How will the trip go? East Africa travel

Initially, I planned to visit Africa a few years ago, but it so happened that instead of Africa I went to Asia for a month.

But the thought of the dark continent haunted me.
And so the circumstances turned out to be such that Mikhail and I bought air tickets to Mombasa, a city in Kenya on the coast Indian Ocean and now travel to Africa has become a reality. We had to go not just to Africa, but to Black Africa, which has little in common with northern part continent. The states of northern Africa - Egypt, Carthage, and later the countries of the Arab Maghreb, were part of a completely different, Mediterranean civilization. Black Africa was separated from them by the Sahara Desert and developed almost in isolation until colonization. But even in our time, this region has not lost its flavor. In Africa, unique and amazing nature, and in some places it has been preserved almost in its original form. African safaris are considered the best in the world. Africa is washed by two oceans and provides great opportunities for beach holidays, aquatic species sports and entertainment. And of course, Africa is the ancestral home of humanity.
In the region between the south of modern Ethiopia and the north of Tanzania, the first man appeared. But at the same time, Africa is the hottest spot on the planet; the most military conflicts occur here. In Africa, a unique culture of violence has developed, where for several generations the violent resolution of disputes has been perceived as normal. And a boy of 8-10 years old here is already a warrior and a killer, and there are many countries where this is the order of things. Rituals of human sacrifice are still practiced here, and children are often victims of these rituals. There are tribes in which, as a gift to the bride, the groom must present the genitals of his enemy. There are still nations that have not and will not submit to any government and do not pay taxes.

With such a wealth of knowledge we had to go on a trip to Africa. Of course, we didn’t go into the thick of it, but chose, one might say, a calm region of East Africa consisting of four countries: Kenya - Uganda - Rwanda - the island of Zanzibar in Tanzania. The budget for our trip turned out to be about 130 thousand rubles per person, including air tickets and alcohol in duty free. When drawing up a plan for our voyage across the dark continent, we tried to make it as eventful as possible and include various types of tourism. At the same time, everything was planned so that visiting the countries would not be similar, that is, if we were on a safari in Kenya, then there is no point in going on a safari in Uganda and Rwanda, which is unlikely to compare with Kenya. Our plans came true almost completely and as a result we received:

East Africa travel itinerary

In Kenya - a safari through the country's National Parks, a visit to the original Maasai tribe (combined with a safari), a small cultural and historical part (examination of the old city in Mombasa) and a beach party holiday. In total, we stayed in Kenya for 12 days. Two days upon arrival in Mombasa, beach and relaxation after the flight and preparation for further travel. Five days of safari and the last five days of our trip were also spent in Mombasa and allocated for beach and party holidays. All places visited in Kenya (Mombasa - Nairobi - National Parks: (Amboseli, Baringo, Bogoria, Masai Mara, Naivasha, Nakuru)

In Uganda, the cultural and historical part consisted of a sightseeing tour of the country's capital, Kampala. One evening was spent visiting a local Kampala nightclub. Two days were allocated for trekking in the Rwenzori Mountains, the oldest ecosystem on the planet and one of last places almost unexplored by man. Now I think that this was not enough, it was necessary to allocate at least three days. In total, we spent 5 days in Uganda.

In Rwanda - sightseeing tour through the capital of the country, Kigali, and a visit to the village of modernized pygmies. We spent two days in Rwanda and already in the morning of the third day we flew to Zanzibar.

Zanzibar – Beach holiday and cultural and historical program in Stone Town. We set aside three days for a beach holiday in Zanzibar; we decided to relax a little after a busy day and simple trip. We spent one day in Stone Town, and had a sightseeing tour of “ Stone Town", with a local guide.

And at the end of our tour, as written above, we returned to Mombasa again to spend the last five days exclusively relaxing. Photos of our trip and practical information You can see about the countries we visited in this section. In the future I plan to write a report about each of the countries visited.

While Europe has long been explored and explored, and Asia has become a common destination for exotic travel, Africa still remains a blank spot on the map of most travelers. This continent is shrouded not only in an aura of mystery, but also, importantly, in stereotypes and prejudices. But you can and should go to Africa, because it represents a whole world, new and unknown. The main thing is to get rid of illusions and properly prepare for the trip.

Why go

Why go to Africa? This is the first question you need to ask before traveling to this continent. There are not many places in Africa for the usual beach holiday. And those that exist cannot offer a sufficiently high level of service or affordable prices. There are also few architectural landmarks and cultural sites in African countries. These are the consequences of wars, internecine conflicts, colonization and, in general, the inability of Africans to preserve their cultural and historical heritage. Of course, every country on the continent has attractions, but their number and degree of preservation cannot be compared with the countries of Europe and Asia. But Africa will definitely surprise with its national parks, where you can see wild animals in their natural habitat, beautiful and diverse nature, tribes with their unusual and exotic appearance and unique way of life.

Where to go

Geographically, Africa is divided into five regions: northern, southern, western, eastern and central. North Africa includes all countries of the continent on the coast Mediterranean Sea. South Africa includes countries in the south of the continent from South Africa to Angola and Zambia. TO West Africa These include countries located south of central Sahara and bordering the Atlantic Ocean. East Africa is the countries in the east from Sudan to. And the countries located in the heart of the African continent (from the Central African Republic to the Democratic Republic of the Congo) make up the Central Africa region.

In each region there are countries that are more interesting, safe and easy to travel, and there are those that it is better to avoid traveling to for one reason or another. For example, in North Africa, many have already visited, Egypt and, but Algeria and Libya known reasons deprived of the attention of tourists. In West Africa, it is worth visiting Ghana and Mali, but avoid traveling to Nigeria.

The most popular destinations among travelers are South Africa, Kenya and. Tourism in these countries is developing rapidly, more possibilities for travel, the choice of tours and routes is becoming wider, and more and more local travel companies are offering their services for organizing safaris and other trips. At the same time, these countries retain their original culture and true African exoticism and flavor.

When to go

The winter months (November to March) are considered the most suitable for visiting most African countries. During this period, most of the continent receives little rainfall, and there is no need to worry that the rainy season will interfere with travel. This is also true for South Africa, since in these months it is summer on the other side of the equator.

A trip to Africa can be timed to coincide with one of the most interesting events. For example, in early January, immediately after the new year, the annual festival of African music Festival Au Desert is held in West Africa. This festival is interesting because it takes place over several days in the open air right in the Sahara Desert. But for wildlife and safari lovers, you can go to Kenya or Tanzania from July to October to catch the Great Wildebeest Migration ( The Great Wildbeest Migration).

How to get there

Flights to most African countries are operated by major airlines in Europe (,) and Asia (Emirates, Etihad, Qatar Airways). These airlines do not operate direct flights from Moscow. One way or another, travelers will have to take transit flights, the time for which will have to be included in the route and travel plan. The most convenient connections and favorable rates to a number of African countries are offered Turkish Airlines airlines and Egyptair with a transfer in Istanbul and Cairo, respectively. And here transit flights can play into your hands: both airlines offer convenient and advantageous connections with short time waiting or, conversely, with the possibility of departure to final destination in a day. In this case, the airline offers passengers hotel accommodation, breakfast, transfer and sometimes city tours (). Thus, you can choose a convenient flight and transit option and visit another city. And the absence of the need to apply for a visa to Turkey or Egypt simplifies the task even more.

Direct flights from Moscow to Kenya (Nairobi) are offered by Aeroflot. In addition to Nairobi, Aeroflot operates flights to other African capitals: Algeria, Tunisia, Casablanca and Accra (Ghana). It flies to Nairobi and Johannesburg (South Africa) from Moscow (also in transit) and budget company Airberlin (closed).

You should be prepared for the fact that a flight to any African country will be quite expensive: on average, it is 35-45 thousand rubles, depending on the destination and the airline. Whatever flight method you choose, before buying a ticket you should always pay attention to promotions ( public VK), special rates and special offers from airlines. For example, Air France organizes ticket sales to African countries that were once colonies of France: Algeria, Senegal, Mali, Cote d’Ivoire and others.

Preparation: vaccinations and paperwork

When the purpose of the trip has been determined, the country has been selected, and the air tickets have been purchased, it’s time to take care of all the necessary documents.

Visa. Carefully study the migration and customs rules of a particular country. Visas for some countries are obtained very quickly, while others will take time to obtain. For example, to obtain an Angola visa you need a standard set of documents (application form, passport, tickets, hotel reservation confirmation, etc.) and up to two weeks of time. But getting an Algerian visa is much more difficult: this country is extremely strict visa regime for citizens of most countries in the world. Visas for Uganda, Ethiopia and a number of other countries can be issued at the border (at airports or ground checkpoints). It is necessary to familiarize yourself with the rules for obtaining a visa on arrival in advance, as in some countries entry permission is not issued at land checkpoints.
Some states (Kenya, Senegal and others) have introduced electronic system visa processing, in which all necessary documents Apply via the Internet on a special portal, and the applicant receives the visa by e-mail. The received entry permit must be printed and presented at the border.
By the way, there is Unified East African Visa, which allows stay in Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda and free movement within these countries without obtaining national visas of these states. This visa is issued only at the consulates of Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda; This document is not issued at the border or online.
Vaccinations. To visit most African countries, you must be vaccinated against yellow fever. Moreover, you must obtain an international vaccination certificate. This document is often asked when crossing the border, and it may also be on the list of documents required to obtain a visa. The certificate is issued on the day of vaccination at the vaccination point (in Moscow this is the Central Vaccination Point at Clinic No. 13). In addition to vaccination against yellow fever, it would be a good idea to get vaccinated against typhoid fever and hepatitis A, information about which will also be included in the certificate. But recommended vaccinations may vary by region.
Permissions. Visitor permits may be required to visit some sites in some countries. For example, travel to some cities in Eritrea requires similar permits, which are issued by the country's Ministry of Tourism. It is necessary to find out in advance whether any special documents are needed for certain objects on the compiled route, as well as where and how they can be issued (in advance via the Internet or during a personal visit upon arrival in the country).
Insurance. Don't neglect or skimp on. There are no special insurance requirements for visiting African countries. The main thing is to pay attention to whether the selected insurance company issues insurance to this region with the required amount of coverage.
Documents. It is worth finding out in advance whether foreigners need to register with the police station or migration service upon arrival in the country. If necessary, it would be a good idea to take with you the documents that may be needed for this (photo, copies of passport pages, copy of visa, etc.). These same documents will be useful when crossing state borders by land, especially if visas to these countries are issued at the border.

Safety: real dangers and stereotypes

There is a common belief that Africa is an extremely dangerous place. Of course, some of the common stereotypes have a basis, but, in fact, everything is not as scary as it looks in the eyes of the public. To ensure your own safety, it is enough to follow simple and well-known rules of conduct. As elsewhere, in African countries you need to politely communicate with local residents, ask permission to take a photo, and pay more attention to the laws and norms of behavior in a particular country. This will save you from possible problems with the police or locals. Corruption is very widespread in African countries. In relation to foreigners, this may manifest itself in the imposition of fines, services, inflated tariffs for certain services, or an attempt at extortion. Therefore, you should not provoke conflicts and ambiguous situations associated with violation of order, laws, norms of behavior, rules of movement around the country and crossing borders. This will save you from lengthy proceedings and extortion of money.

As elsewhere in the world, when traveling in Africa, you need to be attentive to your own belongings, money and documents. In most countries on the continent, theft is commonplace. Foreigners, especially whites, are considered rich by default, so robbing a white becomes almost a matter of honor for Africans. Of course, this does not apply to everyone without exception. But, it must be admitted, in undeveloped and poor countries with high level unemployment and corruption, such stereotypical thinking is common. Therefore, you should not take expensive things with you: electronics and equipment, gold jewelry. You should keep money and valuables with you, do not take out large sums on the street and keep an eye on your bag or backpack.

As for health, the same rules of sanitation and personal hygiene apply here as when traveling to Asia: do not drink raw water, avoid using ice in drinks (since it is most likely made from raw water), wash your hands more often, especially before meals, and refrain from purchasing and consuming street food. In fact, very often street food turns out to be edible and you can try it. It is only important to be careful when choosing food. For example, bread flatbreads, popular in almost all countries, are quite safe, but it is better to avoid buying fried meat (usually small pieces of meat on a skewer), since due to the hot climate and inappropriate storage and processing conditions, the meat may be spoiled.

When traveling to tropical and equatorial countries, you need to be aware of natural dangers associated with climate, insects, animals, and so on. You should avoid visiting, especially on your own, without guides, rural areas, wetlands, jungles and so on. You cannot walk barefoot or in open shoes on the grass and ground, or try to touch animals, even ordinary cats and dogs.

Malaria. It is no secret that malaria is very common in tropical and equatorial countries. A large percentage of infections occur on the African continent. The disease is transmitted by mosquitoes. There is currently no vaccine for malaria. That is, formally it exists, but is still being tested. It is too early to talk about whether there will be a certified malaria vaccine available to the population in Russia. Therefore, there is always a risk of infection. To reduce it to a minimum, it is important to remember that, firstly, you can protect yourself from mosquitoes (both ordinary and malarial) with ordinary repellents or tinctures with extracts of cloves (usually sold in pharmacies) and other natural substances whose odors repel insects Secondly, for an overnight stay you need to choose a hostel (hotel) that has a mosquito net hanging above the bed. It should be lowered as low as possible and cover the bed in such a way that there are no gaps and that the mesh does not come into contact with the body. Thirdly, it is important to remember that mosquito numbers increase with high humidity. This means that the risk of encountering a malarial mosquito increases near water bodies, in swampy areas and during the rainy season (where it is present). These factors must be taken into account when planning a trip and drawing up a route.

There is a lot of information and advice on the Internet about taking anti-malaria drugs as a preventative measure (Loriam, Malaron). It is extremely undesirable to take these drugs without a doctor’s prescription, and especially for preventive purposes, because, firstly, they do not provide an absolute guarantee that infection will not occur, and secondly, these drugs have a number of contraindications and huge amount side effects. They also put a lot of stress, and sometimes complications, on the liver, since they contain large quantities of quinine. Remember that not all mosquitoes in Africa are malarial, and there may not be any infection at all during the entire trip. However, it should be borne in mind that the incubation period for these diseases lasts from several days to several weeks, and the first symptoms may appear after returning home. Therefore, if you feel unwell, you must consult a doctor and inform him that you have returned from African countries. As for medications, they should be taken only in case of illness. You can buy them in pharmacies directly in African countries. They are much cheaper there. A rapid test for malaria is also widely sold, which you can do yourself in a matter of minutes. Upon arrival in the country, it would be a good idea to immediately go to the pharmacy, buy a test and medicine, and have them with you for the entire trip, as well as bring them home in case symptoms of the disease appear after returning.

Money: cash, bank cards, currency

In what currency should I take money with me (euro or dollar)? Depends on the region. For example, eight countries in West and Central Africa, once French territories and now members of the African Financial Community, use a single currency, the CFA franc (CFA), which is rigidly pegged to the euro. Therefore, when going to this region, it is better to take euros with you, since the exchange rate will be more favorable. In other African countries, the dollar has become more widespread, although the euro is also in circulation. But in some countries you may encounter difficulties when exchanging currency, be it the euro or the dollar. For example, in Uganda, $100 bills older than 2000 are cheaper, and exchange offices, both official and unofficial, are reluctant to accept them. And in Kenya, hundred dollar bills issued before 2006 may not be accepted for payment or exchange. When exchanging currency in banks and exchange offices you should pay attention not only to the exchange rate, but also to the commission that is often charged (for example, in South Africa).

Bank cards are not accepted everywhere. In more developed Kenya and Tanzania, cards can be used to pay at large hotels, supermarkets and safari agencies. In South Africa you can pay with a card almost everywhere. In smaller cities and less developed countries with much lower tourist flows, there are much fewer opportunities to pay by card or withdraw cash from an ATM. You can withdraw cash from your card at ATMs only in large cities. Sometimes withdrawing money from ATMs can result in the card being blocked, since Russian banks may perceive such transactions as suspicious (what if the card was stolen!). Therefore, you need to have cash on hand in case you cannot use your cards for some reason.

Sometimes you can pay in dollars (rarely euros) for individual services or goods. For example, in Kenya, a number of souvenir shops may accept American currency for payment. In this case, change will most likely be given in Kenyan shillings. With such a calculation system, you need to be especially careful, as they can be shortchanged. Also, dollars will be paid organized tours around the country, safaris and entrance to national parks and other similar services. It is worth preparing approximately 100-150 dollars in small bills to pay for taxis, excursions, and tips.

Price level and costs

When planning to travel around Africa, you initially need to be prepared for the fact that it is not budget direction. Prices for transport, food in cafes and restaurants, and housing are almost comparable to European prices. Price levels vary from country to country. Ethiopia can probably be called the cheapest country on the African continent. But even here it all depends on what travelers are going to see and how to spend their time. In general, for a two-week trip to Africa, you will most likely have to budget at least 1000-1500 dollars per person, not counting the air ticket. Of course, if you are planning a safari in a national park, that’s what people come here for.

Safari is the biggest expense item. And this is precisely what needs to be treated with great attention. Safaris are organized by local agencies, and their services are unlikely to be avoided. Firstly, because in most cases it is prohibited to be on the territory of a national park without a car and a guide, as it is simply dangerous due to wild animals. Secondly, a safari, as a rule, takes not one day, but from two to seven, depending on the route and the chosen national park. The cost of a safari varies and depends on the company, location, included services and number of days. On average, prices start from $130-150 per day per person. The price includes a car with a driver, a guide, overnight stays at a campsite or lounge, meals and entry fees to the reserve. Some companies also offer the services of a cook who will accompany you along the entire route, if the tour includes overnight stays in tents. Of course, the services of a cook will slightly increase the cost of the safari, but tents and so on necessary equipment included in the price. Drinks (water, juices, soda, beer) and tips for the driver, guide and cook will be paid separately. Tips are usually given in US currency at the rate of 5-10 dollars per person per day for each team member. The issue of tips should be discussed before the trip and it should be agreed what it will be - the total amount from the entire group or another form of incentive.

You can choose an agency for organizing a safari before leaving for Africa, contact it, clarify prices, information about the group being recruited and other organizational issues. In addition, very often such agencies offer their clients pleasant bonuses in the form of free transfer from the airport or free hotel accommodation for the night before departure for a safari. You can choose an individual safari for 2-4 people, or you can join a group and thereby slightly reduce the cost of the tour. By the way, you can always ask about the possibility of making a discount, and very often companies will accommodate you halfway. It is also possible to order a safari on site, at a hotel or guesthouse, of course, if the selected hotel (guesthouse, hostel) offers such services.

Transport

To travel around the continent, you can use the services of African airlines operating flights between major cities Africa. The cost of flights is quite high. For example, a flight from Dakar (Senegal) to Bamako (Mali) costs about 400 euros.

Another transport option is buses, both intercity and international, connecting the capitals and major cities of nearby countries. Here we are talking about the so-called “buses for locals,” that is, those that Africans themselves ride on. The cost of a bus ticket depends on the direction and region. For example, moving Dakar-Bamako will cost about 40 euros, but takes about 25 hours. In practice, this time increases several times. Firstly, because a stop is made at night, since it does not work at night border crossing, and in general, buses don’t run at night. Secondly, the vehicle fleet is mostly very old, buses break down often, and repairs take a lot of time. In addition, most buses are very uncomfortable, cramped and crowded, with hard seats, which makes such long journeys very tiring. Bus departures may not coincide with the schedule: very often they depart as the cabin fills up. Therefore, when choosing buses for travel, you need to remember the inconveniences of this type of transport and add extra time to your route.

Travel within countries intercity buses not expensive. In the same Mali, for example, average price bus tickets 8-12 euros. In Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa, there are rail connections between major cities, which makes traveling around these countries more comfortable and faster. The average cost of a train ticket can range from $30 to $60.

Trips around the city public transport available to everyone. For example, in Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania, matatu (analogous to our minibus) and boda-boda (motorcycle taxi) are very popular. The cost of travel on a matatu is less than on a boda-boda - about 1 and 3 dollars, respectively (depending on the country). Moreover, boda-boda are private cab drivers on their motorcycles, and bargaining with them is always appropriate, unlike matatu.

As for taxis, this is always the most convenient and fastest form of urban transport. But, as elsewhere, taxi trips are more expensive than regular buses and minibuses. For example, a taxi fare in Dakar (Senegal) costs an average of 30 euros, in Kampala (Uganda) – 25 dollars, and in Nairobi (Kenya) – from 40 dollars.

Hitchhiking, a favorite among many travelers in African countries, cannot be called popular. Firstly, giving someone a lift means providing a service, and in Africa they always ask for money for services. Especially when it comes to foreigners. Secondly, in some countries the situation with roads and, consequently, with vehicles is quite deplorable. For example, in the DRC there are very few roads as such on which cars can drive. And in Eritrea, due to the shortage and high cost of gasoline, cars are not popular. Thirdly, in African countries there are places that are either closed to foreigners or where visiting is not recommended (for example, war zones, military bases, etc.). Even the locals themselves often do not know that foreigners are not allowed to be in a particular place.

Where to live

Tourism in individual African countries is gaining momentum. At the same time, the choice of hotels and hostels for every taste and budget is growing. But still, the budget housing system has not yet been developed well enough to offer travelers accommodation that is affordable and of good quality. Prices for a double room in a guesthouse or hostel, like everything else, depend on the country, but on average it is 25-50 dollars. For example, in Kampala the average cost of a double room in a guesthouse is 25 dollars, in Nairobi - about 40, and on the island of Zanzibar - from 60. In Dakar, a double room in a hostel costs 25-30 euros, in Bamako and Mopti (Mali) - 20 euros . Of course, the average cost of housing is shown here, but it fully reflects the price level that can be expected in African countries.

What to eat

You can safely eat in cafes and restaurants, especially if there are a lot of foreigners in them. Of course, prices in such places will be much higher than in those where locals eat. By the way, locals in many ways prefer not cafes and restaurants, but street food, which not every foreigner wants to try. On the other hand, some street food is not very dangerous: for example, bread, flatbread, pastries, fruit. You should be careful when handling meat and fish. By the way, these are the most expensive products in many African countries. Always available and popular foods in Africa are: rice, millet, beans, sweet potatoes, chicken, eggs, bread, tortillas, pasta and vegetables. Simple dishes made from these products can be bought everywhere, both on street stalls and in cafes.

What to see

Africa is famous for its natural attractions - nature reserves and national parks, where you can see pristine nature, animals and flora, waterfalls, mountains, volcanoes and deep rivers. There are protected areas worth visiting for the sake of natural beauty in almost every country. The largest and most famous are the Masai Mara in Kenya, the Serengeti and Ngorongoro in Tanzania, and Kruger in South Africa. It is here that thousands of travelers come to go on safari, watch the wildlife, take spectacular photos.

Those who are more interested in history and African ethnology will be interested in traveling around Ethiopia and seeing the ancient cities of Axum and Lalibela, as well as visiting African tribes in the Omo River Valley. And those who are interested in the history of slavery can go to Senegal and visit the island of Gorée (Île de Gorée) with its slavery museum. It was from here that Africans began to be exported to the New World.

Africa can surprise even an experienced traveler. She leaves no one indifferent. Sometimes she repels you at first sight, and then nothing can change this feeling. And sometimes travelers fall in love with it immediately and can’t help but come here again and again, discovering new pieces of this still unfamiliar continent.

Tiqets.com and to avoid standing in lines for hours.
Flight delayed - take 600 euros

This is not some vacation on the beach, where bare-bottomed children squeal every now and then and human bodies EVERYWHERE, like bacon on a grill. And in the entertaining and educational television show “Bad Notes” there is no word about this. Our journey is for real fighters, for interesting and interested people, always ready for real adventures and travel.
SO, DEDICATED TO THE Wanderlust!

PART 1
When setting off on our next trip, we strive to travel around at least a quarter of Globe. So in this case, neglecting the good advice of the old man Korney Ivanovich Chukovsky “... don’t go, children, to go for a walk in Africa,” they decided to take a risk and go on a long and very dangerous journey to human life across SOUTH AFRICA. At the same time, check what’s wrong with this scary AFRICA. By the way, because We used the services of British Airways and decided to make a stopover in the English capital.
Our route is as follows: ENGLAND – SOUTH AFRICA – BOTSWANA – ZAMBIA.
There are tons of plans, clouds of hopes, and an infinite number of desires.

A LITTLE LITTLE GEOGRAPHY
Perhaps we’ll omit even the smallest geographical descriptions“Foggy Albion” and let’s not remember it in vain.
But we can talk about SOUTH AFRICA.

Our main journey began in the Republic of South Africa.
What did we know about South Africa before our trip?
What, South Africa is apartheid and Nelson (sorry) Mandela. That South Africa is the farthest south of Africa, bordering Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Swaziland and Lesotho. What is South Africa, is the meeting of two oceans, the Indian and Atlantic, this is the Cape Good Hope and the Kalahari Desert. They also knew that South Africa, these are the Orange and Limpopo rivers, this most beautiful cities and megacities such as Cape Town, Johannesburg, Durban. Have you heard that there is a magical place in South Africa called Hermanus? Imagine, without leaving your room, sitting by the window, you can admire pods of huge humpback whales. They don’t just come to the shore, they live there, jumping out of the water, showing their huge tails, and releasing fountains with a loud snort.
And also, since we are sea people, we knew that the green African winter is the most favorable time for diving in cages with a GREAT WHITE SHARK (but more on that a little later). Until then...

ABOUT CLIMATIC CONDITIONS
Firstly, the subtropics, secondly– season, almost all year round, for diving in particular, thirdly, the country does not have a clear division into seasons, only sometimes the night air temperature drops to zero, but during the day it is still quite warm. And fourthly, which is very pleasant, the time difference is only 1 hour ahead of Moscow, which is by no means unimportant (in winter it is two hours).

VERY LITTLE ABOUT THE NATIONAL CURRENCY
The national currency of South Africa is the rand.
1$ = 6 rand.
In general, I would like to note that the PRICE-QUALITY ratio in South Africa is pleasantly surprising.

ABOUT WEALTH

Gold, diamonds and other household necessities have been one of the main attractions of the Republic of South Africa since ancient times.
In 1886, a certain gold miner named George Harrison discovered a very, very large gold mine there (Lucky guy). Later, whole hordes of gold miners poured there. Thus, the small village of Johannesburg magically turned into a huge metropolis and the main city of the Republic of South Africa, which to this day has preserved the atmosphere of the gold rush.
Nowadays, South Africa ranks fifth in the world in gold and diamond production.

It must be said that the standard of living in South Africa is quite high; this can be appreciated almost immediately, driving along South African roads, checking into a hotel and dining in restaurants with a bottle of local wine (we highly recommend trying local dish Mussles and dry red wine PINOTAGE).
And hotels in South Africa and especially in Hermanus need to be discussed separately. Firstly, the hotels are located along the coast Atlantic Ocean, and as I already said, watch whales without leaving your room, and secondly, even 3* hotels can give a head start to 4* and even 5* hotels in other countries, for example Malta, England, France. Everything is too cozy, too beautiful, too extraordinary and stylized.

OUR GOOD ADVICE! When planning a trip to South Africa, you MUST visit the town of GERMANUS, the kingdom of satiety, good quality and prosperity. The impressions will last for a long time!

CAPE TOWN AT A GLANCE

About two hours on a good road to one of the capitals of South Africa - CAPE TOWN. The local wine and dried meat went with a bang, our souls felt so good and warm that we decided to swim in the cool waters of the ocean, although it didn’t matter whether it was Indian or Atlantic.
Refreshed and cheerful, followed by the perplexed glances of Africans wrapped in scarves, we hurried to the tops of the CAPE OF GOOD HOPE in order to take a look at TABLE MOUNTAIN, which decided to close just at the time we arrived, to admire the grandeur Drakensberg Mountains, two oceans, the Atlantic and Indian, and all of CAPE TOWN from a bird's eye view.
Wow, the whole of CAPE TOWN is at your fingertips. It seems that these places are specially created for thinking about the rational, the eternal and the like.
Unfortunately, one day is clearly not enough to understand what CAPE TOWN is like. Feel its contrast and unusualness of existence. But we need to hurry, big things and important discoveries await us tomorrow morning. We fly to DURBAN, a city considered the main destination for year-round beach holidays, surfing, snorkeling and, of course, DIVING.
I must say that after our stay in GERMANUS and CAPE TOWN, our reaction to DURBAN was not so enthusiastic. In terms of civilization and standard of living, DURBAN is clearly inferior to them. It’s not as cozy, not as clean, and the people are lazier.
The guide who met us, a former Ukrainian citizen, and now a real African named Pasha, speaking with a rough accent in both Russian and English, explained in a tone that did not tolerate objections that we should not go out into the city in the evening, we should carry a lot of money with us. It is not recommended and in general, we will live in the village, and there are no restaurants or shops there. And if we need anything, and we definitely need it, then we need to go far and for a long time, so sit in the hotel and don’t stick your nose out. “All sorts of people from Russia have come here in large numbers, there is no way to live from them, they are all bandits. 10 years ago, only the good ones came, me, and two others, but now only the bad ones, with whom I don’t want to be friends,” the Ukrainian Pasha sprayed, grazing enviously.
Yes..., the comrade turned out to be colorful in an African way and nervous in a Ukrainian way.

ABOUT DIVING

In the small village of Illovo Beach, just 20 minutes south of DURBAN, between the lagoon and the beach, our hotel Protea Hotel Karridene is located. Not presidential, of course, but quite good. In general, this hotel is considered 3*, but 4* can be assigned to it. Accommodation in standard, quite comfortable rooms overlooking the ocean, about 5 minutes walk to the ocean. This hotel can safely be called a diver's haven, because... This is where most of the groups that come to dive in the UMKOMAS area stay with spotted Raggie sharks and other marine delights.
AIVAL SHOAL, one of the most beloved and richest dive sites in the world, is approximately 10 minutes away from our hotel by car. According to the stories of our friends and descriptions on the Internet, these places are famous for the diversity of marine flora and fauna, ranging from tropical colorful fish, soft corals and ending with a large concentration of spotted needle-toothed sharks Ragged tooth shark, not too soft and fluffy in appearance, but absolutely not dangerous for person. Which is just right for us. They have bigger teeth, a softer character and are not too touchy; when you put a camera in their mouth, they don’t particularly resist, but prefer to get out of harm’s way.
We were met by local instructors who hosted all the stars in the world of scuba diving at their dive center. They fussily helped us with cargo and rebreathers, threw us into cars from cars in the zodiac and dragged us across the seas on the waves to dive.
Right there, on the first dive, we saw everything at once, as we had long dreamed of. So that in the foreground there is a school of toothy sharks, and in the background there are manta rays, eagle rays with turtles, cuttlefish, dolphins, stingrays, octopuses, a bunch of small and not small tropical fish, lobsters, lobsters, shrimps and all this in one frame. Envy us!
But, unfortunately, our further adventures were interrupted by a storm and we were unable to do as many dives as planned. Our last dive took place in stormy conditions. On a cool morning, we dragged a yawning instructor into the sea to a depth of approximately 30 meters, in 10-meter visibility, into roughness and complete emptiness. Our dive guide, thin and young, kept trying to get back, either the buoy was torn off from him by the wave, or it was dangling too much and was hitting the rocks. And we were just about to listen to him, when we came across a small cave in which our beloved ragged sharks were hiding. The lens of our camera captured a huge tangle of about 8 sharks, from a 2-meter thick and toothy one, to a small 1.5-meter one, not so thick, but also toothy. This is where we hugged freely. The sharks slowly swam out of their hiding place one by one in ascending order. They approached beautifully from the side and from above, exposing their sharp-toothed mouth and showing their white belly. They obviously didn’t particularly like that we disturbed them, but they behaved more than decently.
It was a nice hunt!

SODVANA BAY is outside the major settlements in the northeast in the historical Zulu zone. SODVANA BAY is surrounded by tropical forest reserves and the world's highest coastal sand dunes. Nearby is the huge 70 km relict lake Santa Lucia. This ancient lake, which is tens of millions of years old, is famous not only for its age, but also for the habitat of about 10 thousand hippos and crocodiles and is under the auspices of UNESCO.

SODVANA BAY is considered one of the best diving spots in the world with a year-round season. The so-called “mile reefs” attract our brother all year round. In the summer and spring months (January-April), tiger and whale sharks are actually found here, several individuals at a time. In winter, simply beautiful, relaxing reefs, tropical fish, different types corals Ideal conditions for photography, incl. for macro.
But, unfortunately, our failure was repeated in SODVANA BAY. Such a failure that it hurts to remember. The storm that we tried to escape from has left its mark here too. He made a mess, stirred up the entire seabed and scared away all the fish. And, just think that a couple of days ago, visibility in these places was 40 meters.
Our hearts were bleeding.

WHAT COULD YOU SEE IN SODVANA BAY IF NOT FOR THE STORM

The coral reefs of SODVAN BAY are located parallel to the shore at distances of 2,5,7 and 9 miles, they are called 2, 5, 7, 9 mile reefs. These are habitats for more than 1,500 species of fish. Visibility is ideal and the water temperature does not drop below 20 degrees (a clear exception during our visit to Sodwana).

5 MILE REEF – The most diverse coral system, the reef is ideal for test dives and is quite interesting for both beginners and experienced. The maximum depth of the 5-mile reef is no more than 24 meters.

7 MILE REEF – Divided into three parts by the north wall, amphitheater and Mushroom Rock. The richest flora and fauna, a magnificent slope, ideal visibility (again, the time of our stay is an exception). This reef produces a kind of relaxing effect and is no less loved by divers all over the world.

9 MILE REEF – Considered the most interesting side of all. It is significantly farther from the coast and is not as visited as others; the “highlight” here is the “green tree” - a huge coral growth 2.5 meters high. It is also full of a variety of fish, manta rays, rays, turtles and whale sharks are often found. Maximum depth 21 meters.

CANYON - it starts right after the 5 mile reef and goes down about 600 meters, the place is called Big Blue. Here, when flowing from north to south, they appear large fish, sharks, dolphins, manta rays, barracudas, etc.

We only managed to dive onto a 5-mile reef, but, unfortunately, apart from three pliable groupers, a school of yellow fish and surprised eyes under the masks of our friends, we didn’t see anything and for some reason we felt guilty about this, stupid right?

So, we had no choice but to wait for the day of departure for ZAMBIA in our huts with thatched roofs, called loggias. By the way, this is the only refuge for all those who come to SODVANA BAY to dive and fish. The housing is so-so, but you can live, and after two glasses of vodka, which is close to your body, it’s absolutely paradise.

NEXT,
along the path from yellow brick we, accompanied by fearless friends, went to the very center of Africa in ZAMBIA /
Zambia borders on everyone on all sides. In the north with Zaire and Tanzania, in the south with Zimbabwe, in the southwest with Botswana and Namibia, in the southeast with Mozambique, in the east with Malawi. Surrounded by demons!

ZAMBIA is located inland far from the ocean. Most of ZAMBIA is a high plateau from 1100 to 1400 m. In the northeast there are mountains up to 2164 m high.
The main attraction of ZAMBIA is, of course, VICTORIA FALLS.
The ZAMBEZI SUN hotel, where we stayed, is located almost on the territory of the waterfall, and we had the opportunity to admire without limit how hundreds of tons of water with deafening noise fall into a stone abyss from a height of more than 100 meters.
HAVE YOU EVER SEEN WHERE A RAINBOW STARTS AND WHERE IT ENDS?
HAVE YOU EVER TOUCHED A RAINBOW WITH YOUR HAND?
Oh, I touched it! It is soft, smooth and very warm. She is probably drawn every morning by an invisible plump angel with wings. He arrives early in the morning, at dawn, when everyone is still sleeping, and renews the colors with bright colors.

ABOUT ANIMAL WORLD

You know, Chukovsky was right. In Africa there really are sharks and gorillas and hippos-crocodiles and other large and small animals. Sailing on a pleasure boat along the Zambezi River, the impression is that the water in the river is snorting and squelching, due to the fact that curious hippos practically surround the ship. They stick out their noses and ears, and when you point the camera at them, they immediately hide in the muddy water and appear exactly at the moment when you remove the camera. Either they are embarrassed or they are mocking them, one of two things.

Almost the entire territory of ZAMBIA is teak forests and savannas with their numerous African inhabitants. Elephants, lions, rhinoceroses, antelopes and of course others. And this is only part of the living creatures that live in the savannas of ZAMBIA.

It seems that ZAMBIA is one big national park reserve. Zebras walk around the hotel grounds completely unattended, restless monkeys run around and steal sugar from restaurant tables (these walk under the supervision of a black guy with a slingshot). Outside the hotel grounds, elephants, buffaloes and antelopes graze, and any natural bodies of water are fenced everywhere with barbed wire, for the safety of both people and bloodthirsty animals, because... There is no trust in either one or the other, and one can expect anything from one or the other.

ABOUT CLIMATE

The climate in ZAMBIA is mild and subtropical. In the coldest time of the year, the temperature does not drop below +16 degrees. During our stay, the night temperature was no lower than +17 degrees, and during the day it rose to 26-28. We sunbathed, swam in the pool, drank a variety of cooling drinks and felt that, unlike Moscow, summer had finally arrived.

ABOUT POPULATION

ZAMBIA's population is approximately 9,460,700 people, of which 98.7% are African and only 1.1% are European. And if you speak Bemba, Lozi, Luvale, Tonga, or at worst Nyanja, then you are one of the people in Zambia.

The national currency of ZAMBIA is the Kwacha.
1 US$ = approximately 1300 kwacha.
And the Kwacha currency itself is formally divided into 100 ngwi.
Next, consider for yourself. Although, if you have problems with mathematics and don’t have a calculator at hand, you don’t have to recalculate, because In ZAMBIA we fully respect the good old US dollar.

Without relaxing, with the goal of taking a walk through the CHOBE National Reserve, we are heading to BOTSWANA.

BOTSWANA, like South Africa, is located in southern Africa.
It borders Namibia, Zimbabwe and Zambia and is landlocked.
Area - 600372 km2.
Population - 1448450 people.

BOTSWANA is a lowland country, the southwestern part of which is occupied by the Kalahari Desert.
The sights of BOTSWANA are national reserves with giraffes, zebras, antelopes, crocodiles and the so-called big five - elephants, buffaloes, cheetahs, rhinoceroses and lions.
So, when going to BOTSWANA, stock up on photo and video tape, because you are guaranteed to meet all kinds of living creatures.

Walk around national reserves, actually cannot be called a walk.
You sit in open jeeps and thus move around the park. It is not recommended to get out of cars, because... the animals you meet along the road perceive the car as a single object. They are not afraid, but prefer to avoid them, especially predators. Hands, legs, heads and other parts of the human body that are dear to memory are perceived by predatory animals as hooves, tails, trunks and other loin parts suitable for food. Therefore, it is not recommended to stick all this and something else out of the car. You can sit, you can look, you can even take pictures, just without twitching, without leaning out and in silence.

During our walk through the park, we were lucky enough to meet a lion and lioness who were planning to later become parents, giraffes calmly eating flowers from the bushes, huge herds of grass-munching hippos, rhinoceroses creating a real emergency situation by running in front of our car. For a whole hour we watched a herd of elephants who, one after another, swam across the river, placing their babies in the middle. And the baby elephant carefully held onto the tail of the swimming elephant in front of him with his trunk and went under the water with his head, only the tips of his ears sticking out.
Having swam to the opposite shore, these giant animals rolled in the mud, ran after each other, trumpeted and poured water on themselves from their trunks, like from a shower. Like children, honestly.

Yes, the fabulous country of Africa, a phantasmagoric country. Even the sounds here are unusual, fabulous. If you stop, turn off the engines of cars and boats and listen, you can hear the real voice of Africa, the voice of the savannas. It’s as if someone specially turned on a soundtrack where the singing of birds echoes the snorting of hippopotamuses, the roar of elephants, the squealing of monkeys and the splashes of water and the chirping of a restless cricket.
It’s just a shame that when trying to describe what I saw, I, as a non-professional person and not familiar with journalism, was unable to convey all the beauty and richness of what I saw during our BIG AFRICAN TRIP.

So, what is it about this terrible AFRICA? Why did old man Chukovsky speak so unflatteringly about this country? And what are the actual reasons why we leave our warm homes, leave behind small children, a thriving business and are ready to cough up a certain bloody sum of money?
And the reasons are:
1. SOUTH AFRICA has an ideal climate and best places for relaxation, entertainment, excursions and, of course, DIVING.
2. This most beautiful places on the planet.
3. These are famous wine farms.
4. These are familiar names from childhood: Cape of Good Hope, Victoria Falls, Zambezi and Limpopo rivers.
5. These are savannas, deserts and tropical swamps, quiet rivers and noisy waterfalls, snow-capped mountains and contrasting megacities.
6. This is an immense love for everything living, horned and tailed, hairy and toothy, soft and fluffy, clawed and carnivorous.
7. And finally, one of the main reasons why we are ready for a multi-hour flight, to pay for excess baggage that exceeds the cost of the consolation itself and other excesses is IT – THE GREAT WHITE SHARK.
Always proud and independent, with a serious expression on her “face”, the mysterious smile of Mona Lisa and a rather subtle and vulnerable mental structure.

THE WHITE SHARK IS NOT AS SCARY AS IT IS PICTURED

According to the oldest South African legend, when the Great White Shark first appeared to the world, it immediately gained enormous authority, both among marine inhabitants and (to be honest) among us, Homo sapiens.
For a long time, people listened to her, consulted with her, respected her, but at the same time feared her. A primitive people, uneducated and envious, somehow offended the “white-skinned” girl (with what, history is silent) and since then, her complexes have not left her. Her character became less affectionate, more hot-tempered and unpredictable.
We can say that the Great White has become a kind of victim of civilization.

Also, it is not uncommon for her to experience various types of depressive states and sudden mood swings.
Nowadays, due to the extreme sensitivity of the Great White Shark, fans who want to get to know their idol better are put in a special cage so that the little one feels more comfortable, does not receive unnecessary stress and does not upset the already weak nervous system.
And if you suddenly notice that the baby is not in the mood, it is better to leave her alone and let her be alone.

NUTRITION AND HEALTH

It must be said that the Great White Shark does not suffer from a lack of appetite, rather the opposite. She is not a fan of vegetarian cuisine; she does not consider plant foods a delicacy, but if offered, she is unlikely to refuse. Because of this, she is a big fan of meat and fish dishes. Gives greater preference to Japanese and Italian cuisine - sushi, sashimi, carpaccio and the like.

Unlike the nervous system, White sharks have a highly developed immune system. They practically do not get sick and live more than 50 years.
The digestive system and gastrointestinal tract work smoothly, despite the fact that they are big gourmets and love to eat a lot and deliciously.
Due to the fact that many individuals are susceptible to the sin of gluttony, they often suffer from bulimia. From incurability, which they have been suffering for millions of years.

Note: Bulimia is excessive hunger, voracious appetite, observed in some mental illnesses. Brockhaus.

The Great White Shark, like any star, has many enemies and envious people, thanks to which, for a long time, all sorts of rumors and gossip have been spread about the alleged bloodthirstiness and cruelty of this truly harmless creature. And the dissonant nickname “Ogre” stuck to her for centuries. But, in fact, it has already been scientifically proven that attacks by White sharks on all kinds of living creatures are often provoked by the inappropriate behavior of the “victim” itself. She just doesn’t like being scratched behind the ears and stroked on the back, and in general, all sorts of familiarity.
Take any famous individual, for example Philip Kirkorov. Try tickling his belly, the reaction is clear. Stars are so unique. So let's let the stupid tales about the Great White Beauty go to waste.

It should be noted that, despite all the machinations of envious people, pursuers, annoying fans and paparazzi, the White Shark to this day retains the strength of spirit, does not lose the joy of existence, and honors its ancient origin and still behaves as independently and boldly.

We will come to you again, our little one. We love you and won’t hurt you, all good people gather!

Ekaterina Tsvetkova (SCUBA)

It has occupied the minds of travelers for many decades. Washed by two oceans and two seas, the black continent is an ideal place to take the tour of your dreams and see striking contrasts, incredible landscapes, lost worlds and treasures left to us as a legacy by the civilizations of our ancestors. There is an opinion that a trip to Africa forever changes a person’s familiar world and he understands how different his own existence is from the life of those who were born on the continent, increasingly called the cradle of humanity.

Important points

To travel to Africa, in addition to a significant amount of money in your wallet, special vaccinations are often required. They are not mandatory, but very desirable, and their list for a particular region should be checked with the nearest infectious disease doctor.
Registration health insurance– the second important item on the list of must-dos before departure.
Many African states offer Russian tourist visa-free entry. The most popular among them by traffic are (up to 90 days), Seychelles(up to 30 days), (for 3 months).
The list of African countries where citizens require a visa, but are issued right at the border, is also very impressive. When receiving it at border posts, or a tourist may be required to present a hotel reservation, return tickets and proof of financial solvency.

Choosing wings

African destinations in general are not the cheapest in terms of air travel, but with the proper level of Internet skills you can always monitor ticket prices and take advantage of favorable special offers air carriers. In every country where it is customary to travel to Africa, there are enough modern airports. Dozens of airlines fly there every day from and to other continents:

Planes fly directly from Morocco, Tunisia, and to other countries you will have to make connections.
The largest air transport hub in the east of the black continent is the capital. It is possible to make a transfer to local airlines other African countries. There are regular flights from Moscow to Nairobi Qatar aircraft Airways, Etihad Airways and Turkish Airlines. Travel time, including connections in, is from 12 hours. The cost of a ticket from the Russian to the Kenyan capital is about $450.
Another popular African air destination is to. The road there from Moscow with a connection in, for example, will take about 17 hours, and a round-trip ticket will cost about $700.
Flying to Madagascar quickly and cheaply is not possible. The most pleasant options are usually offered by the French and Dutch carriers Air France and KLM. Price with connection at or – from $1300. You will have to spend 16 hours on the road, including transfers.

Where to stay in Africa?

Hotels in Africa are a very diverse concept. On the black continent there are hotels of all the world's famous chains, and lodges in the savannah, and small private guesthouses on the ocean shores of Cape Verde, and colonial hotels in Cape Town, and beach bungalows on or. The price of one night in a hotel in Africa can start from five dollars and fly into cloudless heights, and therefore both a thrifty backpacker and a nouveau riche of any kind, spoiled by the benefits of civilization, can find affordable accommodation here.

Nightingales are not fed fables

Where to eat in Africa is a complex, multifaceted question that requires a thorough approach. The main commandments of a traveler on the dark continent are to use bottled water for any purpose, avoid the presence of ice in drinks even in high-status hotels, and avoid tasting street food.
The all-inclusive system in hotels on the Mediterranean coast of Africa often leads to excessive consumption of free alcohol, which is not always prepared in the proper preparation traditions. In Africa, you should generally avoid eating and drinking in dubious places, because the consequences of such feasts can be very dire.
Choosing a place to live good hotel supporting the international system hotel classification, try, if possible, to have breakfast and dinner there. Vaccinations given in advance will also help to avoid troubles. intestinal infections.

In telegraph style

Experienced independent tourists, who have traveled the length and breadth of Africa, have their own opinions about its countries, prices, beauty and the advisability of traveling there. Briefly they look like this:

Kenya is relatively inexpensive compared to other African countries. Great safari, but not great developed infrastructure. It is difficult to move around the country without a rental car, and the main scourge is the local tribes, spoiled by the attention of tourists and persistently demanding money for absolutely everything.
Tanzania is an ideal route for your first trip to Africa. It’s better to organize a beach holiday on the island, but on Pemba – it’s inexpensive and not crowded.
Malawi is poor and very cheap country with excellent diving on the lake of the same name. National parks are not very expressive.
Mozambique – ideal beaches and low prices for holidays. The only “but” is difficulties transport infrastructure.
Botswana is a state with the best national parks in Africa. Botswana is more expensive than other African republics and a daily stay on a camping safari for a tourist here will cost at least $200.
Namibia has good service, developed infrastructure, excellent roads and ideally beautiful landscapes.
South Africa is an unreasonably expensive country, but attractions like Cape Town and the Cape of Good Hope are worth the money spent and the long flight.

The perfect trip to Africa

The black continent is located in two hemispheres at once - northern and southern, and several climatic zones “play” on its field. Africa is considered the hottest continent and it is here, in Ethiopia, that the place with the highest average annual temperature is located. In the settlement of Dallol it is +34°C.
In areas close to the equator, there is practically no change in seasons, but heavy rainfall occurs equally actively in any season. To the north and south, in subequatorial climate zones, there is a rainy season in summer, and in winter tropical trade winds bring dry air. Then the tropics begin and high temperatures combined with low doses of precipitation lead to the formation of deserts and semi-deserts.
Best time for visiting Africa - winter and spring, which fall from December to May in the Northern Hemisphere and from June to November in the Southern Hemisphere.

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