Where you can go on excursions from Catalonia. Amazing little-known routes in the outback of Catalonia. Where can you go while holidaying on the Costa Brava? We went to the Oceanarium
On the Mediterranean coast there are many large and small, famous and not so famous, luxurious and modest resort towns. Among all this diversity, Barcelona stands out. Bright, controversial, proud and, of course, unusually atmospheric. This is a city of geniuses, unrecognized and recognized talents, and, of course, art fans. A city that can rightfully be called the resort capital of the Mediterranean. However, even with all this diversity and splendor, sometimes you want to travel around Spain by car, starting the route from Barcelona and discovering more and more new corners of Catalonia and beyond every day.
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The simplest and quick way getting to Barcelona is a plane ride. Daily in international Airport El Prat receives at least 10 regular flights from Russia. In addition, you can consider options with transfers. You can find the cheapest and most convenient option and book tickets on the Aviasales website. From other ways - Railway and a bus. In both cases, you will have to get from Moscow to Paris, and then make a transfer. It is immediately worth noting that such a journey will take a lot of time.
Where to stay in Barcelona
Barcelona is a big city, and there are hotels of different star ratings, from luxury to economy class, in almost every area. There are more than 200 of them in total. And this does not take into account the numerous apartments, hostels and campsites. And, despite this, during the season, places need to be booked in advance. A distinctive feature of the Barcelona five is that design hotels and so-called “boutiques” are often found among them. Even here, the love for art typical of the Catalan capital is not absent. By the way, not always traditional - among such hotels there are often avant-garde ones. As for the price, it varies - from 200-300 euros per day for a double room in luxury hotels in the central part of the city to 5-10 for a “bed” in hostels. Here, as they say, everyone chooses for themselves. Fortunately, there is plenty.
Barcelona
Features a rooftop pool and terrace with city views
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Barcelona
Just 10 minutes walk from Plaza Catalunya
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Hotel Lloret Ramblas
Barcelona
Located on the famous Rambla, near Plaza Catalunya
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Car rental in Barcelona
If you plan to travel around Spain on your own, it is most convenient to do this with a rented car - there are many companies in Barcelona that provide such services. Managers, as a rule, are ready to communicate with clients in advance, book a car for specific dates at their request, and even deliver it to the airport parking at the specified time. Then the payment for this will be purely symbolic. But it’s better to find out in advance where to look for parking during your trips - in Spain they are not cheap and spontaneity in this matter can be very expensive, in the literal sense of the word.
Sights of Barcelona
Where to start getting to know Barcelona? Even experienced travelers who have visited it more than once will probably not answer this question. Some people prefer to walk along the noisy, always lively Rambla, some prefer to look at it from the height of the Columbus monument, some prefer to admire the legendary Sagrada Familia Cathedral, some prefer to enjoy the silence (yes, this is possible even despite the presence of hundreds of tourists) Park Güell... Barcelona has a lot of attractions that have become its symbol. But still, despite the rather diverse “mast see” collage, you still have to highlight something important for yourself. If you answer the question - where to go in Barcelona, if you only have an hour to explore it, it will probably still be La Rambla. Why? Because it is as controversial as the Catalan capital.
At first glance, she is cheerful and carefree. But you just have to look at the sad faces of living sculptures, turn right (if you walk from Plaza Catalunya towards the embankment) and find yourself in the Boqueria market, colorful and devoid of any metropolitan flair, turn left, walk a few blocks and stumble upon the Cathedral, which serves as the residence Archbishop and built back in the 15th century (although it began even earlier - in the 13th century), it becomes clear that the Rambla, like Barcelona itself, is much deeper. One involuntarily recalls the lines of the Russian poet N. Rylenkov “Here it is not enough to hear, here you need to listen... Here it is not enough to see, here you need to look closely...”. This is about her - the central pedestrian street of Barcelona.
If there is something contradictory, ambiguous, but invariably fascinating and... amazing(in terms of architecture, of course), then this is the Sagrada Familia, or as it is also called the Sagrada Familia. It is truly unique - this is a structure that preserves the memory of many historical events (construction began in 1882) and at the same time sounds in unison with modernity, connecting eras and generations with an invisible thread. It should be noted that this is the only case in the history of architecture when an unfinished long-term construction (the completion date has been postponed more than once and is currently scheduled for 2026), which attracts millions of tourists and is incredibly popular.
And finally, in order to understand Barcelona, you cannot ignore the famous Camp Nou stadium. Football for the capital of Catalonia is like second air, and it is not surprising that their favorite team is treated with awe and respect. It is no coincidence that the slogan “More than a club” is emblazoned on the podium. During the tour, guests can sit in the stands, visit the commentary room and go to the edge of the field. And, of course, get acquainted with the museum exhibition. Of course, these are not all the attractions of Barcelona. Olympic Park, Casa Batlló and La Mila, Park Güell, the magnificent old port, the Picasso Museum, the mysterious Gothic Quarter... You can go on for quite a long time and what you have time to see depends solely on the availability of time. There is enough interesting stuff here for more than one week.
How to save money in Barcelona?
Everyone knows that Barcelona is an expensive city. If there is an opportunity to save money, then why not take advantage of it?
- Skip-the-line tickets to Sagrada Familia and Park Guell
- Transfer from and to Barcelona Airport or one-way transfer from Girona Airport will allow you to quickly and comfortably reach the city center
- Tickets for the Hop-On Hop-jff bus
- 20% discount on tickets to best museums(including Picasso, Joan Miró, MNSC), attractions (including Casa Mila, Casa Batllo and Camp-Nou), excursions and bike tours, Hola Transport card
Barcelona - Lloret de Mar - Girona - Vila Sacra
Having decided to go on an independent auto tour from Barcelona, many tourists first of all go towards Lloret de Mar. Moreover, in one day you can visit several places at once. interesting cities. Having covered literally 70 kilometers, travelers find themselves in a completely different reality. Despite the popularity of the resort, a calm, peaceful atmosphere reigns here. In addition, there are quite a lot of attractions in Lloret de Mar - the San Juan Castle, located on the coast and which has become business card throughout the Costa Brava, the romantic chapel of St. Cristina, patroness of the city, the gardens of St. Clotilde and others. For those who decide to spend the night in Lloret de Mar, the town opens up from a completely different side. When the sun sets, it seems to come to life and the streets, which seemed quiet and calm during the day, turn into one big party. You can roam between bars until dawn. The main thing is not to overdo it with cocktails, especially if you plan to travel further in the morning.
The next destination for many travelers is Girona, the distance to which is only 35 kilometers. It is often called the immortal city (the city fortress over the years of its existence managed to withstand 25 sieges, and this is really a lot!), Spanish Florence and even the city of Salvador Dali (although the museum dedicated to him is located not here, but in Firegas). Girona is not as famous and popular as its neighbor Barcelona, but no less beautiful. The best way to start exploring Girona is with a walk through the Old Town. Small colorful houses of the 17th century with multi-colored facades, located on the embankment of the Onyar River, invariably fascinate and remind of the affairs of bygone days (someone compares them with Florence - and indeed there is some similarity), and Plaza Catalunya, which has the appearance wide bridge and connecting the two banks, looks very unusual and even mysterious. And, of course, you can’t pass by the medieval Cathedral, the construction of which began back in the 14th century.
Vila Sacra is located literally 20 kilometers from Girona. Why is it worth visiting this small cozy village? At least to breathe the air of the Spanish province, find out what the national cuisine is (not aimed at tourists, but truly local!) and spend the night in a cozy hotel, so that in the morning you can go on to discover beautiful Spain with renewed vigor.
Vila Sacra - Empuriabrava - Besalu - Castelfiolite de la Roca
Inquisitive tourists are unlikely to want to stay in Vila Sacra for a long time - a couple of hour evening walk is enough to get around the entire village. Therefore, in the morning, after having a snack at the hotel, you can get ready to hit the road to the shores of bohemian Empuriabrava. This resort town often called the Spanish Venice. It is all “cut up” with canals, their total length exceeds 35 kilometers - this is a world record. As in Venice, luxury villas have access to the water - local residents often travel on yachts and boats. However, you can also travel by land to any point in Empuriabrava. In general, this is a very atmospheric town, a walk through which will certainly give you a lot of positive emotions and vivid impressions.
Among the resort's attractions, the beaches are the first to be noted. Wide, sandy, almost endless... Essentially there are two of them - one well-maintained and the other wild. Despite the popularity of Empuriabrava, places in the sun even at the height of tourist season enough for everyone. But lovers of architectural masterpieces will most likely be disappointed by this town. It is not old, and there are no attractions as such here. But in medieval Besalu, the first mention of which dates back to the 10th century, there are plenty of them. It would be more correct to say that the whole city is one continuous attraction. It is small in area, only 5 square kilometers, and you can get around all the nooks and crannies in 2-3 hours. City landmarks are the El Castel castle and the bridge over the El Fluvia river. However, not only they, but also every house, every alley remind of its former greatness.
Having thoroughly enjoyed the color of bygone days, you can move on. Just 15 kilometers from Besalu is the village of Castellfollit de la Roca, very famous far beyond the borders of Spain. It is surprising primarily because it is located right in the rock. And it was built no less than in the distant Middle Ages. Hence the very unusual architecture and many buildings, worthy of attention. Among them, the Church of San Salvador and the museum located next to it stand out. From the observation deck you can enjoy stunning panoramic views of the surrounding area. Overall, Castellfollit de la Roca is not just colorful – it seems lost in time. Walking along its narrow streets, you begin to believe that a brave knight in armor or a lady in a chic fluffy dress will appear around the corner. Fortunately, there are very few tourists here and the stories of the guides do not disturb this mysterious atmosphere. But, no matter how beautiful the village in the mountains is, it is unlikely to interest inquisitive travelers for more than 2-3 hours. Therefore, in the evening you can return to Vila Sacra in order to continue your journey in the morning and see a completely different Spain - in the Pyrenees Mountains.
Vila Sacra - Seira, Pyrenees
From Vila Sacra to Seira is not that close - about 350 kilometers. However, the roads in Spain are good and the journey can easily be covered in 4-4.5 hours. Why, if you decide to visit the Pyrenees, should you stay here? First of all, because Seira is a very cozy colorful village where you can get acquainted with national traditions and feel the special spirit of the Spanish province. Secondly, housing here is not expensive - for the price of a room in a three-star hotel in Barcelona you can rent a two-story apartment with mountain views. From the point of view of attractions, Seira is of no interest. They simply aren't here. But the immediate surroundings deserve attention. The first place to go is the Estany De Cavallers lake dam. It is considered the most equipped and convenient for inspection. The building is truly amazing in its scale. In addition, the dam itself offers breathtaking views.
You can admire nature almost alone - getting to Estany De Cavallers is not so easy; this can only be done with your own transport. That is why there are not too many tourists here. In the area of the dam there are simple places for rest (wooden tables and benches), but if you want to relax and have a picnic, you should stock up on food in advance - there are no shops or other retail outlets here. Not far from the lake there is national park Aiguestortes. It is notable primarily for the fact that several routes for short trekking have been laid across the territory - the simplest one, designed for unprepared tourists, can be covered in 2-3 hours. Along the road there are fast mountain rivers, slopes rushing towards the clouds, and almost abandoned bridges. Occasionally, somewhere in the distance you can see lonely houses. The landscapes are complemented by lonely walking cows with bells - almost alpine romance. Although the Pyrenees landscapes are not at all similar to the Alps. They are beautiful, mesmerizing and breathtaking in their own way.
While enjoying the beauty, do not forget about returning home - from Aiguestortes to Seira is not so far, only 80 kilometers, but the road is quite difficult - a narrow serpentine. Therefore, it is better to overcome it before sunset.
Seira - Benasque
Just 22 kilometers from Seira there is a place that is known to every lover of active winter holidays – ski resort Benasque. In winter, at the height of the season, there is literally “nowhere for the apple to fall.” But in the summer, in a small town with a population of 2000 people, as if lost among the Pyrenees peaks, it is calm and quiet. In the surrounding area there are several trekking routes of varying difficulty - designed for both amateurs and professionals who know a lot about hiking. The beauty of the surrounding landscapes amazes even seasoned travelers - glaciers, lakes, waterfalls... not a single photograph conveys all this grandeur and splendor. Benasque is not only a modern ski resort. The city has quite interesting story, so it is not surprising that there are many architectural attractions on its streets. Among them are the palace of the counts of Ribagorza, the houses of Casa Juste, Casa Faure and Casa Martial del Rio. As you can see, this place has always attracted representatives of the Spanish nobility. In addition, the 13th century Romanesque church of Santa Maria Maggiore deserves attention.
The Seira-Benasque road is not very long, only 22 kilometers, but if you deviate just a few meters from the main route, you can find yourself in a truly fabulous places. One of them is the dam near the Presa de Benasque lake. It itself is closed to the public, but nearby there is an observation deck with a beautiful view panoramic view to the dam itself, a tunnel through the rock (they are quite common in the Pyrenees) and the lake. Another place that would be a crime to drive past is Lake Escarpinosa and the Posets-Maladeta Park located in its vicinity. Many call it the most beautiful thing in the Pyrenees. In any case, nature lovers and beautiful scenery will not remain indifferent.
You can end this day by staying at one of the hotels in Benasque (in summer, prices for accommodation in the city are very attractive, since the resort is empty) or by returning to Seira - it will be more convenient to continue your journey from there.
Seira - Montserrat - Castelldefels
Of course, that's not all interesting places Pyrenees Mountains, but if you are limited in time, this “must see” route can be considered completed. On the way to Barcelona there is an object that you simply cannot pass by. This is the spiritual center of Catalonia, the holy of holies for local residents and Catholics around the world - monastery Montserrat. It is famous primarily for the fact that it is here that the statue of the Black Virgin of Montserrat is located. The history of the monastery began more than 1000 years ago. Since then and to this day it has been considered active, although now there are not too many monks, no more than 20 people. There is a small museum at the monastery where you can learn about the affairs of bygone days. In terms of architecture, the Montserrat monastery is interesting primarily because it was almost completely rebuilt in the 19th century with the participation of the famous and controversial architect Antonio Gaudi. He embodied his ideas related to human unity and endless harmony here really very successfully.
Montserrat Monastery is located in a very picturesque location. There are several trekking routes in its vicinity; for the convenience of tourists, there are signs everywhere, so you won’t be able to get lost at all. In addition, they pass through the most picturesque places and are designed for tourists with different levels of physical fitness - even those who are experts in sports can cope with conquering the simplest ones.
How much time should you plan to visit Montserrat Monastery? For some, just a few hours are enough, while others are ready to stay here forever. For those who decide to stay and spend the night, there is a hotel next to the monastery. True, the prices here are not low, tourist prices.
Having completed your acquaintance with the monastery and having breathed enough of the air of the monastery, you can return to the coast. Back to Barcelona? Of course, this is possible, but there are still many wonderful places in Catalonia where you can end up at last. For example, the miniature and very cozy town of Castelldefels. It is known, first of all, for its endlessly long beach - perfect place in order to put a final point and say goodbye to beautiful Spain. In addition, there is great amount restaurants with a wide variety of cuisines - from national Catalan to Japanese. Seafood dishes are considered a local highlight. If you are lucky enough to get to Kastfeldefels in July or October, then you can become a participant in a pirate feast or a chestnut festival; the fame of these events “spreads” throughout Catalonia.
Catalonia is beautiful everywhere: from the secluded coves and beaches of the coast to the red canyons of Noguera and the proud castles of Lleida. There are many attractions - you just need to know the route.
Route: Catalonia
If they tell you that Catalonia is not Spain, believe it immediately and unconditionally. It is an autonomous region with its own flag, coat of arms and anthem, with its own Catalan language as the state language. It has its own police, legal system and even government - the Generalitat, which meets in its own capital, Barcelona. Catalans do not like flamenco, but at every opportunity they dance the sardana, the music for which was composed by Pep Ventura, a native of Figueres. This round dance symbolizes the unity of the Catalans and their independence, which they have been yearning to restore for the last 300 years. Catalonia occupies the north-eastern corner of Spain from the Montsia Mountains across the Ebro River to the French border in the Pyrenees. The historical region of Catalonia extends even further, including the French provinces of Languedoc-Roussillon and Midi-Pyrénées.
To enjoy all this exquisite bouquet, we set off on a trip to Catalonia by car.
There are so many attractions in Catalonia that it is difficult to list them: great museums, medieval cities, ancient monasteries, natural parks, beaches of the Costa Dorada and cliffs of the Costa Brava, ancient ruins and high-tech buildings.
The journey begins in Barcelona. This is the heart and soul of Catalonia. The city stands on the seashore in the amphitheater of the Collserola mountains, and the free wind of freedom blows through the streets, between the hills of Montjuic and Tibidabo, from Columbus at the shipyard where his ships were built, to the snails crawling along the spiers of the Sagrada Familia. The Gothic Quarter is the oldest. It even preserves the remains of the ancient Roman era, when the city was called Iulia Augusta Favencia Paterna Barsino. Start your walk from Plaza Nova in front of Cathedral. The columns in its interior are the remains of the Temple of Augustus. The cathedral is dedicated to St. Eulalia, who lived in the 4th century. Eulalia was a Christian, for which she lost her life at the age of 13, so 13 white geese live in the cloister in memory of her. Be sure to have a coffee at Café Roma in Piazza Ramona Berenguer near the Roman Wall and cross Via Laetana. The old city continues here. The narrow Moncada street leads to the 14th-century palace - Pablo Picasso's museum, where he endlessly drew cartoons of Velazquez's Las Meninas. At the end of the street appears the bulk of the Church of Santa Maria del Mar, one of the oldest in Barcelona: a naked Gothic space, a mysterious and dark hall, the flickering of candles and the rustling of shadows. From here it is just steps to the new Old Port with its yacht marina, the Pier of Spain (a magnificent aquarium and the Maremagnum center with trendy bars and restaurants), the statue of Columbus and the Maritime Museum in the medieval docks of Drassanas. From Columbus begins the Rambla - a boulevard where one part of the public walks, while the other sits in endless street cafes and stares at the people walking. Then they change places. This is called passejada. On the Rambla you need to look at your feet (Joan Miró mosaics), around (living statues of angels, knights, Indians, etc.) and at your bag (thieves).
The main architectural genius of Barcelona is Antonio Gaudi. His masterpieces are scattered throughout the city. The first work is a fountain in Ciutadella Park. The second is the lanterns on Plaza Real in the old town. The third is the pseudo-Gothic Palace Güell opposite the square, at Nou de la Rambla, 3. Count Don Eusebio Güell was Gaudi's patron. For him, the maestro decorated it with forged dragon grilles country palace Pedralbes, later given to the king. And when the count decided to build a garden city, Gaudi created Park Güell (entrance from Olot Street). Everything flows and meanders there - paths, bridges, benches, decorated with mosaics made of broken ceramics.
Driving around Barcelona is very difficult. There are many one-way streets, unusual traffic patterns, and continuous intersections. You can't do without a navigator in your car!
There are a lot of thieves in Barcelona, especially in tourist places- near the Sagrada, Gaudi's houses, in the Gothic Quarter. The most dangerous neighborhoods for wallets are El Raval and Sant Antoni.
The legendary Ferran Adria opened the signature cuisine restaurant Tickets at Avinguda Parallel, 164. Be sure to stop by!
Gaudi considered his main creation to be the Sagrada Familia - the Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family. He built something unheard of, with 170-meter towers, spiral staircases, sculptures growing out of the walls. Gaudi did not have time to complete the construction, having died under the wheels of a tram, so the temple is still being completed.
Route: Montserrat Monastery
From Barcelona, exit through the Valvidrera tunnel on the C-16, which was formerly the Roman road Via Augusta (from which there is an exit for Montserrat). If you have missed the tunnel, you can take the A-2 (exit to Martorell). Mileage: approximately 130 km.
From Barcelona we go to Mount Montserrat, which is located about 50 km from Barcelona, near the town of Monistrol. Its name means "Sawn Mountain". “The little angels cut out these rocks with a golden saw in order to build a palace there,” as it is sung in an old ballad. In the 7th century, hermits settled here and built two monasteries - St. Mary's and St. Iskla. And at the beginning of the 11th century, Benedictine monks settled in the monastery of Santa Maria and turned it into a monastery. The monastery houses the main Catalan relic - La Moreneta, the Black Virgin. Her figure is carved from black wood, in her hand she holds Earth. You can take a cable car to the top of the mountain and admire the magnificent views from there.
Route: Tossa de Mar
We leave Barcelona along the C-32 road or the A-7 highway to Girona, then take the exit to Sant Feliu de Guixols (on the C-35), then turn to Tossa de Mar and arrive in the city along the serpentine road. Mileage: 320 km.
The most beautiful part of the Catalan coastline is called the Costa Brava, which stretches from Blanes to Portbou near the French border. The most direct road will be 158 km, along the coastal road - 322. These serpentines wind through the most beautiful places, offering fantastic views.
The car confidently rushes along smooth Spanish roads. The great thing is that the car has three “package” modes - Sport, Normal, Eco. Thanks to this, you can adjust the car to suit you on the go. For example, in the city, get a lighter steering wheel, earlier gear changes and engine and climate control operation aimed at saving fuel. True, in the most economical mode, the response to the gas pedal becomes lazy. But in the sport mode, the responsiveness of the engine sharply increases and you can enjoy the rich sound of the exhaust, the sharp reactions of the car and the tight, rich steering wheel when turning... And there are plenty of turns on our way. “Costa Brava” translates as “wild” or “rocky” coast. It is all cut up by kala bays with reddish rocks overgrown with crooked pines, junipers and tamarisks. Secluded small beaches are hidden between the rocks, nets are dried on the embankments in ancient fishing villages, and colorful boats sunbathe on the sand. The Tramontana blows there - a mystical wind from the Pyrenees Mountains, driving birds and romantics crazy. When the Tramontana blows, old people gather in bars and speak in poetry, and the anchovies themselves swim in the nets.
To get the most out of the Costa Brava, take the coastal road to nearby Sant Feliu de Guixols. It is called the “road of 365 turns” and is considered the most beautiful road in the world. In the most spectacular places there are “pockets” - observation platforms.
Tossa de Mar is the dream of romantics and poets: on the rocky shore, the 12th-century fortress town of Vila Vella with its battlements and round towers climbs the mountain. Yellow stones, pink bougainvillea, narrow staircase streets - and all this is permeated with endless Mediterranean blue. Palm embankment, where Ava Gardner and Marc Chagall walked. It’s very pleasant here to take a break from the streets of Barcelona, wander along the orange rocks, swim in clear water, and get to know the fishermen’s morning catch in some nice restaurant.
Route: Pyrenees
We leave along the same road in the direction of Gerona. In Llagostera the N-II road will become straight and we will reach Girona in an hour. We will drive through the entire city and leave the car in a large parking lot near Parque de la Devesa. Mileage: 80 km.
Gerona is a large city that balances at the crossroads of four rivers: Onyar, Güell, Ter and Fluvia. The city is 2500 years old and has a lot to show. Under the Romans, he bore the name Gerunda and guarded the Via Augusta road leading to Rome. The Onyar River divides it into two parts, and colorful houses grow from the river. There are four pedestrian bridges across the river; the iron-laced one is the brainchild of Eiffel. The houses near the river are located best restaurants- their windows overlook the green surface of water, along which ducks dart. On the other side lies Old city with the narrow streets of the medieval Jewish quarter of El Kal, a fortress, a Benedictine monastery and Gothic cathedrals. From Girona, the Via Augusta leads to the Pyrenees, to the count's town of Besala. We continue along the same road N-II and turn onto C-66 following the sign for Banyuls, then to Besala. The road goes along the L'Estany plain and leads to Besala in just half an hour. Fast? Of course, but we are driving a car with a sporty character. Although the interior of the Seat Leon FR does not boast of sports car attributes, it is given away by the steering wheel with a straightened rim at the bottom with the FR badge and red stitching on the steering wheel, gearbox cover and seats. The salon is very ergonomic. The front panel goes around the driver's seat in a semicircle, and the control units for the infotainment system and climate control are located on different tiers of the dashboard. Many functions can be controlled without removing your hands from the steering wheel, for this purpose there are buttons and rotating rollers on its spokes. They are convenient to use without even taking your eyes off the road.
So, the city of Besalu seems to have stepped out of the pages of a history textbook: an ancient stone bridge with towers, 12th-century fortress walls, a Romanesque bell tower and the ruins of the count's castle. Place Libertat with porticoes, arches, ancient palaces and the 10th century Saint Vincent Church, houses that seem to support each other, Gothic windows and unexpected abstract sculptures in the courtyards. The oldest street is called Taliaferro in honor of Count Bernard I, nicknamed the Iron, and it leads to the Portal of Power.
There are so many ancient and interesting things in Besalu that you should definitely go to the tourist office on Libertat Square (Plaça de la Libertat, 1) and pick up a map, and at the same time the key to the mikveh - the ancient Jewish ritual baths.
For lunch, tuck into duck and pears at Cúria Reial on Place Libertat or at Pont Vell on Rue Pont Vell.
Route: Cadaques
We return to the sea. But not to Tossa, but much further north, to Cape Creus, to Cadaques. The road is simple: the same N-260 to Figueres, from there C-260 to Roses, before Roses turn onto the local road to Cadaques. Mileage: 120 km.
On the way we turn into Figueres - hometown Salvador Dali. Here his theater-museum is “the largest surrealist object in the world.” Dali bought the burnt city theater, turned it into a museum and his home. Nearby is the Church of San Pere, where the baby Salvador was baptized. Another Dali Museum is located a little further, in the village of Pubol. This is an ancient castle that he gave to his wife - Gala, Galatea, Elena Dyakonova. Thanks to this castle, Dali received the title of marquis. From Figueres you need to go towards Girona along the A-7 or N-II, before Girona turn onto the C-66 to La Bisbal d'Empordà, before you miss the turn to Pubol. Then we go to Cadaques - a charming village in the depths of an amazing bay. Its white houses nestle comfortably in the green palms of the mountains, narrow streets with arches and blue balconies are covered with bougainvillea. Until recently, Cadaques was a fishing village, it still mends nets and dries lobster traps in the sun, but its modernist facades betray its artistic essence. A hundred years ago, Cadaques was inhabited by artists and poets, and at the beginning of the last century it was called the Catalan Saint-Tropez. Here every second house is a workshop, gallery or designer clothing store. Wonderful landscapes, endless paths along the sea, the ubiquitous smell of rosemary, twisted Tramontana olive trees and the divine peace of deserted beaches await you.
Well, it's time to return to Barcelona. Thanks to a comfortable car, the trip was comfortable. There are a lot of impressions in your luggage and a desire to return to excitedly travel through mountain serpentines Costa Brava and watch the sunset with a glass of wine on the luxurious beach of Tossa de Mar!
Two sisters, Olga and Tatyana, decided spontaneously to fly to the Costa Brava in the first half of May, although the intention to visit Spain “in general” by that time was already undeniable. Most of all, I was attracted by the opportunity to get to know Barcelona as the unique, legendary capital of modernism and the culture of Catalonia. Having booked tours through Natalie Tour (Fortuna, 3*, Malgrad de Mar, May holidays), immersed themselves in the Internet and various guidebooks. The town was chosen quite deliberately because of its central location, which allowed both to enjoy Barcelona (an hour and a quarter on a comfortable train) and to walk around the rest of Catalonia, looking even into tiny villages and looking for (as it later turned out) those not listed in reference books, but so rich local flavor of places and towns, buildings and bridges, which became clear by the end of the trip:
independence as a fundamental condition gives such undeniable advantages in knowledge and sensations as, for example, the tart, fragrant cabrales cheese is different from semi-synthetic cheese cheeses with buffet typical 3* Catalan hotel.
Among the sites we can recommend “100 roads”, “Spain.ru” - detailed and neatly laid out routes, hotels, telephone numbers, etc. In addition to professional information, we downloaded and studied the stories of those who had a rest. The result was freedom from the services of guides with their excursion, often very banal and average baggage, in which freedom, that is, we never had to be disappointed. On the spot we encountered high prices
for car rental. If we had a credit card, we would have booked online. Still, we took the Opel Corsa and only later, after talking with the Olimpia agent, the charming Czech Roman, we learned that through the websites of such local agencies you can order cars without a credit card, simply indicating your coordinates (when, where, through which travel agency). The prices are significantly lower than those offered locally. Among the latter, for example:
Class A
3 days - 104 euros
7 days - more than 210 euros (excluding the cost of gasoline, of course. The price of 1 liter is at least 0.8 euros).
And through the Internet, this picture was transformed very flirtatiously: for a day it turned out to be 20 euros, for a week - no more than 140.
Website address of the local agency "Olimpia": http://www.olimpiarent.com. By the way, the roads are not bad, even very. If you want to see Catalonia, use the free ones. Their speed limits were up to 80-100 km, but in reality it was 120-140, and we were by no means leaders, we were simply adapting to the majority. You won't be able to admire the surrounding area on toll highways. I had to struggle with the signs at first, but you get used to it quickly. You gape a little and you’ve already gotten yourself into another mess. In addition, I often had to ask how, for example, to get out of Canette de Mar, given that almost all the streets were one-way. You address them in Spanish and English, but in response you hear almost exclusively Catalan speech. As a result, the conversation often took place on the fingers.
Parking is a separate issue. Of course, there are underground ones that are paid. But when you often get out of the car, this option disappears. For tourists, they are suitable only with blue stripes (paid), white (free) or without identification marks at all, and this, in fact, is not parking.
Yellow markings prohibit leaving the car; for violation, you can be fined about 75 euros. Although we sometimes frivolously and with impunity ignored prohibiting signs, it was probably better not to take risks. More or less big cities It’s better to go around (unless, of course, this is your destination), since, as a rule, monstrous traffic jams form at the entrance and exit. And in Barcelona, as people in the know say, only masochists should drive their own cars.
In Figueres, for example, parking at the train station or nearby at a supermarket will save you. Just keep in mind that if the store closes, even for lunch (this one is open without a break, which, however, does not exclude various unexpected circumstances), your car will be towed. And the Dali Museum is worth a visit if only for the sake of the magnificent drawings - there is so much mischievous temperament and humor in his weird gnomes, deep national flavor and a rough thirst for life, and yet not a single drawing in books or on postcards that you can buy! They were terribly upset by this. I also remember Dali’s Christmas cards – light, soft, and sometimes exquisite. There are a total of 22 halls in the museum, and a few hours may be enough. The Museum of Catalan Art is also very good, tickets for which you will get at the Dali Museum. We came across a small courtyard with sand and earth cover in dense shade. Children explore the world, mothers talk about painful issues, tourists (we, that is) see the beauty of the everyday. Still, the lush and low crown of the trees immediately adds charm to even completely inexpressive fragments of the city, which you perceive in a different way.
On the way from Olot to Besala, we were amazed by the sight of a handmade house-temple, very skillfully woven from thick branches, apparently by local hippies. It's like a mock-up for a movie. Inside there are passages and floors.
Nearby is your own rock garden. They certainly couldn’t miss such a marvelous thing. They abandoned the car on the side of the road and went to click the shutter. About five minutes later we heard the slam of a closing door and, for the sake of peace of mind, we slowly walked back. It turned out that we followed on time, because the girl on the lookout made a sharp sound, and within seconds the car left us only vague outlines in the dust. They tried to brutally open our brand new Opel. In the end they just broke the lock. Lesson: it is undesirable to relax, leaving anything in the salon is unacceptable, and friendliness and openness require a combination of caution and attention, at a minimum.
You can safely drive all the way to Montserrat, fortunately the serpentine road is not steep at all and is certainly not comparable to the breathtaking spirals somewhere on the island of Corfu, where there are often no pegs along the edge of the road, and the edge of the road is the beginning of a cliff . In the afternoon before the start of the siesta, the place is even paid parking(3 euros for 1 hour) is difficult to find, and many, pushing around, park outside it, on the side of the road, which, as it seemed to us (we were also one of those), is quite safe. And you don’t have to languish in line to see Madonna - after the boys’ choir (on Sundays at 12:00) the people disperse, the line gradually dries up, and you can enjoy the view completely unhindered, without haste or jostling. Stone fingers immersed in greenery - the landscape is reminiscent of the famous Meteora in northern Greece, dotted with monasteries. But there is no such thoroughly commercial spirit freely floating here. You can forget about it by trying to walk up the Way of the Cross or getting lost in secluded corners, if you find any.
On our way back, we stopped in Martorell for the so-called Devil's Bridge (probably from the 14th century), which, together with two much later bridges, forms a very interesting triad. And there is also a Wine Square with a funny composition of barrels, and the people are funny and helpful. When Olya went into a local cafe asking for directions, almost everyone was involved and began arguing with each other, almost forgetting about the tourist. By the way, this is quite common in Catalonia, especially among the “ordinary” people. Seeing that you are a foreigner and do not speak the local language, they will still bombard you with a bunch of words that are completely useless in this case, and only occasionally did we meet those who sparingly and clearly showed and explained the direction so that it was clear primarily to the person asking.
A piece of coastline from secluded Tamariu to the eternally awake Lorette de Mar will give you views, again serpentine roads and amazing, healing air with a thick aroma of pine, so dense it’s like cutting. The cliffs drop into a sea of deep green-turquoise color. There are often observation platforms along the road, and in general this serpentine road seemed surprisingly comfortable.
Don’t ignore the towns that, according to the guides, have nothing. Interesting details and observations lie in wait everywhere, and only later will you appreciate them as unforgettable.
Places such as Aiguablava, Llafranc, the tiny village of Sa Riera, Tamariu, Calella de la Palafrugell, Tossa de Mar and others are picturesque and can charm lovers of a romantic getaway. Lake Banyolis (a unique landscape for Spain, reminiscent of a completely Russian outline) with the town of the same name, the Montseny nature reserve, mountainous medieval villages with fortresses and winding streets, finally, Cadaques, Port Bou, Roses, Castello de Empuries; towns of Vik, Olot (you can walk to extinct volcanoes Garocci with their craters, which are already difficult to identify as such - everything is overgrown), Puigcerda... The monasteries of Santa Maria de Poblet, Sant Pere de Rodes...
The resort of Empuriabrava (“Spanish Venice”), built in the 70s for yacht owners with fashionable white cottages, all cut by circular and straight canals, is now acquiring more and more democratic features in the form of many growing high-rise buildings - future hotels for yachtless visitors...
Nearby is the Castella d'Empurias, a 13th-century cathedral. A multi-figured, intricately crafted altar, a remarkably preserved baptismal font, a chapel from the 11th century, which for some reason remained among friends from the 13th century, very simple compared to their background, with a flat upper ceiling, in contrast to the domed one in later examples. To look at the relief of a statue or a reproduction (!) of a painting on wood in the depths of the chapel costs 1 euro - for the backlight.
Ripoll: the Benedictine monastery of Santa Maria and the church of Sant Pere (12th century) leave the impression of being untouched. It's damp, echoing and dark inside. A muffled chorus sounds through the radio sensors. No finishing.
The weight of centuries is felt almost literally. They even fell into a certain state of fascination, especially since there was no one around. An interesting portal (about 1200) under a transparent screen, a cozy courtyard.
Sant Joan de las Abadesas is notable for its 12th-century monastery and church, as well as its 12th-century bridge (Pont Vell), and is generally very pretty.
In Olot we walked the paths of modernism (Montaner, Azemar, Paluzie) and noticed that the central street was framed by trees with green and red foliage, alternately.
Besalu. Old city. Broken roads. Dilapidated houses. Tiny historical center. Lots of different casa. Monastery of Sant Pere and Church of Sant Vicens (977). A beautiful asymmetrical fortification bridge from the 11th century, which served as a toll entrance to the city.
Driving through Catalonia is like walking through a painting by Claude Monet - red poppies everywhere on a green field. And the smell of manure, and such picturesque fawn compositions “from the life of a cow herd” that are better than anything invented.
Every town, even a tiny one, has its own information service. Prospects, maps, booklets, announcements are mostly free, well published and are contraindicated only for the hopeless. If you speak at least English, you won’t have any problems communicating with the lovely girls from Informacio.
Bisbal is “shown” to ceramics lovers. The capital of pottery in Catalonia. Shops and “large shops” - every fifty meters, probably.
But Girona is equally attractive both for its historical part with the Jewish quarter and architecture in Romanesque and Gothic styles, and for its more recent areas with their coldish civilization. Shady, patterned, cobblestone streets, beautiful Rambla. Don't miss the Cinema Museum. In a private conversation with a nice employee of his (it had been raining all day, so all the visitors at that hour were me and an inquisitive kid with his dad) it turned out that there are only three museums of this level in Europe: here, in Germany and in France, and this statement is well It didn't seem like an exaggeration at all.
On the day of our Girona, a floristry festival opened. There are a lot of Catalans. Most of them are ladies over 40, energetic, lively, curious and kind. (Remark aside. Domestic tourism in Spain is extremely developed. Groups of local tourists animatedly discussing something are everywhere. Many are under 60-80 years old, but what good spirits are in the eyes and liveliness in the limbs!) The city itself served as a platform for the exhibitions. Compositions of flowers were on the stairs, in the nooks of the Jewish quarter, in cathedrals and chapels, floating on dozens of threads in the spaces of courtyards... It is unnecessary, I think, to mention the ingenuity and subtle taste of many of the artists. It was such an unexpected gift. And also hold the butt, make a wish, of the little funny lioness in the Old Town, take a walk along the fortress wall... One of our compatriots admitted that this is the city in which she would like to live at the end of her life and die there. IN small towns
And we have repeatedly encountered the fact that the local population has only heard about the “blue chips” in the arsenal of Catalan achievements. For the sake of experiment, we tried to look for one example of modernism in the town of Palafrugel by survey (there was no time left for “informacio”), but in vain.
The first impression of Spain, when traveling by bus from Barcelona airport to Malgrad de Mar, was simply devastating. The suburbs of the Catalan capital looked like an eerie jumble of stamped red-brown high-rise buildings and cottages. Houses are colliding with each other, chimneys, chimneys, industry is smoking, stone is crushing, the greenery has withered. The feeling of a hopeless existence squeezed into a fist. Working-class neighborhoods, what do you want? In Catalonia, by the way, there is a considerable percentage of rental workers due to higher salaries in this autonomous region compared to other Spain (although the average salary is just over 700 euros). They need to live somewhere.
Our town turned out to be a quiet haven, not without its curiosities, of course, but only exceptional bad weather could force us to linger there, which is what we encountered (a three-day storm gave some Costa Brava beaches the status of irreparable).
Local old people, walking, pass very close. A common feature of older ladies is funny little dogs, girls without age are well-built bodies and commanding intonations, gentle young people are dreamy and, as it seemed to us, complete subordination to their halves.
We even ignored the “bus-touristics” route, reasoning that in one or two days we could only knock down the tops. We ourselves mapped out the routes of modernism (Informacio will write out everything in detail for you for 0.3 euros per route) and gothic routes and, surrounded by a heap of multi-colored avenues, planned the next marathon every evening. By the way, the small magazine “See Barcelona” (we had No. 24 Spring 2002) will be very useful to you. His website is www.seebarcelona.com.
Barcelona has a surprisingly rich and vibrant museum life. We visited a fair number of permanent and temporary exhibitions, and the vast majority were not only well-equipped and conveniently equipped and lit for the viewer, but also contained a lot additional information in the form of thick catalogs on tables, computer educational programs, a tour guide “in the ears”, videos, background music, etc. And behind all this splendor one could feel constant, painstaking and loving work. Really, this museum part of the trip was almost more impressive than the famous “singing” fountains and the luxury of the modernist “casa”.
In addition, 2002 has been declared the year of Gaudi in honor of his 150th birthday, and it seems that you can learn everything about the Art Nouveau style and about the architect himself. The exhibition at La Pedrera is very good, introducing many of Gaudí’s objects. Within the Sagrada Familia - restoration and construction with zero prospect of completion, an extensive museum dedicated to the cathedral and its history (although the crypt with Gaudi's coffin was closed). The cathedral itself is very compact, but on postcards it seems simply grandiose.
Palay de la Musica Catalana (Domenech i Montaner), Quarter of Disharmony, including Casa Battlo (Gaudi), Casa Amatller (Puig i Cadafalch), Casa Lleo Morera (Domenech i Montaner); Casa Camalat (Pupurull, who was mistaken for a “pure” Gaudi), Casa Thomas (D. i Montaner), San Serra, Casa Quadras, Palau Montaner, Casa Punxes (Puig i Cadafalch), Palau Casades, Palau Robert, Casa Mila (“ La Pedrera" Gaudi), Casa Visens (Gaudi), Casa Calvet, La Ciutadella park with a modest riot of hippie people (everyone is sleeping, eating, making noise on the lawns, so we joined the blissful brethren), Palau de la Virreina ( Rococo style, 18th century)… oh, can you list everything? I was able to look into other houses, most of which are privately owned (in some places excursions are held) and hear how much more reverent and refined the Art Nouveau style sounds in its interior design. Due to the incredible diversity of Catalan modernism, which has absorbed many quotes and arrangements of Romanesque, Gothic, Arabic, classicist and other movements, it seems difficult to get enough of it.
But in addition to the modernist and Gothic routes (they are voluminous, of course, everyone chooses what they can do, but, fortunately for us, the first point of the program turned out to be the Guell Palace and it was he who left the most tender and downright sweet memories. And how can you was it possible to live? Solid stone and iron, marble and cast iron. Ceilings with amazing carvings are planted on the eye with their spiers. In the very ascetic interiors, the high demands of the aristocratic mind are felt. into which the air was molded. You could feel it with your hands. The feeling of spirituality of life in these walls, so unsuited for a comfortable life, did not leave. An eloquent combination of the creator’s obsession and his sober calculation, so ennobling the heavy stone and metal. ) there were a lot of interesting things, such as: Maritime Museum, Caixa Forum (huge exhibition complex. We coincided with an exhibition of 11 modernist artists from the collection of the Orangerie Museum in Paris. Free admission.); Guinovart is a Spanish artist of our time in La Pedrera (it was in his paintings that I was pierced by a clearly visible thought that the so-called spirit of a nation is most tangible through works of art. The impression of a strong, sinewy, fierce spirit, as if rooted in the ground - not tear it out! It’s probably funny, but in his “Spanish Family” I seemed to be sucked into a whirlpool of tragically beautiful breakdown, hopeless and such tenacious tenderness of a stocky heart...); Picasso Museum with the exhibition “Paris-Barcelona. 1888-1937” (Picasso’s collection is small, from early periods, but there are wonderful things from “blue” and “pink”); The A. Tapies Foundation, the Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art, the J. Miró Foundation... Each cultural center has its own exhibitions. Topics range from archeology to modern photography, and the national composition of those exhibited, of course, is far from being limited to Spaniards.
By the way, about modernism. Don’t be lazy to go to the famous cafe “4 Gats” (4 cats). Despite its star status as a grandma of the “Silver Age” and the memory of the cult figures of modernism, this gastronomic relic is not too expensive, and with a certain effort, the atmosphere of the turn of the century can be quite imagined, especially since the walls are thickly hung with paintings and photographs of those who painted these pictures.
And from the outside, the cafe “Muy buenas” looks intensely modern, not far from the discreet Placa Real.
And the central market, Boqueria, recently restored after 150 years of service to the city. Dates are the size of a small cucumber. An unbridled hymn of praise to the diversity of taste preferences. Clean, spacious. It’s almost impossible to leave without at least a small purchase.
Being familiar (rather superficially) only with the architecture of Gaudi, by the end of the trip we could already, without much thought, distinguish the works of Gaudi, Montaner, Cadafalch... From the second, in addition to the palaces, we would recommend a walk around the territory of the Hospital de la Santa Creu I Sant Pau.
Surprisingly elegant in proportions, in the curls of lanterns curling along the central pedestrian part - Passeig de Gracia, flowing onto Placa de Catalunya and turning into its supposed likeness - Rambla, on which (the boulevard, that is) there is no trace of that geometric balance and proportionality , that severity of lines and the feast of floral patterns on the grilles of buildings and lanterns, that frenzy in the decoration of countless casa and the tart taste of excess - in a word, the boulevard is a boulevard, with milling crowds, hard workers - living figures (try hanging upside down for half a day, pretending to be a scuba diver , and get pennies in the evening. We still don’t understand what motivates these “ascetics.”), quirky subjects of dubious appearance... Really, we didn’t find anything acutely national on this boulevard - such forms of urban life are very typical for European cities. But we observed, very amusing for onlookers and painful for the participants, the attempts of a long trailer to fit into the narrow gates of a theater garage or warehouse on the Rambla. These one-way streets on both sides of the pedestrian part of the boulevard and the bulk of the trailer were so blatantly out of touch; he blocked the traffic and, puffing and puffing intensely, backed away, threatening the neighboring lamps, and then, having achieved nothing, he made the next approach and again patiently became a hero... You just had to be a virtuoso of your craft; those who managed to get their clumsy pistil into the tiny stamen right away should have been rewarded, well, at least for their outstanding male dominance in driving professionalism.
On weekends, a folk festival is held on the square in front of the Catholic Cathedral; to the sounds of a brass band, Catalans (mostly middle-aged) dance the sardana, holding hands, in a circle. Lots of concentrated, detached faces. A simple and beautiful melody. Here we were allowed to touch something unspoken.
Some useful information:
- Internet cost in resort towns- 1 euro for 15 minutes, in Barcelona - from 0.9 euros for 1 hour.
- the cost of a train ticket for 10 trips from Malgrada de Mar to Barcelona is almost 20 euros. The train takes 1.15 hours and is usually 5-10 minutes late.
- At any railway station, schedules of regional and coastal trains are issued. The fare is also indicated there.
- www.Espana.ru – a high-quality Russian-language site.
- www. Publintur.es. – tourist guide to Catalonia.
- www.barcelonaturisme.com. - in English, French, Spanish.
- www.tmb.net. - detailed information about transport in Barcelona.
- In Barcelona, Informacio offices are located in Plaza Catalunya, on central station, in Palau Robert. Maybe somewhere else.
- It is advisable to wash fruits from dry rations.
- When going to “promoted” museums, neighborhoods, villages, keep in mind that a massive influx is observed, as a rule, in the morning, before the siesta, due to excursion groups.
- even in 3-star hotels it is quite possible to replace a room that does not suit you.
You just need to submit an application. Ours was completed on the third day.
Of course, much remained unreflected. But the impetus for writing was, first of all, the desire to communicate something useful to readers.
With wishes for an eventful stay and successful hunt for impressions in Catalonia
Olga and Tatyana.
Around Catalonia by car:where to go, what to see
New Year In Europe, it’s time for fabulous Christmas travel, gifts and ski emotions. For most Russians New Year holidays turn into a continuous race for impressions, compressed into one single week. Where can you go to beat the clock? To Catalonia!
text: Vladimir Makkaveev / photo: author and Catalan Tourist Board / 01/08/2018
On the eve of the New Year 2018, in pursuit of impressions, we went to Barcelona to try to set a new record behind the wheel of a regular rental car. winter holidays and at the same time create an ideal Christmas route that will be of interest to both beginners and the most experienced travelers who have been to Catalonia more than once. There is only one condition: in a week, including flight days, you need to get acquainted with at least a dozen of the most unusual places and at the same time try to diversify the range of emotions and impressions as much as possible. Sea, mountains, skiing, oysters, cava and football... Let's go!
Provided you have an early, but more or less comfortable departure from Moscow on an Aeroflot flight at 7:50, you will land on Catalonia at half past ten European time. The arrivals area at El Prat Airport is one of the most convenient and logistically clear in Europe. Most car rental companies are located right there in the terminal building: a week of renting a car like our Audi A3 will cost 220–240 euros. Formalities for registering the rental will take about twenty minutes, another half hour will be spent on the road to the center of Barcelona, so by noon you are guaranteed to find yourself in the very heart of the Catalan capital. Parking, especially in the center, is expensive in Barcelona. If saving is not a priority, you can park right under Plaça Catalunya, or get puzzled and look for special offers on the website parclick.com, which works like hotel booking.com: if you’re lucky, you can park in the center for only 5–10 euros per day.
Having reached the “mouth of the Rambla”, we are ready to begin the hunt for the New Year’s mood. Naturally, it is best to start from the “Catalan Arbat” and the Gothic Quarter. Barcelona is the city of Antoni Gaudi and football! Let's start with these two accents.
No. 1: Palace Güell. If you have already been to Barcelona, then most likely you have managed to get acquainted with the legendary Catalan long-term construction - the Sagrada Familia, and with Park Güell, and with Gaudi’s houses on Paseo de Gracia, but in the palace built by Gaudi for the same Catalan industrialist and patron of the arts Eusebi Güell just a stone's throw from the Rambla, you probably haven't been yet... Palace Güell was under restoration for quite a long time and was recently reopened to the public, moreover, it is significantly different from other creations of Gaudí. Tickets with a specific visiting time must be purchased in advance on the palace website ( www.palauguell.cat/en, from 5 to 12 euros). Having worked up an appetite after an hour-long tour of the palace, right there on the Rambla, you can have a snack of jamon and fidua (the Catalan equivalent of paella with vermicelli) at the most famous market on the planet, “Boqueria,” where the Michelin-starred chefs themselves dine, coming here to choose fresh products.
No. 2: Christmas market. If, following our example, you find yourself in Barcelona between November 24 and December 23, be sure to visit the Santa Lucia Christmas market ( www.firadesantallucia.cat) on Cathedral Square. Here, like nowhere else, you can get into the Christmas spirit and get acquainted with local Christmas traditions and symbols such as kaganers and kaga-tio. However, even on Christmas, a trip to Barcelona will be incomplete if you do not touch another shrine of the Catalan capital, no less iconic for it today than the works of Antoni Gaudi - the legendary Barcelona football club.
No. 3: Barça. Even if there is no football on the day of your arrival in Barcelona, you can always go to the exciting FCB Experience ( www.fcbarcelona.com/tour/buy-tickets, 20–25 euros), during which you will not only explore the Barça Museum - the most visited museum in Catalonia recent years, but you will also plunge into the inner world of the club: you will visit the locker room, on the green lawn of Camp Nou and even in the tiny chapel under the stands, where Messi and Co. every time before entering the field ask the Almighty to grant Barca victory!
No. 4: Bible story. Having briefly touched the football shrines of Barça, in the evening you can once again plunge into a Christmas fairy tale. To do this, however, you will have to travel 20 km northwest of Barcelona to the village of Cobrera de Llobregat, where from early December to mid-January on weekends and holidays Catalonia's most colorful Christmas performances, Pessebre viviente ( www.pessebrecorbera.cat, 8.5–13 euros) - living biblical fragments of the Nativity of Christ recreated in detail by local residents. Moreover, Cobrera de Llobregat the next morning will be an excellent starting point for a trip north to the mountains.
No. 5: Cava and turron. First stop on the way to the Pyrenees: the town of Sant Sadurní d'Anoia: here you can get acquainted with the secrets of production and try the most famous cava on the planet Freixenet ( , tour - 8.5–12 euros). Next, our path lies to Agramunt, where the oldest factory in Spain producing turron, a traditional Christmas delicacy of the Catalans, is located. The Vicens factory has been producing turron since 1775! For a fee of 1 euro, here you can taste different varieties of turron and chocolate, and at the same time get acquainted with the secrets of their production and the local museum ( www.vicens.com/museo-del-turron-y-el-chocolate). Having thoroughly enjoyed the “Catalan halva”, we head further north - to the snowy Valley d’Aran (Valley of Valleys).
No. 6: Royal Resort. Catalonia has some excellent ski resorts. But only one of them is able to truly compete with the elite Alpine resorts: Baqueira Beret ( www.baqueira.es) in the d'Aran Valley.
From Barcelona to Baqueira it takes more than four hours, about 300 km. From Madrid - 570 km. But, despite the distance from the capitals, the resorts of the Valley of the Valleys are considered the most prestigious in the Pyrenees. The king himself comes here to ride! There are three ski stations in the valley: Baqueira, Beret and Bonaigua and 71 slopes with a total length of 120 km. Height difference - 1039 m: 2.51–1.47 km. A day ski pass costs 51.5 euros. There are several expensive 5-star hotels right at the foot of the slopes. But you can also live more simply - in apartments and small hotels in farmsteads. Or go to live in Velha - the capital of the Valley of the Valleys. It will take you 20-30 minutes to get to the ski lifts, but in the evenings it will be much more fun.
No. 7: “Caviar” Baths of Arana. In addition to shops and restaurants, Velha has Ice Palace with artificial ice. Among other entertainments in Val d'Aran, we can recommend dog sledding, a tour of national park Aiguastortes y Lago de Sant Maurici ( www.aiguestortes.info) and, of course, the Termas Baronia de Les thermal springs with their healing mineral pools (course from 21 euros), spa treatments and world-famous cosmetics made from sturgeon caviar of the Aran Valley ( www.termasbaroniadeles.com).
No. 8: Lleida. After spending two days in the d'Aran Valley - skiing and dog sledding, soaking in the thermal pools, through the Wel tunnel we get out of the Pyrenees back to the plain and set off towards the magical Priory. The first stop on the way is the ancient Catalan “capital of the foothills” Lleida. It’s worth a visit if only to see a unique theatrical tour of the Templar Castle and the Romanesque Old Altar Cathedral, which has been rising on a hill in the historical center of Lleida since the 13th century. A more majestic and spiritual structure cannot be found in all the Pyrenees!
No. 9: Guilt. After spending the night in Lleida and tasting the dishes of the Pyrenean cuisine of Catalonia, in pursuit of impressions we go further to the southwest - to Priorat ( www.turismepriorat.org) - an amazing and unique “wine Mecca of Catalonia”, where most of the elite wines are produced. Flowing from the spurs of the Pyrenees to the Gold Coast, the vineyards of Priorat bask in the hot Mediterranean sun all year round, imbuing local wines with a unique fruity aroma. Dozens of wineries are scattered along the roads of Priorat, almost each has its own tasting room. The best choice- stop by Merum Priorati in the village of Porrera ( www.merumpriorati.com).
No. 10: Olives. By the way, you can count on tasting, even while driving... After all, Priorat is not only vineyards, but also the best olive plantations in Catalonia. The main Catalan variety, arbequina, has a record low acidity, which is very important for use in cooking. Olives and the production of oil from them are a separate culture, which is better to get acquainted with in one of the most famous farms in the region, Priordei ( www.priordei.com, excursion with tasting - 20 euros).
No. 11: Siurana. The unique natural landscape of the mountainous Priorat in itself makes it an ideal region for car travel. But there is a main pearl in this asphalt necklace of the Catalan Pyrenees, which everyone who goes to Priorat must see. Its name is Siurana, or “the most photogenic village in Spain.” This tiny settlement is nestled on top of a cliff far from big roads and bustle framed by fantastic landscapes of unearthly beauty. The ruins of the old Moorish fortress offer an extraordinary view of the surrounding area of Siurana. Every photo taken from here can be considered a masterpiece, regardless of the qualifications of the photographer! However, in terms of photogenicity, our next location is not much inferior to Siurana...
No. 12: Ebre Delta. South of the Priorat cliffs, a triangular peninsula juts out into the sea, the territory of the Ebro Delta Nature Reserve ( www.ebre.com/es/parque-natural-del-delta-del-ebro/), the nature and landscapes of which are full of incomparable charm. What's missing here: vegetables and rice plantations, where not only rice is grown, but also fatty Catalan eels are caught, mussel and oyster farming, salt marshes, sand dunes, huge lagoons with lush vegetation and hundreds of pink flamingos. In the oyster and mussel farm "Musklarium" ( musclarium.com, tour with tasting - 25 euros) you can learn how mussels and oysters are grown, and here on a picturesque terrace in the middle of the sea you can taste the freshest seafood. Those who prefer a heartier meal can dine at the l’Estany Casa de Fusta restaurant ( restaurantcasadefusta.com): get acquainted with local rice growing traditions and taste exotic gifts of the river and sea - paella with eel and duck, typical for these places, or sea anemones...
After such a delicious lunch, the remaining 170 km to El Prat Airport along the Gold Coast Expressway will seem like a matter of moments. And then - the plane into the cold New Year's Russia and nostalgia for our “Catalan dozen”, which fit into this delightful week in Catalonia.
Travel calculator |
|
| Air travel, R. | from 13 200 |
| Hotel/apartment(double room), € | from 80 |
| Average bill in a restaurant € | 30 |
| Visa, € | 35 |
| Audi A3 car(weekly rental), € | from 220 |
| Total travel time h | 13:16 |
| Route length, km | 896 |
| Toll roads, € | 21,6 |
| Average fuel consumption, l/100 km | 12,2 |
| Fuel cost(95/DT), €/l | 1,23/1,13 |
| Max. permitted speed, km/h | 120 |
| Max. permissible alcohol level, ppm | up to 0.5 |
Traveling through Catalonia in search of the atmosphere of the Middle Ages. The program and route of the trip to the provincial Catalan towns: Besalu, Castellfollit de la Roca, Olot, Rupit, as well as Barcelona and Girona.
My journey is a journey to Catalonia, or more precisely, to Medieval Spain. And this will not be the Gothic quarter of Barcelona, I will plunge into the mysterious medieval atmosphere of Spain, walking through small provincial cities Catalonia, which can rightfully be called museums under open air. Some have a population of about 400 people. Fortresses, ancient castles, the churches date back to the 7th-10th centuries and we can admire them, and in medieval buildings people are still living! Marvelous!
I would like to note that this is not my first trip to Spain, to Catalonia, but my third, and I visited all the must-sees, so my choice fell on the outback of Catalonia.
When I travel, I usually make wishes in unusual beautiful places(I’m sure this is the tradition of all travelers!), for example, I throw a coin, tie a ribbon, etc. And wishes come true! So, I have three wishes and three beautiful ones ancient cities in the heart of Europe, where I will wish for them! And my wishes have no chance of not coming true!
Flight
So, the journey of three wishes into the heart of medieval provincial Europe will begin with an arrival in a wonderful one, tickets to which will be booked, as usual, through Skyscanner. Direct flight Moscow - Barcelona - Moscow. Yes, there are cheaper tickets with transfers, but I still need to fly to Moscow from my native Ufa, one transfer in Moscow will be more than enough for me. In addition, the flight Ufa - Barcelona - Ufa does not fit into the budget of 30,000 rubles.
The site gives the most cheap option Spanish low-cost airline Vueling. But when I start booking, several “buts” appear, that’s why it’s a low-cost airline: firstly, my luggage is more than 10 kg, I’ll have to pay extra; secondly, a commission is charged for the fact that I will pay for the ticket with a VISA card. In the end, it's not that cheap. Below we see the results of IBERIA airline, whose tickets are about 2000 rubles more expensive, we start booking a ticket, the price does not change and does not depend on which card you pay for, and baggage up to 23 kg is included in the ticket price, and I have an IBERIA savings card, albeit insignificant, but I will have a discount, and the flight is operated by the same Vueling. As a result, I save about 3,000 rubles (information and prices as of May 16, 2017).
Housing
From here I will go to the city of Lloret de Mar (in Russian you can often see Lloret de Mar), my Spanish friend will pick me up, his name is Victor, he lives there and I will stay with him. Victor kindly agreed to host me; he, as a long-time traveler, enjoys receiving guests from all over the world at his home, just as he travels himself, staying in the homes of his many international friends around the world. The issue of housing has been removed from the budget.
Trip plan
- Besalu - Castellfollit de la Roca - Olot - Rupit. We will travel around all these cities by car in one day. Let's leave early and enjoy the views mountain landscapes of these towns in the morning rays. I'll make my three wishes. But let’s leave Rupit, the city of witches, for last, and try to catch it at dusk...
- One Monday (on Mondays) I will go to Barcelona for walking On one day. I really love Mount Tibidabo, I’ll look there first. Then, of course, the classics: Rambla, Gothic Quarter, Boqueria. And a little gastronomic journey.
- And the mysterious and mystical Girona deserves special attention. I'll see the cathedral with the gargoyle witch, walk along the old streets in search of "bats", eat a delicious burger in the main square.
Besalu, Castellfollit de la Roca, Olot, Rupit
All these ancient medieval cities are located on volcanoes, they say that they are still active and could erupt at any moment. Churches were built on the volcanoes themselves or at their base; people believed that this would warn against eruptions.
Besalu. Medieval city, which can be reached through an ancient picturesque bridge. The bridge over which rulers with their retinue once rode into the city on horses, whose hooves clattered loudly on this very paving stone. This is where my first wish will be made. This bridge flashes once in the film "Perfume" - and this is the third place from this film that I will see; the first was the Olympic village in Barcelona, where the last erotic scene of the film was filmed, the second was a neighborhood in Girona with colorful houses. The city itself is a gray stone color, exactly like in films about the Middle Ages. Open-air museum.
Here we will wander through the narrow streets, visit the miniature museum, admire the churches and buildings, the famous “Venetian chairs” that are on the walls of the houses, and relax in the shade of the orange trees on Freedom Square.
Castellfollit de la Roca is a city on a rock. The houses are right on the cliff! And, for a minute, for active volcano! Locals surpassed the inhabitants of Naples! What's there at the foot, right on an active volcano on a cliff!
We will climb the rock, which is formed by solidified lava of the volcano, admire the views from the very high point.
Olot. It is called the city of volcanoes. And the most famous volcano here is the Montsakopa volcano with a pronounced crater. We will climb it and go down into the crater. My second wish will be made here. On the top or in the crater, I don't know yet.
The city itself has a lot of museums for lovers of history and antiquity. I only want to visit one - the Volcano Museum, where all the mountains and volcanoes in the surrounding area are represented. We'll walk the streets, look into antique shops, and admire the ancient buildings.
Rupit. And so from the city of volcanoes we moved to the city of witches. It was named that way because witches moved here while hiding from the Inquisition. The city is hidden in the fog, it is inconspicuous from afar, and it is not easy to get to it. There are legends that when night fell, brooms with witches sitting on them flew out of the chimneys, flew to neighboring settlements and then returned again. But the Great Inquisition still got to these places (if it weren’t the Inquisition) and restored order. According to another legend, witches were brought here for execution; they believed that in this place any evil spirits lose their power. This is definitely a mystical city, shrouded in secrets and legends, and one would like to walk around it at dusk to feel the gloom of the city of witches. And here my third wish will be made.
Ancient medieval ancient cities fascinate with their colorful urban landscapes: narrow streets, churches, buildings, structures, fortresses, castles, bridges. The photographs should look like postcards that can be safely printed and given as a souvenir from a trip to medieval Catalonia. And of course, in such amazing places you need to make your wishes, and they will definitely come true!
Girona
I will definitely devote one day to Girona, the Catalan capital of secrets and mysteries. Just like in Barcelona, I will be here for the third time, and each time I learn Interesting Facts about the city and want to check them out. For example, a petrified witch - a drain - a gargoyle on the walls of the main cathedral. Legend has it that there was an old woman who was against the construction of the temple and during the construction of the cathedral threw stones at it, for which she was turned to stone as punishment. According to another legend, the witch was petrified at dawn, without having time to hide.
There are also legends that Girona is a city of vampires. Yes, yes, exactly Girona, where, according to legend, entire dynasties of vampires lived. On some houses you can see ancient coats of arms depicting bats - symbols of vampires. It would be interesting to know from these coats of arms on houses what percentage of the population was occupied by vampires...
There is also a metal bridge in Girona, which was designed by Eiffel, in the style of the tower of the same name in Paris. The bridge does not look particularly beautiful, I would say, very ordinary. The metal fences are red in color, nothing special. Nevertheless, this is Eiffel. The bridge is a place for making wishes and photographing lovers (similar to the Parisian theme of photo couples).
There is an excellent restaurant with delicious burgers in the main square in Girona. We'll have dinner there. A Spanish friend of mine sometimes makes a special trip from Lloret de Mar to Girona to this restaurant for dinner. The restaurant is not cheap, but the burgers served here are divine.
After dinner, we will most likely visit one bar, then another, then another - in the best Spanish tradition of spending bar nights without staying in one bar for more than one drink.
Barcelona
I repeat, this is my third trip, I have already seen many places, and I will return to some. For example, I really love the views of Mount Tibidabo, the highest point in Barcelona, the whole city is in full view. The beautiful Temple of the Sacred Heart. I read that in some of the images there are people in modern clothes, I’ll have to check it out. I’ll come here early in the morning to enjoy the panorama while there are no crowds of tourists.
Then I'll go to La Rambla. This is where mine will begin. The first will be a place where they sell the most delicious tapas 100 montaditos. They are varied there, for every taste and color, usually washed down with beer.
Next stop will be Bobo Pulpin in the Gothic Quarter. What sets this place apart is that they serve dishes that are somehow related to octopuses. For example, I want to try a sandwich made from black octopus ink bread. Exactly black! Not as black as, for example, our Borodino bread, but black as coal.
Next, I will go to the Boqueria market to discover new gastronomic emotions. Every time I come here, I find something new. Be sure to eat berries, fruits, cheeses and jamon. Some sellers may give you something to try for free, as long as you smile and be friendly. In any case, I will not return hungry from Barcelona.
Conclusion
I described the main points of my journey. I chose places not trodden by tourists, in very popular destination among tourists - Catalonia. I chose the most unusual places for making wishes. And my desire, as always, is to return to picturesque Spain, and to return here again and again and discover it for myself in a new way every time!
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