The main peaks of the Caucasus. Caucasus Mountains. Relief, climate of the Caucasus Mountains. Mountain system, location of the Caucasus mountains
There is a beautiful mountain system on our planet. It is located on, or to be more precise, between two seas - the Caspian and Black. It bears the proud name - the Caucasus Mountains. It has coordinates: 42°30′ north latitude and 45°00′ east longitude. The length of the mountain system is more than one thousand kilometers. Territorially refers to six countries: Russia and states Caucasus region: Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, etc.
It is still not clearly stated which part of the continent the Caucasus Mountains belong to. Elbrus and Mont Blanc are fighting for the title. The latter is located in the Alps. Geographical location The plan is easy to describe. And this article will help with this.
Borders
During times Ancient Greece it was the Caucasus and the Bosphorus that separated the 2 continents. But the world map was constantly changing, peoples migrated. In the Middle Ages, the Don River was considered the border. Much later, in the 17th century, a Swedish geographer led it through the Urals, down the river. Embe to the Caspian Sea. His idea was supported by scientists of the time and the Russian Tsar. According to this definition, mountains belong to Asia. On the other hand, the Great Encyclopedia of Larousse denotes the border running south of Kazbek and Elbrus. Thus, both mountains are in Europe.
It is somewhat difficult to describe the geographical position of the Caucasus Mountains as accurately as possible. Opinions regarding territorial affiliation changed solely for political reasons. Europe was singled out as a special part of the world, linking this with the level of development of civilization. The border between the continents gradually moved east. She became a moving line.
Some scientists, noting differences in geological structure massif, they propose to draw the border along the main ridge of the Greater Caucasus. And this is not surprising. mountains allows it. Its northern slope will belong to Europe, and its southern slope will belong to Asia. This issue is being actively discussed by scientists from all six states. Geographers of Azerbaijan and Armenia believe that the Caucasus belongs to Asia, and Georgian scientists believe that it belongs to Europe. Many well-known authoritative people believe that the entire massif belongs to Asia, so Elbrus will not be considered the highest point in Europe for a long time.
System composition
This massif consists of 2 mountain systems: Small and Greater Caucasus. Often the latter is presented as a single ridge, but this is not so. And if you study the geographical position of the Caucasus Mountains on the map, you will notice that it is not one of those. The Greater Caucasus stretches for more than a kilometer from Anapa and Taman Peninsula almost all the way to Baku. Conventionally, it consists of the following parts: Western, Eastern and Central Caucasus. The first zone extends from the Black Sea to Elbrus, the middle one - from the highest peak to Kazbek, the last - from Kazbek to the Caspian Sea.
The western chains originate from the Taman Peninsula. And at first they look more like hills. However, the further east you go, the higher they become. Their peaks are covered with snow and glaciers. The ranges of Dagestan are located in the east of the Greater Caucasus. These are complex systems with river valleys forming canyons. About 1.5 thousand sq. km of the Greater Caucasus is covered with glaciers. Most of them are in central region. The Lesser Caucasus includes nine ranges: Adzhar-Imereti, Karabakh, Bazum and others. The highest of them, located in the middle and eastern parts, are Murov-Dag, Pambaksky, etc.
Climate
Analyzing the geographical position of the Caucasus Mountains, we see that they are located on the border of two climatic zones - subtropical and temperate. Transcaucasia belongs to the subtropics. The rest of the territory belongs to the temperate climate zone. The North Caucasus is a warm region. Summer there lasts almost 5 months, and winter never drops below -6 °C. It is short-lived - 2-3 months. In high mountain areas the climate is different. There it is influenced by the Atlantic and Mediterranean, so the weather is wetter.
Due to the complex terrain in the Caucasus, there are many zones that differ from each other. This climate allows the cultivation of citrus fruits, tea, cotton and other exotic crops that suit the temperate nature weather conditions. The geographical position of the Caucasus Mountains largely influences the formation temperature regime in nearby areas.
Himalayas and Caucasus Mountains
Often at school, students are asked to compare the geographical position of the Himalayas and Iz, the similarity is only in one thing: both systems are located in Eurasia. But they have many differences:
- The Caucasus Mountains are located in the Himalayas, but they belong only to Asia.
- The average height of the Caucasus Mountains is 4 thousand m, the Himalayas - 5 thousand m.
- Also, these mountain systems are located in different climatic zones. The Himalayas are mostly in the subequatorial, less - in the tropics, and the Caucasus - in the subtropical and temperate.
As you can see, these two systems are not identical. The geographical position of the Caucasus Mountains and the Himalayas is similar in some respects, but not in others. But both systems are quite large, beautiful, and amazing.
Russia is a huge country. It is not surprising that it contains all the terrain that is found in nature. Among the plains and steppes they occupy a special place mountain ranges and peaks. They attract travelers and researchers, scientists and tourists, archaeologists and climbers. What mountains are there in Russia? What should you pay attention to?
Origin
Regions mountainous areas are formed as a result of complex processes. Tectonic crushing, faulting and faulting of rocks occur in the earth's crust. They are carried out continuously during the entire existence of the planet, in ancient time eras such as the Paleozoic, Mesozoic or Cenozoic. Those who are located in the Far East, Kamchatka and the Kuril Islands are considered young. These areas often experience seismic activity and volcanic eruptions.
In the European part of Russia there is a large plain, which has a geographical border in the east in the form. These are unique natural sculptures that evoke national pride.
Interesting! Only in the Urals there is nature reserve, protecting mineralogy. The Ilmensky place has a huge variety of minerals, unique and amazing in their structure and structure.
There are many tourist centers in the Urals, with ski resorts located on them. Climbers conquer these majestic heights.
Options for the Russian mountains
- Baikal region and Transbaikalia;
- Altai;
- Sayan Mountains;
- Verkhoyansky and Stanovoy ridges;
- Chersky ridge.
Each of the areas is interesting and beautiful, the names of the mountains in their composition are unique and owe their origin to the peoples who inhabit the surrounding territories. These regions attract harsh conditions, tests for body and spirit. Altai is one of the most popular destinations for tourists. But the Chersky ridge is on the map, but has been little studied so far, but experts suggest that it will also become an attractive place for travelers.
Diversity of territories
The Far East is a region consisting primarily of mountainous terrain. The southern territorial part consists of medium and low ones, but in the north there are high ridges. Highest point Far East – Klyuchevskaya Sopka is a volcano 4750 m high.
The mountains in this region are constantly growing; they are located at the junction of plates that are in motion, which is why there are many volcanoes. In addition to them, there is a unique object for which it is worth going to Kamchatka - the Valley of Geysers.
Important! Sikhote-Alin, located in the Primorye region, is part of world heritage. This system is rich not only in the diversity of flora and fauna. This point of Russia on the map is the homeland of the Far Eastern leopard and Amur tiger.
Caucasus
The Caucasus deserves a separate description. This massif extends from the Black to the Caspian, its length is more than 1200 km. Caucasus ridge It is divided into the Northern part and Transcaucasia.
The height of the Caucasus Mountains varies along the entire length of the ridge. It is he who has the highest point in the whole country and Europe– this is Elbrus. The mountain was formed as a result of a volcanic eruption. It has an altitude of 5600 m above sea level. Elbrus is located in such a place that it can be seen from all sides. Travelers approached it back in the early 19th century. At its peak, the temperature does not rise above -14 degrees. Snow falls on the mountain constantly, which makes its snow cap ideal. This peak feeds the two largest ones - Kuban and Terek.
The Greater Caucasus contains the three highest mountains in Russia:
- Elbrus;
- Dykhtau;
- Kazbek.
Interesting! In addition to the Caucasus Mountains, Kamchatka and Altai are famous large hills, among them: Klyuchevskaya Sopka, Belukha, Ichinskaya Sopka.
10 high mountains
A little more detail about each of the largest hills:
- It’s already clear about Elbrus, this inactive volcano, included in national park. Its height is 5642 meters.
- Dykhtau ranks second in size among mountain peaks countries. This mountain, part of the Caucasus Range, rises to 5200 m. The ascent to this peak was first carried out only in 1888.
- The country's third largest mountain is located on the border of Russia and Georgia. This is Pushkin Peak. It rises near Dykhtau in the center of the Caucasus ridge. Its conquest took place in 1961. It is interesting that this ascent was made not by professionals, but by football players of the Spartak club. The height of the peak is 5100 meters.
- A little lower, namely a hundred meters, rises Kazbek. It is also related to the Greater Caucasus, located in its lateral part in the Khokh mountain range. Three London climbers conquered this peak back in the mid-19th century.
- Near the border of Georgia and Kabardino-Balkaria is the fifth largest highest point largest in Russia under the name Gestola. At its top, glaciers have accumulated that date back to the Paleozoic era. The most famous of them is Adishi.
- Sixth in the top ten is the peak of Shota Rustaveli. Although the name on the map of the peak is of a famous person of Georgian origin, it still refers to the Russian part of the Caucasus. The peak is on the border, no wonder both countries claim rights to it. The mountain has 4895 meters.
- A little lower (4780 meters) is Mount Jimara. It is located in Alanya, near the border of Russia and Georgia. Again, this is part of the Greater Caucasus.
- In ninth place is Mount Saukhoh, again from the Greater Caucasus, located in North Ossetia. The height of the peak is 4636 meters. It refers to unconquered peaks, as well as Kukurtli-Kolbashi. This mountain completes the list of the ten largest peaks in Russia, its height is 4324 meters.
Interesting! So far no one has conquered the mountain formations located in 8th, 9th and 10th places on the list. This may prompt travelers to new exploits.
Lowest mountains
In addition to the highest mountain peaks, it is interesting to know the rating of the lowest ones. Such a concept as the lowest mountain is very difficult. It turns out that it is not so easy to name it. Only what is higher can be called mountains
The Caucasus Mountains are located on the isthmus between the Caspian and Black Seas. The Caucasus is separated from the East European Plain by the Kuma-Manych depression. The territory of the Caucasus can be divided into several parts: Ciscaucasia, Greater Caucasus and Transcaucasia. On the territory Russian Federation are located only Ciscaucasia and northern part Greater Caucasus. The last two parts together are called the North Caucasus. However, for Russia this part of the territory is the southernmost. Here, along the crest of the Main Ridge, lies the state border of the Russian Federation, beyond which lie Georgia and Azerbaijan. The entire system of the Caucasus ridge occupies an area of approximately 2600 m2, with its northern slope occupying about 1450 m2, while the southern slope is only about 1150 m2.
The North Caucasus Mountains are relatively young. Their relief was created by different tectonic structures. In the southern part there are folded block mountains and foothills of the Greater Caucasus. They were formed when deep trough zones were filled with sedimentary and volcanic rocks, which later underwent folding. Tectonic processes here were accompanied by significant bends, stretches, ruptures and fractures of the earth's layers. As a result, large amounts of magma poured onto the surface (this led to the formation of significant ore deposits). The uplifts that occurred here in the Neogene and Quaternary periods led to the elevation of the surface and the type of relief that exists today. The rise of the central part of the Greater Caucasus was accompanied by the subsidence of strata along the edges of the resulting ridge. Thus, the Terek-Caspian trough was formed in the east, and the Indal-Kuban trough in the west.
The Greater Caucasus is often presented as a single ridge. In fact, this is a whole system of various ridges, which can be divided into several parts. The Western Caucasus is located from Black Sea coast to Mount Elbrus, then (from Elbrus to Kazbek) the Central Caucasus follows, and east of Kazbek to the Caspian Sea - the Eastern Caucasus. In addition, in the longitudinal direction two ridges can be distinguished: Vodorazdelny (sometimes called the main one) and Bokovaya. On the northern slope of the Caucasus there are the Skalisty and Pastbishchny ridges, as well as the Black Mountains. They were formed as a result of interlayering of layers composed of sedimentary rocks of different hardness. One slope of the ridge here is gentle, while the other ends quite abruptly. As you move away from the axial zone, the height of the mountain ranges decreases.
The chain of the Western Caucasus begins at the Taman Peninsula. At the very beginning, it’s more likely not even mountains, but hills. They begin to rise to the east. The highest parts of the North Caucasus are covered with snow caps and glaciers. The highest peaks of the Western Caucasus are Mount Fisht (2870 meters) and Oshten (2810 meters). The highest part of the Greater Caucasus mountain system is the Central Caucasus. Even some passes at this point reach a height of 3 thousand meters, and the lowest of them (Krestovy) lies at an altitude of 2380 meters. The highest peaks of the Caucasus are also located here. For example, the height of Mount Kazbek is 5033 meters, and the two-headed extinct volcano Elbrus is actually the highest peak in Russia.
The relief here is highly dissected: sharp ridges, steep slopes and rocky peaks predominate. Eastern part The Greater Caucasus consists mainly of the numerous ridges of Dagestan (translated, the name of this region means “mountainous country”). There are complex branching ridges with steep slopes and deep canyon-like river valleys. However, the height of the peaks here is less than in the central part of the mountain system, but they still exceed a height of 4 thousand meters. The rise of the Caucasus Mountains continues in our time. Quite frequent earthquakes in this region of Russia are associated with this. To the north of the Central Caucasus, where the magma rising through cracks did not spill out to the surface, low, so-called island mountains formed. The largest of them are Beshtau (1400 meters) and Mashuk (993 meters). At their base there are numerous springs of mineral waters.
The so-called Ciscaucasia is occupied by the Kuban and Terek-Kuma lowlands. They are separated from each other by the Stavropol Upland, whose height is 700-800 meters. The Stavropol Upland is dissected by wide and deeply incised valleys, gullies and ravines. At the base of this area lies a young slab. Its structure consists of Neogene formations, covered with limestone deposits - loess and loess-like loams, and in the eastern part also marine sediments of the Quaternary period. The climate in this area is quite favorable. Quite high mountains serve as a good barrier to cold air penetrating here. The proximity of the long cooling sea also has an effect. The Greater Caucasus is the border between two climatic zones– subtropical and temperate. On Russian territory The climate is still moderate, but the above factors contribute to fairly high temperatures.
Caucasus Mountains As a result, winters in the Ciscaucasia are quite warm ( average temperature in January it is about -5°C). This is facilitated by coming from outside Atlantic Ocean warm air masses. On the Black Sea coast, temperatures rarely drop below zero (the average January temperature is 3°C). In mountainous areas the temperature is naturally lower. Thus, the average temperature on the plain in summer is about 25°C, and in the upper reaches of the mountains - 0°C. Precipitation falls into this area mainly due to cyclones arriving from the west, as a result of which its amount gradually decreases to the east.
Most precipitation falls on the southwestern slopes of the Greater Caucasus. Their number on the Kuban Plain is approximately 7 times lower. Glaciation has developed in the mountains of the North Caucasus, the area of which ranks first among all regions of Russia. The rivers flowing here are fed by water formed by the melting of glaciers. The largest Caucasian rivers are the Kuban and Terek, as well as their numerous tributaries. Mountain rivers, as usual, are fast-flowing, and in their lower reaches there are wetlands overgrown with reeds and reeds.
In clear weather the top of the mountain Kezgen(4011 m) provides a unique opportunity to observe from the outside the rich and cheerful picture of the Central Caucasus. Almost all major and minor mountain ranges of the Main Caucasus Range, regions are visible Tyutus, Adyrsu, Chegema, Bezengi, Adilsu, Yusengi and upper reaches Baksan Gorge, and over the passes and less high peaks of the GKH distant mountain vistas open up Svaneti. On the opposite side of the horizon, the Caucasian monarch Elbrus shows a strictly end-to-end symmetrical view of its Eastern peak.
The source material for this publication is photographs taken from the top of the mountain. Kezgen in July 2007 and July 2009. They formed the basis two basic panoramas.
PANORAMA-1:– evening panorama (July 2007). Covers the GKH sector from the Bezengi wall to Chatyn, as well as the areas of the spurs of the Main Ridge descending towards the Russian side - Chegem, Adyrsu and Adylsu.
PANORAMA-2:– morning panorama (July 2009). Partially covering Panorama-1, it represents the GKH sector from the wall of Bezengi to Azau, the Russian spurs of the GKH - Adyrsu, Adylsu, Yusengi, Kogutai and Cheget, the Azau-Elbrus jumper, as well as the South-Eastern (with the Terskolak peak) and Eastern (with the Irikchat peak ) spurs of Elbrus.
The two main panoramas are accompanied by additional PANORAMA-3(July 2007). It gives a view of the spurs East Elbrus in the Subashi-Kyrtyk-Mukal sector from the Russian Officers Pass (which is near the Kezgen peak 150 m below it).
Together these three panoramas cover the entire viewing circle.
Camera- Nikon 8800.
Read more about Kezgen peak.
Kezgen is located in the highest of the eastern spurs of Elbrus - the one that stretches from the peak hanging over its ice fields Chatkara(3898 m) to the villages of Elbrus and Neutrino in the Baksan Valley. The spur has a number of left branches towards the Subashi, Kyrtyk and Syltransu rivers, while it itself borders on the left side the valley of the Irikchat River and - after its confluence with Irik - the Irik Valley. The main peak in this spur is Irikchat(4054 m), slightly inferior to it Subashi(3968 m) in the northwest and the equally high Kezgen duo - Soviet warrior(4011 m) in the southeast.
The climb to Kezgen is beautiful, pleasant and easy. The beginning of the movement towards Kezgen, the Soviet Warrior and Irikchat is common - from the floodplain of the Irikchat River along a grassy slope, along a path clearly visible from afar. Then the paths diverge, the Kezgen trail takes to the right. Upon reaching the scree slopes, it gets lost on the upper traverses, but with sufficient visibility, you can’t miss the takeoff opening on the left to the Russian Officers Pass (tourist 1B). The way out from the pass saddle to the summit (along the north-eastern ridge) is also simple - 1B climbing path. (Kezgen was sometimes visited by climbers as part of the Kezgen - Soviet Warrior traverse, which was known in the Adylsu mountain camps as a kind of exile.)
Kezgen is the closest four-thousander north of Baksan; all peaks closer to the river are significantly lower. This advantageous feature of its location and the simplicity of the route make Kezgen an excellent viewing point.
PANORAMAS, DESIGNATIONS, DECODING.
PANORAMA-1 (more than 800 Kb, 8682 x 850 pixels) in its original form:
PANORAMA-1 with peaks, passes, glaciers and gorges marked on it:
PANORAMA-2 (more than 1.2 MB, 10364 x 1200 pixels) in its original form:
PANORAMA-2 with peaks, passes, glaciers and gorges marked on it:
Additional PANORAMA-3 - view to the northeast into the valley of the Mukal glacier:
Accepted notations and general principles.
Marked on the panorama:
mountain peaks- colored circles,
passes- crosses,
glaciers- rectangles,
gorges (river valleys)– double wave.
Passes, glaciers and gorges are numbered through, from right to left.
All signs glaciers And gorges blue. Signs passes And peaks painted in different colors, depending on their belonging to a particular mountain region.
The color differentiation of the icons helps to more clearly visualize and trace the location of the various mountain regions visible in the panorama, especially where they overlap.
Colors used:
– thick green: for objects outside the State border of the Russian Federation,
- red: for the peaks and passes of the GKH,
– light purple: for the peaks of the Bezengi region outside the GKH,
- orange: for peaks and passes in the Adyrsu ridge,
– pure yellow: for peaks and passes in the Adylsu ridge,
– dirty yellow: for peaks and passes in the Yusengi ridge,
– dark purple: for peaks and passes in the Kogutai spur of Donguzorun,
– pale green: for the peaks and passes of the South-Eastern spur of Elbrus,
– pale plum: for the peaks and passes of the Elbrus-Azau jumper,
– light brown: for the peaks and passes of the ridge in the upper reaches of Irik and Irikchat,
- white: for the peaks and passes of the Eastern spur of Elbrus,
– blue: for peaks and passes in the short spurs of the GKH (summit circles in a red rim), as well as in the spurs of the Adyrsu ridges (summit circles in an orange rim) and Adylsu (summit circles in a yellow rim).
1. MOUNTAINS
Note. The heights of the peaks indicated below in some cases differ from those given in the “Classification of routes to mountain peaks” (hereinafter "Classifier"). These heights are given mainly from General Staff maps (hereinafter "General Staff"), constructed based on the results of methodically homogeneous measurements within the framework of a unified topographic program of Soviet times. The General Staff provides altitude data with an accuracy of 0.1 meters, but it should, of course, be borne in mind that such enviable accuracy could only claim to cover random measurement errors, and not systematic errors of the measurement technique itself.
1.1. PEAKS LOCATED IN GEORGIA
1 – Tetnuld, 4853 m
2 – Svetgar, 4117 m
3 – Asmashi, 4082 m
4 – Marianna (Maryanna), 3584 m
5 – Lekzyr (Dzhantugansky), 3890 m
6 – Chatyn Main, 4412 m
7 – Ushba North, 4694 m
8 – Ushba South, 4710 m
9 – Cherinda, 3579 m
10 – Dolra, 3832 m
11 – Shtavleri, 3994 m
1.2. PEAKS OF THE MAIN CAUCASIAN RIDGE (GKR)
1 - Bezengi Wall (details on an enlarged fragment of the panorama)
2 - Gestola, 4860 m
3 – Lyalver, 4366 m
4 - Tichtengen, 4618 m
5 - Bodorku, 4233 m
6 - Bashiltau, 4257 m
7 – Sarykol, 4058 m
8 - Ullutau massif, 4277 m
9 - Latsga, 3976 m
10 – Chegettau, 4049 m
11 - Aristov rocks (3619 m - Kaluga peak)
12 – Dzhantugan, 4012 m
13 – Bashkara, 4162 m
14 – Ullukara, 4302 m
15 - Free Spain, 4200 m
16 – Bzhedukh, 4280 m
17 - Eastern Caucasus, 4163 m
18 - Shchurovsky, 4277 m
19 - Chatyn West, 4347
20 – Ushba Malaya, 4254 m
21 - Shhelda Eastern, 4368 m
22 – Shhelda Central, 4238 m
23 – Aristov (Shkhelda 3rd Western), 4229
24 – Shkhelda 2nd Western, 4233 m
25 – Shhelda Western, 3976 m
26 – Trade unions, 3957 m
27 – Sportsman, 3961 m
28 – Shkhelda Malaya, 4012 m
29 – Akhsu, 3916 m
30 – Yusengi Uzlovaya, 3846 m
31 – Gogutai, 3801 m
32 – Donguzorun East, 4442 m
33 – Donguzorun Main, 4454 m
34 – Donguzorun Western, 4429 m
35 – Nakratau, 4269 m
36 – Chiper, 3785 m
37 – Ciperazau, 3512 m
Peaks in the short spurs of the GKH
1 - Germogenov, 3993 m
2 - Chegetkara, 3667 m
3 - Main Caucasus, 4109 m
4 - Western Caucasus, 4034 m
5 - Donguzorun Maly, 3769 m
6 - Cheget, 3461 m
1.3. THE TOP OF THE BEZENGI DISTRICT
1 - Dykhtau, 5205 m (5204.7 according to the General Staff map, 5204 according to the Classifier and Lyapin’s scheme)
2 - Koshtantau, 5152 m (5152.4 according to the General Staff map, 5150 according to the Classifier, 5152 according to Lyapin’s scheme)
3 - Ulluauz, 4682 m (4681.6 according to the General Staff map, 4675 according to the Classifier, 4676 according to Lyapin’s map)
4 - I thought, 4677 m (4676.6 according to the General Staff map, 4557 according to the Classifier, 4681 according to Lyapin’s scheme)
1.4. TOP OF THE ADYRSU DISTRICT
1 - Adyrsubashi, 4370 m (4346)
2 - Orubashi, 4369 m (4259)
3 - Yunomkara, 4226 m
4 - Kichkidar, 4360 m (4269)
5 - Dzhailyk, 4533 m (4424)
From the Dzhailyk massif, the Adyrsu ridge is divided into two branches:
(a) northwestern branch,
(b) northeast branch.
Peaks of the northwestern branch of the Adyrsu ridge:
6a – Tyutyubashi, 4460 m (4404)
7a – Sullukol, 4259 m (4251)
8a - Steel, 3985 m
Peaks of the northeastern branch of the Adyrsu ridge:
6b – Kenchat, 4142 m
7b – Orel, 4056 m (4064)
8b – Kayarta, 4082 m (4121)
9b – Kilar, 4000 m (4087)
10b – Sakashil, 4054 m (4149)
Peaks in the spurs of the Adyrsu ridge:
from Adyrsubashi
a - Khimik, 4087 m
b - Moskovsky Komsomolets, 3925 m
c - Triangle, 3830 m
From Dzhailyk
d - Chegem, 4351 m
From Tyutyubashi
e - Kullumkol, 4055 m (4141)
f - Theremin, 3950 m (3921)
From Kilar
g - Adzhikol (Adzhikolbashi, Adzhikolchatbashi), 3848 m (4126).
1.5. TOP OF THE ADILSU DISTRICT
(in parentheses are heights according to Lyapin’s scheme, if there is a difference)
1 – Kurmychi, 4045 m
2 – Andyrchi Uzlovaya, 3872 m
3 – Andyrtau (Andyrchi), 3937 m
4 – MPR (peaks of the Mongolian People's Republic): Northeastern 3830 m (3838), Central 3830 m (3849), Southwestern 3810 m (3870).
Peaks in the spurs of the Adylsu ridge towards the Adyrsu valley:
1.6. PEAKS OF THE YUSENGI RIDGE
1 - Yusengi, 3870 m
2 - Yusengi North, 3421 m. According to tradition, apparently dating back to the General Staff map, the names of these two peaks are confused with each other
1.7. THE TOP OF THE KOGUTAI STORGE OF DONGUZORUN
1 - Interkosmos, 3731 m
2 - Maly Kogutai, 3732 m
3 - Big Kogutai, 3819 m
4 - Baksan, 3545 m
5 - Kahiani (Donguzorungitchechatbashi), 3367 m
6 - Dining room, 3206 m.
1.8 PEAKS IN THE JUMPER BETWEEN GKKH AND ELBRUS
1 - Azaubashi, 3695 m
2 - Ullukambashi, 3762 m
1.9 PEAKS OF THE SOUTHEASTERN ELBRUSS Spur
1 - Terskol, 3721 m
2 - Terskolak, 3790 m
3 - Sarykolbashi, 3776 m
4 - Artykkaya, 3584 m
5 - Tegeneklibashi, 3502 m
1.10 TOP OF THE RIDGE IN THE UPPER REACH OF THE IRIKA AND IRIKCHATA GORVES
1 - Achkeryakolbashi (Askerkolbashi), 3928 m
2 - Red Hill, 3730 m
1.11 THE TOP OF THE EASTERN Spur of Elbrus
1 - Irikchat Western, 4046 m
2 - Irikchat Central, 4030 m
3 - Irikchat East, 4020 m
4 - Soviet warrior, 4012 m
1.12 PEAKS IN THE NORTHEAST (IN THE SIDE OF THE MUKAL GLACIER)
Shown separately on PANORAMA-3
Islamchat (3680 m)
Shukambashi (3631 m)
Jaurgen (3777 m)
Suaryk (3712 m)
Kyrtyk (3571 m)
Mukal (3899 m)
2. PASSES
1 – Khunaly Yuzh, 2B - connects the valleys of Khunalychat (tributary of the Sakashilsu) and Kayarty (Kayarta lake)
2 – Kayarta Zap, 2A - between the peaks of Kilar and Adzhikol
3 – Kayarta, 1B - between the peaks of Kayarta and Kilar
4 – Sternberg, 2A - between the peaks of Orelu and Kayarta
5 – Kilar, 1B - between the peaks of Kenchat and Orel
6 – Vodopadny, 1B - in the northern spur of Peak Steel
7 – Sullukol, 1B - in the western spur of Peak Steel
8 – Spartakiada, 2A* - between the Tyutyubashi massif and the top of the Spartakiada
9 – Kullumkol, 1B - between the Tyutyubashi massif and the Kullumkol peak
10 – Tyutyu-Dzhailyk, 3A - between the peak of Dzhailyk and the Tyutyubashi massif
11 – Chegemsky, 2B - in the shoulder of the city of Kichkidar
12 – Kichkidar, 2B - between the peaks of Yunomkara and Kichkidar
13 – Freshfield, 2B - between the peaks of Orubashi and Yunomkar
14 – Golubeva, 2A - between the peaks of Adyrsubashi and Orubashi
15 – Granatovy, 1A - in the northern spur of the VMF peak
16 – Kurmy, 1A - in the northern spur of the Navy peak
17 – Dzhalovchat, 1B - between the peaks of Fizkulturnika and VMF
18 – Mestian, 2A - between the peaks of Ullutau and Sarykol
19 – Churlenisa Vost, 3A* - between Yesenin peak and Gestola shoulder
20 – Svetgar, 3A - between the peaks of Svetgar and Tot
21 – Dzhantugan, 2B - between the peak of Dzhantugan and the Aristov rocks
22 – Marianna, 3A - between the peaks Marianna and Svetgar
23 – Bashkara, 2B* - between the peaks of Bashkara and Dzhantugan
24 – Pobeda, 3B - between the peaks of Ullukar and Bashkar
25 – Kashkatash, 3A* - between the peak of Free Spain and the peak of Ullukar
26 – Double, 3A - between the peak of the Caucasus Vost and the peak of Bzhedukh
27 – Saddle of the Caucasus, 3A - between the peaks of the Caucasus Gl and Vost
28 – Krenkel, 3A - between the peaks of the Caucasus Gl and Zap
29 – Chalaat, 3B - between the peaks of Chatyn Zap and M. Ushba
30 – Ushbinsky, 3A - between the Ushba and Shkheldy massifs
31 – Bivachny, 2B* - between the peaks of Fizkulturnika and Trade Unions
32 – Yusengi, 2B – between the peaks of Yusengi and Yusengi North
33 – Middle, 2B – between the peak of Malaya Shhelda and the peak of Fizkulturnika
34 – Rodina, 2A (when moving along the buttress from the Yusengi valley) – between the peaks of Yusengi and Yusengi Uzlovaya
35 – Akhsu, 2A – between the peaks of Yusengi Uzlovaya and Akhsu
36 – Becho, 1B – in the ridge of the GKH between peaks 3506 and 3728, it is also the lowest pass on the section of the GKH between Donguzorun and the Yusengi ridge and the closest to the Yusengi peak Uzlovaya.
37 – Becho Lozhny, 1B – in the ridge of the GKH to the west of peak 3506 and to the east of the lane. Olympian
38 – Yusengi Peremetny, 1B – glacial crossing through the short eastern spur of Gogutai peak
39 – Vysoka Dolra, 2A – at the GKH exit from the top of Vost. Donguzorun under Gogutai peak.
40 – Pastushy (Okhotsky), 1A – connects the Yusengi gorge with the upper reaches of the Kogutayka
41 – Vladimir Korshunov, 1B – between the peak of Bolshoi Kogutai and the peak of Baksan
42 – Pearl of Primorye, 1B* – between the peaks of Big and Small Kogutai
43 – Kogutai, 1B – between Interkosmos peak and Maly Kogutai peak
44 – Semerka, 3B* - between the peaks of Nakra and Donguzorun Western
45 – Donguzorun False, 1B – the pass closest to the top of Nakra (from the west) through the GKH
46 – Donguzorun, 1A – the simplest and lowest pass through the GKH to the west of the Nakra peak, located west of the Donguzorun False pass.
47 – Suakkalar, 1B* - between the peaks of Artykkaya and Sarykolbashi
48 – Sarykol (conventional name), 1B* - between the peaks of Sarykolbashi and Terskolak
49 – Chiper, 1B* - the pass closest to the top of Chiper through the GKH between the peaks of Chiper and Chiperazau
50 – Chiperazau, 1A - the pass closest to the top of Chiperazau through the GKH between the peaks of Chiper and Chiperazau
51 – Azau, 1A – between the peaks of Chiperazau and Azaubashi
52 – Hasankoysyuryulgen, 1B – between the peaks of Azaubashi and Ullukambashi
53 – Terskolak, 1B – in the ridge under the Terskolak peak to the north of it
54 – Terskol, 1B* - between the peak of Terskol and the ice slopes of Elbrus
55 – Assol, 1B – the more southern of the neighboring passes connecting the Irik glacier and the small “internal” glacial cirque between the upper reaches of the Irik and Irikchata gorges
56 – Frezi Grant, 1B – pass in the same summit circus as the lane. Assol (No. 55), north of it
57 – Irik-Irikchat, 2A – in the ridge between the Irik and Irikchat glaciers south of the peak of Achkeryakolbashi
58 – Chat Elbrussky, 1B* - in the ridge between the Irik and Irikchat glaciers on the ridge west of the peak of Achkeryakolbashi
59 – Irikchat, 1B* - between the Irikchat glacier and the peak of Chatkara
PASSES IN THE NORTHEAST, NEAR THE MUKAL GLACIER (without numbering, shown separately on PANORAMA-3):
Mukal-Mkyara, 1B
Mukal-Mkyara false, 3A
Voruta, 1A
Ritenok, 1B
Baumanets, 2A
Khibiny, 1B
Zemleprokhodtsev, 1B
3. GLACIERS
1 – Kayarta West (No. 485-b)
2 – Orel (No. 485-a)
3 – Sullukol (No. 491)
4 – Yunom Northern (No. 487-d)
5 – Yunom (No. 487-b)
6 – Nitrogen (No. 492-b)
7 – Kurmy East (No. 498)
8 – Adyrsu East (No. 493)
9 – Bashkara (No. 505)
10 – Kashkatash (No. 508)
11 – Bzhedukh (No. 509)
12 – Ushba Icefall
13 – Shkheldinsky (No. 511)
14 – Akhsu (No. 511-b)
15 – No. 511-a
16 – Yusengi (No. 514)
17 – No. 515-b
18 – Ozengi (No. 515-a)
19 – No. 517-b
20 – Kogutai East (No. 517-a)
21 – Kogutai West
22 – № 518
23 – № 519
24 – № 520
25 – № 538
26 – No. 537-b
27 – No. 537-a
28 – № 536
29 – Big Azau (No. 529)
30 – Garabashi
31 – Terskol
32 – Irik (No. 533)
33 – Irikchat
Mukal Glacier - see Additional PANORAMA-3
4. RIVER BASINS (GORGHES)
1 – Kullumkol
2 – Sullukol
3 – Vodopadnaya (these three rivers: 1, 2, 3 are the right tributaries of the Adyrsu River)
4 – Shkhelda (tributary of the Adylsu)
5 – Yusengi
6 – Kogutayka (these two rivers: 5 and 6 are the right tributaries of Baksan)
7 – Irik
8 – Irikchat (the last two rivers - 7 and 8 - left tributaries of Baksan)
ENLARGEED FRAGMENTS OF THE MAIN PANORAMAS.
a) Tyutyu-Bashi and Dzhailyk.
Array Tyutyu-Bashi(4460 m) in this fragment of the panorama is turned towards us with its western end, so that all five of its peaks are lined up in one line: Western(4350 m), Second Western(4420 m), Central(4430 m), Home(4460 m) and Eastern(4400 m). The massif ends in the Tyutyu-Su gorge (left in the photo) with the Northern wall with routes up to category 6A.
To the right of Tyutya is located Dzhailyk(4533 m), the most high peak Adyrsu ridge and, note, the third highest in the Baksan Valley and Elbrus region, after Elbrus (5642 m) and Ushba (4710 m). On the right, looking out from behind Dzhailyk Chegem(4351 m), famous for its complex rock walls up to category 6A. Near Chegem one usually enters through the Chegem Gorge, located between the Baksan and Bezengi gorges parallel to the first.
In the foreground, in the center, is the Sullukol glacier. In the picture you can also see the Tyutyu-Dzhailyk (3A) passes, it is between the peaks of Dzhailyk and Tyutyu-Bashi, and Kullumkol (1B), between the peaks of Tyutyu-Bashi and Kullumkol(4055 m), the latter is visible under Dzhailyk against its background. All of them are marked on the general panorama.
b) Koshtantau and Dykhtau.
Pictured on the left in front of us Koshtantau(5152 m), or simply Koshtan. This is the top of the “technical Caucasus” - the highest mountain in the Caucasus with a route of the sixth category of difficulty, 6A along the left side of the central buttress of the Northern Wall. The route was first traversed in 1961 by a team of Baumanians (MVTU, Moscow, leader Arnold Simonik), who dedicated it to the flight of German Titov, “cosmonaut number two.” The “sixes” are not classified on the slightly higher peak of Dykhtau. Traverse Dykhtau-Koshtan used to be a “six”, but at times he was stripped. The Koshtan-Dykh traverse with an ascent to Koshtan along 6A is completely illogical, and to the roof of the Caucasus - Elbrus - there are no “sixes”, unless we talk about climbing to the top after passing the Kyukurtlyu wall - which, you see, is also an illogical option.
On the left, “British” ridge 4B (G. Wooley, 1889) leads to Koshtan along the Northern ridge; this is the easiest way to the top. (A peak in the GKH north of Shchurovsky Peak is named after Wooley. It is curious that Hermann Wooley, in some sources Woolley, came to mountaineering, being already a football player and boxer). At the bottom of the ridge, a characteristic hump is visible - the ice gendarme. The lower, most difficult part of the route - the ascent from the Mizhirgi glacier to the Northern ridge of Koshtan - is hidden behind the peak Panoramic(4176 m), which is in the spur Ullouaza(4682 m). Approaches to Koshtan from this side are extremely dreary; you have to go through all the steps of the Mizhirgi icefall, of which there are three just before the overnight stops “3900”, and there is also a zone of cracks located higher up. The first two steps pass along the moraine and then along the ice, adhering to the left (along the way) side of the glacier, and the third goes around the scree on the left and goes out to the overnight camp "3900", the highest in the area.
In the foreground of the photo is an array Adyrsubashi(4370 m). To the left, to the Golubeva Pass (2A, 3764 m), the North-Eastern ridge with many gendarmes stretches from it. The climb to Adyrsubashi along this ridge is a very long “five A”. The Golubeva pass itself remained to the left behind the scenes; it is located in the depression between the peaks of Adyrsubashi and Orubashi and connects the upper reaches of Adyrsu and Chegem, serving faithfully one of the popular tourist routes.
Adyrsubashi is the nodal peak of the Adyr ridge. Its western spur asserts itself with peaks Chemist(4087 m), Ozernaya(4080 m), Moskovsky Komsomolets(3925 m) and Triangle(3830 m), behind this peak there is a descent towards the Ullutau alpine camp. The peaks of Khimik and Ozernaya are two snowy humps with rocky outcrops; in the picture they are to the left and below Adyrsubashi. From Ozernaya (to the right of Khimik and closer to us) a small Azot glacier flows into the Kullumkola valley (to the left). He received this “chemical” name from the name of the mountain camp, which operated (since 1936) from the eponymous DSO of chemical industry workers. In 1939, eight (!) alpine camps operated in the Adyrsu Gorge. The fate of "Azot" was most successful; now it is the "Ullutau" mountain camp.
To the north-west of the Ozernaya peak, a spur extends in our direction, bordering the Azot glacier, in which the peak can be traced Panoramic, aka peak Winter(3466 m), which received this name in the everyday life of the Ullutau alpine camp as an object of low ascents during the winter camp shifts. Another ridge branch of the Ozernaya peak (to the right in the photo) leads to the Moskovsky Komsomolets peak, the peak of which falls exactly on the right cut of this fragment. In the background is an array Mizhirgi with distinguishable Eastern peak (4927 m). Western Mizhirgi(5025 m) and the Second Western Mizhirgi, better known as the peak Borovikova(4888 m), are almost indistinguishable in the ridge running from Eastern Mizhirga to Dykhtau.
On the right photo before us is an array Dykhtau(5205 m), or simply Dykh. In the foreground, near the left cut of the fragment, is the Moskovsky Komsomolets peak, from which the crest of the ridge stretches to the low Triangle peak below in the center of the frame (both peaks were mentioned above in the commentary on Koshtantau). In the distance are two peaks, most often attributed to the Chegem region: a huge Tichtengen(4618 m), standing in the GKH between the peaks of Ortokar and Kitlod, and - a little closer, against its background - the peak facing us with a snowy slope Bodorka(4233 m), also located in GKH.
c) Bezengi wall.
In this fragment, approximately in profile, the entire Bezengi wall is visible, stretching in an arc from Shkhara to Lyalver. This unconventional perspective can puzzle even experienced experts in the area; it too “successfully” merges with the Bezengi wall of Gestol.
On the left in the photo you can see the long NE ridge of the “classical” climb to Shkhara(5069 m) along 5A - route of D. Cockin (J. G. Cockin, 1888). It was first climbed by the British-Swiss trio U. Almer, J. Cockin, C. Roth as part of an expedition of the British Royal Geographical Society led by Douglas Freshfield. The photographer on this and subsequent expeditions in the 1890s was Vitorio Sella, who received the Cross of St. Anne from Nicholas II for his photographs of the Caucasus Mountains. The glacier and Sella peak (4329 m), which is on the approach to the Mizhirgi peak in the upper reaches of the eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier, are named after him. In terms of technical complexity, Kokkin’s route to Shkhara is unlikely to reach even 2B, but it is dangerous because it is relaxing, although there is practically no place to reliably insure yourself on a long snow ridge with cornices in one direction or the other, and there have been cases of entire ligaments being torn off. In some sources (for example, A.F. Naumov, “Chegem-Adyrsu”) the route is categorized as 4B. The category can be raised to fifth, wanting to reduce the flow of climbers by cutting off those whom KSS Bezengi officially graduates to “four”, but not yet to “five”. The Kokkina route is commonly known as “Crab”: rocky outcrops resemble a crab with its claws down. This crab (it is not visible in the panorama) is clearly visible from the side of Dzhangi-kosh in the lower part of the ridge, above the “cushion”.
The ice gendarme and the Eastern peak of Shkhara are clearly visible on the ridge. There are no classified routes for it; it is covered practically on foot on the way to Main peak Shkhara. From Eastern Shkhara, the GKH leaves us to the southeast, even closer to the south, and passes through the peak Ushguli(4632 m), also known as South-Eastern Shkhara. The peak is named after the ancient village of Ushguli. Located in the Svan valley at an altitude of 2200 m, it is considered the highest mountainous European village of permanent residence (i.e. minus ski resorts and weather stations). There are several “fives” to the top of Ushguli from the Georgian side, as well as an extra-long 2A, the technical simplicity of which is compensated by the length of the approaches: two days from the Bezengi mountain camp here or from the Ailama mountain camp in Svaneti.
The most beautiful and logical route to Shkhara is perhaps the “Austrian” 5B Tomashek-Muller (1930) - ascent from the Bezengi glacier head-on along the Northern Ridge (in the picture it is on the border of light and shadow). During the times of the Stalinist USSR, there should not have been any foreign expeditions in our mountains, but a small diaspora of Austrian communists found refuge in our country in the early 1930s and, judging by the records of its route achievements, did not waste time in vain (look at the Caucasian routes at your leisure of that period with German surnames).
An inconspicuous peak Western Shkhara(5057 m) is worthy of mention because there are only two routes to it from the north (Anatoly Blankovsky, 1980 and Yuri Razumov, 1981), and both are very strong and objectively dangerous, rarely visited “sixes”. They appeared in the early 1980s, thanks to progress in ice equipment - first of all, the appearance in the USSR of crampons-platforms for ice and ice drills (previously they were secured with ice carrot hooks, which had to be hammered into the ice for a long time).
To the right of Western Shkhara, the ridge of the Bezengi wall gradually decreases towards the small rocky peak of the Shota Rustaveli peak (4860 m), hidden behind the peak closer to us Gestola(4860 m). Rustaveli Peak was first climbed by Georgians in 1937, from the south along route 4A. Recently, it is often visited from the north, since the relatively safe “Laletin’s board” leads to the depression of the Wall at the peak site - a monotonous ice route completed in 1983 by the St. Petersburg team of A. Laletin. In the full-time class of the 1995 Russian Mountain Climbing Championship, doubles leaving at night managed to jump this route to the very top by 10 o’clock in the morning!
Even further to the left in the panorama you can see the Dzhangi-Tau massif half-turned: Dzhangi Eastern(5038 m), Home(5058 m) and Western(5054 m). The route to Eastern Dzhangi along the NE ridge is the easiest on the Bezengi Wall; the only easier routes are to the extreme mountains of the Wall, Shkhara (technically easy 5A) and Gestola (4A with a climb through peak 4310). In addition, the NE ridge (buttress) of Eastern Dzhangi is objectively the least dangerous option for climbing the Wall from the north, and it is often used as a descent route after climbing the Dzhangi massif (including the Main Dzhangi), Western Shkhara or Rustaveli Peak. Eastern Dzhangi, like Shkhara, was unsealed in 1888 by Kokkin’s group.
To receive the “Stars of Bezengi” badge, it is not necessary to climb the Main Dzhangi (the only route to it from the north is 5A, which is dangerous due to ice avalanches); any peak of Dzhangi is enough – first of all, the simpler and safer Eastern one. There are no classified routes from the north to Western Dzhangi yet (except perhaps within the traverse of the Wall), and they are unlikely to appear soon: a beautiful and logical line to this peak is not visible from this side, but objectively dangerous ice faults are visible. But on the Georgian side, two 5B are classified in Western Dzhangi. I wonder when they were last seen?..
It looks like approximately the same ice “vegetable gardens” from the north and Katyn(4974 m), from which the huge and flat Katyn Plateau stretches to Gestola. Katyn was also first climbed in 1888 by members of the British expedition, but the simplest route to it from the north - 4B hp (G. Holder, 1888) - is objectively more dangerous and less beautiful than the NE edge of Dzhangi of the same category of difficulty.
The GKH line runs along the edge of the Bezengi wall through the Shkhara and Dzhangi, Katyn, Gestola and Lyalver massifs, and a long ridge running from Gestola to the southwest (to the right in the photo) and partially hiding the Katyn Plateau leads to the peak located in Georgia Tetnuld(4853 m). It is not visible in this fragment of the panorama (it is to the right), but in the general panorama it is there. In the 1990s, Georgians brought a metal cross with a characteristic shape, similar to the Georgian flag, to the top of Tetnulda. The easiest way to Gestola(4860 m) from the north - this is 3B through the peak Lyalver(4350 m), with an ascent to Lyalver along the technically simple 2B and a subsequent simple traverse through peak 4310 and the Gestola shoulder. This route (first climbed all the way back in 1903) is categorized as 3B, perhaps solely for its height and length. There is an option to shorten this Chinese hike - take a shortcut to peak 4310 by climbing it not through Lyalver, but head-on from the western branch of the Bezengi glacier. This version of the route to Gestola is categorized as 4A (A. Germogenov, 1932), although it will not have any technical difficulties even at 3A (be careful in the upper part - destroyed rocks).
The story with the name of the peak in the crest of the Bezengi wall west of the Gestola shoulder is very complicated. This slight increase in the ridge previously “passed” as peak 4310 or Bezymyanny Peak. The last name haunted renaming activists, and in the 1990s, two signs were erected on this peak in the neighborhood, one stating Yesenin peak, the other - peak 50th anniversary of CBD. The “anniversary” version of the name, it seems, sounded more significant than the poetic impulse of Yesenin’s admirers, for the sign “50 years of the KBR” was the result of a massive ascent along 2B through Lyalver with the support of the authorities from Nalchik. But in technical descriptions this tip, as a rule, still passes as "4310". It’s clearer: no matter what you call it, the height will not change :)
Peak 4310 separates two passes in the Bezengi wall, Ciurlionis East and West. On the enlarged fragment of the panorama, Ciurlionis East is indicated, it is between peak 4310 and the Gestola shoulder. Vertex Bashil(4257 m) - in the picture against the backdrop of Lyalvera - is located to the west of the Bezengi region and already belongs to the Chegem Gorge area.
A few words about height of the peaks of the Bezengi wall and her highest point.
All sources agree that Shkhara is the highest point of the Wall. But they determine the heights of the Bezengi peaks in different ways. Thus, for Shkhara Main you can find not only the traditional value of 5068 m, but also the more “prestigious” 5203 m, and for Dzhanga Main - values 5085, 5074 and 5058 m (Lyapin’s map). We rely on the data of the General Staff as more homogeneous (at least within a single region) and for higher points Shkhara And Jangi we take the values accordingly 5069 m(5068.8 according to the General Staff) and 5058 m. Direct visual assessments also give preference to Shkhara. When looking at the Bezengi Wall from the Northern Massif, as well as when looking at Shkhara from Dzhangi (and vice versa), Shkhara always gives the impression of being the dominant peak of the Wall.
Finally, about curvature of the "arc" of the Bezegi Wall, visible in the photo. The visual impression of its great curvature in the Shkhara-Gestola section is illusory; it is the pure effect of a large magnification of the image, in which the picture of a bunch of distant objects is stretched in azimuth, but does not expand in depth. So it seems that the slender ridge visible from the end is wagging its sides. In relation to this image: if you convert the VISIBLE angular distance between Shkhara Glavnaya and Katyn (or Dzhangi Western) into kilometers, it will turn out to be six times (!) LESS than the real distance from Shkhara Glavnaya to Gestola, but it seems that they are approximately the same.
d) Svaneti mountains and Jantugan pass.
The main characters of this fragment are the dominant Svetgar(4117 m) and, to the right, modest Marianne(3584 m), in a pair of two, completing the Svetgar ridge stretching from the east (on the left). In the soft evening light of the sun, their rocky slopes amaze with a variety of color shades. Peaks lined up behind Marianna Asmashi ridge, which are identified very uncertainly at a given end angle. This entire mountain complex would be of great interest to mountain tourists and climbers if it were open to visitors from the Russian side. Suffice it to say that most of the passes in the region - Asmashi, Marianna, Svetgar, Tot - are of category 3A.
A few words about the Dzhantugan plateau and the Dzhantugan pass (3483 m, tourist 2B), which dominate the middle plan of the fragment. The Dzhantugan plateau is one of the western branches of the huge Lekzyr (Lekziri) glacial complex, the largest on the southern side of the GKH. It is formed by a system of glaciers framing the GKH in the area from the Kashkatash Pass in the west to the area of the Bashiltau peak in the upper reaches of the Chegem Gorge in the east. These glaciers are adjacent to the passes connecting the regions of Adylsu, Adyrsu and Chegem with Svaneti. The Dzhantugan plateau resembles an apple rotten from the inside: its entire interior is broken by wide bottomless cracks, and only the narrow outer rim is edible. Any reasonable movements on the line Lekzyr - Bashkara - Dzhantugan - Aristova rocks - Gumachi - Chegettau - Latsga are possible only near the slopes of these peaks.
The glacier on the take-off to the Dzhantugan pass is severely torn, but in recent years there is a path to simply bypass the bergs and cracks, leading to the pass close to the end of the Aristov rocks (red spots in the photo). The pass itself is somewhat puzzling: you don’t see a clear bend in any direction, everything is flat, and only after walking 50-70 meters to the south and bumping into the faults, you understand that there has been a general decline towards Georgia. (At the same time, the red and white border stick sticks out only about twenty meters above the cliff in our northern direction.) Near the top of Gumachi there is another pass leading to the plateau - Eastern Dzhantugan, also known as False Gumachi (3580 m, tourist 2B) . The ascent to it from the Adyl-su gorge is no more difficult than 1B, but to descend from it to Svaneti (via a tricky icefall, which determines the category of both passes) you have to go around the plateau on the right and, therefore, follow the Dzhantugan pass. So for routes from Adyl-su to Svaneti, this one is clearly preferable. There is also the option of climbing to the Dzhantugan plateau in the middle between these two passes, through the central depression in the chain of Aristov rocks.
Aristov Rocks named in memory of Oleg Dmitrievich Aristov, who stood at the origins of Soviet mountaineering. In 1935, his group was one of the first to “climb” the peaks above the Dzhantugan plateau along the simplest routes and made several first ascents - Dzhantugan along 2A, Gadyl along 3A, the Gadyl-Bashkar traverse (4A). That summer, the 1st All-Union Alpiniad of Trade Unions worked in the Adyl-Su gorge, and 24-year-old Aristov led the School of Instructors there. Oleg died at the peak of Communism on September 13, 1937. He was appointed leader of the assault group, which had the order to bring the bust of Stalin to Communism Peak (then Stalin Peak). Oleg walked with frostbitten feet and slipped, falling off at the very top.
The ascent to the Dzhantugan plateau from Adyl-Su passes along the Dzhankuat glacier, which was chosen by glaciologists to study the processes occurring in valley glaciers. The thickness of this typical valley glacier is 40-50 meters in icefalls and 70-100 meters in flattened areas. Like other glaciers in the Caucasus, Dzhankuat has been rapidly retreating in recent decades. At its tip, in a clearing with a seductive name with the seductive name “Green Hotel”, are the houses of the Glaciological Station of Moscow State University. In early June, a backcountry camp is sometimes held here, aimed at beginners and advanced riders. In the summer there are students at the station. In winter, the houses are convenient to use for overnight accommodation; they protect you from the winds from the pass, which make you more playful when descending into the wide flat part of the gorge below the Dzhankuat glacier.
From the Dzhantugan plateau it is convenient to make radial ascents to the surrounding peaks. IN east direction they are simple - to the top Gumachi(3826 m) along 1B (on foot) and Chegettau(4049 m) along 2B. This deuce-B is the oldest route in the region and the entire Elbrus region (excluding Elbrus itself) - Douglas Freshfield, 1888. IN westward From the Dzhantugan plateau, it is convenient to climb Dzhantugan along 2A and 3A, as well as to Bashkara along 3B, Gadyl along 3A and Lekzyr Dzhantugansky (1B).
Peak Jantugan(4012 m) at the right edge of the panorama fragment, a beautiful and simple route 2A leads to it from the pass. Jan is facing us here with its northern side, on which three triple-Bs are classified, one of them (along the NE edge) is clearly visible - this is the edge that casts a shadow. By going around the peak from the side of the plateau, you can climb to the bridge between it and its western neighbor, the peak of Bashkar. Near this crossing, route 3A to Dzhan begins (along the SW ridge), and a beautiful ridge route 3B leads to Bashkara.
The Bashkara-Gadil massif borders the Dzhantugana plateau from the west. From the plateau it is clearly visible that the peaks Bashkara(4162 m) and Gadyl(4120 m) – ends of one massif. It is simply turned to Svaneti with the “Gadyl” side, and to Balkaria with the “Bashkar” side, which is why it received different names from the corresponding observers. The Bashkara-Gadyl traverse (4A) is one of the oldest routes in the area (K. Egger, 1914). In the panoramic photo from Kezgen, the Gadil peak is not visible, it is closed by Bashkara, which is presented in all its severity in an enlarged fragment (photo on the left). Bashkara breaks off towards the glacier of the same name with its northern wall, along which there are two routes 6A, technically the most difficult in Adyl-Su. The snow “pillow” to the right of Bashkara is the Pobeda Pass, one of the most difficult in the area (3B according to tourist classification). The Bashkara pass, between Bashkara and Dzhantugan, is much easier. The Bashkara glacier descends from the northern slopes of Bashkara, from the melting of which Lake Bashkarinskoye was formed, threatening a breakthrough and mudflow down the Adylsu gorge.
e) from the Kashkatash pass to Ushba.
The same section with markings of peaks, passes and glaciers.
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(Remember, the peaks of the GKH are marked with solid red circles, the passes of the GKH are marked with red crosses).
From left to right:
Top 14 - Ullukara(4302 m), located in the GKH, ends with a wall of difficulty 5B to the upper reaches of the Kashkatash glacier.
Peak 1 against the backdrop of Ullukara - peak Germogenova(3993 m) in the Ullukara spur. From the middle reaches of the Kashkatash glacier, a ridge stretches to the top along which route 2B runs - one of the longest “double B” in the area (along with “double B” to Eastern Donguzorun along the GKH ridge). Groups of beginners usually walk this route overnight.
Pass 25 - Kashkatash, 3A* - located in the GKH between the peaks of Ullukara and Free Spain.
Glacier 10 - Kashkatash glacier, belonging to the Adylsu basin, the tributary flows opposite the lower houses of the Jantugan mountain camp.
Peak 15 - Peak Free Spain(4200 m), located in GKH. The route to the top along the eastern ridge from the pass is category 4A. Ice route 4B along the wall to the left of the rock tower (Alexey Osipov and his comrades, 1995) is recommended as a winter option; it is dangerous for rocks in the warm season. There are several “five B” routes along the rocky tower. The rock gendarme in the eastern ridge is sometimes called Gogol Peak, and the gendarme in the western ridge is Lermontov Peak (I remember Yesenin Peak, mentioned in the description of Bezengi near the Lyalver peak). In mountaineering terms, these are still gendarmes, they are not targeted independent routes, but topologically “Lermontov’s gendarme” – whatever one may say, this is the nodal tip of the GKH. The Dollakora ridge branches off from it, which leads south to Svaneti and separates the Lekzyr and Chalaat glaciers there.
Top 16 - Bzhedukh(4270 m), located in GKH. The snowy slopes of the bridge between the peaks of Free Spain and Bzhedukha represent the simplest, but dangerous by landslides, route of descent from Free Spain, commonly referred to as the “Trough”.
Glacier 11 - Bzhedukh, belongs to the Shkhelda basin.
Pass 26 - Double, 3A - is located in the GKH between the East Caucasus Peak and the Bzhedukh Peak.
Peak 17 - Peak Caucasus Eastern(4163 m), the nodal peak of the GKH. Here the Main Range turns away from us, towards the peaks of Vuleya and Shchurovsky, and the remaining peaks of the Caucasus are already in its spur, which descends into the Shkhelda valley.
Pass 27 - Caucasus Saddle, 3A - is located in the GKH spur between the Main and Eastern peaks of the Caucasus.
Peak 3 - Peak Caucasus Western, located in the spur of the GKH.
Pass 28 - Krenkelya, 3A - is located in the spur of the GKH between the Western and Main peaks of the Caucasus.
Peak 4 - Peak Caucasus Chief(4037 m), located in the spur of the GKH.
A short but powerful spur with the peak Chatyn Glavny extends from Western Chatyn to Svaneti. It separates the two branches of the Chalaat glacier, ending on the Chatyn plateau - the southern cirque of the main, eastern branch of the glacier - with its famous Northern wall with solid “sixes”. Approach from Russia to the Chatyn Plateau under the routes to the Northern Wall of Chatyn - up the Shkheldy gorge through the Chatyn South pass, also known as Chatyn Lozhny (2B). (For more information about this pass, see Catalog passes and peaks of Oleg Fomichev, a link to him at the end of the article among other useful links.) From the Georgian side, it is difficult to enter the Chatyn Plateau without a very strong desire; for this you need to either cross the additional Dalla-Cora pass in the southern spurs of the GKH, or go up through the complex icefalls of the Chalaat glacier, which is extremely problematic even with the necessary equipment.
Near Malaya Ushba, an even more impressive short spur departs from the GKH to Svaneti with the pearl of the Caucasus - the Ushba massif and its peaks Northern Ushba(4694 m) and South Ushba(4710 m).
The main GKH passes in this junction:
Pass 29 - Chalaat, 3B - between the peaks of Chatyn Western and Malaya Ushba, the Academician Alexandrov Pass is projected onto the same pass, 3B - between Chatyn and Shchurovsky Peak
Pass 30 - Ushbinsky, 3A - between the Ushba and Shkheldy massifs.
f) Shhelda massif.
Peak heights Shkheldinsky massif(from left to right):
Eastern- 4368 m
Central- 4238 m
peak Aristova- 4229 m
peak Science- 4159 m
2nd Western- 4231 m
Western- 3976 m
By the way, in 1974 the titanic traverse Shhelda (all peaks) - Ushba - Mazeri was completed (G. Agranovsky, A. Vezner, V. Gritsenko and Yu. Ustinov, 14.07-5.08 1974). The mandatory set of traverses for all Shkhelda peaks includes five of the six named above: Western Shkhelda, located on the distant periphery, in the isthmus already on the approaches to the peak of the Trade Unions, falls out.
The remaining peaks of the Shhelda massif are considered gendarmes. The gendarme Rooster stands out especially - a tall rocky phallus next to the Eastern Tower of Shkhelda.
g) Malaya Shkhelda area.
Not particularly noticeable, but interesting for its topology and rich in surrounding views, the mountain cluster around Malaya Shkhelda(4012 m). GKH enters the frame from the left from the side of the peak adjacent to Shkhelda Trade unions(3957 m) and, moving with a slight southern roll to the west through the depression of the Bivachny pass (3820 m, 2B*), climbs the peak Sportsman(3961 m, not to be confused with the peak Day of the Athlete, which is in the Adyl-Su ridge), turns 90 degrees from it and, going north-west, bypassing the Sredniy pass (3910 m), rises to the top of M. Shkhelda, the highest point of the region. Further, almost without changing course, the GKH passes along the double rocky ridge of Akhsu (3916 m), which is visible from the edge from Kezgen and appears to be an end snow slope with an easily recognizable berg at the base. Having gone down this slope (route 2A), the GKH turns strictly west and, passing the lane. Akhsu (2A, 3764 m), climbs to a low peak that is completely easy to approach from any side Yusengi Uzlovaya(3846 m). Here the GKH says goodbye to us and goes beyond the right edge of the frame towards the Becho pass, and in the north-east direction (to the left and towards us) the Yusengi ridge departs from Uzlovaya. For more than a kilometer it leads along a wide and impeccably smooth snow ridge (the summit outlet of the Akhsu glacier), while imperceptibly passing the area of the Rodina pass (2A, 3805 m) and reaching its highest point at the top Yusengi(3870). Then it goes down a long way into the Baksan Valley (in the photo along the ridge in our direction).
Both peaks of Yusengi and the Rodina pass provide gorgeous views towards Elbrus and Donguz; no other observation point will give you greater views of the Elbrus-Donguz expanse. The peak of Malaya Shkhelda is an excellent vantage point for the entire adjacent Georgian sector, and the Fizkulturnik peak gives an amazing close view of the Shkhelda - Ushba - Mazeri link and the Ushba glacier in the pit between them.
Ascent on foot to the peak Fizkulturnik from the lane. Average is 6-8 minutes. The climb from there to the top of Malaya Shkhelda is a nasty 2A climb along old fragile rocks. The rock traverse M. Shkhelda - Akhsu is already classified as 2B, and a more extended traverse in the other direction - M. Shkhelda - Fizkulturnik peak - Trade Unions peak - as 3A.
The peaks indicated in the picture form a chain above the cirque of the Akhsu glacier, which is open (not covered by moraine sediments) along its entire course from its sources to the place of its confluence with the Shkhelda glacier. There is no longer section of open glacier in the gorges from Adyrsu to Azau.
h) Donguzorun and Nakra massifs.
When you look at the Donguzorun massif from Cover(4269 m) from Terskol, you wonder: why was this Nakra called Nakra and called it at all, if it is nothing more than an appendage of the really serious and sign-defining mountain Donguzorun? When you stand in the upper reaches of the Yusengi gorge and look up at the monumental eastern wall of Donguz under a centuries-old glacial shell, you are even more surprised: what does Nakra have to do with it and where is she, this dependent little girl? But when you look at the Donguza massif from Kezgen, the global picture becomes clear. The western peak of Donguz is the center of a regular three-pointed star. From it to the southeast (to the left in the photo) the Donguza ridge stretches; it is this that forms the main part of the complex - the Donguzoruna massif itself with its three adjacent peaks: Donguzorun East(4442 m), Main(4454 m) and West(4429 m). From the western peak the north-eastern spur of Donguz descends directly towards us, which is at the intermediate peak Interkosmos(3731 m, in the photo from Kezgen this is a gently sloping snow-covered pyramid) is divided into two branches, a very short northern one, which gracefully curves down to the Donguzorun River above the Chegetskaya Polyana, and the longer one - the eastern one, Kogutai (we can clearly see the shallow flat snow bowl of the western circus of Kogutai). In this branch above the glacial cirque, two similar triangular tips are clearly visible - Big Kogutai(3819 m), it is to the left, and Maly Kogutai(3732 m). The Main Ridge itself from the western peak of Donguz goes to the west (to the right), immediately jumps onto the Nakra tower and then gracefully descends to the hospitable Donguzorun pass (1A, 2302).
And yet, it would be a great injustice - and a factual error - to consider Nakra not an independent peak, but just a side appendage of Donguz. The fact is that it is adjacent to it, and not to its dominant neighbor, from the south. Tsalgmyl ridge, which is very long in itself and to which, like a rod, numerous side spurs are attached, filling the vast space surrounded by the Inguri River (from the south) and its primary tributaries Nakra (from the west) and Dolra (from the east). Only a small internal area was subjugated by Donguzorun - the one occupied by the modest and short Dolra ridge, nestled three kilometers to the GKH and adjacent to the Main Peak of Donguz.
The topology of the Donguzorun-Nakra massif is interesting. There is a general long and monotonous, non-steep climb from the southern, Georgian side, where the multi-armed Kvish glacier spreads freely (and from where the routes of G. Merzbacher, 1891 and R. Gelbling, 1903 - both 2A) were laid to the peaks of Donguz at the turn of the 19th-20th centuries ), and then, upon reaching the border ridge line, everything abruptly ends down into Russia, with the eastern and northern walls of the massif, famous for their difficult climbing routes (categories from 4B to 5B). And immediately beyond the reset of the eastern and northern walls of Donguz there are greenery and the Cheget-Terskol delights of civilization.
In connection with such an extraordinary topology, in the winter of 1989, the following story happened on Donguz. As part of the mountaineering championship on the Northern Face of Donguzorun (strong route 5B Khergiani), a team of two from Kyiv climbed, but soon after reaching the summit they did not get in touch and disappeared. They had no food (they dropped it while still on the rise). Winter, February, frost, bad weather. They were found only on the 8th day...at the Minvod airport (!). .
i) Elbrus.
To the observer at the top of Kezgen Elbrus addressed by his Eastern peak(5621 m), and as symmetrically as possible in terms of the central center line and side ramps. The western peak of the mountain (5642 m) is completely covered by the Eastern one.
On Eastern peak On its right side, rocks are visible against the background of the sky; they border the summit crater with a 20-meter wall. The highest point of the dome is located on the southern (left in the photo) edge of the crater. This summit crater is open to the east, towards us, and on the slope, half a kilometer below it, a side crater yawns, and below it, the Achkeryakol Lava Flow (ALF) stretches further down - a chain of scree rocks of volcanic origin. This stream descends to the ice fields of Eastern Elbrus, giving rise to the rivers Irik and Irikchat.
On the northern (right to the viewer) slope of Elbrus, two spots of rocky outcrops can be seen against the sky - approximately at 4600 and 5100 m. The upper ones are Lenz rocks, named after the member of the expedition, General Emmanuel, who reached them: "..One of the academicians - Mr. Lenz - rose to a height of 15,200 feet. The full height of Elbrus above the level of the Atlantic Ocean is determined to be 16,800 feet"(quoted). Each of these altitude values was obtained with more than a 10% error, but their ratio suffers from errors much less and, when linked to the currently accepted height of Elbrus (5642 m), allows us to estimate the height of the cliffs reached by Lenz at 5100 m. This means that we are talking about the upper rocky outcrops.
A few words about the historical route of Douglas Freshfield to the Eastern peak of Elbrus (1868). The mountain route classifier leads Freshfield through Shelter 11, but he took a different route (described in detail in his best-selling book, Exploration of the Central Caucasus). The group left the village of Urusbievs (Upper Baksan) and the first day on horseback advanced along the Baksan valley, and the second day they climbed up the Terskol gorge, from where the dome of Elbrus first appeared, and reached the bivouac site near the “Ice Base”. The group reached the summit at three o'clock in the morning. Having stepped onto the glacier, she walked in a straight line towards the cone and first reached a height from which spurs opened towards the distant steppe, and then, already at the beginning of the ascent along the cone, she met the sun. By half past eight, at an altitude of 4800 m, the group reached the rocks of the upper part of the cone and at 10h40m reached the top in the area of the current obelisk.
“This peak was at the end of a horseshoe-shaped ridge, crowned by three elevations and framed on three sides by a snow plateau, open to the east. We walked - rather, ran - along the ridge to the very end, passing two significant depressions and visiting all three peaks. … [At the same time] we naturally looked out to see if there was a second peak somewhere, but it was nowhere to be found. It seemed to us that the western slope abruptly dropped down to Karachay and that there were no dense clouds that could hide a peak approximately the same height as ours. But we were wrong: the western, slightly higher peak was completely hidden by haze... We must remember that before this ascent we had never seen Elbrus and, therefore, had only a vague idea of the structure of the mountain.”
Having built a “stone man” on the top, the group began their descent along the ascent path at the beginning of twelve, went down into the valley in the evening and the next day returned to the Urusbievs, where they were greeted with greetings and treats.
“We were caught in the crossfire of questions about what it was like at the top, and we were sad to report that we did not see the giant rooster that lives in the heights and greets the sunrise with a cry and flapping its wings, but uninvited guests meets with beak and claws, wanting to protect the treasure from people.”
Routes are routes, but in the case of Elbrus one cannot remain silent about his own biography. Why is the Main Caucasus Range seemingly the main one, and its iconic peaks - Elbrus and Kazbek - somewhere on the side? Because they are volcanoes. In the Greater Caucasus, volcanism is associated with the fragmentation of the earth's crust at the late stage of mountain building. The Elbrus volcano formed in the Side Range on the watershed of the Malki, Baksan and Kuban rivers, and it is confined to the intersection of the longitudinal Tyrnyauz fault zone and the transverse Elbrus fault. In the southwestern part of the mountain, the remains of an ancient crater are preserved in the form of the Khotyutau-Azau rocks. Nowadays, the two-headed volcano is planted on the upper part of the ancient crater - a highly raised pedestal (base) made of ancient rocks of granite and crystalline schist.
Elbrus as a volcano was born about 2 million years ago. All the mountains of this region then rose in low hills, and powerful eruptions of gas-rich magma formed first volcanic cone(its remains in the area of the Irikchat pass). After many hundreds of thousands of years the volcano started working again– an almost kilometer-long cliff speaks about its power Kükurtlyu. A cross-section of this wall clearly shows how layers of volcanic bombs, slag, tuff and ashes alternate with frozen lava flows. Explosive eruptions and outpourings of thick and viscous lava alternated many times, and when the volcano began to calm down, hot gases and solutions continued to penetrate through the thickness of the volcanic rocks for a long time. Thanks to this, layers of sulfur were formed, now turning yellow against the dark red background of the Kükurtlu cliffs.
Now the wall routes to Kyukurtlu are considered one of the most difficult in the Caucasus.
Third phase of activity volcano, about 200 thousand years ago, was restrained. Lava outpourings descended over and over again into the Baksan valley. The slowly cooling lava contracted in volume and cracked, and remarkable columnar structures were formed in it, which we see on the walls rising above the road from the village. Terskol to the observatory, as well as forming the left side of the gloomy Azau gorge.
Fourth phase of activity volcano - 60-70 thousand years ago - was extremely stormy. The explosions knocked out a plug of frozen ancient rocks from the crater of the volcano, and the volcanic material spread over tens of kilometers (discovered near Tyrnyauz, in the Chegem Valley). At this time it was formed Western peak Elbrus. The eruptions formed a loose layer of volcanic bombs, tuffs and other products, mainly on the western and northern slopes. When the energy of the volcano decreased, lava outpourings began - now in the upper reaches ancient valley Malki, and not to Baksan.
Elbrus area from space - on Google Maps:
Topology of the Western and Eastern peaks of Elbrus close-up.
The highest point of the Eastern Peak is visible, located in the southern part of the summit dome. Being on the Eastern peak, it is not always obvious where the highest point is...
The Kezgen campaign of 2007, in which photographic materials for PANORAMA-1 were obtained, is described in the 2nd part of Igor Pasha’s article.. The photographic materials themselves are also presented there, in a significantly larger volume..
We also provide a number of basic links on the topic of publication:
http://caucatalog.narod.ru- Database of passes, peaks, valleys, glaciers and other objects of the Caucasus with photographs (more than 2200 objects and 7400 photographs as of January 2010), reports on mountain hikes. The author of the caucatalog website is Mikhail Golubev (Moscow).
The authors will be grateful for constructive comments, pointing out any factual inaccuracies and providing additional information. All this will be taken into account with gratitude when updating the article!
They are no less famous in the world than the Cordillera, a mountain system stretching along the western edges of North and South America for as much as eighteen thousand kilometers in length and 1,600 kilometers in width, with the highest peak of Denali at 6,190 meters above sea level in North America, also in Aconcagua - 6963 meters above sea level in South America. Many countries border the Cordillera - Mexico, Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and Chile. No less famous is the Cordillera Himalaya mountain system with the highest peak Chogori - 8611 meters above sea level on the border of the PRC and Pakistan and another peak Lhotse, exceeding a height of eight kilometers on the border of the PRC and Nepal. On Globe They also admire Tibet with the highest peak in the world, Everest - 8852 meters above sea level. However, there are other mountain systems on Earth on different continents that attract attention and which thousands and thousands of brave peak conquerors strive to climb.
From the legendary Taman to the gray Caspian Sea
The Great Caucasus Mountains are essentially two mountain systems - the Greater and Lesser Caucasus in Eurasia. They stretched for more than 1,100 kilometers from north-west to south-east, and even more specifically, from the Taman Peninsula in the region and along the Black Sea coast to the Absheron Peninsula near the gray Caspian Sea and near the capital of Azerbaijan, Baku. The maximum width of the mountain system is 180 kilometers. Compared to the Cordillera, this is almost a ninth part, but nevertheless noticeable and the root cause of the emergence of the subtropical zone in Russia. In which over 15 million of both our fellow citizens and guests from near and far abroad improve their health every year and have a good rest. The Greater Caucasus is divided into three parts: Western - from the Black Sea to Elbrus; Central - from Elbrus to Kazbek and finally the Eastern Caucasus - from Kazbek to the Caspian Sea. As for the height above sea level, for Everest it is 5642 meters, for Kazbek 5033. Total area The Great Caucasus Mountains are 1400 square kilometers. In part, this is a land of eternal snow and glaciers. The area of glaciers exceeds 2050 square kilometers. Major center icing - Mount Elbrus plus the Bezengi wall - 17 kilometers.
The land of five dozen nations
The Great Caucasus Mountains are densely populated. This refers to its foothills. Abkhazians, Ingush, Ossetians, Armenians, Azerbaijanis, Adygs (Circassians) and many other nationalities live here, united by the common name - Caucasian peoples. The majority are Muslims. But Christians are also widely represented - Ukrainians, Georgians, Russians, Armenians, as well as a noticeable part of Ossetians and Abkhazians. By the way, Armenian and Georgian churches are the oldest in the world. Thanks in large part to them, these two peoples of the Great Caucasus have preserved their identity, morals and customs. Let's add to this - the Caucasian peoples were under foreign rule for a hundred years - Turks, Persians, Russians. Now others have gained independence and become sovereign.
Twenty-five sky-high peaks
This is exactly how many of them the Great Caucasus has from Elbrus to Dombay-Ulgen - 4046 meters above sea level. Popular among climbers: Dykhtau - 5204 meters above sea level; Pushkin Peak - 5100 m, we have already mentioned Kazbek; Shota Rustaveli - 4960m, Gulchi-Tau - 4447 meters, etc.
The Great Caucasus is replete with rivers, lakes and waterfalls
Originating at mountain peaks, some flow into the Bzyb, Kodor, Ingur (Inguri), Rioni, Mzymta, etc. B is the largest Kuban in the Krasnodar Territory. And in the Caspian - Kura, Samur, Terek, Sunzha, Baksan - there are more than two dozen of them in total. Among the majestic Caucasus Mountains, the world famous lake Sevan (Armenia). It is located at an altitude of 1900 meters above sea level. Its area is 1240 square kilometers, depth - from twenty to over eighty meters. 28 rivers flow into the lake, but only one flows out - Hrazdan, a tributary of the Araks. By the way, it will be noted that both the Caspian and Black Sea the essence of the remnant of the once world ocean Tethys. The names of the Black Sea have changed since ancient times - Khazar, Sugdes, Temarun, Cimmerian, Akhshaena, Blue, Tauride, Holy and even Ocean. The current name refers to its color during raging storms. It really looks black then. In the old days he was also cautiously called unhospitable and angry. The Caspian reservoir received its name from the name of the Caspian tribes of horse breeders who once lived near its shores. It was also called Girkansky, Dzhurazhansky, Khvalynsky, Derbent - in total over seven dozen names.
And about another unique water body of the Great Caucasus - the Zeygalan Waterfall, which is fantastic in natural beauty (otherwise it is also called the Great Zeygelan Waterfall). It is located in North Ossetia in the valley of the Midagrabindon River, seven kilometers south of the village of Dzhimara. The height of the fall is 600 meters. Translated from Ossetian - “falling avalanche”. It is one of the ten most grandiose and famous waterfalls on Earth. It pushes aside its brother Gavarnie in France - 422 meters high and the Krimml in Austria - 380 meters. It originates from under a hanging glacier at an altitude of 650-700 meters. The peak flow occurs in the summer months of July-August. In winter it dries out and is marked only by ice smudges on the rocks. The waterfall area is part of the Kazbek-Dzhimarai mountain cluster, the largest not only in North Ossetia, but in the entire Great Caucasus. The place is amazing in its beauty - on the slopes of the mountains there is a sea of flowers, herbs, the aromas of alpine meadows make heads turn. But you should be careful - the waterfall is dangerous for people: rockfalls occur, and sometimes pieces from a melting glacier fly from above. Nevertheless, we actively visit the waterfall. Tourists are filming grandiose panorama waterfall on a camera or television camera.
Flora and fauna of the Great Caucasus
As for the flora, it is represented by almost six and a half thousand flowering plants. Of these, 166 are unique to mountains. The subtropics are famous for dozens of species of palm trees. Relict juniper and pistachio grow here; Pitsunda pine, oaks, hornbeams, mimosa, tulip tree, magnolias, bamboo - you can’t list all the tree species. Individual patriarchal oaks over a thousand years old. Tourists are advised to walk in juniper groves. Especially for those who have asthma or bronchitis. The breath of juniper kills all germs and viruses in a person in minutes. A day, two, three walks, and it’s as if you were born again! This is also facilitated by sea air, thickly infused with salts of bromine, calcium, potassium, etc.
As for the fauna of the Great Caucasus Mountains, it is also rich and diverse here. You will also come across wild boars (beware of mothers and fathers with cubs: the fangs of males are sharp, and there have been cases when encounters with wild boars ended in serious injuries or worse - death!). Chamois, mountain goats, and bears are also found here. Once upon a time there lived both lynxes and leopards. Asiatic lions and tigers. The Caucasian bison became extinct in 1925. The last elk was killed in 1810. A great variety of invertebrates - there are a thousand species of spiders alone. The Great Caucasus is also the habitat of golden eagles, which are hunted by poachers and sold abroad for big money. People like to hunt with golden eagles in the Caucasus itself, and in Kazakhstan, and in Kyrgyzstan, and in Saudi Arabia, in other regions and countries of the planet.
Stele "Soaring Eagle"
It appeared in 2013 near the resort villages and Supsekh, not far from Varvarovka, where the gas pipeline called “Turkish Stream” originates, and was opened as a race for Russia Day. Nine kilometers from Anapa. The authors are sculptor V. Polyakov in collaboration with architect Yu. Rysin.
The monument is made of cold bronze, which guarantees its durability and is not afraid of any weather changes. A soaring eagle with a wide wingspan and head proudly raised to the sky signifies the beginning of the Great Caucasus Mountains. In front of the stele there is a platform for vehicles. Tourists, and there are them here, traveling to others resort villages Big and Small Utrish, thousands and thousands are sure to stop and take pictures or film the monument with a video camera. By the way, from the “Soaring Eagle” there is a stunning view of Anapa and the bays where the city is freely spread out (in ancient times it bore the mysterious ancient Greek name Gorgippia, and there was an active slave trade, minted its own coins, and representatives of the nobility from different regions of the Caucasus came and sailed here for white-faced brides!). IN good weather the coast is visible right up to the Bank of Mary Magdalene, which is near the village - and where divers come and flock not only from all over Russia, but also from abroad. So, the Great Caucasus Mountains begin from the foothills and, in particular, from Bald Mountain, which is only 319 meters high above sea level, other hills are even lower. The foothills are at the very beginning of the Semisamsky ridge, which is part of the chain of the Caucasus Mountains. And Bald Mountain is called because of the absence of any vegetation on it at all. No, no, there are herbs and flowers there. But no more. Let us remind you once again that it is nine kilometers from the center of Anapa to Lysaya Gora, and three times less from the outskirts of the city. And it’s a stone’s throw, as they say, to Maly and. And these places are well known to tourists.
Bolshoy Utrish has one of the main attractions of the beginning of the Great Caucasus - a dolphinarium on the open sea and with a theater. IN high season There are several performances every day. The artists are sea animals. At the end of a peculiar performance, bottlenose dolphins deftly jump onto the platform and willingly take pictures with everyone or be filmed on a television camera. You can hug them heartily, kiss them, or swim in the waters of the dolphinarium. Meanwhile, the seal, leaning on its tail, enthusiastically applauds the audience with its flippers. On Big Utrish, as legends say, the hero Prometheus was chained to one of the rocks, giving people the sacred fire and thereby causing fierce anger in the main god of Olympus, Zeus the Thunderer. Zeus ordered the disobedient man to be chained to a rock with strong chains, and a bloodthirsty eagle flew to the martyr to torment his liver with sharp claws. True, residents of neighboring Sochi Anapa object that de Prometheus was chained in the Eagle Rocks area near the former capital of the 2014 Winter Olympics. And they even built a monument to the hero - Prometheus stands on the mountain with the chains torn on his hands, and he has the proud appearance of a winner! And yet, the statement of the Sochi residents raises doubts: Eagle Rocks are located far from the sea, near a fast river. But in the museum under open air In the center of Anapa "Gorgippia" they found a crypt with frescoes of the exploits of another mythological hero - Hercules. And from the myths of Ancient Greece it is known for certain that it was Hercules who freed Prometheus from the chains. He also drove away the bloodthirsty eagle. Let the experts decide who is right and who is wrong. But in Anapa, which is no less than two and a half thousand years old, they stubbornly believe that the Prometheus Rock is still located on Bolshoy Utrish. In their opinion, another legend is also irrefutable - that the Argonauts, led by their brave captain Jason, sailed past the rocks of Big Utrish in search of the Golden Fleece. These are the mysteries that shroud the beginning of the Great Caucasus Mountains near Anapa and the soaring eagle stele.
Peaks from Novorossiysk to Gelendzhik
Today there are five resort areas: Sochi, Gelendzhik, Tuapse, Anapa and Taman. From each of them to the other, as they say, is just a stone's throw away. And they all stretch along the Black Sea coast with the exception of Taman, which also has access to Sea of Azov. And the Black Sea coast is mainly protected by mountains. Except for Anapa, where, as we noticed, the Great Caucasus Mountains begin, but in general the municipality extends from the sea to the steppe expanses. And only in the area of Novorossiysk, as a continuation of the Semisamsky ridge with Bald Mountain, the foothills gradually rise, moving into the Markotkhsky ridge or in Adyghe into Markotkh, which stretches from Novorossiysk towards Gelendzhik for more than ninety kilometers. The most high mountain, towering above Novorossiysk - Sugarloaf (558 meters above sea level). Gradually rising, the Markotkhsky ridge in some places goes up more than 700 meters. It consists of limestone, sandstone, clay, but its main component is marl, which is used to make cement. This is especially noticeable in Novorossiysk - there are factories producing this type of building materials, and there is a lot of dust all around. The Markotkhsky ridge, we note, runs parallel to and south of the Main Caucasian ridge. There are many attractions between Novorossiysk and Anapa. In particular, the Sheskharis juniper woodland is a natural monument. We talked about the healing properties of relict juniper above, so we won’t repeat ourselves, we’ll only emphasize that it is especially useful in the treatment of asthma and bronchi. From Anapa to Novorossiysk it is directly 40 kilometers, along the highway - 52. You can overcome them in a little more than forty minutes. And if you drive another 14 kilometers towards Gelendzhik, you will find yourself on the Abrau Peninsula, at the southern end of which is Bolshoi Utrish with its famous open sea dolphinarium and theater. But the main feature of the peninsula is undoubtedly the town of Abrau-Dyurso, comfortably located among the mountains and part of the municipal resort town of Novorossiysk.
Appanage estate of Russian sovereigns
The village has a double name - . And there is a reason for this. One village is located in the mountains, among fantastically beautiful nature. There is a river with the same name and the largest river in the Caucasus freshwater lake with the same name as the village. With a population of about three thousand, living like in paradise. Mild climate, warm winter and vineyards, vineyards, vineyards. Lake Abrau is 3100 meters long, 630 wide, 8 to 11 meters deep, and by the way, it is home to fish. A gorgeous embankment - with gazebos and benches. In summer the water is warm and you can enjoy swimming in the lake. But you can also plunge into the Black Sea. Near the second village of the royal estate - Durso. Today there are recreation centers and health resorts where you can relax and receive treatment.
The village of Abrau is known throughout the world for its exquisite tasting Russian champagne. Prince Lev Golitsyn was at the origins of its production. And the baton was picked up, not surprisingly, by Joseph Stalin, who ordered the production of domestic champagne in the southern regions of the country and in Abrau, in particular. And this instruction was contained in the government decree of 1936. As for the production of champagne under the patronage of Golitsyn, its first batch was produced in 1898. And two years later, Abrau had its own powerful winery. A highway was built from Novorossiysk to the village. Now in Abrau there is a museum of famous wines, as well as a company store where tourists, if desired, can buy Russian champagne under the Abrau-Durso brand, dry wines and even cognac. Lots of entertainment on the coast in Durso - water attractions, “bananas”, “pills”, you can rush through the waves on jet skis. And in Abrau, horseback riding along the local foothills is popular, mountain tourism, including jeeping or extreme trips, but on mountain bikes.
Markotkh near Gelendzhik
The distance to the resort, no less famous than Anapa, from Novorossiysk is mere trifles - directly three dozen kilometers, ten kilometers more along the highway. The trip will take about a little over forty minutes. And now you will see the longest embankment in the world - 14 kilometers. With a graceful figure of a bride made of white marble, which is clearly visible from the height of the Markotkh ridge, 762 meters above sea level. Translated from Adyghe, “Markotkh” literally means “berry places,” and here you can pick buckets of really tasty blackberries. It’s prickly, it’s true, but as they say, “you can’t catch a fish out of a pond without difficulty!” There are several high peaks in the vicinity of Gelendzhik - Shakhan near the Zhane River (700 meters above sea level); Pshada - 741 meters near the river of the same name and 43 kilometers long, flowing into the Black Sea; Gebius - 735 meters above sea level. The Markotkhsky ridge itself stretches along the Gelendzhik Bay - charmingly beautiful from a bird's eye view, and even more so from the tops of the surrounding mountains. The resort is famous for its Safari Park, where lions, tigers, bears and other animals live in natural conditions. You can also observe their life from the chairlift. At the top of the Mrkotkhsky ridge there is a fantastic forest - with a goblin, a mermaid on the branches of a tree, Baba Yaga and other fairy-tale characters. Co observation deck Yachts and other vessels in the bay, seagulls, cormorants, petrels, soaring over the blue sea with white wave crests are clearly visible.
And the mountains are getting higher, and the mountains are getting steeper!
And this is indeed true if you drive from Gelendzhik to Bolshoi - the southern capital of Russia, stretching along the Black Sea coast for as much as one hundred and forty-five kilometers. There is only one city in the world longer than the former capital of the past Winter Olympic Games, which our team triumphantly won and which amazed the planet with its colorful opening and closing ceremonies - the capital of Mexico, Mexico City - 200 kilometers. And in its native Fatherland, Sochi is ahead of Volgograd in length, stretching along the great Volga River for more than 90 kilometers. So about the height of the local mountains. Having covered the distance from Gelendzhik to Sochi of 246 kilometers in almost four hours (worth the effort!), you can make the ascent, including as part of excursion groups, to one of the surrounding peaks. You can start small - Mount Akhun - 663 meters above sea level. And then the height of the mountains will increase: Sakharnaya, fifteen kilometers from the city - 1555 meters; Pshegishwa - 2216 meters; Bolshoy Tkach - 2368 meters; Achishkho - 2391 meters; Bzerli peak - 2482 meters; Transshipment South - 2503 meters; Stone pillar - 2509 meters; Pshekho-Su - 2743 meters; Oshten - 2804 meters; Fisht - 2853 meters; Kozhevnikov peak - 3070 meters; Igolchaty Peak - 3168 meters; Sugar Pseashkho - 3189 meters; Atheista - 3256 meters and finally the highest peak of the entire Kuban, Tsakhvoa - 3346 meters above sea level. This is not so little, considering that the highest peak of the Great Caucasus Mountains and even Europe is Elbrus, 5642 meters above sea level.
The famous ski resort "Krasnaya Polyana"
It is located in the middle reaches of the mountain river Mzymta, which in translation from Adyghe means “mad”, uncontrollable”, “indomitable” - there are other interpretations. It flows into the Black Sea. It is 39 kilometers long. Above the gorge above it is the famous pedestrian suspension bridge the longest in the world. From here, extreme sports enthusiasts jump into the abyss on an elastic rope. A popular attraction here is a giant swing with a pendulum swing of half a kilometer. From the west there is Mount Achishkho, from the east there is the Aibga ridge. Right in the vicinity is the Fisht peak, after which the stadium was named, where the opening and closing ceremonies of the Winter Olympic Games took place in 2014. Krasnaya Polyana is a ski resort that may well compete with its counterparts in Switzerland or others mountainous places planets. More than a million compatriots and foreign guests vacation here every year. They have at their disposal more than a hundred kilometers of snow trails of varying difficulty levels - 6 green, 8 blue, 16 red and 6 black. Experienced skiers, beginners and children can feel comfortable on them. Among the independent ski resorts are Rosa Khutor, Alpika-Service, Gorki Gorod and the Gazprom State Tourist Center. Day skiing, evening discos, karaoke, pleasant evenings in cafes, restaurants, casinos. There is enough accommodation for everyone - hotels, inns, guest houses, you can rent a cottage. No problems with transport. Adler is forty kilometers away. You can fly there by direct flights from many regions of Russia. And then railway transport with the famous “Swallows”, or regular buses, even faster with personal cars. The road will not seem tiring to you. Especially with such fantastic natural beauties! By the way, in Krasnaya Polyana there are enough bases with rentals of skis, snowboards, sleds, and so on.
When you come to Sochi for rest and treatment (it receives more than five million tourists a year, not including those who prefer snow slopes, which operate from November to April inclusive, and sometimes even into the beginning of May), be sure to visit the Olympic Park. It is located right next to the Black Sea. With the Fisht stadium and other sports facilities built for the White Olympics. All of them have unique architecture. Ice Palace reminiscent of Beijing Opera - in the form of an icy drop. And the Olympic Flame Cup! She looks like the Firebird from a Russian folk tale. There is a Formula 1 track in the Olympic Park, and the driver competitions leave no one indifferent. Fans come from all parts of the world and are very delighted. The park has its own Disneyland with dozens of attractions. As a souvenir, you can buy souvenirs in local paths, including Games mascots. Just keep in mind that you can’t get around the park in one day. It covers an area of almost two hundred hectares. IN Imereti Lowland. You can’t travel around it in a day even with electric cars: there are so many attractions in it. Natural beauty of Tuapse
Famous resort town located between Gelendzhik and Sochi. From southern capital Russia is 117 kilometers away - less than two hours' drive. From Gelendzhik it is 129 kilometers away, the drive is just over two hours. Protecting the resort from evil northern winds mountains with an average height of 1352 to 1453 meters above sea level. But there are exceptions - the peak of Chessy rose to the sky at 1839 meters. Among the attractions is Mount Semiglavaya, Wolf Gorge, the rock of Alexander Kiselev, jutting into the sea and named after the artist. In the city itself there are subtropical plants. In the foothills and local residents and tourists enjoy picking European blackberries. In the resort area there are sanatoriums, boarding houses, and children's health camps. IN seaport both cargo and passenger ships. You can rent a yacht, go out on the open sea, go fishing, swim in the clearest water or sunbathe on the deck. Tourists love it during sea trips arrange picnics.
Republic of Adygea
It is part of the Southern Federal District with the capital Maykop with a population of half a million. Part of the North Caucasus economic region. Surrounded on all sides Krasnodar region. There are forty-five auls in the republic, there are villages, villages, and hamlets. From the streets of Maykop the Main Caucasus Range is clearly visible. Attractions - the Lago-Naki plateau, popular among tourists. Ten Rufabgo waterfalls - each with its own name. The rivers Kuban, Belaya, Laba. The Belaya River is 260 kilometers long. And it is fed by mountain streams and springs of Fisht, Oshten and Abago. A granite canyon four kilometers long and two hundred meters deep. Sahrai waterfalls. mountain lake Pseudonach. Frequently visited by tourists are the Devil's Finger rock, the Monk, Big Weaver, Trident, Camel mountains, and the Una-Koz ridge. The mountains are quite high; let us remind you that the peak of Fisht rises 2868 meters above sea level. It was her name that was given to the stadium where the opening and closing ceremonies of the Winter Olympic Games took place in 2014, so striking with their colorfulness and originality inherent in the Russian mentality.
Dagestan - a country of mountains
There is a popular saying about this. It is especially often cited in speeches on December 11, when the whole world celebrates International Mountain Day. And the highest of the peaks of the Great Caucasus here is Shalbuzdag - 4150 meters above sea level. In July and August there is a real pilgrimage to it: here is the grave of the righteous Suleiman. The mountain resembles a pyramid with a jagged top. There is a belief that if you climb it, all your wishes and dreams will come true. And thousands of tourists are trying to do this. But the capital of Dagestan, Makhachkala, directly stretches along Mount Tarki-Tau - unique natural monument from a mountain monolith. It is also well known because in 1722 the army of Peter the Great entered Tarki. The peak of the Great Caucasus under the name Bazarduzu is considered the most southern point Russia. She rose to a height of 4466 meters above sea level. The first ascent of it was made in 1935.
We can talk about the mountains of Dagestan for a long time. But it has another unique attraction - just fifteen kilometers from Makhachkala, its capital, the gray Caspian splashes - the largest closed body of water on Earth, the largest closed lake on the planet at the junction of Europe and Asia. Its area is 371 thousand square kilometers. The depth exceeds a kilometer. It is home to more than 140 species of fish, of which the most famous is the beluga, which if you meet, you will be scared: is it a shark?! There are sturgeons that produce black caviar and species such as bream, asp, bleak, river eel, spiked fish, burbot - you can’t list them all! The great Russian river Volga, 3,530 kilometers long, flows into the Caspian Sea (lake), off the banks of which the 300,000-strong Nazi army led by Field Marshal Paulus was captured at Stalingrad. Thousands and thousands of tourists, both our compatriots and foreign ones, come to the Caspian Sea every year to vacation. In particular, near Makhachkala there are sanatoriums, boarding houses, and children's health camps. True, the shores of the Caspian Sea have not yet been very developed, but a course has been taken to create another popular resort area. And what? White fine sand, clear water - sunbathe, swim, catch fish, cook fragrant soup from it on the shore!
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