order to blow up Zhrnov, and leave the vacant site to the imagination of the sculptor Meštrović.

Not a piece, not a lump, not a log from old fortress have not left. Why did the king need to destroy such valuable object, is still not known. Historians put forward different theories:

• Alexander might have thought that the fortress was a Turkish inheritance. Then the undermining of Zhrnov is based on a certain patriotic logic.
• on the contrary, Alexander was an ardent supporter of “Yugoslavism” - the idea of ​​​​the superiority of the community of Balkan peoples over one individual. And Zhrnov was a symbol of “Serbism” and was disgusted by the king’s ideas.
• King Alexander I and the sculptor Ivan Meštrović were Freemasons, and “sacrificing Zhrnov” was their cunning plan. Avala is a pyramid-shaped mountain (Masonic symbol), the king came to lay the first stone in the foundation of the new monument with a silver hammer in his hand (symbol), the mausoleum itself is also a pyramid, a copy of the tomb of King Cyrus in Iran, and there are also a lot of incomprehensible symbols around it.

View of Zhrnov, which has not yet been sacrificed. Cover of the book “Zhrnov, Serbian Avalon” by Radovan Damjanovic

The construction of the Monument to the Unknown Hero, of course, was necessary. The mausoleum with sculptures of women in traditional clothes of different Balkan peoples symbolized the unity of Yugoslavia. But because of him, the Serbs lost a very ancient and beautiful castle...

So, these were the 12 main attractions in Belgrade. After looking at their photos and reading the description, decide for yourself who to join - to Belgradophiles or Belgradophobes. And come - it’s better to see once than to read a hundred times.

- My God! What a small Vienna this is! – Glafira Semyonovna was surprised, looking out the carriage window at the places passing by. “Just now in the carriage, a brunette with glasses said that Belgrade is a little Vienna. This doesn’t look like Vienna at all! Belgrade doesn’t even look like our Tver.

1897, Leikin N.A., “A humorous description of the journey of the Ivanov spouses through the Slavic lands to Constantinople”

Sights of Belgrade - short list

Finally, a short list of the main attractions of Belgrade with their secrets:

1) Fortress on Kalemegdan

• big-eared guys
• twin fisherman
• underground passages and rooms

2) Prince Mikhail Street

• "Masonic" pyramid

3) Republic Square and the prince on horseback

• ominous Istanbul Gate
• monument to the prince without a hat, but with six cities

4) Skadar street

• portraits of a fortune teller and drummer

5) Hotel Moscow

• pumps
• Gestapo
• camels

6) Parliament building

• Batal Jamia Mosque
• observation tower from Macedonia

• Baron Wrangel and the shawl of Tsarevich Alexei
• Tashmaidan caves

8) Temple of St. Sava

• gold crypt

9) Old Zemun

• underground “lagums” and escape to Brazil
• colorful staircase

10) Parks Topcider and Koshutnyak

• quarry and summer scene
• the place of the murder of the prince and the Gaidutsky spring
• ruined German cemetery
• cafe with a unique view of the city

11) Aeronautics Museum

• invisible fighter seen and shot down

12) Mount Avala and TV tower

• mysteriously blown up fortress Zhrnov

 

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