Seven peaks of the planet. Seven Summits Official 7 Summits Club

Previously, the site talked about. However, all these mountains are located in one part of the world - Asia, namely in two neighboring mountain systems, the Himalayas and Karakoram, therefore it is customary to distinguish 7 highest mountain peaks in the world, one for each part of the world. Climbers who have conquered all these mountains are members of the honorable Seven Summits Club.
There are 2 main lists of the seven peaks of the world. More difficult to climb is the list compiled by Italian climber Reinhold Messner. In this list, in addition to Asia, Europe, South and North America, Africa, Antarctica, not Australia, but Australasia appears as a part of the world, i.e. region including Australia, New Guinea, New Zealand and surrounding islands Pacific Ocean. Accordingly, instead of the highest peak in Australia - Mount Kosciuszko, whose height is only 2228 meters and which is very easy to conquer, the list includes Mount Jaya in New Guinea, whose height is 4884 meters and which was first conquered only in 1962. The list compiled by American mountaineer Richard Bass is more traditional from the point of view of Russian geography; it includes Australia rather than Australasia as a part of the world.
Thus, the highest peaks in the world become not seven, but eight. In some interpretations there are even nine of them, because Geographers still disagree about the border between Europe and Asia, so the highest peak in Europe is either Elbrus in the Russian Caucasus or Mont Blanc in the Alps.
In this article we will use the Messner list because... it is he who is presented as the main one on the website of the Seven Summits Club - 7summits.com. The mountains in the ranking are sorted by height, starting with the highest.

The highest mountain peak in Asia - Chomolungma V mountain system Himalayas, also known as Everest. Chomolungma in Tibetan means “mistress of the winds.” As for the English name Everest, it was given in honor of Sir George Everest, head of the geodetic survey of British India in 1830-1843. The height of the peak is 8848 meters. Chomolungma is located in China, namely in Tibet, on the border with Nepal. The first ascent of the mountain was made on May 29, 1953 by Sherpa (Sherpas are a people living in Eastern Nepal, as well as in India) Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary. The climbers used oxygen devices. More than 30 Sherpas took part in the expedition.

Highest mountain peak South America - Aconcagua in the Andes mountain system. Height 6962 meters. Located in Argentina. Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the western and southern hemispheres. In mountaineering, Aconcagua is considered a technically easy mountain if you climb along the northern slope. When climbing, the influence of altitude is noticeable, Atmosphere pressure at the top there is approximately 40% of the pressure at sea level. However, the use of oxygen tanks when climbing is not required. Even children can conquer this mountain with proper training: in 2013, 9-year-old American Tyler Armstrong did it, and in 2016, 12-year-old Romanian Dor Jeta Popescu did it.

The highest mountain peak in North America is Denali, part of the Alaska Range. Height 6194 meters. Located in the USA (Alaska). From 1896 until August 28, 2015, the mountain was called McKinley, in honor of the 25th President of the United States of America, now the mountain has been returned to its traditional Indian name - Denali (this word means “great” in the language of the Athabascan Indian people). From 1799 to 1867, the mountain was the highest point of the Russian Empire, until Alaska, where Denali is located, was sold to the United States. This peak was first conquered in 1906 by the American expedition of Frederick Cook.

The highest mountain peak in Africa is Mount Kilimanjaro. Height - 5895 meters. Located in Tanzania. Climbing Kilimanjaro is considered quite simple, but requires time for altitude acclimatization. Along the main routes leading to it, almost any healthy person can climb it, without mountaineering training or special equipment.

The highest mountain peak in Europe and Russia is the Elbrus volcano. Height 5642 meters. It is located in the Caucasus, on the border of the republics of Karachay-Cherkessia and Kabardino-Balkaria. The first ascent of Elbrus was carried out by a Russian expedition led by Georgy Emmanuel in 1829.

The highest peak in Antarctica is Vinson massif. Height 4892 meters. The first ascent took place in 1966 by an American expedition led by Nicholas Clinch. Conquering Vinson is not a cheap pleasure due to the inaccessibility of Antarctica and heavy climatic conditions(even in summer the temperature on the massif does not rise above minus 30 degrees Celsius): you must either organize an expedition yourself or pay for services travel company, which cost about $30,000 per person and include shipping to Antarctica from Chile.

The highest mountain peak in Australasia (the region that includes Australia, New Guinea, New Zealand and the adjacent Pacific Islands) - Jaya(other name - Carstens Pyramid). Height 4884 meters. Jaya is the highest mountain in the world located on an island. The first ascent of Jaya took place in 1962 - it was made by a group of four Austrian climbers led by Heinrich Harrer.

Members Club 7 Summits(7 Summits Club) are climbers who have climbed the highest peaks of all 7 continents. The idea of this project arose in 1981 (naturally, in America), and the first members of the Club appeared in 1985 and 1986 (there are two versions of the list of the 7 highest peaks, more on that below). Today, the Seven Summits is one of the most popular commercial programs among “climbing collectors”: tens of thousands of people are trying to implement it. At the end of 2011, according to at least one version, only 348 climbers managed to do this. As part of the 7 Summits program, ascents are usually carried out along the simplest “standard” routes.

7 Peaks

So, the 7 highest peaks of all continents are:

1. Everest (Qomolungma), 8848 m. Asia
2. Aconcagua, 6962 m. South America
3. McKinley (Denali), 6194 m. North America
4. Kilimanjaro, 5895 m. Africa
5. Elbrus, 5642 m. Europe
6. Vinson Peak, 4897 m. Antarctica
7a. Pyramid of Carstens (Puncak Jaya), 4884 m. Australia and Oceania ( New Guinea)
7b. Kosciuszko Peak (Kosciushko), 2228 m. Australia

There is controversy regarding Australia's highest point. If we consider only the continent of Australia, it will be Kosciuszko Peak with a height of 2228 m. The highest point of Australia and Oceania (which, in addition to Australia, includes adjacent islands and archipelagos) will be the highest point of the island of New Guinea - Carstens Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), 4884 m. Therefore, today Every day there are two options for the Seven Summits program: with Kosciuszko Peak and with Carstensz Pyramid. The main (and more complex) program is the Carstens pyramid.

Route to Elbrus from the south, through Shelter 11

Climbing route to Elbrus from the North

4897 m. Antarctica. Perhaps the most inaccessible peak of the seven. The Vinson Massif was discovered only in the 50s of the last century during an airplane flight. Unexpectedly, this peak turned out to be the highest in Antarctica. Technically, the route is not difficult, but it is extremely difficult and expensive to get to the foot of the mountain, especially since the organization of ascents is monopolized by the Canadian-English company “Adventure Network”. Nevertheless, more than a thousand people have already been to the top of Vinson.

View of the Vinson Massif

Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), 4884 m. is located in the Irian Jaya Mountains on the island of New Guinea (in its western part, belonging to Indonesia) and is the highest point of Australia and Oceania. The first ascent of Carstens in 1962 was made by the Austrian climber Heinrich Harrer (known to us from the film “7 Years in Tibet”). However, until recently the peak was little known and this ascent did not arouse much interest. The climb to the limestone peak itself is not particularly difficult; the main difficulties are the lack of infrastructure, inaccessibility and the difficult equatorial climate.

Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya)

Kosciuszko Peak, 2228 m - the highest point in Australia. It is a peak in the Snowy Mountains range, slightly rising above its neighbors. The ascent does not pose any technical difficulty.

Kosciuszko Peak... somewhere there

History of the 7 Summits project

The idea of climbing the highest peaks of all continents first came to the mind of an American millionaire Dick Bass after he climbed McKinley (Denali), the highest point in America, in May 1981. Another millionaire became his partner in the project - Frank Wells. In 1981, they went to Elbrus - it turned out to be not difficult organizationally, the MAL system, the harbingers of today's commercial mountaineering, was already working. Only Bass made it to the top. Next was Aconcagua, and not the easiest Polish route was chosen (like acclimatization and training for Everest). Only Bass made it to the top again. In 1982, Bass and Wells joined Lou Whittaker's expedition, which planned to complete the Norton Couloir route - unfortunately, without success.

In 1982, after climbing Everest using the classic method from the south, the idea of the 7 Summits project captured Patrick Morrow, a professional mountaineer and photographer from Canada. An unspoken competition began.

In September 1983, Bass and Wells entered Kilimanjaro, and a week later, Elbrus. Morrow in 1983 climbed three peaks from the list - Elbrus, Kilimanjaro and Kosciuszko Peak in Australia. Before completing the program, all he had left was Vinson in Antarctica, which in those years was practically inaccessible to climbers. Bass and Wells managed to organize an expedition to Antarctica at the end of 1983, Chris Bonnington and A. also took part in it. Morrow did not have the $200 thousand needed to join this expedition. At the end of November, the expedition members managed to reach the summit (), and Miura also skied down from the summit. On the way back, Bass and Wells stopped at Kosciuszko Peak in Australia. Morrow organized an expedition to Antarctica in the winter of 1984-85, but due to bad weather and aircraft breakdowns they were unable to reach their destination.

On April 30, 1985, Bass managed to climb Everest from Nepal - thereby becoming the first member of the 7 Summits club in the “Kosciuszko Peak” version. Frank Wells never climbed all 7 peaks; in 1994 he died in a plane crash.

Patrick Morrow reached the top of Vinson on November 19, 1985, and Elbrus was still left for him. He was not satisfied with the role of the second, so he decided to support the idea that he was actively promoting Reinhold Messner- the list of 7 Summits should include the highest point of Australia and Oceania with a height of almost 5 kilometers, and Kosciuszko Peak, which is of no climbing interest, with a height of only 2228 m.

Messner at that time (actively trying to become the first climber to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, which he succeeded in 1986) also decided to join the race for the Seven Summits. He climbed Carstens back in 1971, it was his first peak from the list of 7 Summits. In 1983, Messner climbed Elbrus and Kosciuszko Peak - and he was left with only the inaccessible Vinson, having climbed which on December 3, 1986, he became the 2nd member of the club according to the “Carstens Pyramid” version (this option is also called the “Messner List”) and 5th - according to the “Kosciushko Peak” version (Bass’s list). Morrow climbed Elbrus on August 5, 1986, becoming 1st on the Carstens Pyramid list and 3rd on the Kosciuszko Peak list. Morrow was also the first to climb all 8 highest peaks (this list includes the Carstens Pyramid and Kosciuszko Peak).

Records

The very format of the Club - “the highest peaks of the world” - involves the pursuit of records and their careful recording. The number of possible nominations for “the very first” is almost endless, but we will still list the most significant “records”. So:

The first woman to complete the 7 Summits program was Junko Tabei in 1992.

In 2007, Austrian Christian Stangl climbed all 7 Summits in Messner’s version alone (presumably, without the help of guides - it’s hard to imagine climbing Everest solo along the classic route) and without additional oxygen. However, Messner, Ed Vesturs, and the Czech climber Miroslav Kaban also climbed Everest without additional oxygen (and on other peaks it is not needed) as part of the 7 Summits program.

American Kit DesLauriers in October 2006 not only climbed all 7 peaks in Bass's version, but also skied down from them (as far as possible). A year later, Swedes Olof Sundström and Martin Letzter skied down the Carstens Pyramid, skiing all 8 of the highest peaks.

Lezter with skis under the Carstens Pyramid. It’s not clear where you can go there, but at least you got your skis to the top :)

Age records: on May 17, 2006, Rhys Jones completed the program on his 20th birthday, after which the record was updated almost every year, on December 24, 2011, American Jordan Romero climbed all 7 peaks (the last one was Vinson), in aged 15 years 5 months and 12 days.

In January 2010, Spaniard Carlos Soria Fontán climbed Kilimanjaro, completing the 7 summits program at the age of 71.

New Zealanders Rob Hall and Gary Ball were the first to climb all 7 peaks during the year; in 2008, the Dane Heinrich Christiansen completed the program in 136 days; in 2010, Vern Tejas improved this achievement by 2 days. Christiansen's schedule was: January 21 Vinson, February 6 Acocagua, February 13 Kotsyushko Peak, March 1 Kilimanjaro, March 14 Carstens Pyramid, May 8 Elbrus, May 25 Everest and June 5 Denali. The women's record of 360 days was set by Englishwoman Annabelle Bond, and in 2013 Vanessa O'Brien climbed all 7 peaks (including the Carstens Pyramid) in 10 months.

How much does it cost?

The 7 Summits program is one of the popular products of commercial alpine tourism. Moreover, it is almost impossible to organize an ascent to some peaks, such as Vinson Peak or the Carstens Pyramid, on your own due to their remoteness and inaccessibility.

For example, the cost of climbing under the 7 Summits program of one of the Western operators (in $) and one of the Russian ones (in rubles). You can probably find cheaper prices, but these numbers give a general idea.

Material prepared:(Leonid Smidovich)

Publication of this material on other resources only with the permission of the site administration.

7 Summits - the “Star Seven” of the highest peaks of each of the Earth’s continents:

"7 Summits" is a collection of climbs to the highest peaks of the seven continents. The program appeared in 1981 and has since become popular.
Today, more than 40 thousand people in the world are implementing the program, and more than 150 have already conquered all seven peaks:

Mountains in the climbing challenge "7 Summits"

Everest (8848m) - highest peak Asia and the highest peak on Earth. Located on the border of Nepal and Tibet.
Aconcagua (6962m) is the highest peak in South America. Located in Argentina.
McKinley (6194m) is the highest peak in North America. Located in the USA, Alaska.
Kilimanjaro (5895m) is the highest peak in Africa. Located in Tanzania.
Elbrus (5642m) is the highest peak in Europe. Located in Russia.
Vinson Massif (4897m) is the highest peak in Antarctica. Located in Antarctica.

And 2 controversial peaks:

Pyramid Carstensz (4884m) is the highest peak in Australia and Oceania. It is located in Indonesia on the island of New Guinea.

Kosciuszko Peak (2228m) is the highest peak in Australia. Located in Australia.

DICK BASS AND THE SEVEN PINKS PROJECT.

Mountaineering competitions.

Sometimes, especially during the ideological confrontation of the period cold war, European mountaineering authorities lost their temper at the mere mention of the possibility of competition in mountaineering.
This, they say, contradicts the very spirit of freedom.
They were probably right. However, nothing can be done about it; it is a fact that the entire history of mountaineering is a history of competitions, a history of struggle for championship, for recognition and, most terribly sinful, for money.

Our story is about the birth of a unique mountaineering race, an unusual competition that is now uprooting many amateur and professional mountain climbers from their homes, forcing them to travel across continents.

The role of personality in history. McKinley - the beginning of the project

Richard "Dick" Bass

Among the American multimillionaires tormented by affairs there are different types personalities, including many original ones. One of them - - has a face that is, in its own way, classic for its class - a constant wide smile, demonstrating optimism and educational self-confidence.

However, nothing artificial - “wide-short” Bass, he is like that by nature. An unbridled optimist who easily hides from the public all the doubts that inevitably torment any person. Especially playing risky games on the edge of the abyss. As an oil and coal magnate, Bass did many original things.

So one fine day he purchased a plot of land in a mountain gorge in Utah and created one of the most interesting ski resorts USA under the name Snowbird.
He put no less soul into its development than into raising his four children. In the winter of 1980-1981. The famous American climber Marty Hoy got a job at this resort in the rescue service.

She was the only female certified guide authorized to take clients to the highest peak in the United States - McKinley. At their first meeting, Bass did not quite seriously remark whether we should go to this peak together. He had some climbing experience behind him, in particular, he went to the Matterhorn with his two sons and climbed Mont Blanc. Marty’s answer was insultingly defiant, saying, “he doesn’t have enough reactive gases.” Dick was hurt by this, and he decided not to leave the challenge unanswered.

The highest point in North America, Mount McKinley, located in Alaska, is now often called by another name - Denali, in the Indian manner. At one time it seemed that enthusiasts in the struggle for the honor of local names had won a complete victory, and the name of the 25th President of the United States. (murdered in 1901 by an anarchist) William McKinley will disappear from geographical maps. However, the situation soon reached a dynamic equilibrium.

To many, the name Denali already seems imposed by bureaucrats. There is an opinion that the general massif is named Denali, and the specific mountain is McKinley, and this is a convenient way out of the situation. Its height is 6194 m. The peak is located beyond the Arctic Circle, this alone speaks volumes. The proximity of the sea and altitude make the climate changeable and difficult to predict, in winter time The conditions here are simply cosmic.

There are quite a lot of routes on McKinley, but most climbers go along the West Buttress - long and technically uncomplicated.

At least 20 thousand people have already successfully climbed the highest point in the United States. In May-June there are usually good conditions for climbing. This is largely due to the comfortable conditions of the 24-hour polar day. McKinley climbing programs are scheduled for at least two weeks and cost around $3,000.

The history of the first ascent of the mountain is quite complex. Until recently, it could be said that the first recognized ascent to the highest point was made on June 7, 1913 by four Alaskans led by priest Hudson Stack, who, by the way, was the first to begin the fight to return the name of Denali to the peak. Now, I don’t want to say that. Our climbers Oleg Banar, Viktor Afanasyev and Valery Bagov gave too convincing arguments in defense of Frederick Cook and his 1906 ascent.

The first winter ascent was possibly made by the famous Japanese traveler Naomi Uemura. However, this is not known for sure: on the last communication, on February 13, 1984, he reported that he was on the pre-summit ridge. Maybe even on the way down. No one saw him again.

Bass had a strong character, his tenacity and enthusiasm could work wonders. The expedition took place a few months later - in May 1981. During the ascent, Bass noticed that he was working on the route no worse than more experienced and younger climbers. McKinley is a difficult mountain in all respects; there is simply not enough money to climb it. You need patience and endurance, the ability to work every day in a harsh and changeable polar climate. One way or another, this is where the birth of a real climber took place.

During the expedition, Dick, who was not particularly athletic, showed simply miracles of ability to work. And after a successful ascent, Marty, in the same style, gave him an apologetic compliment: “Bass - you’re just a beast!” Later he would write that it was these simple words that inspired him to undertake the riskiest project in his life.

His Idea arose suddenly, it happened on the descent from McKinley. What if you climb all the highest peaks of the continents! However, it finally materialized later, when Dick unexpectedly received a call from a representative of the executive director of the Warren Brothers film company, Frank Wells.

It turns out that a similar non-standard thought was born in the head of another multimillionaire. Moreover, she appeared after reading an article in the newspaper about Bass’s ascent to McKinley. The idea was that this needed to be done quickly, within one, maybe a year and a half. They are no longer young people - over 50, and they wanted - once they got in shape, to climb all the peaks.

For the sake of this project, Wells left his high and lucrative post, which he had been striving for for 15 years. But the main thing is to learn to reach the top in business, and later he managed to achieve the same outstanding position in another famous company - Walt Disney.

Highest point in Europe

At the beginning of the discussion of the program, a certain incident arose.
Frank believed that he had already been to the highest point in Europe - Mont Blanc.
However, his friends corrected him; the highest point in Europe is Elbrus. An extinct two-headed giant, lost somewhere in a mysterious state called the USSR. “Well,” said Frank, “Russia is an adventure in itself.”

It turned out that organizing an ascent to Elbrus is as easy as shelling pears. You pay the money ($850) and go, everything else is done by a Soviet organization called the International Mountaineering Camp (IMC) “Caucasus”. However, despite the clarity of the organization, good weather and the excellent work of Soviet guides and instructors, the expedition did not end in complete success.

On the saddle of Elbrus (5300 m), Wells became ill to such an extent that he lost coordination of movements and self-control. Literally by force they managed to turn him down. Having dropped the altitude, he came to his senses. But among the Americans, only Bass reached the top in 1981.

Elbrus is the highest point in Europe and Russia. Located in the central part Caucasus Mountains, slightly north of the Main (Watershed) Ridge. Elbrus is an extinct volcano with two peaks almost equal in height. The highest of them is Western - 5642m, Eastern reaches 5621m. The first ascent was made on Eastern peak in 1829 by the conductor of the Russian military-scientific expedition Kilar Khashirov.

In 1874, the British climbed the Western Peak with the Swiss guide Peter Knubel. During Soviet times, Elbrus became the object of mass ascents. For a long time, the starting point for climbing was the famous “Shelter 11”. In 1998 it burned down, but this did not stop the flow of climbers. Hundreds of climbers climb to the top every year, although exactly how many are unknown; unfortunately, there is no uniform statistics. In addition to the route from the south, which is followed by the vast majority of climbers, there is a northern route, where a small shelter has also been built.

The conflict began in South America

Was it easy for Bass and company to reach the highest peak of South America - Aconcagua? It's not even easy. The ascent was planned as a training and acclimatization climb before Everest. Therefore, we chose not the classic route, which is a simple high-mountain trail, but a more complex snow-ice “Polish” route. Its upper part is a rather steep slope, turning into a long ridge. Arranging reliable insurance for the entire route here would take too much time. Therefore, the insufficiently prepared Wells was again left without the top. And Bass reached the summit on January 21, 1982, together with the famous climber Jim Wickwire.

The summit of Aconcagua is also officially called Cero Aconcagua. Height - 6962 m, located in Argentina, near the Chilean border. The mountain has a pronounced asymmetrical character: a steep southern wall and gentle slopes on the other side. It is also of volcanic origin. The classic route comes from the west, approaching the summit from the north. This is a path that winds among the rocky heaps of the western slope. There are no technical difficulties. Even donkeys climb this path. However, there is danger in ease.

An altitude of almost seven thousand meters implies hypoxia, often cold and wind. The Plazza Mules base camp is located at an altitude of 4200 m. It is clear that spending the night here already poses certain difficulties for non-acclimatized people. Usually people go to the mountain with two overnight stays at 5300 m and 6000 m. Above there is a shelter where you can stay if the weather suddenly changes.

The first ascent of Aconcagua was made in 1897. The expedition, which did a lot to explore the area, was led by the Englishman Edward Fitzgerald. In the first attempt, only one person reached the summit - Swiss guide Matthias Zurbriggen.

Fitzgerald made a second ascent a few days later. The first great achievement of Polish climbers in the mountains of the world was the opening of a new route to Aconcagua from the north along the glacier, which became known as the Polish one. They took this path in 1934, it is more difficult than the classic one and requires the use of cats. The South Face is one of the most challenging climbs in the world. It has been completed a few times. For the first time - by a strong French team in 1954.

A few days after Bass, 28-year-old Canadian climber Pat Morrow climbed Aconcagua. Interestingly, he also considered this climb as a training climb for Everest.

By this time, Morrow had chosen a career as a professional mountaineering photographer and journalist. An exciting, but not very profitable activity. Unlike his opponents, he could participate in expeditions either on editorial trips or at the expense of sponsors. However, Morrow was a truly strong climber, and this qualified him to participate in the Canadian national expedition to Everest.

Everest. A real challenge.

The highest point of the planet has long been shrouded in an aura of mystery. Everest defeated several attempts to climb from 1921 to 1952. Only y.

By the early eighties, the number of those who ascended was not much greater than the number of those who died on its slopes. In the 1970s, climbing Everest meant joining the elite mountaineering club. This is how it remained in the early 80s, when Bass and Wells set their goal to climb it.

They could only get to the top as part of a strong expedition and with a successful combination of circumstances. The matter was complicated by the fact that the Nepalese and Chinese authorities issued a single number of permits. The result was a terrible queue for years to come. However, it was precisely in the early 80s that money began to play its usual role as a disruptive tool here. Although back then connections and good relationships with people were still in the foreground.

Bass and Wells got into the team, made up of the best American climbers and led by Lou Whitaker, quite easily, thanks to Marty Hoy, who was one of the most respected participants. This attempt had practically no chance of success for them; the route was too difficult.

Friends understood this, but it was important to gain the necessary experience. They were part of an expedition that set as its goal to climb the unclimbed Norton Couloir.
The route from the north was quite within the capabilities of their team, but during one of the decisive exits Marty Hoy made an absurd tragic mistake.
She fell and died.

Marty was a beautiful and intelligent woman who was equal in technique and endurance to the best climbers. She dreamed of going to the Seven Summits with Dick, and her death was a great shock for the entire expedition, which soon curtailed its work.

Everest has two other official names. The official Sino-Tibetan is Chomolungma (or Chomolungma) and the official Nepalese is Sagarmatha. Its height is 8848 m, although measurements made by the latest methods show 8850 m. Currently, Everest has turned from an elite into an object of mass mountaineering. However, mass popularity is very relative. This event is very expensive.

The only thing guaranteed is that it will be very difficult, patience and endurance will be required, dry air will rip your throat, constant thirst will make thoughts about drinking obsessive, and the brain will be unable to think about anything seriously, just count the steps until the next stop.

There are two most popular routes to Everest. From the south from Nepal they go through the Khumbu Icefall and the South Col. From the north, from China, the route has more technical difficulties, but they are solved thanks to stationary stairs and railings.

Expeditions from here are generally 2 times cheaper. Now, during the most popular spring season, on both routes, Sherpas are working the slopes and hanging thousands of meters of fixed rope. But even so, the weather decides everything. Favorable conditions for ascent can be expected for weeks. And after waiting a moment, dozens of climbers go to the top. The Nepalese authorities have set a very high fee for a permit; the Chinese (from the north) charge less, but still a lot. But now, unlike the times of Bass, there are no queues, there is money - I got ready and went.

Unlike Bass, Pat Morrow successfully climbed Everest using the classic route in the fall of 1982. On the descent from the summit, Pat pondered his future plans. Why not try to climb all the highest peaks on the seven continents? Already at home, friends gave him an article from an American magazine to read, which talked about two eccentric millionaires (Bass and Wells). It was difficult to imagine how they could climb Everest, but the publicized idea forced Morrow to become more active. He planned to climb all the remaining peaks during 1983.

The disappearing snows of Kilimanjaro.

Bass and his company climbed Kilimanjaro on September 1, 1983. Physically, it was a decent amount of work, but the route did not pose any technical difficulty or danger.

Climbing Kilimanjaro (5895m) along the usual route is not really mountaineering. This is more of an exotic trip. The peak, crowned with a white cap, rises above the expanses of savannah, through which herds of antelope roam and families of lions watch over them. Additional charm is given to it by Hemmingway's immortal story and the snow that you see in Equatorial Africa. In general, this is rather a reason for philosophical reflection.

Kilimanjaro is an extinct volcano even more pronounced than Elbrus. Its main distinguishing feature is a huge crater, filled with ice around the edges. This glacier is dying, and its area is catastrophically decreasing. According to scientists, by 2015 it will be gone.

There are several easy trails leading to the summit. The most popular and shortest is Marangu. Nine out of ten climbers climb here. Only huts have been built on it, and all overnight stays take place in relatively comfortable conditions. Maranga is also called the “Coca-Cola” route, because you can actually buy soft drinks on it. The routes Machame, Lemosho, Rongai, etc. also do not present any technical difficulties, being accessible to any physically healthy person. Difficult routes can only be found on the western slopes.

Climbing to the highest point in Africa has long been a business. With a pronounced African specificity. The mountain is located on the territory national park, this provides legal grounds for collecting money from climbers. All natives involved in service consider tipping to be completely legal. Still, the total cost of such a trip does not seem large. If, of course, you compare it with Everest.

After climbing in Africa, two weeks later they climbed Elbrus (Bass for the second time, and Wells for the first time). The hospitality and precision of the work of the Soviet climbers again made a great impression on them. The head of the MAL, Mikhail Monastyrsky, announced on the day of his arrival after the feast that Frank Wells, as an old friend, would be served free of charge during his second attempt. Well, where else was this possible? The guests could not guess that for the amount paid by one participant, ours could serve five people!

Pat Morrow at this time carried out an even more global maneuver: in July he climbed Elbrus, then in August he climbed Kilimanjaro and in September he reached the highest point in Australia - Mount Kosciuszko. He already had six of the Seven Summits to his credit, and in the fall he called Frank Wells with a request to include him in the expedition to Vinson. The opponents' conversation was correct.

Do you have 200 thousand dollars?
- No.
- This is the first thing you need.

Frank honestly told all aspects of their two-year struggle to organize an expedition to the highest point of Antarctica. But he did not invite a competitor to participate in it.

Vinson. Invasion of the ice continent.

Antarctica is a very special continent. There are no boundaries, and all management essentially belongs to the scientists. There were no athletes or even just tourists there until the 1980s, and no one was officially going to allow them there. The cost of the program was also an important limiting factor. Therefore, even such proactive people as Wells and Bass took almost two years to organize an expedition to the highest point of Antarctica.

It turned out, among other things, that there are only two planes in the world that can fly to the required point, land and rise on an untreated patch of ice. And only 2 pilots in the world are capable of taking on such a flight. In addition, a number of other points must coincide, and still the success of the expedition is not guaranteed.

The budget of the expedition amounted to almost a million dollars, a sum that was difficult for even Bass and Wells to pay. It’s good that they were joined by a famous skier and climber who managed to collect a couple of hundred thousand dollars in Japan, which was then prosperous. In addition to them, the famous English climber played a significant role in the expedition.

By and large, this peak was key to solving the “Seven Summits” problem.

The complexity of organizing this expedition simply did not allow anyone to put such an issue on the agenda before. Vinson was discovered by American researchers in the 1950s during an airplane flyover of the Ellsworth Mountains. The measured height surprised them, they checked it again and confirmed that the highest point of the continent is 4879 m!

They named it after the American congressman who actively lobbied for funding for the scientific study of Antarctica. The first ascent required the organization of a special expedition of the American Mountaineering Club, which did not do without the help of the government.
The ascent was led by Nicholas Clinch, the highest point was reached by a group of 10 climbers on December 17, 1966. The second group, consisting of scientists, climbed to the top in 1979. One of the three climbers was our compatriot Vladimir Samsonov.

This actually reflected our role in the development of the continent. The route to Vinson is not technically difficult. In addition, mostly well-trained climbers come here and it is not surprising that most of them reach the highest point. More than 500 people have already done this, and approximately 95% of participants reach the top.

Vinson is the only mountain in the world whose climbing is monopolized by one company. The Canadian-English “Adventure Network” was formed precisely during the epic of the first conquest of the “Seven Summits”. One of its founders was the same pilot Giles Kershaw, a participant in the Dick Bass epic.
The cost of a trip according to an established scheme is now about $30,000. A Russian IL-76 plane from the mainland delivers to the Patriot Hills intermediate camp, and then on board small plane climbers reach the base camp at an altitude of 2134 m.
During the acclimatization process, 3 more intermediate camps are established. From the camp at 3700 m, climbers go to the summit.

The flight to the Vinson area was itself a risky climb. A private DC-3 aircraft, manufactured in 1944, was chartered. The flight took place first from Canada through California to southern Chile, then to the Antarctic base and to the summit area. When landing, ice flying ace Giles Kershaw only skied on the surface of the glacier and took to the skies again. It was reconnaissance.
On the second approach, he landed successfully, having bounced around the sastrugi quite a bit. The team began the climb with enthusiasm. It seemed that there were no significant obstacles. However, the first attempt was disrupted due to strong winds. Only Bonington reached the summit.
On the second attempt, on November 30, 1983, Bass and Rick Ridgway succeeded in the ascent, followed by the others, including Wells. At the same time, Miura successfully skied almost from the very top to the base camp.

Morrow's failure and Bass's feat.

During 1983 and 1984, Bass attempted to summit Everest twice using the classic route from the south. Both times failed. At this time, Pat Morrow managed to raise funds and fellow travelers to organize an expedition to Vinson in the southern summer of 1984-1985. The same DC-3 aircraft and the same irreplaceable Kershaw. However, this time fortune turned away from the climbers. During their first attempt, they were caught in a severe storm that damaged the plane's wings. We returned to Argentina for repairs. But the second attempt also ended in failure: this time the engine was damaged.

At this time, Bass was making desperate efforts to become part of his fourth expedition to Everest. This time I had to deal first with a cold-blooded descendant of the Vikings, then with no less cold-blooded Nepalese bureaucrats.

Arne Naess, who organized the expedition, was also an oil industrialist. He resisted for more than two months and, in the end, gave Bass an unthinkable ordinary person amount - $75,000 only for the right to participate. The problems were not exhausted here - the Nepalese authorities decided to prohibit representatives from participating in the expedition different countries. Bass's partner, the famous cameraman and mountaineer David Breashears, rose to become the country's prime minister.

And Bass was given personal permission, in violation of the rules. The Americans were late for the start of the expedition and only arrived in Kathmandu on March 29. Thanks to good weather, support and constant assistance from David, who was in excellent shape, the climb went well.

Although it took away all the strength Dick Bass had. On April 30, 1985, he stood on the top of the Earth, thereby completing his heroic epic called “The Seven Summits.” True, there was still a descent, during which the artificial oxygen ran out, and a desperate struggle for life began and, at times, it seemed that it was easier to give up.

But there was enough strength. After some time, a gala banquet for 400 people took place in Snowbird in the premises of a mountain restaurant...

Australia. Kosciuszko or Carstens?

Dick Bass, together with Wells, “made” Kosciuszko in December 1983, immediately after returning from Vinson. Pat Morrow successfully completed the epic with Vinson on November 19, 1985.

However, the role of the second conqueror of the “Seven Summits” did not suit him. The Canadian decided to listen to another point of view, which is dominant today. It was actively promoted by , which at that time also became a contender for becoming the first in the Seven Summits race.

Although, by and large, international law does not regulate which peaks are included in the seven. The fact is that continents or continents, unlike countries, do not have clear boundaries. Some geographers include only areas of land surrounded by oceans. Others included the so-called continental shelf with the islands located on it. From the second point of view, the highest point of Australia is located in the Irian Jaya Mountains of the island of New Guinea and reaches an altitude of 4885 m. Pat Morrow climbed this peak on August 5, 1986.

In fact, reference books, and the most important of them, equated to legislative documents, the Encyclopedia Britannica, call Mount Kosciuszko (or in Polish Kosciuszko, and in local - Kozyuko) the highest point of Australia. The 2228 m peak rises only slightly in the range of mountains of the Main Range of the Australian Alps. The name was invented by a researcher of the area, a Pole by origin.

He gave it in honor of the national hero, who at one time fought for the independence of the United States, then for the independence of Poland, and who at the end of his life was friends with the Russian-Polish Tsar Alexander I. Climbing Kosciuszko Peak cannot be classified as a mountaineering feat, as a “challenge”. The road goes almost to the very top.

The Carstens Pyramid, the name given to the highest mountain of New Guinea in honor of the discoverer of the island, a Dutch sea captain of the 17th century, is a limestone massif, to the top of which there is a rocky route of approximately 2-3 category of difficulty. But the hardest part is getting to the route itself. We can say that the business technology here is less well-established than at the other tops of the seven.

The western part of New Guinea politically belongs to Indonesia, whose authorities, with an insane amount of their own problems, pay little attention to it. So the first obstacle is bureaucratic - they may not let you in. The second is the absolute wildness of this island located in the equatorial zone. Here you can get sick from getting wet in the constant rain, from eating the wrong thing, or from being bitten by someone unknown. At the foot of the mountain there is a large copper ore quarry. There is a road to it, but recently the management of the mine, running a morally dubious business, has prohibited tourists from using their infrastructure.

The first climber of Carstens is considered to be the famous Austrian climber and traveler Heinrich Harrer (the one who spent 7 years in Tibet). This happened in 1962. For a long time, this remote region did not attract much attention. But since the rivalry between Bass and Morrow, there has been a steady demand for this top. Gradually a proposal emerged.

The coronation continues. The popularity of the Seven Summits program is growing.

34-year-old American Eric Weihenmeyer climbed to the top of Carstens in September 2002. He is the only one who has not seen a single peak that he has climbed.
The fact is that Eric is blind. As he himself states, you don’t have to see mountains, you can feel them differently.

Eric is number 101 on the list of conquerors, including both Australian options: Carstens and Kosciuszko. Since then, the list has been replenished with many, many names.
Now there are already 140 of them.

The first woman was Japanese. This amazing woman collected this moment the largest collection of the highest peaks of individual countries.

This year, new record holders appeared: the youngest is 20-year-old Englishman Reece Miles, the fastest is Indian Mali.

Bass's dream of climbing the Seven Summits was first realized in a year by a New Zealand high-mountain guide

The Seven Summits are the most high mountains all continents, with Europe and Asia having different peaks. Each of them attracts many people every year. There is an informal association of climbers who have climbed these mountains - the Seven Summits Club.

1. Everest (Qomolungma) - Asia

Chomolungma

In Tibetan it is pronounced "Chomolangma" - which means "Divine Mother of the Earth". In Nepali it is “Sagarmatha”. Chomolungma is the peak of the world. Its height is 8848 meters. It was first conquered in 1953 by New Zealander Edmund Hillary, and in 2008, on May 8, the Olympic flame was delivered to it.

Chomolungma is part of the Himalayas. It is located in the border region between Nepal and the Tibet Autonomous Region of China. Its main massif is located in Nepal, and the World Peak itself is in China. In the entire history of climbing Everest, about 3,000 ascents have been made. This is not just the highest peak in the world - it is a hypnotic place that attracts climbers of all categories and ages.

Many amateur climbers pay big money to professional guides for the opportunity to successfully climb Everest. But this mountain is not the most technically difficult to climb, if you choose standard routes. Other eight-thousand-meter mountains, such as Chogori and Nanga Parbat, are much more difficult. Here, the conquerors are given tasks of a different kind: overcoming mountain sickness, fighting weather conditions and the duration of the ascent.

So, the winds at the top reach 200 kilometers per hour, the temperature drops to -60 degrees, and the ascent lasts 2 months. A very difficult task even for experienced climbers. That is why more than two hundred people have already died while trying to climb Chomolungma.

Nowadays, several thousand ascents are made annually to Chomolungma. Which brings a lot of financial investment to Nepal, because in order to get permission to climb, the group must pay 25 thousand dollars per person!

Until 1856, Chomolungma remained in obscurity. On the maps it was marked as Peak XV. The mountain received its status as the top of the world thanks to Andrew Waugh, the head of the geodetic service in India, who recognized it as the highest mountain of the entire Earth after a trigonometric survey by Radhanath Sikdar.

The English name Everest was given in honor of Andrew Waugh's predecessor as head of the geodetic survey, George Everest. By the way, George Everest himself strongly opposed this.

Everest also got its name because at the time the mountain was determined as the highest point in the world, the native Nepalese name Chomolungma was not known, because Nepal was then a country closed to visits by foreigners. At the moment, China is trying to return the local name to the peak.

2. Mont Blanc (translated from Italian " white mountain") - Europe

The Mont Blanc mountain range is located on the border of France and Italy. It is 50 kilometers long and 12 to 15 kilometers wide. The path to the Mont Blanc Summit begins from the Chamonix Valley, a famous French ski resort.

The approaches to the massif are limited by three slopes. The French slope is a mountain range of impressive size. This real paradise for climbers, which contains a wide variety of peaks. Italian slopes are walls of rocks. On the Swiss side there are mountain ranges smaller, but nevertheless very harmonious and attractive. Mont Blanc is the highest point of the Alps. It is located in their western part and has a height of 4810 meters.

The history of mountaineering in the Alps as a completely new species active rest, began in 1741, when two brave Englishmen climbed Mount Montenvers. Since then, the glory of the first conquerors of the hitherto inaccessible Alps belongs to Richard Pocock and Wyndham.

But the summit of Mont Blanc itself was conquered only on August 8, 1786 by two Swiss and natives of Chamonix, Jacques Belma and Michel-Gabriel Paccard. They became the first people to explore the path to the top of Mont Blanc. They reached a considerable height of 4807 meters. In 1787, heavy research equipment was lifted to Mont Blanc by the French naturalist Saussure. Since then, Mont Blanc has been officially accepted as the highest point not only of the Alps, but of all of Europe.

Mont Blanc was also conquered by the fair sex in 1808, Marie Paradis and Countess Henriette d'Angeville. Subsequently, many brave women followed in their footsteps.

3. Aconcagua - South America

The summit of Aconcagua is the tallest extinct volcano in the world. Aconcagua is located in Argentina and is part of the Andes. Its height is 6962 meters, it is the highest mountain on the entire American continent, in all of South America. The decoding of the name is not known for certain. According to one opinion, the name is translated from the Araucanian language - “from the other side of the Aconcagua River.” According to another opinion, it is deciphered from the Quechua language as “Stone Guardian”.

Aconcagua appeared as a result of the collision of two lithospheric plates: the South American plate and the Nazca plate. It is located in the heart of the Andes in the Aconcagua National Park, it is covered by numerous glaciers, the largest of which are the northeastern (Polish) and eastern. Aconcagua is bounded by two mountain ranges - Valle de las Vacas - on the north and east sides, Valle de los Horcones Inferior, on the west and south.

The route to climb Aconcagua is not so difficult from the technical side if you go through it from the north. Although the altitude has a significant effect. After all, at the top the atmospheric pressure varies greatly and is only forty percent of the pressure at sea level. You can climb to the top quite quickly, in 5 hours and 45 minutes (according to data dated 1991).

Another route to climb Aconcagua runs through the Polish Glacier. Approaches to the mountain are made through the Vacas valley, followed by an ascent to the base of the Polish Glacier and an intersection with the first trail to further conquer the peak.

The first ascent of Aconcagua was made on January 14, 1897 by members of the expedition group of the Englishman Edward Fitzgerald, Matisse Zurbriggen. And after several days, and other members of the expedition.

Today, in order to climb Aconcagua, climbers must purchase a climbing pass from the local authorities of the Aconcagua National Park.

4. McKinley - North America

McKinley

McKinley is the largest double-headed mountain on the North American continent; its height is 6194 meters, and McKinley is also the third highest mountain in the world (relative height 6138 meters). It is located in Alaska and is part of national park Denali. The peak was named McKinley in honor of the twenty-fifth President of America, William McKinley. The local name of the peak, common among the Athabasca Indians, is “Denali”, which means “Great”.

The first mention of the mountain dates back to 1839. This year, the Russian navigator, as well as military and statesman Fyodor Petrovich Wrangel, marked it on the map. And the first European explorer of the peak was also the Russian naval officer and explorer Lavrentiy Alekseevich Zagoskin. And for the first time the peak was seen from both sides.

McKinley

It is no coincidence that McKinley's first explorers were Russian. Indeed, for more than half a century, from 1799 to 1867, until Alaska was sold to the United States, McKinley belonged to the Russian Empire and was called quite simply - Big Mountain.

McKinley is one of the most difficult mountains to climb. Its slopes are very steep, the air at the top is very rarefied, due to the high latitude of the mountain. In addition, the severe frosts of Alaska create great difficulties for climbing. For example, at an altitude of 5300 meters, meteorological stations there recorded temperatures of -83 degrees Celsius.

McKinley has two peaks. The southern peak is higher than the northern one, which is why it is more often visited by climbers. As a rule, one climbs to the northern peak if the entire ascent route was laid along the northern side.

Attempts to conquer McKinley began in 1903. But they were unsuccessful. The first successful ascent of McKinley was made in 1913 by an expedition led by Hudson Stack. Moreover, the first to climb the mountain was not Hudson Stack himself, but expedition member and Alaska native Walter Harper.

5. Kilimanjaro - Africa

Kilimanjaro

Kilimanjaro is Amazing place! It is surprising because just 320 kilometers from the equator, on the top of Kilimanjaro, there are imperishable snows. It is the highest mountain on the entire African continent and active volcano. It is located in Tanzania near the Kenyan border. Translated from the Sukhali language, its name means “mountain that glitters.” And this is not easy, because the climate in the upper part of the mountain is like a harsh Siberian winter with white snowy silence.

Kilimanjaro stands proudly in the middle of the plains. There are no mountain ranges around it that can distract attention. The dimensions of the base of the mountain are impressive - 100 kilometers long and 75 kilometers wide. Kilimanjaro owes its appearance to active volcanic activity, which took place here and formed its slopes for two million years. Thus, the mountain has three peaks formed in different periods. The highest of them is Kibo, located between the other two. To the east and west of it are Mawenzi and Shira.

Top of Kilimanjaro

Shira is the oldest of the three peaks. It was formed due to early eruptions, and is a plateau raised 3778 meters above sea level.

The next highest and oldest peak is Mawenzi. It rises to 5353 meters and is a ridge connected to the youngest and highest peak of Kibo. But an inexperienced eye does not distinguish the Mawenzi mountain range, but mistakes it for a huge boulder leaning against the snow-covered Kibo.

Kibo is the only one of the three peaks located beyond the snow line. She is the youngest and tallest. The shape of the top is like a dome. In the center of the dome lies a crater with a diameter of 2500 meters and a depth of 299 meters. Inside the crater there is another, smaller one, from which volcanic gases come out. The glacier covering Kibo is the largest on the entire continent. It descends slopes to an altitude of 4500 meters above sea level.

Kilimanjaro

Due to its location and altitude, Kilimanjaro includes everything climatic zones. Its lower tiers are an excellent place for growing crops. Above 2000 meters begin rainforests with an abundance of birds and small animals that found shelter in the dense bushes. Above 3500 meters the landscape characteristic of heathland begins. And as you approach the snow line, it’s as if you’re transported to the Alps! Reminds you that you are still in Africa, the only large animals that are often encountered are buffaloes and leopards.

Kilimanjaro is considered for a reason mysterious mountain. Every year it attracts the attention of a large number of tourists and even world-famous personalities. Ernst Hemingway, having visited its slopes in 1938, captured what he saw in the story “The Snows of Kilimanjaro”.

6. Vinson - Antarctica

The Vinson Mountains are located in Antarctica. This is the highest part of the continent. The massif is located just 1,200 kilometers from the South Pole and belongs to the Ellsworth Mountains. The length and width of the Vinson massif are 21 and 13 meters.

The Vinson massif was discovered more recently than others. It was noticed by American pilots flying over Antarctica in 1957. The highest point of the entire massif and the entire continent was Mount Vinson, 4892 meters high.

Vinson Massif

The name of the peak was given in honor of the famous political figure of the United States of America, Carl Vinson.

7. Kosciusko - Australia

Kosciuszko is the highest mountain on the Australian continent, its height is 2228 meters. It is located in the Kosciuszko National Park of the same name in the state of New South Wales, near the border with the state of Victoria. The mountain is part of the watershed ridge located in the east of the continent. Thanks to the glaciers that passed here about 20,000 years ago, during the Pleistocene period, the mountain acquired a characteristic glacial topography with amphitheaters and madders.

Kosciuszko

Kosciuszko Peak is the main asset of the national park, opened in 1977. A large number of rare endemic plants and animals are concentrated on the slopes of the mountain. In addition, the foot of the mountain and the surrounding areas are the coldest in Australia. There is snow on Kosciuszko for five months, starting from June and ending in October. Kosciuszko is the only place for ski holiday in Australia.

Kosciuszko

Kosciuszko is considered the easiest to climb of the seven highest peaks on the continents. If desired, the ascent to such a low peak can be made easier by climbing cable car from the center of the village of Thredbo to the station located at a level of 1930 meters. After which there is only a short distance to go. Today, there are different opinions among climbers about whether Kosciuszko belongs to the seven highest peaks. Some believe that it would be more correct to include Mount Puncak Jaya located on the island of New Guinea, but this is still just speculation.

According to data, this particular shield volcano, located on Hawaiian Islands is the highest if you consider the height from the very base of the mountain.

As you know, with its height of 10203 meters it is 1355 meters higher than Chomolungma. If you decide to visit this gigantic elevation, you will notice that most of the mountain is hidden under water, and rises only 4205 meters above sea level.

Mauna Kea has existed on earth for about a million years. According to experts, 500,000 years ago was the last period of activity of the volcano, last eruption fell approximately 4-5 thousand years ago, so it is considered inactive and there is no reason for concern.

It is believed that the top of the volcano mountain has all the best qualities intended for astronomical observation: humid air, temperature, number of sunny days per year, environmental conditions, etc. As you know, a number of powerful telescopes are already operating at its summit, and in 214, construction began on the largest telescope in the world.

The highest mountains in the world from all continents. Description of the seven highest peaks by frequency.

As you know, there is a project that includes a list of the highest peaks of the world around the world and it is called “Seven Summits”. This seven includes the mountains of North and South America, as well as Asia and Europe. Climbers who have conquered all seven peaks automatically become honorary members of the “Seven Peaks” club.

I consider it necessary to provide a list of mountains that are included in the list of “seven peaks”:

Chomolungma (Asia);
Aconcagua (South America);
McKinley (North America);
Kilimanjaro (Africa);
Elbrus or Mont Blanc (Europe);
Vinson Massif (Antarctica);
Kosciuszko (Australia) or Cartens Pyramid (Puncak Jaya) (Australia and Oceania).

Chomolungma (Everest) as the highest peak in Asia

Geographically, she laid out her southern mountain ranges(8760 m.) on the border of Nepal and Tibet autonomous region China, and the northern ones (the main ones, 8848 m.) - on the territory of China itself. The peak itself belongs to the Himalaya mountain system and the Mahalangur-Himal ridge. Its coordinates are 27.59`17` north latitude. 86.55`31` E

An interesting fact is that we would not have known about this mountain as the highest in the world if in 1852, a certain mathematician and topographer Radhanat Sidkar, while in India, was 240 km away. from India, did not determine this by trigonometric calculations.

The tallest Asian beauty has the shape of a triangular pyramid. The southern skrod is distinguished by its geometric steepness and exposure, so it does not hold snow and firn. As you know, many glaciers descend from the peak, ending their existence at an altitude of 5000 m.

According to facts, the first people to climb the highest peak were Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Eumond Hillary, they climbed on May 29, 1953 through the South Col.

There is no need to hide the fact that the mountain is not very welcoming to guests. Its climate is very harsh, wind speed reaches 55 m/sec, temperatures in some places drop to -60 degrees Celsius. According to statistics, every twentieth climber remains forever on the slopes of harsh peaks, even without help modern equipment and equipment, as a result of which 200 climbers from 1953 to 2014 left their lives without conquering the highest peak.

Aconcagua is the second of the “Seven Summits” and the highest peak in the western and southern hemispheres of the Earth.

As you know, in Argentina, in the central part of the Andes, the highest mountain in South America is located - Aconcagua. According to the data, this peak was formed by the convergence of two lithospheric plates, Nazca and South American, and is 6962 m in absolute height. It also has a large number of glaciers, the largest being the northeastern (Polish) and eastern ones.

Coordinates: 32.39` S 70.00` west

Compared to Chomolungma, climbing to this peak will not be difficult if you do it from the northern slope. But despite this, it will be more difficult to conquer from the south or southwest. As you know, the British were the first to climb Mount Aconcagu in 1898 with the expedition of Edward Fitzgerald.

The third of the “Seven Summits” is the highest mountain in North America – McKinley

Coordinates – 63.04`10` north latitude. 151.00`26` west

This natural wonder is located in the center of Denali National Park in Alaska. As history goes, until 1867, that is, until Alaska was sold to the United States, it was considered the most high mountain Russian Empire. The first person to see it from both sides is considered to be Lavrenty Alekseevich Zagoskin, the leader of the Russian expedition.

On March 17, 1913, American climbers under the command of Hudson Stack are considered the first people to conquer this peak.

According to stories, the indigenous people, the Athabascan Indians, used to call this mountain Denali, which means “great.” It was also called “ Big mountain” while belonging to the Russian Empire. It received its final name in 1896 in honor of the 25th American president.

The highest mountain in Africa and the fourth of the “seven” is Kilimanjaro.

Geographic coordinates: 3.04`00` S, 37.21`33` E.

This mountain is potentially active volcano in northeastern Tanzania. Its backbone consists of three extinct volcano: Shira is located in the west with an altitude of 3,962 m above sea level, Kibo in the center with an altitude of 5,891.8 m, and in the east Mawenzi with an altitude of 5,149 m.

Speaking about the appearance of the mountain, its peaks are covered with an ice cap. Unfortunately, this glacier is actively melting and is barely noticeable in height as in the old days, and experts predict its complete disappearance by 2020. This active melting may be due to the cutting down of nearby forests and a decrease in precipitation.

As evidenced by the facts, in 1889 the first ascent of this peak was made by Hans Meier. It is important to say that conquering this mountain is not considered technically difficult. since it is located close to the equator and is at the intersection point of all types of altitudinal zones.

The highest peak in Russia and Europe - Elbrus

Geographic coordinates: 43.20`45` N, 42.26`55` E.

Due to the ambiguity of the border between Asia and Europe, there is currently debate about the location of this mountain in Europe. If the answer is positive, this mountain can be considered the highest point in Europe; if not, then Mont Blanc can claim this peak.

About the location: as you know, Elbrus is located on the border of the republics of Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachevo-Cherkessia, in the Caucasus.

Externally, it looks like a swell-shaped volcanic cone, with a height of 5642 m in the west and 5621 m in the east. According to data, in the 50s. before. AD the last eruption was observed.

The hills of this mountain are covered with glaciers measuring 134.5 sq. km, the largest of which are Big and Small Azau, Terskop.

From the point of view of climbers, the climb is not difficult, but there are particularly difficult routes. The first conquest was accomplished during the expedition of General G.A. Emanuel, head of the Caucasian fortified line in 1929.

The highest mountain in Antarctica and the sixth of the “seven” – Vinson Massif

Geographic coordinates: 78.31`31` S, 85.37`01` W

The mountain is part of the Ellsworth Mountains and is geographically located 1200 km away. from the South Pole. Its scale is 21 m long and 13 km. in width. It is Vinson Peak that is highest point array.

It was discovered by American pilots in 1957, and on December 18, 1966, the sunrise was recorded by Nicholas Clinch.

The fifth of seven and the first Mont Blanc mountain in Europe

Geographic coordinates: 45.49`58` N, 6.51`53` E.

This beauty is located on the border of France and Italy and belongs to the Alps mountain system. Its length is 50 km. it is part of the Mont Blanc crystalline massif. The mountain has a large and majestic cover with a length of 200 km. The Mer de Glace is the largest glacier.

Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard were the first to conquer the massif on August 8, 1786. Also interesting fact is also that in 1886, during his honeymoon This mountain was conquered by Theodore Roosevelt.

The seventh of the “Seven” and the first in mainland Australia is Mount Kosciuszko

Geographic coordinates: 36.27` S 148.16` E

This massif was discovered in 1840 and is located on the territory of the national park of the same name, in the Australian Alps in the south of New South Wales.

As you know, the name of the mountain in honor of the military and political figure Tadeusz Kosciuszko was given by the Polish traveler, geographer and geologist Pavel Edmund Strzelecki. It was he who carried out the first conquest of this mountain in 1840.

The highest in Australia and Oceania and the seventh of seven is the Carstens Pyramid (Puncak Jaya)

Geographic coordinates: 4.05` S, 137.11` E

It is impossible to miss the fact that there is currently disagreement over which array should cover the list of “seven” vertices. If the Austrian continent is taken into account, Kosciuszko Peak will be considered, and if all of Australia and Oceania are taken into account, the Carstens Pyramid with a height of 4884 meters will undoubtedly be the highest. For this reason, two versions of the “seven peaks” were created, including two options. But the main one is still considered to be the Carstens Pyramid.

The peak is part of the Maoke massif and is located in the western part of the island of New Guinea.

The mountain is named after the Dutch explorer Jan Carstens, who discovered it in 1623. Its hills were first conquered by a group of four Austrian climbers led by Heinrich Harrer in 1962.

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