The best grilled mackerel in pita bread from the creator of Balik Ekmek. Super Mario - Türkiye, Istanbul

Liked everything. Rita is just great. He talks very easily, without being boring, and answers questions right away. Sociable, with humor. The walk lasted two hours longer than stated. Rita, thank you very much.

The excursion is simply magical. The weather was not good at first, but the mood in anticipation of meeting the city was excellent. Rita met all our expectations. A lot of interesting information, getting to know those places in Istanbul that you definitely wouldn’t have found on your own. Treated me local dishes, which we ourselves would never even think of buying. She gave a lot of information and advice, which we have already used and will continue to use, since we are still in this amazing city. Rita is easy-going, relaxed, very friendly and attentive, erudite and excellent at presenting the material. It was interesting, easy, cozy for us. Thank you for the walk, for the excursion, for the tea, gastronomic surprises! We are waiting in Moscow!

Thanks to Rita for the tour.
This walk left a pleasant aftertaste!
We took this excursion on the second day. And on the third and fourth days we constantly remembered Rita and the facts that she told us. And they saw parrots in the Topkani Palace and ended up in free museum"Tanks of Feodosia". And they even surprised today’s guide with their knowledge of some issues.
And there are still a few days ahead, and we will certainly be able to use Rita’s other advice.
Well, first things first.
I take the description of the excursion and confirm it line by line.
Istanbul residents plunged into everyday life. We climbed onto the roof and saw the city. We explored the labyrinths of streets built by the Ottomans and Italians, and saw alleys that preserve the stories of Russian emigration. We rode the ferry. Moreover, Rita suggested how to use the signs. We saw a bunch of shops on the Asian side. We plan to return for jeans. And they returned for sweets immediately after the end of the excursion.
We learned about the life of the city, about the culture and traditions of Istanbul, about the architectural eclecticism of residential areas, about the life, education, work, weddings and cuisine of the townspeople, about the difference between the residents of the European and Asian parts.
And even, as stated in the name of the excursion, we got lost as soon as the guide left us)))
But this was interesting to us. We appreciated that Rita really took us through the most colorful and confusing streets. If we had not walked through them with her, we would never have gotten out. And we got out!
We are happy with the excursion! Well done Rita!
A little about her: Punctual. Doesn't rush, but keeps track of time. Attentive. I am ready to quickly answer any questions before and after the meeting. Knows a lot about the topic of the excursion. She is very comfortable. Is not boring. Can support a joke. Recommends delicious food. We put marks on the map and move strictly along them. Almost)))

Many thanks to Rita for the tour.
Very beautiful, interesting, educational, exciting, informative, tasty.
She answered a million of our questions, showed us not only the sights, but also shops, restaurants, and pastry shops that suited our tastes, talked about the life of Turks of different generations, and directed us along several necessary routes.
Overall, it was great, we recommend it!

Friends, if you are going to Istanbul, I definitely recommend this excursion “Istanbul without a blanket or how to get lost in the city,” especially at the beginning of your vacation. Rita knows the city very well and loves her profession, see the European and Asian parts, she is responsive, will advise what to see and how to get there, and will make marks on the map. The city will be like the palm of your hand. After the excursion, we really didn’t want to part with her and instead of 3.5 hours, we walked for 5.
Rita, thank you.
R.S/ Galina, Tatyana, Alexander

Many thanks to Rita for an unusual walk around the city! It was my first time in Istanbul, and it was incredibly interesting to go not to the standard tourist places, but to explore the city from the inside. Rita took us through streets and places that we would never have found on our own. We went to a cafe, climbed to the roofs, fed seagulls, tried Turkish delicacies while listening to stories about the history of the city, traditions and life of the inhabitants. I wholeheartedly recommend Rita as a tour guide in Istanbul! :smiling_face_with_smiling_eyes:

A wonderful walk around Istanbul with Rita - rich, bright, informative, non-standard and memorable! Rita, thank you very much for the positive emotions, a lot useful information and additional links!

I really enjoyed the excursion. The guide Rita is beyond praise. Unusual places, streets, nooks and crannies. The Karakoy and Kadikoy districts, tasting at the Asian market and all this with interesting comments. Everything is easy and not stressful. And real help, and advice on where else to go and how to do it. As well as answers to any questions and good language and erudition.

A tour with Rita is a wonderful walk both for those who are in Istanbul for the first time and for those who are already familiar with the city. The route passes through tourist places, without crowds of people. You really feel the rhythm of the city. At the end you are immersed in the crowd of the market, but this is also the life of the city - which makes you feel the spirit of the Asian side of Istanbul.
I recommend both Rita and this particular excursion to everyone!
THANK YOU!

I recommend Rita and her tour to everyone!
It was incredibly interesting to plunge into the history of Istanbul and the life of Istanbul residents. The excursion was a breeze and we didn’t notice how 4 hours had passed!
Rita taught us how to navigate the city, suggested what else interesting to see, where to eat deliciously and where/what to buy something delicious)))
I DEFINITELY recommend!!! Rita, thank you: smiling_face_with_smiling_eyes:

I am writing a review after some time. Our excursion took place on January 27. Rita is wonderful! Good girl! A lot of good words it is said about the walk itself in other reviews, everything is so, we confirm. We walked, tasted, photographed, listened, all for fun, without stress. She helped a lot when planning the trip, because... I bombarded her with questions long before the trip began. She always answered quickly and clearly. In Istanbul, throughout our vacation, we felt her support, she always found time to answer our questions. Rita, thank you! We wish you curious tourists, as well as finding new corners in Istanbul and creating new topics for excursions.

Eminonu Square in Istanbul

The territory of Istanbul's Eminonu district is framed by two straits: on the northern side - the Golden Horn, on the eastern side - the Bosphorus. This space can, without exaggeration, be called the historical center of Istanbul. Therefore, it should not be surprising that this part of the city is so lively.

During the reign of the Ottoman dynasty, this territory housed a port and a zone customs control, therefore the area was of paramount importance for settlement, despite the relatively small area in 5 sq. km. Today, Emenenu is valued most from a historical point of view. According to official documentation, the number of inhabitants of this territory at the beginning of the 21st century was only 55,000 people. And this is surprisingly small, considering that the total population of Istanbul by that time had exceeded 10 million.

Eminönü North is of great importance as a vast transport node Istanbul. Hundreds of buses, trains, high-speed trams and ferries run daily from this point in the city in various directions.

It is impossible not to note the commercial significance of the area: it is on its square that the world-famous Egyptian Market (Mısır Çarşısı) is located, as well as a myriad of shops, shopping pavilions, benches, etc. This is where they open their doors. luxury hotels providing excellent service to tourists. You can not only find accommodation there for the night, but also spend time in a beautiful, romantic setting. A hearty Turkish breakfast on cozy terraces with stunning views of the Bosphorus and Halic will leave no one indifferent. Of course, Eminonu is a favorite place for city guests, while the number of indigenous residents is steadily declining due to the prohibitively high rent in this part of the metropolis.

How to get to Eminonu

The fastest way to get here is by high-speed tram; you need to get to the Sultanahmet stop.

If you want to get to Eminonu from, then take the Havalimanı metro, then change to the tram at Zeytinburnu or Aksaray and go to the Sultanahmet stop.

New mosque in Eminonu (Yeni Camii)

New mosque in Eminonu

The new mosque is an elegant and sophisticated example of traditional Ottoman architecture. This is one of the most visited and interesting sights of the city for tourists, a unique symbol of it. The construction of the mosque was initiated by Safiye Valide Sultan back in 1597. This beautiful and strong woman is known for the fact that for about 2 decades she was the only wife of Sultan Murad the Third (Padişahı III. Murat) and had enormous power over him. Her feminine charms turned out to be just as effective in relation to her eldest son, Mehmed the Third (Sultan III. Mehmet), who came to power after the death of his father. The ambitious Albanian woman wanted to realize her power through the construction of a religious complex.

The location for the construction was selected very carefully. The famous architect Davud Ağa was searching for it. When a suitable space, in his opinion, was found, it turned out that just a block from the chosen territory lived a community of Karaite Jews, who were later very quickly resettled to the opposite coast of the Golden Horn.

The common people adored Valide Sultan, but theologians and lawyers constantly protested against her, realizing the unlimited power of a woman over the ruler of the state. The riots were unsuccessful. Safiye held all power firmly in her hands until the moment when her son passed away into another world. After this, the throne passed to the next heir - Sultan Ahmed the First. The headstrong young man did not want to see his grandmother next to him and sent her to Old Palace(Eski Sarayı) in 1603, where she lived the last 15 years of her life. By this time, Safiye had not yet completed the construction of the mosque, and under the influence of time, the building began to gradually collapse. But his story did not end there. Half a century later, another Valide Sultan, the mother of Mehmed the Fourth, drew attention to the mosque. It was with her light hand that the mosque began to be completed and improved.

New Mosque (Yeni Valide Sultan Camii)

There are several interesting historical facts about the construction process of the New Mosque in Istanbul.

The first architect, Davud Agha, unfortunately, passed away very quickly, almost immediately after the start of construction. Another talented architect, Dalgıç Ahmet Ağa, decided to take on the project. The place chosen for the construction is located very close to the sea coast, so the pit was heavily flooded. The builders found a solution that helped save the landmark. They bound the foundation with cement mortar, secured the huge stones with iron clamps, and filled the inside of the foundation with molten lead. After these manipulations, the mosque became so invulnerable that many earthquakes could not break it.

By the end of the 16th century, the shrine was completed only to the level of the first windows, but construction was stopped again. It resumed only 60 years later, already under the control of another Ottoman woman - Turhan Sultan (Turhan Hatice Sultan) and with the participation of another architect - Mustafa aga Hassan. This talented architect presented a magnificent project that included not only the mosque itself, but also a complex of buildings attached to it - a hospital, a religious school, a mausoleum, etc. Through his efforts, a pair of luxurious marble fountains were erected, and the territory of a huge market, later known as the Egyptian Bazaar, was landscaped. The official name of the complex, which was given to it over time, is Yeni Valide Sultan Camii.

The ceremony of consecrating the mosque took place at the end of 1663. This significant event was honored by the Padishah Mehmed the Fourth himself, who was present at the ceremony with his entire court. The memory of Valida Sultan herself was immortalized in the same complex after her death. In 1682, she was buried in a magnificent mausoleum built at the rear of the mosque. Other members of the dynasty, including 5 sultans, were subsequently buried here.

On one side of the mosque there is a small, cozy three-room Sultan's Pavilion. It is known that it was built specifically for Valide Sultan, who was supposed to rest here while visiting the New Mosque.

Balyk ekmek ( Balık Ekmek): what it is

Boats used to prepare balyk ekmek in Eminonu

For many decades, fishermen brought their catch from the Sea of ​​Marmara and the Bosphorus to the island to sell. After some time, enterprising boatmen realized that fish could not only be sold fresh, but also cooked from it. The kitchen was set up right here. They installed grills and stoves in the boats and started frying fish fillets, pieces of which were then placed on a cut loaf. The dish immediately became extremely popular. To attract customers, sellers today tirelessly shout: “Balık Ekmek! (Balyk Ekmek!)”, which translated into Russian simply means “fish in bread”.

This traditional Turkish dish is adored not only by visitors, but also local residents who eat such budget fast food almost every day. To see all this with your own eyes and enjoy the taste and aroma of baked fish of different varieties, just come to the Emenenu area, namely to the west of the Galata Bridge. Here, next to the fish market, bright boats of all kinds sway rhythmically on the transparent water surface. It is in them that the cooks are located - the Turks in national costumes, preparing food for everyone. The pier is replete with cozy cafes and restaurants where tourists can comfortably sit for an impromptu feast. In addition to fish fillets, bread pieces are often served with a simple salad of lettuce, tomatoes and onions.

The best drink to go with Balik Ekmek is considered to be şalgam suyu, which is similar in color to red wine and tastes like the usual brine.

That’s how quickly and easily Balik Ekmek became a real symbol of Istanbul’s Eminönü district. The line of people wanting to try this unusual sandwich here never seems to dry up. By the way, you can try it along the entire embankment. There are also culinary vendors popping around here every now and then, pulling carts with grills. They prepare food right in front of amazed customers.

Where to try balyk ekmek and its cost

Balyk ekmek and shalgam (şalgam)

When Turks say “balyk ekmek”, the first thing that comes to mind is kiosks, as well as “carts” with seafood and herbs in Eminonu or Kadikoy. At any time of the day, these establishments are full of people who want to try this Turkish fast food, and sometimes you have to stand in a long line for this delicacy.

Despite the simplicity of the interior, which is sometimes completely absent, if you buy fish at a kiosk, you are guaranteed a view of the sea, seagulls and passing ships and ferries. Search free place on a bench on the embankment and enjoy.

The average price of fish in bread or balik ekmek (in the Eminonu area) is 10 Turkish lira. But, from different sellers it may vary slightly and range from 8 to 12 liras. The cost of shalgam is 1.5-2 liras. Thus, a snack for two with this delicious Turkish fast food will be about 25 liras.

I would also like to note here that if you want to eat mussels, keep in mind that in Turkey they are usually always stuffed with rice and spices.

Balıkçı Emin (Balykchy Emin)

Balıkçı Emin to Eminonu

One of the most famous places with excellent fish in bread is, of course, Karaköy. This is where the fisherman and part-time cook is located, or in Turkish, balykchi Emin or Emin mouth (Balıkçı Emin / Emin Usta).

By the way, the word “usta” translated from Turkish means professional, master, with extensive experience in a certain type of activity.

The freshest fish in spices prepared by this chef is simply irresistible.

And for those who like lighter treats, it’s worth trying fish in pita bread with herbs. Crispy lettuce, grilled fish and thin pita bread are to die for.

Balik Ekmek (Emin Usta)

Where to find Emin's balykchi:

Address: Karaköy Perşembe Pazarı No: 34421 İstanbul Türkiye

Muradoğlu Balık Ekmek

Balık Ekmek directly on the ship in Muradoğlu Balık Ekmek

Since 1995, in this cafe, located right on a small ferry, you can try not only fish in bread, but also salad, which you need to eat with your hands. The lack of instruments is a local flavor. The table is laid with newspaper, you sit on stools and enjoy a wonderful view of the sea, right next to the fishing boats.

Fish you can try at Muradoğlu Balık Ekmek

In addition to balyk ekmek, which is washed down with shalgam, here you can eat grilled fish such as anchovy, horse mackerel, sea bass, and you can taste squid and mussels.

Cafe Muradoğlu on the map:

Address: Kelle İbrahim Cad. Balıkçı Barınağı Beykoz

Taka Balık Ekmek

Cafe Taka Balık Ekmek near the sea

One of the best fish markets in Istanbul, located on the Yeniköy embankment, offers its visitors not only balik ekmek, but also excellent fried anchovy.

Balık Ekmek in Taka Balık Ekmek

The cost of balyk ekmek here is 9 liras. There are also various grilled fish, squid and mussels. Salads from 8 to 12 lira.

Cafe Taka Balyk Ekmek on the map:

Address: Yeniköy Mah. Koybaşı Cad. Sarıyer (Köybaşı) İstanbul

At any time of the year, you can find balik ekmek sellers in the Eminonu and Kadikoy areas, so if you are hungry, feel free to head closer to the embankments to try this seafood fast food.

Have a nice trip!

https://www.site/2016-10-18/provereno_na_sebe_gorod_na_bosfore_po_prezhnemu_horosh_dlya_puteshestviy

Everything is calm in Istanbul

Tested for myself: the city on the Bosphorus is still good for travel

Most of our compatriots are familiar with Türkiye from the resort of Antalya and the “all inclusive” format. However, it is never too late to discover the former Constantinople and the former capital Ottoman Empire- Istanbul, not inferior in attractiveness to Rome and Berlin. The city on the Bosphorus is convenient not only because of the numerous connections in all directions in a huge international airport named after Ataturk. It’s definitely worth staying longer to feel the amazing and unique mix of European traditions and oriental flavor.

What speaks in favor of Istanbul, first of all, is its geography: one of the shores of the Bosphorus Strait lies in Europe. But unlike Europe, you do not need a visa to Turkey: the main thing is that when you arrive in this country, your passport is valid for at least another four months.

Istanbul is home to 14 million people, although the citizens themselves claim that there are at least 20 million. Constantly crowded with pedestrians, Istiklal Street, along which an ancient tram runs, is surrounded by small alleys full of quite European cafes, restaurants and clubs. Among the latter there are even strip clubs, and alcohol, including strong alcohol, is freely available at night.

You shouldn’t be surprised: Turkey remains a secular republic, where wearing Muslim clothing is not at all mandatory, and customs are not so strict. Therefore, local residents use cosmetics with all their might and paint themselves, perhaps even a little brighter than Russians.

An ordinary Istanbul family differs little in appearance from ours, although among visitors from the hinterland there are people in traditional Middle Eastern clothing.

The most important point is safety. The Turks themselves say that after recent well-known events, it is at an unprecedented high level.. Although anyone who has been to Turkey will confirm: traffic it can give the impression of complete chaos, and traffic jams in Istanbul are not inferior to, say, Yekaterinburg.

Located on the two banks of the Bosphorus Strait - in Europe and Asia, respectively - the city has an impressive historical part, in which not only ancient Byzantine buildings have been preserved, but also a large number of Ottoman monuments (on the right in the photo is the famous Galata Tower, with observation deck which offers excellent views of Istanbul).

The most visited monument is, of course, Hagia Sophia. The ancient Christian cathedral, which first became a mosque and now serves as a museum, is striking in its scale, where symbols of both world religions, inextricably linked with the history of the great city, coexist. Once inside, be sure to go up to the upper levels, where you can see perfectly preserved mosaic icons - evidence of the long historical journey both the temple and the city itself, of which this grandiose structure is a symbol, has traveled.

It is definitely worth seeing the Basilica Cistern, a medieval underground water storage facility with a capacity of about 80 thousand cubic meters. Its vaults support more than three hundred 8-meter columns taken from ancient temples.

However, one of the main pleasures of Istanbul is Turkish cuisine. Familiar to most of us only from kebabs (of which there are actually about 300 types), here it blossoms in all its diversity and splendor: from huge amount street food outlets to premium restaurants. The best option quickly get acquainted with at least a basic set of dishes - use the services of gastronomic guides. You are guaranteed not only a trip to catering establishments, but also an excellent excursion into the history and culture of Turkey.

Street chefs have their own legends. Emin-usta (Master Emin, aka Mario) is the author of a new version of the traditional Istanbul fast food “balyk ekmek” (literally - fish and bread). The competitors laughed at first when he suggested wrapping fish and vegetables in pita bread. Now they are repeating this recipe, and Emin is already the star of culinary films about Istanbul and a favorite of gastronomic tourists. Although you will have to wait 15-20 minutes for fish in lavash from master Emin, the variety of flavors in the “fish shawarma” will definitely amaze you. Just remember to say “not spicy” if you don’t like it spicy!

In traditional places, on these swinging boats near the bridge over the Golden Horn Bay, they will prepare the same dish for you in less than a minute. But the presentation is appropriate - a thick bun, a lot of raw onions, there are bones in the fish. Completely simple, but also delicious, especially if you sprinkle it with lemon juice, which is on each table.

By the way, about lemons. Another legend of Istanbul streets is the seller of fresh lemonade. For just 2 Turkish lira (about 45 rubles at the exchange rate at the beginning of October) and accompanied by loud melodic cries, a glass of lemonade is poured for you, with fresh mint thrown into it. After you drink half a glass, the seller, with a joke, refills your glass and completely free of charge. Sometimes even a couple of times.

A special treat is Turkish tea and coffee. From relatively inexpensive varieties, the Turks manage to brew tart and aromatic drinks. The secret of the taste of tea is in the duration of the procedure: 15-20 minutes in a special teapot, reminiscent of our samovar. During this time, the drink has time to “ripen” and reveal its taste.

Where there is tea, there are sweets. A good half of the establishments offer not kebab at all, but the famous Turkish baklava, Turkish delight and a couple of dozen other types of various confectionery products. To the story about culinary joys, let’s add information about prices: they are extremely affordable even after changes in the exchange rates of the Turkish currency to the ruble. You can eat a hot dish on the street for 5 liras (just over 100 rubles), drink a glass of freshly squeezed pomegranate juice - from 4 liras (just under 100 rubles, respectively). The mentioned “balyk ekmek” from master Emin costs 10 liras (about 230 rubles), and its simple fast food counterpart costs 8 liras (about 180 rubles).

Istanbul is one of the world's designated shopping capitals. You can visit not only the huge shopping centers and outlets with brands familiar to us (many brands, by the way, are made in Turkey), but also the famous Grand Bazaar. However, you will get no less, and perhaps even more pleasure, from visiting hundreds and thousands of shops and stalls on numerous shopping streets.

A separate conversation concerns specialized shopping: for example, a visit to the spice market will be a real adventure for any tourist who comes to Istanbul for the subtle flavor of oriental exoticism. Authentic atmosphere and entire blocks of stalls with mountains of spices, sweets, tea, coffee... This is a true pleasure for all senses, so don’t forget to try everything. However, at the market and in the store, most likely, the sellers themselves will offer this to you.

Direct flights from Russian cities to Istanbul are provided by Turkish airline Airlines, repeatedly recognized as the best in Europe (sixth year in a row according to Skytrax rating). The flight from Yekaterinburg will take about five hours, the time difference with Yekaterinburg is two hours (that is, in Istanbul Moscow time). The weather in Istanbul even at New Year it can be warm (the author of these lines once walked around the city on December 27, and the thermometer showed +18 C). You can stay in hotels of well-known European chains, as well as in many private hotels, hostels and even apartments. It is better to settle closer to the historical center and on the European side. This is where all the main attractions are concentrated.

Affiliate material. The trip took place by invitation Turkish Airlines

The best Balik Ekmek from Emin Usta in Istanbul - We have found the creator of the best Balik Ekmek recipe in the world!!!. Subscribe/Subscribe https://www.youtube.com/greenjek GreenJek channel (https://www.facebook.com/GreenJek/) found the best master in Istanbul (according to the Time Out award), who prepares Balik Ekmek. His name is Emin Usta, also known as "Mario" due to his resemblance to the famous character computer game. Emin Usta cooks fish in olive oil and lemon juice. Fried onions, chopped chili, a mix of herbs, spices and tomatoes, and also uses a secret sauce. Mario is truly the best. There may be a queue and you will wait a long time for your Balik Ekmek, although the neighboring merchants may not have anyone. They say Mario has a lot of Korean clients. He is known in South Korea as the best master of Balık Ekmek, and this is written about on popular Korean websites dedicated to street food. Balık Ekmek - Fish in bread. One of the most popular street food dishes in Istanbul. One of the most popular dishes of street food in Istanbul. Galata Bridge, fish market area. Walking through the streets here you can find the most delicious street sandwiches with fish called Balik Ekmek. Galata Bridge, the area of ​​the fish market. Coming here on the streets you can find the street delicious fish sandwiches called Balik Ekmek. Vlog GreenJeka tried several variations of Balik Ekmek. Come to our channel, subscribe, and we will show you more than one option :) Subscribe to news and announcements! https://www.facebook.com/greenjek http://vk.com/greenjekvideo Our playlists: Humor from GreenJek.com - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... Traveling with GreenJek.com - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... "All about Fishing" from GreenJek.com - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... Cooking from GreenJek.com - https http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... Odessa from GreenJek.com - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edmnE... Video created with the support of: http://greenjek. com/ http://music.kas.od.ua/ Music in video https://audiojungle.net/item/loop-for-fun/19778558 more music here https://audiojungle.net/user/fhr/portfolio #Istanbul #Istanbul #Travel

 

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